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I 


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PKOSE  WEITINGS  OF  BAYARD  TAYLOR. 


REVISED  EDITION. 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


it 


NEW  TORK: 

G.  P.  Fiiinam  & Co, 

London:  Sampson  Lo>v.  Son  ii,  v'-o . 


A VISIT 


TO 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN, 


IN  THE  YEAR  1853. 


Bv  BAYARD  TAYLOR. 


NEW  YORK: 

G.  P.  PUTNAM  AND  SON,  661  Broadway, 

Opposite  Bond  Street. 

1867. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1856,  by 
G.  P.  PUTNAM  & CO. 

the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  Soutliern 
District  of  New  York. 


RIVERSIDE,  Cambridge: 
FUNTED  BY  H.  0.  HODQHTON  AND  COMPAICT, 


ItbitaUlr 

TO 

CHARLES  A.  DANA 

BY  HI8 


AjSSOOIATE  and  FROaND. 


PREFACE. 


With  this  volume  ends  the  record  of  two  and  a half 
years  of  travel,  which  was  commenced  in  the  Journey 
to  Central  Africa/'  and  continued  in  the  Lands  of  the 
Saracen."  In  bringing  his  work  to  a close,  the  author 
cannot  avoid  expressing  his  acknowledgment  of  the  pub- 
lic interest  in  those  portions  of  his  narrative  already 
published — an  interest  which  has  justified  him  in  the 
preparation  of  this  volume,  and  encouraged  him  to  hope 
that  he  will  again  be  received  at  the  same  firesides  as  a 
gossip  and  companion,  not  as  a bore. 

Although  the  entire  travels  herewith  presented  em- 
brace India,  China,  Japan,  the  Loo-Choo  and  Bonin 
Islands,  and  the  long  homeward  voyage  around  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope,  they  were  all  accomplished  in  the  space 


vi 


PREFACE. 


of  a year.  Hence,  some  of  my  descriptions  may  bear 
the  marks  of  haste,  and  I may,  occasionally,  have  found- 
ed a judgment  on  the  first  rapid  impressions,  which  a 
greater  familiarity  with  the  subject  might  not  have  con- 
firmed. I can  only  say,  in  answer  to  objections  of  this 
Idnd,  that  I have  conscientiously  endeavored  to  be  cor- 
rect and  impartial,  and  that,  in  preparing  this  work  for 
the  press,  I have  carefully  tested  the  original  impressions 
recorded  on  the  spot,  by  the  truer  images  which  slowly 
ripen  in  the  memory,  and  by  the  light  of  subsequent 
experience. 

The  portions  of  the  book  devoted  to  India  and  China 
are  as  complete  as  the  length  of  my  stay  in  those  coun- 
tries allowed  me  to  make  them.  The  account  of  my 
visit  to  Loo-Choo  and  Japan,  however,  is  less  full  and 
detailed  than  I could  have  wished.  In  accordance  with 
special  regulations  issued  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy, 
I was  obliged  to  give  up  my  journals  to  the  Department, 
at  the  close  of  my  connection  with  the  Expedition.  It 
was  understood  that  they  would  be  retained  and  em- 
ployed in  the  compilation  of  the  Narrative  of  the  Expe- 
dition, now  being  prepared  by  order  of  Congress.  As 
my  accounts  of  the  most  interesting  events  which  I wit- 


PREFACE, 


Vll 


nessed  had  already  been  published,  and  were  therefore 
common  property,  I made  application  to  Government 
for  the  favor  of  being  allowed  to  copy  portions  of  my 
journal — especially  that  part  relating  to  Loo-Choo — 
which  would  have  enabled  me  to  supply  the  links  be- 
tween the  published  accounts  : but  my  request  was  per- 
emptorily denied.  My  papers  will  no  doubt  be  restored 
to  me,  after  the  completion  of  the  Government  work : 
otherwise,  like  J ohn  Ledyard,  in  a precisely  similar  case, 
I shall  have  the  alternative  of  an  unusually  tenacious 
memory. 

During  my  journeys  and  voyages  in  those  remote 
parts  of  the  world,  I was  treated  with  great  kindness 
and  hospitality  by  the  English  and  American  merchants 
and  officials  established  there,  and  received  assistance  in 
the  prosecution  of  my  plans,  which  I take  sincere  plea- 
sure in  acknowledging.  I desire,  especially,  to  return 
my  thanks  to  Commodore  Perry,  to  whose  kindness  I 
was  indebted  for  the  most  interesting  portion  of  my 
experiences  ; to  the  Hon.  Humphrey  Marshall,  late  U.  S. 
Commissioner  to  China  ; to  Capt.  Buchanan,  U.  S.  N. ; 
to  Edward  Cunningham,  Esq.,  U.  S.  Vice-Consul  at 
Shanghai ; to  Henry  G.  Keene,  Esq.,  of  the  E.  I.  Com- 


viii 


PREFACE. 


pany's  Civil  Service,  and  Capt.  K.  Baird  Smith,  of  the 
Bengal  Engineers  ; and  to  the  American  Missionaries  in 
India  and  China,  from  all  of  whom  I received  every 
assistance  in  their  power. 


New  York,  Av^ust^  1855. 


B.  T. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  L 

Leaving  Gibraltar— Voyage  up  the  Mediterranean— Landing  at  Alexandria— Distribu- 
tion of  Passengers— A Cloudy  Day  in  Egypt— A Joyful  Meeting — The  Desert  Vans— 
We  Start  for  Suez — Cockney  Fears — The  Eoad  and  Station-houses — Suez — Transfer  to 
the  India  Steamers — Our  Passengers  and  Crew — The  Mountains  of  Horeb — Red  Sea 
Weather  and  Scenery — A Glimpse  of  Mocha— The  Straits  of  Bab-el-Mandeb — An  Ex- 
tinct Hades— The  Fortress  of  Aden— Arrival— The  Somali— Ride  to  the  Old  Town  — 
Population  of  Aden — Temperature — The  Fortifications- The  Track  of  the  Anglo- 
Saxon — Departure- Disregard  of  Life — Araby  the  Blest — Life  on  the  Achilles — Ap- 
proach to  India— Land !— The  Ghauts  of  Malabar — Arrival  at  Bombay,  . 13 

CHAPTER  II. 

A Foretaste  oi  India — Entering  Bombay  Harbor — I Reach  the  Shore — My  First  Ride 
in  a Palanquin— Mr.  Pallanjee’s  Hotel- Appearance  of  Bombay — Its  Situation — The 
First  Indian  Railroad — English  Hospitality— American  Consuls  and  Residents— The 
Parsees — Sir  Jamsetjee  Jeejeebhoy — His  Family  and  Residence — Parsee  Faith  and 
Ceremonies— Bridal  Processions — A Drive  to  Malabar  Hill — Tropical  Gardens — Tax 
on  Palm-Trees — A Hindoo  Temple— The  Jeejeebhoy  Hospital — Dr.  Bhawoo  Da- 
jee, 84 


CHAPTER  III. 

Hindoo  and  Egyptian  Antiquities— The  Hindoo  Faith- The  Trinity— A Trip  to  Ele- 
phants— Scenery  of  the  Bay — Landing  on  the  Island — Front  View  of  the  Cave- 
Temple — Portuguese  Vandalism — The  Colossal  Trinity — The  Head  of  Brahma— 
Vishnu— Shiva— Remarkable  Individuality  of  the  Heads— The  Guardians  of  the 
Shrine — The  Columns  of  Elephanta— Their  Type  in  Nature — Intrinsic  Dignity  of  all 
Religions — Respect  for  the  Ancient  Faiths— The  Smaller  Chambers  of  the  Temple — 
The  Shrine  of  the  Sterile — Tamarind  Trees— Smaller  Cave-Temples — Return  to 
Bombay  Island— Sunset  in  the  Botanic  Garden , . 4.'5 


X 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  IV 

New -Year  8 Day— A Tropical  Gift — AParsee  Bungalow— Our  Reception— Chewing  the 
Betel-Nut— The  Nautch-Girls— Their  Dances— Supper— Prejudices  of  Caste— The 
Bengalee  Dance — A Gilded  Bridegroom— Piercing  Music— Ship-Building  in  Bom- 
bay— Education  of  the  Natives — Their  Appeals  to  Parliament,  ....  55 

CHAPTER  V. 

Preparations  for  Departure— Warnings — Filial  Gratitude — The  Banghy  Cart — A Night- 
Gallop  through  Bombay — The  Island  Road — Ferry  to  the  Mainland — Despotism  oi 
the  Banghy-Cart — Morning  Scenery — The  Bungalow— Breakfast — The  Sun  as  a Phy- 
sician—An  Army  of  Bullocks— Climbing  the  Ghauts— Natural  Pagodas— The  Sum- 
mit—A Kind  Sergeant— The  Second  Day — Resemblance  to  Mexico— Natives  and 
Villages — The  Menagerie  Man  in  Egypt — An  English  Cantonment — Dhoolia — The 
Lieutenant  and  his  Hospitality— A Rough  Road— Accident— Waiting  in  the  Jungle — 
The  Bullock-Cart— Halt  at  Seerpore, 62 

CHAPTER  VL 

Departure  from  Seerpore — Another  Break-down — A Crippled  Cart — Palasnehr — Indian 
Horses  and  Drivers — Jungle — The  Banyan  Tree— The  Tamarind — The  Natives  of 
the  Jungle— Military  Salutations— The  Town  of  Sind wah— Tokens  of  Decay— The 
Sindwah  Jungles — A Dilemma — The  Vindhya  Mountains — The  Station  of  Mhow— 
Arrival  at  Indore— The  Town— The  Rajah’s  Palace— The  R^ah  and  his  Hlstory- 
His  Tastes— Hindoo  Temples  and  their  Worshippers— The  English  Residency- 
Cold  Weather,  79 


CHAPTER  VII. 

The  Mail-Cart— Setting  out  from  Indore— Night  Travel —Stupidity  of  the  Natives— 
Mussulmen — Nearly  an  Accident — Scenery  of  the  Road — A Polite  Englishman — 
Miseries  of  the  Journey — A Tiger  Party — Budjrungurh — Goonah — A Free  Use  of 
Hospitality— The  Thugs  and  Robbers— Second  Halt— Miss  Burroughs— Going  On— 
The  Plain  of  Hindostan — Approach  to  Agra— A Landmark,  ....  92 

CHAPTER  VIIL 

Akbarabad — The  Modern  City — The  English  Cantonments — Rev.  Mr.  Warren — The 
Fort  of  Agra— The  Jumma  Musjeed— Entering  the  Fort — Judgment-Seat  of  the 
Emperor — The  Gates  of  Somnauth — Akbar’s  Palace — Splendor  of  its  Decorations — 
The  Palace  of  Glass— A Cracked  Throne— The  Pearl  Mosque — Tomb  of  Akbar,  at 
Secundra — An  Indian  Landscape — Saracenic  Art — Mission  Printing-Office — The 
American  Missions— The  Agra  Jail — Dr.  Walker’s  System  of  Education— Arithme- 
tic in  Chorus— Effect  of  the  System, 101 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Excursion  to  Futtehpore-Sikree — The  Road  Thither — Approach  to  the  Ruins- Their 
Extent  and  Grandeur — The  Palace  of  Rajah  Beer-Bul — Perfect  Condition  of  the 
Remains- Shekh  Bushirat-Ali— Age  of  Fnttehpore— The  Emperor’s  Palace- 
Rooms  of  the  Sultana  Mariam — Akbar’s  Tolerance— The  Five  Palaces — The  Pillar 
of  Council— Profusion  of  Ornament— The  Emperor’s  Salutation — The  Elephant  Gate 


CONTENTS. 


XI 


and  Tower — The  Durgah— Shekh  Selim-Chishti — He  glyes  a Son  to  the  Emperor— 
The  Splendor  of  his  Tomb — View  from  the  Gateway — An  Experiment — Tiffin  in 
the  Palace— The  Story  of  the  Rajah  Beer-Bul  and  the  Ruby — ^Last  View  of  Futteh* 
pore-Bikree, l]fi 


CHAPTER  X. 

Oistant  Views  of  the  Taj— Tomb  of  Itmun  e’  Dowlah— The  Garden  of  Rama— Night 
Worship— The  Taj  Mahal— Its  Origin— The  Light  of  the  Harem— Portal  and  Avenue 
to  the  Taj— Its  Form — Its  Inlaid  Marbles  and  Jewel  Work— Tomb  of  Noor-Jehan — 
The  Dome— Resemblance  to  Florentine  Art— Proofs  of  Saracenic  Design — The 
Echo  under  the  Dome— Beauty  of  the  Taj — Saraceidc  Architecture— Plan  of  Shah 
Jehan — Garree  Dawk — Leaving  Agra — Night — ^Allyghur — The  Grand  Ti-unk  Road 
— Distant  View  of  Delhi — Arrival,  . . 130 

CHAPTER  XL 

Delhi — The  Mogul  Empire  at  Present— Ruins  of  former  Delhis — ^The  Observatory — A 
Wilderness  of  Ruin— Tomb  of  Sufdur  Jung— The  Khuttub  Minar— Its  Beauty — View 
from  the  Summit — Uncertainty  of  its  Origin — The  Palace  of  Aladdin — Ruins  of  a 
Hindoo  Temple — Tomb  of  the  Emperor  Humayoon — Of  Nizam-ud-deen — Native 
Sam  Patches — Old  Delhi — Aspect  of  the  Modern  City — The  Chandnee  Choke — Ba- 
yaderes— Delhi  Artisans  and  Artists — The  Jumna  Musjeed — A Hindoo  Minstrel  and 
his  Songs — The  Palace  of  Akbar  II. — Neglect  and  Desolation — The  Diwan — An 
Elysium  on  Earth — The  Throne  Hall — The  Crystal  Throne — The  Court  of  Akbar  II. 
— A Farce  of  Empire — The  Gardens — Voices  of  the  Sultanas — Palace  Pastimes,  148 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Departure  for  the  Himalayas — “Laying  a Dawk” — Last  View  of  Delhi — A Rainy 
Night — Quarters  at  Meerut— The  Dawk  Agent — Hindoo  Punctuality — Meerut — 
Palanquin  Travelling — ^Tricks  of  the  Bearers — Arrival  at  Roorkhee — Adventures  in 
Search  of  a Breakfast — ^First  View  of  the  Himalayas — A Welcome  Invitation — Roor- 
khee— The  Ganges  Canal — Its  Cost  and  Dimensions — Method  of  Irrigation — The 
Government  and  the  People — Aqueduct  over  the  Selanee  River — Apathy  of  the 
Natives,  160 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Native  Workmen  at  Roorkhee — ^Their  Wages — Departure  for  Hurdwar — Afternoon 
View  of  the  Himalayas — Peaks  visible  from  Roorkhee — Jungle-grass — Jowalapore 
— Approach  to  the  Siwalik  Hills — First  View  of  the  Ganges — Ganges  Canal — Pre- 
diction of  the  Brahmins — An  Arrival — The  Holy  City  of  Hurdwar — Its  Annual 
Fair — Appearance  of  the  Streets — The  Bazaar — A Himalayan  Landscape — ^Travel  in 
the  Jungle — A Conflagration— The  Jungle  by  Torch-Light— Arrival  at  Dehra,  171 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Reception  by  Mr.  Keene — We  start  for  the  Himalayas — The  Dehra-Dhoon — Morning 
View  of  the  Sub-Himalayas — Leopards — Rajpore — Wilson,  the  “Ranger  of  the 
Himalayas” — Climbing  the  Mountain — Change  of  Seasons — The  Summit  of  the 
Ridge — Village  of  Landowr— Snow-Drifts— The  Pole  and  the  Equator— Rev,  Mr 


Xll 


CONTENTS. 


Woodside — Mast-Head  of  the  Sub-Himalayas — View  of  the  Snowy  Peaks — Grand 
Asiatic  Tradition — Peculiar  Structure  of  the  Himalayan  Kanges — Scenery  of  the 
Main  Chain — The  Paharrees — Polyandry — ^The  Peaks  at  Sunset — The  Plain  of 
Hindostan— A Cloudy  Deluge, 182 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Return  to  Denra — The  Dhoon — System  of  Taxation — The  Tea-Culture  in  India — ^Tea- 
Garden  at  Kaologir — Progress  by  Force — Ride  to  the  Robber’s  Cave — A Sikh  Tem- 
ple— A Sunny  Picture — Sikh  Minstrelsy — Raj&h  Loll  Singh — ^English  Masters  and 
Native  Servants — Preparations  for  Departure, 198 

CHAPTER  XVL 

Bide  to  Shahpore — The  Rajah’s  Elephant — The  Pass  of  the  Siwalik  Hills— I Resume 
the  Palanquin — ^The  Large  Punch-House — Saharunpore — The  American  Mission — 
The  Botanic  Garden — A Dreary  Journey — Travellers — Salutations — ^Return  to 
Meerut— A Theft — Journey  over  the  Plains — Scenery  of  the  Road — The  Pollution 
of  Touch — Fractious  Horses— Arrival  at  Cawnpore — Capt  Riddell — ^The  English 
Cantonments, 208 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Crossing  the  Ganges— Night-Journey  to  Lucknow — Arrival — A Mysterious  Visitor— A 
Morning  Stroll — The  Goomtee  River — An  Oriental  Picture — The  Crowds  of  Luck- 
now— Col.  Sleeman,  the  Resident — Drive  through  the  City — The  Constantinople 
Gate — Architectural  Effects — The  Imambarra — Gardens  and  Statues — Singular  Dec- 
orations of  the  Tomb— The  Chandeliers — Speculation  in  Oude — Hospital  and  Mosque 
— ^The  King’s  New  Palace — The  Martiniere — Royalty  Plundered — The  Dog  and  the 
Rose-Water — Destruction  of  the  King’s  Sons — The  Explosion  of  a Fiend — Misrule 
In  Oude — Wealth  of  Lucknow — A Ride  on  a Royal  Elephant — The  Queen-Dowa- 
ger’s Mosque — Navigating  the  Streets — ^A  Squeeze  of  Elephants — The  Place  of  Exe- 
cution— The  Choke — Splendor  and  Corruption, 214 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Return  to  Cawnpore — An  Accident — The  Road  to  Allahabad — Sensible  Pilgrims — 
Morning — Beauty  of  Allahabad — The  American  Missionaries — The  Hindoo  Festival 
— The  Banks  of  the  Ganges — Hindoo  Devotees — Expounding  the  Vedas — The  Place 
of  Hair — A Pilgrim  Shorn  and  Fleeced — ^The  Place  of  Flags — Venality  of  the  Brah- 
mins—Story  of  the  Contract  for  Grass — Junction  of  the  Ganges  and  Jumna— Bathing 
of  the  Pilgrims — A Sermon — The  Mtesion — Subterranean  Temple — The  Fort  of 
Allahabad, 229 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Crossing  the  Ganges — Pilgrims  Returning  Home — Vagaries  of  me  Horses — Benares — 
Prof.  Hall — The  Holy  City — Its  Sanctity — The  Sanscrit  College — Novel  Plan  ol 
Education — Village  of  Native  Christians — ^The  Streets  of  Benares — Sacred  Bulls — 
Their  Sagacity  and  Cunning— The  Golden  Pagodar-Hindoo  Architecture — Worship 
of  the  Lingam — Temple  of  the  Indian  Ceres — The  Banks  of  the  Ganges — Bathing 
Devotees — Preparations  for  Departure, 289 


CONTENTS. 


xiii 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Moonlight  on  the  Ganges— The  Unholy  River— Scenery  of  the  Plains— Egyptian 
Landscapes — Sasseram — Mountains  near  the  Soane  River — View  of  the  Ford- 
Crossing — The  Second  Day’s  Journey — The  Hills  of  Behar — ^Meeting  with  an  Ac- 
quaintance— Wild  Table-Land — Sunset — A Coolie  Trick— The  Aborigines  of  India— 
Triumph  of  the  Red-haired  Lady — Horse  Gymnastics — ^The  Lady  Defeated — Mun- 
glepore — An  Eccentric  Night-Journey — ^The  City  of  Burdwau — Tropical  Scenery — 
Wrecked  on  the  Road — A Wrathful  Delay — Wrecked  again — Journey  by  Moonlight 
— Another  Wreck — An  Insane  Horse — The  Hoogly  River — Yet  Another  Accident— 
A Morning  Parade — The  End  of  “ Garree-Dawk,” 250 

CHAPTER  XXL 

Impressions  of  Calcutta — The  Houses  of  the  Residents — Public  Buildings  and  Institu- 
tions— Colleges — Young  Bengal — Museum  of  the  Asiatic  Society — ^The  Botanic 
Garden — Calcutta  at  Sunset — Scene  on  the  Esplanade — English  Rule  in  India — Its 
Results — Its  Disadvantages — Relation  of  the  Government  to  the  Population — ^Ten- 
ure of  Land— Taxes — The  Sepoys — Revenue  of  India — Public  Works — Moral  Chan- 
ges— Social  Prejudices, ....  262 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

Departure  from  Calcutta — Descending  the  Hoogly  River — An  Accident — Kedgeree — 
The  Songs  of  the  Lascars — Saugor  Island — ^The  Sandheads — ^The  Bay  of  Bengal- 
Fellow- Passengers — The  Peak  of  Narcondan — The  Andaman  Islands — Approach  to 
Penang— A Malay  Garree — Beauty  of  the  Island— Tropical  Forests — A Vale  of  Par- 
adise— The  Summit — A Panorama — ^Nutmeg  Orchards — The  Extremity  of  Asia — 
The  Malayan  Archipelago — Singapore — Chinese  Population — Scenery  of  the  Island 
—The  China  Sea— Arrival  at  Hong-Kong, 275 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Trip  to  Macao— Attached  to  the  U.  S.  Embassy — On  Board  the  Steam-Frigate  Susque- 
hanna— Departure  from  Macao — The  Coast  of  China-  The  Shipwrecked  Japanese — 
Their  Address  to  the  Commissioner — The  Eastern  Sea— The  Archipelago  of  Chusan 
—The  Mouth  of  the  Yang-tse-Kiang— The  Steamer  Aground — Rumors  of  the  Reb- 
els— Arrival  at  Woosung — Entering  the  Woosung  River — Chinese  Junks — Appear- 
ance of  the  Country — Approach  to  Shanghai— Arrival, 287 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

The  Commissioner  decides  to  visit  Nanking— Preparations  for  the  Voyage— Departure 
of  four  Japanese — The  Susquehanna  leaves — Woosung— Bush  Island  and  Tsung- 
Ming- We  strike  the  Blonde  Shoal— The  Chinese  Pilots— Escape  of  a Boat — Off  the 
Shoal — Mr.  Bennett’s  night  cruise  after  the  Boats — Unfavorable  Reports— The  Re- 
turn— End  of  the  Expedition — Successful  Trip  of  the  Susquehanna  in  the  Bummer 
of  1864, 297 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Life  in  Shanghai — The  Rebels  Expected — My  Journal — The  Fall  of  Nanking — ^The 
Grain  Trade— Soo-Chow  Threatened— Barbarities  at  Nanking — Rumors  Concern- 


XIV 


CONTENTS. 


Ing  the  Rebels— Capture  of  iiOrch as— Threats  towards  Foreignejs— Alarm  of  the 
Taou-tai — A Rebel  Proclamation — Imperial  Rewards  and  Pardons — Col.  Marshall's 
Proclamation — Nanking  Besieged  by  the  Imperial  Army — Flight  from  Shanghai  — 
Sir  George  Bonham — Meetings  of  the  Foreign  Residents — Ransom  for  Shanghai— 
Soo-Chownot  Taken — Uncertainty — Mr.  Meadows  at  Soo-Chow — Defensive  Works 
Commenced — Trouble  with  the  Men  of  Foo-K'ien — Marauders  in  the  Country- 
Burning  of  Thieves — The  Foo-Eaen  Grave-yard — Desertion  of  the  City — A Ru- 
mored Battle— Death  of  T'ien-teh — Mr.  Meadows — Various  Rumors — Return  of  the 
Science — Destruction  of  Chin -kiang-foo — The  Excitement  Subsides,  . . 806 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Chinese  and  Foreigners  at  Shanghai — Situation  of  the  City — A Chinese  Promenade— 
Burying-Grounds- Money  for  the  Dead — A Baby  Tower— The  Ningpo  House- 
Coffins — Chinese  Gypsies — A Street  of  the  Suburbs — The  City  Gate — A Chinese 
Pawnbroker’s  Shop — A Temple — The  Statue  of  Boodh — A Priest  at  his  Devotions 
— Stenches  of  the  Streets — Beggars — Shops — View  of  the  Tea-Garden — Chinese 
Gamblers — An  Artistic  Mountebank — The  Baptist  Chapel— Scene  from  its  Tower — 
The  Hills — Fanciful  Signs — Missionary  Labors  in  China— Apathy  of  the  People— A 
Chinese  Residence — The  Library — The  City  Prison— Torture  of  the  Prisoners — A 
Bath  House— Character  of  the  Mongol  Form — The  Tutelar  Deity  of  Shanghai — 
Boodh  at  Sunset — Kite  Flying, 821 

CHAPTER  XXVIL 

An  Earthquake— Sensations  it  Producea— Its  Effects — Additional  Shocks — The  Bowl- 
ing Alley — Hairs  in  the  Soil — A Shower  of  Sand — Visit  of  the  Taou-tai  to  Col. 
Marshall — Chinese  Visiting  Cards — The  Taou-tai’s  Appearance — Reception  of  the 
Dignitaries — A Chinese  Military  Review — The  Soldiers  and  their  Equipments— 
Their  Discipline — Uncouth  Weapons — Absurdity  of  the  Parade — ^The  Commissioner 
visits  the  Taou-tai — Reception — ^The  Taou-tai’s  Residence — Chinese  Refreshments — 
Departure, 889 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

Spring  at  Shanghai — Appearance  of  the  Country — Crops — National  Conveyance  of 
China— Houses  of  the  Lower  Classes— Sail  on  the  River- The  Pagoda— Village 
Market— Sweetmeats  and  Children — Showers  of  Cash— Chinese  Horticultural  Exhi- 
bition— ^The  Lan-whei — Chinese  Love  of  Monstrosity — Moral  Depravity  of  the  Race 
— Landscape  Gardening— A Soldier  and  his  Drill— The  Cangue — Visit  of  the  Hermes 
to  Nanking— The  Rebels— Their  Christianity— Condition  of  the  City— Arrival  of  the 
U.  S.  Steam-Frigate  Mississippi — Commodore  Perry — Cob  Marshall’s  Chinese 
Dinner — Mr.  Robert  Fortune, 849 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

State  of  Things  at  Shanghai— The  Sloop-of-War  Plymouth— Preparations  for  Depart- 
ure— ^Entering  the  Naval  Service — Its  Regulations — Procuring  a Uniform — The 
Master’s-Mates — Establishing  a Mess — Departure  for  Japan — A Gale — Shipwrecks— 
Standing  out  to  Sea — Arrival  at  the  Great  Loo-Choo  Island — K Missionary — Beauty 
of  the  Harbor  of  Napa— The  Native  Authorities— Going  Ashore— Jumping  over  a 
Coral  Reef-  -Landing — ^The  Town  of  Napa-Kiang — Spies — ^Dr.  Bettelhelm’s  Resi- 
dence,   860 


CONTENTS, 


XV 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

Visit  of  the  Regent — The  Island  of  Loo-Choo — An  Exploration  of  the  Inter  or — Setting 
Out — Entry  into  the  Capital — Reception — The  Old  Mandai  in  in  for  a Journey — Ilia 
Resignation — Programme  of  the  Exploring  Trip — Espionage  in  Loo-Cboo — En- 
deavors to  Escape  it — Taking  Families  by  Surprise — The  Landscapes  of  Loo-Choo— 
The  Cung-quds — Watches  and  Counter- W'atches — Commodore  Perry’s  Visit  to 
Shui — Disembarkation — The  Order  of  March — Curiosity  of  the  Natives — March  to 
the  Capital — Reception  at  the  Gate — A Deception  Prevented — The  Viceroy’s  Castle 
— The  Inner  Courts — The  Commodore's  Reception — A Tableau — Salutations  and 
Ceremonies — Visit  to  the  Regent's  House — A State  Banquet  in  Loo-Choo — Edibles 
and  Beverages — Extent  of  the  Dinner — ^Toasts — The  Interpreter,  IchirazicM — De- 
parture— Riding  a Loo-Choo  Pony — Return  to  the  Squadron,  . . . , 870 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 

Departure — The  Bonin,  or  Arzoblspo  Isles— Death  of  a Chinese  Opium  Smoker— A 
Peruvian  Bark — Approach  to  the  Bonin  Islands— Pilots — Entering  Port  Lloyd — Go- 
ing Ashore — A Settler’s  Hut— Society  on  the  Island — Mode  of  Life — An  Old  Inhab- 
itant and  his  Mate— Productions  of  the  Island— A Coaling  Station  for  Steamers— 
Buckland  Island — A Basaltic  Cavern — English  Claims  to  the  Islands,  . 889 

CHAPTER  XXXIL 

Exploring  Parties  Appointed— My  Part- Setting  Out — Climbing  the  Hills — The  Soil 
and  PrcKluctions — Land-Crabs — Crossing  a Ridge — A Tropical  Ravine — Signs  ol 
Habitation— A Marquesan  and  his  Household — South-Sea  Pilots— The  Valley — The 
Forest  Again— Trees— Shooting  a Wild  Boar— The  Southern  Coast— A Precipice- 
Dangerous  Climbing — A Frightful  Ravine — Descending  the  Precipices — South-East 
Bay — The  Nom-Camp — Ascent  of  the  Ravine — ^The  Party  beginning  to  Fag— The 
Valley  Again — A Slippery  Ascent — A Man  Lost — Firing  Signals — Return  to  the 
Vessel, . . 398 


CHAPTER  XXXIIL 

Return  to  Loo-Choo — Malls — Departure  for  Japan — The  Island  of  Ohosima— Tbe 
Japanese  Coast — The  Headland  of  Idzu— Precautionary  Measures— Cape  Sagami— 
The  Bay  of  Yedo— Approach  to  Uraga— A Hint— The  Squadron  Halts-Japanese 
Boats — A Talk  at  the  Gangway — The  Vice  Governor  of  Uraga — His  Reception— 
The  Boats  Repulsed — Japanese  Boatmen — Watch-fires — Yezaimon,  Governor  of 
Uraga — Consultations — An  Express  to  Yedo — Tbe  Emperor  appoints  a Commissioner 
— Permission  to  Land — Skilful  Negotiations — Scenery  of  the  Bay — The  Fortifica- 
tions— The  Peak  of  Fnsl-Yamma— Canvas  Defences— A Surveying  Party — Sounding 
along  Shore — Forts  and  Soldiers — Threatened  Collision — A Second  Survey — A Mi- 
rage— Warlike  Appearances — Lieut.  Bent’s  Encounter  with  Forty -five  Japanese 
Boats— Result  of  the  Survey, 410 

CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

fhe  Day  of  Landing— Preparations  on  Shore — The  Bight  of  Gori-bama— Japanese 
Military  Display — Arrival  of  the  Governors — ^Their  Official  Dresses — Precautions 
on  Board — ^The  Procession  of  Boats — An  Insniring  Scene— The  Landing — Numbers 


XVI 


CONTENTS. 


of  the  Escort— The  Japanese  Troops— The  Commodore’s  Landing— March  to  the 
House  of  Reception — Japanese  Body-Guard — The  Hall  of  Audience— Two  Japanese 
Princes — Delivery  of  the  President's  Letter — An  Official  Conversation— Return  to 
the  Squadron,  . . ^ 424 

CHAPTER  XXXV. 

The  Japanese  Officers  on  Board— Their  Manners — Their  Dislike  to  the  Chinese — ^Theii 
Swords — Their  Curiosity — Passing  up  the  Bay — Beauty  of  the  Scenery — “ Perry's 
Bay” — Junks  bound  for  Yedo — Another  Visit— Further  Surveys— The  Natives- 
An  Excursion  towards  Yedo — Extent  and  Capacity  of  the  Upper  Bay— Change  of 
Anchorage — The  Surveys'  Proceed — Interchange  of  Presents — A Dilemma — Final 
Satisfaction — Farewell  of  the  Japanese  Officials — Commodore  Perry’s  Diplomacy — 
Departure  from  Japan — A Multitude  of  Boats — Oosima — The  Islands  off  the  Bay — 
Discoveries— Formation  of  the  Group — We  Sail  for  Ohosima— A Typhoon — Return 
to  Loo-Choo— The  Second  Visit  to  Japan,  ....  ...  433 

CHAPTER  XXXVL  . 

Negotiations  with  the  New  Regent — Capt  Hall's  Account  of  Loo-Choo— Napoleon’s 
Incredulity — Its  Correctness — Verification  of  the  Japanese  Chronicle — The  Three 
Castles — The  Government  of  Loo-Choo — Provisions  for  the  Squadron- Duplicity 
of  the  Officials — The  Markets  Deserted — The  Spies — The  Telegraph  and  Daguerre- 
otype in  Loo-Choo — Demands  of  Commodore  Perry— The  Regent’s  Reply — The 
Commodore  successful — A Scene  in  the  Market-place — Chase  and  Capture  of  a Spy 
— The  Coal  Depot — Exhibition  of  Loo-Choo  Industry — National  Contrasts — Steam- 
ship Line  across  the  Pacific, 445 

CHAPTER  XXXVIL 

Return  to  Hong  Kong— End  of  the  Cruise — Experience  of  Naval  Life — My  Duties  on 
Board — “General  Quarters” — Our  Crew — Decline  of  Naval  Discipline — False  Sys 
tern  of  Promotion — Delays — What  is  Needed — Harmony  of  Government  at  Sea — 
The  Abolition  of  Corporeal  Punishment — Want  of  an  Efficient  Substitute — Govern- 
ment on  Sea  and  Land — Mr.  Kennedy’s  Proposal  for  Registered  Seamen — Effect  of 
Long  Cruises — Need  of  Small  Vessels  in  Chinese  Waters,  ....  466 

CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

Impressions  of  Hong-Kong — A Man  Drowsed  at  Midnight — Hong-Kong  from  the 
Water — The  town  of  Victoria — The  Island  of  Hong-Kong — The  Hong-Kong  Fever — 
Hospitality  of  Foreign  Residents  in  China — Their  Princely  Style  of  Living — Rigid 
Social  Etiquette — Balls— Tropical  Privileges — The  Anglo-Saxon  Abroad,  . 466 

CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

Movements  of  the  Squadron — Cumsingmoon — The  Naval  Hospital  at  Macao — Quiet 
Life — A Chinese  Beggar — ^The  Band — The  Memories  of  Macao — Situation  of  the 
Town — Its  Appearance — Desertion  of  the  Place — Its  Tropical  Gardens — The  Cam- 
po — ^The  Temple  of  Wang  Ilya — Anecdote  of  Cushing — Society  in  Macao — Chinese 
All-Souls’  Day — Discordant  Noises — The  Grotto  of  CamoSns— The  Casa  Gardens— 
The  Grotto  at  Daybreak- -French  Irreverence — Preparations  to  Return  Home- 
Leaving  the  Naval  Servio— Trips  to  Hong-Kong  and  Cumsingmoon^  . . 4T4 


CONTENTS. 


XVll 


CHAPTER  XL. 

Increase  of  the  Squadron — Disposition  of  the  Vessels — Passage  to  Canton — First  View 
of  the  City — ^The  Foreign  Factories — Old  and  New  China  Streets — Talking  “ Pi- 
geon English  ” — The  Great  Temple  of  Honan — Ceremonies  of  the  Priests— Sacred 
Books  and  Pigs— The  Lotus  Blossom — Dwellings  of  the  Priests — A Retired  Ab- 
bot— Opium  Smoking  in  China — The  Opium-Pipe — Flavor  and  Fascination  of  the 
Drug— Its  Effects— A Walk  around  Canton— The  Walls— Entering  the  City— For- 
eign Devils— A Tea-House — Beyond  the  Suburbs — A Chinese  Panorama— The 
Feast  of  Lanterns— Dr.  Parker's  Hospital— The  Eve  of  Departure,  . . 486 

CHAPTER  XLL 

Farewell  to  China — Whampoa — A Musical  Good-Bye — The  Boguo  Forts — The  Last 
Link— The  China  Sea— Life  on  the  Sea-Serpent— The  Straits  of  Mindoro— Pictu- 
resque  Islands— Calm  Sailing— Moonlight  in  the  Tropics — “ Summer  Isles  of  Eden  * 
— ^The  Sooloo  Sea — The  Cagayanes  Islands — Straits  of  Basilan — Mindanao — A Na- 
tive Proa— The  Sea  of  Celebes — Entering  the  Straits  of  Macassar — Crossing  the 
Equator — Off  Celebes— Lazy  Life — The  Java  Sea— Passing  the  Thousand  Islands— 
Approach  to  the  Straits  of  Sunda, 50f 

CHAPTER  XLII. 

Entering  the  Straits  of  Sunda — ^Malay  Boats — The  Mangosteen — Bargaining  with  the 
Natives — Scenery  of  the  Straits — Angier — Passing  the  Straits — Death  on  Board— 
The  Indian  Ocean— A Submarine  Earthquake — A Tropical  Sunset — A Fatal  Escape 
—The  Trade  Wind— Mozambique  Channel— The  Coast  of  Africa— Doubling  the 
Cape— Southern  Constellations— Distant  View  of  Tal»le  Mountain— On  the  Atlantic 
—The  Trades  again— Restoration— A Slaver, 611 

CHAPTER  XLIII. 

Proposed  Call  at  St  Helena — First  View  of  the  Island — Its  Cliffs — Approach  to  James- 
town— View  from  the  Anchorage — Landing — ^The  Town  and  Ravine — Ascending 
the  Gorge — Looking  Down — “ The  Briars” — Summit  of  the  Island — Pastoral  Land- 
scape— Sea-View — Approach  to  Locgwood — Reception— The  Billiard-Room — Scene 
of  Napoleon’s  Death— His  Bedroom— Desecration  of  Longwood — The  New  Resi- 
dence—The  Longwood  Farm— The  “Crown  and  Rose”— National  Peculiarities — 
The  Grave  of  Napoleon — The  Old  Woman’s  Welcome — Condition  of  the  Grave — 
St  Helena  Literature — The  Old  Woman’s  Admirable  Story — Napoleon’s  Spring- 
Return  to  Jamestown— Departure  from  the  Island, 520 

CHAPTER  XLIV. 

Trade  Weather— Phosphorescence  of  the  Sea — Ocean  Nymphs — Butterflies  in  Mid- 
Ocean — The  No'>‘th-East  Trades — A Gale  off  the  Bermudas — Nautical  Alms-Giving 
—The  Gulf  Stream— Escape  from  Cape  Hatteras— Fair  Wind— Winter  Weather— 
The  Last  Day  <)1  the  V oyage— Landing  in  New  York— Retrospect,  . 584 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE  OVERLAND  ROUTE  TO  INDIA. 

Leaving  Gibraltar — Voyage  up  the  Mediterranean — Landing  at  Alexandria — Distribu- 
tion of  Passengers — A Cloudy  Day  in  Egypt — A Joyful  Meeting — The  Desert  Vans — 
We  start  for  Suez — Cockney  Fears — The  Road  and  Station-houses — Suez — Transfer  to 
the  India  Steamers — Our  Passengers  and  Crew — The  Mountains  of  Horeb — Red  Sea 
Weather  and  Scenery — A Glimpse  of  Mocha — The  Straits  of  Bab-el-Mandeb — An 
Extinct  Hades — The  Fortress  of  Aden — Arrival — The  Somali — Ride  to  the  Old  Town 
— Population  of  Aden — Temperature — The  Fortifications — The  Track  of  the  Anglo- 
Saxon — ^Departure — Disregard  of  Life— Araby  the  Blest — Life  on  the  Achilles — Ap- 
proach to  India — Land! — The  Ghauts  of  Malabar — Arrival  at  Bombay. 


My  passage  to  Bombay  had  been  secured  a month  before ; 
the  ticket  was  in  my  pocket ; the  horses  I had  ridden  from 
Granada  had  gone  back  under  charge  of  Jose,  my  merry 
guide  and  groom  ; and  finally,  on  the  27th  of  November, 
1852,  the  mail  steamer  from  Southampton  to  Alexandria,  two 
days  overdue,  was  signalled  from  the  top  of  Gibraltar  Rock. 
There  was  no  tie  to  bind  me  to  Europe  : my  travelling  trunk 
was  already  packed,  my  bill  paid,  and  the  needful  stock  of 
Gibraltar  cigars  laid  in.  My  face  was  turned  eastward  once 


14 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


more,  but  I looked  beyond  the  Orient,  to  those  elder  lands  of 
India  and  Cathay,  where  the  sun  of  Egypt  and  of  Greece 
first  rose.  Long  before  the  outward-bound  passengers  had 
finished  their  rambles  in  the  Alameda,  I went  out  the  water- 
gate  of  the  town,  and  the  sunset-gun  found  me  impatiently 
pacing  the  deck  of  the  Haddington. 

Our  voyage  up  the  Mediterranean  was  a dreary  one,  and 
without  any  incident  worthy  of  being  recorded.  There  were 
a hundred  and  seventy  passengers  on  board,  and  the  cabins 
fore  and  aft  were  stowed  as  closely  as  the  steerage  of  an  emi- 
grant ship.  The,  raw,  gusty  weather  we  encountered,  made 
our  quarters  doubly  disagreeable,  while,  owing  to  the  comforta- 
ble indifference  of  the  officers,  nothing  was  done  to  alleviate  the 
annoyance.  In  fact,  it  required  symptoms  of  incipient  ship- 
fever,  and  the  strong  protest  of  a few  resolute  passengers,  to 
procure  for  us  the  simple  relief  of  a wind-sail  in  the  cabin. 
The  fare  resembled  that  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamers,  during 
the  first  year  of  their  establishment ; and  the  price  of  passage 
was  in  about  the  same  ratio.  The  Peninsular  and  Oriental 
Company,  like  all  great  monopolies,  is  a model  of  meanness. 

We  ran  along,  under  the  lee  of  the  Spanish  Mountains,  to 
Cape  de  Gatte,  then  crossed  to  the  Barbary  Coast,  which  we 
skirted  to  Cape  Bon,  catching  now  and  then  a rainy  glimpse 
of  the  distant  Atlas,  touched  at  Malta,  and  after  a voyage  of 
eleven  days — time  enough  to  have  crossed  the  Atlantic — took 
a pilot  off  Alexandria,  at  daybreak  on  the  8th  of  December. 
I looked  upon  the  crowd  of  windmills  on  the  Cape  of  Figs, 
the  light-house  on  the  island  of  Pharos,  and  Pompey’s  Pillar 
m the  distance,  with  almost  the  feeling  of  one  returning  to 
his  native  land.  A clear,  balmy  Egyptian  morning  welcomed 


DISTRIBUTION  OF  PASSENGERS. 


15 


US  after  the  gales  of  the  Mediterranean,  and  the  anchor  had 
not  been  dropped  five  minutes  before  the  passengers  began  to 
make  for  the  shore.  We  left  our  baggage  in  a heap  upon  the 
deck,  with  the  assurance  that  we  should  find  it  again,  on  arriv- 
ing at  Suez.  The  Egyptian  Transit  Company  has  published 
very  strict  regulations,  limiting  the  length,  breadth,  and  depth 
of  trunks  and  portmanteaus  to  be  conveyed  across.  I scrupu- 
lously arranged  my  baggage  according  to  these  rules,  but 
found,  on  reaching  Alexandria,  that  nobody  else  had  done  so, 
and  that  packages  of  treble  the  prescribed  dimensions  were 
accepted  and  forwarded  without  objection.  Only  two  cwt. 
are  allowed  free,  extra  baggage  to  India  being  charged  at  the 
rate  of  £60  ($300)  per  ton.  Several  of  my  fellow-passengers 
paid  from  £10  to  £20  for  over-weight. 

The  day  before  our  arrival,  a meeting  of  the  passengers 
was  held,  in  order  to  decide  by  lot  their  respective  places  in 
the  omnibus  vans  from  Cairo  to  Suez.  As  each  van  held  six 
persons,  and  there  were  enough  of  us  to  fill  twent}''-eight  vans, 
we  formed  ourselves  into  as  many  parties  of  six  each,  appoint- 
ing one  of  the  number  to  draw.  Those  parties,  for  instance, 
who  drew  the  numbers  from  one  to  ten,  were  sent  off  in  the 
first  steamer  from  Alexandria,  and  the  first  batch  of  vans 
from  Cairo,  and  were  obliged  to  wait  in  Suez  for  the  more 
fortunate  drawers  of  the  last  numbers,  who  thus  gained  a lit- 
tle time  in  the  former  cities.  As  my  party  had  drawn  one 
of  the  last  vans,  we  had  the  whole  day  in  Alexandria,  which 
enabled  us  to  get  our  letters  and  papers  from  home,  refresh 
ourselves  with  a Turkish  bath,  and  lay  in  a stock  of  choice 
Latakieh  for  the  Indian  part  of  the  voyage.  The  hotels  were 
filled  to  overflowing,  more  than  a hundred  passengers  from 


16 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


• 

India  having  been  waiting  six  days  for  our  arrival.  We 
barely  succeeded  in  finding  seats  at  Key’s  Hotel  d’Europe 
The  arched  entrance  resembled  a bazaar ; venders  of  tobacco, 
whips,  tarbooshes,  pipes,  shawls,  &c.,  thronged  on  all  sides, 
and  the  clamor  of  the  dcmkey-boys  was  something  terrible  to 
the  uninitiated.  I found  a number  of  acquaintances  among 
the  motley  multitude,  most  of  whom  not  only  remembered 
my  face,  but  my  name  also,  hailing  me  with : “ Thanks  be  to 
God,  0 Howadji  T ! you  are  welcome  back ! ” 

At  the  appointed  hour,  we  went  on  board  the  barge,  in  the 
Mahmoudieh  Canal,  and  were  towed  off  by  a small  steamer. 
In  the  sweet,  mild  air  of  the  evening,  we  sat  on  deck,  watch- 
ing the  palm-trees  by  starlight,  till  it  grew  chilly  and  damp 
with  the  heavy  night-dews.  We  then  went  below,  and  spread 
ourselves  out  on  some  bare  tables  and  benches,  until  2 A.  M., 
when  we  reached  Atfeh.  Here  a better  steamer  was  waiting 
for  us.  The  transfer  was  soon  made,  and  in  another  hour  wo 
were  breasting  the  current  of  the  glorious  old  Nile — the 
river  of  rivers.  The  morning  was  cold  and  gray,  and  we  had 
a dark,  rainy,  disagreeable  day.  I had  never  known  such 
weather  in  Egypt.  In  fact,  until  an  hour  before  sunset,  when 
the  clouds  broke  away,  it  was  neither  Egypt  nor  the  Nile. 
The  leaves  of  the  palm-trees  were  all  blown  one  way,  the  Fel- 
lahs lay  in  their  huts  for  shelter,  scarcely  a boat  was  to  be 
seen  on  the  river,  the  camels  and  Bedouins  vanished  from  the 
horizon  of  the  Libyan  Desert,  and  the  dull,  brown,  opaque 
flood  lost  all  of  the  mystery  and  solemnity  of  its  character. 

It  was  after  dark  before  we  reached  the  Barrage,  at  the  point 
of  the  Delta.  Our  Arab  firemen  heaved  the  wood  into  their 
furnaces,  until  the  chimney  was  red-hot,  and  a great  mass  of 


A JOYFUL  MEETLNG. 


17 


scarlet  flame,  pouring  out  of  the  top,  flapped  and  snapped  in 
the  wind  like  a Moslem  banner.  On  we  went,  throwing  aside 
the  turbid  waves,  past  the  glimmering  lights  of  Shoobra  and 
the  dim  minarets  of  Boulak,  till  the  ruddy  glare  of  torches 
on  the  Transit  Wharf  announced  the  end  of  our  voyage. 
Here,  the  passengers  were  obliged  to  give  up  their  carpet- 
bags, as  no  baggage  is  allowed  in  the  Desert  vans.  This  mat- 
ter settled,  we  got  into  the  omnibus,  drove  up  the  broad 
avenue  of  acacias,  and  into  the  great  square  of  Cairo. 

I went  with  my  friends  to  the  Hotel  d’Europe,  and  found 
my  old  landlord.  Monsieur  Nolt^  as  fat  and  obliging  as  ever. 
To  my  great  joy,  my  faithful  dragoman,  and  companion  on 
the  White  Nile,  Achmet,  was  in  Cairo,  and  as  I was  obliged 
to  leave  early  the  next  morning  for  Suez,  I sent  for  him  im- 
mediately. Nothing  could  exceed  the  surprise  and  joy  of  the 
honest  Theban.  We  had  abundance  of  news  for  each  other, 
and  old  experiences  to  talk  over,  and  did  not  separate  until 
long  after  midnight.  Some  of  my  party,  by  rising  early,  rode 
up  to  the  Citadel  by  sunrise ; but  I contented  myself  with  a 
donkey-ride  through  the  Ezbekiyeh,  accompanied  by  Achmet 
and  the  little  shaytan  of  a donkey-boy  who  served  me  a year 
before.  I would  have  given  more  than  I am  willing  to  confess, 
for  the  sake  of  staying  a month  in  Egypt.  Cairo,  in  the  win- 
ter, is  one  of  the  most  delightful  cities  in  the  world  ; and  the 
brief  morning  glance  I had  of  it  brought  back  with  double 
force  the  charms  of  my  past  Oriental  life. 

At  8 o’clock,  I bade  adieu  to  Monsieur  Nolt4,  and 
Achmet  and  the  donkey-boy,  and  took  my  place  in  the  allot- 
ted van.  These  vehicles  bear  a strong  resemblance  to  a 
baker’s  cart.  They  are  about  six  feet  by  four  in  size,  mounted 


18 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


on  a single  pair  of  wheels,  and  entered  by  a door  in  the 
rear.  Each  van  carries  six  persons,  so  you  may  conceive  that 
there  is  very  little  vacant  space.  The  driver  sits  on  a box  in 
front,  and  an  Arab  assistant  rides  on  the  step  behind.  There 
are  four  horses  to  each,  which  are  changed  about  every  five 
miles.  The  distance  to  Suez — 84  miles — is  divided  into  six- 
teen stages,  and  the  usual  length  of  the  journey  is  sixteen 
hours. 

Our  six  vans,  forming  one  “ batch,”  as  it  is  called,  receive 
their  respective  parties,  and  we  dash  out  of  Cairo  by  the  Suez 
gate.  The  morning  is  exquisitely  mild,  fair,  and  balmy,  and 
the  palm-groves  of  the  Nile,  on  our  left,  never  looked  more 
beautiful.  Outside  of  the  gate  there  is  an  encampment  of 
several  hundred  tents,  which  we  take  to  be  those  of  the  pil- 
grims preparing  for  their  journey  to  Mecca.  Some  of  the 
party  are  absorbed  in  the  Tombs  of  the  Caliphs,  and  others 
in  Abbas  Pasha’s  white  Italian  palace,  when,  as  we  climb  a 
long,  sandy  rise — the  first  step  of  the  Desert — an  eye  that 
knows  in  what  direction  to  look,  sees  the  Pyramids  looming 
large  and  blue,  far  away  over  the  city.  You  can  look  at  noth- 
ing else,  when  you  have  the  Pyramids  in  your  landscape,  and 
so  we  watch  them  fade,  and  sink,  and  recede,  till  our  horses 
draw  up  at  the  first  station  in  the  Desert. 

Yes,  this  is  the  Desert : but  the  young  lady  who  goes  out 
to  be  married  in  India  would  not  have  thought  it.  The  Nile 
Valley  is  still  in  sight  behind  us ; but  even  looking  toward 
the  Red  Sea,  here  is  a broad  macadamized  road,  filled  with 
camels,  and  Arabs,  and  donkeys,  to  say  nothing  of  our  six 
rapid  coaches ; two  telegraph  towers  on  the  sandy  hills ; and 
five  miles  before  us,  the  station  where  we  shall  again  change 


COCKNEY  FEARS — THE  DESERT. 


19 


horses.  It  is  a barren,  desolate  country,  certainly ; but  it  is 
not  the  Desert  of  one’s  dreams — not  that  silent,  fiery  world  of 
tawny  sand  and  ink-black  porphyry  mountains  in  the  heart  of 
Nubia,  over  which  I had  travelled  a year  before. 

I was  amused  at  seeing  many  of  our  passengers,  immedi- 
ately on  reaching  Alexandria,  wind  great  white  shawls  around 
their  hats,  and  hang  green  veils  over  their  faces.  While 
crossing  the  Desert,  although  the  temperature  was  not  above 
70®  at  noon,  they  persisted  in  doing  the  same  thing,  and  some 
of  them  even  protected  their  eyes  with  spectacles,  although 
there  was  no  glare  that  would  have  made  an  infant  wink. 
According  to  their  ideas,  they  were  in  constant  peril  of  hav- 
ing a sun-stroke,  or  catching  the  ophthalmia.  My  companions 
in  the  van  were  inured  to  an  Indian  sun,  and  so  we  threw 
aside  all  fears,  and  made  merry  from  one  side  of  the 
Desert  to  the  other.  At  the  fourth  station  we  stopped  an 
hour  to  breakfast.  Here  we  found  a spacious  two-story  house, 
with  a large  dining-saloon,  divans,  &c.,  and  an  excellent 
breakfast  for  thirty  persons  on  the  table.  There  were  several 
neat  bedrooms  for  the  accommodation  of  persons  who  wish  to 
make  the  journey  more  slowly. 

The  country^ through  which  we  passed  was  low  and  monoto- 
nous, and  we  saw  no  mountains  until  we  approached  the  Red 
Sea.  There  are  three  trees  on  the  road — one  large  and  two 
small  ones,  but  no  wells.  At  the  eighth,  or  half-way  station, 
we  had  dinner,  and  were  allowed  two  hours  rest.  The  meals 
were  all  gotten  up  and  served  by  natives,  the  Transit  Ad- 
ministration being  a perquisite  of  the  Pasha  of  Egypt.  Con- 
sidering that  every  thing  has  to  be  brought  from  Cairo,  they 
were  very  good  indeed.  Opposite  the  Central  Station,  Abbas 


20 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


Pasha  built  a large  palace  on  the  summit  of  a hill,  where 
he  often  went  to  spend  a few  days  and  breathe  the  healthy 
desert  air.  All  the  supplies,  of  course,  have  to  be  brought 
from  the  Nile — a distance  of  nearly  fifty  miles.  I approve 
entirely  of  the  Pasha’s  taste,  and  should  like  nothing  better 
than  the  use  of  a suite  of  apartments  in  the  palace  for  a few 
months.  The  long  white  front  of  the  building,  crowning  a 
naked  range  of  gray  hills,  has  a striking  effect  when  viewed 
from  the  Suez  road. 

The  sun  set  before  we  left  the  midway  station.  We  drove 
on  in  the  dark,  without  other  incident  than  passing  long 
strings  of  camels  laden  with  our  baggage,  and  the  specie  and 
mails  for  India.  Now  and  then  some  of  our  teams  would 
come  to  a halt  in  a streak  of  deep  sand,  and  this  would  detain 
all  the  others,  for  the  orders  are  very  strict  that  the  vans 
should  keep  together.  There  are  no  ascents  or  descents  on 
the  road  worth  notice.  A railroad  could  be  constructed  with 
but  moderate  trouble  and  expense.* 

An  hour  after  midnight  we  reached  Suez,  and  were  at 
once  driven  to  the  Government  Hotel,  a dreary  quadrangular 
building  on  the  sea-shore.  The  rooms  were  all  filled,  of 
course,  but  we  obtained  a cotton  quilt  and  part  of  a hard 
divan  in  the  billiard-room,  at  the  rate  of  a dollar  apiece. 
All  the  baggage  arrived  during  the  night.  Even  the  specie- 
laden camels,  which  left  Cairo  at  the  same  time  as  ourselves. 


* Recent  mails  from  the  East  (May,  1855)  announce  that  Said  Pasha 
has  determined  to  extend  the  Alexandria  and  Cairo  Railroad,  now  nearly 
completed,  to  Suez.  If  the  work  is  prosecuted  with  the  same  vigor  as 
heretofore,  the  transit  from  Alexandria  to  the  latter  place,  three  years 
hence,  will  occupy  but  eight  or  ten  hours. 


SUEZ 


21 


\vere  at  Suez  early  tlie  next  morning.  The  two  steamers,  the 
Hindostan  and  Achilles,  lay  at  the  anchorage,  three  miles  off, 
but  there  was  a smaller  steamer  in  waiting  to  take  us  out. 
Our  baggage,  tickets,  and  other  preliminaries,  engaged  all  our 
time,  and  I saw  nothing  of  Suez  except  the  white  quadrangle 
of  the  hotel,  two  ugly  minarets,  and  a great  quantity  of  mud 
huts.  I suspect  these  are  about  as  much  as  anybody  sees. 
The  American  flag  was  flying  from  a lofty  flag-staff,  on  ac- 
count of  the  presence  of  the  Hon.  Humphrey  Marshall,  U.  S. 
Commissioner  to  China,  who  was  on  board  the  Hindostan.  I 
took  leave  of  a number  of  good  friends,  who  were  bound  to 
Madras,  Calcutta,  and  China,  and  went  on  board  the  Achilles. 
The  day  was  excessively  hot  and  sultry,  and  the  Captain  of 
our  steamer  received  a sun-stroke  while  on  shore,  from  the 
effects  of  which  he  was  confined  to  his  berth  during  the  whole 
voyage. 

We  weighed  anchor  about  10  o’clock  the  same  evening, 
the  Hindostan  having  left  an  hour  before  us.  Our  passen- 
gers were  between  seventy  and  eighty  in  number,  and  as  the 
Achilles  rated  less  than  a thousand  tons,  we  were  crowded 
rather  too  much  for  comfort,  though  in  all  respects  we  fared 
better  than  we  did  on  board  the  Haddington.  The  stewards 
were  mostly  Hindoos,  the  sailors  the  same,  the  cooks  two  Por- 
tuguese and  a Chinaman,  and  the  firemen  hideous,  monkey- 
faced negroes  from  Mozambique.  Among  the  passengers  were 
a Portuguese  General,  the  Governor  of  Mozambique,  a Turkish 
Bey,  Ambassador  to  Yemen,  and  a Transylvanian,  who  for 
fifteen  years  was  Court  Physician  to  Runjeet  Singh  at 
Lahore,  and  was  then  bound  for  Cashmere  and  Thibet 
Amid  such  a motley  gathering  of  character  and  nationalitiea 


22 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


there  was  no  lack  of  diversion.  For  myself,  when  I drank 
Bombay  w'ater,  ate  real  curry,  hailed  the  waiter  as  “khit- 
mudgar  ! ” and  was  addressed  by^him  as  “ sahib  ! ” I felt  that 
I was  already  in  India. 

The  morning  showed  us  the  shores  of  Egypt  on  the  one 
hand,  and  the  red  mountains  of  the  Sinaitic  Peninsula  on  the 
other.  The  Gulf  of  Suez  is  so  narrow  that  you  have  a dis- 
tinct view  of  both  shores,  alike  hopelessly  sterile,  but  en- 
chanting in  outline  and  color.  The  thousand-fold  shadows  of 
those  sandstone  mountains,  tinted  with  tlie  fairest  rose,  pur- 
ple, and  violet  hues,  are  pencilled  with  the  delicacy  of  a min- 
iature painting.  The  loftier  range  of  Horeb,  which  rises 
inland,  presents  a sharp,  serrated  outline.  I tried  to  per- 
suade myself  that  I saw  the  peak  of  Sinai,  but  the  ship’s 
officers  insisted  that  it  was  not  visible  from  the  Gulf  of  Suez. 
In  addition  to  the  absorbing  interest  of  the  scene,  the  shores 
had  a grand  continental  significance.  Here  was  Africa,  there 
Asia.  Like  the  Bosphorus  which  parts  Europe  and  Asia,  or 
the  straits  of  Gibraltar,  where  Africa  confronts  Europe,  this 
part  of  the  Red  Sea  possesses  a grandeur  beyond  that  which 
Nature  gives  it. 

In  the  afternoon  we  passed  Ras  Mohammed,  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  Peninsula  where  the  Gulf  of  Akaba  joins  that 
of  Suez.  We  then  lost  sight  of  the  Arabian  shore,  while 
only  the  higher  peaks  of  the  mountains  in  the  deserts  of 
Egypt  and  Nubia  were  visible.  On  the  13th,  we  entered  the 
tropics,  and  each  day  thenceforth  showed  a marked  increase 
of  temperature.  By  the  noon  observation  on  the  following 
day,  we  were  in  Lat.  21°  30',  off  the  port  of  Djidda,  and  not 
more  than  a hundred  miles,  in  a straight  line,  from  Mecca — 


REb  SEA  WEATHER  AND  SCENERY. 


23 


probably  the  nearest  approach  I shall  ever  make  to  the  Holy 
City. 

After  passing  St.  John’s  Islands,  off  the  ancient  port  of 
Berenice,  we  lost  sight  of  both  shores  until  the  evening  of  the 
l6th,  when  Djebel  Tor,  or  Teir,  a lofty  volcanic  island,  ap- 
peared on  the  left.  Early  the  next  morning  we  made  Djebel 
Sogheir,  and  ran  along  close  to  its  shores.  It  is  about  a 
thousand  feet  in  height,  and  resembles  a huge  mass  of  cin- 
ders. Some  palms  were  growing  on  the  northern  slope,  but 
there  was  no  sign  of  habitation.  We  had  a violent  head- 
wind, or  rather  gale,  similar  to  those  which  are  frequently 
met  with  off  the  mouth  of  the  Gulf  of  California.  Yet,  in 
spite  of  this  strong  current  of  air,  the  thermometer  stood  at 
85°  on  deck  and  90°  in  the  cabin.  For  two  or  three  days  we 
lad  a temperature  of  90°  to  95°.  This  part  of  the  Ked  Sea  is 
considered  to  be  the  hottest  portion  of  the  earth’s  surface.  In  the  ^ 
summer  the  air  is  like  that  of  a furnace,  and  the  bare  red  moun- 
tains glow  like  heaps  of  live  coals.  The  steamers  at  that 
time  almost  invariably  lose  some  of  their  stewards  and  fire- 
men. Cooking  is  quite  given  up,  and  the  panting  and  swel- 
tering passengers  drink  claret  and  water  and  eat  dry  biscuits. 

In  the  afternoon  we  had  a glimpse  of  the  town  of  Mocha 
about  ten  miles  distant.  It  is  built  on  low  land,  but  a range 
of  mountains  rises  in  the  background.  With  a telescope,  I 
could  plainly  distinguish  the  white  citadel,  and  a long  line  of 
low,  flat-roofed  buildings,  looming  through  the  hot  vapors  of 
the  coast.  The  famous  Mocha  coffee  does  not  grow  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  town,  but  is  brought  from  the  valleys  of  the 
interior.  Hodeida,  further  up  the  coast,  is  another  port  for 
its  exportation,  but  the  foreign  trade  of  both  these  places  has 


24 


Hn>IA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


been  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  the  rise  of  Aden.  The  cof- 
fee is  taken  down  to  the  latter  port  in  the  native  coasters,  or 
by  caravans  from  the  interior,  and  there  shipped  for  Europe  and 
other  parts  of  the  world.  Much  of  the  so-called  Mocha  coffee, 
1 am  told,  is  actually  grown  in  Abyssinia. 

We  now  approached  the  Straits  of  Bab-el- Mandeb,  the 
“ Gate  of  Tears,”  which  we  passed  about  midnight.  The  pas- 
sage for  vessels  is  about  three  miles  wide,  and  not  at  all  dan- 
gerous in  clear  weather.  The  Arabian  and  Abyssinian  shores 
are  hilly,  but  not  mountainous.  Had  not  the  weather  been  so 
hazy,  we  should  have  seen  the  lofty  range  of  the  Danakil,  on 
the  Abyssinian  side.  The  latitude  of  the  Straits  is  about 
12°  40',  about  the  same  which  I had  attained  the  previous 
winter,  on  the  White  Nile. 

On  the  next  morning  we  were  in  the  Indian  Ocean.  The 
barren  volcanic  headlands  of  Arabia  Felix  rose  on  our  left, 
point  beyond  point,  till  at  last  a larger  and  loftier  mass  was 
declared  to  be  the  Rock  of  Aden.  The  pale-green  water 
through  which  we  were  sailing  told  of  reefs  and  shoals,  and 
the  ship  made  a wide  curve  to  the  eastward  before  entering 
the  bay.  The  main  land  of  Arabia  presents  a level,  sandy 
coast,  with  few  indentations,  and  the  Bay  of  Aden  is  formed 
by  two  narrow  peninsulas  which  project  from  it  at  right  angles, 
their  extremities  shooting  up  suddenly  into  clusters  of  black, 
ragged  volcanic  cones,  about  1,500  feet  in  height.  No  de- 
scription can  give  any  idea  of  the  savage  sterility  of  these 
mountains.  They  are  masses  of  cinders  and  scorije,  glowing 
as  if  with  still  unextinguished  fires,  and  the  air  around  them 
quivers  with  the  heat  radiated  from  their  sides.  Their  forms 
exhibit  all  the  violence  of  the  convulsion  which  created  them ; 


TEE  FORTRESS  OF  ADEN. 


26 


heaps  of  burned  fragments,  cliffs  divided  by  deep  fissures,  and 
sharp,  inaccessible  cones,  shooting  upward  like  congealed 
flames  from  the  rubbish  of  extinct  craters.  Some  profane 
tourist  speaks  of  Aden  as  resembling  “ Hell  with  the  fires 
put  out  ” — a forcible  simile,  but  very  much  to  the  point. 

The  town  and  fortress  of  Aden  occupy  the  eastern  pe- 
ninsula, which  was  obtained  from  the  Sultan  of  Lahadj,  in  the 
year  1839,  partly  by  force  and  partly  by  treaty.  The  sum  of 
$250,000  was  paid  to  the  Sultan  by  the  East  India  Company, 
and  the  chieftain  prudently  sold  what  was  already  more  than 
half  wrested  from  him.  Nevertheless,  his  son  and  successor 
did  his  best  to  have  the  bargain  annulled,  offering  to  refund 
the  money.  This  was  of  course  rejected,  and  the  place  was 
for  a number  of  years  exposed  to  assaults  from  the  Arabs  of 
Lahadj,  who  were  violently  opposed  to  the  sale,  and  to  the 
establishment  of  a foreign  colony  on  the  coast.  In  spite  of  all 
precautions,  robbery  and  murder  were  constantly  perpetrated 
in  the  town  and  camp,  until  the  fortifications  on  the  land-side 
were  completed.  At  present,  there  is  tolerable  security  inside 
of  the  walls,  but  no  one  ventures  many  miles  into  the  interior, 
unless  attended  by  a strong  armed  escort.  The  harbor  of 
Aden  was  known  to  the  Komans,  and  its  importance  as  a 
point  of  communication  with'  the  Indies  seems  to  have  been 
understood  by  the  Turks,  as  there  are  still  the  remains  of  for- 
tifications, which  were  constructed  in  the  time  of  Solyman 
the  Magnificent.  Th’6’  rock  is  about  six  miles  in  length,  by 
from  two  to  three  in  breadth,  and  its  highest  point  is  said  to 
be  1,800  feet  above  the  sea. 

TV e ran  in,  along  the  western  base,  until  on  turning  a small 
headland,  we  came  upon  a sheltered  roadstead,  in  which  half  a 

2 


25 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAIAN. 


dozen  English  colliers  and  a number  of  small  Arab  craft  lay 
at  anchor.  Here  our  own  anchor  dropped,  and  the  ship  was 
presently  surrounded  by  boats  rowed  by  half-naked  blacks, 
some  of  whom  made  themselves  entirely  so,  and  commenced 
diving  and  splashing  in  the  water,  in  the  hope  of  getting 
shillings  thrown  over  for  them  to  fish  up.  A few  long,  one- 
story  white  houses  and  some  heaps  of  Newcastle  coal  were 
scattered  over  a level  piece  of  sand,  at  the  head  of  a cove,  and 
on  a slight  eminence  towards  the  sea  there  was  a group 
of  cane  huts,  built  in  the  Robinson  Crusoe  style.  On  this 
eminence  there  is  a sunken  battery,  barely  visible  from  the 
water,  but  said  to  be  strong  enough  to  sink  any  hostile  vessel 
which  may  attempt  to  enter  the  harbor.  A few  days  before 
our  arrival,  a French  corvette,  which  had  been  cruising  in  the 
Endian  Ocean,  came  into  Aden  with  her  guns  ready  shotted 
and  manned,  in  full  expectation  of  being  fired  upon,  her  com 
mander  supposing  that  Louis  Napoleon  had  commenced  the 
invasion  of  England.  I went  ashore  in  a small  boat,  rowed 
by  four  Somali,  or  natives  of  the  African  coast,  near  Cape 
Guardafui.  They  appear  to  be  a low  variety  of  the  Arab  race, 
having  dark  brown  skins,  deep-set  eyes,  long,  straight  noses, 
and  handsome,  curling  hair.  They  are  less  partial  to  mutton- 
fat  than  the  tribes  on  the  Red  Sea,  but  their  long  locks,  which 
are  naturally  of  a glossy  blue-black  hue,  are  dyed  brown,  or 
dark  red,  which  imparts  a goat-like,  satyric  air  to  their  lank, 
nimble  figures.  Their  language  is  a very  bad  Arabic,  which 
I could  with  difficulty  understand.  No  sooner  had  we  landed 
than  we  were  surrounded  with  the  owners  of  donkeys  and 
horses,  anxious  to  hire  them  to  as  for  a ride  to  Aden.  The 


RIDE  TO  THE  OLD  TOWN. 


27 


old  town  lies  on  the  other  side  of  the  Peninsula,  and  is  not 
visible  from  the  landing-place. 

I took  a horse  and  rode  off  at  once,  followed  by  the  at- 
tendant native.  The  road,  which  is  alternately  of  sand  and 
macadamized  volcanic  cinders,  follows  the  curve  of  the  bay 
towards  the  northern  end  of  the  rock,  where  there  is  a strong 
gate,  affording  the  only  land  communication  with  the  sandy 
Arabian  plains  beyond.  The  natives  are  here  obliged  to  give 
up  their  arms,  owing  to  which  precaution  there  are  now  but  few 
crimes  committed,  in  comparison  with  former  years.  As  I 
rode  along,  between  the  black,  scorched  hills,  and  over  the 
blistering  sand,  amid  the  almost  insupportable  glare  of  white 
noonday  heat,  my  eyes  turned  to  seek  the  dazzling  blue  and 
violet-green  tints  of  the  bay  with  an  exquisite  sense  of  relief. 
After  two  or  three  miles  of  this  travel,  the  road  turned  inland, 
ascending  the  less  abrupt  slopes  of  the  hills.  I came  at  length 
to  an  artificial  pass,  about  forty  feet  deep,  by  twenty  wide,  cut 
through  the  comb  of  the  central  ridge.  It  was  closed  by  a 
ponderous  double  gateway,  and  the  wall  of  circumvallation 
crossed  by  an  arch.  An  Indian  sepoy  stood  guard  at  the  gate 
as  I passed  through.  The  road  was  filled  with  Arabs  from  the 
interior,  bringing  camel-loads  of  their  produce  to  market,  and 
with  the  mongrel  natives  of  the  African  coast.  Among  the 
latter  I readily  distinguished  the  natives  of  Adel,  the  country 
lying  south  of  Abyssinia.  Major  Harris,  in  his  “ Highlands 
of  Ethiopia,”  calls  them  the  “ mild-eyed  Adael,”  and  truly 
the  expression  of  their  features  is  feminine  in  its  mildness  and 
gentleness.  They,  as  well  as  the  natives  of  Aden,  speak  Arabic 
substituting  only  the  Hindoostanee  word  “ sahib  ” (master,) 
for  the  “ Howadji  ” of  Egypt. 


28  INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 

Beyond  the  pass,  the  town  of  Aden  came  into  view.  It 
lies  in  a circular  sandy  basin,  almost  enclosed  by  black  moun- 
tains of  volcanic  cinder.  The  buildings,  which  are  spacious 
huts  of  wood,  cane  or  mud,  one  story  in  height,  are  scattered 
over  an  extent  of  three  quarters  of  a mile.  The  dry  bed  of 
a torrent  which  divides  the  town,  proves  that  it  sometimes  rains 
at  Aden,  although  I was  informed  that  a heavy  fall  of  rain 
does  not  occur  more  than  once  or  twice  a year.  A new  mosque, 
a small  Christian  Church,  and  a tall  tower  (built,  I believe,  for 
an  observatory),  were  the  only  objects  which  distinguished  them- 
selves amid  the  mass  of  huts.  There  were  two  or  three  feeble 
attempts  at  cultivating  small  square  yards  of  ground,  and 
these  pigmy  specks  of  green  gave  life  and  cheerfulness  to  a 
scene  which  would  otherwise  have  been  depressing  from  its 
utter  desolation.  The  only  water  on  the  peninsula  is  brackish 
and  disagreeable,  and  is  rarely  used  in  an  unmixed  state.  Tho 
Arabs  bring  a better  kind  from  the  opposite  headland,  for 
which  they  are  paid  at  the  rate  of  $1.50  per  100  gallons. 
The  only  things  the  place  affords  are  fish  and  oysters;  all 
other  supplies  must  be  imported.  There  are  a number  of 
shops  in  the  town,  kept  by  Hindoo  merchants,  and  there  for 
the  first  time  I saw  the  Parsee,  or  Fire-Worshipper,  wearing 
the  high  chintz  mitre  which  is  peculiar  to  his  sect. 

I made  the  tour  of  the  airy  bamboo  huts  on  the  beach, 
where  the  78th  Kegiment  was  quartered.  The  soldiers  were 
lounging  lazily  in  the  shade,  for  since  the  wall  of  defence  has 
been  finished,  their  duties  are  very  light.  Some  of  the 
officers  had  brought  their  families  with  them,  so  that  there  was  a 
small  English  community.  The  temperature  of  Aden  ranges 
generally  from  80°  to  90°,  with  a maximum  of  98°,  and  a 


THE  FORTIFICATIONS. 


29 


minimum  of  75°,  being  more  e(][uable  than  almost  any  other 
climate  in  the  world.  As  there  is  no  miasma  from  vegetable 
matter,  it  is  considered  healthy.  An  officer  who  had  been 
stationed  there  more  than  four  years,  informed  me  that  out  of 
ninety  men  whom  he  brought  with  him,  he  had  only  lost  two. 

I rode  through  the  bazaar  in  the  native  part  of  the  town. 
The  principal  commodities  were  coarse  cotton  stuffs,  dates, 
sugar,  spices,  and  bad  tobacco.  I dismounted  at  a small  coffee 
shop,  but  both  the  coffee  and  the  narghileh  were  so  intolerably 
bad  that  I gave  them  to  the  nearest  native.  A large  crowd  of 
Arabs  collected  around  me,  and  the  most  intelligent  of  them 
asked  me  the  news  from  Damascus  and  Stamboul.  They  said 
there  had  recently  been  war  in  Yemen,  and  that  Shekh  Hos 
sayn  was  then  at  the  head  of  the  tribes.  Leaving  the  town, 
I returned  to  the  western  side  of  the  peninsula  and  visited 
the  Turkish  Wall,  which  is  the  main  defence  of  the  place,  on 
the  land  side.  The  Rock  of  Aden  resembles  that  of  Grib- 
raltar  in  being  attached  to  the  main  land  by  a narrow  strip 
of  sand,  but  instead  of  presenting  an  unbroken  line  of  pre- 
cipice, as  at  the  latter  place,  the  hills  form  a crescent,  with 
the  concave  side  toward  the  north.  The  points  of  this 
crescent  are  connected  by  a powerful  wall,  further  protected 
by  a deep  moat  and  sloping  glacis,  and  the  heights  at  each  end 
are  crowned  with  batteries.  Immense  sums  have  been  ex- 
pended on  these  fortifications,  which,  though  far  from  being 
completed,  now  afford  perfect  security  against  foes  by  land. 

The  value  of  Aden  as  a naval  station  has  been  much  ex- 
aggerated. It  has  been  called  the  “ Gibraltar  of  the  East,” 
perhaps  with  reason,  since,  like  Gibraltar,  it  can  be  of  no  use 
without  a fleet.  At  present^  it  could  scarcely  be  called  im- 


30 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


pregnable,  but  were  it  so,  might  readily  be  starved  into  capita 
ulation,  as  Gibraltar  might  be,  if  England  should  lose  her 
naval  supremacy.  Nevertheless,  as  a necessary  station  on 
the  Overland  Route,  its  possession  is  of  the  utmost  impor- 
tance to  England,  and  it  belongs  to  her  geographically ^ as 
the  Fillibusters  say.  The  fortifications  are  most  admirably 
planned.  The  skill  and  genius  exhibited  in  their  design  im* 
pressed  me  far  more  than  the  massive  strength  of  Gibraltar 
I never  felt  more  forcibly  the  power  of  that  civilization  which 
follows  the  Anglo-Saxon  race  in  all  its  conquests,  and  takes  root 
in  whatever  corner  of  the  earth  that  race  sets  its  foot.  Here, 
on  the  farthest  Arabian  shore,  facing  the  most  savage  and 
inhospitable  regions  of  Africa,  were  Law,  Order,  Security, 
Freedom  of  Conscience  and  of  Speech,  and  all  the  material 
advantages  which  are  inseparable  from  these.  Herein  con- 
sists the  true  power  and  grandeur  of  the  race,  and  the  assu- 
rance of  its  final  supremacy. 

The  population  of  Aden,  which  was  little  more  than  1,000 
at  the  time  it  was  acquired  by  England,  now  amounts  to  up- 
wards of  20,000.  It  has  almost  ruined  Mocha  and  the  other 
Arabian  ports  on  the  Red  Sea,  having  usurped  the  greater 
part  of  their  commerce.  It  is  a free  port,  and  the  native 
merchants  are  but  too  willing  to  transfer  their  trade  to  it, 
thereby  escaping  the  burdensome  and  indiscriminate  duties 
exacted  by  the  Turkish  Government.  The  resident  merchants 
in  Mocha,  Hodeida  and  Djidda  have  petitioned  the  East  India 
Company  to  establish  Customs  at  Aden,  but  without  effect. 

The  Achilles  took  on  board  three  hundred  tons  of  coal, 
and  at  half-past  nine  in  the  evening  fired  her  signal  gun  for 
the  passengers  to  come  off.  One  young  lady,  however,  re- 


THE  INDIAN  OCEAN. 


31 


mained  nearly  two  hours  longer,  the  steamer  waiting  solely  on 
her  account.  Less  consideration  was  shown  to  a luckless 
Dative,  who  had  fallen  asleep  in  one  of  the  boats  and  was  not 
observed  until  we  were  under  way.  He  was  immediately 
thrown  overboard  in  spite  of  his  entreaties,  and  left  to  take  his 
chance  of  reaching  the  shore,  which  was  half  a mile  distant 
There  was  a collier  lying  about  a hundred  yards  off,  but  he 
would  not  be  able  to  get  on  board  of  her  so  late  at  night,  and 
the  forcing  of  him  into  the  sea,  under  the  circumstances 
showed  a most  criminal  disregard  of  human  life. 

On  the  following  day,  some  mountains  about  a hundred 
miles  east  of  Aden  were  in  sight;  they  were  our  last  view  of 
Araby  the  Blest.  We  were  from  fifteen  to  twenty  miles  dis- 
tant from  the  shore,  and  the  loveliest  tints  of  violet,  lilac  and 
rose-color  concealed  its  sterility.  After  leaving  the  Bed  Sea, 
the  temperature  became  a few  degrees  cooler,  the  thermometer 
showing  80°  at  night,  and  85°  to  87°  at  noon.  The  Indian 
Ocean  was  calm  and  peaceful,  the  violence  of  the  north-east 
monsoon  being  over,  so  that,  although  it  blew  in  our  faces,  it 
only  served  to  freshen  our  nights  and  noons.  We  took  our 
meals  under  an  awning  on  deck,  and  some  of  the  passengers 
preferred  sleeping  there.  Where  this  open-air  life  is  possible 
at  sea,  a long  voyage  is  endurable — otherwise,  rather  a thou- 
sand miles  on  land,  than  a hundred  on  the  waters. 

Our  fare  was  so  much  better  than  that  on  board  the  Had- 
dington, that  we  Old  not  complain  much.  The  coffee  and  tea, 
however,  gave  evidence  of  astonishing  skill,  for  I never  im- 
agined it  possible  that  these  beverages  could  be  so  badly  made. 
The  passengers  were  often  quite  unable  to  distinguish  one 
from  the  other.  On  the  other  hand  we  had  capital  bread,  the 


32 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


baker  being  a Chinaman,  who  kept  secret  his  manner  of  pre 
paring  it.  The  curry  was  genuine,  and  would  have  compen- 
sated for  many  deficiencies  in  other  respects.  On  Christmas 
Day  we  had  a handsome  banquet  on  deck,  and  turkey  was 
liberally  dispensed  to  all  on  board.  The  evening  was  spent  in 
festivities,  the  passengers  dancing  polkas  on  the  quarter-deck, 
the  wild  Africans  yelling  and  clapping  hands  amid-ships,  and 
the  sailors  performing  hornpipes  on  the  forecastle. 

The  distance  from  Aden  to  Bombay  is  1,664  miles,  and 
after  having  been  at  sea  nine  days,  with  a prospect  of  getting 
out  of  coal,  we  grew  at  last  somewhat  impatient.  Finally, 
on  the  morning  of  the  27th  of  December — ^precisely  a month 
after  I embarked  at  Gibraltar — the  cessation  of  the  monsoon, 
the  sultriness  of  the  air,  the  appearance  of  the  clouds,  and  the 
arrival  of  a dove  on  board,  denoted  the  proximity  of  land.  I 
have  rarely  approached  any  country  with  a keener  interest. 
Scarce  Vasco  de  Gama  himself,  after  weathering  the  Cape 
of  Storms,  could  have  watched  for  the  shores  of  India  with 
more  excited  anticipation.  That  vision  of  gorgeous  Ind,  the 
Empress  far  away  in  the  empurpled  East,  throned  on  the  best 
grandeurs  of  History  and  canopied  by  sublime  tradition,  was 
about  to  be  confirmed,  or  displaced  for  ever.  Near  at  hand, 
close  behind  the  blue  sea-horizon,  lay  that  which  would  either 
heighten  the  fascination  of  her  name,  or  make  it  thenceforth 
but  an  empty  sound  to  the  ear  of  Fancy. 

Therefore,  in  spite  of  the  breathless  heat,  I keep  watch 
from  one  of  the  paddle-boxes.  At  noon  there  is  a cry  of 
“ Land ! ” from  the  foremast,  and  in  a short  time  the  tops  of 
mountains  are  faintly  discernible  on  the  horizon.  These  are 
the  Western  Ghauts,  which  extend  along  the  Malabar  Coast, 


APPROACH  TO  BOMBAY. 


33 


from  Cape  Comorin  to  Surat.  The  island  of  Salsctte,  north 
of  Bombay,  next  rises,  and  ere  long  we  distinguish  the  light- 
house, at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor.  A considerable  extent 
of  coast,  north  and  south,  is  visible — the  mountains  picturesque 
and  beautiful  in  their  forms,  and  exhibiting,  in  their  drapery 
of  forests,  a marked  contrast  to  the  desert  hills  of  Arabia, 
which  we  have  last  seen.  We  are  now  near  enough  to  distin- 
guish the  city,  the  dwellings  of  the  residents  on  Malabar  Hill, 
and  the  groves  of  cocoa-nut  and  date  trees  which  cover  the 
island.  The  sea  swarms  with  fishing-boats,  and  our  native 
pilot  is  already  on  board.  We  are  signalled  from  the  light- 
house, and  being  five  days  behind  our  time,  are  no  doubt  anx 
iously  looked  for. 

The  Bay  opens  magnificently  as  we  advance.  It  lies  be- 
tween the  islands  of  Bombay  and  Salsette  and  the  mainland, 
and  must  be  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  in  length.  Both  shores 
are  mountainous  and  thi(3kly  covered  with  the  palmy  growths 
of  the  tropics.  All  is  confusion  on  board,  and  I also  must 
prepare  b)  set  foot  on  the  land  of  Brahma,  Vishnu  and  Shiva. 


2* 


CHAPTER  II. 

IMPRESSIONS  OF  BOMBAY. 

A Foretaste  of  India— Entering  Bombay  Ilarbor— I Reach  the  Shore— My  First  Ride 
in  a Palanquin— Mr.  Pallanjee's  Hotel— Appearance  of  Bombay— Its  Situation— The 
First  Indian  Railroad— English  Uospitality— American  Consuls  and  Residents— The 
Parsecs — Sir  Jamsetjee  Jeejeebhoy — Ilis  Family  and  Residence — Parsec  Faith  and 
Ceremonies— Bridal  Processions— A Drive  to  Malabar  Hill — Tropical  Gardens — Tax 
on  Palm-Trees— A Hindoo  Temple  —The  Jeejeebhoy  Hospital— Dr.  Bhawoo  Dajee. 


Before  reaching  Bombay,  I had  a slight  foreshadowing  of 
Indian  life.  The  servants  on  the  steamer  being  all  Indians, 
and  the  passengers  mostly  belonging  to  the  East  India  service, 
many  peculiarities  of  every-day  life  were  already  familiar  to 
me.  I had  mastered  the  mysteries  of  curry;  I learned  to 
say  “ tiffin  ” instead  of  “ lunch ; ” I became  accustomed  to 
being  addressed  as  “sahib,”  and  even  ventured  so  far  into 
Hindustani,  as  to  call  out  boldly  at  table  : do  ! ” (give 

me  water)  or : “ saf  hasan  lao  ! ” (bring  a clean  plate).  Thus 
the  first  bloom  of  the  new  land  was  lost  to  me — all  those 
nameless  slight  peculiarities  which  surround  you  with  an  en- 
chanted circle  when  you  first  plunge  yourself  into  another 
climate  and  another  race.  Nevertheless,  there  was  enough 


GOING  ASHORE. 


35 


left  to  make  my  landing  on  Indian  soil  a circumstance  of  no 
ordinary  character. 

We  came  slowly  up  the  splendid  bay,  until  within  half  a 
mile  of  the  town.  The  shores  being  low,  nothing  but  an  array 
of  brown  tiled  roofs,  and  a small  Gothic  spire,  was  visible 
behind  the  crowd  of  vessels  at  anchor.  On  the  other  hand, 
however,  the  islands  of  Eiephanta  and  Panwell,  and  the  ranges 
of  the  Mahratta  Ghauts,  were  gorgeously  lighted  up  by  the 
evening  sun.  But  little  time  was  allowed  for  admiring  them ; 
the  anchor  dropped,  and  a fleet  of  boats,  conveying  anxious 
friends  and  relatives,  gathered  about  us.  The  deck  was 
covered  with  pyramids  of  baggage,  all  was  noise  and  confusion, 
here  shouts  of  joy  and  there  weeping,  here  meeting  and  there 
parting,  many  scenes  of  the  drama  of  life  enacted  at  the  same 
moment.  Finding  myself  left  wholly  to  my  own  resources,  I 
set  about  extricating  myself  from  the  bewilderment,  and  ac- 
cepting the  flrst  native  who  addressed  me,  I embarked  for  the 
shore  before  the  other  passengers  had  thought  of  leaving. 

“ Rupees,”  said  the  master  of  the  boat,  holding  up  three  of 
his  Angers.  “ (one)  I answered.  Up  went  two  Angers. 

Ek,'^^  again;  and  so  I went  ashore  for  one.  We  came  to  a 
stone  pier,  with  a long  flight  of  steps  leading  down  to  the 
water.  The  top  of  it  was  thronged  with  natives  in  white 
dresses  and  red  turbans.  Among  them  were  the  runners  of 
the  hotels,  and  I soon  found  the  one  I wanted.  At  a small 
customs  office  on  the  pier,  my  baggage  was  passed  unexamined, 
on  my  declaring  that  I had  but  two  pounds  of  Turkish  to- 
bacco. A line  of  cabs,  buggies  and  palanquins  with  their  * 
bearers  was  drawn  up  on  the  pier,  and  in  order  to  be  as  Indian 
as  possible,  I took  one  of  the  latter. 


36 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


It  was  not  a pleasant  sensation  to  lie  at  full  length  in  a 
cushioned  box,  and  impose  one’s  whole  weight  (and  I am  by 
no  means  a feather)  upon  the  shoulders  of  four  men.  Ii  is  a 
conveyance  invented  by  Despotism,  when  men’s  necks  were 
footstools^  and  men’s  heads  playthings.  I have"  never  yet 
been  able  to  get  into  it  without  a feeling  ‘of  reluctance,  as  if  I 
were  inflicting  an  injury  on  my  bearers.  Why  should  they 
groan  and  stagger  under  my  weight,  when  I have  legs  of  my 
own? — and  yet,  I warrant  you,  nothing  would  please  them 
less  than  for  me  to  use  those  legs.  They  wear  pads  on  the 
shoulders,  on  which  rests  the  pole  to  which  the  palanquin  is 
suspended,  and  go  forward  at  a slow,  sliding  trot,  scarcely 
bending  their  knees  or  lifting  their  feet  from  the  ground. 
The  motion  is  agreeable,  yet  as  you  are  obliged  to  lie  on  your 
back,  you  have  a very  imperfect  view  of  the  objects  you  pass. 
You  can  travel  from  one  end  of  India  to  another  in  this  style, 
but  it  is  an  expensive  and  unsatisfactory  conveyance,  and  I 
made  as  little  use  of  it  as  possible,  in  my  subsequent  journeys. 

As  I was  borne  along,  I saw,  through  the  corners  of  my 
eyes,  that  we  passed  over  a moat  and  through  a heavy  stone 
gateway.  I then  saw  the  bottoms  of  a row  of  fluted  Grecian 
pillars — a church,  as  I afterwards  found — then  shops,  very 
much  in  the  European  style,  except  that  turbaned  Hindoos 
and  mitred  Parsees  stood  in  the  doors,  and  finally  my  bearers 
came  to  a halt  in  a wooden  verandah,  where  I was  received  by 
Mr.  Pallanjee,  the  host  of  the  British  Hotel.  I was  ushered 
up  lofty  flights  of  wooden  steps  to  the  third  story,  and  in* 
♦ stalled  in  a small  room,  overlooking  a wide  prospect  of  tiled 
roofs,  graced  here  and  there  with  a cocoa-nut  or  brab  palm. 
The  partitions  to  the  rooms  did  not  reach  the  ceiling ; there 


\PPEARANCE  OJ  BOMBAY. 


37 


were  no  glass  windows,  but  merely  blinds,  and  every  breeze 
that  came,  swept  through  the  whole  house.  The  servants  were 
mostly  Portuguese,  from  Goa,  but  as  India  is  especijilly  the 
country  of  servant  and  master,  every  -person  is  expected  to 
have  one  for  his  own  use.  I chose  a tall  Hindoo,  with  one  red 
streak  and  two  white  ones  (the  signs  of  caste)  on  his  forehead, 
who,  for  half  a rupee  daily,  performed  the  duties  of  guide, 
interpreter,  messenger  and  valet  de  chambre.  Nothing  can 
exceed  the  respect  shown  to  Europeans  by  the  native  ser- 
vants. They  go  far  beyond  the  Arab  and  Turkish  domestics 
of  the  East,  or  even  the  slaves  in  Egypt.  No  Russian  serf 
could  have  a greater  reverence  for  his  lord.  As  a natural 
consequence  of  this,  they  are  noted  for  their  fidelity;  the 
ayahs,  or  nurses,  are  said  to  be  the  best  in  the  world. 

Bombay,  as  a city,  presents  few  points  of  interest  to  a 
traveller.  It  is  wholly  of  modern  growth,  and  more  than 
half  European  in  its  appearance.  It  is  divided  into  two  parts 
— the  Fort,  as  it  is  called,  being  enclosed  within  the  old  Por- 
tuguese fortifications  and  surrounded  by  a moat.  It  is  about 
a mile  in  length,  extending  along  the  shore  of  the  bay. 
Outside  of  the  moat  is  a broad  esplanade,  beyond  which,  on 
the  northern  side,  a new  city  has  grown  up.  The  fortifica- 
tions are  useless  as  a means  of  defence,  the  water  of  the  moat 
breeds  mosquitos  and  fevers,  and  I do  not  understand  why 
the  walls  should  not  have  been  levelled,  long  since.  The  city 
within  the  Fort  is  crowded  to  excess.  Many  of  the  streets 
are  narrow,  dark  and  dirty,  and  as  the  houses  are  frequently  of 
wood,  the  place  is  exposed  to  danger  from  fire.  The  popula- 
tion and  trade  of  - Bombay  have  increased  so  much  within  the 
last  few  years,  that  this  keeping  up  of  old  defences  is  a great 


38 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


inconyenienco  So  far  are  tlie  old  practices  preserved,  that  at 
one  particular  gate,  where  there  was  a powder  magazine  twenty 
years  ago,  no  person  is  permitted  to  smoke.  Southward  of 
the  Fort  is  a tongue  of  land — formerly  the  island  of  Colaba, 
but  now  connected  by  a causeway — on  which  stands  the  light- 
house. To  the  north-west,  beyond  the  city,  rises  Malabar 
Hill,  a long,  low  height,  looking  upon  the  open  ocean,  and 
completely  covered  with  the  gardens  and  country-houses  of 
the  native  and  European  merchants. 

The  mainland  is  distant  from  Bombay  about  fifteen  miles, 
across  the  bay.  Steamers  run  daily  to  Panwell,  whence  there 
is  a mail-coach  to  Poonah,  the  old  Mahratta  capital,  about 
seventy  miles  distant.  Northward  of  the  Island  of  Bombay, 
lies  the  large  Island  of  Salsette,  which  is  connected  with  it  by 
two  causeways,  and  Salsette  has  lately  been  united  to  the 
mainland  by  a bridge,  the  strait,  at  the  northern  point  of  the 
island,  being  less  than  half  a mile  wide.  This  bridge  was 
built  by  the  Bailroad  Company,  who  have  already  finished 
thirty-five  miles  of  the  great  road  which  is  to  connect  Bom- 
bay and  Calcutta.  The  rails  were  laid  as  far  as  Tanna  at  the 
time  of  my  visit,  and  the  trains  commenced  running  shortly 
afterwards.  The  engineers  were  occupied  in  locating  that 
part  of  the  line  which  crosses  the  Ghauts,  and  which  is  the  most 
difficult  and  expensive  portion  of  the  road.  The  East  India 
Company  guarantees  5 per  cent,  annually  on  the  stock,  for  the 
period  of  twenty  years,  owing  to  which  encouragement,  (with- 
out which,  indeed,  the  undertaking  were  impossible,)  shares 
jvere  at  a premium. 

During  my  brief  stay  in  Bombay,  I made  some  acquaint- 
ances among  the  English  residents,  to  whom  I was  indebted 


AMERICAN  CONSULS  AND  RESIDENTS. 


39 


for  mucli  cordial  hospitality.  The  EDglish  in  India  are  said 
to  he  the  most  hospitable  people  in  the  world,  even  to  those 
who  bring  no  letters  of  introduction.  The  kindness  of  my 
friends,  and  especially  of  Capt.  K.  Baird  Smith,  of  the 
Bengal  Engineers,  supplied  me  with  letters  for  all  the  principal 
towns  in  the  interior,  so  that  I had  double  assurance  of  a 
friendly  reception.  There  were  no  American  merchants  in 
Bombay  at  the  time,  nor  even  a Consul.  Appointments  had 
been  made,  and  Consuls  had  gone  out,  but  none  of  them 
found  the  profits  of  the  office  equal  to  its  expenses.  The  last 
one  had  appointed  Mr.  Dossabhoy  Merwanjee,  one  of  the 
principal  Parsee  merchants,  his  agent,  but  the  latter  had  no 
authority  to  act  in  a Consular  capacity.  The  house  of  Dos- 
sabhoy Merwanjee  & Co.,  however,  is  actively  engaged  in 
American  trade,  most  of  the  vessels  which  come  out  from  our 
ports  being  consigned  to  it.  I was  indebted  to  the  members  of 
the  firm  for  much  kindness.  The  only  American  residents  were 
some  missionaries,  who  have  established  a school  and  church, 
and  a Boston  ice  merchant,  who  was  a man  of  some  impor- 
tance in  such  a climate.  The  ice  was  preserved  in  a large 
stone  rotunda,  and  sold  at  the  rate  of  four  annas  (12  cents) 
the  pound.  The  consumption  is  increasing,  much  use  of  it 
being  now  made  by  the  physicians,  and  with  the  best  effect. 

My  good  fortune  in  making  the  acquaintance  of  Dossabhoy 
Merwanjee,  and  other  members  of  the  celebrated  Lowjee 
Family,  to  which  he  belongs,  gave  me  some  insight  into  native 
society  here — an  imperfect  experience,  it  is  true,  but  enough 
to.  satisfy  me  that  in  few  of  the  English  works  on  India 
which  I have  read,  has  justice  been  done  to  the  character  of 
the  native  population.  The  Parsees,  .especially,  form  acorn- 


40 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


munity  distinguished  for  its  intelligence,  enterprise  and  public 
spirit.  It  would  be  no  exaggeration  to  say  that  more  than 
half  the  wealth  of  Bombay  is  in  the  hands  of  this  class.  Sir 
Jamsetjee  Jeejeebhoy,  the  Parsee  knight,  presents  one  of  the 
most  striking  examples  of  commercial  success  to  be  found  in 
the  history  of  any  country.  This  gentleman,  whose  splendid 
benevolence  has  imperishably  connected  his  name  with  his 
native  city,  was  the  architect  of  his  own  fortune.  By  pru- 
dence, economy  and  intelligence  he  rose  from  one  success  to 
another,  till  at  present  his  fortune  is  estimated  at  three  crores 
of  rupees  ($15,000,000.)  He  has  given  away  in  charities  of 
various  kinds  upwards  of  $2,000,000,  and  scarcely  a day 
passes  without  recording  some  further  evidence  of  his  gene- 
rosity. Among  other  works  which  owe  their  existence  to 
him — and  for  which  he  was  knighted  by  the  Queen,  being  the 
first  native  who  ever  received  that  distinction — are  the 
Hospital  which  bears  his  name,  the  Causeway  from  Bombay 
Island  to  Salsette  (called  Lady  Jamsetjee’s  Causeway),  and 
the  Aqueduct  for  supplying  the  city  of  Poonah  with  water. 
I had  a glimpse  of  him  one  evening,  as  his  carriage  passed  me 
in  the  street : he  was  then  verging  upon  his  eightieth  year, 
and  very  infirm.  His  eldest  son,  Cursetjee,  inherits  his  en- 
terprise and  boldness,  and  possesses  a large  fortune  of  his  own 
making.  Another  of  his  sons  has  distinguished  himself  as 
a Persian  scholar,  and  has  published  a work  on  the  Era  of 
Zoroaster. 

Dr.  Bhawoo  Dajee,  a distinguished  Hindoo  physician 
kindly  accompanied  me  to  Sir  Jamsetjee’s  town  residence,  a 
large  and  elegant  mansion  within  the  fort.  The  old  gentle- 
man was  absent,  but  we  were  received  by  his  son  Sorabjee, 


FAITH  AND  CUSTOMS  OF  THE  PARSEE8. 


41 


who  inquired  after  Mr.  Charles  Norton,  of  Cambridge,  and 
showed  me  a North  American  Review^  containing  Mr  N.’a 
biography  of  Sir  Jamsetjee.  The  residence  is  very  elegantly 
furnished,  in  a style  combining  European  comfort  with  Oriental 
display.  Portraits  of  the  different  members  of  the  family  occu- 
pied the  walls,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  principal  saloon  stood  a 
splendid  testimonial,  in  wrought  silver,  three  feet  high,  pre- 
sented to  Sir  Jamsetjee  by  three  of  the  Bombay  merchants. 

The  Parsees  settled  on  the  Malabar  Coast  about  eight 
centuries  ago,  after  their  expulsion  from  Persia.  They  are 
as  is  well  known,  followers  of  Zoroaster,  recognizing  one 
Good  and  one  Evil  Principle,  who  contend  for  the  mastery  of 
the  Universe.  They  worship  the  sun,  as  the  representative 
of  God,  fire  in  all  its  forms,  and  the  sea.  Their  temples  con- 
tain no  images,  but  only  the  sacred  fire,  and  though  they  have 
fixed  days  for  the  performance  of  various  rites,  they  repeat 
their  prayers  every  morning,  soon  after  sunrise.  The  dead 
are  neither  buried  nor  burned,  but  exposed  to  the  air  within 
a walled  enclosure,  on  the  summit  of  a hill.  The  bodies  of 
the  rich  are  protected  by  a wire  screen,  until  wasted  away,  but 
those  of  the  poor  are  soon  devoured  by  birds  of  prey.  The 
children  are  generally  married  at  from  two  to  five  years  of 
age,  and  brought  up  together,  until  of  a proper  age  to  assume 
the  duties  of  married  life.  Most  of  the  marriages  are  cele- 
brated in  the  winter  season,  and  the  streets  continually  re- 
sounded with  the  music  of  the  bridal  processions.  First  came 
a string  of  palanquins  and  carriages,  filled  with  children  of 
both  sexes — and  very  beautiful  are  the  Parsee  children — clad 
in  silk  bespangled  with  gold,  and  with  pearl  and  emerald 
ornaments  in  their  ears.  Then  a band  of  native  musicians, 


42 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


generally  playing  “ Lucy  Long,”  or  “ Carry  me  back,”  &c. ; 
after  them  the  bridal  dowry,  covered  with  massive  extinguish 
ers  of  silver,  and  the  procession  was  always  closed  by  a con< 
course  of  women,  whose  loose  floating  mantles  of  scarlet, 
crimson,  orange,  yellow  and  purple  silk,  gleamed  in  the  sun, 

“ Like  tulip  beds,  of  different  shape  and  dyes, 

Bending  beneath  the  invisible  west-wind’s  sighs.” 

My  friend  Cursetjee  Merwanjee,  accompanied  me  one 
afternoon  in  a drive  around  the  environs  of  Bombay.  After 
passing  the  esplanade,  which  is  thickly  dotted  with  the  tents 
of  the  military  and  the  bamboo  cottages  of  the  officers,  we 
entered  the  outer  town,  inhabited  entirely  by  the  natives. 
The  houses  are  two  or  three  stories  in  height,  with  open  wood- 
en verandahs  in  front,  many  of  which  have  a dark,  mellow  old 
look,  from  the  curiously  carved  posts  and  railings  of  black 
wood  which  adorn  them.  Mixed  with  the  houses  are  groups 
of  the  beautiful  cocoa-palm,  which  rise  above  the  roofs  and 
hang  their  feathery  crowns  over  the  crowded  highway.  Out- 
side of  the  town  hall  is  shade  and  the  splendor  of  tropical 
bloom.  The  roads  are  admirable,  and  we  rolled  smoothly 
along  in  the  cool  twilight  of  embowered  cocoa,  brab  and  date 
palms,  between  whose  pillared  trunks  the  afternoon  sun  poured 
streams  of  broad  golden  light.  The  crimson  sagittaria 
flaunted  its  flame-like  leaves  on  the  terraces;  a variety  of 
the  acacia  hung  thick  with  milky,  pendulous  blossoms,  and 
every  gateway  disclosed  an  avenue  of  urns  leading  up  to  the 
verandah  of  some  suburban  palace,  all  overladen  with  gor- 
geous southern  flowers.  We  rode  thus  for  miles  around  and 
over  Malabar  HiU,  and  along  the  shores  of  the  Indian  Ocean, 


TAX  ON  PALM-TRRES. 


43 


until  the  hills  of  Salsette,  empurpled  hy  the  sunset,  shone  in 
the  distance  like  the  mountains  of  fairy  land. 

I had  thought  the  Government  of  Egypt  despotic,  for 
taxing  the  poor  Nuhias  a piastre  and  a-half  (7^  cents)  an- 
nually for  each  of  their  date-trees,  hut  the  East  India  Com- 
pany exacts  from  one  to  three  rupees  (50  cents  to  $1.50)  on 
each  tree  according  to  its  quality.  As  the  principal  produce 
of  the  trees  is  tar%  a kind  of  palm  wine,  used  only  by  the 
natives,  such  a tax  appeared  enormous,  and  gave  color  to  what 
I had  already  heard,  that  the  resources  of  the  country  are 
mercilessly  drained  by  the  Company,  for  the  purpose  of  car- 
rying out  its  expensive  system  of  annexation,  and  at  the  same 
time  paying  the  regular  yearly  dividend  to  the  stockholders. 
However,  I had  determined,  on  entering  India,  to  clear  my 
mind  of  all  preconceived  opinions,  and  to  judge  of  the  effects 
of  British  rule  as  impartially  as  possible.  I shall  therefore 
draw  no  conclusion  at  present  from  this  single  instance  of 
oppression. 

In  the  course  of  our  excursion  we  visited  a Hindoo  Tem- 
ple on  the  western  shore  of  the  island-  It  is  dedicated  to  the 
five  principal  divinities,  each  of  whom  has  his  separate  shrine. 
We  were  not  permitted  to  go  further  than  the  doors,  but  the 
attendants  removed  the  hangings  and  showed  us  the  figures  of 
the  gods.  Their  names  were  in  the  Mahratta  language,  and  I 
do  not  remember  the  Sanscrit  appellation  of  any  except  Maha- 
deo.  The  temple  occupied  the  summit  of  a small  hill,  ana 
was  approached  by  ghauts,  or  flights  of  steps,  of  hewn  stone. 
Near  it  there  was  a much  older  shrine,  with  an  image  in  a 
dark  recess.  A tiger,  rudely  sculptured,  sat  in  the  outer 
porch,  facing  it.  Several  bells  hung  from  the  roof,  and  each 


44 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


of  the  natives  who  accompanied  us  rang  one  of  these,  both  on 
passing  in,  and  out. 

Dr.  Bhawoo  Dajee  took  me  to  visit  the  Jamsetjee  Jee* 
jeebhoy  Hospital,  the  name  of  which  declares  its  founder.  It 
is  a one-story  stone  building,  in  the  Gothic  style,  and  divided 
into  a number  of  wards,  where  the  destitute  Christian,  J ewishj 
Hindoo,  Parsee,  or  Mahometan  invalid  is  taken  in  and  well 
cared  for.  There  were  about  three  hundred  patients  at  the 
time  of  my  visit.  The  hospital  is  very  clean,  kept  in  excel- 
lent order,  and  the  patients  appeared  to  be  enjoying  as  much 
comfort  as  was  possible,  in  their  condition.  Opposite  the 
hospital  is  the  Grant  Medical  College,  an  excellent  institution, 
which  was  then  attended  by  about  thirty  native  students. 
Bhawoo  Dajee  himself  is  a graduate  of  this  College,  where 
he  received  the  gold  medal,  and  was  besides  awarded  a prize 
of  six  hundred  rupees  for  an  essay  on  Infanticide.  As  a phy- 
sician and  surgeon  he  is  among  the  first  of  his  class  in  Bom- 
bay, and  in  that  refinement  and  liberality  which  distinguishes 
the  gentleman  and  the  scholar,  he  would  be  a noted  man  any 
where.  I esteem  it  a particular  good  fortune  which  brought 
me  to  his  acquaintance. 


CHAPTER  III. 

THE  C A V E-T  EMPLES  OF  ELEPHANTA. 

Hindoo  and  Egyptian  Antiquities— The  Hindoo  Faith— The  Trinity— A Trip  to  Ele- 
phanta — Scenery  of  the  Bay — Landing  on  the  Island — Front  View  of  Ihe  Cave* 
Temple — Portuguese  Vandalism — The  Colossal  Trinity — The  Head  of  Brahma — 
Vishnu— Shiva— Remarkable  Individuality  of  the  Heads — The  Guardians  of  the 
Shrine — The  Columns  of  Elephanta — Their  Type  in  Nature— Intrinsic  Dignity  of  all 
Religions — Respect  for  the  Ancient  Faiths— The  Smaller  Chambers  of  the  Temple— 
The  Shrine  of  the  Sterile- Tamarind  Trees— Smaller  Cave-Temples — Return  to 
Bombay  Island — Sunset  in  the  Botanic  Garden. 

While  in  Bombay,  I took  a step  further  back  into  the  past, 
than  ever  in  all  my  previous  experience.  In  Egypt,  you  are 
brought  face  to  face  with  periods  so  remote,  that  they  lie  more 
than  half  within  the  realm  of  Fable;  yet  there  the  groping 
antiquarian  has  pierced  the  mystery,  and  leads  you  down  from 
dynasty  to  dynasty,  on  the  * crumbling  steps  of  hieroglyphic 
lore.  But  in  India, — the  cradle,  as  many  believe,  of  the 
Human  Race — we  have  no  such  helps,  and  while  we  gaze 
upon  the  tokens  of  a faith  which  was  no  doubt,  pre-existent 
to  that  of  the  Pharaohs,  science  sits  down  baffled  and  leaves 
us  to  wander  in  the  dark.  No  Wilkinson  or  Champollion 
writes  on  the  altars  of  the  gods:  “B.  C. — so  and  so  much.” 
The  whole  backward  vista  of  Time  is  thrown  open,  and  we  are 


46 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


free  to  retrace  the  ages,  even  to  the  days  when  there  were 
giants.  I no  longer  marvel  at  any  of  the  ancient  faiths ; I 
only  wonder  that  those  vast,  strange  and  gorgeous  systems  of 
mythology  ever  should  have  disappeared  from  the  religions  of 
the  world,  while  such  types  of  them  remain  in  existence. 

The  Hindoo  faith,  in  its  original  and  pure  form,  was  a 
consistent  monotheism,  and  no  doubt  is  still  so  understood  by 
the  more  intellectual  of  its  professors.  The  parent  Deity, 
Brehm,  was  an  invisiljle  and  Omnipotent  God,  the  maker  of 
Heaven  and  Earth,  and  like  the  Divinity  of  the  Buddhists, 
too  great  for  mortal  comprehension.  The  three  deities  who 
sprang  from  him  may  he  regarded  rather  as  personifications 
of  his  attributes  than  as  distinct  personalities.  These  deities, 
who  form  the  Trimurti^  or  Hindoo  Trinity,  are  Brahma,  the 
Creator,  Yishnu,  the  Preserver,  and  Shiva,  the  Destroyer. 
Among  the  emblems  of  the  latter  is  a new-born  infant,  show- 
ing that  Life  is  continually  reproduced  from  Death.  From 
these  three  spring  a host  of  inferior  deities,  who,  with  their 
progeny,  amount  to  the  number  of  thirty-three  millions,  of 
whom  three  millions  are  evil,  and  the  remainder  good.  Here 
the  preponderance  of  Good  over  Evil  in  the  government  of  the 
world,  and  consequently  the  beneficence  of  the  ruling  Deity, 
is  strikingly  acknowledged.  The  original  faith  has  greatly 
degenerated,  as  all  the  old  religions  have,  and  among  the 
ignorant  millions  exists  only  in  the  most  extraordinary  super- 
stitions and  the  grossest  forms  of  idolatry ; but  no  one  can 
deny  the  simple  grandeur  of  its  first  conception. 

However,  as  I am  a traveller,  and  not  a theologian,  let  me 
return  to  the  subject,  which  is  my  visit  to  the  Cave-temples 
of  Elephanta.  These  celebrated  remains  are  upon  the  Island 


SCENERY  OF  THE  BAY. 


4T 


of  Elephanta,  in  tlie  baj,  and  about  seven  miles  distant  from 
Bombay.  I was  accompanied  by  the  captain  of  an  American 
bark.  We  engaged  a bunder-boat,  a craft  with  a small  cabin, 
something  like  the  kangia  of  the  Nile,  embarked  at  the 
Apollo  pier,  and  went  up  the  bay  with  the  flood  tide.  We 
passed  the  fort  and  floated  along  the  shore  as  far  as  Mazagaun, 
where  the  wind  favored  us  for  a run  out  to  the  island.  The 
scenery  of  the  bay  is  beautiful,  the  different  islands  rising 
from  the  water  in  bold  hills  covered  with  vegetation,  while  the 
peaks  of  the  Malabar  Ghauts  cut  their  sharp  outlines  against 
the  sky,  on  the  opposite  side.  Butcher’s  Island,  which  lies 
between  Bombay  and  Elephanta,  is  comparatively  low  and  flat, 
and  has  a barren  appearance,  but  it  contains  a number  of 
European  bungalows,  and  seems  to  be  a favorite  place  of  resi- 
dence. Elephanta,  on  the  contrary,  which  is  about  a mile  in 
length,  is  lofty,  and  covered  with  palm  and  tamarind  trees. 
Its  form  is  very  beautiful,  the  summit  being  divided  into  two 
peaks  of  unequal  height. 

The  water  is  shallow  on  the  western  side,  and  as  we  ap- 
proached several  natives  appeared  on  the  beach,  who  waded 
out  two  by  two,  and  carried  us  ashore  on  their  shoulders.  A 
well-worn  foot-path  pointed  out  the  way  up  the  hill,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  we  stood  on  the  little  terrace  between  the  two 
peaks,  and  in  front  of  the  temple.  The  house  of  the  sergeant 
who  keeps  guard  over  it  still  intervened  between  us  and  the 
entrance,  and  before  passing  it  I stood  for  some  time  looking 
across  to  Bombay  and  Salsette,  enchanted  with  the  beauty  of 
the  prospect  before  me.  More  than  half  the  charm,  I found, 
lay  in  the  rich,  tropical  foliage  of  the  foreground. 

Turning,  I passed  around  the  screen  of  some  banana  trees 


48  INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 

and  under  the  boughs  of  a large  tamarind.  The  original 
entrace  to  the  temple  is  destroyed,  so  that  it  is  impossible  to 
tell  whether  there  was  a solid  front  and  doorway,  as  in  the 
Egyptian  rock-temples,  or  whether  the  whole  interior  stood 
open  as  now.  The  front  view  of  Elephanta  is  very  picturesque. 
The  rock  is  draped  with  luxuriant  foliage  and  wild  vines, 
brilliant  with  many-colored  blossoms,  heightening  the  myste- 
rious gloom  of  the  pillared  hall  below,  at  the  farthest  ex- 

/ 

tremity  of  which  the  eye  dimly  discerns  the  colossal  outlines 
of  the  tri-formed  god  of  the  temple.  The  chambers  on  each 
side  of  the  grand  hall  are  open  to  the  day,  so  that  all  its 
sculptures  can  be  examined  without  the  aid  of  torches.  The 
rows  of  rock-hewn  pillars  which  support  the  roof,  are  sur- 
mounted by  heavy  architraves,  from  which  hang  the  capitals 
and  shattered  fragments  of  some  whose  bases  have  been 
entirely  broken  away.  The  Portuguese,  in  their  zeal  for  de- 
stroying heathen  idols,  planted  cannon  before  the  entrance  of 
the  cave,  and  destroyed  many  of  the  columns  and  sculptured 
panels,  but  the  faces  of  the  colossal  Trinity  have  escaped 
mutilation. 

This,  the  Trimurii^  is  a grand  and  imposing  piece  of 
sculpture,  not  unworthy  of  (the  best  period  of  Egyptian  art. 
It  reminded  me  of  the  colossal  figures  at  Aboo-Simbel,  though 
with  less  of  serene  grace  and  beauty.  It  is  a triple  bust,  and 
with  the  richly-adorned  mitres  that  crown  the  heads,  rises  to 
the  height  of  twelve  feet.  The  central  head,  which  fronts 
the  entrance,  is  that  of  Brahma,  the  Creator,  whose  large, 
calm  features,  are  settled  in  the  repose  of  conscious  power  as 
if  creation  were  to  him  merely  an  action  of  the  will,  and  not 
an  effort.  On  his  right  hand  is  Vishnu,  the  Preserver,  re- 


THE  COLOSSAL  TRINITY. 


49 


presented  in  profile.  His  features  are  soft  and  feminine,  fall 
of  mildness  and  benignity,  and  are  almost  Grecian  in  their 
outlines,  except  the  under  lip,  which  is  remarkably  thick  and 
full.  The  hair  falls  in  ordered  ringlets  from  under  a cap, 
something  between  a helmet  and  a mitre.  The  right  arm, 
which  is  much  mutilated,  is  lifted  to  the  shoulder,  and  from 
the  half-closed  hand  droops  a lotus-blossom.  The  third  mem. 
her  of  the  Trinity,  the  terrible  Shiva,  the  Destroyer,  is  on  the 
left  of  Brahma,  and,  like  Vishnu,  his  head  is  turned  so  as  to 
present  the  profile.  His  features  are  totally  different  from 
the  other  two.  His  forehead  is  stern,  ridged  at  the  eyebrows ; 
his  nose  strongly  aquiline,  and  his  lips  slightly  parted,  so  as 
to  show  his  teeth  set,  with  an  expression  of  fierce  cruelty  and 
malignity.  A cobra  twists  around  his  arm  and  hand,  which 
grasps  the  si^^e  by  the  neck  and  holds  it  on  high,  with  hood 
expanded,  ready  to  strike  the  deadly  blow. 

Nothing  astonished  me  more,  in  this  remarkable  group,  than 
the  distinct  individuality  of  each  head  With  the  exception 
of  the  thick  under  lip,  which  is  common  to  all  three,  the 
faces  are  those  of  different  races.  Brahma  approaches  the 
Egyptian  and  Vishnu  the  Grecian  type,  while  Shiva  is  not 
unlike  the  Mephistopheles  of  the  modern  German  school. 
The  group  stands  in  an  excavated  recess,  or  shrine,  at  the 
entrance  of  which,  on  each  side,  are  two  colossal  statues. 
They  are  more  rudely  executed,  and  the  faces  exhibit  a grosser 
type,  the  nose  being  broad  and  slightly  flattened,  and  the  lips 
thick  and  projecting.  The  hand  holds  the  lotus-flower,  and 
the  eyes  are  closed,  but  the  expression  of  the  face  is  that  of 
happy  reverie  rather  than  sleep.  Had  the  temple  been  Budd- 
hist, I should  have  said  that  they  were  meditating  their  final 


3 


50 


INDIA,  CHINA.  AND  JAPAN. 


beatific  absorption  into  tbe  Divine  Essence.  The  jame  figures 
are  seen  in  other  parts  of  the  temple,  and  their  aspect 
perfectly  harmonizes  with  the  symbols  introduced  into  the 
purely  ornamental  parts  of  its  architecture. 

This  reminds  me  of  the  columns  supporting  the  roof, 
which  were  unlike  any  others  I had  seen.  The  lower  part  is 
square,  resting  on  a plinth,  but  at  about  half  the  height  it 
becomes  circular  and  fluted — or  rather  filleted,  the  compart- 
ments having  a plane  and  not  a concave  surface.  The  capital 
is  a flattened  sphere,  of  nearly  double  the  diameter  of  the 
shaft,  having  a narrow  disc,  with  fluted  edges,  between  it  and 
the  architrave.  I knew  these  columns  must  have  some  type 
in  Nature,  and  puzzled  myself  to  find  it.  On  visiting  one  of 
the  smaller  temples  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  island,  the  re- 
semblance flashed  upon  me  at  once — it  was  the  poppy-head. 
The  globular  capital  and  its  low,  fluted  crown,  are  copied 
almost  without  change  from  the  plant,  and  these  two  symbols 
— the  poppy  and  the  lotus — ^with  the  closed  eyelids  and  placid 
faces  of  the  colossal  guardians,  give  the  whole  temple  an  air 
of  mystic  and  enchanted  repose.  One  involuntarily  walks 
through  its  dim  and  hushed  aisles  with  a softer  step,  and 
speaks,  if  he  must  speak,  in  an  undertone. 

There  is  something  in  every  form  of  religion  worthy  of 
general  respect ; and  he  who  does  not  feel  this,  can  neither 
understand  nor  appreciate  the  Art  which  sprang  from  *he 
ancient  Faiths.  Our  teachers  of  religion  speak  with  sincere 
and  very  just  horror  and  contempt  of  all  forms  of  idolatry ; 
yet,  under  pain  of  their  anathemas,  I dare  assert,  that  he  who 
can  revile  Osiris  and  Amun-Re,  is  unworthy  to  behold  the 
wonders  of  Thebes.  The  Christian  need  not  necessarily  be  an 


RESPECT  FOR  THE  ANCIENT  FAITHS. 


51 


iconoclast:  nay  more,  his  very  faith,  in  its  perfect  charity 
and  its  boundless  love,  obliges  him  to  respect  the  shrines 
where  the  mighty  peoples  of  the  ancient  world  have  bowed 
and  worshipped.  Besides,  there  is  Truth,  however  dim  and 
eclipsed,  behind  all  these  outward  symbols.  Even  the  naked 
and  savage  Dinkas  of  Central  Africa  worship  trees ; and  so  do 
I.  The  Parsees  worship  the  sun,  as  the  greatest  visible  mani- 
festation of  the  Deity;  and  I assure  you,  I have  felt  very 
much  inclined  to  do  the  same,  when  He  and  I were  alone  in 
the  Desert.  But  let  not  the  reader,  therefore,  or  because  I 
respect  the  feeling  of  worship,  when  expressed  in  other  forms 
than  my  own,  think  me  a Pagan. 

The  walls  of  the  great  hall  of  the  temple  of  Elephanta, 
are  divided  into  tablets,  or  compartments,  each  of  which  con- 
tains, as  a central  figure,  the  colossal  statue  of  some  god,  sur- 
rounded by  a host  of  inferior  deities.  Few  of  these  have 
escaped  the  fanatical  fury  of  the  Portuguese,  but  suflScient 
remains  to  show  the  bold  and  masculine  character  of  the  art 
which  produced  them.  The  smaller  figures  are  introduced 
above  and  at  the  sides  of  the  central  god,  and  some  of  the 
tablets  have  a striking  resemblance  to  pictures  of  the  old 
Italian  masters,  representing  a saint  surrounded  by  a cloud 
of  cherubs.  In  the  absence  of  all  inscriptions,  it  is  impos- 
sible to  determine  at  what  time  the  temple  was  excavated. 
The  architecture,  judged  by  its  style  alone,  appears  to  be 
the  antecedent  of  the  Egyptian,  which  would  then  represent  its 
perfect  development,  modified  somewhat  by  being  transplanted 
to  a different  soil.  But  I believe  that  most  ethnographers 
now  consider  that  the  ancient  Egyptians  and  Hindoos  are 


52 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 

kindred  branches  of  one  stock,  whose  seat  is  to  be  looked  for 
somewhere  in  Central  Asia. 

The  side  chambers  of  the  temple  are  much  smaller,  and 
the  walls  are  covered  in  the  same  manner,  with  sculptured 
tablets.  Some  of  the  figures  have  been  recently  smeared  with 
red  paint,  a sign  that  they  are  still  worshipped  by  some  of 
the  Hindoo  sects.  At  the  foot  of  a flight  of  steps  which 
leads  to  the  chambers  on  the  left  of  the  grand  hall,  two 
curious  figures  of  dogs  seated  on  their  hind  legs,  which  have 
been  very  lately  excavated,  are  erected  on  pedestals.  It 
requires  an  experienced  antiquarian  to  tell  whether  they  are 
dogs,  lions,  or  dolphins.  There  are  three  or  four  small  in- 
closed apartments  resembling  the  adyta  of  the  Egyptian 
temples.  In  the  centre  of  each  is  a low  pedestal,  or  platform, 
upon  which  stands  a stone  about  three  feet  high,  with  a round- 
ed top — the  Lingam,  which  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  as  well 
as  common  of  the  Hindoo  symbols.  One  of  these,  in  particu- 
far,  is  still  in  great  repute  among  the  natives,  and  is  resorted 
to  by  the  Hindoo  women,  who  seat  themselves  upon  it  for  a 
certain  length  of  time,  as  a cure  for  barrenness.  I was  told 
that  an  English  lady  of  Bombay,  whose  marriage  had  not  had 
the  desired  result,  was  induced  to  try  the  experiment,  which, 
to  her  great  surprise,  was  successful. 

After  spending  some  time  in  the  larger  temple,  two  native 
boys  showed  us  the  way  to  the  two  smaller  ones,  which  are 
higher  up  the  hill,  on  its  eastern  side.  Other  visitors  had 
come  in  the  mean  time,  and  a company  of  sailors  weie  em- 
ployed in  knocking  down  the  pods  of  the  tamarind  trees. 
The  husk  incloses  a thick  paste,  wrapped  around  the  seeds, 
with  an  intensely  acid,  but  agreeable  taste.  From  the  gap 


THE  SMALLER  TEMPLES. 


53 


between  the  two  peaks  of  tbe  islands,  we  looked  down  into  a 
lovely  little  valley  on  the  opposite  side,  gradually  widening  to 
the  water,  near  which  was  a native  hamlet.  I longed  to  pitch 
my  tent  in  one  of  its  palm-groves,  and  to  spend  a week  in 
studying  the  strange  gods  in  the  caverns  above. 

The  smaller  temples  have  been  much  mutilated.  The 
entrances  are  nearly  filled  up  with  rubbish,  and  the  inner 
chambers  are  now  the  abodes  of  the  jackal  and  the  serpent. 
They  were  too  dark  to  be  properly  seen  without  torches,  which 
we  had  not,  but  I could  perceive  that  many  of  them  contained 
the  upright  stone,  and  the  usual  sculptured  tablets  on  the 
walls.  The  outer  courts  of  both  were  supported  by  elegant 
poppy-headed  pillars,  a few  of  which  have  escaped  destruction 
Excavation  would  no  doubt  reveal  much  that  is  now  hidden, 
but  the  Governnment  has  no  taste  for  such  things,  and  there 
are  few  archaeologists  in  Bombay.  The  most  that  has  been 
done  is  to  build  a cottage  and  station  a sergeant  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  great  temple,  in  order  to  prevent  visitors  from 
injuring  the  sculptures. 

The  afternoon  shadows  were  growing  long  by  this  time, 
admonishing  us  to  return.  The  wind  had  risen,  and  as  it  was 
not  entirely  favorable,  we  were  obliged  to  run  up  the  bay,  past 
a point  of  the  Island  of  Salsette,  before  we  could  make  a tack 
for  the  city.  Instead  of  going  on  to  Bombay,  however,  we 
landed  at  the  pier  of  Mazagaun,  and  drove  to  the  Botanic 
Garden,  near  the  Governor’s  residence,  at  Parell.  The  garden 
is  laid  out  with  great  taste,  and  filled  with  a variety  of  rare 
tropical  trees,  among  which  are  several  superb  Brazilian  palms. 
I there  saw  the  first  banyan-tree,  but  the  specimen  was  too 
young  to  justify  its  fame.  The  flaming  blossoms  of  the 


54 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


azalias,  pelargoniums  and  sagittarias  first  deepened  in  liue, 
and  then  grew  dusky  and  indistinct  in  the  fading  flush  of 
sunset,  as  I wandered  through  the  palmy  alleys,  breathing  of 
“nard  and  cassia,”  and  the  voluptuous  Persian  rose.  But 
the  short  southern  twilight  sank  away,  and  I rode  hack  to 
Bombay,  with  the  silvery,  meteoric  lustre  of  the  zodiacal 
light  gleaming  over  my  path. 


CHA.PTER  IV. 


A NAUTCH  AMONG  THE  PARSEES, 

New-Years  Day— A Tropical  Gift — A Parsoe  Buagalow— Our  Reception — Chewing  the 
Betel-Nut  -The  Nautch-Girls — Their  Dances— Supper — Prejudices  of  Caste— The 
Bengalee  Dance — A Gilded  Bridegroom— Piercing  Music— Ship-Building  in  Bombay 
-Education  of  the  Natives — Their  Appeals  to  Parliament. 

The  morning  of  New-Year’s  Day,  1853,  dawned  clear  and 
beautiful.  Lord  Falkland,  Governor  of  the  Bombay  Presi- 
dency, 'gave  a splendid  ball  at  his  residence  at  Parell,  on  the 
previous  evening.  The  simple  ceremony  of  calling  upon  him 
would  have  insured  me  an  invitation ; but  as  I carelessly  neg- 
lected to  do  this,  and  therefore  missed  the  ball,  I accepted  the 
more  readily  an  invitation  to  attend  a navtch  at  the  country 
residence  of  my  Parsee  friends,  on  the  following  evening.  A 
servant  came  to  my  room  early  on  New-Year’s  morning,  with 
a tray  heaped  with  fruit,  a large  bunch  of  roses,  and  a polite 
note  from  Dossabhoy  Merwanjee  Wadya  and  his  associates, 
containing  the  compliments  of  the  season,  and  an  invitation 
to  be  at  Parell  at  half-past  nine  o’clock.  I could  not  help 
being  struck  with  the  difference  between  New-Year  in  Bom- 
bay and  in  New  York  While  my  friends  were  making  theii 


56 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


round  of  calls,  muffled  in  furs,  and  with  red  noses  and  froslj 
hands,  I was  sitting  on  an  open  verandah,  as  lightly  clad  as 
possible,  looking  down  on  the  palms  and  papayas  in  the  gar- 
dens below,  and  listening  to  the  songs  of  birds  gathered  on 
all  the  house-tops,  my  New-Year’s  gift  consisting  of  a pum- 
melow  (a  fruit  resembling  the  shaddock,  but  of  much  finer 
flavor),  a pile  of  oranges  and  golden  bananas,  and  a pawn^ 
for  chewing,  wrapped  in  a gilded  betel-leaf. 

Three  countrymen — all  who  were  in  Bombay,  with  the 
exception  of  the  Missionaries — were  also  invited,  as  well  as 
two  Englishmen,  but  the  remainder  of  the  guests  were  native, 
Parsee  and  Hindoo.  A pleasant  drive  of  five  miles  brought 
us  to  the  country-house,  which  was  built  on  land  granted  to 
the  family  by  the  East  India  Company,  on  account  of  the 
services  they  have  rendered  as  ship-builders.  It  was  a spa- 
cious one-story  bungalow,  and  brilliantly  lighted  up  for  the 
occasion  with  hanging  lamps  of  cocoa-nut  oil,  which  gives  out 
a very  delicate  and  pleasant  perfume  while  burning.  We 
were  ushered  into  a hall,  around  the  sides  of  which  were 
couches  made  in  imitation  of  sofas,  and  not  so  lazy  and  luxu- 
rious as  the  Turkish  divan.  The  floor  was  carpeted,  and  the 
musicians  and  nautch-girls  were  seated  in  a group  in  one 
corner. 

Dossabhoy,  and  our  friends,  Hirjeebhoy,  the  head  builder 
in  the  Bombay  dock-yard,  Jamsetjee  and  Cursetjee,  received 
us  cordially,  and  immediately  on  taking  our  seats,  bunches  of 
fragrant  roses  were  presented  to  us,  over  which  fresh  rose- water 
was  sprinkled  from  a silver  vase.  Another  servant  then  appeared 
with  a tray  of  pawns^  which  the  Parsees  were  already  chewing 
vigorously.  Indeed,  you  rarely  see  a native,  of  whatever 


CHEWING  THE  BETEL-NUT. 


57 


3ondition,  without  a pawn  in  his  mouth.  They  are  composed 
of  chips  of  betel-nut,  cardamum  seeds  and  betel-leaf,  to  which 
some  add  lime  made  from  mussel-shells.  In  order  to  be  like 
the  rest,  I commenced  chewing,  and  found  the  taste  very  much 
like  sassafras,  but  more  astringent.  It  is  by  no  means  dis- 
agreeable, and  must  he  rather  conducive  to  health  than  other- 
wise, or  it  would  not  have  become  a universal  custom.  Both 
the  leaf  and  nut  are  excellent  tonics.*  The  juice  only  is  swal- 
lowed, but  the  practice  of  chewing  makes  both  the  mouth  and 
teeth,  for  the  time,  of  a bright  red  color.  I was  quite  shocked 
on  landing,  to  see  so  many  natives  (as  I thought)  spitting 
blood. 

In  a short  time  the  musicians  had  finished  tuning  their 
instruments,  and  the  two  nautch-girls  (bayaderes)  took  their 
places  on  the  floor.  The  word  bayadere  is  a French  invention, 
and  is  unknown  in  India.  These  girls  were  about  tweny-five 
years  of  age,  small  in  stature,  dark-brown  in  complexion,  plain 
in  features,  and  inert  and  languid  in  expression.  They  were 
far  from  being  as  handsome  or  graceful  as  the  Almehs  who 
danced  for  us  in  the  temple  of  Luxor.  They  wore  full  robes 
of  a gay  color,  descending  nearly  to  the  ancle,  but  confined  by 
a broad  shawl  so  far  below  their  hips  as  to  restrict  the  motion 

* Prof  Johnston  says : “ On  those  who  are  accustomed  to  use  it,  the 
betel  produces  weak  but  continuous  and  sustained  exhilarating  effects. 
And  that  these  are  of  a most  agreeable  kind,  may  be  inferred  from  the 
very  extended  area  over  which  the  chewing  of  betel  prevails,  among 
Asiatic  nations.  In  the  damp  and  pestilent  regions  of  India,  where  th<* 
natives  live  upon  a spare  and  miserable  diet,  it  is  really  very  condur 
to  health.  Part  of  its  healthful  influence  in  fever-breeding  districts  _ 
probably  to  be  ascribed  to  the  pepper-leaf  which  is  chewed  along  with 
the  betel-nut.” 


3* 


58 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


of  their  feet.  They  had  also  shawls  around  thjir  heads, 
trowsers  of  red  silk,  and  slippers.  The  musicians  commenced 
singing  a melancholy,  monotonous  measure,  with  a lively  ac- 
companiment on  their  lutes.  The  girls  joined  in  the  singing, 
occasionally  lifting  their  arms  with  the  utmost  deliberation, 
or  slightly  shifting  the  position  of  their  feet.  Now  one  ad- 
vanced a few  steps  and  as  slowly  retreated,  now  the  other.  I 
never  saw  a dance  so  spiritless  and  inexpressive. 

Sonie  of  the  songs,  on  the  other  hand,  pleased  me  exceed- 
ingly. Less  wild  and  barbaric  than  the  Arab  chants,  they 
are  pervaded  with  the  same  expression  of  longing  and  of  love, 
and  though  sung  by  voices  which  were  occasionally  shrill  and 
harsh,  still  preserved  a touching  air  of  tenderness.  After 
witnessing  two  or  three  dances,  we  were  called  into  the  other 
room,  to  a collation  of  fruits  and  sweetmeats,  in  which  the 
Parsees  joined  us,  contrary  to  the  usual  custom  of  their  sect. 
This  restriction,  however,  does  not  seem  to  be  a part  of  their 
faith,  but  to  have  resulted  from  a long  residence  among  the 
Hindoos,  who  maintain  such  a religious  distinction  of  caste, 
that  to  the  Brahmin,  the  mere  touch  of  one  of  the  lower 
orders  is  defilement,  and  can  only  be  removed  by  bathing 
and  change  of  apparel.  The  Mussulmans  in  India  have 
adopted  the  same  notions,  and  will  neither  eat  with  Christians 
nor  drink  from  the  same  vessels. 

During  the  interval,  the  nautch-girls  made  a change  in  the 
tashion  of  their  dress,  by  binding  their  robes  in  such  a man- 
ner that  they  reached  only  to  the  knees,  and  giving  their 
turbans  a flattened  form,  like  those  worn  by  the  natives  of 
Bengal.  In  fact,  the  dance  which  succeeded  was  called  the 
Bengalee.  It  differed  little  from  the  preceding,  except  that 


THE  BENGALEE  DANCE 


59 


the  measure  was  more  animated,  and  the  languid  shuffling  of 
the  feet  done  in  somewhat  quicker  time.  The  song  which 
accompanied  it  was  translated  to  me,  and  ran  thus : “ My  be- 
loved Nabob,  take  me  to  Calcutta:  with  the  howdah  on  the 
elephant,  the  saddle  on  the  horse.”  This  is  the  style  of 
poetry  of  which  these  songs  are  usually  composed,  but  some 
of  them  cannot  be  so  safely  translated.  There  are  nautch- 
girls  who  have  a fame  among  the  natives  equal  to  that  of 
Taglioni  or  Ellsler  in  Europe,  and  who  are  paid  at  the  rate 
of  five  hundred  rupees  a night,  but  they  are  to  be  found  at 
the  Courts  of  the  native  sovereigns  in  Northern  India,  where 
the  nautches  are  got  up  on  a grand  scale. 

The  previous  evening,  on  my  way  home  from  the  Botanic 
Garden,  I met  a magnificent  marriage  procession  in  the  streets 
of  the  native  town.  First  came  a large  number  of  beautiful 
children  in  open  vehicles,  the  pearls  and  spangles  of  their 
dresses  glittering  in  the  light  of  torches,  which  were  borne 
on  long  poles,  and  waved  in  riotous  jubilee  to  the  sound  of 
the  music.  Behind  them  were  boys  in  jewelled  robes,  on 
horseback,  with  servants  holding  golden-fringed  umbrellas 
above  their  heads.  The  music — a piercing  medley  of  fifes, 
drums,  and  lutes  — came  next,  and  then  the  bridegroom, 
mounted  on  a white  horse.  He  was  a man  of  about  twenty, 
clad  in  splendid  robes  of  white  silk,  embroidered  with  gol(^. 
His  turban  gleamed  with  pearls,  and  his  cheeks  and  forehead 
were  covered  with  gold  leaf.  He  was  a living  El  Dorado,  but 
sat  so  grave  and  motionless  on  his  horse,  staring  straight 
before  him,  that  he  might  have  been  taken  for  a bedizened 
statue.  A servant,  holding  a silver  screen  resembling  a fan. 
walked  on  each  side  of  him,  and  behind  him  came  the  dowry, 


60 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


borne  on  men’s  heads.  It  was  contained  in  twenty  or  thirty 
miniature  houses,  arranged  so  as  to  form  a quadrangle,  with  a 
temple  in  the  centre. 

I passed  a number  of  houses  illuminated  for  marriage  fes- 
tivities,  and  from  one  of  them  there  came  the  sound  of  a flute 
more  shrill  and  piercing,  I have  no  doubt,  than  any  other 
flute  in  the  world.  Its  tones  were  so  intensely  shrill  as  to 
become  tangible.  They  were  shot  out  of  the  open  windows 
like  barbed  arrows,  and  whenever  any  one  struck  you  it  was 
followed  by  a keen  sense  of  pain.  They  flew  whistling  down 
the  street,  rattling  against  the  walls,  transfixing  all  civilized 
ears  and  torturing  all  susceptible  nerves.  I shudder,  even 
now,  to  think  of  the  smarts  I endured  while  passing  that 
house. 

The  Wadya  family,  to  which  my  host  belonged,  have  been 
for  more  than  half  a century  the  ship-builders  of  Bombay. 
The  vicinity  of  the  teak  forests  has  occasioned  the  building  of 
several  ships  of  the  line  for  the  British  Navy  in  the  dock- 
yard there.  The  first  of  these,  the  Mindcn^  has  been  in 
service  for  nearly  fifty  years,  and  her  condition  still  attests 
the  excellence  of  her  construction.  It  was  between  her 
decks,  while  lying  off  Fort  McHenry,  that  Francis  Key  wrote 
our  “ Star-spangled  Banner.”  The  present  head-builder, 
Hirjeebhoy  Merwanjee,  had  on  the  stocks  at  the  time  of  my 
visit,  two  steamships  of  eighteen  hundred  tons  each.  He  was 
nearly  three  years  in  England,  studying  his  profession,  and 
has  published  a work  in  English,  giving  his  views  of  English 
institutions  and  society.  The  Government  has  done  much 
for  the  natives  in  the  establishment  of  such  institutions  as  the 
Grant  Medical  College,  the  Elphinstone  Institution,  and 


THE  NATIVES  AND  THE  GOVERNMENT. 


61 


others , but  much  still  remains  to  be  done.  The  amount  ex- 
pended for  educational  purposes  in  the  Bombay  Presidency, 
is  about  £12,500,  which  is  insufficient  to  support  any  general 
system  of  instruction.  The  Board  of  Education  consists  of 
three  English  residents  and  three  natives;  in  its  operation  it 
embraces  instruction  in  the  Mahratta  and  Guzeratee,  as  well 
as  the  English  and  Hindostanee  languages.  The  Elphinstone 
Institution  has  at  present  about  1,400  scholars,  the  great  pro- 
portion of  whom  are  studying  in  the  English  department. 
They  are,  however,  first  required  to  pass  in  the  vernacular 
languages.  The  respect  in  which  such  men  as  Mountstuart 
Elphinstone  and  Sir  Charles  Forbes  are  held  by  the  natives, 
shows  how  truly  they  appreciate  every  effort  for  their  improve- 
ment, and  how  eagerly  they  would  respond  to  any  measure 
which  had  their  good  in  view. 

The  more  intelligent  of  the  natives  took  advantage  of  the 
approaching  renewal  of  the  East  India  Company’s  Chartei 
(which  expired  in  April,  1854),  to  form  associations  and  draw 
up  memorials  for  presentation  to  Government,  in  which  they 
represented  the  disadvantages  of  the  present  system  in  its  effect 
on  the  native  population.  The  movement  was  rather  too  late 
to  be  productive  of  much  effect,  but  it  was  interesting  as  show- 
ing the  temper  of  the  native  subjects  in  India.  I saw  none 
of  the  memorials  except  that  of  the  Bombay  Association,  which 
was  drawn  up  by  Dr.  Bhawoo  Dajee.  It  was  an  admirably 
written  document,  moderate  and  respectful,  but  at  the  same 
time  firm  and  dignified  in  its  tone,  stating  with  great  clear- 
ness the  causes  of  complaint,  and  suggesting  means  of  redress. 


CHAPTER  Y, 


THE  BANGHY  CART. 

Preparations  for  Departure— "Warnings— Filial  Gratitude— The  Banghy  Cart— A Night- 
Gallop  thrc  ugh  Bombay— The  Island  Road — Ferry  to  the  Mainland — Despotism  of 
the  Banghy-Cart — Morning  Scenery — The  Bungalow— Breakfast— The  Sun  as  a Phy- 
sician— An  Army  of  Bullocks— Climbing  the  Ghauts— Natural  Pagodas — The  Sum- 
mit— A Kind  Sergeant — The  Second  Day — Resemblance  to  Mexico— Natives  and 
"Villages — The  Menagerie  Man  in  Egypt — An  English  Cantonment — Dhoolia — The 
Lieutenant  and  his  Ilospitality — A Rough  Road — Accident — Waiting  in  the  Jungle— 
The  Bullock-Cart— Halt  at  Seerpore. 

As  I was  bound  for  China,  and  could  spare  but  a very  short 
time  for  my  journeys  in  India,  I remained  only  a week  in 
Bombay.  The  information  given  me  by  my  English  friends 
did  not  furnish  a very  satisfactory  prospect  of  visiting  Delhi 
and  the  Himalayas,  and  reaching  Calcutta,  within  the  space  of 
two  months,  without  a much  greater  expenditure  of  money 
than  I was  prepared  to  make.  The  usual  mode  of  travelling 
nad  up  to  that  time  been  by  palanquin,  a mode  as  costly  as  it 
is  disagreeable.  The  post-road  to  Agra,  however,  had  recently 
been  made  passable  for  a small  cart  which  carried  the  mails, 
and  just  before  my  arrival  a hanghy-cart  had  commenced  run- 
ning from  Bombay  to  Indore,  a distance  of  375  miles,  or  about 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  DEPARTURE. 


63 


aalf  way  to  the  former  city.  A hanghy  means,  I believe,  a 
package,  or  something  of  that  sort,  and  the  cart  answers  to  a 
package-express.  Mr.  Cowasjee  Ruttonjee,  the  contractor, 
assured  me  that  the  trip  would  positively  be  made  within  six 
days,  travelling  day  and  night.  The  fare  was  four  annas 
(twelve  cents)  per  mile,  or  nearly  $47,  exclusive  of  expenses 
by  the  way.  This,  for  India,  was  considered  cheap  travelling, 
and  I resolved  to  make  a trial  of  it.  I was  obliged  to  give  up 
the  idea  of  taking  a servant  with  me,  and  to  trust  entirely  to^ 
about  twenty  words  of  Hindostanee,  which  I had  picked  up  on 
board  the  Achilles.  Many  were  the  evil  predictions  made  to 
me  by  most  of  my  English  friends : “You  can  never  stand  the 
fatigue;  you  can  get  nothing  to  eat;  you  will  be  perfectly 
helpless  if  any  thing  happens,”  etc.  But  an  old  officer,  who 
had  travelled  not  only  over  all  India  but  nearly  all  the  world, 
wisely  comforted  me.  “ Never  mind  what  these  people  say,” 
said  he ; “ they  are  accustomed  to  travel  luxuriously,  with  re- 
tinues of  servants.  Depend  upon  it,  you  will  get  along  without 
the  least  difficulty.” 

I sent  my  heavy  baggage  by  the  steamer  to  Calcutta,  lim- 
iting myself  to  two  small  carpet-bags,  which  was  all  that 
Cowasjee  would  take  in  his  cart.  My  Hindoo  servant,  with 
the  one  red  and  two  white  stripes  on  his  forehead,  procured 
me  a native  tailor,  who  made  me  several  pairs  of  pantaloons, 
of  a shape  so  remarkable  that  I have  not  been  able  to  wear 
them,  to  this  day.  Perhaps  as  I grow  older,  my  form  will  ap 
proach  nearer  to  the  standard  of  Hindoo  Art,  and  they  will 
«hen  become  serviceable.  The  striped  servant  looked  very 
forlorn  and  disconsolate,  as  he  carried  my  carpet-bags  from 
Pallanjee’s  Hotel  to  the  Express  Office,  on  the  evening  of  the 


64 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


3d  of  January.  “ 0 my  master  ! ” he  bewailed  : ‘ 1 am  werry 
sorry  to  part  with  you.  You  are  my  father,  and  I am  your 
son.  0 my  father,  I shall  never  forget  you  ! ” Considering 
that  he  was  of  a dark-brown  complexion,  forty  years  old,  and 
rather  ill-favored,  I was  not  anxious  to  accept  the  relationship, 
but,  not  to  be  wanting  in  parental  regard,  I gave  him  nearly 
double  the  wages  agreed  upon.  Not  only  did  he  show  no  grat- 
itude, but  importuned  me  for  more — so  little  filial  affection  is 

there  in  India ! 

% 

The  banghy-cart  was  in  readiness  before  Cowasjee’s  of&ce, 
when  I arrived.  It  was  a square,  springless  buggy,  with  a 
white  canvas  top,  and  extremely  heavy  shafts  and  wheels. 
My  baggage  and  the  packages  for  the  interior  were  stowed  in 
the  body  of  the  vehicle,  the  driver  and  I took  our  seats, 
Cowasjee  inclined  his  body  and  touched  his  Parsee  mitre,  and 
away  we  dashed  into  Monument-square.  A groom  ran  at  the 
horse’s  head  till  we  were  fairly  under  way,  and  then  climbed 
upon  the  box  behind  us.  We  went  out  of  the  gates  of  the 
Fort,  crossed  the  esplanade,  and  entered  the  busy  native  town, 
where  we  encountered  two  marriage  processions.  The  red 
torches  glittered  on  pearls  and  gold  embroidery,  on  the  silver 
pyramids  of  the  dowry,  and  the  rainbow  silks  of  the  women. 
Our  horse,  frightened  by  the  noise  of  the  drums  and  cymbals 
dashed  off  furiously,  making  directly  for  a blank  wall,  before 
which  several  persons  were  passing.  The  driver  seemed  pow- 
erless, and  we  came  instantly  upon  the  wall,  catching  one  of 
the  natives  between  it  and  the  wheel.  I sprang  forward,  seized 
the  reins  and  drew  the  horse  around  just  in  time  to  save  the 
man’s  life,  though  not,  I fear,  to  prevent  his  being  badly  in- 
jured. The  horse  now  started  at  a mad  gallop  down  the 


THE  ISLANDS  AT  NIGHT. 


65 


street,  which  was  crowded  with  people.  The  driver  stooped 
down  and  raised  to  his  mouth  something  which,  in  the  dark 
ness,  resembled  a bottle.  He  did  indeed  take  a horn — and 
blew  the  most  terrible  blasts,  as  we  careered  onwards  like 
Shiva,  the  Destroyer,  the  white-robed,  ghost-like  natives  scat- 
tering on  all  sides  before  us.  I grasped  the  top  of  the  cart 
tightly  and  awaited  the  result,  for  the  horse  swerved  from 
side  to  side  in  such  a manner  that  a crash  seemed  inevitable. 
However,  in  less  time  than  it  has  taken  to  write  these  lines, 
we  were  outside  of  Bombay,  and  the  cessation  of  noise  and 
glare  restored  the  animal  to  his  senses. 

There  was  no  moon,  but  we  had  the  brilliant  starlight  of 
the  tropics,  and  for  an  hour  after  leaving,  the  zodiacal  light 
stood  like  a shining  obelisk  in  the  west.  The  road  was  broad, 
and  as  smooth  and  as  hard  as  a floor,  and  in  less  than  an  hour 
we  reached  the  first  station.  Another  horse  was  in  readiness, 
and  not  less  mettlesome  than  the  first,  so  that  we  made  fully 
six  miles  an  hour.  The  road  was  embowered  in  mango,  syca- 
more, palm  and  tamarind  trees,  whose  breath  made  the  night 
warm  and  balmy.  Our  lamps  shed  transient  gleams  on  the 
rich  masses  of  foliage,  and  I was  so  delighted  with  the  pictures 
thus  brought  out  of  the  darkness  on  either  hand,  that  1 
reached  the  end  of  the  gardens  and  of  Bombay  Island  with 
regret.  A solid  stone  causeway  extends  across  the  shallow 
strait  to  the  Island  of  Salsette,  whose  hills  now  rose  dimly 
before  me.  In  these  hills  are  the  caves  and  temples  of  Ken- 
^ry.  During  my  stay  at  Bombay  I had  not  time  to  visit  them, 
but  I was  informed  that  they  are  on  a much  smaller  scale  than 
those  of  Elephanta,  though  so  numerous  that  the  natives 
reckon  their  number  at  nine  hundred. 


66 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


We  changed  horses  twice  on  the  island  of  Salsette,  once  at 
a village  of  mud  and  bamboo  huts,  so  thoroughly  Egyptian  in 
appearance  that  I could  have  believed  myself  on  the  hanks  of 
the  Nile.  At  midnight  we  reached  the  northern  end  of  the 
island,  which  is  about  twenty  miles  in  length.  We  roused 
the  sleepy  ferrymen,  who  dragged  the  cart  upon  a platform 
laid  across  two  small  boats,  and  slowly  rowed  us  over  to  the 
mainland  of  India.  The  strait,  as  well  as  I could  distinguish, 
is  very  crooked,  and  not  more  than  a quarter  of  a mile  in 
breadth.  Up  to  this  time  I had  not  spoken,  nor  been  spoken 
to,  for  a very  good  reason,  but  no  sooner  was  the  cart  hauled 
ashore,  than  the  boatmen  came  up  to  me  exclaiming : “ Icishii- 
walla:  chirramirry  I (As  much  as  to  say;  “we  are  the 
boatmen,  give  us  a gratuity.”  I remembered  the  words,  and 
found  them  next  morning  in  my  vocabulary.)  I gave  them  a 
small  fee,  and  then  the  driver  came  up,  saying  “ Salaam,  sahib 
— chirramirry  f ” So  there  could  be  no  doubt  as  to  the  mean- 
ing of  “ chirramirry.” 

With  a new  driver  and  a new  horse  I again  started  for- 
ward. The  country  was  more  open  and  undulating,  and  all 
signs  of  gardens  and  residences  disappeared.  Now  and  then 
we  passed  a mud  village,  and  about  every  hour  changed  horses 
at  a rude  station,  before  reaching  which  the  driver  blew 
furious  peals  upon  his  trumpet.  In  consequence  of  this,  we 
generally  found  the  horse  in  waiting,  and  experienced  no 
delay  in  changing.  The  night  wore  away,  the  waning  moon 
came  up,  and  then  the  morning-star ; the  travelling  natives, 
encamped  among  the  trees,  began  to  bestir  themselves,  and 
with  the  first  streak  of  daylight  their  heavy  ox-wagons  were 
in  motion.  Now  came  the  horn  again  into  play,  and  thence- 


MORNING  SCENERY. 


67 


there  was  no  cessation  of  its  warning  blasts.  Everj 
thing  must  give  way  to  the  banghy-cart.  Woe  to  the  native 
who,  having  heard  the  horn  half  a mile  behind  him,  still  dozed 
on,  allowing  his  plodding  cattle  to  keep  the  best  track.  Down 
jumped  the  groom,  battering  the  beasts  out  of  the  way,  and 
a touch  of  the  driver’s  whip  not  seldom  quickened  the 
senses  of  their  masters.  No  one  dared  to  remonstrate,  for  the 
banghy-cart  is  attached  to  the  Post-Office  Department. 

Morning  showed  me  an  open,  rolling  country,  studded 
here  and  there  with  clumps  of  trees,  and  showing  occasional 
signs  of  cultivation.  As  it  was  then  the  dry  season,  the  grass 
was  brown  and  withered,  and  the  soil  parched.  The  sea  was 
out  of  sight,  and  the  broken  ranges  of  the  Ghauts  before  me, 
seemed  near  at  hand.  The  road  was  broad  and  good,  and 
bridged  over  the  gullies,  but  so  beaten  by  continual  travel, 
that  we  swept  along  in  a cloud  of  dust.  I hailed  the  rising 
sun  with  the  fervor  of  a Parsee,  for  the  night  had  been  so 
cold,  that  in  spite  of  a thick  great-coat,  I was  chilled  to  the 
very  bones.  I was  getting  hungry,  also,  and  knowing  that  we 
must  be  approaching  a bungalow,  I took  out  Forbes’s  Hindos- 
tanee  grammar,  and  began  searching  for  the  words  to  express 
my  wants.  Having  prepared  a sufficient  stock  of  nouns,  and 
the  verbs  “ bring  ” and  “ give,”  I deemed  myself  calpable  of 
achieving  a breakfast. 

But  first,  it  is  necessary  to  explain  the  meaning  of  a bun- 
galow. I believe  it  is  the  general  term  in  India  for  a resi- 
dence of  the  better  class,  as  the  English,  except  in  large  cities, 
always  speak  of  their  houses  as  “bungalows.”  On  all  the 
principal  lines  of  road  throughout  the  country,  the  Govern- 
ment has  erected  bungalows,  at  intervals  of  from  ten  to  twenty 


68 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


miles,  for  the  accommodation  of  European  travellers.  The 
natives  have  their  serais^  resembling  the  Turkish  khans,  and 
unless  travelling  bj  post,  are  not  admitted  into  the  bungalows 
The  latter  are  plain  but  substantial  cottages,  furnished  onl}’ 
with  tables,  chairs,  and  bedsteads,  and  generally  containing 
two  dining  and  two  sleeping  apartments.  There  are  out- 
houses for  the  residence  of  a native  servant,  called  a peon^  who 
has  charge  of  the  establishment,  and  for  the  cooks,  or  mess- 
men,  who  are  obliged  to  procure  supplies  and  prepare  meals 
according  to  a fixed  scale  of  prices.  For  the  use  of  the  bun- 
galow, each  traveller  pays  one  rupee  (fifty  cents)  per  day 
Were  it  not  for  this  excellent  arrangement,  one  would  be 
obliged  to  take  tents  and  all  the  paraphernalia  of  a house 
hold,  and  to  carry  supplies  with  him  from  place  to  place.  A 
register  for  the  names  of  travellers  is  kept  in  each  bungalow, 
and  they  are  requested  to  note  the  sums  paid,  in  order  to  pre- 
vent dishonesty  on  the  part  of  the  peons.  By  nine  o’clock 
we  reached  the  village  of  Khurdee,  sixty-four  miles  from 
Bombay.  The  word  “hazree”  (breakfast)  conveyed  my  in- 
tention to  the  driver,  and  he  answered : “ Achcha,  sahib  ” 
(very  well,  sir).  I succeeded  so  well  with  the  messman  that  in 
an  hour  an  excellent  curry  and  omelette  smoked  upon  the 
table.  The  natives,  all  along  the  road,  have  ingrafted  some 
English  words  upon  the  Hindostanee,  and  frequently  use  them 
in  a very  amusing  manner.  Whenever  I asked  for  eggs,  I 
was  almost  sure  to  be  asked  in  return  : “ Half  hiled  or  mom- 
let  ^ ” I was  provident  enough  to  supply  myself  with  a paper  of 
tea  in  Bombay,  since  it  is  not  always  to  be  had  on  the  road. 

On  getting  into  the  cart,  at  the  last  station  before  reach- 
ing Khurdee,  the  step  broke,  and  as  I fell,  my  knee  struck 


SUN-CURE AN  ARMY  OF  BULLOCKS. 


69 


upon  a projecting  bolt,  causing  sucb  intense  pain  as  almost  to 
deprive  me  of  my  senses  ’ By  the  time  we  baited  again,  tbe 
joint  was  so  stiff  that  I could  scarcely  bend  it.  The  hurt  pro- 
duced such  a chilliness  that  my  teeth  chattered,  and  I was 
fain  to  sit  in  the  sun  while  breakfast  was  preparing.  The 
morning  was  scorchingly  hot,  and  I soon  noticed  that  the  heat 
seemed  to  draw  out  the  pain  from  the  injured  limb.  In  fact, 
after  sunning  it  half  an  hour  I was  able  to  get  up  and  walk  as 
usual,  and  thenceforth  never  felt  the  slightest  inconvenience 
from  the  injury.  This  is  a case  of  sun-cure,  which  I recommend 
to  any  one  who  is  anxious  to  start  a new  system  of  healing. 

Khurdee  lies  at  the  base  of  the  Ghauts,  and  our  road  now 
plunged  into  a wild,  hilly  region,  covered  with  jungle.  The 
road  was  broad,  but  very  rough,  and  so  steep  that  nothing  but 
the  emigrant  trail  over  the  Sierra  Nevada  could  equal  it.  At 
the  worst  descents,  my  conductor  called  upon  the  aid  of  half  a 
dozen  bullock-drivers,  who  seized  the  shafts  and  pushed  back- 
ward with  all  their  force.  Our  progress  was  still  further 
hindered  by  the  endless  throng  of  bullocks  which  we  met. 
They  were  laden  with  bags  of  rice  and  of  grain,  and  bales  of 
cotton,  and  on  their  way  downward  to  the  coast.  Between 
Khurdee  and  Kussara,  a distance  of  twelve  miles,  we  must 
have  passed  from  fifteen  to  twenty  thousand  of  them.  They 
were  all  heavily  laden,  and  jogging  on  at  a slow,  patient  walk, 
which  would  carry  them  about  ten  miles  a day.  Those,  how- 
ever, who  are  trained  to  harness  and  employed  by  the  natives 
as  draught  animals,  easily  travel  twenty-five  miles  a day,  even 
on  a long  journey.  Though  the  cow  is  such  a sacred  beast  in 
India,  there  is  no  end  to  the  labor  imposed  upon  her  children, 
Qor  is  she  herself  always  spared. 


70 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


We  were  nearly  four  hours  in  making  the  twelve  miles 
over  the  pass  of  Rudtoondee,  and  then  came  down  upon 
Kussara,  a little  village  situated  in  a dell  at  the  foot  of  the 
Tull  Ghaut.  The  highest  parapet  of  the  range  was  now 
above  us,  and  the  final  ascent  to  the  table-land  commenced. 
The  physicial  formation  of  this  part  of  India  very  much  re- 
sembles that  of  the  Western  Coast  of  Mexico.  The  summit 
level  is  nearly  uniform,  but  instead  of  presenting  a mural 
front,  it  thrusts  out  projecting  spurs  or  headlands,  and  is 
cloven  by  deep  gorges.  Sharp  peaks  rise  here  and  there  from 
the  general  level,  formed  of  abrupt  but  gradually  diminishing 
terraces,  crowned  by  domes  or  towers  of  naked  rock.  At  a 
distance,  they  bear  an  extraordinary  resemblance  to  works  of 
art,  and,  what  is  very  striking,  to  the  ancient  temples  of  the 
Hindoos.  Is  this  an  accidental  resemblance,  or  did  not  the  old 
races  in  reality  get  their  forms  of  architecture  directly  from 
Nature?  It  is  certainly  a striking  coincidence  that  all  the 
hills  in  the  Nubian  Desert  should  be  pyramids,  and  all  the 
peaks  of  the  Indian  Ghauts  pagodas.  The  word  ghaut  means 
a flight  of  steps,  as  the  Ghauts  are  a succession  of  terraces 
descending  from  the  table-land  to  the  sea ; and  every  principal 
Hindoo  temple  is  approached  by  a ghaut.  The  formation  of 
the  summits  is  a characteristic  of  Indian  scenery.  Tennyson, 
who,  I believe,  has  never  been  in  India,  describes  in  two  lines 
the  most  peculiar  aspects  of  the  country : 

“And  over  hilh  with peaJcy  tops  engrailed, 

And  many  a tract  of  palm  and  rice, 

The  throne  of  Indian  Caina  slowly  sailed, 

A summer  fanned  with  spice.” 

There  is  a splendid  artificial  road  leading  up  the  Tull 


THE  KIND  SERGEANT. 


71 


Ghaut.  As  a piece  of  engineering,  it  will  vie  with  some  of 
the  best  roads  in  Europe.  The  grade  is  so  slight  that  we 
drove  all  the  way  on  a fast  trot,  and  the  windings  around  the 
sides  of  the  gorge  gave  me  grand  views  of  the  lower  terraces 
of  the  Ghauts.  At  the  top,  we  entered  on  the  great  table 
land  of  Central  India.  It  was  an  open,  undulating  region, 
much  better  cultivated  than  any  I had  yet  seen,  and  crossed, 
at  intervals  of  twenty  to  thirty  miles,  by  high  ranges  of  hills. 
The  air  was  drier  and  purer  than  below,  and  the  setting  sun 
shone  broad  and  warm  over  tracts  of  wheat  and  sugar-cane. 
We  rolled  along  merrily,  through  the  twilight  and  into  the 
darkness  again,  and  towards  nine  o’clock  came  to  the  large 
town  and  military  station  of  Nassick. 

I went  directly  to  the  bungalow,  for  I was  quite  ready  for 
dinner.  An  Englishman  came  out  of  one  of  the  rooms,  and 
not  only  assisted  me  in  orderiDg  the  meal,  but  sent  his  own 
servant  to  help  get  it  ready.  He  evidently  took  me  for  an 
officer  (for  a traveller  is  a rare  sight  in  India),  and  meekly 
remarked,  “ I am  only  a sergeant,  in  the  Engineers  Corps. 
I caught  the  fever  in  the  jungles  at  Khurdee,  and  have  been 
sent  up  here  to  recover.”  I was  very  much  fatigued,  and  lay 
down  upon  the  bare  bedstead,  while  dinner  was  preparing. 
The  sergeant  brought  his  pillow  and  placed  it  under  my  head, 
and  when  I awoke  after  two  hours’  sleep,  I found  his  cloak 
carefully  wrapped  around  me  and  himself  tenderly  watching, 
that  nothing  might  disturb  my  slumbers.  It  was  nearly  mid- 
night before  the  bangby-cart  came.  I took  leave  of  the  kind- 
hearted  sergeant,  and  we  set  out  at  a slow  pace.  We  had 
already  crossed  the  watershed  of  India,  and  soon  after  leaving 
Nassick,  forded  the  Godavery,  one  of  the  largest  streams  in 


72 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


the  country,  which  empties  into  the  sea  on  the  Coromandel 
Coast,  not  far  from  Madras.  Soon  afterwards  we  entered  a 
large  town  by  a gateway,  with  a Moorish  arch,  and  threaded 
the  silent  streets — a scene  which  recalled  forcibly  to  my 
mind,  a midnight  ramble  through  the  town  of  Ekhmin,  in 
Upper  Egypt. 

All  the  rest  of  the  night  we  travelled  slowly  along, 
through  a rolling  country,  and  about  nine  next  morning  reached 
Chandore,  only  forty-five  miles  from  Nassick.  Chandore  is  a 
walled  town,  situated  in  a hollow  at  the  foot  of  the  Chandore 
Ghaut.  It  boasts  several  Hindoo  temples  of  dark  stone,  but 
none  of  them  remarkable  for  size  or  beauty.  The  gro- 
tesque idols,  their  faces  smeared  with  red  paint,  were  visible 
through  the  open  door.  I went  to  the  bungalow  for  breakfast, 
and  was  obliged  to  wait  three  hours  before  the  cart  came — a 
delay  which  enabled  me  to  get  a little  more  sleep.  Neverthe- 
less, the  heat  and  glare  of  the  noonday  sun  so  disposed  me  to 
drowsiness,  that  I was  several  times  on  the  point  of  tumbling 
out  of  the  cart.  I should  have  stated  that  at  Khurdee  we 
changed  vehicles,  and  after  that  I had  nothing  but  a square  box 
on  wheels,  without  springs  or  cover.  We  crossed  the  Chan- 
dore Ghaut  by  a wild  pass,  half  way  up  which  stands  a pagoda, 
so  old  and  black  that  it  might  properly  belong  to  the  Yezidees, 
or  Devil- Worshippers.  Beyond  the  Ghaut  we  came  upon  a 
waste,  hilly  region,  entirely  covered  with  thorny  jungle. 

All  this  part  of  India  reminded  me  strongly  of  the  table- 
land of  Mexico.  There  are  the  same  broad,  sweeping  plains, 
gashed  by  deep  ravines  and  gullies ; the  same  barren  chains 
of  hills,  and  the  same  fertile  dips  of  lowland,  rich  in  corn  and 
cane.  I passed  through  more  than  one  landscape,  where,  if  I 


RESEMBLANCE  TO  MEXICO. 


7b 


had  been  brought  blindfold  and  asked  to  guess  where  £ was,  I 
should  have  declared  at  once : “ This  is  Mexico.”  Substitute 
the  words  nulla  for  “arroyo,”  (gully,)  ghaut  for  “sierra.” 
and  jungle  for  “ chapparal,”  and  you  change  a description  of 
the  Mexican  into  that  of  the  Indian  table-land.  I must 
admit,  however,  that,  in  general,  Mexican  scenery 'is  on  a 
broader  and  grander  scale  than  here.  We  Americans  need 
not  envy  England  the  possession  of  India ; for,  if  we  were 
not  a people  obstinately  opposed  to  the  acquisition  of  new 
territory — if  we  were  not  utterly  blind  to  “ manifest  destiny,” 
and  regardless  of  the  hints  which  “ Geography  ” is  constantly 
throwing  out  to  us — we  might  possess  ourselves  of  Cuba  and 
Mexico,  and  thus  outrival  her.  Some  of  my  readers  may 
laugh  at  the  absurdity  of  such  an  idea ; but  when  a man  is 
travelling  alone,  among  a strange  people,  he  is  scarcely  respon- 
sible for  all  that  comes  into  his  head. 

The  resemblance  to  Mexico,  however,  does  not  extend  to 
the  towns  and  population,  which  are  rather  those  of  Egypt. 
The  Indian  native  is  darker  than  the  Egyptian  Fellah,  and 
has  a more  acute  and  lively  face,  but  in  his  habits  and  man- 
ners he  has  much  in  common  with  the  latter.  He  has  the 
same  natural  quickness  of  intellect,  the  same  capacity  for  de- 
ception, the  same  curious  mixture  of  impudence  and  abject 
servility,  and  the  same  disregard  of  clothing.  The  houses  are 
low  cabins  of  mud  and  bamboo,  or  in  the  larger  villages,  of 
mud  and  unburnt  bricks,  with  mud  divans  in  front,  and  some- 
times thatched  verandahs  resting  on  wooden  pillars.  Noth- 
ing can  be  more  miserable  than  the  appearance  of  the  smaller 
villages,  which  are  even  inferior  to  those  of  the  Nile  Delta, 
and  I should  like  to  exhibit  them  to  an  original  Englishman 
1 


74 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


who  went  in  the  same  boat  with  me  from  Alexandria  to  (jairo. 
As  we  were  passing  one  of  the  villages  on  the  Nile,  he  came 
up  to  me  with  a horrified  expression  of  face,  grasped  my  arm, 
pointed  to  the  huts,  and  exclaimed:  “ Look  there ! people  ac- 
tually live  there  ! ” “ Is  it  possible  ? ” said  I,  with  as  much 

astonishment  as  I could  command,  on  such  short  notice. 
“Yes,”  he  replied;  “Good  God,  it’s  dreadful!”  This  man 
was  a son  of  a keeper  of  a menagerie,  and  was  on  his  way  to 
Central  Africa,  in  search  of  the  Great  Hydrocephalus,  or 
some  other  unknown  monster.  He  was  in  a furious  state  of 
indignation,  because  Discount  & Co.,  the  bankers  at  Alexan- 
dria, had  taken  four  per  cent,  commission  on  his  letter  of 
credit.  “ It’s  only  a month  since  I left  England,”  said  he, 
“ and  that’s  four  per  cent,  a month,  and  that  makes  forty- 
eight  per  cent,  a year.  Suppose  I had  been  a year  on  the 
way,  I should  have  been  ruined.  If  I had  money  enough  to 
buy  the  Hydrocephalus,  I should  not  draw  a penny,  and  then 
they  would  have  to  refund  the  whole  of  it.  But  I’ll  write  a 
letter  to  The  Times^  and  we’ll  see  how  much  more  business 
of  that  sort  they’ll  do.” 

To  return  to  the  banghy-cart : we  rolled  on  all  the  after 
noon  through  alternate  jungle  and  cultivated  land,  and 
toward  evening  reached  Mulleigaum,  a military  cantonment. 
It  is  situated  in  the  middle  of  an  open  plain,  which,  although 
apparently  barren,  needs  but  irrigation  to  make  it  one  vast 
garden.  The  neat  bungalows  of  the  English  ofi&cers  are  em- 
bowered in  foliage  and  blossoms,  which  water  alone  lias 
coaxed  out  of  the  soil.  The  orchards  of  bananas  dropped 
their  plumy  leaves,  and  the  thick  hedges  of  Persian  roses, 
crimson  with  blossoms,  scented  the  air  far  and  wide.  Through 


DHOOLIA THE  LIEUTENANT. 


75 


the  verandahs  and  open  doors  I caught  glimpses  of  elegant 
furniture  and  pictures  within,  and  once  a female  figure  glided 
past.  I had  fancied  India  to  he  a place  of  exile,  hut  nothing 
could  he  more  cheerful  and  homelike  than  these  residences. 
The  sepoys  were  drawn  up  on  the  parade-ground  for  evening 
review,  and  a most  soldierly  appearance  they  made.  We 
drove  to  the  post-office,  and  as  I had  not  time  to  take  dinner, 
I accepted  the  services  of  a Portuguese  who  spoke  English, 
and  who  offered  to  procure  me  supplies  for  the  road.  He 
obtained  some  biscuits,  boiled  some  eggs,  and  made  me  a bot- 
tle of  strong  tea,  but  refused  to  accept  of  the  slightest  pay  for 
his  services. 

Thus  supplied,  I entered  on  the  third  night  of  my  jour- 
ney. It  was  somewhat  cloudy  and  dark,  and  I could  only 
observe  that  our  road  lay  over  the  same  wide  uplands,  except 
for  a few  miles,  when  passing  the  Lulling  Ghaut.  The  way 
was  rough  and  stony,  and  the  thumps  I received  kept  me  from 
falling  into  the  road  through  drowsiness.  An  hour  past  mid- 
night I reached  the  military  station  of  Hhoolia,  215  miles 
from  Bombay,  and  was  not  sorry  when  the  driver  informed 
me  that  he  should  go  no  further  that  night.  Off  I started*  for 
the  bungalow,  and  on  reaching  it,  was  surprised  to  find  the 
rooms  lighted,  and  a man  in  English  dress  on  the  verandah, 
lie  held  a small  lantern  before  him,  which  prevented  my  see- 
ing his  face.  “ Is  this  the  travellers’  bungalow  ? ” I asked. 
He  said  nothing,  but  threw  the  light  of  the  lamp  full  upon 
my  face,  held  it  there  a few  moments,  and  then  cried  out : 
“Why,  you’re  a traveller!  Yes.  Come  in.  It’s  full,  but 
I’ll  make  room  for  you.  I’m  just  taking  a cup  of  tea : will 
you  take  tea,  or  beer,  or  brandy- and- water  ? ItcTioglan! 


76 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN 


bring  tea ! ” There  was  no  resisting  such  a rapid  welcome, 
and  before  I had  time  to  put  in  a word  of  explanation,  I was 
seated  on  one  end  of  the  table,  drinking  a cup  of  tea  with  the 
Lieutenant,  for  such  he  proved  to  be.  Meanwhile,  he  was 
giving  orders  on  all  sides.  One  servant  ran  for  a bedstead  ; 
another  for  a pillow;  a third  for  a quilt.  “I’ll  make  you 
comfortable,”  said  he ; “ you  didn’t  expect  such  rough  times, 
did  you  now?  You  thought  India  was  like  England,  didn’t 
you  ? That’s  the  way.  But  you  want  to  go  to  bed.  Here, 
let  my  servants  pull  off  your  boots,  and  help  you  undress. 
You  never  did  that  in  England,  you  know,  and  you  won’t 
know  how  to  go  about  it.”  And  so  he  ran  on,  what  length 
of  time  I cannot  tell,  for  I no  sooner  lay  down,  than  I fell 
fast  asleep. 

I was  awakened  at  sunrise  by  his  servant,  with  a cup  of 
tea  and  a plate  of  biscuit.  The  Lieutenant  walked  with  me 
to  the  Post-Office,  and  as  the  cart  was  not  ready,  took  me  to 
the  bungalow  of  some  other  officers,  who  immediately  invited 
me  to  breakfast.  The  conversation  was  so  exclusively  mili- 
tary, that  I did  not  feel  much  interested  in  it.  So-and-so,  of 
the  99th,  was  going  to  sell  out ; such-a-one,  of  “ Ours,”  had 
applied  for  two  months’  leave,  etc.  Presently  the  cart  came, 
and  I took  a cordial  leave  of  them  all.  The  road,  after  leav- 
ing Dhoolia,  became  indescribably  bad.  The  soil  was  a soft 
brown  loam,  which,  after  the  rains,  had  been  terribly  cut  up 
by  the  heavy  bullock-carts,  and  was  now  hard  and  dry.  Our 
horse  stumbled  slowly  along  over  the  ruts,  a groom  leading 
him  by  the  head.  The  country  was  crossed  by  deep  nullas, 
or  gulleys,  many  of  which  were  very  difficult  to  pass.  The 
scenery  presented  no  new  features,  except  a singular  isolated 


A BREAK  DOWN  IN  THE  JUNGLE. 


77 


hill;  resembling  a fortress,  near  Soongheer.  Beyond  this 
point  it  was  mostly  hilly  jungle,  with  few  habitations.  Dur- 
ing the  afternoon,  we  passed  three  elephants,  which  were 
standing  in  the  shade  of  a large  peepul  tree,  motionless  as  if 
hewn  out  of  basaltic  rock. 

It  was  already  two  o’clock,  and  we  had  only  proceeded 
about  twenty  miles  from  Dhoolia,  when  the  axle  suddenly 
snapped  under  the  repeated  jolts,  and  I was  thrown  into  the 
road.  I escaped  with  a slight  bruise,  and  sat  down  in  the 
jungle  to  await  the  issue.  As  I could  neither  give  nor  take 
suggestions,  I was  silent ; but  I had  with  me  that  exhaustless 
fountain  of  patience,  a pipe,  and  soon  attained  a mood  of 
cheerful  indifference  as  to  what  might  happen.  The  driver 
took  out  the  baggage  and  packages,  and  sat  down  with  them 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road ; the  groom  took  the  horse 
and  galloped  off.  An  hour  passed  by ; two  hours ; and  still 
we  sat  in  silence,  watching  the  procession  of  Hindoos,  Mos- 
lems, bullocks,  ponies  and  camels  that  came  and  went  between 
us.  At  last  a bullock-cart  dashed  up  on  a fast  trot,  the  bag- 
gage was  packed  upon  it,  I took  my  seat  and  away  we  went, 
leaving  the  broken  banghy-cart  in  the  road.  Was  that  the  last 
of  it?  the  reader  may  ask.  We  shall  see. 

We  reached  a place  called  Seerpore,  at  dusk,  our  brave 
bullocks  having  made  ten  miles  in  two  hours.  I had  supper, 
a good  night’s  rest,  and  breakfast,  and  there  was  still  no 
sign  of  the  cart.  The  messman,  who  was  very  civil  and  at- 
tentive, informed  me  that  it  would  be  mended  by  noon. 
Meanwhile,  there  was  I,  I knew  not  precisely  where.  I could 
not  find  the  place  on  the  map.  That  it  was  in  India  I was  cer- 
tain, because  there  was  a handsome  Hindoo  temple  close  be- 


78 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


side  the  bungalow,  and  before  the  temple  an  immense  ban* 
yan  tree,  and  under  the  banyan  tree  two  elephants.  I made  a 
sketch  of  the  scene,  as  a memorial  of  the  adventure. 

At  last  a native  entered,  and  with  a profound  salaam, 
said : “ Sahib  hanghy-cart  taiyar  haV''  (Sir,  the  banghy-cart 
is  ready). 


CHAPTER  VI. 


THE  BANGHY-CART,  CONCLUDED INDORE. 

Departure  from  Seerpore— Another  Break-down— A Crippled  Cart— Palasnelir— Indian 
Horses  and  Drivers— Jungle-The  Banyan  Tree— The  Tamarind— The  Natives  of 
the  Jungle— Military  Salutations — The  Town  of  Sindwah — Tokens  of  Decay— The 
Sindwah  Jungles — A Dilemma — The  Vindhya  Mountains — The  Station  of  Mhow — 
Arrival  at  Indore— The  Town— The  Rajah’s  Palace— The  Rajah  and  his  History— 
His  Tastes — Hindoo  Temples  and  their  Worshippers— The  English  Residency- 
Cold  Weather. 

It  was  not  without  some  misgivings  that  I again  took  my 
seat  in  the  banghy-cart,  and  left  the  place  called  Seerpore.  I 
was  now  entering  the  Sindwah  jungles,  a desolate  region, 
swarming  with  tigers,  and  so  unhealthy  that  from  the  end  of 
July  to  the  first  of  January  it  is  impassable.  In  case  of  acci- 
dent there  must  be  detention,  and  detention  in  such  a case  is 
fraught  with  danger.  However,  “ nothing  venture,  nothing 
win,’-  is  the  traveller’s  true  maxim.  We  thumped  and  bump- 
ed along  in  the  noonday  heat,  making  about  two  miles  an 
hour,  and  had  proceeded  five  miles,  when  I saw  the  axle 
(which  I had  been  watching)  suddenly  give  way  again.  I 
jumped  out  in  time  to  avoid  the  crash,  and  once  more  took  my 
3eat  in  the  jungle,  in  the  shade  of  a thorny  bush.  The  groom 


80 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


mounted  the  horse  and  rode  away ; the  driver  unpacked  the 
baggage  and  seated  himself  opposite  to  me,  and  thus  we  sat 
for  three  hours.  “ Patience,”  after  all,  is  the  watchword  of 
life.  It  may  seem  incredible,  but  I was  thoroughly  patient 
during  all  this  time. 

The  groom  at  last  appeared  with  a new  cart — and  such  a 
cart ! It  had  been  broken  so  often,  that  it  was  a hopeless  crip- 
ple. The  square  box  had  such  a pitch  forward,  and  the  step 
was  so  short,  that  I could  by  no  possibility  keep  my  seat  with- 
out holding  fast  with  both  hands.  By  this  time  it  was  dusk, 
and  we  crept  forward  gradually,  the  horse  occasionally  falling 
down  in  the  ruts,  and  coming  to  a stand-still  every  fifty  yards, 
until  urged  forward  by  repeated  cries  of  “ ai  hap  ! ai  hhai  ! ” 
(Oh,  my  father  ! my  brother  ! ) About  ten  o’clock  we  reached 
a village  called  Palasnehr,  only  slxteeu  miles  from  Seerproe, 
Laving  been  ten  hours  on  the  way.  The  driver  succeeded  in 
making  me  understand  that  he  did  not  intend  to  go  any  fur- 
ther that  night.  I therefore  went  to  the  bungalow,  and 
aroused  the  sleepy  khitmudgra,  (butler,)  “ What  can  I get  for 
supper  ? I asked.  “ Kuch  nay''  (nothing).  So  I took  a carpet- 
bag for  a pillow,  lay  down  on  the  bare  bedstead,  and  slept 
soundly  until  morning.  “ Can  you  get  me  any  thing  for 
breakfast?”  I asked  again.  Kuch  na^  And  the  banghy- 
cart  being  ready,  I went  away  hungry  from  Palasnehr. 

The  road  was  a little  better,  but  as  we  travelled  on  a trot 
instead  of  a walk,  the  cart  lost  nothing  of  its  roughness, 
which,  indeed,  was  rather  increased.  The  labor  of  holding  on 
taxed  me  sorely,  and  as  there  was  no  relaxation,  except  when 
we  stopped  to  change  horses,  the  muscles  of  my  arms  and  legs 
at  last  became  so  exhausted  that  I was  ready  to  double  up  and 


INDIAN  HORSES  AND  DRIVERS 


81 


sink  together  in  a heap.  My  wrists  and  ankles  were  swollen  for 
several  days  afterwards,  from  the  effects  of  that  ride.  The 
horses  and  drivers  on  this  part  of  the  road  are  probably  the 
worst  in  the  world.  The  driver’s  knowledge  is  confined  to  hold- 
ing the  reins,  and  even  this  he  understands  very  imperfectly. 
Instead  of  choosing  the  smoothest  part  of  the  road  he  takes  the 
roughest,  and  if  a stone  is  to  be  seen,  his  satisfaction  is  not 
complete  unless  the  cart  runs  over  it.  He  frequently  swerves 
some  distance  from  the  direct  track  to  effect  this  object.  As 
for  the  horse,  he  is  the  master,  and  if  any  exertion  is  neces- 
sary you  may  possibly  flatter  but  cannot  force  him  into  it. 
When  first  harnessed  he  never  starts  of  his  own  accord.  One 
groom  stands  at  his  head  patting  and  coaxing,  while  two 
others  push  at  the  wheels  until  they  press  him  forward.  He 
then  backs,  and  sometimes  sits  down  on  his  haunches.  More 
force  is  put  to  the  wheels,  until  backing  becomes  a labor  to 
him,  and  then  he  goes  forward  as  long  as  the  road  is  level. 
But  by  and  by  you  come  to  a slight  ascent.  He  knows 
already  where  it  is,  and  unless  you  keep  him  on  a gallop  he 
stops  at  the  bottom.  The  groom  jumps  down  and  runs  to  his 
head.  “ Tab  di  ” (pat  him),  says  the  driver,  and  while  the 
former  pats  him  on  the  neck,  the  latter  cries  out  in  most  en- 
dearing tones : “ Oh,  my  father,  my  brother,  my  bully,  my 
brave  fellow  ! ” Thus  encouraged  he  makes  a start,  and  gets 
about  half  way  up  the  rise,  when  he  stops  and  leisurely  backs 
down  again  to  the  bottom.  This  is  repeated  three  or  four 
times,  and  finally  some  of  the  bullock-drivers  are  called  on  to 
assist.  They  lay  hold  on  the  wheels,  and  the  horse,  instead 
of  drawing  up  the  cart,  is  himself  pushed  up  with  it.  On  one 
wjcasion,  where  there  was  a rise  of  about  one  foot  in  ten  for  a 
4* 


82 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


hundred  yards,  I was  obliged  to  wait  an  hour  and  a half  be 
fore  we  succeeded  in  passing. 

Soon  after  leaving  Palasnehr,  the  road  crossed  the  Sind- 
wah  Ghaut,  a range  of  hills  about  six  miles  in  breadth  and 
covered  with  jungle.  Beyond  them  opened  the  valley  of  the 
Nerbudda;  the  Vindhya  Mountains,  on  the  opposite  side, 
though  fifty  miles  distant,  were  dimly  visible.  Between  lay  a 
wild  waste  of  jungle,  almost  uninhabited,  a reservoir  of 
deadly  malaria  and  a paradise  for  panthers  and  tigers.  The 
word  “jungle,”  I should  explain,  is  used  to  express  any  kind 
of  wild  growth,  from  a thicket  to  a forest,  whether  highland 
or  lowland.  The  different  varieties  are  distinguished  as  “ close 
jungle,  thorn  jungle,  wet  jungle,”  etc.  About  Sindwah  the 
jungle  is  close,  composed  of  thick  clumps  of  shrubbery  and 
small  trees,  with  here  and  there  a magnificent  banyan  or  pee- 
pul  tree  towering  over  it.  In  the  valley  of  the  Nerbudda  there 
are  many  banyans,  and  some  of  great  size.  Few  trees  present 
grander  masses  of  foliage  than  this.  Instead  of  a low  roof 
of  boughs,  resting  on  its  pillared  trunks,  as  I had  supposed,  it 
sends  up  great  limbs  to  the  height  of  a hundred,  or  even  a 
hundred  and  fifty  feet,  and  the  new  trunks  are  often  dropped 
from  boughs  thirty  feet  high.  They  hang  like  parcels  of 
roots  from  the  ends  of  the  boughs,  and  when  broken  off  and 
prevented  from  reaching  the  earth,  continue  to  increase  and 
become  woody  like  the  trunk.  I have  seen  a tree  on  which 
huge  half-trunks,  that  had  never  reached  the  earth,  hung 
from  the  branches,  like  the  fragments  of  shattered  pillars, 
hanging  from  the  roof  of  an  Egyptian  rock-temple.  The 
leaves  of  the  banyan  are  large,  glossy  and  dark-green,  and  in 


THE  TAMARIND  TREE. 


83 


the  winter  the  foliage  is  studded  with  buds  of  a bright  purple 
color. 

The  only  other  large  trees  that  I remarked,  were  the 
sycamore  (peepul)  and  the  tamarind.  The  acacia  and  mimosa 
are  occasionally  met  with,  and  the  date  and  brab  palms  thrive 
in  the  valleys.  The  tamarind  frequently  rivals  the  banyan  in 
size,  while  its  foliage  is  wonderfully  graceful  and  delicate. 
The  leaflets  of  its  slender  pinnate  leaves  are  so  small,  that  the 
Koran  could  not  more  forcibly  describe  the  torments  of  the 
Mahometan  Hell,  than  when  it  says  that  the  sinners  in  the 
nether  fires  shall  receive,  to  cool  their  thirst,  just  so  much 
water  as  will  lie  on  one  of  these  leaflets,  once  in  a thousand 
years.  Of  the  smaller  trees  and  shrubs,  there  is  a great  va- 
riety, but  the  tamarind  and  banyan  are  the  characteristic  trees 
of  India,  as  the  palm  is  of  Egypt,  and  the  magnolia  and  cy- 
press of  our  Southern  States. 

From  Dhoolia  to  the  Nerbudda,  my  road  was  through  the 
District  of  Candeish,  which,  two  or  three  weeks  previous,  was 
the  subject  of  general  attention,  on  account  of  the  rising  of 
the  natives.  The  disturbance  had  been  quelled,  but  if  I had 
not  had  such  confidence  in  the  potency  of  English  rule,  I 
should  have  felt  that  I was  exposed  to  some  danger.  We  met 
continually  with  companies  of  armed  natives — not  the  mild, 
abject  inhabitants  of  the  cultivated  districts,  but  the  tall, 
fierce  sons  of  the  jungle — men  with  keen  eyes,  heavy  black 
beards,  and  a striking  expression  of  courage  and  defiance  in 
their  whole  bearing.  They  did  not  stoop  and  touch  the  earth 
in  humble  salutation,  as  I passed,  but  looked  me  full  in  the 
face,  without  a single  word  of  greeting.  Some  were  armed 
with  the  long  Bedouin  guns,  some  with  spears,  and  all  wore  sa- 


84 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


bres.  They  were  nearly  all  on  foot,  but  a few,  who  seemed 
to  be  men  of  authority,  rode  on  ponies.  I should  judge  the}- 
were  mostly  Mahometans,  from  their  turbans,  and  from  the 
cast  of  their  features.  It  is  very  easy  to  distinguish  betwecB 
the  followers  of  the  rival  religions,  without  reference  to  any 
distinguishing  mark  of  dress,  and  merely  from  the  expression 
of  the  face. 

We  constantly  met  long  trains  of  laden  bullocks  and  with 
numbers  of  hackrees^  or  native  ox-carts.  Many  of  the  trains 
were  accompanied  by  cheprasses^  or  Government  servant, 
(distinguished  by  a band  over  the  shoulders  with  an  inscribed 
brass  plate  upon  it),  and  by  sepoys.  In  aU  my  life  I never 
received  half  the  number  of  military  salutations,  as  during 
this  journey.  Of  course  I was  in  the  East  India  Company’s 
service,  for  nobody  else  travels  there;  my  brown  face  showed 
that  I had  been  a long  time  in  the  country,  and  my  habit  of 
never  expressing  astonishment,  when  among  a strange  people, 
was  sufficient,  in  spite  of  my  ignorance  of  the  language,  to 
certify  to  the  fact.  Every  sepoy  drew  himself  up,  faced  right 
about,  gave  his  right  arm  a wide  sweep  and  brought  his  hand 
to  his  cap.  I made  an  officer’s  response,  of  course,  but 
merely  gave  a slight  nod  to  the  salutations  of  the  peasants, 
though  they  sometimes  almost  prostrated  themselves  before 
me.  Near  Sindwah  we  passed  a small  village,  where  all  the 
male  inhabitants  rushed  out  of  their  houses,  ranged  them* 
selves  in  a row  beside  the  road,  with  the  elder  or  chief  at 
their  head,  and  successively  touched  the  dust  and  their  fore- 
heads. It  is  not  to  be  inferred  that  these  humiliating  tokens 
of  reverence  and  submission  to  the  English  power  have  been 
forced  upon  the  people.  . They  learned  submission  long  ago ; 


DESERTED  DISTRICTS. 


85 


it  is  natural  to  them.  The  Indian  servant  not  only  calls  you 
his  father,  but  his  King  and  his  God,  and  when  he  wants  to 
ask  you  a special  favor,  comes  to  you  with  a bunch  of  grass  in 
his  mouth,  saying  he  is  your  beast. 

During  the  forenoon  we  passed  Sindwah,  a miserable  vil- 
lage at  present,  though  once  a place  of  some  importance,  as  its 
massive  fortress  testifies.  There  is  some  cultivation  near  it, 
but  the  country  shows  marks  of  neglect  and  decay.  I was  old 
that  a large  part  of  Candeish,  which  is  now  waste  jungle,  was 
a flourishing  and  well-populated  region  fifty  years  ago.  I 
could  at  first  find  no  adequate  reason  for  these  tokens  of 
decay ; but  I believe  that,  in  most  instances,  they  are  owing 
to  a superstition  of  the  natives,  which  prevents  them  from  in- 
habiting lands  belonging  to  families  that  have  become  ex- 
tinct. They  believe  that  the  spirits  of  the  former  owners  lin- 
ger upon  the  soil,  and  would  visit  them  with  calamity,  or 
death,  if  they  persisted  in  remaining. 

All  the  rest  of  the  day,  and  part  of  the  night,  we  jolted 
on  through  the  lonely  jungles.  T was  in  great  hopes  of  seeing 
a tiger  spring  across  the  road,  but  had  no  such  luck.  Al- 
though the  ground  was  baked  hard  and  dry,  there  was  still  an 
exhalation  from  it,  as  my  shadow  appeared  with  a slight  halo 
around  it,  such  as  one  sees  on  a summer  morning,  when  the 
dew  begins  to  dry.  I suffered  with  a dull  headache  all  day, 
but  the  rough  road  might  account  for  this.  Towards  mid- 
night we  reached  Akbarpore,  on  the  Nerbudda,  having  made 
fifty-four  miles.  I was  too  sore  to  wait  for  supper,  but  went 
to  sleep  at  once,  after  ordering  breakfast  at  sunrise,  when  the 
cart  was  to  be  ready  again  Sunrise  came,  and  eight  o’clock, 
but  neither  cart  nor  breakfast.  At  last  the  driver  appeared 


86 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


and  made  me  a number  of  remarks  for  which  (in  my  igno 
ranee  of  the  language)  I was  none  the  wiser.  “ Is  the  cart 
ready  yet?  ” I asked.  “ Yes,  it  is  ready,  but  ’ — and  here  my 
comprehension  ceased  A horrid  suspicion  flashed  through 
my  mind : “ Is  it  gone  ? ” “ Yes,  it  is  gone,  but  ” — and  he  be- 
came unintelligible  again  “ Is  there  no  cart  ? ” again  I asked. 
“Yes,  there’s  a cart,  but” — That  dreadful  “but”  com- 
pletely floored  me.  I went  into  the  kitchen,  took  the  half- 
cooked  breakfast  from  the  Are,  and  hurriedly  ate  it,  for  I had 
lived  on  biscuits  for  two  days.  I then  went  directly  to  the 
post-station,  but  there  was  no  cart  there.  The  people  made 
many  observations,  but  all  availed  nothing,  till  at  last  one  of 
them  rose  and  beckoned  me  to  follow  him.  We  went  down  to 
the  Nerbudda,  which  is  a beautiful  river,  a third  of  a mile 
wide,  crossed  the  ferry,  and  behold ! there  stood  a new  cart, 
and  there  lay  a new  driver,  asleep  in  the  sun ! 

The  road  was  tolerable,  I could  now  sit  without  holding 
on,  and  thus  the  journey  became  pleasant  again.  The  valley 
of  the  Nerbudda  is  very  rich  and  fertile,  the  soil  resembling 
the  black  loam  of  Egypt.  We  passed  many  fields  of  flax, 
covered  with  blue  and  white  flowers ; wheat,  cotton,  tobacco 
and  poppies,  besides  small  patches  of  sugar-cane.  All  seemed 
to  thrive  equally  well.  But  a small  proportion  of  the  soil  is 
cultivated,  and  it  is  no  exaggeration  to  say,  that  the  valley 
might  be  made  to  support  a hundredfold  its  present  popula- 
tion We  now  approached  the  picturesque  Vindhya  Moun- 
tains, one  of  the  summits  of  which  was  crowned  with  a white 
building — the  tomb  of  a Moslem  Saint,  as  well  as  I could 
understand  the  driver.  The  road  passes  the  mountains,  at  a 
place  formerly  called  Ghara,  but  now  Kintrey’s  Ghaut,  in 


ARRIVAL  AT  INDORE. 


87 


honor  of  the  engineer.  It  is,  indeed,  admirably  planned, 
though  somewhat  out  of  repair.  The  summit,  which  sepa- 
rates the  waters  of  the  two  sides  of  India,  overlooks  a waste 
and  bleak  country.  Soon  after  descending  the  northern  side, 
we  crossed  the  head-waters  of  the  Chumbul,  the  largest 
affluent  of  the  Jumna.  At  eight  o’clock  I reached  the  military 
station  of  Mhow,  within  fourteen  miles  of  Indore,  and  was  so 
well  satisfied  that  I allowed  the  driver  to  stop  for  the  night. 

Mhow  is  a handsome  station,  the  officers’  bungalows,  sur- 
rounded with  small  gardens,  being  scattered  over  an  extent 
of  two  miles.  It  stands  on  a dry  plain,  2,000  feet  above  the 
sea,  and  is  considered  a very  healthy  place  of  residence. 
The  highest  point  is  crowned  by  a large  white  church,  the 
spire  of  which  may  be  seen  for  some  distance.  The  place  is 
included  within  the  limits  of  the  Madras  Presidency.  I had 
only  a passing  glimpse  of  the  town,  as  I left  early  next  morn- 
ing. A drive  of  two  hours,  over  a good  road  and  through  a 
rolling  upland  country^  devoted  to  the  opium  culture,  brought 
me  to  Indore,  and  I bade  adieu  to  the  banghy-cart,  hoping  I 
might  see  no  more  of  it.  The  journey  from  Bombay  occu- 
pied six  days  and  a half,  and  I accomplished  it  with  less  fa- 
tigue, though  with  more  bruises  than  I expected. 

Indore  is  the  capital  of  an  independent  State,  and  the 
station  of  an  English  “ Besident” — an  office  which  is  equiva- 
lent to  that  of  an  Envoy  or  Ambassador,  except  that  the 
Resident  meddles  rather  more  in  the  affairs  of  the  State  to 
which  he  is  accredited.  Mr.  Hamilton,  the  Resident  at  In- 
dore, was  absent  on  a journey,  but  I wqs  most  kindly  received 
by  Hr.  Impey,  the  Residency  Surgeon,  to  whom  I had  a let- 
ter. With  true  Indian  hospitality,  he  tools  me  at  once  to  his 


88 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


house,  where  both  he  and  his  amiable  lady  did  their  utmost  to 
make  my  sojourn  agreeable. 

Indore  is  a town  of  about  60,000  inhabitants,  having  been 
much  increased  within  a few  years  by  the  tyranny  of  the 
Begum  of  Oodjein,  a holy  old  city  about  eighty  miles  distant, 
many  of  the  inhabitants  of  which  have  emigrated  to  the  former 
place.  Portions  of  Indore  are  well  built,  reminding  me 
somewhat  of  Konia,  and  other  places  in  the  interior  of  Asia 
Minor.  The  houses  are  generally  of  wood,  two  stories  high, 
the  upper  story  projecting  and  resting  on  pillars,  so  as  to  form 
a verandah  below.  The  pillars  and  the  heavy  cornice  above 
them  are  of  dark  wood,  and  very  elaborately  carved.  In  the 
centre  of  the  town  is  the  Bajah’s  palace,  fronting  a small 
square.  It  is  a quadrangle  of  about  four  hundred  feet  to  a 
side,  the  portion  over  the  main  gateway  rising  to  the  height 
of  eighty  or  ninety  feet,  and  visible  for  many  miles  around. 
The  architecture  is  Saracenic,  though  not  of  a pure  style 
The  gateway,  however,  and  the  balconies  over  it,  are  very  ele- 
gant, and  the  main  court,  surrounded  by  i.'fty  pillars  of  dark 
wood,  connected  by  ornate  horseshoe  arches,  has  a fine  effect. 
The  outer  walls  are  covered  with  pictures  of  elephants, 
horses,  tigers,  Englishmen  and  natives,  drawn  and  colored 
with  the  most  complete  disregard  of  nature. 

On  our  way  to  the  town  one  evening,  we  met  the  Rajah 
and  his  suite,  just  setting  out  on  an  excursion  into  the  coun- 
try. He  was  attended  by  a large  retinue  of  persons,  soldiers 
dressed  in  the  European  style,  officials  in  gaudy  dresses  hold- 
ing spears  and  flags,  and  all  the  paraphernalia  of  a petty 
prince.  He  is  very  fond  of  display,  but  I must  confess  that 
the  whole  show  was  rather  picturesque  than  imposing.  I had 


THE  RAJAH  OF  INDORE. 


89 


a good  view  of  tlie  Rajah,  who  was  a young  man  of  about 
twenty,  tall  and  stQ^ut  for  his  age,  and  with  a good-humoreci 
though  not  remarkably  intelligent  face.  He  wore  a crimson 
robe,  and  a rich  silken  turban,  studded  with  jewels.  His 
story  is  quite  romantic.  Twelve  years  ago  he  was  a poor 
shepherd  boy  in  the  neighborhood  of  Mhow.  The  former 
Rajah,  Hurry  Rao  Holkar,  having  died  childless,  and  without 
any  near  relatives,  the  State  might  have  readily  fallen  into 
the  possession  of  the  East  India  Company.  Instead  of  tak- 
ing it,  however,  search  was  made  for  a successor,  and  the  poor 
shepherd  boy  was  found  to  belong  to  a remote  branch  of  the 
family.  He  was  thereupon  invested  with  the  Rajahship,  and 
Mr.  Hamilton,  the  Resident,  was  appointed  Regent  during 
his  minority. 

Notwithstanding  he  was  educated  under  English  auspices, 
the  Rajah  did  not  seem  to  have  acquired  any  English  ideas, 
except  a taste  for  horses  and  hunting.  The  only  public 
works  of  his  which  were  pointed  out  to  me,  were  a small  hos- 
pital and  school,  and  a bridge  across  the  river,  or  rather 
ravine,  on  which  Indore  is  built.  The  latter  was  a very 
substantial  structure,  of  hewn  stone,  and  cost  upwards  of 
$100,000.  The  finest  thing  I saw  in  the  place  was  a well,  built 
by  one  of  the  former  Rajahs.  It  was  a large  square  shaft,  about 
forty  feet  deep,  with  a broad  flight  of  steps  leading  down  to 
the  water,  and  cool  chambers  and  balconies  of  hewn  stone,  for 
recreation  during  the  hot  weather. 

In  riding  through  and  around  the  town,  I was  struck  with 
the  number  of  small  Hindoo  temples.  The  principal  temple  is 
adjacent  to  the  Rajah’s  palace;  but  as  Europeans  are  not  al- 
lowed to  enter,  I saw  only  the  outside.  In  the  suburbs,  how- 


90 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN, 


ever,  there  are  many  sanctuaries  erected  to  the  different  gods, 
the  most  of  them  being  open  canopies  or  domes,  resting  on  pil- 
lars, and  none  above  twenty  feet  in  height.  The  idols  are  gen- 
erally smeared  with  red  paint,  a token  that  they  have  recently 
been  worshipped.  There  were  multitudes  of  beggars,  some  of 
whom  asked  for  alms  in  the  name  of  Yishnu,  and  others  in 
the  name  of  Allah,  the  latter  being  Mussulmen.  In  one 
street  we  passed  a house  where  the  piercing  shrieks  of  a fife 
and  the  dreadful  clatter  of  a drum  announced  a marriage  fes- 
tival, and  not  far  off,  two  women,  seated  in  front  of  a door, 
howled  incessant  lamentation  for  a corpse  within:  Destruc- 
tion and  Reproduction,  both  the  attributes  of  the  god  Shiva, 
in  whose  name  a beggar  at  that  very  instant  demanded  char- 
ity. 

There  is  a picturesque  orchard  of  mango  and  date  trees 
on  the  eastern  side  of  the  town,  but  the  soil  is  too  thin  on 
the  uplands  around  it  to  support  much  vegetation.  The  gar- 
den of  the  Resident  is  artificially  made.  His  residence, 
which  I visited,  is  a stately  stone  mansion,  with  large  and 
lofty  rooms,  furnished  in  superb  style.  He  maintains  a great 
state,  which  he  may  well  do  on  a salary  of  £4,000  a year,  in 
a country  where  labor  and  the  ordinary  necessaries  of  life 
cost  next  to  nothing.  The  wages  of  a field-laborer  here  are 
two  annas  (six  cents)  a day,  he  finding  his  own  food.  Women 
receive  one  and  a half  annas,  and  boys  one  anna  daily. 
House  servants  are  better  paid,  as  they  are  obliged  to  wear 
rather  more  garments,  but,  as  each  has  his  particular  busi- 
ness, eight  or  ten  are  required  to  do  the  work  of  a small 
.family. 

I found  the  weather  unpleasantly  cold,  coming  from  the 


COLD  WEATHER. 


91 


latitude  of  Bombay.  During  tbe  nigbts  tbe  temperature  was 
so  low  that  thin  cakse  of  ice  frequently  formed  on  shallow 
pools.  From  the  supplies  thus  collected,  the  English  resi- 
dents are  furnished  with  ice  during  a part  of  the  hot  season. 


CHAPTEK  VII. 


THE  MAI  L-C  A R T. 

The  Mail-Cart — Setting  out  from  Indore— Night  Travel— Stupidity  of  the  Natl'-es— 
Mussulmen— Nearly  an  Accident — Scenery  of  the  Road— A Polite  Englishman— 
Miseries  of  the  Journey — A Tiger  Party— Budjrungurh— Goonah— A Free  Use  of 
Hospitality — The  Thugs  and  Eobhers— Second  Halt — Miss  Burroughs — Going  On — 
The  Plain  of  Hindostan— Approach  to  Agra— A Landmark. 

At  sunset  on  the  11th  of  January,  I took  leave  of  my  hos- 
pitable hosts  at  Indore,  and  again  ventured  upon  unknown 
seas.  I had  taken  passage  for  Agra  in  the  mail-cart,  a ve- 
hicle precisely  resembling  the  banghy  cart,  but  with  the  ad- 
vantage of  greater  speed.  The  distance  to  be  travelled  was 
380  miles,  and  the  fare  50  rupees,  which  is  considered  very 
cheap  in  India,  but  would  be  very  dear  in  any  other  country. 
The  average  rate  of  speed  is  from  eight  to  nine  miles  an  hour, 
so  that  the  mail  reaches  Agra  in  a little  more  than  two  days 
from  Indore;  but  as  few  mortal  frames  would  be  equal  to 
such  work,  travellers  are  allowed  to  make  the  journey  in  sev- 
eral stages,  by  stopping  at  any  of  the  dawk  bungalows  on 
the  road  and  waiting  for  the  next  day’s  mail. 

The  mail  cart  is  propelled  by  two  horses,  one  of  which  is 
an  outrigger.  This  facilitates  the  ascent  of  slight  elevations 


NIGHT  TRAVEL. 


93 


in  the  road,  except  when  the  two  animals  choose  to  move  in 
different  directions,  which  is  by  no  means  a rare  occurrence. 
However,  I found  that  I could  retain  my  position  on  the  box 
without  holding  fast  with  both  hands,  and  this  was  a great 
improvement  on  the  banghy  cart.  We  set  off  at  a full  gallop, 
over  a hard,  well  beaten  road,  and  through  a rolling,  open 
country.  The  twilight  died  away  and  the  young  moon  went 
down  before  we  reached  Dewas,  twenty-four  miles  from  In- 
dore, and  thenceforth  we  galloped  by  starlight.  Ever  the 
same  rolling  upland,  thinly  inhabited  and  scantily  cultivated ; 
broad  belts  of  jungle,  more  dreary  and  stunted  than  in  the 
regions  south  of  the  Nerbudda,  and  crossed  by  frequent 
abrupt  nullas.  Occasionally  we  passed  low  ranges  of  stony 
hills,  where  the  rate  of  our  speed  caused  a most  intolerable 
jolting.  The  native  villages,  slumbering  under  the  broad 
arms  of  peepul  and  banyan  trees,  were  picturesque  enough  in 
the  gloom,  which  hid  their  dirt  and  deformity,  while  the  gro- 
tesque cones  of  their  temples  were  the  only  objects  that 
showed  with  any  distinctness.  The  silent  driver  always  blew 
a discordant  blast  on  his  horn  while  passing  through  these 
villages,  and  on  approaching  the  post-stations,  which  are  from 
five  to  seven  miles  apart.  We  always  found  a few  sleepy 
grooms  in  waiting  with  the  fresh  horses,  which  were  slowly 
harnessed  to  our  cart,  and  after  going  through  their  exercise 
of  backing  and  rearing,  sprang  forward  with  a galvanic  start, 
and  an  impetus  which  did  not  cease  until  we  rew  up  at  the 
next  post. 

Thus  the  night  wore  away.  My  only  amusement  was  in 
watching  the  Great  Bear,  as  he  slowly  wheeled  around  the 
pole-star,  for  in  my  previous  watches  I had  learned  to 


94 


IlfDIAj  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


measure  the  nours  of  the  night  by  his  progress.  The  drivei 
now  and  then  made  a remark,  very  profound,  no  doubt,  if  I 
had  understood  it.  I always  assented,  to  avoid  discussion, 
which  would  have  been  embarrassing,  and  if  he  addressed 
a question  to  me,  invariably  answered:  “I  don’t  know.” 
There  is  no  use  in  telling  these  people  that  you  don’t  under- 
stand their  language,  for  they  jabber  away  to  you  just  the 
same  as  ever.  It  is  much  better  to  make  a short  and  despotic 
use  of  the  few  words  you  know,  and  restrict  the  conversation 
to  those  remarks  which  are  indispensable.  As  we  proceeded 
northward,  I noticed  that  Arabic  words  were  frequently  used. 
The  form  of  salutation  was  the  usual  “ salaam  aleikoom”  of 
the  East,  and  the  driver  exclaimed,  each  time  that  he  mounted 
the  cart:  “in  the  name  of  the  most  merciful  God.”  In  ad- 
dition to  this,  he  frequently  touched  the  rim  of  the  wheel  and 
his  forehead  alternately  several  times  with  his  fore-finger — pro- 
bably as  a charm  to  prevent  accidents,  and  I devoutly  hoped 
' it  might  be  efficacious,  for  we  had  no  other  safeguard.  Had 
the  axle  snapped,  as  in  the  case  of  the  banghy-cart,  I should 
not  have  gotten  off  so  easily. 

When  morning  came,  there  was  so  little  change  in  the 
features  of  the  landscape  that  I could  have  believed  myself 
still  in  sight  of  Indore,  and  yet  we  had  made  more  than  a 
hundred  miles  during  the  night.  I was  quite  benumbed 
from  the  coldness  of  the  air,  and  began  to  feel  the  effects  of 
the  jolts  I had  undergone.  Soon  after  sunrise  the  driver  dis- 
covered that  one  of  the  linch-pins  was  broken  off,  so  that  the 
wheel  kept  its  place  from  mere  force  of  habit.  He  asked  me 
whether  he  should  proceed,  but  as  I knew  he  only  put  the 
question  for  form’s  sake,  since  the  mail  could  not  be  detained 


SCENERY  OF  THE  ROAD. 


95 


I told  him  to  drive  on,  which  he  did,  “ in  the  name  of  the 
most  merciful  God.”  Our  speed,  after  this,  was  more  furious 
than  before,  and  a mad  gallop  of  six  miles,  during  which  I 
constantly  kept  myself  braced  in  an  attitude  to  spring  out, 
brought  us  to  the  next  post,  where  we  were  fortunate  enough 
to  find  a substitute  for  the  pin.  During  the  day  we  passed 
two  mail-carts,  lying  by  the  road-side,  with  their  axles  broken 

Nothing  could  exceed  the  monotony  of  the  scenery,  which 
while  the  dry  season  lasts,  wears  a bleak  and  desolate  aspect. 
During  the  rains,  when  the  soil  is  hidden  under  a deluge  of 
herbage,  and  the  ragged  shrubbery  of  the  jungles  starts  into 
new  bloom  and  foliage,  it  must  present  a very  different 
appearance.  Except  in  the  sheltered  hollows,  where  the 
palm  still  flourished,  there  was  no  token  of  a tropical  climate. 
I found  more  interest  in  observing  the  crowds  of  natives  whom 
we  met  on  the  road.  In  addition  to  the  different  Indian  races, 
who  had  now  become  tolerably  familiar  to  me,  there  were  oc- 
casionally men  of  taller  stature,  lighter  complexion,  and  a 
bold,  unsubmissive  expression  of  face,  whom  I took  to  be 
Sikhs  or  Affghans 

About  noon  we  reached  a place  called  Bursud,  where  there 
was  a traveller’s  bungalow,  occupied  by  an  English  family.  A 
lady  was  standing  in  the  verandah,  and  I took  off  my  hat  to  her 
as  we  passed.  Politeness  is  its  own  reward,  for  no  sooner  had 
we  stopped  to  change  horses,  than  the  lady’s  husband  made  hig 
appearance,  and  very  politely  asked  me  to  take  some  refresh 
ments.  The  invitation  was  timely,  for  the  appetite  of  a hun- 
gry man  is  not  satisfied  with  biscuits  (which  was  all  my  store), 
but  I had  determined  to  reach  Goonah,  half-way  to  Agra,  be- 
fore resting,  and  could  not  detain  the  mail.  I only  men 


96 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


tion  the  circumstance  as  another  instance  of  the  hospitality 
of  the  English  in  India. 

By  this  time  I was  in  that  feverish  and  excitable  condition 
which  shows  that  one’s  powers  of  endurance  are  beginning  to 
give  way.  I was  bruised  and  shaken  from  head  to  foot, 
racked  with  aches  and  pains,  and  above  all  exquisitely  tor- 
tured by  a small  iron  rod  which  ran  around  the  box  whereon 
we  sat,  to  prevent  our  being  thrown  into  the  road.  The  mark 
of  that  rod  was  imprinted  on  my  flesh  for  days  afterwards. 
During  the  afternoon  we  came  into  a hilly  country  where 
the  road  was  a little  better,  and  I experienced  some  relief. 
The  hills  were  covered  with  jungle,  but  there  was  cultivation 
in  the  valleys  between,  especially  about  the  little  town  of  Ba- 
googurh,  which  is  the  residence  of  a Bajah.  It  is  a walled 
town  of  rectangular  form,  with  round  towers  at  the  corners, 
but  the  walls  have  tumbled  down  in  various  places,  making 
unsightly  breaches  and  disclosing  the  poverty  of  the  dwellings 
within. 

A short  distance  further  we  overtook  a large  concourse  of 
natives,  all  of  whom  carried  long  bamboo  poles  in  their  hands 
Among  them  were  several  cheprassees,  or  G-overnment  ser- 
vants, and  two  or  three  sepoys.  They  all  drew  up  in  a line 
on  each  side  of  the  road,  making  the  most  profound  salaams 
as  I passed  between  their  ranks.  I was  at  a loss  to  understand 
this  display  until,  at  the  end  of  the  concourse,  I came  upon  a 
magnificent  elephant  (the  largest  I ever  saw),  when  I decided 
that  these  must  be  the  attendants  of  the  Bajah  of  Bagoo- 
gurh.  The  whole  thing  was  explained,  however,  by  the  ap- 
pearance of  two  English  gentlemen  and  some  attendants  car- 
rying a wild  boar.  They  had  been  out  tiger  hunting,  and  the 


A TIGER-HUNTER BDDJRUNGURGH. 


97 


crowd  of  natives  with  bamboos  were  the  “ beaters,”  who  are 
employed  in  India,  instead  of  dogs,  to  sweep  the  jungles  and 
start  the  beasts  from  their  coverts.  One  of  the  gentlemen, 
I afterwards  learned,  was  one  of  the  most  noted  tiger  slayers 
in  the  country,  and  had  just  recovered  from  being  dreadfully 
mangled  by  a panther,  an  accident  which  had  lamed  him  for 
life.  He  had  suffered  fever,  lockjaw,  paralysis  and  partial 
mortification,  yet  outlived  them  all,  to  the  amazement  of 
every  body  and  the  dismay  of  the  tigers. 

At  the  mouth  of  a wide  bay  formed  by  the  hills  is  the 
town  of  Budjrungurh,  which,  according  to  an  itinerary  of  tlie 
road,  is  the  residence  of  one  of  Scindiah’s  pundits ; so  that, 
if  I had  not  the  satisfaction  of  beholding  a learned  Pundit,  I 
at  least  saw  his  habitation.  The  town  is  perched  on  a tongue 
of  land  which  shoots  out  from  the  hills,  dropping  into  a preci- 
pice of  naked  red  rock  on  three  sides.  With  its  tottering 
walls,  and  the  tall,  parabolic  domes  of  a cluster  of  temples 
on  the  plain  below,  it  made  a striking  picture  in  passing. 
There  was  now  but  one  more  stage  to  Goonah,  and  after  pass- 
ing the  shoulder  of  the  hill  beyond  Budjrungurh,  I saw  in 
the  distance  the  goal  for  which  I had  been  so  ardently  long- 
ing. Its  thatched  houses,  half  hidden  in  groves  of  tamarind 
and  date-palm,  beckoned  to  me  across  a broad  plain  of  wheat 
and  poppies,  which  basked  in  the  warm  light  of  the  descend- 
ing sun.  In  half  an  hour  I dismounted  in  the  bazaar,  having 
travelled  185  miles  in  less  than  twenty-four  hours. 

The  traveller’s  bungalow  was  occupied  by  an  invalided 
officer,  who  had  charge  of  keeping  the  post-stations  in  order. 
There  was  a spare  room,  which  I at  once  appropriated,  and 
throwing  myself  upon  the  bare  charpoy  bedstead,  fell  asleep. 

5 


98 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


I was  aroused  by  a native,  whom  I took  to  be  the  kbitmudgar 
of  the  bungalow,  and  who  delivered  himself  of  several  unin- 
telligible sentences.  I thereupon  went  to  the  officer’s  room, 
and  with  an  apology  for  my  intrusion,  begged  him  to  interpret 
for  me.  “ Why,”  said  the  captain,  “ he  says  you  have  only  to 
order  what  you  like  for  dinner — beef-steak,  mutton  cliops, 
sherry,  brandy  or  beer.”  Here  is  truly  a model  bungalow, 
I thought.  “ Will  you  tell  him,”  I asked,  “ to  get  me  the 
best  dinner  he  can,  and  a bottle  of  beer,  as  soon  as  possible?” 
“ The  dinner  is  ready,”  said  the  servant ; which  means  that 
you  will  get  it  in  three  hours,  and  in  just  that  time  it  was 
brought  to  me.  But  the  next  day  I discovered,  accidentally, 
that  the  man  I had  taken  for  the  kbitmudgar  was  the  cap- 
tain’s own  servant,  and  that  the  worthy  officer  had  simply  trans- 
lated his  own  hospitable  message  to  me ! 

An  English  Lieutenant,  who  was  encamped  in  the  village 
with  a company  of  sepoys,  came  up  and  spent  the  evening 
with  me.  He  was  born  in  India,  and  I was  the  second  Ame- 
rican he  had  ever  seen.  He  invited  me  strongly  to  stop  the 
next  evening  at  Meeana,  where  he  proposed  to  encamp,  and 
promised  to  prepare  refreshments  for  me.  He  moved  away 
early  in  the  morning,  and  as  I could  not  stop  at  Meeana,  I saw 
him  no  more.  The  mail-cart  came  along  the  next  day  about 
two  p.  M.,  and  as  I had  spent  all  the  morning  in  sleep,  I felt 
ready  to  undertake  the  latter  half  of  the  journey.  When  I 
called  the  true  kbitmudgar,  in  order  to  pay  him  for  my  meals, 
he  declared  that  I owed  him  nothing,  for  every  thing  had 
been  sent  to  me  by  the  “ captain-sahib.”  I then  went  to  the 
latter,  explained  my  mistake  and  apologized  for  my  appar- 
ent rudeness,  fcr  any  other  course  was  out  of  the  question. 


THE  THUGS. 


**  Pshaw ! ” said  the  Captain,  bluntly  : “ don’t  say  a word.  As 
long  as  I live  in  the  bungalow,  travellers  are  of  course  my 
guests.” 

My  host,  moreover,  warned  me  against  a frightful  nulla,  or 
gully,  in  which  the  mail-cart  was  upset  a few  days  before,  and 
the  driver’s  thigh  broken.  Night  came  on  before  we  reached 
the  locailty,  but  though  we  crossed  a number  of  deep  nullas, 
I could  not  discover  the  scene  of  the  accident.  Robbers  are 
plentiful  in  this  part  of  the  country,  and  even  the  mail-cart 
had  just  been  plundered.  All  the  region  between  Indore 
and  Agra,  was  once  noted  as  being  the  principal  haunt 
of  the  Thugs,  or  Stranglers.  The  system  is  now  almost  if 
not  wholly  extinct ; at  least,  the  Thugs  no  longer  dare  to 
practise  their  horrid  trade  upon  Europeans.  This  is  owing  to 
the  vigorous  measures  adopted  by  the  Government,  which 
has  lately  taken  up  the  task  of  suppressing  infanticide,  and 
will,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  be  equally  successful. 

Not  to  tire  the  reader  with  too  many  details  of  my  prog- 
ress, I will  only  state  that  about  ten  o’clock  that  evening  I 
reached  a village  called  Tongra,  on  the  banks  of  a small  lake, 
and  was  there  obliged  to  halt  another  day,  on  account  of  the 
seat  thence  to  Agra  having  been  previously  engaged  by  an 
English  officer.  The  rest  was  not  unwelcome,  and  the  silent  and 
attentive  khitmudgar  was  a capital  purveyor.  On  leaving, 
I indorsed  the  opinion  of  Miss  Burroughs,  who  wrote  in  the 
traveller’s  book  that  this  was  the  only  bungalow  worthy  of 
the  name.  I was  pleased  to  see  that  all  travellers  since  her 
time  had  done  the  same,  for  several  pages  were  thickly  stud- 
ded with:  “ Ditto  to  Miss  Burroughs.” 

At  the  same  hour  on  the  following  evening  the  mail-cart 


100 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


came,  and  away  we  galloped  over  rolling  uplands,  through  wastes 
of  jungle,  and  across  umberless  nullas.  Thus  the  chill,  uncom- 
fortable night  passed  away.  The  rising  sun  showed  a barren 
valley,  shut  in  by  brown  hills,  covered  with  long  grass  and 
sand>  Climbing  out  of  this  valley  upon  a bleak  eminence,  I 
saw  like  a boundless  sea  before  me,  the  great  Plain  of  Hin- 
dostan — that  vast,  alluvial  level,  which  extends  without  a 
break  from  Calcutta  to  the  Indus.  We  now  entered  on  a 
richer  and  more  cheerful  region.  The  villages  were  embow- 
ered in  tamarind  and  sycamore  trees,  and  with  the  exception 
of  occasional  belts  of  sand,  the  plain  was  well  cultivated. 
We  were  ferried  across  the  Chumbul,  the  principal  affluent  of 
the  Jumna — a shallow  river,  nearly  half  a mile  in  breadth,  and 
flowing  at  the  bottom  of  a deep  bed  which  it  has  worn  for  itself 
in  the  sandy  soil. 

Passing  Dholpore,  the  residence  of  a Rajah,  and  Jajow,  a 
picturesque  old  place,  with  a handsome  mosque  and  serai,  we 
rapidly  approached  Agra.  I looked  forward  to  the  distant 
belt  of  trees  which  hid  the  city,  with  the  sensation  of  a man, 
who,  after  drifting  for  days  on  a dangerous  sea,  approaches  a 
safe  harbor.  At  last,  a snow-white  dome  stood  suddenly  on 
the  horizon,  and  I hailed  the  renowned  Taj  Mahal,  for  I knew 
it  could  be  none  other.  There  was  Agra,  the  City  of  AkbaP; 
and  I — to  borrow  the  words  of  Eothen — I had  lived  to  see, 
and  I saw  it. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


THE  CITY  OF  AKBAR. 

Akbarabad — The  Modern  City — The  English  Cantonments — Rev.  Mr.  Warren — The 
Fort  of  Agra — The  Jumma  Musjeed — Entering  the  Fort — Judgment-Seat  of  the 
Emperor — The  Gates  of  Somnauth — Akbar’s  Palace — Splendor  of  its  Decorations — 
The  Palace  of  Glass — A Cracked  Throne— The  Pearl  Mosque — Tomb  of  Akbar,  at 
Secundra — An  Indian  Landscape — Saracenic  Art — Mission  Printing-OfiBce — The 
American  Missions — The  Agra  Jail — Dr.  Walker’s  System  of  Education — Arithme- 
tic in  Chorus — Effect  of  the  System. 

Agra  is  still  called-  by  the  natives  Akbarabad — the  City 
of  Akbar — from  the  renowned  Emperor  to  whom  it  owes  its 
origin.  All  its  former  splendor  grew  up  under  his  reign, 
and  all  its  architectural  remains,  except  the  Taj  Mahal,  date 
from  his  time.  In  this  respect  it  differs  from  Delhi,  which, 
although  still  called  by  the  Mohammedans  Shahjehanabad, 
(from  Shah  Jehan,  the  grandson  of  Akbar),  is  more  especially 
the  capital  of  the  Mogul  Emperors,  and  bears  the  memo- 
rials of  many  successive  reigns.  Yet  I doubt  whether  their 
combined  feebler  lights  can  equal  the  sunlike  lustre  of  Ak- 
bar’s name,  and  whether  their  city,  with  all  its  stores  of  his- 
toric associations,  can  so  interest  and  attract  the  traveller  as 
this,  the  capital  of  the  greatest  man  who  ever  ruled  in  India. 


102 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


The  modern  city  is  not  even  the  shadow  of  the  ancient 
capital.  That  has  wholly  passed  away,  except  the  Fort — a city 
in  itself — and  some  ruined  palaces  on  the  bank  of  the  Jumna. 
But  for  nearly  twm  miles  in  every  direction,  the  mounds,  re- 
mains of  walls  and  other  indications  of  habitations  are  abun- 
dant. Much  more  w^as  to  be  seen  a few  years  ago  than  at 
present,  but  as  the  old  bricks  w'ere  constantly  taken  to  con- 
struct new  buildings,  these  vestiges  gradually  disappeared. 
The  population,  which  once  numbered  more  than  half  a mill- 
ion, has  dwindled  to  about  70,000,  and  the  native  city  has 
little  more  to  interest  the  traveller  than  any  ordinary  Indian 
town — Indore,  for  instance.  There  is  one  principal  street, 
passing  through  its  whole  length  to  the  gates  of  the  Fort,  and 
in  this  are  situated  the  residences  of  the  wealthier  inhabitants, 
which  are  generally  of  brick  or  red  sandstone.  The  veran- 
dahs and  hanging  balconies,  with  their  exquisite  Saracenic 
arches,  carved  ornaments  and  stone  lattice-work,  remind  one 
of  Cairo.  The  street  is  also  a sort  of  bazaar,  and  during  the 
day  presents  a very  busy  and  animated  scene.  It  is  so  narrow 
that  two  vehicles  can  with  difficulty  pass,  while  all  the  other 
streets  of  the  city  are  only  attainable  by  pedestrians.  On 
the  side  facing  the  Jumna  there  are  few  striking  buildings 
except  the  Custom-House,  once  the  palace  of  -a  rich  native. 
Stone  ghauts,  here  and  there,  lead  down  to  the  holy  stream, 
which  at  the  time  of  my  visit  was  so  much  diminished  by  the 
dry  season  that  it  did  not  occupy  more  than  one-third  of  its 
bed. 

South  of  the  city  are  the  cantonments,  divided  into  the 
civil  and  military  lines,  and  occupying  a space  of  five  miles  in 
length  by  nearly  two  in  breadth.  The  bungalows  of  the  Eng- 


THE  CANTONMENTS — MR.  WARREN. 


103 


lish  residents  are  neat,  cottage-like  buildings  of  one  story, 
with  steep,  thatched  roofs.  Each  stands  in  its  own  “ com- 
pound,” or  enclosure,  so  that  the  cantonments  present  a truly 
suburban  aspect.  Broad  roads,  as  smooth  and  hard  as  a floor, 
run  in  all  directions,  and  offer  admirable  drives  to  the  inhabi- 
tants, whose  buggies  may  be  seen  at  all  hours  of  the  day, 
dashing  back  and  forth.  A spacious  square,  planted  with 
young  trees,  is  called  the  Park,  and  beyond  this  rises  the  lofty 
spire  of  the  English  Church.  The  various  public  buildings 
— the  Bank,  the  Post-office,  the  Government  House,  and 
others,  are  distinguished  from  the  private  residences  by  their 
size,  but  have  little  pretension  to  architectural  beauty. 

On  entering  Agra  I was  taken  to  the  traveller’s  bungalow, 
which  stands  on  a waste  plat  of  ground,  adjoining  the  Park. 
The  succeeding  day  was  so  cold,  dull  and  rainy,  that  I re- 
mained indoors,  and  rested  my  shattered  frame.  Mr.  Thom- 
asson,  the  Governor  of  the  north-Avestern  provinces,  to  whom 
I had  letters,  was  absent  at  Benares,  but  I was  most  hospi- 
tably received  by  Rev.  Mr.  Warren,  an  American  Mission- 
ary, under  whose  roof  I sojourned  during  my  stay.  Undei 
his  guidance,  and  that  of  Mr.  Hutton,  the  Editor  of  The 
Agra  Messenger^  I visited  all  the  objects  of  interest  in  the 
city  and  vicinity. 

The  Fort,  which  contains  the  Palace  of  Akbar,  and  the 
celebrated  Motee  Musjeed  or  Pearl  Mosque,  is  one  of  the 
grandest  structures  of  the  kind  in  India.  It  is  about  a mile 
and  a half  in  circuit,  and  its  stately,  embrasured  battlements 
of  red  sandstone  are  seventy  feet  in  height.  Nothing  can  be 
more  imposing  than  the  view  of  this  immense  mass  of  masonry, 
rising  high  above  the  buildings  of  the  modern  city,  and  almost 


104 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


overtopping  the  domes  of  the  Jumma  Musjeed  (Sunday 
mosque),  which  stands  without  its  gates.  Its  appearance,  nev- 
ertheless, is  very  deceptive  with  regard  to  its  strength,  for  the 
walls,  impregnable  as  they  look,  are  mere  shells,  and  would 
not  stand  a single  day’s  cannonading. 

Before  entering  the  Fort,  I visited  the  Jumma  Musjeed. 
The  front  of  the  mosque  faces  the  principal  gate,  a broad,  en- 
closed square,  which  is  now  used  as  a market-place,  interven- 
ing between.  The  mosque  stands  on  a lofty  platform,  which 
is  reached  by  a spacious  flight  of  steps.  In  India  all  places 
of  worship,  except  the  inner  shrines — the  holy  of  holies — 
are  open  to  the  conquerors,  who  walk  in,  booted  and  spurred, 
where  the  Hindoo  and  Moslem  put  their  shoes  from  off  their 
feet.  I should  willingly  have  complied  with  this  form,  as  I 
did  in  other  Moslem  countries,  but  was  told  that  it  was  now 
never  expected  of  a European,  and  wmuld  be  in  fact  a depre- 
ciation of  his  dignity.  The  Jumma  Musjeed  is  a melancholy 
picture  of  ruin.  The  walls  which  enclose  the  fore-court  are 
tumbling  down,  and  the  inlaid  inscriptions  which  surround  the 
fa9ade  are  falling  out,  piece  by  piece.  The  body  of  the  mosque 
is  divided  into  a central  and  two  smaller  side-halls,  each  of 
which  opens  upon  the  court-yard  by  a lofty,  arched  portal,  and 
is  surmounted  by  a swelling  oriental  dome,  of  corresponding 
proportions.  India  being  east  of  Mecca,  the  mosque  of 
course  occupies  the  western  side  of  the  court,  and  at  each  of 
the  adjacent  corners  rises  a lofty  and  graceful  minaret.  This 
is  the  plan  on  which  all  Indian  mosques  are  built,  and  they  vary 
in  architectural  beauty  according  as  the  portals,  the  domes  and 
minarets  approach  a true  artistic  proportion. 

Crossing  by  a drawbridge  over  the  deep  moat  which  sur- 


THE  JUDGMENT-SEAT  OF  AKBAR. 


105 


rounds  the  Fort,  we  passed  through  a massive  gateway  and 
up  a paved  ascent  to  the  inner  entrance,  which  shows  consid' 
erable  taste.  It  consists  of  two  octagonal  towers  of  red  sand- 
stone, inlaid  with  ornamental  designs  in  white  marble.  The 
passage  between  them  is  covered  by  two  domes,  which  seem 
to  rise  from  accretions  of  prismatic  stalactites,  as  in  the 
domes  of  the  Moorish  Alhambra.  This  elegant  portal,  how- 
ever, instead  of  opening  upon  the  courts  of  palaces,  ushers 
you  into  a waste  of  barren  mounds,  covered  with  withered  grass. 
But  over  the  blank  red  walls  in  front,  you  see  three  marble 
domes,  glittering  in  the  sunshine  like  new-fallen  snow,  and 
still  further,  the  golden  pinnacles  of  Akbar’s  palace,  and  these 
objects  hint  that  your  dream  of  the  magnificence  of  the  Great 
Mogul  will  not  be  entirely  dispelled. 

But  first,  let  us  visit  the  modern  Arsenal,  which  was  once 
the  diwan,  or  Judgment-seat  of  Akbar.  It  was  formerly  an 
open  portico,  or  loggia^  the  roof  resting  on  three  rows  of  pil- 
lars, which  were  connected  by  Saracenic  arches ; but  at  present, 
the  outer  row  of  arches  being  walled  up,  it  forms  a spacious 
hall,  divided  into  three  aisles.  All  the  weapons  of  modern 
warfare,  with  here  and  there  a crooked  scimetar  or  battle-axe, 
of  ancient  times,  are  ranged  round  the  pillars  and  between  the 
arches  in  those  symmetrical  groupings  peculiar  to  instruments 
of  death.  At  the  intersections  of  the  central  arches  hang  tri- 
colored banners  of  red,  blue  and  yellow,  with  the  names  of  the 
British  victories  in  India  inscribed  upon  them  in  English  and 
Sanscrit.  The  great  curiosity,  however,  is  the  celebrated 
gate  of  Soranauth,  which  was  carried  off  by  that  stern  icono- 
clast, Sultan  Mahmoud  of  Ghuznee.  Somnauth  was  a holy 
Brahminical  city  on  the  coast  of  Goojerat,  and  noted  at  that 
5* 


106 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


time  for  the  wealth  and  magnificence  of  its  temples.  It  is  re- 
lated  of  Mahmoud,  that,  after  having  taken  the  city  and  com* 
menced  demolishing  the  idols,  the  Brahmins  ofifered  him  im- 
mense sums  if  he  would  spare  the  deity  of  their  great  tem- 
ple. Mahmoud  was  only  tempted  for  an  instant.  “ Truth,” 
he  said,  “ is  better  than  gold,”  and  raising  his  iron  mace,  he 
smote  the  idol,  which,  as  it  split,  poured  from  its  hollow  body 
a store  of  gold  and  jewels  far  exceeding  what  the  Brahmins 
had  offered  him.  This  incident  has  afibrded  subject  for  poetry 
to  Biickert,  the  German  poet,  and  our  own  Lowell. 

The  gates  were  taken  by  Mahmoud  to  his  capital  of  Ghuz- 
nee,  where  they  remained  until  the  recent  invasion  of  Aff- 
ghanistan  by  the  English,  when  that  fantastic  individual. 
Lord  Ellenborough,  bore  them  off  to  Agra.  They  are  about 
twelve  feet  high,  elaborately  carved  and  inlaid,  and  said  to  bo 
composed  entirely  of  sandal-wood.  On  one  of  the  panels, 
three  metal  bosses  are  nailed.  According  to  tradition,  they 
were  taken  from  Mahmoud’s  shield.  In  the  centre  of  the 
hall  is  the  throne  whence  Akbar  pronounced  judgment,  after 
the  cases  had  been  discussed  in  his  presence.  It  is  a pavilion 
of  white  marble,  inlaid  with  jasper  and  cornelian,  in  the  form 
of  flowers,  ornamental  scrolls  and  sentences  from  the  Koran. 
Below  it  is  an  immense  slab  of  white  marble,  on  which  he 
was  accustomed  to  seat  himself. 

Beyond  the  arsenal,  and  in  that  part  of  the  Fort  over- 
looking the  Jumna,  is  the  *n.onarch’s  palace,  still  in  a toler- 
able state  of  preservation.  Without  a ground-plan  it  would 
be  difficult  to  describe  in  detail  its  many  courts,  its  separate 
masses  of  buildings  and  ii»  detached  pavilions — which  com- 
bine to  form  a labyrinth,  so  full  of  dazzling  architectural  ef- 


akbar’s  palace— its  splendor. 


107 


fects,  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  keep  the  clue.  On  en- 
tering the  outer  courts,  I was  at  once  reminded  of  the  Alham- 
bra. Here  were  the  same  elegant  Moorish  arches,  with  their 
tapering  bases  of  open  filigree  work  resting  on  slender  double 
shafts — a style  so  light,  airy  and  beautiful,  that  it  seems  fit 
only  for  a palace  of  fairies.  Akbar’s  palace  is  far  more  com- 
plete than  the  Alhambra.  No  part  has  been  utterly  de- 
stroyed, and  the  marks  of  injury  by  Time  and  battle,  are  com- 
paratively slight.  Here  a cannon-ball  has  burst  its  way 
through  the  marble  screen  of  the  Sultana’s  pavilion  ; there  an 
inlaid  blossom  of  cornelian,  with  leaves  of  blood-stone,  has 
been  wantonly  dug  out  of  its  marble  bed ; the  fountains  are 
dry,  the  polished  tank  in  the  “ Bath  of  Mirrors  ” is  empty, 
the  halls  are  untenanted — but  this  is  all.  No  chamber,  no 
window  or  staircase  is  w^anting,  and  we  are  able  to  re-people 
the  palace  with  the  household  of  the  great  Emperor,  and  to 
trace  out  the  daily  routine  of  his  duties  and  pleasures. 

The  substructions  of  the  palace  are  of  red  sandstone,  but 
nearly  the  whole  of  its  corridors,  chambers  and  pavilions  are 
of  white  marble,  wrought  with  the  most  exquisite  elaboration 
of  ornament.  The  pavilions  overhanging  the  river  are  inlaid, 
within  and  without,  in  the  rich  style  of  Florentine  mosaic. 
They  are  precious  caskets  of  marble,  glittering  all  over  with 
jasper,  agate,  cornelian,  blood-stone  and  lapis-lazuli,  and 
topped  with  golden  domes.  Balustrades  of  marble,  wrought  in 
open  patterns  of  such  rich  design  that  they  resemble  fringes 
of  lace  when  seen  from  below,  extend  along  the  edge  of  the 
battlements.  The  Jumna  washes  the  walls;  seventy  feet  be- 
low, and  from  the  balconies  attached  to  the  zenana,  or  wom- 
en’s apartments,  there  are  beautiful  views  of  the  gardens  and 


108 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


palm-groves  on  the  opposite  bank,  and  that  wonder  of  India, 
the  Taj,  shining  like  a palace  of  ivory  and  crystal,  about  a 
mile  down  the  strearal 

The  most  curious  part  of  the  palace  is  the  Sheesh  Mahal 
(Palace  of  Glass),  which  is  an  oriental  bath,  the  chambers  and 
passages  whereof  are  adorned  with  thousands  of  small  mir- 
rors, disposed  in  the  most  intricate  designs.  The  water  falls 
in  a broad  sheet  into  the  marble  pool,  over  brilliant  lamps, 
and  the  fountains  are  so  constructed  as  to  be  lighted  from 
within.  Mimic  cascades  tumble  from  the  walls,  over  slabs  of 
veined  marble,  into  basins  so  curiously  carved  that  the  motion 
of  the  water  produces  the  appearance  of  fish.  This  bath  must 
once  have  realized  all  the  fabled  splendors  of  Arabian  story. 
The  chambers  of  the  Sultanas  and  the  open  courts  connecting 
them  are  filled  with  fountains.  Though  the  building  is  an  in- 
crustation of  gold,  marble,  and  precious  stones,  water  is  still 
its  most  beautiful  ornament.  Within  these  fairy  precincts 
lie  the  gardens,  still  overrun  with  roses  and  jasmine  vines,  in  the 
midst  of  which  fountains  are  playing.  There  is  also  a court, 
paved  with  squares  of  black  and  white  marble,  so  as  to  form 
a pachisi  board.  This  is  a game  resembling  backgammon,  but, 
instead  of  ivory  pieces,  it  was  played  on  this  colossal  board 
by  Akbar  and  his  wives,  or  eunuchs,  with  girls,  who  trotted 
from  square  to  square  as  the  moves  were  made. 

On  an  open  terrace  in  front  of  the  Diwan  e^Khaz,  where 
Akbar  sat  on  great  occasions,  is  his  throne,  a slab  of  black 
marble,  about  six  feet  square.  It  is  cracked  entirely  through, 
which  my  old  guide  accounted  for  by  saying  that  when  the 
Mahrattas  took  Agra,  the  Rajah  of  Bhurtpore  seated  himself 
on  the  throne,  whereupon  it  not  only  cracked  from  side  to 


THE  PEARL  MOSQUE. 


109 


side,  but  blood  gushed  out  of  its  top,  in  two  places.  When 
Lord  Ellenborougb  was  Goveruer-General  of  India,  he  also 
sat  upon  it,  causing  it  to  shed  blood  a second  time.  There  are 
two  red  stains  on  its  surface,  which  sufficiently  attest  these 
miracles  to  all  good  Mussulmen.  Opposite  the  throne  is  a 
smaller  one  of  white  marble,  where,  if  tradition  may  be  re- 
lied on,  the  Emperor’s  fool,  or  jester,  took  his  place  and  bur- 
lesqued his  master. 

Before  leaving  the  Fort,  I visited  the  Motee  Musjeed,  or 
Pearl  Mosque,  as  it  is  poetically  and  justly  termed.  It  is,  in 
truth,  the  pearl  of  all  mosques,  of  small  dimensions,  but  abso- 
lutely perfect  in  style  and  proportions.  It  is  lifted  on  a 
lofty  sandstone  platform,  and. from  without  nothing  can  be 
seen  but  its  three  domes  of  white  marble  with  their  gilded 
spires.  In  all  distant  views  of  the  Fort  these  domes  are  seen, 
like  silvery  bubbles  which  have  rested  a moment  on  its  walls, 
and  which  the  next  breeze  will  sweep  away.  Ascending  a 
long  flight  of  steps,  a heavy  door  was  opened  for  me,  and  I 
stood  in  the  court-yard  of  the  mosque.  Here,  nothing  was 
to  be  seen  but  the  quadrangle  of  white  marble,  with  the  mosque 
on  its  western  side,  and  the  pure  blue  of  the  sky  overhead. 
The  three  domes  crown  a deep  corridor,  open  toward  the 
court,  and  divided  into  three  aisles  by  a triple  row  of  the 
most  exquisitely  proportioned  Saracenic  arches.  The  Motee 
Musjeed  can  be  compared  to  no  other  ediflce  that  I have  ever  seen. 
To  my  eye  it  is  a perfect  type  of  its  class.  While  its  architec- 
ture is  the  purest  Saracenic,  which  some  suppose  cannot  ex- 
ist without  ornament,  it  shows  the  severe  simplicity  of  Doric 
art.  It  has,  in  fact,  nothing  which  can  properly  be  termed 
ornament.  It  is  a sanctuary  so  pure  and  stainless,  revealing 


no 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


BO  exalted  a spirit  of  worship  that  I felt  humbled^  as  a Chris- 
tian, to  think  that  our  nobler  religion  has  so  rarely  inspired  its 
architects  to  surpass  this  temple  to  God  and  Mohammed. 

After  visiting  the  palace,  Mr.  Warren  accompanied  me  to 
the  tomb  of  Akbar,  at  Secundra,  about  six  miles  from  Agra. 
Secundra  takes  its  name  from  Alexander,  whose  invasion  of 
India  has  thus  been  commemorated  by  the  Moguls.  The 
great  Macedonian,  however,  did  not  penetrate  so  far  as  this, 
his  battle  with  Porus  having  been  fought  on  the  ■ Jhelum,  or 
Hydaspes,  beyond  Lahore.  The  road  to  Secundra  is  studded 
with  tombs,  and  there  are  many  remains  of  palaces  on  the 
bank  of  the  Jumna.  • The  tomb  of  Akbar  stands  in  the  midst 
of  a large  square  garden,  which  has  a lofty  gateway  of  red 
sandstone  in  the  centre  of  each  of  its  sides.  From  these  four 
gateways,  which  are  upward  of  seventy  feet  high,  four  grand 
causeways  of  hewn  stone  converge  to  the  central  platform,  on 
which  the  mausoleum  stands.  The  intermediate  spaces  are 
filled  with  orange,  mango,  banana,  palm  and  peepul  trees.  In 
the  centre  of  the  causeways  are  immense  tanks  and  fountains. 
The  platform  of  solid  stone  which  terminates  these  magnifi- 
cent approaches  is  about  four  hundred  feet  square.  The  mau- 
soleum, which  is  square,  measures  more  than  three  hundred 
feet  on  a side,  and  rises  in  five  terraces,  in  a pyramidal  form, 
to  the  height  of  one  hundred  feet.  Around  each  of  the  ter- 
races runs  an  arched  gallery,  surmounted  by  a row  of  cupolas, 
resting  on  small  pillars.  The  material  of  the  edifice  is  red 
sandstone,  except  the  upper  story,  which  is  of  white  marble. 

A long,  descending  passage  leads  from  the  main  entrance 
to  a vaulted  hall  in  the  centre  of  the  structure.  Light  is  ad- 
mitted through  a few  small  openings  in  the  dome,  barely  suf- 


THE  TOMB  OF-  AKBAR. 


Ill 


ficient  to  sliow  you  a plain  tomb,  in  the  form  of  a sarcopha' 
gus,  with  a wreath  of  fresh  roses  lying  upon  it.  Beneath  it 
is  the  dust  of  Akbar,  one  of  the  greatest  men  who  ever 
wielded  a sceptre — the  fourth  descendant  in  a direct  line  from 
Tamerlane,  the  grandson  of  Baber,  the  Conqueror,  and  the 
grandfather  of  Shah  Jehan,  in  him  culminated  the  wisdom, 
the  power  and  the  glory  of  that  illustrious  line.  I doubt  if 
the  annals  of  any  family  that  ever  reigned  can  furnish  six  suc- 
cessive monarchs  comparable,  in  the  greatness  of  their  endow- 
ments and  the  splendor  of  their  rule,  to  Baber,  Humayoon,  Ak- 
bar, Jehan  Ghir,  Shah  Jehan  and  Aurung-Zebe. 

On  the  summit  of  the  mausoleum,  which  is  open  to  the 
sky,  and  surrounded  by  screens  of  marble,  wrought  into  pat- 
terns of  marvellous  richness  and  variety,  stands  a second 
tomb,  under  a pavilion  of  marble,  covered  with  a gilded 
dome.  This  is  exquisitely  sculptured,  containing  the  ninety- 
nine  names  of  God,  in  raised  Arabic  characters,  infolded  in 
elaborate  scroll-work.  At  each  corner  of  the  upper  terrace 
are  two  marble  turrets,  the  domes  of  which  are  covered  with 
gilded  and  emblazoned  tiles.  The  screens  of  marble  filigree 
around  the  sides  are  arranged  in  panels,  no  two  of  which  pre- 
sent the  same  design.  There  are  small  openings,  at  intervals , 
through  which  I looked  out  on  the  level  country  watered  by 
the  Jumna — ^yellow  sandy  tracts  near  the  river,  but  receding 
into  green  wheat-fields  and  dark  mango-groves.  Agra  was  al- 
most hidden  from  sight  by  the  trees,  but  above  them  rose  the 
spires  of  two  Christian  churches,  the  red  battlements  of  the 
Fort,  and  farther  off  the  dome  of  the  Taj,  a silvery  disc,  like 
the  gibbous  moon,  just  hanging  on  the  horizon.  A warmth 
and  sunny  silence,  like  that  of  Egypt,  hung  over  the  land- 


112 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


scape.  What  I had  seen  of  the  splendor  of  the  Moguls,  and 
what  I then  saw,  overpowered  me  like  a magnificent  dream. 

We  in  America  hear  so  little  of  these  things,  and  even 
the  accounts  we  get  from  English  travellers  are  generally  so 
confused  and  unsatisfactory,  that  the  reader  must  pardon  me, 
if  in  attempting  the  description,  I lose  myself  in  details.  I 
thought  the  Alcazar  of  Seville  and  the  Alhambra  of  Granada 
had  already  presented  me  with  the  purest  types  of  Saracenic 
architecture,  but  I was  mistaken.  I found,  in  India,  concep- 
tions of  Art  far  nobler  and  embodiments  far  more  successful. 
There  is  a Saracenic,  as  distinctly  as  there  is  a Greek  and 
Gothic  school  of  Art — not  the  inferior,  but  the  equal  of  these. 

At  Secundra,  the  tomb  of  Akbar’s  Christian  wife,  the 
Begum  Mariam,  who  is  believed  to  have  been  a Portu- 
guese woman — has  been  taken  by  the  Church  Mission,  which 
has  converted  it  into  a printing  establishment.  It  is  the  lar- 
gest office  of  the  kind  in  India,  giving  employment  to  about 
three  hundred  men,  most  of  whom  are  natives.  Printing  is 
carried  on  in  English,  Hindee,  Urdoo,  Sanscrit  and  Persian. 
There  is  a type  foundry  connected  with  it,  in  whch  the  casting 
is  done  entirely  by  natives.  The  wages  paid  in  these  establish- 
ments vary  from  $1  50  to  $1  per  month.  Many  of  the  labor- 
ers are  Christians,  there  being  a native  Christian  community 
of  about  five  hundred  persons  attached  to  the  Secundra  Mis- 
sion. Most  of  these,  however,  are  persons  picked  up  during 
the  great  famine  of  1837,  when  thousands  of  children,  having 
been  deserted  bj  their  parents,  were  taken  by  the  Mission- 
aries and  educated  in  the  Christian  faith.  During  that  year 
the  Missions  prospered  exceedingly.  The  Presbyterian  Mis- 
sion, at  the  head  of  which  is  Mr.  Warren,  had  just  established 


THE  AGRA  JAIL 


113 


seminaries  of  education  for  both  sexes,  where  instruction  was 
furnished  at  a rate  which  allowed  the  poorest  of  the  European 
and  half-caste  population  to  send  their  children.  Native 
scholars  were  of  course  admitted,  but  were  obliged  to  share  in 
the  religious  instruction  of  the  European  children.  These 
schools  were  under  the  charge  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Fullerton  and 
his  wife.  Whether  Missions  in  general  repay  the  vast  pecu- 
niary expense  and  sacrifice  of  life  and  talent  which  they  ex- 
act, is  a question  concerning  which  I have  strong  doubts ; but 
that  they  have  accomplished  good  in  India,  and  that  their 
ministers  are  conscientious,  zealous  and  laborious  men,  I am 
well  satisfied. 

Mr.  Warren  also  took  me  to  visit  the  Agra  Jail,  in  which  a 
new  and  interesting  experiment  is  now  being  tested.  The  jail 
there  is  a sort  of  general  penitentiary,  whither  prisoners  are  sent 
from  all  parts  of  the  north-western  provinces.  The  number 
then  incarcerated  was  about  2,800.  The  jail  encloses  a space 
of  about  forty  acres,  wherein  are  numbers  of  small  buildings 
and  manufactories,  as  the  prisoners  are  all  required  to  labor 
about  eight  hours  a day.  Dr.  Walker,  the  Superintendent, 
who  formerly  had  charge  of  the  jail  at  Mynpoorie,  introduced 
a system  of  prison  education,  which  was  so  successful,  that 
when  he  was  promoted  to  the  management  of  the  great  central 
jail  at  Agra,  he  determined  to  continue  it.  At  first  he 
experienced  great  difficulty,  the  prisoners  suspecting  that  some 
mysterious  Christian  doctrine  lay  covert  in  the  multiplication- 
table  and  the  spelling-book ; but  his  perseverance  so  wrought 
upon  them  that  all  of  those  employed  at  labor  within  the  jail 
(700  being  kept  upon  the  roads,  in  fettered  gangs),  were 
willing  scholars. 


114 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


Dr.  Walker  was  kind  enough  to  conduct  me  through  the 
jail,  and  put  the  prisoners  through  their  exercises.  It  was  a 
most  remarkable  spectacle.  Here  were  hundreds  of  men 
seated  at  their  looms,  weaving  carpets,  singing  the  multiplica- 
tion table  in  thundering  chorus.  “ Twelve  times  twelve^'^  sang 
the  monitor,  in  a shrill  solo : “ One  hundred  andforty-four  ! ’* 
burst  out  the  chorus,  in  all  sorts  of  voices.  We  went  into 
the  blacksmith  s shops  where  the  prisoners,  by  a refinement  of 
punishment,  were  made  to  forge  their  own  fetters,  themselves 
fettered.  ‘‘  Seven  times  sixteen'’’  sang  the  solo,  as  he  raised 
his  hammer.  “One  hundred  and  twelve''  was  roared  in  arswer, 
drowning  the  clang  and  bang  of  the  iron.  In  the  women’s 
department  there  was  a shrill  tempest  of  vulgar  fractions ; the 
cooks  recited  astronomical  facts  while  mixing  their  rice. 
Even  the  hardest  cases,  confined  in  solitary  cells,  were  going  on 
with  their  “ a-h  abs,"  through  a hole  in  the  door,  to  a monitor 
standing  outside.  The  murderers,  confined  for  life  (of  whom 
there  were  several  hundred),  were  not  exempted,  but  went 
through  the  numerals  while  they  worked  at  paper-making.  I 
brought  away  a sheet  of  paper,  made  entirely  by  these  wretches, 
and  will  present  it  to  King  Bomba,  whenever  he  is  ready  to 
write  his  abdication. 

There  is  a monthly  examination  of  the  prisoners,  and  they 
who  can  read  a short  story,  and  repeat  the  multiplication  table  of 
whole  numbers  and  fractions  up  to  16x16,  6^x25  and  6|x6^, 
are  entitled  to  a visit  from  their  friends  or  a bath  in  the 
Jumna,  if  Hindoos,  and  a visit  to  the  Taj,  if  Moslems.  The 
more  advanced  scholars  are  obliged  to  pass  in  writing,  the 
facts  of  astronomy,  simple  and  compound  interest,  &c.  There 
is  great  emulation  among  the  prisoners,  and  their  progress  is 


RESULTS  OF  THE  SYSTEM. 


115 


very  rapid.  As  one  result  of  the  system,  in  their  moral  im- 
provement, it  will  be  enough  to  state  that  in  1851,  before  it 
was  introduced , the  number  of  punishments  administered  for 
offences  committed  within  the  jail,  was  162;  in  1852,  after 
its  introduction,  the  number  so  punished  was  18.  It  is  not 
much  to  the  credit  of  the  Government  that  it  only  allows  the 
miserable  sum  of  five  rupees  ($2  50)  a month  in  support  of 
BO  important  an  experiment 


CHAPTER  IX. 


THE  RUINS  OP  PUTTEHPORE-81KREB. 

Excursion  to  Fnttel  pore-Sikree — The  Eoad  Thither— Approach  to  the  Enins— Their 
Extent  and  Grandeur— The  Palace  of  Eajah  Beer-Bul — Perfect  Condition  of  the 
Eemains— Shekh  Bushirat-Ali— Age  of  Futtehpore — The  Emperor’s  Palace— 
Eooms  of  the  Sultana  Mariam— Akbar’s  Tolerance — The  Five  Palaces — The  Pillar 
of  Council— Profusion  of  Ornament— The  Emperor's  Salatation — The  Elephant  Gate 
• and  Tower— The  Durgah— Shekh  Selim-Chishti — Ho  gives  a Son  to  the  Emperor— 
The  Splendor  of  his  Tomb — View  from  the  Gateway— An  Experiment— Tiffin  in 
the  Palace— The  Story  of  the  Eajah  Beer-Bul  and  the  Euby — Last  View  of  Futteh 
pore-Sikree. 


Before  leaving  Agra  I made  an  excursion  to  the  ruins  of 
Futtehpore-Sikree,  which  are  about  twenty-two  miles  to  the 
west  of  the  city.  I had  been  so  strongly  counselled  to  visit 
the  place,  as  well  from  its  historic  interest  (having  been  the 
favorite  residence  of  Akhar),  as  from  the  extent  and  magnifi- 
cence of  its  remains,  that  I postponed  for  another  day,  though 
reluctantly,  my  departure  for  Delhi.  Mr.  Sherer,  one  of  the 
Secretaries  of  Government,  kindly  offered  to  accompany  me, 
and  through  his  familiarity  with  the  history  of  those  times, 
the  new  desolate  spot  was  peopled  for  me  with  the  phantoms 
of  its  former  inhabitants.  I have  rarely  had  the  Past  so 


EXCURSION  TO  FUTTEHPORE-SIKREE. 


117 


vividly  restored,  or  so  completely  given  myself  np  to  its  illu- 
sions. The  day  was  one  of  the  whitest  in  my  calendar,  and 
not  unworthy  to  be  chronicled  beside  the  memorable  Theban 
days  of  the  previous  year. 

In  order  to  make  the  excursion  in  a single  day,  I had  re- 
lays of  horses  sent  out  in  advance,  and  took  my  departure  be- 
fore sunrise,  in  a light  garree — a two-wheeled  vehicle,  resem- 
bling a genteel  cart.  The  road  was  broad  and  good  for  the  first 
eight  miles,  and  bordered  by  stately  acacia,  peepul  and  neem 
trees.  I passed  two  or  three  large  walled  gardens,  belonging 
to  native  Kajahs,  and  a cleanly  little  village,  with  several 
small  temples  to  Yishnu  and  Shiva.  The  road  gradually  be- 
came rougher,  though  the  country  still  continued  level  and 
tolerably  cultivated.  My  horses,  inspired  by  the  pleasant 
morning  air,  trotted  merrily  along,  and  before  three  hours 
were  over,  Futtehpore-Sikree  was  in  view,  A low  range  of  red 
sandstone  hills  appeared  in  the  west,  with  here  and  there  a 
crumbling  ruin  on  the  crest.  The  extremity  of  this  range, 
about  four  miles  distant,  was  covered  with  a mass  of  walls, 
terraces  and  spires,  crowned  with  a majestic  portal,  which  rose 
high  above  them,  gleaming  against  the  sky  with  a soft  red  lus- 
tre, as  the  sun  shone  full  upon  it. 

As  I approached  nearer,  I found  that  this  part  of  the  hill 
was  surrounded  by  a lofty  wall  of  red  sandstone,  with  a 
machicolated  or  notched  parapet,  and  a spacious  gate,  through 
which  my  road  ran.  It  is  almost  entire,  and  upwards  of  six 
miles  in  circuit,  enclosing  a portion  of  the  plain  on  both  sides  of 
the  hill.  Driving  through  the  deserted  gateway,  I was  amazed 
at  the  piles  of  ruins  which  met  my  eye.  Here  was  a narrow 
hill,  nearly  a mile  and  a half  in  length,  and  averaging  a hun 


118 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


dred  feet  in  heiglit,  almost  entirely  eovered  with  the  remains 
of  palaces,  mosques  and  public  buildings,  in  some  places  near- 
ly as  perfect  as  when  first  erected,  in  others  little  else  than 
shapeless  masses  of  hewn  stones.  Innumerable  pavilions 
resting  on  open  arches,  cupolas  and  turrets,  shot  up  from  this 
picturesque  confusion ; but  the  great  portal,  of  which  I have 
already  spoken,  dominated  over  all,  colossal  as  one  of  the 
pylons  of  Karnak.  The  series  of  arched  terraces,  rising  one 
above  another  up  the  sides  of  the  hill,  gave  the  place  an  air 
of  barbaric  grandeur,  such  as  we  imagine  Babylon  to  have 
possessed,  and  of  which  there  are  traces  in  Martin’s  pictures. 
But  here  there  was  nothing  sombre  or  stern ; the  bright  red 
sandstone  of  the  buildings,  illumined  here  and  there  by  a 
gilded  spire,  was  bathed  in  a flood  of  sunshine,  and  stood,  so 
shadowless  as  almost  to  lack  perspective,  against  a cloudless 
sky.  The  modern  village  of  Futtehpore  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill,  was  adorned  with  beautiful  trees,  and  that  part  of  the 
plain  enclosed  within  the  ancient  walls  was  green  with  fields 
of  young  wheat. 

I drove  through  the  long,  rambling  street  of  Futtehpore^ 
not  without  considerable  risk  of  destroying  the  stock  of  the 
native  merchants,  for  the  space  between  their  shopboards 
was  scarcely  wider  than  my  garree.  Then  owing  to  the 
stupidity  of  the  groom,  who  had  missed  the  road,  I was 
obliged  to  return  as  I came,  and  finally  climbed  the  hill  on 
foot.  In  the  palace  of  Bajah  Beer-Bul  one  of  Akbar’s  Prime 
Ministers,  I found  Mr.  Sherer,  who  had  come  out  during 
the  night  in  a palanquin.  The  palace  was  an  exquisite  build- 
ing, quite  uninjured,  and  had  been  fitted  up  with  tables,  chairs, 
carpets,  etc.,  for  the  convenience  of  visitors  to  the  place. 


SHEKH  BUSHARAT-ALI. 


119 


There  was  a table  set  in  a cool,  vaulted  hall  in  the  second 
story,  and  Mr.  Sherer’s  servants  were  preparing  breakfast  in 
the  Rajah’s  kitchen.  We  took  our  seats  on  the  massive  stone 
terrace  of  the  palace,  to  await  the  meal.  The  royal  residence 
of  Akbar  was  on  our  left;  the  grand  Durgah,  or  tomb  of 
Shekh  Selim-Chishti  on  the  right,  and  the  empty  quadi’angles 
into  which  we  looked,  showed  no  trace  of  ruin.  The  stone 
pavements  were  partly  overrun  with  grass,  but  not  a block  of 
the  arched  corridors  surrounding  them  had  tumbled  from  its 
place.  How  like  yesterday  seemed  the  Futtehpore  of  three 
centuries  ago ! The  palace  was  deserted,  not  ruined,  and  its 
lord  was  not  dead,  but  absent.  I felt  like  an  intruder  in  the 
sculptured  chambers  of  Beer-Bul,  and  should  not  have  been 
much  surprised  had  a chobdar,  with  his  silver  mace,  made  his 
appearance,  to  drive  me  away. 

The  guardian  of  the  place,  a lusty  old  Mussulman,  named 
Shekh  Busharat-Ali,  came  to  make  his  salaam  and  accompany 
me  over  the  ruins.  He  was  a stout  man  of  fifty-five,  with  a 
gray  moustache,  and  a face  expressive  of  great  good-will  and 
good-humor.  He  wore  a white  turban  and  a cotton  gown,  tied 
i on  the  left  shoulder,  so  as  to  expose  the  left  side  of  a most  sleek 
I and  capacious  chest.  The  Hindoos  and  Parsees  tie  their  gar- 
ments  on  the  right  shoulder,  in  opposition  to  the  Mussulmans, 
i Busharat-Ali  was  a very  devout  follower  of  the  Prophet,  and 
knew  most  of  the  Koran  in  Arabic.  He  was  greatly  delighted 
when  I addressed  him  in  that  language,  and  thereafter  was 
continually  repeating  prayers  and  singing  passages  of  the  Ko- 
ran, that  I might  perceive  how  much  he  knew.  His  knowl- 
edge of  Futtehpore  was  much  inferior  to  that  of  Mr.  Sherer, 
who  had  carefully  studied  the  history  of  Akbar’s  reign,  but 


120 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


he  was  a pleasant  companion  during  our  rambles  among  the 
ruins,  and  we  suffered  him  to  go  through  with  his  stories  and 
traditions  as  usual. 

After  breakfast,  we  set  out  to  make  a thorough  survey  of 
the  place.  I should  first  state  that  Futtehpore-Sikree  was  a 
country  residence  of  Akbar,  and  stood  in  the  same  relation 
to  Agra  that  Windsor  Castle  does  to  London.  It  was  completed 
in  1571,  and  for  twelve  years  his  court  was  stationed  there. 
At  that  time  it  must  have  been  a populous  place,  but  it  is  prob- 
able that  the  dwellings  of  the  lower  classes  of  the  natives 
consisted  then,  as  now,  of  mud  huts,  for  there  arc  very  few 
ruins  on  the  plain  surrounding  the  hill.  The  existence  of  a 
Mint  and  other  public  edifices,  on  a very  large  scale,  shows 
that  it  was  considered  as  a temporary  capital,  rather  than  as  a 
mere  palace  of  summer  resort. 

Commencing  with  the  Emperor’s  palace,  we  first  visited 
the  separate  dwelling  assigned  to  his  Christian  wife.  This, 
unlike  other  Moslem  buildings,  is  covered  with  paintings  in 
fresco,  evidently  by  Persian  artists.  They  are  said  to  repre- 
sent the  adventures  of  the  hero  Rustum  as  related  in  Firdusi’s 
“ Shah  NamehP  Certain  niches,  however,  over  the  doors  and 
windows,  contain  pictures  of  a different  character,  and  cer- 
tainly have  a religious  significance.  On  one  side  are  the 
Hindoo  gods  and  goddesses — the  elephant-headed  Ganeish- 
Mahadeo,  and  Lokshrai — and  on  the  other  two  tablets,  almost 
obliterated,  but  still  sufficiently  distinct  to  show  that  one  of 
them  is  intended  for  the  Annunciation.  Akbar’s  latitude  in 
religious  matters  is  well  known,  but  I had  not  given  him 
credit  for  so  much  toleration  as  this  would  imply.  Among 
the  ornamental  designs  of  this  palace,  the  Greek  Cross  is  not 


akbar’s  palace. 


121 


unusual,  and  it  is  related  tliat  when  the  Jesuits  solicited  the 
Emperor’s  protection,  he  replied  to  them:  “ What  would  you 

have  ? See ! I have  more  crosses  on  my  palace  than  you  in 
your  churches.” 

The  buildings  of  the  palace  cover  the  crest  of  the  hill,  hav- 
ing superb  views  on  both  sides,  over  many  a league  of  the 
fruitful  plain.  There  is  quite  a labyrinth  of  courts,  pavilions, 
small  palaces,  gateways,  tanks,  fountains,  and  terraces,  and  I 
found  it  difficult  to  obtain  a clear  idea  of  their  arrangement. 
Most  of  the  buildings  are  so  well  preserved  that  a trifling  ex- 
pense would  make  them  habitable.  For  a scholar  or  poet  I 
can  conceive  of  no  more  delightful  residence.  Adjoining  the 
palace  of  the  Christian  woman,  stands  the  Panch-Mahal  (Five 
Palaces),  consisting  of  five  square  platforms,  resting  on  richly 
carved  pillars,  and  rising  one  above  another  in  a pyramidal 
form,  to  a considerable  height.  Mr.  Sherer  supposes  it  to  have 
been  a sleeping  place  for  the  servants  connected  with  the 
palace.  Beyond  it  is  a court-yard,  paved  with  large  slabs  of 
sandstone,  and  containing  a colossal  j?acAisi-board,  such  as  I 
have  described  in  speaking  of  the  Palace  at  Agra.  In  one 
corner  of  the  court-yard  is  a labyrinthine  building,  of  singular 
design,  wherein  the  ladies  of  the  Emperor’s  zenana  were 
accustomed  to  play  hide-and-seek.  A little  further  is  a sort 
of  chapel,  two  stories  high,  and  crowned  with  several  cupolas. 
On  entering,  however,  I found  that  there  was  but  one  story, 
extending  to  the  dome,  with  a single  pillar  in  the  centre,  rising 
to  the  height  of  the  upper  windows. ' This  pillar  has  an  im- 
mense capital  of  the  richest  sculpture,  three  times  its  diameter, 
with  four  stone  causeways  leading  to  the  four  corners  of  the 
chapel,  where  there  are  small  platforms  of  the  shape  of  a 
6 


122 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


quadrant.  Tradition  says  that  this  building  was  used  bj 
Akbar  as  a place  for  discussing  matters  of  science  or  religion, 
himself  occupying  the  capital  of  the  central  pillar,  while  his 
chief  men  were  seated  in  the  four  corners. 

In  this  same  court  is  a pavilion,  consisting  of  a pyramidal 
canopy  of  elaborately  carved  stone,  resting  on  four  pillars, 
which  have  a cornice  of  peculiar  design,  representing  a serpent. 
This  pavilion  approaches  as  near  the  Hindoo  style  of  building, 
as  is  possible,  without  violating  the  architecture  of  the  palace, 
which  is  a massive  kind  of  Saracenic.  It  was  the  station  of  a 
Gooroo,  or  Hindoo  Saint,  whom  Akbar,  probably  from  motives 
of  policy,  kept  near  him.  The  palace  of  the  Sultana  of 
Constantinople  is  one  mass  of  the  most  laborious  sculpture. 
There  is  scarcely  a square  inch  of  blank  stone  in  the  building. 
But  the  same  remark  would  apply  to  almost  the  whole  of  the 
palace,  as  well  as  to  that  of  Beer-Bul.  It  is  a wilderness  of 
sculpture,  whei;e  invention  seems  to  have  been  taxed  to  the 
utmost  to  produce  new  combinations  of  ornament.  Every 
thing  is  carved  in  a sandstone  so  fine  and  compact,  that,  ex- 
cept where  injured  by  man,  it  appears  nearly  as  sharp  as  when 
first  chiselled.  The  amount  of  labor  bestowed  on  Futtehpore 
throws  the  stucco  filigrees  of  the  Alhambra  quite  into  the 
shade.  It  is  unlike  any  thing  that  I have  ever  seen.  And 
yet  the  very  name  of  this  spendid  collection  of  ruins,  which 
cannot  be  surpassed  anywhere,  outside  of  Egypt,  was  unknown 
to  me,  before  reaching  India ! 

We  paid  rather  a hasty  visit  to  the  Diwdn-e'-hhaZj  the 
Diwdn  e'-am^  and  the  mint.  The  latter  is  an  immense  quad- 
rangle, half  blocked  up  with  ruins.  In  the  diwan-e’-am,  is 
the  balcony  where  Akbar  usually  made  his  public  appearance 


ELEPHANT  GATE  AND  TOWEH. 


123 


in  tho  morning,  to  the  crowd  waiting  in  the  court  to  see  or 
petition  him.  He  was  greeted  on  these  occasions  with  the  cry 
of  Allah  akharl''''  (God  is  great!)  to  which  he  invariably 
replied  : Jilli  jellallihoo  ! ” (May  his  glory  shine  1)  This  was 
a mode  of  salutation  introduced  by  himself,  because  the  two 
phrases  contained  his  name-Jellal-ud-deen  Akbar.  I have 
frequently  heard  a very  similar  style  of  address  in  Bohemia, 
where  the  greeting  is : “ Praised  be  Jesus  Christ  I ” and  the 
answer : “ In  eternity.  Amen.” 

On  the  north  side  of  Beer-Bul’s  palace,  a little  further 
down  the  hill,  is  the  famous  Elephant  Gate.  Akbar  at  one 
time  intended  to  make  a fortress  of. the  place,  and  com- 
menced by  building  this  gate,  which  is  a very  noble  structure, 
flanked  by  two  octagonal  bastions : but  Shekh  Selim- Chishti,  in 
whose  sanctity  the  Emperor  had  great  faith,  threatened  to 
leave,  in  case  the  plan  was  carried  out,  and  the  fortress  was 
therefore  relinquished.  On  each  side  of  the  gate  is  a colos- 
sal elephant,  on  a lofty  pedestal,  but  both  the  animals  have 
lost  their  trunks,  and  are  otherwise  mutilated.  A steep  paved 
road,  between  gardens,  hanging  one  below  the  other  on  arched 
terraces,  interrupted  occasionally  by  the  ruins  of  palaces,  leads 
down  the  hill  to  the  Elephant’s  Tower,  a minaret  about  ninety 
feet  high,  and  studded  from  top  to  bottom  with  the  tusks  of 
elephants.  There  is  much  discussion  concerning  its  character, 
but  the  most  plausible  supposition  is  that  it  was  erected  by 
Akbar  over  the  grave  of  a favorite  elephant.  It  is  called  by 
the  natives  the  Hirun  Minar  (Antelope  tower). 

By  this  time  it  was  two  hours  past  noon,  and  I still  had- 
the  famous  Durgah  to  see.  We  therefore  retraced  our  steps,, 
and  ascended  to  the  highest  part  of  the  hill,  where  the  tomb 


124 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


rises  like  a huge  square  fortress,  overtopping  the  palace  of 
Akhar  himself.  We  mounted  a long  flight  of  steps,  and  en- 
tered a quadrangle  so  spacious,  so  symmetrical,  so  wonderful 
in  its  decorations,  that  I was  filled  with  amazement.  Fancy  a 
paved  court-yard,  428  feet  in  length  hy  406  in  breadth,  sur- 
rounded with  a pillared  corridor  50  feet  high;  one  of  the 
noblest  gateways  in  Ihe  world,  1 20  feet  high ; a triple-domed 
mosque  on  one  side ; a large  tank  and  fountain  in  the  centre, 
and  opposite  the  great  portal,  the  mother-of-pearl  and  marble 
tomb  of  the  Shekh,  a miniature  palace,  gleaming  like  crystal, 
with  its  gilded  domes,  its  ivory  pillars,  and  its  wreaths  of  won- 
drous, flower-like  ornaments,  inwrought  in  marble  filigree. 
The  court,  with  its  immense  gate,  seemed  an  enchanted  fortress, 
solely  erected  to  guard  the  precious  structure  within. 

Shekh  Selim-Chishti  was  a very  holy  man,  who  became 
known  as  such  by  his  intimacy  with  tigers,  several  of  whom 
lived  with  him  in  a cave  on  the  hill  where  his  tomb  now 
stands.  His  renown  reached  the  ears  of  Akbar,  who,  finding 
him  to  be  a man  of  apparent  sanctity  and  considerable  wis- 
dom, built  the  palace  of  Futtehpore-Sikree,  it  is  said,  to  be 
near  him.  He  consulted  him  on  all  important  occasions,  and, 
as  the  story  goes,  was  finally  indebted  to  him  for  an  heir  to 
his  throne.  For  some  time  after  Akbar’s  accession,  he  was 
without  a son,  and  twice  demanded  of  the  Shekh  whether  he 
should  ever  have  one.  “No,”  said  the  latter;  “it  is  not  so 
written.”  Now  he,  the  Shekh,  had  an  infant  son  of  six 
months  old ; for  these  Moslem  saints  are  the  reverse  of  celi- 
bates. Upon  Akbar  coming  to  make  the  demand  a third 
time,  and  receiving  the  same  answer,  this  infant,  who  was 
present  in  his  cradle  during  the  interview,  suddenly  spoke. 


THE  SHEKH  AND  THE  EMPEROR’s  SON. 


125 


althougli  never  before  had  he  so  much  as  lisped  a syllable. 
‘ Father,”  said  he,  “ why  do  you  send  away  the  Conqueror  of 
the  World,  in  despair?”  “Because,”  said  the  Shekh, 
although  he  marvelled  not  a little  at  this  unexpected  ques- 
tion; “there  is  no  son  written  for  him,  unless  another  will 
give  up  the  life  of  a child  destined  for  him ; and  who  will  do 
this  ? ” “ If  you  permit  me,  father,”  said  the  infant,  “ I will 

die,  that  a son  may  be  born  to  the  Emperor,” — and  even  be- 
fore the  Shekh  signified  his  consent,  he  gave  up  the  ghost. 
That  day  an  heir  to  the  throne  was  conceived,  and  in  due  time 
was  born.  There  are  scandalous  persons,  however,  who  say 
that  this  is  an  allegory,  veiling  a truth,  and  that  the  Shekh,  in 
procuring  an  heir  for  the  Emperor,  did,  in  fact,  give  up  his 
own  son,  but  without  destroying  his  life.  Be  that  as  it  may, 
Jehan-Ghir,  the  son  of  Akbar,  bore  the  name  of  Selim  until 
he  ascended  the  throne. 

We  are  allowed  to  enter  the  inner  corridor  which  sur- 
rounds the  Shekh’s  tomb,  and  to  look  in,  but  not  to  cross  the 
threshold.  The  tomb,  as  well  as  a canopy  six  feet  high, 
which  covers  it,  is  made  of  mother-of-pearl.  The  fioor  is  of 
jasper,  and  the  walls  of  white  marble,  inlaid  with  cornelian. 
A cloth  of  silk  and  gold  was  spread  over  it  like  a pall,  and 
upon  this  were  wreaths  of  fresh  and  withered  flowers.  The 
screens  of  marble  surrounding  the  building  are  the  most 
beautiful  in  India.  They  are  single  thin  slabs,  about  eight 
feet  square,  and  wrought  into  such  intricate  open  patterns 
that  you  would  say  they  had  been  woven  in  a loom.  The 
mosque,  which  is  of  older  date  than  the  tomb,  is  very  elegant, 
resembling  somewhat  the  Hall  of  the  Abencerrages  in  the 
Alhambra,  except  that  it  is  much  larger,  and  of  white  marble, 


126 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


instead  of  stucco.  BusHarat-Ali  informed  me  that  the  Dur- 
gah  was  erected  in  one  year,  from  the  wealth  left  by  the 
Shekh  Selim-Chishti  at  his  death,  and  that  it  cost  thirty-seven 
lacs  of  rupees — $1,750,000. 

We  ascended  to  the  summit  of  the  great  gateway,  for  the 
sake  of  the  panoramic  view  of  Futtehpore-Sikree,  and  the  ad- 
jacent country.  It  is  a vast  plain,  and  our  horizon  was  de- 
scribed by  a radius  of  twenty  miles — a circle  of  fresh  wheat- 
fields,  dotted  with  mango-groves,  and  now  and.  then  the  blue 
gleam  of  a river  or  irrigating  canal.  There  were  some  low 
hills  in  the  west,  and  the  famous  citadel  of  Bhurtpore,  in  that 
direction,  was  barely  visible.  The  country,  though  less  gar- 
den-like,  reminded  me  of  the  plain  of  the  Nile.  A few  years 
ago  it  was  all  an  uncultivated  waste.  Mr.  Thomasson,  the 
late  Lieutenant-Governor  of  the  north-western  provinces, 
happening  to  be  at  Futtehpore-Sikree  one  day,  heard  a native 
say  that  in  Akbar’s  time,  the  country  was  annually  over- 
flowed, so  that  the  palace  was  in  the  midst  of  a lake. 
“Well,”  said  Mr.  T.,  “I  will  overflow  it,  too.”  And  ho 
ordered  the  banks  of  a small  river,  which  flows  into  the  Jum- 
na near  Bhurtpore,  to  be  cut  away,  so  that,  when  the  rainy 
season  came,  the  water  spread  over  about  twenty  square  miles 
of  land.  That  year  the  natives  had  crops  such  as  had  never 
been  heard  of  in  those  parts,  but  they  had  also  a fever,  which 
carried  off  eight  hundred  persons.  However,  the  Governor 
made  his  work  good,  by  cutting  a canal  to  take  off  the  inun- 
dation, and  now  the  region  has  regained  its  health,  and  kept 
its  big  crops  into  the  bargain. 

We  went  back  to  Beer-Bul’s  palace,  where  the  servants 
had  prepared  tifl^n  in  the  mean  time.  Busharat-Ali  sang  an 


THE  STORY  OF  BEER-BUL  AND  THE  RUBY. 


127 


Arab  love-song,  and  told  us  tales  of  the  time  of  Akbar. 
Some  of  these  could  not  very  well  be  repeated,  as,  like  most 
Eastern  stories,  they  were  narratives  of  skilful  intrigue ; but 
there  was  one  relating  to  Beer-bul  himself,  which  I here  re- 
late in  the  Shekh’s  words,  merely  omitting  some  of  his  end- 
less repetitions  of  phrases. 

“ One  day,”  so  began  the  old  man,  “ Akbar-Shah  and 
Rajah  Beer-bul  were  sitting  together.  Akbar  said  to  Beer- 
bul,  ‘ What  would  you  do,  if  a great  misfortune  fell  upon 
you?’  Said  Beer-bul,  ‘I  should  give  myself  up  to  pleasure.’ 
‘ How  to  pleasure,’  said  Akbar,  ‘ when  you  were  unfortu- 
nate?’ ‘Still,’  said  Beer-bul,  ‘I  should  do  it.’  The  next 
day  Akbar  said  to  Beer-bul,  ‘ Take  this  ruby,  and  keep  it  till 
I call  for  it.’  Now  it  was  a ruby  worth  millions  of  rupees, 
such  as  there  never  was  in  the  world,  before  nor  since.  So 
Beer-bul  took  the  ruby  home  to  his  daughter,  and  bade  her 
keep  it  carefully,  for  it  belonged  to  Akbar-Shah;  and  she 
locked  it  up  in  a chest  with  three  locks. 

“ Then  Akbar  sent  to  the  greatest  robber  in  the  place, 
who  was  condemned  to  die,  and  had  him  brought  before  him. 

‘ Robber,’  said  he,  ‘ I will  give  you  your  life,  if  you  can  do 
one  thing  for  me.’  ‘ What  is  that  ? ’ said  the  robber.  ‘ You 
must  steal  from  my  Minister,  Beer-bul,  a ruby  which  I have 
given  him  to  keep,’  said  Akbar-Shah.  The  robber  agreed, 
and  no  sooner  had  he  gone  into  the  city  upon  this  errand, 
than  he  sent  for  a very  cunning  little  old  woman.  There  is 
now  no  woman  living  who  is  so  cunning  as  she  was,  although” 
— interpolated  the  Shekh,  with  a sly  twinkle  of  the  eye — 

‘ there  are  still  some,  who  would  be  a match  for  Ebliz  him- 
self. Well,  this  little  cunning  old  woman  went  to  Beer-bul’s 


128 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


daughter  and  engaged  herself  as  maid,  and  she  gradually  so 
won  her  confidence  that  Beer-hul’s  daughter  showed  her  the 
box  with  three  locks  and  the  ruby.  So  she  filched  the  keys 
opened  the  locks,  took  the  ruby,  and  gave  it  to  the  robber, 
who  brought  it  to  Akbar.  Then  Akbar  threw  it  into  the 
Jumna,  and  sent  for  Beer-bul.  ‘Bring  me  the  ruby,’  said 
he.  ‘ Yery  well,’  said  Beer-bul,  and  went  home  to  bring  it, 
but  behold!  it  was  stolen.  ‘Well,  where’s  the  ruby?’  said 
Akbar.  ‘Your  Majesty  shall  have  it  in  fifteen  days.’  ‘Yery 
well,’  said  Akbar,  ‘ but  remember  that  your  head  is  security 
for  it.’ 

“ Beer-bul  went  home,  and  said  to  his  daughter,  ‘ We  have 
but  fifteen  days  to  live — let  us  spend  them  in  festivity.’  So 
they  ate,  and  drank,  and  gave  feasts  and  dances,  till  in  twelve 
days  they  had  spent  many  lacs  of  rupees,  and  there  was  not  a 
pice  left  them  to  buy  food.  They  remained  thus  two  days. 
On  the  fourteenth  morning,  the  daughter  of  a fisherman  who 
fished  in  the  Jumna,  said  to  her  father : ‘ Father,  the  Bajah 
Beer-bul  and  his  daughter  have  had  nothing  to  eat  for  two 
days;  let  me  take  them  this  fish  for  breakfast.’  So  she  took 
them  the  fish,  which  Beer-bul’s  daughter  received  with  many 
‘ thanks,  and  immediately  cooked.  But  as  they  were  eating  it, 
there  came  a pebble  into  Beer-bul’s  mouth.  He  took  it  out  in 
his  fingers,  and,  wah  ! it  was  the  ruby.  The  next  morning  he 
went  to  Akbar-Shah,  and  said  : ‘ Here  is  the  ruby,  as  I prom- 
ised.’ Akbar  was  covered  with  surprise ; but  when  he  had 
heard  the  story,  he  gave  Beer-bul  two  crores  of  rupees,  and 
said  that  he  spoke  the  truth — it  was  better  to  rejoice  than  to 
grieve  in  misfortune.” 

The  moral  of  this  story  is  rather  awkwardly  brought  outj 


FAREWELL  TO  FUTTEHPORE-SIKREE. 


129 


but  the  plot  is  curious,  from  its  resemblance  to  the  ‘ Hing  of 
Poly  crates.”  It  was  spun  out  to  a much  greater  length  in 
the  Shekh’s  narration. 

I took  leave  of  Mr.  Sherer,  who  was  to  go  back  in  the 
evening  by  palanquin,  shook  hands  with  Busharat-Ali,  and 
drove  slowly  down  the  hill,  and  out  the  gate.  I was  about 
two  miles  distant  when  the  sun  went  down  in  a broad  crimson 
glory,  and  my  last  view  of  Futtehpore-Sikree  was  as  a dark 
band  sublime  against  the  deepening  brilliancy.  But  I shall 
long  remember  the  day  I spent  in  its  palaces. 


CHAPTEE  X. 

THE  TAJ  MAHAL. 

Distant  Views  ol  the  Taj — Tomb  of  Itmim  e’  Dowlah — The  Garden  of  Eama — Night 
Worship— The  Taj  Mahal— Its  Origin- The  Light  of  the  Harem- Portal  and  Avenue 
to  the  Taj— Its  Form— Its  Inlaid  Marbles  and  Jewel  Work— Tomb  of  Noor-Jehan— 
The  Dome— Eesemblance  to  Florentine  Art— Proofs  of  Saracenic  Design— The 
Echo  under  the  Dome— Beauty  of  the  Taj — Saracenic  Architecture — Plan  of  Shah 
Jehan— Garree  Dawk — Leaving  Agra — Night — Allyghur — ^The  Grand  Trunk  Eoad 
— Distant  View  of  Delhi — Arrival. 


I PURPOSELY  postponed  my  visit  to  the  Taj  Mahal — the  most 
renowned  monument  of  Agra — until  I had  seen  every  thing 
else  in  the  city  and  its  vicinity.  The  distant  view  of  this 
matchless  edifice  satisfied  me  that  its  fame  was  well  deserved. 
So  pure,  so  gloriously  perfect  did  it  appear,  that  I almost 
feared  to  approach  it,  lest  the  charm  should  he  broken.  It  is 
seen  to  best  advantage  from  the  tomb  of  Itmun  e’  Dowlah, 
the  Prime  Minister  of  Shah  Jehan,  which  stands  in  a garden 
on  the  northern  bank  of  the  Jumna,  directly  opposite  to  the 
city.  I spent  an  afternoon  at  this  tomb  and  the  Earn  Bagh, 
(G-arden  of  Hama,)  two  miles  further  up  the  river.  The  for- 
mer is  a mausoleum  of  white  marble,  elegantly  sculptured  and 
inlaid,  standing  on  a raised  platform,  from  the  corners  of 


THE  GARDEN  OF  RAMA. 


131 


which  rise  marble  minarets.  Its  design  shows  the  same 
purity  of  taste,  the  same  richness  of  fancy,  which  I had  pre- 
viously remarked  in  the  Pearl  Mosque,  and  afterward  in  the 
Taj. 

The  Ram  Bagh  is  a garden  which,  I believe,  formerly 
belonged  to  the  Mogul  Emperors,  and  is  now  kept  in  order  as 
a place  of  recreation,  by  the  Government.  Too  much  praise 
cannot  be  awarded  to  the  British  rulers  in  India,  for  the  care 
with  which  they  have  restored  and  protected  all  of  these  mon- 
uments of  the  past,  expending  large  sums  to  prevent  the 
mosques,  palaces  and  tombs  of  the  former  rulers  from  falling 
into  decay.  On  account  of  the  humidity  of  the  soil,  and  the 
abundance  of  insects  and  reptiles,  the  Ram  Bagh  is  traversed 
by  raised  stone  causeways,  the  principal  of  which  inclose 
water  tanks  and  fountains.  It  is  a pleasant,  shady  retreat, 
with  a stone  balcony  overhanging  the  rapid  Jumna,  and  com- 
manding a view  of  many  ruined  palaces  on  the  opposite  bank. 
There  are  suites  of  apartments,  comfortably  furnished,  which 
are  let  to  visitors  at  the  rate  of  a rupee  per  day ; but  when 
the  applications  are  frequent,  no  one  is  allowed  to  stay  more 
than  eight  days,  in  order  to  give  a chance  to  others.  My 
friends  brought  their  servants  and  a handsome  tiffin,  of  which 
we  all  partook,  in  the  largest  chamber.  We  returned  across 
the  bridge  of  boats  in  the  evening.  The  Hindoos  had  lighted 
lamps  in  front  of  the  many  little  shrines  facing  the  water, 
and  in  some  of  them  stood  persons  waving  a torch  back  and 
forth  before  the  face  of  the  god,  crying  out  at  the  same  time 
“ Ram,  Ram,  Ram  ! ” Ram,  Seeta,  Ram  ! ” This  cere- 
mony, with  the  pouring  of  the  Jumna  water  over  the  image, 
and  decorating  it  with  wreaths  of  flowers,  appeared  to  be  the 


132 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


only  form  of  worsWp  observed.  There  are  more  substantial 
offerings  made,  but  if  the  god  gets  them,  the  Brahmins  take 
care  that  he  shall  not  keep  them. 

To  return  to  the  Taj — for  the  reader  expects  me  to  de- 
scribe it,  and  I must  comply,  although  reluctantly,  for  I am 
aware  of  the  difficulty  of  giving  an  intelligible  picture  of  a 
building,  which  has  no  counterpart  in  Europe,  or  even  in  the 
East.  The  mosques  and  palaces  of  Constantinople,  the  domed 
tent  of  Omar  at  Jerusalem,  and  the  structures  of  the  Sara- 
cens and  Memlooks  at  Cairo,  have  nothing  in  common  with  it. 
The  remains  of  Moorish  art  in  Spain  approach  nearest  to  its 
spirit,  but  are  only  the  scattered  limbs,  the  torso,  of  which 
the  Taj  is  the  perfect  type.  It  occupies  that  place  in  Sara- 
cenic art,  which,  during  my  visit  to  Constantinople,  I mis- 
takenly gave  to  the  Solymanye  Mosque,  and  which,  in  respect 
to  Grecian  art,  is  represented  by  the  Parthenon.  If  there 
were  nothing  else  in  India,  this  alone  would  repay  the  jour- 
ney. 

The  history  and  associations  of  the  Taj  are  entirely  poetic. 
It  is  a work  inspired  by  Love,  and  consecrated  to  Beauty. 
Shah  Jehan,  the  “ Selim  ” of  Moore’s  poem,  erected  it  as  a 
mausoleum  over  his  queen,  Noor  Jehan — “ the  Light  of  the 
World” — whom  the  same  poet  calls  Noor-Mahal,  “the  Light 
of  the  Harem,”  or  more  properly,  “ Palace.”  She  is  reputed 
to  have  been  a woman  of  surpassing  beauty,  and  of  great  wit 
and  intelligence.  Shah  Jehan  was  inconsolable  for  her  loss, 
and  has  immortalized  her  memory  in  a poem,  the  tablets  of 
which  are  marble,  and  the  letters  jewels : — for  the  Taj  is 
poetry  transmuted  into  form,  and  hence,  when  a poet  sees  it, 
he  hails  it  with  the  rapture  of  a realized  dream.  Few  per- 


PORTAL  AND  AVENUE  TO  THE  TAJ. 


133 


eons,  of  the  thousands  who  sigh  over  the  pages  of  Lalla 
Rookh,  are  aware  that  the  “ Light  of  the  Harem  ” was  a real 
personage,  and  that  her  tomb  is  one  of  the  wonders  of  the 
world.  The  native  miniature  painters  in  Delhi  show  you  her 
portrait,  painted  on  ivory — a small,  rather  delicate  face,  with 
large,  dark,  piercing  eyes,  and  black  hair  flowing  from  under 
a scarf  adorned  with  peacock’s  feathers. 

The  Taj  is  built  on  the  bank  of  the  Jumna,  rather  more 
than  a mile  to  the  eastward  of  the  Fort  of  Agra.  It  is  ap- 
proached by  a handsome  road,  cut  through  the  mounds  left  by 
the  ruins  of  ancient  palaces.  Like  the  tomb  of  Akbar,  it 
stands  in  a large  garden,  inclosed  by  a lofty  wall  of  red  sand- 
stone, with  arched  galleries  around  the  interior.  The  en- 
trance is  a superb  gateway  of  sandstone,  inlaid  with  orna- 
ments and  inscriptions  from  the  Koran,  in  white  marble. 
Outside  of  this  grand  portal,  however,  is  a spacious  quad- 
rangle of  solid  masonry,  with  an  elegant  structure  intended 
as  a caravanserai,  on  the  opposite  side.  Whatever  may  be 
the  visitor’s  impatience,  he  cannot  help  pausing  to  notice  the 
fine  proportions  of  these  structures,  and  the  rich  and  massive 
style  of  their  architecture.  The  gate  to  the  garden  of  the 
Taj  is  not  so  large  as  that  of  Akbar’s  tomb,  but  quite  as 
beautiful  in  design.  Passing  under  the  open  demi-vault, 
whose  arch  hangs  high  above  you,  an  avenue  of  dark  Italian 
cypresses  appears  before  you.  Down  its  centre  sparkles  a 
long  row  of  fountains,  each  casting  up  a single  slender  jet. 
On  both  sides,  the  palm,  the  banyan,  and  the  feathery  bam- 
boo mingle  their  foliage ; the  song  of  birds  meets  your  ear^ 
and  the  odor  of  roses  and  lemon-flowers  sweetens  the  air 
Down  such  a vista,  and  over  such  a foreground,  rises  the  Taj. 


134 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


It  is  an  octagonal  building,  or  rather,  a square  with  the 
corners  truncated,  and  each  side  precisely  similar.  It  stands 
upon  a lofty  platform,  or  pedestal,  with  a minaret  at  each  cor- 
ner, and  this,  again,  is  lifted  on  a vast  terrace  of  solid  ma- 
sonry. An  Oriental  dome,  swelling  out  boldly  from  the  base 
into  nearly  two-thirds  of  a sphere,  and  tapering  at  the  top 
into  a crescent-tipped  spire,  crowns  the  edifice,  rising  from  its 
centre,  with  four  similar,  though  much  smaller  domes,  at  the 
corners.  On  each  side  there  is  a grand  entrance,  formed  by 
a single  pointed  arch,  rising  nearly  to  the  cornice,  and  two 
smaller  arches  (one  placed  above  the  other)  on  either  hand. 
The  height  of  the  building,  from  its  base  to  the  top  of  the 
dome,  is  262  feet,  and  of  the  minarets,  about  200  feet.  But 
no  words  can  convey  an  idea  of  the  exquisite  harmony  of  the 
different  parts,  and  the  grand  and  glorious  effect  of  the  whole 
structure,  with  its  attendant  minarets. 

The  material  is  of  the  purest  white  marble,  little  inferior 
to  that  of  Carrara.  It  shines  so  dazzlingly  in  the  sun,  that 
you  can  scarcely  look  at  it  near  at  hand,  except  in  the  morn- 
ing and  evening.  Every  part — even  the  basement,  the  dome, . 
and  the  upper  galleries  of  the  minarets — is  inlaid  with  orna- 
mental designs  in  marble  of  different  colors,  principally  a 
pale  brown,  and  a bluish  violet  variety.  Great  as  are  the 
dimensions  of  the  Taj,  it  is  as  laboriously  finished  as  one  of 
those  Chinese  caskets  of  ivory  and  ebony,  which  are  now  so 
common  in  Europe.  Bishop  Heber  truly  said  : “ The 
Pathans  designed  like  Titans,  and  finished  like  jewellers.’* 
Around  all  the  arches  of  the  portals  and  the  windows — 
around  the  cornice  and  the  domes- — on  the  walls  and  in  the 
passages,  are  inlaid  chapters  of  the  Koran,  the  letters  being 


THE  TOMB  OF  NOOR-JEHAN. 


135 


2xquisitely  formed  of  black  marble.  It  is  asserted  that  tbe 
whole  of  tbe  Koran  is  thus  inlaid,  in  tbe  Taj,  and  I can  read- 
ily believe  it  to  be  true.  Tbe  building  is  perfect  in  every 
part.  Any  dilapidations  it  may  bave  suffered  are  so  well 
restored  that  all  traces  of  them  bave  disappeared. 

I ascended  to  tbe  base  of  tbe  building — a gleaming  mar- 
ble platform,  almost  on  a level  with  tbe  tops  of  tbe  trees  in 
tbe  garden.  Before  entering  tbe  central  ball,  I descended  to 
tbe  vault  where  tbe  beautiful  Noor-Jeban  is  buried.  A slop- 
ing passage,  tbe  walls  and  floor  of  which  bave  been  so  polished 
by  tbe  hands  and  feet  of  thousands,  that  you  must  walk  care- 
fully to  avoid  sliding  down,  conducts  to  a spacious  vaulted 
chamber.  There  is  no  light  but  what  enters  tbe  door,  and 
this  falls  directly  upon  tbe  tomb  of  tbe  Queen  in  tbe  centre. 
Sbah-Jeban,  whose  ashes  are  covered  by  a simpler  cenotaph, 
raised  somewhat  above  hers,  sleeps  by  her  side.  Tbe  vault 
was  fllled  with  tbe  odors  of  rose,  jasmine,  and  sandal-wood, 
tbe  precious  attars  of  which  are  sprinkled  upon  tbe  tomb. 
Wreaths  of  beautiful  flowers  lay  upon  it,  or  withered  around 
its  base. 

These  were  tbe  true  tombs,  tbe  monuments  for  display 
being  placed  in  tbe  grand  ball  above,  which  is  a lofty  rotunda, 
lighted  both  from  above  and  below  by  screens  of  marble, 
wrought  in  filigree.  It  is  paved  with  blocks  of  white  marble 
and  jasper,  and  ornamented  with  a wainscoting  of  sculptured 
tablets,  representing  flowers.  Tbe  tombs  are  sarcophagi  of 
the  purest  marble,  exquisitely  inlaid  with  blood-stone,  agate, 
cornelian,  lapis-lazuli,  and  other  precious  stones,  and  sur- 
rounded with  an  octagonal  screen  six  feet  high,  in  tbe  open 
tracery  of  which  lilies,  irises,  and  other  flowers  are  inter- 


136 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


wrought  with  the  most  intricate  ornamental  designs.  This  is 
also  of  marble,  covered  with  precious  stones.  From  the  re- 
semblance of  this  screen  and  the  workmanship  of  the  tomb  to 
Florentine  mosaic,  it  is  supposed  by  some  to  have  been  exe- 
cuted by  an  Italian  artist ; and  I have  even  heard  it  stated 
that  the  Taj  was  designed  by  an  Italian  architect.  One 
look  at  the  Taj  ought  to  assure  any  intelligent  man  that  this 
is  false — nay,  impossible,  from  the  very  nature  of  the  thing. 
The  Taj  is  the  purest  Saracenic,  in  form,  proportions,  and 
ornamental  designs.  If  that  were  not  sufficient,  we  have  still 
the  name  of  the  Moslem  architect,  sculptured  upon  the 
building. 

I consider  it  extremely  doubtful  whether  any  Italian  had 
any  thing  to  do  with  the  work,  though  it  is  barely  possible 
that  one  may  have  been  employed  upon  the  screen  around  the 
tombs.  In  the  weekly  account  of  the  expenditures  for  the 
building  of  the  Taj,  there  is  a certain  sum  mentioned  as  paid 
to  “ the  foreign  stone-cutter,”  who  may  either  have  been 
Italian,  Turkish,  or  Persian.  As  for  the  flowers,  represented 
in  bas-relief  on  the  marble  panels,  it  has  been  said  that  they 
are  not  to  be  found  in  India.  Now  these  flowers,  as  near  as 
they  can  be  identified,  are  the  tulip,  the  iris,  (both  natives  of 
Persia,)  and  the  lotus.  But  I noticed  a curious  feature  in 
the  sculpture,  which  makes  it  clear  to  me  that  the  artist  was 
a native.  The  flowers  lack  perspective^  which  would  never 
have  been  the  fault  of  an  Italian  artist  of  Shah  Jehan’s 
time — about  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century.  Bishop 
Heber  has  declared  that  he  recognized  Italian  art  in  the 
ornaments  of  the  Taj,  but  he  declared  also  that  its  minarets 
have  no  beauty,  that  the  Fort  of  Agra  is  built  of  granite,  and 


THE  ECHO  UNDER  THE  DOME. 


137 


fell  into  many  other  glaring  errors,  both  of  taste  and  observa 
tion,  which  I have  no  time  to  point  out. 

The  dome  of  the  Taj  contains  an  echo  more  sweet,  pure 
and  prolonged  than  that  in  the  Baptistry  of  Pisa,  which  is 
the  finest  in  Europe.  A single  musical  tone,  uttered  by  the 
voice,  fioats  and  soars  overhead,  in  a long,  delicious  undula- 
tion, fainting  away  so  slowly  that  you  hear  it  after  it  is  silent, 
as  you  see,  or  seem  to  see,  a lark  you  have  been  watching, 
after  it  is  swallowed  up  in  the  blue  of  heaven.  I pictured  to 
myself  the  effect  of  an  Arabic  or  Persian  lament  for  the 
lovely  Noor  Jehan,  sung  over  her  tomb.  The  responses  that 
would  come  from  above,  in  the  pauses  of  the  song,  must  re- 
semble the  harmonies  of  angels  in  Paradise.  The  hall,  not- 
withstanding the  precious  materials  of  which  it  is  built,  and 
the  elaborate  finish  of  its  ornaments,  has  a grave  and  solemn 
effect,  infusing  a peaceful  serenity  of  mind,  such  as  we  feel 
when  contemplating  a happy  death.  Stern,  unimaginative 
persons  have  been  known  to  burst  suddenly  into  tears,  on  en- 
tering it ; and  whoever  can  behold  the  Taj  without  feeling  a 
thrill  that  sends  the  moisture  to  his  eye,  has  no  sense  of 
beauty  in  his  soul. 

The  Taj  truly  is,  as  I have  already  said,  a poem.  It  is 
not  only  a pure  architectural  type,  but  also  a creation  which 
satisfies  the  imagination,  because  its  characteristic  is  Beauty. 
Bid  you  ever  build  a Castle  in  the  Air?  Here  is  one, 
brought  down  to  earth,  and  fixed  for  the  wonder  of  ages ; yet 
so  light  it  seems,  so  airy,  and,  when  seen  from  a distance,  so 
like  a fabric  of  mist  and  sunbeams,  with  its  great  dome  soar- 
ing up,  a silvery  bubble,  about  to  burst  in  the  sun,  that,  even 
after  you  have  touched  it,  and  climbed  to  its  summit,  you 


138 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


almost  doubt  its  reality.  The  four  minarets  wbicb  surround 
it  are  perfect — nc  other  epithet  will  describe  them.  You 
cannot  conceive  of  their  proportions  being  changed  in  any 
way,  without  damage  to  the  general  effect.  On  one  side  of 
the  Taj  is  a mosque  with  three  domes,  of  red  sandstone,  cov- 
ered with  mosaic  of  white  marble.  Now,  on  the  opposite 
side,  there  is  a building  precisely  similar,  but  of  no  use  what- 
ever, except  as  a*  balance  to  the  mosque,  lest  the  perfect  sym- 
metry of  the  whole  design  should  be  spoiled.  This  building 
is  called  the  jowah^  or  “ answer.”  Nothing  can  better  illus- 
trate the  feeling  for  proportion  which  prevailed  in  those  day? 
— and  proportion  is  Art. 

In  comparing  these  masterpieces  of  architecture  with  the 
Moorish  remains  in  Spain,  which  resemble  them  most  nearly 
I have  been  struck  with  the  singular  fact,  that  while,  at  the 
central  seats  of  the  Moslem  Empire,  Art  reached  but  a com- 
parative degree  of  development,  here,  in  India,  and  there,  on 
the  opposite  and  most  distant  frontiers,  it  attained  a rapid 
and  splendid  culmination.  The  capitals  of  the  Caliphs  and 
the  Sultans — Bagdad,  Cairo,  Damascus,  and  Constantinople — 
stand  far  below  Agra  and  Delhi,  G-ranada  and  Seville,  in 
point  of  architecture,  notwithstanding  the  latter  cities  have 
but  few  and  scattered  remains.  It  is  not  improbable  that  the 
Moorish  architects,  after  the  fall  of  Granada,  gradually  made 
their  way  to  the  eastward,  and  that  their  art  was  thus  brought 
to  India — or,  at  least,  that  they  modified  and  improved  the 
art  then  existing.  The  conquest  of  India  by  Baber,  (grand- 
son of  Tamerlane  and  grandfather  of  Akbar,)  is  almost  coeval 
with  the  expulsion  of  the  Moors  from  Granada. 

But  the  sun  grows  hot;  it  is  nearly  noon.  We  have  spent 


PLAN  OP  SHAH  JEHAN. 


139 


three  hours  in  and  around  the  Taj,  and  we  must  leave  it. 
Nothing  that  is  beautiful  can  he  given  up  without  a pang,  but 
if  a man  would  travel,  he  must  endure  many  such  partings. 
T must  add,  however,  befoie  we  go,  that  on  the  opposite  bank 
of  the  Jumna  there  is  an  immense  foundation-terrace,  where- 
on, it  is  said,  Shah  Jehan  intended  to  erect  a tomb  for  him 
self,  of  equal  magnificence,  but  the  rebellion  of  his  sons,  and 
his  own  death,  prevented  it.  What  the  gods  permitted  to 
Love,  they  forbade  to  Yanity.  A shekh,  who  takes  care  of 
the  Taj,  told  me,  that  had  the  Emperor  carried  out  his  design, 
the  tombs  were  to  have  been  joined  by  a bridge,  with  a silver 
railing  on  each  side.  He  told  me  that  the  Taj,  with  its  gate- 
ways, mosque,  and  other  buildings  attached,  had  cost  seven 
crores  of  rupees — $35,000,000.  This,  however,  is  quite  im- 

possible, when  we  consider  the  cheapness  of  labor  in  those 
days,  and  I believe  the  real  cost  is  estimated  at  £3,000,000 
($15,000,000),  which  does  not  seem  exaggerated. 

On  the  same  evening,  after  visiting  the  Taj,  I left  Agra 
for  Delhi.  My  kind  host,  Mr.  W arren,  whose  hospitality  was 
untiring,  gave  me  letters  to  his  colleagues  in  other  parts  of 
India,  and  his  lady  furnished  me  with  the  needful  provisions 
for  the  journey.  I went  by  the  garreo-dawh^  which  was  a 
great  improvement  both  upon  the  banghy  and  mail-carts. 
There  were  three  rival  companies  for  the  conveyance  of  pas- 
sengers, by  carriages,  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Road,  as  it  is 
called,  extending  from  Calcutta  to  Delhi,  a distance  of  nine 
hundred  miles.  Four  years  ago,  there  was  no  other  way  of 
travelling,  except  on  horseback  or  in  a palanquin.  Progress 
in  India,  though  slow,  is  perceptible.  The  garree  resembles 
a cab,  with -the  space  between  the  back  and  front  seats  filled 


140 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN 


np  and  covered  witli  a mattrass.  You  provide  yourself  vnth  a 
quilt  and  pillow,  stow  your  baggage  into  the  bottom,  and  take 
your  ease,  as  if  upon  your  own  bed.  Thus  you  can  travel, 
and  even  sleep,  with  a tolerable  degree  of  comfort.  There 
are  relays  of  horses,  about  six  miles  apart,  and  if  no  accident 
should  happen,  the  garree  rolls  on  at  the  rate  of  seven  miles 
an  hour. 

I left  Agra  at  eight  o clock  in  the  evening.  It  was  a raw, 
misty,  moonlit  night,  and  I found  an  overcoat  indispensable. 
Indeed,  during  the  week  I spent  in  the  place,  I suffered  con- 
tinually from  cold.  We  had  fires  in  the  morning  and  even- 
ing, and  I was  fain  to  get  into  the  sun  at  mid-day,  though 
warned  not  to  expose  myself  to  his  rays.  There  was  no  frost, 
but  the  making  of  ice  was  carried  on  briskly,  and  three  thou- 
sand maunds  (120,000  lbs.)  were  already  stored  in  the  ice- 
house. I sat  up  to  take  a last  view  of  the  Fort  and  Jumma 
Musjeed,  paid  half  a rupee  toll  at  the  bridge  of  boats  over 
the  Jumna,  and  then  lay  down  on  my  mattrass,  to  try  the 
effect  of  my  new  conveyance.  It  was  really  quite  agreeable, 
and  except  when  the  horses  were  changed,  or  took  a fancy  to 
baulk  and  plunge,  I could  sleep  without  difficulty.  About 
three  o’clock  in  the  morning,  the  driver  awoke  me  to  an- 
nounce his  hudlee^  or  substitute,  (a  hint  for  backsheesh,)  de- 
claring that  we  were  at  Allyghur.  This  was  once  a strong 
fortress,  and  the  scene  of  a battle  between  the  English  and 
native  troops.  There  is  a pillar  erected  to  commemorate  it, 
which  pillar  I saw  in  the  moonlight,  as  we  drove  on  towards 
Delhi. 

The  morning  showed  a splendid  road,  leading  over  a 
boundless  plain,  covered  with  fields  of  wheat,  barley,  mustard 


APPROACH  TO  DELHI. 


141 


and  poppies,  and  dotted  with  groves  of  mango  or  tamarind 
trees.  Its  aspect  continued  unvaried  for  hours,  except  that 
there  was  once  or  twice  a low  red  hill  in  the  distance,  or  a 
native  town,  with  whitewashed  mosques  and  mouldy  Hindoo 
temples  near  at  hand.  The  road  was  crowded  with  native 
travellers,  with  bullock-carts,  ponies,  and  on  foot,  and  other 
garrees^  conveying  the  “ sahib  log  ” (nobility)  of  the  land, 
passed  me  frequently.  I noticed  a sort  of  native  omnibus, 
drawn  by  slow  horses,  wherein  natives,  and  they  only,  are 
conveyed  at  the  rate  of  one  anna  (three  cents)  per  mile.  This 
is  a recent  invention. 

The  plain  gradually  lost  its  mango  groves,  and  assumed  a 
bleak  and  sterile  appearance.  I crossed  a river  by  a hand- 
some suspension  bridge,  then  the  Eastern  Jumna  Canal,  and 
in  the  afternoon,  when  still  twelve  miles  distant  from  Delhi, 
descried  its  mosques  on  the  horizon.  As  I approached,  the 
great  fortress-palace  built  by  Shah  Jehan,  (nearly  as  large  as 
the  Fort,  at  Agra,)  rose  from  the  plain.  The  city,  which  lies 
to  the  west  of  it,  was  almost  hidden  by  trees,  which  belt  it 
around.  The  superb  domes  of  the  great  mosque  rose  above 
them,  and  on  either  hand  I could  see  immense  tombs  and 
other  ruined  edifices,  scattered  far  and  wide  over  the  plain. 
I crossed  the  Jumna,  which  is  here  as  broad  as  at  Agra,  by  a 
bridge  of  boats,  passed  a very  old,  crumbling  fortress,  over- 
grown with  trees  and  bushes,  then  the  Imperial  Palace,  now 
occupied  by  His  Majesty,  Akbar  II.,  and  was  finally  set  down 
at  the  dawk  bungalow.  The  first  thing  I did,  on  arriving  in 
the  capital  of  the  Great  Mogul,  was  to  order  dinner,  and  by 
the  time  that  business  was  over,  it  was  too  dark  to  see  any 
thing  of  the  city.  I had  a letter  to  Mr.  Place,  of  the  Delhi 


142 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


hi  Gazette^  and  after  making  many  inquiries  of  the  chokcdar, 
who  finally  recognized  him  as  being  “ Palace  Sahib  ” and  the 
“ chap;pa-khana-walla  ” (printing-office  fellow  •)  procured  a 
guide  to  his  residence.  The  next  morning  I shifted  my  quar- 
fers  to  the  shelter  of  his  hospitable  root 


CHAPTER  XI 


THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  GREAT  MOGUL. 


Delhi — The  Mogul  Empire  at  Present — Ruins  of  former  Delhis — The  Observatory—  A 
Wilderness  of  Ruin — Tomb  of  Sufdm^ung — The  Khuttub  Minar — Its  Beauty — View 
from  tile  Summit — Uncertainty  of  its  Origin — The  Palace  of  Aladdin — Ruins  of  a 
Hindoo  Temple — Tomb  of  the  Emperor  Humayoon — Of  Nizam-ud-deen — Native 
Sam  Patches — Old  Delhi — Aspect  of  the  Modern  City — The  Chandnee  Choke — Ba- 
yaderes— Delhi  Artisans  and  Artists — The  Jumma  Musjeed — A Hindoo  Minstrel  and 
his  Songs — The  Palace  of  Akbar  II.— Neglect  and  Desolation — The  Diwan — An 
Elysium  on  Earth— The  Throne  Hall— The  Crystal  Throne— The  Court  of  Akbar  II. 
— A Farce  of  Empire — The  Gardens — Voices  of  the  Sultanas — Palace  Pastimes. 

Delhi  is  tlie  Imperial  City  of  India,  having  been  chosen  by 
the  Mogul  Conquerors  as  their  capital,  which  it  thenceforth 
remained,  except  during  the  reign  of  Akbar.  After  the 
death  of  Aurungzebe,  the  power  of  the  Emperors  gradually 
declined ; the  Mahrattas  and  Rajpoots  laid  waste  and  seized 
upon  their  territories,  and  finally  the  English,  who  found  that 
the  shortest  way  of  effecting  their  object  as  peace-makers  was 
to  become  conquerors,  took  what  fragments  remained  of  the 
Empire.  The  sovereignty,  however,  is  still  acknowledged  and 
treated  with  the  same  outward  ceremonials  of  respect  and 
submission,  as  when  the  Company  owned  nothing  but  a fac- 
tory in  Bengal,  and  the  Mogul  was  lord  of  all  India.  The 
dominions  of  Akbar  II.,  the  present  Emperor,  the  lineal  de- 
scendant of  the  House  of  Tamerlane  and  his  illustrious  suo- 


144 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


cessors,  are  embraced  within  the  walls  of  his  palace,  and  com- 
prise rather  less  than  a square  half  mile.  The  Government 
allows  fourteen  lacs  of  rupees  ($700,000)  annually  for  the 
maintenance  of  himself,  his  family,  and  the  princes  attached 
to  his  Court — a large  and  hungry  retinue,  many  of  whom 
cannot  venture  outside  of  the  walls  without  running  the  risk 
of  being  seized  for  his  debts.  They  are  all  in  debt,  from  the 
Emperor  to  his  lowest  menials,  and  the  Government  allow- 
ance is  always  conveyed  to  the  Palace  under  a strong  guard, 
to  prevent  its  being  forcibly  carried  off  by  the  creditors. 
This  pitiful  farce  of  Royalty  is  all  that  remains  of  the  Mogul 
Empire — once  the  most  powerful  and  enlightened  sovereignty 
in  Asia. 

The  modern  City  of  Delhi  is  the  latest  of  the  name,  and 
having  been  founded  by  Shah  Jehan,  is  still  called  by  the 
natives  Shahjehanabad.  There  were  several  Delhis,  one  of 
the  oldest  of  which  is  the  city  built  by  Toglukh,  and  called 
Toglukhabad,  the  ruins  of  which  lie  about  fifteen  miles  to  the 
south  of  the  present  city.  Another  city,  now  called  Old 
Delhi,  built  during  one  of  the  succeeding  reigns,  is  about  two 
miles  distant.  It  is  still  surrounded  by  lofty  walls,  with  cir- 
cular stone  bastions,  and  has  several  thousand  inhabitants. 
But  all  of  the  country  south  of  the  Jumna,  for  an  extent  of 
more  than  ten  miles  in  every  direction,  is  strewed  with  the 
ruins  of  palaces,  mosques,  and  tombs.  Whenever  the  city 
was  taken  and  desolated  in  the  early  wars,  instead  of  rebuild- 
ing it,  the  inhabitants  founded  a new  one  in  the  vicinity ; and 
afterwards,  whenever  the  caprice  of  an  Emperor  prompted 
him  to  erect  a new  palace,  the  nobles,  and  after  them  the 
common  people,  gradually  shifted  their  residences,  until  the 


RUINS  OF  THE  OBSERVATORY. 


145 


location  of  the  city  was  quite  changed ; and  thus,  for  centu- 
ries, Delhi  continued  to  be  a migratory  capital.  For  the  last 
two  centuries  it  has  been  stationary,  and  will  now  probably 
remain  so.  But  the  ruins  of  the  former  Delhis  cover  a much 
greater  space  than  that  occupied  by  the  ruins  of  Thebes,  and 
had  they  all  belonged  to  one  city,  it  would  have  been  the 
greatest  in  the  world. 

On  the  day  after  my  arrival,  Mr.  Place  drove  me  in  his 
carriage  to  the  Khuttub  Minar,  the  pride  and  boast  of  Delhi, 
as  the  Taj  is  of  Agra.  It  is  eleven  miles  distant,  in  a south- 
westerly direction.  This,  again,  was  a day  to  be  remembered. 
We  left  at  an  early  hour,  and  without  entering  the  city,  drove 
along  its  walls,  past  the  Cashmere  and  Lahore  Gates.  It  was 
a balmy  morning,  with  a pure,  crystalline  atmosphere,  such  as 
I had  not  seen  for  weeks.  The  air  seemed  to  be  more  dry 
and  bracing  than  at  Agra,  for  though  the  temperature  was 
lower,  I felt  the  cold  much  less  keenly.  At  a short  distance 
from  the  city,  we  came  upon  the  ruins  of  a magnificent  obser- 
vatory. The  most  prominent  object  was  a colossal  gnomon, 
built  of  stone,  and  rising  to  the  height  of  near  forty  feet. 
Around  this  was  a circular  plane,  precisely  parallel  to  that  of 
the  ecliptic,  and  nearly  a hundred  feet  in  diameter.  There 
were  also  two  circular  buildings,  with  a double  row  of  narrow 
slits,  or  embrasures,  around  them,  and  the  remains  of  stone 
tables  in  the  inside,  the  circumferences  of  which  were  divided 
into  degrees.  These  buildings  were  no  doubt  intended  for  ob- 
serving the  rising  and  setting  of  stars,  measuring  their  dis- 
tances from  each  other,  and  other  similar  processes.  The  ob- 
servatory could  only  have  been  used  for  astronomical  observa- 
tions of  a very  simple  character. 

7 


146 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


Beyond  this  all  was  ruin.  The  country  was  uneven  and 
covered  in  all  directions,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  with 
masses  of  stone  and  brick,  the  remains  of  walls  and  arches,  and 
the  tombs  of  princes,  saints  and  scholars  who  flourished  during 
the  Mogul  dynasty.  The  tombs  were  large  square  buildings, 
surmounted  with  domes.  Some  were  merely  of  brick  and 
mortar,  but  others  of  sandstone  and  white  marble,  and  adorned 
with  very  elegant  gateways.  Grass  and  bushes  were  growing 
out  of  the  rifts  of  the  domes,  and  the  seeds  of  the  peepul  tree, 
taking  root  in  the  mortar,  had  in  many  places  split  asunder  the 
strongest  masses  of  masonry.  During  many  miles  of  our  jour- 
ney, there  was  scarcely  a change  in  the  melancholy  panorama. 
Ruin  succeeded  ruin,  and  between  and  beyond  them  there  were 
but  perspectives  of  ruin  in  the  distance.  The  habitations  of 
men  were  few  and  scattered,  and  but  little  of  the  soil  showed 
any  appearance  of  cultivation.  The  wild  vulture  hovered  sul- 
lenly over  the  waste,  and  the  fox  and  jackal  sneaked  about  the 
crumbling  walls.  That  beautiful  fragment  of  Persian  poetry, 
recited  by  Mahmoud  the  Conqueror,  as  he  entered  Constanti- 
nople, came  into  my  mind  : The  spider  hath  woven  his  web  in 

the  imperial  palaces ; and  the  owl  hath  sung  her  watch-song  on 
the  towers  of  Afrasiab.” 

About  six  miles  from  Delhi  we  came  upon  the  splendid 
tomb  of  Sufdur  Jung,  a prince  who  was  connected  with  the 
royal  house  of  Oude.  It  resembles  the  Taj  in  design,  but  is 
smaller,  and  built  of  a mixture  of  sandstone  and  marble,  the 
effect  of  which  is  very  beautiful  and  pleasing.  The  present 
King  of  Oude  has  appointed  a sum  for  its  repair  and  preser- 
vation, but  there  are  no  signs,  in  the  general  air  of  neglect 
which  pervades  the  place,  of  any  money  having  been  thus  ap- 


THE  KHCTTUB  MINAR. 


147 


plied  I was  quite  charmed  with  the  beauty  of  the  architec- 
tural details,  in  this  edifice ; the  arched  windows,  the  vaulted 
ceilings  of  the  chambers,  and  the  designs  of  the  marble  bal- 
conies, were  among  the  finest  things  of  the  kind  which  I saw 
in  India. 

From  the  top  of  the  tomb  we  first  saw  the  Khuttub  Minar, 
and  after  five  more  miles  of  ruin,  drew  up  in  the  court-yard  of  a 
caravanserai  near  its  base.  The  unusual  form  of  the  Khuttub 
detracts  from  its  height,  when  seen  from  a distance,  but  greatly 
increases  it  on  a nearer  view,  by  exaggerating  the  perspective. 
Hence,  unlike  some  towers  which  seem  to  shrink  as  you  ap- 
proach them,  the  Khuttub,  which  at  a few  miles’  distance  re- 
sembles an  ordinary  factory-chimney,  swells  to  a sublime  altitude 
when  you  are  in  its  vicinity.  It  is  a round  pillar,  of  240  feet 
in  height,  the  diameter  at  the  base  being  35  feet,  but  gradually 
diminishing  to  less  than  10  feet  at  the  top.  It  is  divided  into 
five  stories,  the  relative  height  of  which  decreases  in  the  same 
ratio  as  the  diameter  of  the  shaft.  Each  story  has  a heavy 
cornice  of  the  richest  sculpture,  surmounted  by  a low  stone 
balustrade.  The  three  lower  stories  are  entirely  of  red  sand- 
stone, fluted,  or  rather  reeded  with  alternate  convex  and  angu- 
lar divisions,  and  belted  at  short  intervals  by  bands  of  Arabic 
inscriptions,  sculptured  in  relief,  and  of  colossal  size.  The  two 
highest  stories  are  mostly  of  white  marble,  without  inscriptions, 
and  deviate  slightly  from  the  diminishing  slope  of  the  pillar, 
whence  it  is  generally  supposed  that  they  were  added  at  a later 
period.  Some  English  officers,  thinking  to  improve  the  work, 
crowned  it  with  a grotesque  cupola,  which  was  a ridiculous  ex- 
crescence on  the  shaft,  until  Lord  Hardiuge  ordered  it  to  be 
taken  down. 


f 

148  INDIA,  CHINA,  AUTD  JAPAN. 

Such  are  the  dimensions  and  style  of  the  renowned  Khut* 
tub,  but  they  are  very  far  from  expressing  the  majesty  of  its 
appearance,  or  the  rich  and  gorgeous  sculpture  with  which  it  is 
adorned.  As  I stood  a short  distance  from  the  base,  my  gaze 
travelling  slowly  from  bottom  to  top,  and  from  top  to  bottom, 
Mr.  Place  declared  it  to  be  the  finest  single  tower  in  the  world, 
and  asked  me  whether  I did  not  think  so.  I said,  “ No,”  for 
just  then  I had  Giotto’s  Florentine  Campanile  and  the  Giralda 
of  Seville  in  my  mind,  and  could  not  venture  to  place  it  above 
them ; but  the  longer  I looked,  the  more  its  beauty  grew  upon 
me,  and  after  spending  three  or  four  hours  in  its  vicinity,  I no 
longer  doubted.  It  zs,  beyond  question,  the  finest  shaft  in  the 
world.  ‘ 

We  mounted  to  the  summit  by  a winding  staircase  of  378 
steps,  which  became  so  narrow,  as  the  diameter  of  the  shaft 
diminished,  that  some  of  my  corpulent  friends  could  never 
have  reached  the  top.  The  view  was  very  extensive,  and  on 
such  a bright,  warm  day,  very  beautiful,  in  spite  of  its  deso- 
lation. On  all  sides  there  vv^as  a brown,  undulating  waste,  dot- 
ted with  ruins,  but  enlivened  by  an  occasional  garden  or  wheat- 
field.  Low,  red  hills  in  the  south  and  west,  a glimpse  of  a 
blue  lake  in  the  distance,  the  massive  battlements  of  the  de- 
serted City  of  Toglukh  in  the  south-east,  and  the  domes  of 
Delhi  in  the  north,  made  up  the  panorama.  When  the  air  is 
very  clear,  the  crests  of  the  Himalayas,  two  hundred  miles 
distant,  can  be  discerned  on  the  horizon. 

There  is  a difference  of  opinion  as  to  whether  the  Khut- 
tub  is  of  Hindoo  or  Moslem  origin.  Nothing  positive  is 
known  concerning  the  date  or  design  of  its  erection.  Some 
suppose  it  to  have  been  a watch-tower,  others  a monument, 


UNCERTAINTY  OF  ITS  ORIGIN. 


140 


others  a minaret,  others  again  a gigantic  symbol  of  Shiva 
Both  the  Hindoos  and  the  Moslems  claim  it,  the  former  alleg- 
ing that  the  Arabic  inscriptions  were  subsequently  added  by 
the  conquerors.  A short  distance  to  the  north  there  is  the 
base  of  a tower  similar  in  design,  but  of  much  grander  di 
mensions,  the  building  of  which  was  relinquished  after  it  had 
been  raised  about  fifty  feet  from  the  ground.  This,  the  Hindoos 
say,  was  commenced  by  the  Moslems,  in  order  to  surpass  the 
Khuttub,  which  they  found  impossible.  Without  entering  into 
a discussion  for  which  I am  not  prepared,  I may  venture  to 
say  that  the  three  lowest  stories  appear  to  me  to  be  of  Hindoo 
construction,  both  from  the  singular  manner  in  which  the  shaft 
is  reeded,  and  from  the  absence  of  arches  in  the  openings  for 
air  and  light.  The  arch  (which  was  first  introduced  into  India 
by  the  Moslems)  appears  in  the  upper  stories,  and  it  is  generally 
admitted  that  they  were  added  at  a later  period.  Some  of  the 
Arabic  inscriptions  refer  to  the  repair  of  the  shaft,  and  date  from 
the  reign  of  Feroze  Shah,  about  four  and  a half  centuries  ago. 

The  Khuttub  stands  in  the  midst  of  a wilderness  of  ruins. 
There  are  the  arcades  of  what  was  once  a splendid  Hindoo 
temple,  changed  into  the  court-yard  of  a mosque  which  was 
begun  on  a magnificent  scale,  but  never  finished,  and  the  con- 
flicting styles  are  mixed  together  in  the  most  incongruous 
manner.  A college  of  marble  and  sandstone,  in  the  later 
Moorish  style,  stands  on  one  side  of  it,  and  a few  hundred 
paces  in  an  opposite  direction,  lie  the  ruins — fancy  such  a thing, 
if  you  can — of  the  palace  of  Aladdin ! The  genii  have  taken 
back  their  windows  of  ruby  and  pearl,  the  gold  and  ivory  have 
disappeared,  and  there  are  now  only  a few  shapeless  chambers, 
tottering  to  their  fall.  The  remains  of  the  Hindoo  temple 


150 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


show  that  it  must  ha^e  been  one  of  the  finest  in  this  part  of 
India.  The  arcades  are  supported  on  several  hundred  columns, 
scarcely  any  of  which  are  similar.  They  are  covered,  from  cap 
to  pedestal,  with  elaborate  sculpture,  including  figures  of  the 
gods,  of  dogs,  horses,  monkeys  and  elephants,  of  the  chain  and 
bell,  the  pomegranate,  and  other  religious  emblems.  The 
domes  at  the  corners  of  the  quadrangles  are  not  vaulted,  but 
formed  by  flat  stones  laid  diagonally  across  and  overlapping 
each  other,  as  in  the  Cyclopean  remains  of  Italy.  In  the  court 
stands  a pillar  of  iron  about  eighteen  feet  high,  and  called  by 
the  natives  “ Feroze  Shah’s  Walking-Stick.”  It  bears  an  in- 
scription in  a very  ancient  character,  which  long  puzzled  the 
scholars,  but  was  finally  deciphered  by  Mr.  Prinsep.  The  col- 
umn appears  to  have  been  set  up  in  token  of  victory,  by  a king 
who  flourished  about  a century  before  the  Christian  Era. 
There  are  others,  similar  to  it,  in  other  parts  of  India. 

There  was  not  sufficient  time  to  visit  Toglukhabad — the 
ruins  of  which,  indeed,  are  only  remarkable  for  their  massive 
masonry ; so,  after  peeping  into  Sir  Theophilus  Metcalf’s  elegant 
country  residence,  which  was  made  out  of  one  of  the  old  tombs, 
we  drove  back  to  Delhi,  taking  the  tomb  of  the  Emperor  Hu- 
mayoon  by  the  way.  This  lies  to  the  south-east  of  the  city, 
adjoining  a walled  palace  or  fortress,  which  is  still  inhabited. 
The  tomb  is  on  a grand  scale,  rising  to  the  height  of  one  hun 
dred  feet,  from  a noble  terrace  of  solid  masonry,  but  has  a most 
wretched,  forlorn  air.  The  floors  are  covered  with  litter  and 
filth,  the  marble  screens  broken  and  battered,  the  dome  given 
to  bats  and  owls,  and  the  spacious  garden  has  become  a waste 
of  weeds.  From  the  terrace,  I counted  upwards  of  fifty  simi- 
lar palaces  of  the  dead,  several  of  them,  if  not  on  a scale  of 


NATIVE  SAM  PATCHES. 


151 


e(iual  grandeur,  yet  even  superior  in  design  and  in  the  richness 
of  their  decoration. 

There  was  an  old  porter,  who  attended  for  the  sake  of  a 
trifle,  by  way  of  backsheesh,  and  on  our  leaving,  urged  us  to 
visit  the  tomb  of  Nizam-ud-deen.  I was  beginning  to  feel  tired 
of  so  much  decayed  splendor,  but  my  friend  said  that  the  place 
was  really  curious,  and  so  we  drove  back  about  half  a mile. 
Here  there  was  a small  native  village — perhaps  a remnant  of 
one  of  the  old  Delhis — crowded  in  among  the  tombs.  Nizam- 
ud-deen  had  truly  a splendid  mausoleum,  of  white  marble  with 
gilded  domes,  and  there  was  an  inclosure  of  marble  fretwork 
of  great  beauty,  surrounding  the  tomb  of  a daughter  of  the 
present  Emperor.  It  was  a labyrinth  of  a place,  with  a dark, 
deep  tank  in  the  midst,  surrounded  by  high  walls  on  three  sides, 
with  a flight  of  steps  leading  down  to  the  water,  on  the  fourth 
side.  While  we  were  looking  into  it,  three  or  four  half  naked 
boys  made  their  appearance  on  the  high  roofs  overhanging  the 
tank,  and  offered  to  jump  down,  for  a few  annas  apiece.  I ac- 
cordingly agreed,  hardly  thinking  they  would  dare  such  a thing, 
when  three  of  them  boldly  sprang  from  the  highest  platform, 
about  seventy  feet  above  the  water.  The  fearful  picture  they 
made  in  descending  quite  took  away  my  breath,  and  there  was 
a sound  when  they  struck  the  surface,  as  if  they  had  fallen  upon 
stone.  They  soon  rose  again,  and  came  scrambling  up  the 
steps  to  get  their  money,  complaining,  with  chattering  teeth, 
of  the  coldness  of  the  water. 

In  returning  to  the  city,  we  passed  around  the  walls  of  Old 
Delhi,  which  are  upward  of  eighty  feet  high.  I was  anxious 
to  see  the  interior,  but  it  was  then  too  late,  and  another  oppor- 
tunity did  not  afterwards  occur.  Mr.  Place,  who  had  resided 


152 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


in  Delhi  for  ten  years,  told  me  that  he  had  never  been  inside 
the  walls. 

Modern  Delhi  was  the  largest  and  most  picturesque  native 
city  I had  then  seen.  The  houses  are  of  brick  and  stucco, 
painted  in  gay  colors,  and  very  few  of  them  less  than  two  stories 
in  height.  They  have  tiled  roofs,  which  gives  the  place,  when 
seen  from  a minaret,  a strong  resemblance  to  Smyrna,  and  other 
large  Turkish  towns.  It  covers  an  extent  of  about  two  square 
miles,  but  is  very  compactly  built,  and  the  population  is  reck- 
oned at  near  200,000  souls.  Most  of  the  European  residents 
have  their  bungalows  on  the  heights  outside  of  the  Cashmere 
Gate,  and  near  the  military  cantonments.  There  is  an  aque- 
duct of  hewn  stone  traversing  the  city,  which  supplies  the  in- 
habitants with  drinking  water,  brought  from  a distance  of  sev- 
enty-five miles,  the  water  of  the  Jumna  being  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  natron,  and  injurious  to  health.  The  palace,  which 
is  surrounded  by  a deep  moat,  has  a massive  gateway  and  bar- 
bican in  the  centre  of  its  western  front.  An  open  space  in- 
tervenes between  it  and  the  city,  and  exactly  opposite  the 
gateway  begins  the  Chandnee  Choke — the  Broadway  of  Delhi, 
which  runs  directly  through  the  centre  of  the  city,  to  the 
Lahore  Gate.  It  is  a noble  avenue,  somewhat  resembling  a 
Parisian  houlevard^  having  a small  aqueduct,  fringed  with  trees, 
on  each  side  of  the  main  highway,  and  separating  it  from  the 
paved  sidewalks.  The  houses  are  made  picturesque  by  their 
wooden  galleries  and  balconies,  and  some  of  them  are  very 
pretty  specimens  of  architecture. 

When  the  heat  of  the  day  has  subsided,  and  the  afternoon 
shadows  are  growing  long  and  cool,  all  the  natives  of  any 
standing  or  pretension  repair  to  the  Chandnee  Choke.  Then 


THE  CHANDNEE  CHOKE. 


153 


broad  as  it  is,  it  can  scarcely'  contain  the  gay  throngs  that  parade 
up  and  down  its  whole  extent.  There  are  Princes  of  the  Em 
peror’s  Court,  mounted  on  brilliantly  caparisoned  elephants ; 
country  Chiefs  on  horseback,  with  a fierce  air,  and  weapons  in 
abundance ; Hindoo  Baboos,  with  the  symbol  of  their  caste 
painted  on  their  foreheads ; hackreeSy  drawn  by  bullocks,  and 
resembling  pagodas  on  wheels,  behind  whose  tassels  and  dusty 
red  curtains  sit  the  discreet  ladies  of  the  land ; travelling  mer- 
chants, slowly  pacing  along  on  camels;  Sikhs,  with  forked 
black  beards;  long-locked  Afighans,  with  bright,  treacherous 
eyes;  and  Persians,  grave  as  the  maxims  of  Saadi,  besides  a 
vast  retinue  on  foot,  exhibiting  the  most  brilliant  combinations 
of  color  in  their  garments.  The  ordinary  dress  is  pure  white, 
but  here  you  see  in  addition,  caps  and  scarfs  of  the  most  vivid 
shades  of  crimson,  blue,  green,  yellow  and  orange,  with  a pro- 
fusion of  gold  fringe  and  spangles.  The  merchants  sit  cross- 
legged  in  their  shops,  looking  out  on  the  array,  and  chatting 
cheerfully  with  passing  acquaintances,  while  from  the  balconies 
above,  the  Bayaderes,  clad  in  their  most  attractive  finery,  play 
the  part  of  sirens  to  the  crowd  below. 

Here,  as  in  Egypt,  only  females  of  this  class  are  allowed 
to  show  their  faces  unveiled,  and  one  has  no  other  authority 
for  forming  an  opinion  regarding  the  beauty  of  the  sex. 
Among  the  many  faces  I saw  while  passing  through  the 
Chandnee  Choke,  there  were  but  two  which  were  really  beau- 
tiful, while  most  of  them  were  so  coarse  and  repulsive  that  I 
should  think  there  was  little  danger  of  their  drawing  many 
victims  into  their  toils.  But  there  was  scarcely  a house,  the 
upper  story  of  which  was  not  occupied  by  these  creatures. 
A native  court  in  India,  with  its  army  of  pensioned  idlers,  is 
7* 


154 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN 


a hot-bed  for  all  forms  of  vice,  and  Delhi  is  only  surpassed  in 
this  respect  by  Lucknow  and  Hyderabad. 

- In  addition  to  the  manufacture  of  shawls  and  scarfs,  in 
which  its  artisans  are  only  inferior  to  those  of  Cashmere  and 
Umritsir,  Delhi  is  celebrated  for  its  jewelry.  The  gold  and 
silver  smiths  produce  articles  of  exquisite  workmanship,  and 
occasionally  very  fine  jewels  are  to  be  met  with.  Those  of  a 
secondary  value,  such  as  agate,  onyx,  cornelian,  topaz,  car- 
buncle and  moon-stone,  are  very  plentiful,  and  may  be  had  at 
a trifling  rate.  The  bed  of  the  Jumna  abounds  in  beautiful 
cornelians,  sards  and  agates.  In  rambling  among  the  shops  I 
saw  several  natives  of  Cashmere,  who  were  exceedingly  hand- 
some men,  with  skin  as  fair  as  a European’s  and  soft  brown  hair. 
They  belonged  evidently  to  the  pure  Caucasian  stock.  A na- 
tive miniature  painter  showed  me  the  portrait  of  a Cashmerian 
Sultana,  which  was  a vision  of  perfect  loveliness.  The  features 
were  like  those  of  a high-born  English  beauty,  but  with  an  en- 
chanting touch  of  Southern  languor  in  the  dark  eye,  the  droop- 
ing, fringed  lid,  and  the  full,  crimson  lip.  He  had  also  a portrait 
of 'Tootee  Beegum,  a Sikh  princess,  whose  style  of  beauty  was 
thoroughly  Oriental — a brilliant,  passionate  face,  capable  of  ex- 
pressing the  extremes  of  firmness  and  tenderness.  The  delicacy 
of  touch  and  artistic  truth  of  these  native  artists  is  extraordi- 
nary. I know  of  but  few  miniature  painters  in  America  who 
could  equal  them.  In  landscapes  they  are  not  so  successful 
for  though  the  pictures  are  very  laboriously  finished,  and  show 
a fair  idea  of  perspective,  they  lack  color  and  atmosphere. 

The  Jumma  (or  Jooma)  Musjeed  at  Delhi  is  a noble  struc- 
ture, equalled  only,  as  a mosque,  by  the  Motee  Musjeed  at 
Agra.  It  is  on  a much  larger  scale  than  the  latter.  It  stands 


THE  JUMMA  OF  MUSJEED. 


156 


in  the  middle  of  the  city,  at  the  meeting  of  four  of  the  prin- 
cipal streets,  and  is  raised  on  a grand  platform  of  masonry, 
twenty  feet  high,  with  broad  flights  of  steps  leading  up  on 
each  side.  The  material  is  sandstone  and  white  marble,  the 
three  superb  domes  being  built  of  both,  disposed  in  vertical 
bands,  or  stripes.  At  a distance,  when  softened  by  the  haze, 
they  resemble  huge  balloons  of  striped  silk,  hovering  over  the 
city.  We  were  allowed  to  walk  rough-shod  through  the  court- 
yard, and  to  climb  one  of  the  minarets,  but  two  Hindoo  pil- 
grims from  Ajmere  were  ignominiously  driven  out,  on  attempt- 
ing to  enter.  We  inquired  the  reason  of  this,  and  were  told 
that  the  “ sahib  ” had  ordered  it  so,  on  account  of  recent 
fights  which  had  occurred  between  the  rival  sects.  The  two 
religions,  nevertheless,  are  blended  in  some  degree  among  the 
low  and  ignorant  classes,  the  shrines  and  sacred  places  of  each 
being  held  in  common  reverence  by  them.  The  two  Rajpoots 
whom  we  saw  ejected,  seemed  vvwy  much  mortified  that  they 
were  not  allowed  to  visit  this  sanctuary  of  the  Mussulmen. 

A very  curious  illustration  of  Progress  in  India  was  fur- 
nished to  me  one  day,  during  my  sojourn  with  Mr.  Place. 
We  were  dining  together  in  his  bungalow,  when  a wandering 
Hindoo  minstrel  came  along  with  his  mandolin,  and  request- 
ed permission  to  sit  upon  the  verandah  and  play  for  us.  I 
was  desirous  of  hearing  some  of  the  Indian  airs,  and  my  host 
therefore  ordered  him  to  perform  during  dinner.  He  tuned 
the  wires  of  his  mandolin,  extemporized  a prelude  which  had 
some  very  familiar  passages,  and  to  my  complete  astonishment, 
began  singing : “ Get  out  of  the  way,  Old  Dan  Tucker ! ” 
The  old  man  seemed  to  enjoy  my  surprise,  and  followed  up  his 
performance  with  “ Oh,  Susanna ! ” “ Buffalo  Gals,”  and  other 


166 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


choice  Ethiopian  melodies,  all  of  which  he  sang  with  admira- 
ble spirit  and  correctness.  I addressed  him  in  English,  but 
found  that  he  did  not  understand  a word  of  the  language,  and 
had  no  conception  of  the  nature  of  the  songs  he  had  given  us. 
He  had  heard  some  young  English  officers  singing  them  at 
Madras,  and  was  indebted  entirely  to  his  memory  for  both  the 
melodies  and  words.  It  was  vain  to  ask  him  for  his  native 
Indian  airs : he  was  fascinated  with  the  spirit  of  our  national 
music,  and  sang  with  a grin  of  delight  which  was  very  amusing. 
As  a climax  of  skill,  he  closed  with  “ Malbrooh  se  va-t-en 
guerre^  ” but  his  pronunciation  of  French  was  not  quite  so 
successful.  I had  heard  Spanish  boatmen  on  the  Isthmus  of 
Panama  singing  “ Carry  me  back  to  ole  Virginny,”  and  Arab 
boys  in  the  streets  of  Alexandria  humming  “ Lucy  Long,”  but 
I was  hardly  prepared  to  hear  the  same  airs  from  the  lips 
of  a Hindoo,  in  the  capital  of  the  Great  Mogul. 

It  only  remains  for  me  to  describe  my  visit  to  the  Empe- 
ror’s Palace.  Mr.  Place  having  previously  sent  a messenger 
to  announce  the  visit,  we  found  two  chobdars  (beadles)  with 
silver  maces,  waiting  for  us  outside  of  the  great  gate.  We 
were  allowed  to  drive  through,  the  sentinels  presenting  arms, 
. into  a small  court,  through  a second  bastioned  gateway,  and 
down  a stately,  vaulted  passage,  to  a large,  open  quadrangle, 
where  we  dismounted  and  proceeded  on  foot.  The  vaulted 
gallery  must  have  once  been  an  imposing  prelude  to  the  splen- 
dors of  the  palace,  but  it  is  now  dirty  and  dilapidated,  and  the 
quadrangle  into  which  it  ushers  the  visitor  resembles  a great 
barn-yard,  filled  with  tattered  grooms,  lean  horses  and  mangy 
elephants.  The  buildings  surrounding  it  were  heavy  masses 
of  brick  and  sandstone,  and  were  rapidly  falling  into  ruin, 


AN  ELYSIUM  ON  EARTH. 


157 


But  there  was  another  gate  before  us,  and  I hastened  through 
it,  hoping  to  find  something  which  would  repay  the  promise  of 
the  magnificent  exterior.  There  was,  indeed,  the  Palace  of 
Shah  Jehan,  but  in  what  condition ! Porticoes  of  marble, 
spoiled  by  dust  and  whitewash,  exquisite  mosaics  with  all  the 
precious  stones  gouged  out,  gilded  domes  glittering  over  courts 
heaped  with  filth,  and  populated  with  a retinue  of  beggarly 
menials.  This  was  all  that  was  left  of  the  Empire  of  Tamer- 
lane and  Akbar — a miserable  life-in-death,  which  was  far  more 
melancholy  than  complete  ruin. 

The  only  parts  of  the  palace  I was  allowed  to  see  were  the 
diwan^  the  throne-hall  and  the  mosque — all  of  which  bear  a 
general  resemblance  to  the  palace  of  Akbar,  at  Agra,  but  are 
more  wantonly  despoiled.  The  diwan  is  an  elegant  arcade, 
formed  by  three  rows  of  arches,  with  a pavilion  of  the  purest 
marble  in  the  centre,  inlaid  with  gold  and  precious  stones. 
Over  this  pavilion  is  the  inscription  in  Persian,  which  Moore 
lias  introduced  in  his  “ Light  of  the  Harem,” — “ If  there  be 
an  Elysium  on  Earth,  it  is  here — it  is  here.”  What  an  Elysi- 
um at  present ! 

The  throne-hall  is  a square  canopy  resting  on  massive 
square  pillars.  It  is  constructed  entirely  of  white  marble, 
very  highly  polished,  the  pillars  being  inlaid  with  cornelian 
and  bloodstone,  and  the  ceiling  richly  gilded.  In  the  centre 
of  this  once  stood  the  famous  peacock  throne,  which  has  re- 
cently been  removed,  and  we  were  unable  to  get  a sight  of  it. 
By  persevering,  however,  we  succeeded  in  seeing  the  crystal 
throne  of  the  Great  Mogul,  which  is  four  feet  in  diameter  by 
two  in  height,  and  the  largest  piece  of  rock  crystal  known  to 
exist.  The  bases  of  the  pillars  in  this  splendid  hall  were  painted 


158 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


with  roses  and  tulips,  the  colors  of  which  were  very  well  pro 
served.  The  mosque — an  imitation  of  that  in  the  palace  at 
A-gra — did  not  appear  to  have  heard  a prayer  for  years. 

Akbar  II.  has  reigned  in  this  little  dominion  since  1805, 
and  is  now  upward  of  eighty  years  of  age.  He  was  the  last 
of  the  line,  hut  having  four  sons,  the  succession  will  be  contin- 
ued. He  devotes  his  time  to  literature,  amusements  and  sen- 
suality. The  Mussulmen  speak  highly  of  his  literary  acquire- 
ments, and  his  poems  in  the  Persian  language  are  said  by  those 
who  have  read  them  to  possess  considerable  merit.  There  is  a 
Court  newspaper,  entitled  The  Lamp  of  News,  published 
within  the  palace,  but  its  columns  are  entirely  devoted  to  the 
gossip  of  the  city,  and  private  scandal.  Until  recently  the  law 
administered  within  the  palace  bore  a resemblance  to  the 
bloody  rule  of  former  days.  Persons  who  had  incurred  the 
royal  displeasure  had  their  hands,  ears  or  noses  cut  off,  and 
were  then  thrust  out  of  the  gates.  Finally  the  English  Kesi- 
dent  at  the  Court  hinted  to  his  Majesty  that  these  things  were 
very  disagreeable  and  ought  to  cease.  “ What ! ” said  the  de- 
scendant of  Tamerlane ; “ am  I not  King  in  my  own  palace  ? ” 
“Undoubtedly,”  blandly  replied  the  Resident;  “your  High- 
ness is  the  Conqueror  of  the  World  and  the  Protector  of 
Princes;  but  such  a course  is  not  pleasing  to  the  Governor- 
General,  and  it  would  be  a great  evil  to  the  world  if  the  friend- 
ship of  two  such  mighty  and  illustrious  Sovereigns  were  to  be 
interrupted ! ” The  forms  of  respect  to  the  phantom  of  the 
old  authority  being  thus  preserved,  the  Emperor  instituted  a 
milder  regimen. 

We  finished  our  visit  by  a walk  in  the  gardens.  Here,  the 
old  trees,  rankly  overrun  with  parasitic  plants,  with  an  under- 


vroiCES  OF  THE  SULTANAS. 


159 


growth  of  wild  and  unpruned  rose.-hushes,  afforded  a pleasant 
relief  to  the  decay  of  the  imperial  halls.  But  the  garden-pa- 
vilions were  tumbling  down,  the  pools  and  fountain-basins 
were  covered  with  a thick  green  scum,  and  rank  weeds  grew  in 
all  the  walks.  We  lingered  for  some  time  under  the  windows 
of  the  Zenana^  listening  to  the  clatter  of  female  voices,  and 
trying  to  draw  therefrom  some  inference  as  to  the  features  of 
the  Sultanas.  Alas ! the  tones  were  all  too  shrill  to  have  come 
from  beautiful  lips.  On  our  way  out,  several  sentinels  belong- 
ing to  the  Emperor’s  boy-corps  stood  at  the  interior  gates  and 
made  very  respectful  salaams  as  we  passed.  The  poor  little 
half-starved,  half-clothed  wretches  are  obliged  to  exercise  daily, 
and  often  four  hours  at  a time.  Most  of  the  male  inmates  of 
the  place  were  perched  upon  the  roofs,  engaged  in  flying  flocks 
of  pigeons,  which  they  made  to  advance  or  recede,  separate 
and  unite  again,  by  uttering  a peculiar  cry  and  waving  a long 
rod  with  a little  flag  on  the  end  of  it.  At  the  gate  we  dis- 
missed the  chobdars  with  a gratuity,  and  I went  home. 

“ The  spider  hath  woven  his  wel  m the  imperial  palaces.” 


CHAPTER  XII 

JOURNEY  IN  A PALANQUIN. 

Departure  for  the  Himalayas — “ Laying  a Dawk  ” — Last  View  of  Delhi — A Rainy 
Night — Quarters  at  Meerut — The  Dawk  Agent — Hindoo  Punctuality — Meerut — 
Palanquin  Travelling — Tricks  of  the  Bearers — Arrival  at  Eoorkhee — Adventures  in 
Search  of  a Breakfast— First  View  of  the  Himalayas — A Welcome  Invitation — Roor- 
khec — The  Ganges  Canal — Its  Cost  and  Dimensions — Method  of  Irrigation — The 
Government  and  the  People — Aqueduct  over  the  Selanee  River — Apathy  of  the 
Natives. 

At  the  close  of  my  stay  in  Delhi,  I found  that  precisely 
half  the  time  which  I had  allotted  for  my  transit  through  In 
dia  had  expired,  and  hut  a single  month  remained.  However, 
although  nearly  a thousand  miles  from  Calcutta,  I determined 
to  push  on  to  the  Himalayas,  and  get  a glimpse  of  the  highest 
mountain  in  the  world.  Once  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Road,  on 
my  return,  I could  depend  on  making  a hundred  miles  a day  by 
the  garree-dawh^  without  excessive  fatigue,  and  there  were 
few  points  of  interest,  except  Allahabad  and  Benares,  to  detain 
me  on  the  way  to  Calcutta.  I therefore  made  arrangements 
— “ laid  a dawk  ” is  the  Indian  expression — for  a trip  to  Lan- 
dowr,  the  highest  point  in  the  Himalayas,  which  can  be  conve* 


LAST  VIEW  OF  DELHI 


161 


niently  readied  during  the  winter  season,  by  way  of  Roorkhee 
and  Hurdwar.  The  distance  of  Landowr  from  Delhi  is  nearly 
two  hundred  miles,  and  there  is  no  carriage  dawk  beyond 
Meerut,  fifty  miles  from  the  latter  city.  I was  therefore 
obliged  to  travel  by  palkee  dawk^  or  palanquin.  A statement 
was  drawn  up  of  the  different  places  I intended  to  visit,  with 
the  length  of  my  stay  at  each,  and  a messenger  dispatched  to 
summon  the  bearers  to  be  in  readiness  at  the  proper  time,  at 
the  different  stations  along  the  road.  Twelve  days  were  al- 
lowed for  the  trip  to  Landowr  and  back  to  Meerut.  The  ex- 
penses of  the  dawk,  including  the  hire  of  the  palanquin, 
amounted  to  nearly  $60. 

The  garree,  or  carriage,  for  Meerut  called  for  me  on  Wed- 
nesday afternoon,  the  26th  of  January,  and  I took  leave  of  Mr, 
Place,  after  having  been  most  hospitably  entertained  by  him 
for  four  days.  The  weather  was  dark,  raw  and  lowering,  and 
I had  not  crossed  the  tedious  bridge  over  the  Jumna,  before 
the  rain  began  to  fall.  My  last  view  of  Delhi  .was  dull  and 
misty;  the  palace  of  Shah  Jehan  loomed  up  more  grandly 
than  ever,  but  the  domes  and  minarets  of  the  Jumma  Mus- 
jeed,  which  need  to  be  touched  with  sunshine,  on  a background 
of  blue  sky,  lost  half  their  airy  grace.  I had  a comfortable 
cart,  with  a mattress  on  the  bottom,  and  disposed  my  car- 
pet-bags in  such  a way  as  to  make  it  as  easy  as  an  arm-chair. 
The  rain  increased,  however,  the  roads  became  wet  and  slip- 
pery, and  the  plain  had  a dull  November  look,  which  was  very 
dreary.  I was  delayed  by  the  obstinacy  of  the  horses,  who, 
finding  the  cart  a little  heavier  than  usual,  did  their  best  to 
disable  it.  Night  soon  came  on,  the  rain  rattled  on  the  roof, 
and  drawing  my  quilt  around  me,  I lay  down  and  slept  until 


162 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


aroused  by  the  driver,  asking  where  he  should  take  me,  for  we 
had  reached  Meerut.  I directed  him  to  go  to  the  punch 
ghur'^''  (punch  house),  as  a hotel  is  termed,  in  this  part  of 
India.  There  I found  consummars^  chokedars,  and  the  other 
varieties  of  servants  usually  attached  to  a bungalow,  but  no 
one  who  spoke  English.  I did  my  best  to  get  a note  conveyed 
to  the  person  who  was  to  furnish  me  with  a palanquin  and 
bearers  the  next  morning,  but  found  the  thing  quite  impossible. 

I arose  betimes,  and  set  out  to  find  the  agent,  for  seven 
o’clock  was  the  time  appointed  for  starting.  After  endless 
questions  and  a walk  of  three  miles,  I was  finally  directed  to  a 
mean  house,  in  the  door  of  which  stood  one  of  the  meanest 
individuals  in  appearance,  that  I ever  beheld.  He  was  a half- 
caste,  of  a dirty  complexion,  unwashed,  pitted  with  the  small- 
pox, limping,  and  dressed  in  a vile  cloak  covered  with  grease 
and  patches.  He  informed  me  that  the  bearers  were  ready, 
and  pointed  to  the  palanquin,  which  was  standing  in  the  veran- 
dah.. The  man’s  appearance  made  me  suspicious,  and  though 
there  was  really  a palanquin,  I feared  that  before  travelling  far 
I should  find  it  to  be  a little  buggy.  He  promised  to  send  it 
to  the  hotel,  whither  I hastened,  expecting  to  find  breakfast 
ready,  as  I had  ordered.  Vain  hope!  There  is  no  equiva- 
lent for  “punctuality”  in  the  Hindostanee  tongue.  I waited 
an  hour;  the  palanquin  arrived;  I stormed  in  English,  for, 
unfortunately,  I knew  no  anathemas  in  their  language,  but  the 
cooks  were  miracles  of  calmness  and  deliberation.  When 
breakfast  finally  came,  I was  obliged  to  eat  a few  mouthfuls 
hurriedly  and  depart,  lest  I should  give  the  bearers  along  the 
road  a chance  to  claim  demurrage. 

Meerut  resembles  the  other  Indian  cantonments  in  most 


PALANQUIN  TRAVELLING. 


163. 


respects.  It  has  a number  of  handsome  bungalows,  besides  a 
church  with  a very  ambitious  spire.  Owing  to  an  abundance 
of  good  water,  its  gardens  and  orchards  are  much  more  luxu- 
riant than  those  of  Agra  and  Delhi.  It  must  be  both  an  agree- 
abe  and  healthy  place  of  residence.  The  sky  was  clear,  after 
the  rain  of  the  previous  day,  and  the  air  delightfully  cool  and 
bracing,  though  colder  than  I desired.  I rode  with  the  palan- 
quin windows  open,  and  found  that  by  propping  myself  against 
a carpet-bag,  I could  get  a tolerable  view  of  the  country  on 
both  sides.  There  was  little  variety  in  the  scenery,  as  I was 
still  on  the  great  Plain  of  Hindostan.  I noticed,  however, 
some  change  in  the  vegetation ; the  tamarind  and  taree-palm 
were  but  rarely  to  be  seen ; the  peepul  and  saul  were  the  prin- 
cipal trees.  The  wheat  was  much  more  backward  than  in  the 
warmer  plains  about  Agra. 

I had  eight  bearers,  four  of  whom  only  carried  the  palan- 
quin at  one  time.  They  relieved  each  other  every  half-mile, 
and  all  of  them  gave  place  to  a new  set,  at  the  end  of  the  stage, 
which  varied  from  eight  to  ten  miles.  There  was,  besides,  a 
mussalchee,  or  torch-bearer,  who,  during  the  day,  carries  the 
superfluous  garments  of  the  bearers,  and  demands  backsheesh 
when  they  are  changed.  The  amount  given  is  four  annas  (12^ 
cents),  to  each  set  of  bearers.  They  usually  average  about 
four  miles  an  hour  on  good  roads,  carrying  the  palanquin  along 
on  a slow,  sliding  trot,  every  step  of  which  they  accompany 
with  a grunt.  I do  not  know  a more  disagreeable  method  of 
travelling.  It  is  as  necessary  to  preserve  a nice  equilibrium  as 
in  a Turkish  caique,  and  as  you  lie  at  full  length  in  a narrow 
box,  you  cannot  turn  your  cramped  limbs  without  thrusting 
^our  body  too  far  on  one  side  or  the  other.  The  jolting 


164 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAFAN. 


motion  of  the  palanquin  is  unpleasant,  and  the  measured  grunts 
of  the  bearers  give  you  the  idea  that  they  are  about  to  drop 
you,  through  fatigue,  while  nothing  can  be  more  annoying  than 
their  constant  stoppage  to  shift  the  pole  from  one  shoulder  to 
another.  Sometimes  they  groan  out,  juldee  jdoP''  (go 
quickly !)  and  when  they  meet  any  body  in  the  road,  they  cry : 
“ Take  care  ! we  have  a great  Lord  inside ! ” 

Thus  I jogged  on  all  day,  through  a tame  and  monotonous 
country.  I looked  continually  to  the  north,  for  a glimpse  of 
the  Himalayas,  and  once  thought  I saw  some  sharp  white  peaks, 
but  they  gradually  moved  together  and  changed  their  forms. 
Toward  evening  my  bearers  stopped  at  a village,  which  they 
said  was  the  end  of  their  chokee  (stage),  but  that  the  new 
bearers,  who  ought  to  have  been  in  waiting,  had  gone  on  to 
another  village,  about  a mile  distant.  To  avoid  the  delay  of 
waiting  their  return,  they  offered  to  take  me  on  to  the  village 
for  an  additional  backsheesh ; and  I consented.  When  I arri- 
ved, however,  and  found  the  new  bearers  in  readiness,  I asked 
them : “ Is  this  the  beginning  of  your  chokee^  or  the  village 
behind  us  ? ” “ This  is  the  place,”  they  all  exclaimed ; where- 

upon the  others  were  quite  abashed  at  finding  their  trickery 
exposed,  and  their  expected  backsheesh  lost.  At  sunset  1 
passed  through  Mozuffernuggur,  a large  town  about  thirty-six 
miles  from  Meerut.  At  the  next  chokee  beyond  it,  I was 
delayed  an  hour  and  a half  by  the  non-appearance  of  the  bear- 
ers. My  men  began  to  shout,  and  the  cries  were  taken  up  by 
one  person  and  another,  till  they  seemed  to  radiate  through 
the  whole  country,  and  fill  the  air,  far  and  near.  The  men 
were  at  last  gathered  together,  and  we  went  on  by  torch-light 
The  night  was  clear  and  cold,  and  I lay  muffled  up,  cramped 


ADVENTURES  IN  SEARCH  OF  A BREAKFAST. 


165 


and  shivering,  until  we  arrived  at  the  station  of  Roorkhee, 
three  hours  past  midnight. 

There  was  a Government  bungalow,  to  which  the  hearers 
conveyed  me,  awoke  the  sleepy  chokedar,  kindled  a cocoa-nut 
lamp,  and  left  me.  I removed  every  thing  from  the  palanquin 
to  the  room,  fastened  the  doors,  and  then  lay  down  upon  the 
charpoy  (bedstead),  where  I slept  until  morning.  On  awaking, 
my  first  sensation  was  that  of  hunger,  for  I had  fasted  twenty- 
four  hours,  so  I summoned  the  chokedar,  and  ordered  him  to 
get  breakfast  for  me.  “ Bohui  acJiclia^^  (very  well,)  said  he, 
and  then  went  on  to  make  some  statement,  the  most  prominent 
words  of  which  were  “ ghurreeh  purwar^  I asked  him  for 
tea,  for  eggs,  for  fowls,  but  though  he  always  replied  “ very 
well,”  there  was  sure  to  follow  something  about  “ ghurreeb 
purwar.”  At  last  I decided  that  these  words  referred  to  some 
•necessary  article,  without  which  he  could  not  provide  break- 
fast. I thought  of  the  Arabic  words  gurra^  a gourd,  and 
georhehy  a water-skin,  and  it  was  quite  plain  that  “ ghurreeb 
purwar”  must  mean  either  a tea-kettle  or  a frying  pan. 
“ Well,”  said  I,  when  he  had  repeated  the  words  for  the  twen- 
tieth time,  “ I have  no  ghurreeb  purwar ; you  must  get  one. 
Go  and  borrow  one  from  the  Sahibs  ! ” The  man  stared  at  me 
in  a wild  way,  and  went  off,  but  not  to  provide  breakfast.  I 
learned  afterwards  that  “ ghurreeb  purwar  ” was  a title  ad- 
dressed to  myself,  and  means  “ Protector  of  the  Poor.”  It  is 
addressed  to  all  Europeans  in  these  parts,  and  no  exclusive 
honor  is  meant  thereby,  as  Bishop  Heber  supposed,  when  he 
wrote  in  his  Journal,  that  the  people,  on  account  of  his  kindness 
to  them,  had  bestowed  upon  him  the  title  of  “ Protector  of 
the  Poor.” 


166 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


While  anxiously  waiting  for  breakfast,  I amused  myself 
by  reading  a list  of  the  books  in  the  Library  of  the  Qanges 
Canal  at  Roorkhee,  which  hung  upon  the  wall.  Who  would 
have  guessed  that  an  humble  author,  in  scrambling  about  the 
world,  should  find  one  of  his  works  in  the  furthest  corner  of 
India,  at  the  very  foot  of  the  Himalayas  ? Yet  so  it  was ; and 
the  fact  made  the  place  less  inhospitable,  in  spite  of  my 
hunger.  Where  my  words  have  already  been,  I thought,  shall 
not  my  body  find  nourishment  ? and  while  trying  to  reason 
myself  into  the  impression  that  there  was  a breakfast  some- 
where in  Roorkhee,  which  it  was  destined  that  I should  eat,  I 
walked  out  upon  the  verandah. 

It  was  about  eight  in  the  morning:  an  atmosphere  of 
crystal,  and  not  a cloud  in  the  sky.  Yet  something  white  and 
shining  glimmered  through  the  loose  foliage  of  some  trees  on 
my  right  hand.  My  heart  came  into  my  mouth  with  the  sud 
den  bound  it  gave,  when,  after  plunging  through  the  trees  like 
one  mad,  tumbling  into  a ditch  on  the  other  side,  and  scramb- 
ling up  a great  pile  of  dirt,  I saw  the  Himalayas  before  me ! 
Unobscured  by  a single  cloud  or  a speck  of  vapor,  there 
stood  revealed  the  whole  mountain  region,  from  the  low  range 
of  the  Siwalik  Hills,  about  twenty  miles  distant,  to  the  lofti- 
est pinnacles  of  eternal  snow,  which  look  down  on  China  and 
Thibet.  The  highest  range,  though  much  more  than  a hundred 
miles  distant,  as  the  crow  flies,  rose  as  far  into  the  sky  as  the 
Alps  at  forty  miles,  and  with  every  glacier  and  chasm  and 
spire  of  untrodden  snow  as  clearly  defined.  Their  true  mag- 
nitude, therefore,  was  not  fully  apparent,  because  the  eye 
refused  to  credit  the  intervening  distance.  But  the  exquisite 
loveliness  of  the  shadows  painted  by  the  morning  on  those 


FIRST  VIEW  OF  THE  HIMALAYAS. 


167 


enormous  wastes  of  snow,  and  the  hold  yet  beautiful  outlines 
of  the  topmost  cones,  soaring  to  a region  of  perpetual  silence 
and  death,  far  surpassed  any  distant  view  of  the  Alps  or  any 
other  mountain  chain  I ever  saw.  As  seen  from  Roorkhee, 
the  Himalayas  present  the  appearance  of  three  distinct  ranges. 
The  first,  the  Siwalik  Hills,  are  not  more  than  two  thousand 
feet  in  height ; the  second,  or  Suh-Himalayas,  rise  to  eight  or 
nine  thousand,  while  the  loftiest  peaks  of  the  snowy  range, 
visible  from  this  point,  are  25,000  feet  above  the  sea.  Far  in 
the  north-west  was  the  Chore,  an  isolated  peak,  which  is  almost 
precisely  the  height  of  Mont  Blanc,  hut  seemed  a very  pigmy 
in  comparison  with  the  white  cones  beyond  it. 

I had  a lette-r  to  Col.  Cautley,  the  Superintendent  of  the 
Ganges  Canal,  and  hastened  to  deliver  it  in  time  to  share  his 
breakfast.  He  was  not  in  Boorkhee,  as  it  happened ; but  I 
learned  from  tne  servant  that  there  was  a “ sahib  ” living  in 
the  house,  and  sent  the  letter  in  to  him.  The  “ sahib  ” did 
just  what  I had  hoped,  that  is,  he  came  out  and  asked  me  in  to 
breakfast  with  him — which  I was  but  too  ready  to  do.  The 
letter  was  forwarded  to  Capt.  Goodwyn,  the  next  in  command, 
and  before  the  meal  was  concluded  I received  a kind  note  from 
that  officer,  offering  me  a room  in  his  house. 

Boorkhee  has  suddenly  risen  into  note  from  being  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Engineers  employed  on  the  Ganges  Canal.  *A 
large  workshop  is  in  operation,  and  the  Government  has  just 
established  a College  for  educating  Civil  Engineers.  The 
Europeans  are  comparatively  few,  and  the  • native  town  is  in- 
habited almost  entirely  by  the  workmen  employed  on  the 
Canal.  It  is  a pleasant,  healthy  place,  scattered  over  a 
rising  ground,  overlooking  the  Valley  of  the  Ganges,  and  en- 


168 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


joys  one  of  the  finest  prospects  of  the  Himalayas  to  be  had 
from  any  part  of  the  plains.  A very  handsome  Gothic  Church 
(designed  by  Mr.  Price,  the  gentleman  to  whom  I was  in- 
debted for  a breakfast)  had  been  recently  erected,  and  this, 
with  the  open,  turfy  common  in  front  of  the  town,  and  the 
absence  of  tropical  trees,  reminded  me  strongly  of  England. 

The  Ganges  Canal  is  one  of  the  grandest  undertakings 
of  the  present  day.  It  has  been  constructed  under  the  direc- 
tion and  at  the  expense  of  the  Government,  mainly  for  the 
purpose  of  irrigating  the  level,  fertile  tracts  between  the 
Ganges  and  Jumna,  but  also  to  afford  the  means  of  transport- 
ing the  productions  of  the  country  to  the  head  of  navigation 
on  the  former  river,  at  Cawnpore.  The  labor  of  more  than 
ten  years  had  been  expended  on  it  at  the  time  of  my  visit,  and 
four  or  five  years  more  were  considered  necessary  to  complete 
it.*  It  will  be  eighty  feet  wide,  varying  in  depth  according 
to  the  season,  but  probably  averaging  eight  feet,  and,  including 
its  numerous  branches,  will  have  an  extent  of  eight  hundred 
miles  ! It  taps  the  Ganges  at  Hurdwar  (eighteen  miles  to  the 
north-west  of  Roorkh),  and  returns  to  it  again  at  Cawnpor,  a 
distance  of  more  than  four  hundred  miles.  The  total  cost,  when 
completed,  will  not  fall  much  short  of  £2,000,000,  but  it  is 
expected  to  yield  a return  of  £500,000  annually.  This  cal- 
culation is  based  on  the  success  of  the  East  and  West  Jumna 
Canals,  which  are  comparatively  on  a small  scale.  The  former 
of  those  was  finished  in  1825,  since  when  it  has  paid  all  the 
expense  of  construction,  together  with  an  annual  interest  of  5 

* The  water  was  let  into  the  main  trunk  of  the  Ganges  Canal  in 
the  summer  of  1854,  and  the  work,  so  far  as  it  has  gone  into  operation, 
is  perfectly  successfuL 


SYSTEM  OF  IRRIGATION. 


m 


per  cent,  thereupon,  and  £320,000  clear  profit.  The  latter, 
finished  a few’ years  since,  has  paid  the  cost  and  interest,  with 
£30,000  profit. 

The  use  of  the  water  for  irrigation  is  not  obligatory  upon 
the  inhabitants,  but  they  are  generally  quite  willing  to  avail 
themselves  of  it.  There  are  three  ways  in  which  it  is  fur- 
nished to  them ; First,  by  villages  or  companies  of  cultivators 
contracting  for  as  much  as  they  want;  secondly,  by  a fixed  rate 
per  acre,  according  to  the  kind  of  grain,  rice  being  the  most 
expensive  and  cotton  the  cheapest;  and  thirdly,  by  renting 
an  outlet  of  a certain  fixed  dimension,  at  so  much  per  year 
Along  the  Jumna  Canals  the  people  do  not  wait,  as  formerly,  to 
see  whether  the  crops  will  be  likely  to  succeed  without  irri- 
gation, but  employ  it  in  all  seasons,  and  are  thereby  assured 
of  a constant  return  for  their  labor.  The  Ganges  Canal  will 
be  of  vast  importance  in  increasing  the  amount  of  grain  pro- 
duced in  Hindostan,  the  design  of  the  Government  being  to 
render  famine  impossible.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  such  a 
dreadful  spectacle  as  the  famine  of  1838,  when  hundreds  of 
thousands  perished  from  want,  will  never  again  be  witnessed 
in  India.  That  such  things  have  happened  is  the  natural  re- 
sult of  the  tenure  by  which  land  is  held  and  cultivated.  The 
Government  is  the  proprietor,  and  the  zemindars^  or  tenants, 
pay  75  per  cent,  of  the  assessed  value  of  the  products.  The 
land  is  sub-let  by  the  zemindars  to  the  ryots^  or  laborers,  and 
these,  the  poor  and  ignorant  millions  of  India,  of  course  gain 
little  or  nothing  beyond  a bare  subsistence.  If  the  crops  fail, 
they  have  nothing  at  all.  The  Ganges  Canal  will  therefore,  to 
a certain  extent,  prevent  famine,  by  assuring  perennial  crops. 
It  will  enrich  the  Government,  because,  in  addition  to  the  sale 
8 


170 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


of  the  water,  it  will  increase  the  rent  of  the  lands  as  the^^ 
become  more  productive,  but  it  will  very  slightly  mitigate  the 
condition  of  the  ryots. 

The  greatest  modern  work  in  India  is  the  Canal  Aqueduct 
over  the  Selanee  River,  at  Roorkhee.  It  is  entirely  constructed 
of  brick,  and,  including  the  abutments,  is  about  a quarter  of  a 
mile  in  length,  by  a hundred  and  eighty  feet  in  breadth. 
There  are  sixteen  arches,  of  about  seventy  feet  span,  and 
rising  twenty  feet  above  the  river,  the  foundations  of  the 
piers  being  sunk  twenty  feet  below  the  bed.  The  arches  are 
four  feet  thick,  in  order  to  support  the  immense  pressure  of 
such  a body  of  water.  Hundreds  of  workmen  were  employed 
on  the  structure,  and  a small  railroad  had  been  laid  down  for 
bringing  the  materials.  A locomotive  was  imported  from 
England,  but,  through  the  neglect  of  the  native  firemen,  soon 
became  a wreck.  During  the  short  time  it  was  in  operation  a 
great  number  of  accidents  occurred.  It  was  found  almost 
impossible  to  keep  the  natives  off  the  track.  Their  stupidity 
in  this  respect  is  astonishing.  If  you  have  a hard  heart  you 
may  run  over  as  many  as  you  like  in  a morning’s  ride,  for  they 
will  assuredly  not  get  out  of  your  way  unless  you  fjrce  them 
to  it 


CHAPTEK  XIII. 

HURDWAR  AND  THE  GANGES. 

Katlve  Workmen  at  Koorkhee — Their  Wages — Departure  for  Hurdwar — Afternoon 
View  of  the  Himalayas — Peaks  visible  from  Eoorkhee — Jungle-grass — Jowalapore 
—Approach  to  the  Siwalik  Hills— First  View  of  the  Ganges — Ganges  Canal — Pre- 
diction of  the  Brahmins— An  Arrival — ^The  Holy  City  of  Hurdwar — Its  Annual 
Fair — Appearance  of  the  Streets — The  Bazaar — A Himalayan  Landscape — Travel  in  ■ 
the  Jungle — A Conflagration — The  Jungle  by  Torch-Light — Arrival  at  Dehra. 

Before  leaving  Eoorkhee  I paid  a visit  to  the  workshops, 
where  I was  much  struck  with  the  skill  and  aptness  of  the 
natives  employed.  The  shops  are  instituted  for  the  purpose 
of  constructing  the  implements  used  on  the  Canal  works 
The  machinery  is  driven  by  steam  and  conducted  entirely  by 
natives  under  European  superintendence.  One  of  the  depart- 
ments is  devoted  to  the  construction  of  mathematical  instru- 
ments, which  are  fully  equal  to  those  of  English  manufacture. 

“ The  natives,”  to  use  the  words  of  the  Superintendent. 

“ learn  in  one  sixth  of  the  time  which  an  English  workman 
would  require.”  Their  imitative  talent  is  wonderful,  but  they 
totally  lack  invention.  This  makes  them  a people  easily  im- 
proved, as  they  are  anxious  to  learn,  but  never  knowing  more 
than  is  taught  them,  never  using  their  knowledge  as  a lamp  to 
explore  the  unknown  fields  of  science  or  art.  These  workmen 


172 


IKDIA  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


are  paid  from  four  to  eight  rupees  a month,  according  to  their 
skill,  but  the  ordinary  laborers  on  the  Canal,  though  hired  at 
four  (S2),  do  not,  owing  to  their  indolence,  generally  receive 
more  than  two  rupees  per  month,  out  of  which  they  find  them- 
selves. It  is  said  that  one  rupee  (fifty  cents,)  monthly,  covers 
all  their  necessary  expenses. 

After  two  days  at  Roorkhee,  I summoned  the  bearers  to 
be  in  readiness  at  sunrise,  the  next  morning.  Capt.  Goodwyn 
was  kind  enough  to  see  that  all  the  arrangements  were  com- 
plete, besides  ordering  me  an  early  breakfast,  and  his  amiable 
lady  provided  me  with  a tiffin,  which  I was  to  eat  in  Col. 
Cautley’s  bungalow  at  Hurdwar.  The  morning  was  bright  and 
cold,  and  as  I was  borne  down  the  bank  to  the  Selanee  River, 
I noticed  that  a light  rime  lay  upon  the  grass.  The  bearers 
shivered  as  they  waded  through  the  chill  water,  though  their 
bare  legs  were  nearly  as  tough  and  leathery  as  an  elephant’s. 
I opened  the  palanquin  so  that  I might  look  on  the  Hima- 
layas, as  I lay,  but  their  cold  morning  gleam  was  not  so  beau- 
tiful as  the  warm  red  flush  which  had  lain  on  them  during 
the  previous  afternoon  and  evening.  I had  accompanied  my 
hosts  to  the  cricket-ground,  where  there  was  a match  between 
the  military  and  the  civilians.  The  game  was  explained  to 
me,  and  politeness  required  that  I should  take  an  interest  in 
its  progress ; but  my  whole  soul  had  gone  off  to  the  Himalayas, 
and  I could  see  or  think  of  nothing  else.  I was  most  struck 
with  their  exquisite  beauty  of  form  and  coloring.  The  faint- 
est pink  of  the  sea-shell  slept  upon  the  steeps  of  snow,  and 
their  tremendous  gulfs  and  chasms  were  filled  with  pale-blue 
shadows,  so  delicately  pencilled  that  I can  only  compare  them 
to  the  finest  painting  on  ivory.  When  I reflected  that  each  of 


THE  HIMALAYAS,  FROM  ROORKHEE. 


173 


those  gentle  touches  of  blue  was  a tremendous  gorge,  “ where 
darkness  dwells  all  day ; ” that  each  break  in  the  harmonious 
flow  of  the  outline  on  the  sky — like  the  break  in  a cadence  of 
music,  making  it  sweeter  for  the  pause — was  a frightful  pre- 
cipice, thousands  of  feet  in  depth  and  inaccessible  to  human 
foot,  I was  overpowered  by  the  awful  sublimity  of  the  picture 
But  when  their  color  grew  rosy  and  lambent  in  the  sunset,  I 
could  think  of  nothing  but  the  divine  beauty  which  beamed 
through  them,  and  wonder  whether  they  resembled  the  moun- 
tains which  we  shall  see  in  the  glorified  landscapes  of  the 
future  world. 

The  snowy  chain  visible  from  Boorkhee  extends  from 
Nepaul  to  the  borders  of  Cashmere,  and  includes  some  of 
the  highest  peaks,  though  not  the  very  highest,  in  the  Hima- 
layas. In  front  rise  the  Gungootree  and  Jumnootree,  the 
sources  of  the  Jumna  and  Ganges,  about  25,000  feet  high ; 
further  to  the  eastward,  Buddhreenath,  a little  lower ; and  in 
the  distant  north-east,  the  summit  of  Nundidevi,  which  has  an 
altitude  of  nearly  26,000.  Bwalagheri,  Chumalari,  and  a 
third  peak  which,  according  to  recent  measurements,  is  fully 
30,000  feet  above  the  sea,  are  further  to  the  eastward.  There 
is  generally  much  cloud  and  mist  upon  them  during  the  winter 
season,  and  at  Boorkhee  they  told  me  there  had  not  been  so 
fine  a view  of  them  for  two  months,  as  on  the  morning  of  my 
arrival 

After  crossing  the  Selanee  Biver,  I was  carried  on  through 
a low  tract,  at  first  covered  only  with  long  jungle  grass,  ten 
feet  high,  but  afterward  studded  with  picturesque  topes,  or 
groves,  of  mango  and  peepul  trees.  Being  sheltered  by  the 
Siwalik  Hills,  and  inundated  by  the  overflow  of  the  Ganges, 


174 


INDIA^  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


the  vegetation  was  very  luxuriant,  and  had  more  of  a tropical 
character  than  upon  the  plains.  In  the  dense  jungles  along 
the  Ganges,  about  fifteen  miles  from  Roorkhee,  there  is  an 
abundance  of  tigers,  leopards  and  wild  elephants.  The  deer, 
antelope  and  wild  boar  are  also  frequent.  On  my  way  to 
Hurd  war  I passed  through  Jowalapore,  a queer  old  town  which 
appeared  to  have  some  share  in  the  sanctity  of  the  neighboring 
city.  I sat  up  in  the  palanquin  to  have  a better  view  of  the  place 
and  people,  as  I was  borne  through  its  tortuous  streets.  There 
were  a number  of  temples  and  caravanserais,  and  the  roofs  of 
the  houses  were  tenanted  by  sacred  apes,  whose  posteriors  were 
painted  of  a bright  crimson  color.  The  inhabitants  looked 
at  me  with  curiosity,  and  some  of  them  made  very  respectful 
salaams.  There  was  a bazaar  and  market  in  full  operation, 
which  were  almost  an  exact  counterpart  of  those  of  the 
smaller  Egyptian  towns.  Among  the  crowd  I noticed  two 
handsome,  fair-skinned  Cashmerians. 

The  road  now  approached  the  Siwalik  Hills,  which  were 
steep  and  covered  with  jungle  to  the  summit.  The  gorge 
through  which  the  Ganges  forces  its  way  at  Hurdwar  made 
an  abrupt  gap  in  their  chain,  revealing  a striking  view  of  the 
second  or  Sub-Himalayas,  which  now  completely  hid  the 
snowy  peaks.  It  was  nearly  noon  by  this  time,  and  the  day 
was  warm  and  summer-like.  The  bearers  threaded  the  shade 
of  the  mango  topes,  crossed  the  canal,  passed,  without  enter- 
ing, the  town  of  Khunkhul,  and  finally  set  me  down  at  CoL 
Cautley’s  bungalow,  at  Myapore.  This  is  a little  village 
about  half  a mile  from  Hurdwar,  at  the  point  where  the 
canal  leaves  the  Ganges.  The  bungalow — a thatched  cottage, 
pleasantly  embowered  in  trees — was  comfortably  furnished, 


FIRST  VIEW  OF  THE  GANGES. 


175 


thougli  untenanted.  I took  possession  for  tlie  time;  the 
servant  set  about  making  tea  for  me,  and  sent  word  for  the 
new  bearers  to  be  ready  in  two  hours. 

Meanwhile  I strolled  out  to  see  the  head  of  the  canal.  In 
ten  minutes  I stood  on  the  lofty  banks  of  the  Ganges,  looking 
down  on  his  clear  blue  stream.  The  gorge  lay  open  before 
me;  the  hills  rose  on  either  hand  covered  with  a wilderness 
of  jungle;  the  white  pinnacles  of  the  temples  of  Hurd  war 
shone  over  the  top  of  a belt  of  trees ; the  sacred  ghauts  led 
down  to  the  water ; but  beyond  all,  crowning  the  huge  blue 
bulk  of  the  Sub-Himalayas,  towered  the  snowy  cone  of  Gun- 
gootree.  It  was  an  impressive  scene.  Here  was  the  river 
beneath  my  feet ; there  one  of  his  most  sacred  cities ; and  in 
the  remote  distance  the  snows  wherein  he  is  cradled.  I went 
down  the  bank,  and  there,  at  the  last  gate  of  the  Himalayas, 
where  they  let  him  out  upon  the  plain  of  Hindostan,  drank 
of  the  Holy  River. 

The  dam  across  the  Ganges  at  the  head  of  the  Canal  was 
of  course  postponed  until  the  remainder  of  the  work  should 
be  finished,  but  the  abutments  and  a regulating  bridge  of  red 
sandstone  were  already  completed.  The  canal  was  expected 
to  take  away  nine  tenths  of  the  river  at  this  place — a pros- 
pect which  spread  terror  among  the  Brahmins.  They  de- 
clared that  the  goddess  Gangajee  had  announced  to  them  in 
Q.  vision,  that  she  would  never  lie  quietly  in  any  other  than 
her  accustomed  bed.  If  the  English  turned  her  out  of  it, 
she  might  be  forced  to  go  a few  miles,  but  she  would  assur- 
edly break  loose  and  return.  The  Brahmins,  therefore,  pre- 
dicted the  total  failure  of  the  Canal.  The  removal  of  so 
much  water  will*  be  a disadvantage  to  those  who  inhabit  the 


176 


TJTDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


banks,  but  Col.  Cautley  supposes  that  the  loss  will  he  sup- 
plied by  springs  in  the  river-bed. 

While  I was  preparing  to  leave,  a garree  drove  up,  out 
of  which  descended  a ruddy,  powerful  man,  a lady  and  two 
fat  and  rosy  children.  The  gentleman,  who  had  charge  of 
the  operations  at  Mapyore,  immediately  addressed  me  in  the 
most  cordial  manner.  He  had  just  brought  his  family  down 
from  Landowr  in  the  Himalayas,  to  spend  a few  days,  and 
I learned  from  him  that  the  snows  were  fast  melting.  He 
had  been  five  years  in  America,  and  professed  himself  de- 
lighted to  meet  a citizen  of  that  country.  I would  willingly 
have  prolonged  my  stay,  but  the  bearers  were  waiting,  so  we 
shook  hands  and  I was  carried  on  to  Hurdwar. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  curious  cities  in  India.  It  lies  on 
the  western  bank  of  the  Granges,  exactly  in  the  gorge  formed 
by  the  Siwalik  Hills.  There  is  but  one  principal  street, 
running  parallel  to  the  water,  and  crossed  by  others  so  steep 
as  to  resemble  staircases.  Broad  stone  ghauts  descend  to 
the  river,  to  allow  the  pilgrims  facility  of  bathing.  Between 
them,  upon  platforms  of  masonry  of  various  heights,  are 
temples  to  the  Hindoo  gods,  principally  to  Ganeish  and 
Shiva.  The  emblem  of  the  latter  divinity,  the  lingam^  or 
jymbol  of  the  Phallic  worship,  is  seen  on  all  sides.  Its  sig- 
nification, however,  would  never  be  guessed  by  a stranger, 
nor  is  there  any  thing  indecent  in  the  ceremonies  with  which 
it  is  worshipped.  The  temples  are  from  twenty  to  fifty  feet 
high — none,  I think,  of  greater  altitude — and  generally  built 
of  gray  sandstone.  There  is  great  similarity  in  their  design, 
which  is  a massive  square  shrine,  surmounted  by  a four-sided 
or  circular  spire,  curving  gradually  to  a pHint,  so  that  the 


THE  HOLY  CITY  OF  IIURDWAR. 


177 


outline  of  each  side  resembles  a parabola.  All  parts  of  the 
building  are  covered  with  grotesque  but  elaborate  ornaments 
and  many  of  the  spires  are  composed  of  a mass  of  smaller 
ones,  overlapping  each  other  like  scales,  so  that  at  a distance 
they  resemble  slender  pine-apples,  of  colossal  size.  There 
are  fifty  or  sixty  temples  in  and  about  the  city,  some  of  them 
being  perched  on  the  summit  of  cliffs  rising  above  it.  Most 
of  them  are  whitewashed,  and  have  a new  and  glaring  ap- 
pearance ; but  there  are  others,  enclosed  in  large  courtyards, 
which  are  very  black  and  venerable,  and  seem  to  be  regarded 
with  more  than  usual  reverence.  I could  see  lamps  burning 
before  the  idols,  in  the  gloomy  interiors,  but  was  not  allowed 
to  enter.  There  is  a great  annual  mela^  or  fair,  held  at 
Hurdwar,  which  is  sometimes  attended  by  a million  and  a 
half  of  persons.  I believe  there  are  never  less  than  five  or 
six  hundred  thousand  present.  The  natives  flock  from  all 
parts  of  Hindostan  and  Bengal,  from  the  Deccan,  the  Punjab, 
from  Cashmere,  Affghanistan,  Tartary  and  Thibet,  some  as  re- 
ligious devotees,  some  as  worldly  tradesmen.  For  miles  around 
the  place  it  is  one  immense  encampment,  and  all  the  races, 
faces,  costumes,  customs  and  languages  of  the  East,  from  Persia 
to  Siam,  from  Ceylon  to  Siberia,  are  represented.  Buying  and 
selling,  praying  and  bathing,  commercial  fleecing  and  holy 
hair-cutting,  and  all  kinds  of  religious  and  secular  swindling, 
are  in  full  operation ; and  Hurdwar,  which  is  at  other  times 
a very  quiet,  lonely,  half-deserted,  out-of-the-way  nook,  is  then 
a metropolis,  rivalling  London  in  its  tumult.  Some  of  the 
missionaries  usually  attend  on  such  occasions,  in  the  hope  of 
snatching  brands  from  the  burning,  but  the  fires  are  generally 


8* 


178 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


SO  hot  that  they  do  little  more  than  scorch  their  fingers  for 
their  pains. 

As  I passed  slowly  through  the  streets,  I was  much  enter- 
tained by  the  picturesque  and  filthy  appearance  of  the  town. 
Its  holiness  was  apparent  at  a glance.  It  reminded  me  of 
one  of  those  naked  fakeers^  covered  with  dirt  and  ashes,  who 
by  gazing  steadfastly  upon  their  navels,  attain  the  beatitude 
of  saints.  The  streets  were  narrow,  very  dirty  and  enclosed 
by  high  black  houses.  Blacker  and  more  dirty  were  the 
temples.  On  the  low,  thatched  verandahs  in  front  of  the 
shops,  sat  groups  of  sacred  monkeys,  with  painted  posteriors, 
like  those  of  Jowalapore.  They  were  silent  and  contempla- 
tive, but  the  sacred  bulls,  who  blocked  up  the  streets  below 
them,  exhibited  a cool  impudence,  which  nothing  but  a human 
being  could  surpass.  The  inhabitants  were  all  engaged  in 
plaiting  bamboo  splits  into  baskets.  I could  not  imagine 
what  all  this  basket-making  was  intended  for,  until  I reflected 
chat  the  time  of  the  Fair  was  approaching,  and  that  the 
Brahmins  would  need  them  as  depositories  for  their  spoils. 
Another  part  of  the  Bazaar  was  entirely  filled  with  a display 
of  beads ; a still  larger  department  was  devoted  to  the  sale 
of  idols,  hundreds  of  whom  squatted  cross-legged  on  both 
sides,  staring  at  me  with  marvellously  good-humored  faces. 
Ganeish  looked  so  comical  with  his  elephant’s  ears  and  trunk 
that  I felt  tempted  to  give  the  latter  member  a tweak.  But 
in  the  remaining  portion  of  the  bazaar  was  stowed  nothing 
but  assafoetida,  which  is  brought  over  from  Thibet.  It  must 
have  been  of  good  quality,  for  the  fragrance  was  overpower- 
ing My  bearers  hurried  through,  crying  out,  as  they  had 


TRAVEL  IN  THE  JUNGLE. 


179 


done  since  entering  the  town : “ Make  way  for  the  Maha- 
rajah ! ” 

Passing  around  the  hill,  the  road  began  to  descend,  and 
a superb  view  of  the  Dehra  Dhoou — a large  valley  enclosed 
between  the  Siwalik  Hills  and  the  Sub-Himalayas — presented 
itself  to  my  view.  Before  me  lay  the  Ganges,  its  waters 
glittering  in  the  sun,  as  it  spread  them  out  in  the  valley,  after 
forcing  a pass  through  a deep,  dark  gap  in  the  mountains 
before  me.  These  mountains,  the  Sub-Himalayas,  stretched 
far  to  the  west,  point  lessening  and  fading  beyond  point,  till 
the  magnificent  perspective  of  the  Dhoon  was  closed  by  the 
distant  Chore,  the  twin  brother  of  Mont  Blanc.  Snow 
sparkled  on  all  the  summits,  though  the  main  range  was  quite 
out  of  view.  On  my  left  the  rich,  woody  undulations  of  the 
Siwalik  Hills  swept  into  the  distance,  and  the  great  valley 
below,  as  far  as  my  eye  could  reach,  appeared  to  be  a bound- 
less forest.  I was  now  fairly  within  the  Himalayas,  and  this 
view  gave  a splendid  promise  of  the  scenery  which  they 
infold. 

The  jungle  grew  more  dense  as  we  advanced,  and  the 
signs  of  habitation  less  and  less  frequent.  The  forests  were 
the  finest  I had  seen  in  India,  composed  principally  of  saul 
trees,  with  clusters  of  bamboo  in  the  hollows.  In  some  places 
they  were  so  laced  together  with  vines,  which  had  in  turn 
become  trees,  that  their  recesses  were  almost  impenetrable. 
Hundreds  of  bright-green  parrots  chattered  on  the  boughs, 
and  flowers  of  brilliant  colors  gleamed  in  the  foliage.  My 
bearers  trotted  rapidly  through  these  beautiful  solitudes,  for 
tigers  are  plentiful,  and  the  carcass  of  a cow,  covered  with 
vultures,  which  lay  near  the  road,  hinted  of  them.  There 


180 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


were  at  least  fifty  liuge  birds,  shrieking  and  fighting  for  the 
morsels  which  remained,  and  some  of  them,  who  were  already 
gorged,  could  with  great  difficulty  get  out  of  the  way  of  my 
men.  Toward  evening,  I was  startled  by  a roaring  sound, 
resembling  a high  wind  advancing  through  the  forest.  But 
soon  dense  volumes  of  white  smoke  became  visible,  and  oc- 
casionally streamers  of  flame  shot  above,  the  tree-tops.  A 
turn  in  the  road  discovered  an  open  tract  at  the  foot  of  the 
hills,  covered  with  tall  jungle-grass,  which  the  natives  had 
set  on  fire.  The  grass  was  very  thick,  and  from  eight  to  ten 
feet  high,  so  that  the  conflagration  was  on  a grand  scale. 
The  flames,  of  a brilliant  scarlet  color,  pressed  along  the 
slope  with  the  fury  of  a charging  battalion,  and  their  deep 
roar,  with  the  incessant  snapping  and  crackling  of  the  grass, 
made  a noise  truly  awful.  I was  strongly  reminded  of  my 
unlucky  attempt  at  burning  out  lions,  on  the  White  Nile,  a 
year  previous.  The  fire'  had  just  leaped  over  the  road,  and 
my  bearers  passed  in  safety. 

We  were  obliged  to  cross  several  spurs  of  the  Siwalik 
range.  The  same  forest  still  spread  its  thick  fold  over  them, 
and  the  turnings  of  the  road  as  it  rose  or  descended,  gave  it 
the  appearance  of  a labyrinth.  Sunset  came  on  as  we  were 
traversing  the  crest  of  a long  ridge,  whence  there  was  a fine 
view  over  the  leafy  wilderness  below  me,  and  while  I was 
borne  along  by  the  silent  bearers,  looking  down  on  the  dark- 
ening valley  or  watching  the  last  flush  fading  from  the 
Himalayan  snows,  I felt  that  there  might  be  times  when 
palanc[uin  travelling  was  agreeable.  I was  a little  startled, 
on  being  carried  into  a gloomy  glen,  to  see  a dozen  men 
burst  out  of  the  thickets,  but  it  appeared  that  they  were 


ARRIVAL  AT  DEHRA. 


181 


travelers,  who  had  taken  a nearer  path,  known  only  to 
themselves. 

When  it  grew  dark,  the  mussalchee  lit  his  torch  and 
walked  beside  the  palanquin,  waving  the  light  to  and  fro, 
that  the  bearers  might  see  where  to  put  their  feet.  The  red 
glow  illuminated,  with  splendid  effect,  the  masses  of  foliage 
on  either  hand,  and  I lay  watching  it  for  hour  after  hour, 
till  I fell  from  reverie  into  sleep.  I was  awakened  once 
when  the  bearers  were  changed,  and  a second  time,  when, 
two  hours  after  midnight  they  set  me  down  at  the  hotel  in 
Dehra. 


OnAPTER  XIV. 


THE  HIMALAYAS. 

Keoeptlon  bj  Mr.  Keene — We  start  for  the  Himalayas— The  Dehra-Dhoon— MorniDg 
View  of  the  Sub-Himalayas — Leopards — Eajpore — Wilson,  the  “Eanger  of  the 
Himalayas” — Climbing  the  Mountain — Change  of  Seasons — The  Summit  of  the 
Eidge — Village  of  Landowr — Snow-Drifts — The  Pole  and  the  Equator — Eev.  Mr. 
Woodside — Mast-Head  of  the  Sub-Himalayas — View  of  the  Snowy  Peaks — Grand 
Asiatic  Tradition — Peculiar  Structure  of  the  Himalayan  Eanges — Scenery  of  the 
Main  Chain — The  Paharrees — Polyandry — The  Peaks  at  Sunset — The  Plain  of 
Hindostan — A Cloudy  Deluge. 

On  visiting  Mr.  Keene,  the  Deputy  Magistrate  of  Dehra, 
the  morning  after  my  arrival,  I was  at  once  installed  as  an 
inmate  of  his  house  during  my  stay,  and  invited  to  accom- 
pany him  to  Mussooree  and  Landowr,  on  the  following  day. 
The  invitation  chimed  so  thoroughly  with  my  own  plans,  that 
I accepted  it,  together  with  his  hospitality.  Mr.  Keene  is 
one  of  the  few  persons  in  the  East  India  Company’s  Service, 
who  have  devoted  their  leisure  to  literary  pursuits.  He  is 
one  of  the  main  props  of  Saunders’  Magazine^  a very  cre- 
ditable monthly  periodical,  published  at  Delhi ; and  I do  not 
betray  a secret,  when  I state  that  he  is  also  the  author  of 
the  frequent  poems  signed  “ H.  G.  K.,”  which  appear  in 
Blackwood. 


THE  DEHRA  DHOON. 


183 


”We  rose  early  the  next  morning,  and  after  a cup  of  tea, 
set  off  in  Mr.  K.’s  buggy  for  Rajpore,  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains.  The  town  of  Dehra  is  situated  near  the  centre 
of  the  Dhoon,  or  Valley,  of  the  same  name,  which  is  a tract 
about  seventy  miles  in  length  by  fifteen  in  breadth,  between 
the  Siwalik  Hills  and  the  Sub-Himalayas,  and  extending 
from  the  Ganges  to  the  Jumna.  Protected  alike  from  the 
hot  winds  of  the  plains,  and  the  cold  blasts  of  the  hills,  it 
is  one  of  the  most  fertile  regions  in  India,  and  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  which  I saw.  From  Dehra,  the  whole  extent 
of  the  magnificent  valley  is  visible.  The  curves  of  the 
Himalayan  range  fill  up  its  vistas,  on  either  hand,  with 
views  of  the  loftier  summits,  and  thus  it  appears  completely 
shut  out  from  the  world.  The  vegetation  is  much  more 
luxuriant  than  upon  the  plains,  and  owing  to  its  sheltered 
position,  most  kinds  of  tropical  fruits  thrive  well,  although 
it  lies  between  30°  and  31°  N. 

The  morning  was  mild  and  cloudless,  the  road  excellent, 
and  we  rattled  along  merrily  between  clumps  of  bamboo 
and  groves  of  mango-trees,  occasionally  looking  up  to  the 
snows  that  sparkled  six  thousand  feet  above  us.  The  houses 
on  the  very  summit  of  the  mountain  were  distinctly  visible. 
The  vast  sides  and  shoulders  of  the  range  were  scantily 
clothed  with  jungle,  through  which  showed  the  dark-red 
hue  of  the  soil,  softened  to  a lurid  purple  by  distance.  To- 
ward their  bases  the  jungle  was  dense  and  green,  except 
where  the  soil  had  been  cleared  and  formed  into  terraces  for 
cultivation.  The  surface  of  the  valley  presented  a charming 
alternation  of  grain-fields,  groups  of  immense  mango  trees^ 
and  patches  of  woodland,  resembling,  in  its  general  aspect 


184  IKDIA,  CHINA,  AND  ^APAN. 

the  Midland  Counties  of  England.  Mr.  Keene  pointed  out 
a hill  to  the  eastward,  as  the  scene  of  a bloody  battle  during 
the  war  with  the  Goorkhas,  or  hill-tribes,  and  the  spot  where 
Gen.  Gillespie  fell.  The  fortress,  which  formerly  crowned 
the  hill,  has  been  entirely  demolished.  The  jungles  in  the 
valley  abound  with  wild  beasts.  Only  two  weeks  before,  a 
lady  who  was  taking  an  afternoon  ride  to  Kajpore,  saw  two 
full-grown  leopards  lying  in  a field,  not  more  than  fifty  yards 
from  the  road.  The  beasts  gazed  at  her  very  complacently, 
as  well-bred  leopards  might,  but  attempted  no  familiarities. 

In  an  hour  we  reached  Rajpore,  which  sits  upon  the  lowest 
step,  or  foundation  stone  of  the  mountain.  On  some  fine  wood- 
ed knolls  to  the  west  of  it  there  are  several  handsome  bunga- 
lows, the  summer  residences  of  invalided  or  furloughed  officers. 
There  is  also  a little  hotel,  whither  we  drove,  in  order  to  hire 
ponies  for  the  climb  of  seven  miles  to  Landowr.  A tall,  heavy- 
featured  weather-beaten  gentleman  of  forty-five  or  fifty,  was 
standing  in  the  verandah.  He  had  a red  Scotch  complexion, 
gray  eyes,  and  yellow  hair  on  the  sides  of  his  head,  the  crown 
being  bald.  There  was  something  indolent  and  phelgmatic  in 
his  air,  and  I was  greatly  surprised  when  Mr.  Keene  pointed 
him  out  to  me  as  Wilson,  the  noted  “ Ranger  of  the  Himalayas,” 
as  he  is  generally  called.  We  entered  into  conversation  with 
him  at  once.  He  had  come  down  from  Landowr  that  morning 
on  his  way  to  Dehra,  but  would  be  back  in  the  hills  in  a few 
days.  He  has  lived  almost  exclusively  among  the  upper 
ranges  of  the  Himalayas  for  more  than  ten  years,  and  knows 
every  pass  (so  he  informed  me),  as  far  as  Cashmere.  His 
wanderings  have  extended  as  far  as  Ladak,  or  Leh,  in  Thibet, 
the  capital  of  a state  which  is  at  present  tributary  to  Goolah 


CLIilBING  THE  MOUNTAIN, 


185 


Siugb,  tbe  Rajab  of  Cashmere.  He  said  there  was  no  difficulty 
in  reaching  either  Cashmere  or  Ladak,  and  if  I had  had  two 
months  more — but  one  cannot  see  every  thing.  Wilson  has 
much  influence  over  the  pahdrreesj  or  mountaineers,  and  his 
services  are  in  great  request  during  the  summer,  when  sport- 
ing tours  are  made  in  the  upper  Himalayas.  In  addition  to 
the  ibex,  bear,  and  mountain  sheep,  there  are  abundance  of 
superb  golden  pheasants  and  other  magnificent  specimens  of 
the  feathered  race,  the  skins  of  which  he  preserves,  and  which, 
when  sent  to  Calcutta  for  sale,  produce  him  a handsome 
return. 

I hired  a pony  for  two  rupees,  and  we  immediately  set  out 
for  Landowr.  Mr.  Keene,  being  the  Deputy  Magistrate  of  the 
Dhoon,  was  escorted  through  the  town  by  the  local  police,  who 
took  their  departure  with  profound  salaams.  The  road,  which 
was  merely  a narrow  path  for  horses,  notched  along  the  abrupt 
side  of  a spur  of  the  mountain,  commanded  a striking  view  of 
a deep  gorge  on  the  right  hand,  the  sides  of  which  were  ter 
raced  and  covered  with  a luxuriant  crop  of  wheat.  As  we 
ascended  further,  the  Dhoon  extended  below  us,  checkered 
with  forests  and  fields,  while  the  white  fronts  of  houses  dotted 
its  verdurous  map.  I was  reminded  of  the  view  from  Catskill 
Mountain-House,  but  missed  the  clearness  and  brilliancy  of  our 
American  atmosphere.  Here  there  was  a film  of  blue  vapor  on 
the  landscape,  like  a crape  over  my  eyes,  through  which  the  more 
distant  objects  glimmered  in  indistinct  and  uncertain  forms. 
The  further  we  climbed,  the  dimmer  became  the  scene,  until 
there  remained  but  a vapory  chaos — the  mere  ghost  of  a world 
below  us,  out  of  which  rose  the  summits  of  the  Siwalik  Hills 
as  if  upheaved  by  the  subsidence  of  the  agitated  elements. 


186 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


The  road  was  excessively  steep,  and  only  wide  enough  to 
admit  of  two  horsemen  passing  each  other.  In  many  places 
it  overhung  descents  which  were  so  nearly  precipitous  that  a 
stone  flung  out  would  strike  the  earth  many  hundreds  of  feet 
below.  The  jungle  became  more  scanty,  and  the  wild  flowers 
ceased.  Patches  of  snow  appeared  on  the  heights  on  either 
side,  and  gushes  of  a cold  wind,  sweeping  through  gaps  in  the 
range,  now  and  then  blew  in  our  faces.  At  length  we  reached 
the  top  of  a ridge,  an  outlying  spur  from  the  summit  upon 
which  Landowr  is  perched.  The  road  became  more  level,  and 
when  skirting  the  tremendous  gulf  separating  the  branches  of 
the  range,  was  protected  by  a balustrade.  A gateway  cut  in 
the  rock  admitted  us  to  the  north  side  of  the  ridge  we  had  as- 
cended, and  the  passage  through  it  introduced  us  to  a scenery 
of  such  a different  character,  that  it  mght  well  be  called  the 
Gate  of  the  Seasons.  Behind  us  the  sun  shone  warm,  the  grass 
was  green  and  a few  blossoms  still  kept  their  places  on  the 
trees ; but  around  and  before  us  were  beds  of  snow,  bare, 
brown  patches  of  sward,  and  leafless  boughs.  Only  the  oal’ 
— an  evergreen  variety,  with  a leaf  resembling  the  beech — and 
the  rhododendron,  retained  their  foliage.  The  height  before  us 
was  sprinkled  with  one-story  bungalows,  which  clung  to  such 
narrow  ledges  of  the  mountain  over  such  abrupt  and  frightful 
gulfs,  that  they  seemed  to  have  been  dropped  and  lodged 
there.  The  precipitous  village  and  the  houses  scattered  along 
the  irregular  summit  is  called  Landowr.  The  place  has  an 
extent  of  a mile  and  a half,  and  half  the  inhabitants,  at  least 
during  the  summer,  are  English.  On  one  of  the  highest 
points,  is  a large  military  hospital.  About  two  miles  to  the 


THE  POLE  AND  THE  EQUATOR. 


187 


West  of  Landowr  is  Mussooree,  which  is  scattered  in  like 
manner,  over  a ridge  nearly  a thousand  feet  lower. 

The  street  of  the  native  village  through  which  we  passed 
was  covered  with  snow  to  the  depth  of  three  feet,  and  owing 
to  the  constant  thaw  which  was  going  on,  our  horses  had 
some  difficulty  in  getting  through.  The  roofs  were  in  many 
places  broken  by  the  weight  of  snow  which  had  fallen  upon 
them.  However  we  reached  Mr.  Keene’s  bungalow  without 
accident,  where  his  tenant,  Lieut.  B.,  anticipated  our  wishes 
by  ordering  tiffin  to  be  got  ready.  I had  now  reached  the 
summit  of  the  second  range  of  the  Himalayas,  8,000  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  cottage  where  we  were  quartered 
was  perched  on  a narrow  shelf,  scooped  out  of  the  side 
of  the  mountain.  From  the  balcony  where  I sat,  I could 
have  thrown  a stone  upon  the  lowest  house  in  the  place. 
For  the  first  time  in  several  weeks,  the  thermometer  was 
above  freezing-point,  and  the  snows  with  which  the  roof 
was  laden  poured  in  a shower  from  the  eaves.  Around  me 
the  heights  were  bleak  and  white  and  wintry,  but  down  the 
gorge  below  me — far  down  in  its  warm  bed — I could  see 
the  evergreen  vegetation  of  the  Tropics.  Buried  to  the 
knees  in  a snow-drift,  I looked  upon  a palm-tree,  and  could 
almost  smell  the  blossoms  of  the  orange-bowers  in  a valley 
where  frost  never  fell.  It  was  like  sitting  at  the  North 
Pole,  and  looking  down  on  the  Equator. 

I had  a letter  to  Mr.  Woodside,  an  American  Missionary 
who  lived  upon  the  highest  point  of  Landowr,  and  Mr.  Keene 
and  I visited  him  during  the  afternoon.  We  had  still  half 
a mile  to  climb  before  reaching  the  summit  of  the  mountain, 
which  I found  to  be  a sharp,  serrated  crest,  not  more  than 


188 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


ten  yards  in  breadth.  Mr.  Woodside’s  house  commands  a 
view  of  both  sides  of  the  Sub-Himalayas;  and  a natural 
mound  beside  it  has  been  ascertained,  by  measurement,  to 
be  the  loftiest  spot  in  this  part  of  the  range.  The  house 
and  mound  were  purchased  by  a benevolent  Philadelphian, 
as  a sanitarium  for  Missionaries — a thing  much  needed  by 
that  class.  I suggested  to  Mr.  Woodside  the  propriety  of 
planting  a tall  flagstaff  on  the  mound,  and  running  up  the 
national  colors  on  certain  anniversaries. 

The  view  from  this  point  best  repaid  me  for  my  journey 
to  the  hills.  The  mound  on  which  we  stood  was  conical, 
and  only  twenty  feet  in  diameter  at  the  summit.  The  sides 
of  the  mountain  fell  away  so  suddenly  that  it  had  the  effect 
of  a tower,  or  of  looking  from  the  mast-head  of  a vessel. 
In  fact,  it  might  be  called  the  “ main  truck  ” of  the  Sub- 
Himalayas.  The  sharp  comb,  or  ridge,  of  which  it  is  the 
crowning  point,  has  a direction  of  north-west  to  south-east 
(parallel  to  the  great  Himalayan  range),  dividing  the  pano- 
rama into  two  hemispheres,  of  very  different  character.  To 
the  north,  I looked  into  the  wild  heart  of  the  Himalayas — 
a wilderness  of  barren  peaks,  a vast  jumble  of  red  mountains, 
divided  by  tremendous  clefts  and  ravines,  of  that  dark  indigo 
hue,  which  you  sometimes  see  on  the  edge  of  a thunder-cloud 
— ^but  in  the  back-ground,  towering  far,  far  above  them,  rose 
the  mighty  pinnacles  of  the  Gungootree,  the  Jumnootre,  the 
Budreenath,  and  the  Kylas,  the  heaven  of  Indra,  where  the 
Great  God,  Mahadeo,  still  sits  on  his  throne,  inaccessible  to 
mortal  foot.  I was  fifty  miles  nearer  these  mountains  than 
at  Boorkhee,  where  I first  beheld  them,  and  with  the  addi- 
tional advantage  of  being  mounted  on  a footstool,  equal  to 


GRAND  ASIATIC  TRADITION. 


189 


one  tliird  of  their  height.  They  still  stood  immeasurably 
above  me,  so  cold,  and  clear,  and  white,  that,  without  know- 
ledge to  the  contrary,  I should  have  said  that  they  were  not 
more  than  twenty  miles  distant.  Yet,  as  the  crow  flies,  a 
line  of  seventy  miles  would  scarce  have  reached  their 
summits ! 

Though  not  the  highest  of  the  Himalayas,  these  summits 
form  the  great  central  group  of  the  chain,  and  contain  the 
cisterns  whence  spring  the  rivers  of  India,  Thibet  and  Bur 
mah.  The  snows  of  their  southern  slopes  feed  the  Jumna 
and  Ganges;  of  their  northern,  the  Sutledj,  the  Indus  and 
the  Brahmapootra.  Around  this  group  cling  the  traditions 
of  the  Hindoo  Mythology.  Thence  came  the  first  parents 
of  the  race;  there  appeared  the  first  land  after  the  deluge. 
And  upon  the  lofty  table-lands  of  Central  Asia,  whereon 
those  peaks  look  down,  was  probably  the  birth-place  of  the 
great  Caucasian  family,  from  which  the  Hindoos  and  our- 
selves alike  are  descended.  Far  to  the  north-west,  where 
the  Altay,  the  Hindoo  Koosh  (or  Indian  Caucasus),  and  the 
Himalayas,  join  their  sublime  ranges,  there  is  a table-land 
higher  than  Popocatapetl,  called,  in  the  picturesque  lan- 
guage of  the  Tartars,  the  “Roof  of  the  World.”  Under 
the  eaves  of  that  roof,  on  the  table-land  of  Pamir,  if  we 
may  trust  Asiatic  tradition,  dwelt  the  parents  of  our  race. 
I fancied  myself  standing  on  the  cone  of  Gungootree,  and 
looking  down  upon  it.  The  vast  physical  features  of  this 
part  of  the  world  are  in  themselves  so  imposing,  that  we  are 
but  too  ready  to  give  them  the  advantage  of  any  myth  which 
invests  them  with  a grand  human  interest. 

There  is  a peculiarity  in  the  structure  of  the  Himalayas, 


190 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


of  which  I had  not  heard,  until  I visited  them.  At  their 
north-western  extremity,  on  the  frontiers  of  Cashmere  and 
Afghanistan,  the  lower  or  Sub-Himalayas  are  lofty,  and  so 
separated  by  deep  valleys  from  the  higher  or  snowy  range, 
as  almost  to  form  a parallel  chain.  As  we  proceed  east- 
ward, however,  the  relative  height  of  the  two  ranges  gra- 
dually changes.  The  peaks  of  the  Upper  Himalayas  increase 
in  height,  while  those  of  the  Sub-Himalayas  decrease.  A 
little  to  the  east  of  the  Dhoon,  the  Siwalik  Hills  cease  en- 
tirely. The  Sub-Himalayas  gradually  dwindle  away  toward 
Nepaul,  becoming  more  narrow  and  broken  as  they  approach 
the  termination  of  the  chain.  Dwalagheri,  in  the  main 
Himalayan  chain,  once  supposed  to  be  the  highest  moun- 
tain in  the  world,  is  in  Nepaul.  But  further  to  the  east^  is 
Chumalari,  which  is  still  higher,  and  recent  measurements 
have  discovered  that  another  peak,  still  further  eastward,  in 
the  former  province  of  Sikim,  is  higher  than  Chumalari. 
This  regular  increase  of  altitude  in  the  Himalayas,  as  you 
proceed  eastward,  is  very  curious.  The  height  of  Dwala- 
gheri is  estimated  at  27,000  feet;  Chumalari,  a little  more 
than  28,000,  and  the  third  peak,  the  name  of  which  I forget, 
fully  30,000  feet ! The  Rev.  Mr.  D’Aguilar,  whom  I saw 
at  Roorkhee,  penetrated  to  the  glaciers  of  Jumnootree.  He 
informed  me  that  in  ascending  the  Himalayas,  the  productions 
become  not  only  of  the  temperate  zone,  but  English  in  their 
character ; the  flowers,  fruit  and  shrubs  being  almost  identical 
with  those  of  England.  In  the  valleys,  however,  is  found  the 
deodar,  or  Himalayan  cypress,  which  grows  to  a height  of 
more  than  200  feet.  There  is  a temple  near  the  source  of 
the  Ganges,  but  owing  to  the  danger  and  difficulty  of  the 


THE  PAHARREES POLYANDRY. 


191 


journey,  comparatively  few  pilgrims  reach  it.  The  air  of 
the  mountain  is  pure,  fresh  and  invigorating,  and  the  pahar- 
rees  are  said  to  be  both  physically  and  mentally  superior  to 
the  inhabitants  of  the  plains.  Mr.  D’Aguilar  considered 
them  as  a strikingly  honest  and  faithful  race.  Owing  to 
the  difficulty  of  procuring  subsistence,  and  the  necessity  of 
restricting  the  increase  of  population.  Polyandry  has  existed 
among  them  from  time  immemorial.  The  woman  and  her 
husbands  live  together  harmoniously,  and  the  latter  contri- 
bute each  an  equal  share  to  the  support  of  the  children. 
Among  these  people  the  saying  will  particularly  apply  ; “ It’s 
a wise  child  that  knows  its  own  father.”  Another  of  their 
customs  is  still  more  singular.  Their  ideas  of  hospitality 
compel  them  to  share  not  only  their  food,  but  their  connubial 
right  with  the  stranger,  and  no  insult  is  so  great  as  a refusal 
to  accept  it.  While  in  Landowr,  I saw  several  of  them 
walking  bare-legged  through  the  snow,  which  troubled  them 
as  little  as  it  would  a horse.  They  were  handsome,  muscular 
fellows,  with  black  eyes,  ivory  teeth  and  a ruddy  copper 
complexion. 

I spent  the  afternoon  with  Mr.  Woodside,  and  at  sunset 
went  again  upon  the  mound,  to  witness  the  illumination  of 
the  Himalayas.  Although  there  were  clouds  in  the  sky,  the 
range  was  -entirely  unobscured,  and  the  roseate  glare  of  its 
enormous  fields  of  snow,  shooting  into  flame-shaped  pinnacles, 
seemed  lighted  up  by  the  conflagration  of  a world.  It  was 
a spectacle  of  surpassing  glory,  but  so  brief,  that  I soon  lost 
the  sense  of  its  reality. 

I was  called,  however,  to  witness . another  remarkable 
phenomenon.  Turning  from  the  fading  hills,  I looked  to  the 


102 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


south.  The  Dehra  Dhoon  was  buried  under  a sea  of  snow 
white  clouds,  which  rolled  and  surged  against  each  other 
sinking  and  rising,  like  the  billows  of  an  agitated  sea.  Where 
we  stood,  the  air  was  pure  and  serene ; but  ,far  away,  over 
that  cloudy  deluge — which  soon  tossed  its  waves  above  the 
peaks  of  the  Siwalik  Hills — more  than  a hundred  miles  away 
— and  high  in  air,  apparently,  ran  a faint  blue  horizon-line, 
like  that  of  the  sea.  It  was  the  great  plain  of  Hindostan, 
but  so  distant  that' the  delusion  was  perfect.  The  great  white 
billows  rose,  and  rose,  whirling  and  tossing  as  they  poured 
into  the  clefts  of  the  hills,  till  presently  we  stood  as  on  a little 
island  in  the  midst  of  a raging  sea.  Still  they  rose,  disclosing 
enormous  hollows  between  their  piled  masses;  cliffs,  as  of 
wool,  toppled  over  the  cavities;  avalanches  slid  from  the 
summits  of  the  ridges  and  slowly  fell  into  the  depths;  and 
as  I looked  away  for  many  a league  over  the  cloudy  world, 
there  was  motion  every  where,  but  not  a sound.  The  silence 
was  awful,  and  as  the  vast  mass  arose,  I felt  an  involuntary 
alarm,  lest  we  should  be  overwhelmed.  But  to  our  very  feet 
the  deluge  came,  and  there  rested.  Its  spray  broke  against 
the  little  pinnacle  whereon  we  stood,  but  the  billows  kept 
their  place.  It  was  as  if  a voice  had  said  : “ Thus  far  shalt 
thou  come,  and  no  further : and  here  shall  thy  proud  waves 
be  stayed.” 


CHAPTER  Xy. 

SCENES  IN  THE  DEHRA  D H 0 O N 

Retaru  to  Dehra — The  Dhoon — System  of  Taxation — ^Tho  Tea-Culture  in  India — Tea- 
Garden  at  Kaologir — Progress  by  Force — Ride  to  the  Robber's  Cave — A Sikh  Tem- 
ple— A Sunny  Picture — Sikh  Minstrelsy — Rajah  Loll  Singh — English  Masters  and 
Native  Servants — Preparations  for  Departure. 

We  returned  from  Landowr  on  Wednesday  afternoon,  the  2d 
of  February.  Lieut.  B.  urged  us  to  remain  another  day,  but 
the  Himalayas  (which  I had  gone  up  the  mountain  at  sun- 
rise to  see)  were  half  covered  with  clouds,  the  snow  was 
melting  on  all  sides,  and  the  paths  were  almost  impassable 
from  mud  and  slush.  There  was  said  to  be  a specimen  of 
the  y'ik^  or  Tartar  cow,  at  Mussooree,  which  I should  have 
seen,  but  for  three  miles  of  sloppy  road.  As  it  was,  I was 
glad  to  escape  from  the  dreary  though  sublime  heights  of 
Landowr,  and  return  to  Dehra,  with  its  groves  and  sunny 
gardens.  The  air  was  still  more  hazy  than  on  the  preceding 
day,  but  as  we  descended,  the  phantom  valley  flushed  into  form 
and  color,  and  in  an  hour  and  a half  from  the  time  my  pony 
tumbled  down  in  a snow-drift,  I reined  him  up  under  a palm-tree. 

Dehra,  as  I have  already  stated,  is  one  of  the  loveliest 
spots  in  India.  Judging  from  the  number  of  handsome 
9 


194 


INDIA,  CHIJNA,  AND  JAPAN. 


bungalows  in  and  around  fclie  town,  the  Anglo-Indians  are 
of  a similar  opinion.  vAs  mush  of  the  valley  is  entirely 
given  up  to  jungle,  parts  of  it,  which  are  marshy  and  un- 
drained, are  considered  unhealthy,  but  a little  attention  would 
make  it  one  of  the  healthiest,  as  it  is  one  of  the  most  fertile, 
districts  in  Northern  India.  A small  irrigating  canal  has 
been  carried  through  the  central  part,  but  it  does  not  even 
pay  the  expenses,  so  feeble  and  defective  is  the  agriculture  of 
the  Dhoon.  There  are  reckoned,  within  its  limits,  a hun- 
dred villages,  but  the  population  must  be  very  scanty,  since 
the  revenue  obtained  by  Government  only  amounts  to  22,000 
rupees.  When  I state  that  the  tax  imposed  upon  the  zenn- 
indars^  who  hold  the  land  as  Government  tenants,  amounts 
to  75  per  cent,  of  the  estimated  value  of  the  products,  it  will 
be  seen  how  trifling  the  actual  yield  must  be.  The  ryots^  or 
peasants,  to  whom  the  land  is  sub-let  by  the  zemindars,  are 
only  able  to  eke  out  a bare  subsistence,  so  that  here,  where 
thousands  of  acres  of  the  best  land  are  lying  waste,  the 
greater  part  of  the  inhabitants  are  in  a state  of  extreme 
poverty.  This  system,  by  which  the  East  India  Company 
is  the  virtual  proprietor  of  all  the  territory  under  its  exclu- 
sive contrpl,  must  necessarily  be  a check  to  the  prosperity  of 
India  and  the  civilization  of  its  people ; but  when  I expressed 
such  an  opinion  to  the  English  residents,  I was  generally  met 
by  the  remark  (the  same  often  used  by  Americans,  apolo- 
getic of  Slavery) : “ We  did  not  make  it — we  found  it  so.” 

The  introduction  of  the  Tea  Culture  into  India  is  an 
interesting  experiment — if,  indeed,  it  can  still  be  considered 
an  experiment.  The  Government,  within  the  past  ten  years, 
has  devoted  much  attention  to  it.  All  the  principal  varieties 


TEA  CULTURE  IN  INDIA. 


195 


of  the  tea-plant  have  been  imported,  experimental  gardens 
laid  out,  at  different  points  in  the  Himalayas,  from  Assam  to 
the  north-western  frontier  of  the  Punjaub,  and  Chinese  work- 
men procured  to  teach  the  preparation  of  the  leaves.  Mr. 
Fortune,  whose  travels  in  China,  on  his  mission  to  effect  these 
objects,  have  excited  considerable  notice,  had  been  dispatched 
a third  time  to  that  country,  to  procure  fresh  supplies  of 
plants  and  workmen.  The  Tea  Plant  was  first  introduced 
into  Assam,  a district  north  of  Bengal  and  lying  on  the 
Brahmapootra  River.  A company  was  formed  about  fifteen 
years  ago,  for  the  cultivation  and  manufacture  of  Tea;  but 
through  ignorance  and  inexperience,  it  was  for  some  time  a 
losing  concern.  At  present,  however,  it  has  so  far  succeed- 
ed as  to  produce  300,000  pounds  of  Tea,  and  to  pay  10  per 
cent,  annually  to  the  Company.  The  experimental  gardens 
in  the  northern  and  western  parts  of  the  Himalayas  have 
been  established  more  recently,  and  the  natives  are  now 
beginning  to  take  up  the  cultivation  of  the  plant. 

One  of  the  gardens  is  at  Kaologir,  about  three  miles  from 
I)ehra,  and  I visited  it  in  company  with  Mr.  Keene.  Mr. 
Fortune  considers  that  a level  alluvial  soil,  like  that  of  the 
Dhoon,  is  not  so  well  adapted  for  tea  as  the  hiliy  country 
about  Almorah  and  in  the  Punjaub,  and  if  he  be  correct  I 
did  not  see  the  plant  in  its  greatest  perfection;  though  I 
should  think  it  difficult  for  any  plantation  to  present  a more 
flourishing  appearance  than  parts  of  that  at  Kaologir.  It 
consists  of  three  hundred  acres  of  level  gouud — a rich,  dark 
loam,  mixed  with  clay — and  contains  plants  in  every  stage 
of  growth,  from  the  seedling  to  the  thick,  bushy  shrub,  six 
feet  high.  It  was  then  the  blossoming  season,  and  the  next 


196 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


crop  of  leaves  would  not  be  gathered  before  May.  The  plant 
bears  some  resemblance  to  the  ilex,  or  holly,  but  the  leaf  is 
smaller,  of  a darker  green,  and  more  minutely  serrated.  The 
blossom  is  mostly  white — in  some  varieties  a yellowish-brown 
— and  resembles  thai  of  the  wild  American  blackberry. 
The  plants  were  set  about  three  feet  apart,  in  rows  four 
feet  from  each  other,  with  small  channels  between,  for  the 
purpose  of  irrigation.  Mr.  Fortune,  however,  considers  that 
irrigation  is  rather  injurious  than  otherwise. 

Mr.  Thomson,  the  Superintendent  of  the  plantation,  as- 
sured me  that  the  average  yield  of  the  plants,  after  they  had 
reached  a proper  growth  for  plucking,  might  be  set  down  at 
1 cwt.  per  acre,  though,  under  favorable  circumstances,  it 
could  be  increased  to  200  lbs.  At  present,  the  Dehra  and 
Almorah  teas  sell  for  purely  fancy  prices,  being  bought  up 
with  avidity  at  the  annual  sales,  at  from  two  to  three  rupees 
a pound.  Dr.  Jameson,  who  has  charge  of  all  the  Tea  planta 
tions  in  the  north-west,  estimates  that  when  the  culture  shall 
have  become  general.  Tea  can  be  profitably  produced  at  six 
annas  (18  cents)  the  pound.  The  zemindars,  who  are  with 
difficulty  brought  to  accept  of  the  slightest  innovation,  are 
very  reluctant  to  undertake  the  culture,  although  the  Govern- 
ment not  only  releases  them  from  all  tax  upon  land  planted 
with  Tea  shrubs,  but  binds  itself  to  buy  from  them,  at  a re- 
munerative price,  all  the  Tea  they  can  produce.  It  is  now 
proposed  to  command  every  zemindar  who  leases  property 
beyond  a certain  number  of  acres,  to  cultivate  five  acres  of 
the  Tea  plant  Those  who  know  the  natives  best  say  that 
this  is  the  only  way  in  which  Tea  Culture  can  be  rapidly 
extended;  the  natives  being  perfectly  willing  to  obey  anj; 


RIDE  TO  THE  ROBBER’s  CAVE. 


197 


commands,  although  they  may  be  immovable  to  all  persua- 
sion. I have  been  told  that  when  urged  to  introduce  certain 
improvements  into  their  system  of  agriculture,  they  often 
answer : “ If  you  really  want  us  to  do  so,  why  don’t  you  give 
us  the  hookm  (command)  ? ” There  would  seem  to  be  some 
reason,  then,  in  such  a despotic  mode  of  introducing  the  Tea 
Culture.  I drank  of  both  the  Dehra  and  Almorah  Teas, 
which  were  deliciously  pure  and  fragrant,  though  much 
stronger  than  the  adulterated  Teas  exported  from  China. 

The  garden  at  Kaologir  was  kept  in  fine  order,  the  fields 
being  perfectly  clean  and  free  from  weeds,  and  separated  from 
each  other  by  hedges  of  Persian  roses,  of  the  deepest  crimson 
dye  and  intensest  summer  perfume.  We  passed  through  the 
plantation,  and  struck  across  an  open  tract  of  country  toward 
the  tents  of  Mr.  Thornhill,  the  Magistrate  of  the  Dhoon. 
He  received  us  hospitably  under  the  shade  of  his  patriarchal 
mango-trees,  and  lent  us  two  horses,  to  take  us  to  the  Rob- 
ber’s Cave,  which  was  three  or  four  miles  distant,  among  the 
hills  at  the  base  of  the  Himalayas.  We  had  a charming  ride 
through  alternate  groves,  jungles  and  grain-fields.  The  great 
mountains  before  us  lay  warm  and  red  in  the  afternoon  sun, 
and  away  to  the  west,  like  a soft,  white  cloud,  the  Chore  lifted 
his  snowy  head.  The  peasants  were  at  work  in  the  fields, 
and  boys,  clad  only  in  the  dhotee^  or  breech-cloth,  tended  the 
cows  as  they  browsed  along  the  edges  of  the  jungle. 

Finally  the  path  brought  us  to  the  brink  of  a deep  sunken 
glen,  the  sides  of  which  were  walls  of  magnificent  foliage.  It 
extended  before  us  for  nearly  a mile,  narrowing  as  it  ap 
proached  the  hills,  two  of  which  overhung  and  finally  blocked 
it  up.  Our  horses  scrambled  down  with  some  difficulty,  and 


193 


IlTDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


we  followed  the  course  of  a clear  mountain  stream,  which 
issued  from  the  further  extremity.  As  the  glen  grew  nar- 
rower, its  sides  became  more  steep  and  lofty,  yet  so  tho- 
roughly draped  with  shrubs  and  pendant  vines,  that  scarcely  a 
particle  of  soil  was  visible.  The  foliage  rolled  down  in  gor- 
geous masses,  on  either  hand,  dipping  its  skirts  in  the  clear, 
bright  stream,  that  flowed  at  the  bottom.  But  the  glen  at  length 
became  a-  ravine,  the  ravine  a crevice,  and  the  hills  closed, 
leaving  only  a split,  as  of  an  earthquake,  for  the  passage  of  the 
water.  A cold  wind  blew  continually  from  the  opening.  We  rode 
within  it  a short  distance  to  notice  the  splendor  of  the  leafy, 
sunlit  glen,  seen  through  the  black  jaws  of  the  gloomy  passage. 
The  rock  is  a coarse  conglomerate  of  limestone,  whence  I suspect 
that  the  “ Cave,”  as  it  is  called,  is  a natural  grotto,  and  not  a 
crevice  produced  by  an  earthquake,  as  some  persons  suppose. 
By  wading  in  the  bed  of  the  stream,  you  can  pass  entirely 
through  the  hill,  a distance  of  nearly  a mile,  emerging  into  a 
similar  glen  on  the  opposite  side.  I was  struck  with  the  re- 
semblance of  the  place  to  the  famous  “ Annathal,”  near 
Eisenach,  in  Germany. 

One  morning  I made  a visit  to  a Sikh  temple,  of  great 
sanctity,  which  stands  at  the  further  end  of  the  town.  It  is 
connected  with  the  tomb  of  a Gooroo,  or  Saint,  and  is  about 
two  hundred  years  old.  It  is  enclosed  in  a spacious  court,  and 
appears  to  have  been  built  on  the  site  of  some  older  edifice,  as 
a portion  of  the  gateway  is  evidently  of  much  earlier  date  than 
the  tomb.  One  of  the  buildings,  now  used  as  a habitation,  has 
a portico  of  very  grotesque  design,  covered  with  paintings 
representing  events  in  the- Saint’s  life,  and,  singularly  enough, 
portraits  of  some  of  the  Hindoo  gods.  The  religion  of  the  Sikhs 


A SIKH  TEMPLE. 


199 


is  a compromise  between  Islam  and  Hindooism,  rejecting  all  the 
minor  divinities  of  tbe  latter  and  accepting,  in  tbeir  stead,  the 
One  God  of  tbe  Moslems,  without  the  full  recognition  of 
Mahomet  as  his  Prophet.  They  abjure  caste,  but,  probably  out 
of  regard  for  the  feelings  of  their  converts,  abstain  from  eating 
cow’s  flesh.  Their  moral  code  is  very  similar  to  that  of  the 
Hindoos  and  Moslems.  One  of  the  pictures  in  the  portico 
illustrates  a miracle  which  happened  to  the  Sikh  Saint,  during 
a visit  which  he  made  to  Mecca.  Being  directed  by  the 
Moslem  priests  to  sleep  with  his  feet  to  the  Kaaba,  he  refused, 
and  lay  down  with  his  head  towards  it,  but  during  the  night  it 
turned  around  in  a marvellous  manner,  and  presented  itself  to 
his  feet ! 

A second  gateway  admitted  us  into  a garden,  containing  the 
tomb  of  the  Saint,  and  the  tombs  of  his  four  wives.  The  form- 
er stands  in  the  centre,  the  latter  in  the  four  corners  of  a paved 
court,  and  are  connected  with  each  other  by  narrow  stone  cause- 
ways. The  Saint’s  tomb  is  covered  with  a lofty  dome,  and 
surrounded  with  a cloister,  richly  enamelled  and  painted,  in  the 
style  of  the  Mogul  tombs  about  Agra  and  Delhi.  It  has  no 
pretensions  to  architectural  beauty,  but  was  a most  picturesque 
object,  with  its  white  dome,  its  deep  shadowy  arches,  and  the 
brilliancy  of  its  colors  half  touched  with  sunshine,  half  buried 
in  the  shade  of  two  massive  peepul  trees.  Over  the  corner  of 
the  platform  rose  the  stems  of  the  palm  and  Italian  cypress,  and 
beyond  the  garden-wall  appeared  the  tufted  tops  of  some  clumps 
of  bamboos.  It  was  a picture  ready  for  the  sun-steeped  pencil 
of  Cropsey. 

But  after  we  had  passed  around  to  the  front,  another  pic- 
ture, not  less  beautiful,  was  speedily  formed.  A blind  Sikh 


200 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


fakeer,  who  had  pilgrimed  his  way  thither  from  the  Pun- 
jauh,  lay  in  the  sun,  half-propped  against  one  of  the  pillars, 
with  a sitar^  or  Indian  violin,  in  his  hand.  We  asked  him 
to  play  for  us,  whereupon  he  slowly  tuned  the  strings,  took 
up  a short  how,  and  began  playing  one  of  those  passionate 
melodies  of  love  and  languishment,  which  you  only  hear  in 
a southern  clime.  The  body  of  the  violin  was  of  wood, 
curved  and  ribbed  so  as  to  resemble  a crooked  gourd,  or  a 
segment  of  a fossil  ammonite.  It  had  a short  neck,  and  four 
strings  of  catgut,  under  which  were  eight  very  slender  wires, 
out  of  the  reach  of  the  bow,  but  tuned  so  as  to  give  out  a 
spontaneous  accord  to  the  notes  produced  upon  the  strings. 
The  tones  were  like  those  of  an  ordinary  violin,  but  very 
pure,  sweet  and  ringing.  I should  think  the  instrument 
capable,  in  the  hands  of  a master,  of  producing  the  most 
exquisite  musical  effects.  In  the  Sikh’s  hands,  it  spoke  truly 
the  language  of  Southern  love,  now  passionate,  now  implor- 
ing, but  falling  always  into  the  same  melting  cadences,  which 
were  too  beautiful  to  be  monotonous.  He  sang,  like  the 
Arabs,  in  a succession  of  musical  cries.  Around  him  were 
Sikh  priests  and  a knot  of  half-naked  boys,  some  basking  in 
the  full  glare  of  the  sun,  some  seated  under  the  arches  of 
the  tomb.  They  were  all  necessary  parts  of  the  picture 
Would  the  music  have  had  the  same  meaning,  if  the  Sikh 
had  been  seated  under  a pine,  on  the  Catskill? — No;  that 
same  pine  is  not  more  different  from  the  palm  which  I saw 
while  listening  to  the  song,  than  is  Man,  in  the  North,  from 
Man,  in  the  South. 

On  our  return  home  we  called  at  the  house  of  the  Rajah 
Loll  Singh,  a Sikh  Chieftain,  to  whom  the  English  are  in- 


RAJAH  LOLL  SINGH. 


201 


debted  in  a great  measure  for  the  conquest  of  the  Punjaub 
But,  having  been  treacherous  to  his  countrymen  in  the  first 
place,  he  was  afterward  accused  of  meditating  treachery  to 
the  English,  and  had  only  recently  been  released  from  tem- 
porary imprisonment  at  Agra.  He  had  a pension  of  1,000 
rupees  a month  from  the  Government,  with  which  he  rented  a 
handsome  bungalow,  and  was  living  in  considerable  style 
He  had  a great  passion  for  dogs,  and  was  something  of  a 
sTiikarree^  or  sportsman.  The  guards  at  his  residence  pre- 
sented arms  as  we  rode  up,  and  we  were  soon  afterwards 
received  by  the  Bajah  himself.  Loll  Singh  means  “Bed 
Lion,”  and  the  name  well  suited  his  stout,  muscular  figure, 
heavy  beard  and  ruddy  face.  He  was  richly  dressed  in  a 
garment  of  figured  silk,  with  a Cashmere  shawl  around  his 
waist,  and  a turban  of  silk  and  gold.  Bings  of  gold  wire, 
upon  which  pearls  were  strung,  hung  from  his  ears  to  his 
shoulders.  His  eye  was  large,  dark  and  lustrous,  and  his 
smile  gave  an  agreeable  expression  to  a face  that  would  other- 
wise have  been  stern  and  gloomy.  As  he  spoke  no  English, 
my  conversation  with  him  was  confined  to  the  usual  greet- 
ings, and  some  expressions  of  admiration  respecting  a favorite 
spaniel,  which  he  called  “Venus.”  He  spent  the  same 
evening  at  Mr.  Keene’s,  appearing  in  a very  rich  and  elegant 
native  costume,  with  an  aigrette  of  large  diamonds  and 
emeralds  attached  to  his  throat. 

I was  much  amused  by  noticing  the  opinions  of  different 
English  residents,  respecting  their  native  servants.  Some 
praised  their  honesty  and  fidelity  in  high  terms ; others  de- 
nounced them  as  liars  and  pilferers.  Some  trusted  them 
implicitly  with  their  keys,  while  others  kept  their  cupboard? 

9# 


202 


IITDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


and  closets  carefully  locked.  Nearly  all  seemed  to  agree 
however,  that  one  can  never  wholly  depend  on  their  truth 
fulness.  There  are  laws  prohibiting  the  master  from  heating 
his  servants,  and  indeed  blows  are  of  no  effect.  The  punish- 
ment now  adopted,  is  to  fine  them,  which  has  been  found 
very  efficacious.  They  care  little  for  being  reproved,  if  in 
their  own  language,  but  are  greatly  annoyed  by  the  use  of 
English  terms,  which  they  do  not  understand.  Thus,  to 
address  a man  as : “You  wicked  rectangle ! ” “ You  speci- 
men of  comparative  anatomy ! ” &c.,  would  be  a much  greater 
indignity  than  the  use  of  the  vilest  epithets,  in  Hindostanee. 

After  having  enjoyed  Mr.  Keene’s  hospitality  for  five 
days,  I ordered  my  bearers  to  be  ready  on  Saturday  for  the 
return  to  Meerut.  The  day,  however,  brought  a thunder- 
storm and  rain  in  torrents,  obliging  me  to  postpone  my 
departure  until  the  following  morning.  Rajah  Loll  Singh 
offered  me  his  elephant,  for  the  ride  through  the  Siwalik 
Hills,  and  as  my  kind  host  proposed  to  take  me  across  the 
Dhoon  in  his  buggy,  I sent  the  palanquin  and  bearers  on  in 
advance,  tc  await  me  at  Mohun,  on  the  other  side  of  the  pass 


CHAPTER  XYI 

JOCRNEY  TO  MEERUT  AND  CAWNPORE. 

Bide  to  Shahpore — The  Rajah's  Elephant — The  Pass  of  the  Siwalik  Hills — I Resnme 
the  Palanquin — ^The  Large  Punch-House — Saharunporc — The  American  Mission— 
The  Botanic  Garden — A Dreary  Journey — Travellers — Salutations — ^Return  to 
Meerut— A Theft — .Tourney  over  the  Plains — Scenery  of  the  Road— The  Pollution 
of  Touch — Fractious  Horses — Arrival  at  Cawnpore — Capt  Riddell — ^The  English 
Cantonments. 

1 LEFT  Mr.  Keene’s  pleasant  residence  at  Debra  on  Sunday 
morning,  the  6th.  The  thunder-storm  had  passed  away,  the 
sky  was  blue  and  vaporless,  the  verdure  of  the  beautiful 
valley  freshened  by  the  rain,  and  the  heights  of  the  Sub- 
Himalayas  were  capped  with  new-fallen  snow.  My  host  and  I 
took  a hasty  breakfast,  and  then  set  off  for  Shahpore  in  his 
buggy.  The  distance  was  nine  miles,  the  road  muddy,  full 
of  deep  pools  left  by  the  rain,  and  ascending  as  we  approached 
the  hills,  so  that  we  made  but  slow  progress.  Prom  the 
mouth  of  the  pass  I turned  to  take  a last  view  of  the  lovely 
valley.  Just  within  the  opening  is  Shahpore,  a native  ham* 
let,  consisting  of  about  a dozen  bamboo  huts.  Mr.  Keene 
was  here  met  by  one  of  the  native  police,  who  engaged  to 


204 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


send  a cheprassee  with  me  to  Mohun,  for  the  purpose  of 
seeing  that  my  bearers  were  ready. 

The  Rajah  had  kept  his  promise,  and  his  big  she-elephant 
had  already  arrived.  She  knelt  at  the  keeper’s  command, 
and  a small  ladder  was  placed  against  her  side,  that  I might 
climb  upon  the  pad,  as  I had  been  unable  to  borrow  a howdah. 
I had  a package  of  bread  and  cold  roast-beef,  to  serve  me  as 
a tijBGin,  but  was  careful  to  conceal  it  from  the  driver,  other- 
wise himself  and  the  elephant,  with  all  her  trappings,  must 
have  undergone  purification  on  account  of  the  unclean  flesh. 
I took  a reluctant  leave  of  Mr  Keene,  seated  myself  astride 
on  the  pad,  with  the  driver  before  me,  on  the  elephant’s  neck, 
and  we  moved  off.  The  driver  was  a Sikh,  in  a clean  white 
and  scarlet  dress,  and  a narrow  handkerchief  bound  around 
his  head.  His  long,  well-combed  hair  was  anointed  with 
butter,  and,  as  his  head  was  just  under  my  nose,  I was  con- 
tinually regaled  with  the  unctuous  odors.  He  carried  a short 
iron  spike,  with  which  he  occasionally  punched  the  elephant’s 
head,  causing  her  to  snort  and  throw  up  her  trunk,  as  she 
quickened  her  pace.  I found  the  motion  very  like  that  of  a 
large  dromedary,  and  by  no  means  unpleasant  or  fatiguing. 
Though  walking,  she  went  at  the  rate  of  about  five  miles  an 
hour.  I noticed  that  the  driver  frequently  spoke  to  her,  in 
a quiet,  conversational  tone,  making  remarks  about  the  roads 
and  advising  her  how  to  proceed— all  of  which  she  seemed 
to  understand  perfectly,  and  obeyed  without  hesitation. 

After,  leaving  Shahpore,  the  road  ascended  through  a wild 
gorge  of  about  half  a mile,  where  it  reached  the  dividing 
ridge  and  thence  descended  into  a winding  glen,  which  showed 
traces  of  having  been  worn  through  the  hills  by  the  action 


THE  PASS  OF  THE  SIWALIK  HILLS. 


205 


of  water  Our  path  followed  the  bed  of  the  stream  for  the 
distance  of  eight  miles,  where  the  pass  opens  upon  the  great 
plain.  The  scenery  is  very  wild  and  picturesque,  the  hills 
being  covered  to  their  very  summits  with  jungle,  the  abode 
of  the  tiger  and  wild  elephant.  None  of  the  peaks  are  more 
than  1,000  or  1,200  feet  above  the  bottom  of  the  glen,  yet 
in  their  forms  they  have  a striking  similarity  to  the  great 
Himalayan  range.  They  are  sharp  and  conical,  frequently 
with  a perpendicular  front,  like  a bisected  cone,  and  are 
divided  by  deep  and  abrupt  chasms.  I was  quite  charmed 
with  the  succession  of  landscapes  which  the  windings  of  the 
pass  brought  to  view,  and  nothing  was  wanting  to  complete 
my  satisfaction  but  the  sight  of  a tiger.  The  jungle  was 
filled  with  parrots,  a bird  with  plumage  blue  as  a turquoise, 
and  flocks  of  wild  peacocks.  The  plumage  of  the  latter 
bird  is  much  more  brilliant  than  that  of  the  domesticated 
fowl,  although  the  body  is  smaller.  Near  the  entrance  of 
the  pass,  a large  congregation  of  monkeys,  each  seated  on 
a huge  boulder  left  by  the  floods,  gravely  watched  me  as 
I passed. 

At  Mohun  I found  my  palanquin  standing  in  front  of 
the  Police  office,  which  was  a bamboo  hut.  The  cheprassees 
were  very  obsequious  in  their  offers  of  service,  and  imme- 
diately called  together  my  bearers.  I sent  back  the  ele- 
phant, seated  myself  cross-legged  in  the  palanquin,  and 
made  a very  fair  tiffin  out  of  the  prohibited  cow’s-flesh  and 
bread,  Saharunpore  was  twenty-nine  miles  distant,  and  it 
was  already  noon.  I therefore  urged  on  the  bearers,  in  the 
hope  of  arriving  before  dark.  The  plain  was  very  mono- 
tonous, swept  by  cold  winds  from  the  hills,  and  appeared  like 


206 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


a desert,  by  contrast  with  the  luxuriant  Dhoon.  The  sun 
went  down,  and  I was  still  stretched  in  the  tiresome  palan- 
quin, but  about  dusk  the  mussalchee  (torch-bearer)  came  and 
asked  where  they  should  take  me.  I supposed  there  was  a 
hotel  in  Saharunpore,  and  answered ; “ to  the  punch  ghur  ” 
(punch-house  or  hotel).  “ Which  one  ? ” he  again  asked. 
At  a venture,  I answered:  “the  hurra  (large)  punch-ghur.” 
Away  they  went,  and  in  a quarter  of  an  hour,  the  palanquin 
was  set  down.  “ Here  is  the  punch-house,”  said  the  mus- 
salchee. I crept  out,  and  found  myself  at  the  door  of  the 
Station  Church ! There  happened,  however,  to  be  some 
natives  passing  through  the  enclosure,  who  directed  me  to 
the  dawk  bungalow,  as  there  was  no  hotel.  I called  on  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Campbell,  an  American  Missionary,  in  the  course 
of  the  evening,  and  he  at  once  quartered  me  in  his  house. 

As  my  bearers  were  engaged  to  start  for  Meerut  the 
next  morning,  my  kind  host  arose  before  sunrise  and  took 
me  in  his  buggy  to  see  something  of  the  place.  The  can- 
tonments are  scattered  over  a wide  space,  and  have  not  the 
comfortable  air  of  those  at  Meerut.  The  lanes  are  lined 
with  the  casurena  or  Australian  Pine,  a lofty,  ragged  look- 
ing tree,  with  very  long  and  slender  fibres,  which  gives  the 
place  the  air  of  an  English  or  German  country  town.  The 
native  city  has  a population  of  about  80,000  inhabitants, 
and  appeared  to  be  an  industrious  and  flourishing  place. 
The  American  Mission  at  Saharunpore  is  supported  by  the 
Presbyterian  Board.  The  Missionaries  have  erected  a hand- 
some church,  two  spacious  dwelling-houses,  and  a school 
house,  all  within  the  same  enclosure,  besides  an  agency  in 
the  native  town  for  the  distribution  of  books,  and  the  dis 


AMERICAN  MISSIONS. 


207 


cussion  of  religious  matters  with  any  of  the  natives  who 
choose  to  come  forward.  Mr.  Campbell  was  sanguine  as 
to  the  ultimate  success  of  Missions  in  India.  Their  schools 
of  education  (embracing  also  religious  instruction)  are  cer- 
tainly doing  much  to  enlighten  the  race;  but  so  far  as  I 
could  learn,  very  few  scholars  change  their  faith,  though 
educated  as  Christians.  They  look  upon  the  Christian 
Doctrine  very  much  as  we  look  upon  the  Greek  Mythol- 
ogy. They  are  interested  in  it,  they  admire  portions  of  it, 
yet  still  go  on  worshipping  the  lingam,  and  keeping  up  the 
distinctions  of  caste.  I have  no  doubt  that  caste  is  at  the 
bottom  of  all  this,  and  that  many  who  are  convinced  in  their 
own  hearts  of  the  truth  of  Christianity,  dare  not  avow  it,  on 
account  of  the  ban  of  excommunication  from  their  friends  and 
kindred,  which  would  immediately  follow. 

Mr.  Campbell  took  me  to  the  Botanic  Garden,  where  I 
had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  Dr.  Jameson,  who  has  charge  of 
the  Tea  Culture  in  the  north-west.  The  Garden  is  one 
of  the  finest  in  India.  It  is  laid  out  with  great  taste, 
and  contains  nearly  all  the  indigenous  trees  and  plants, 
besides  many  exotics.  I there  saw,  for  the  first  time,  a 
cinnamon  tree,  the  large  glossy  leaves  of  which  were  re- 
dolent of  its  spicy  blood.  The  cinnamon  is  brother  to  our 
native  sassafras.  It  is  of  so  refined  and  dainty  a nature, 
that  there  are  but  few  parts  of  the  world  where  it  will 
grow. 

I left  Saharunpore  at  ten  o’clock,  congratulating  myself, 
as  I entered  my  palanquin,  that  it  was  the  last  journey  I 
should  make  in  such  a disagreeable  vehicle.  It  was  a veiled, 
cool  and  dreary  day ; the  plains  had  even  9 wintry  look,  and 


208 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


nothing  could  be  more  monotonous.  I was  heartily  sick 
of  the  journey  before  night.  The  Himalayas  were  so  ob- 
scured that  nothing  but  a large  leaden-colored  mass  was  to 
be  seen  on  the  horizon.  The  road  was  crowded  with  people 
among  whom  were  several  Englishmen  in  their  palanquins, 
on  their  way  up  to  the  hills.  Numbers  of  native  women 
also  passed,  some  in  the  hackree^  or  bullock-cart,  and  others 
borne  in  a dhodlie,  a rude  sort  of  palanquin  made  of  bamboo, 
and  covered  with  a cotton  cloth.  These  are  the  “ferocious 
Dhoolies,”  who,  according  to  Sheridan,  in  one  of  his  Par 
liamentary  speeches,  “ carried  off  the  unfortunate  wounded  ” 
from  the  field  of  battle — the  orator,  ignorant  of  Hindostanee, 
supposing  that  the  “ dhoolies  ” were  a tribe  of  savage  people. 

At  dusk  I reached  a station  where  the  bearers  were  not 
on  hand,  but  such  vigorous  search  was  made  for  them  that 
I was  not  detained  more  than  half  an  hour.  The  native 
salutation  in  these  parts  is  “ E-am,  Ram ! ” and  the  answer 
the  same — as  if  one  should  say,  in  English,  “ God,  God ! ” 
instead  of  “ Good  morning.”  I was  no  longer  addressed  as 
“Protector  of  the  Poor,”  but  received  the  Persian  title  of 
Khodawend^  which  signifies  “ My  Lord.”  About  nine  o’clock 
I reached  Mozuffernuggur,  only  half  way  to  Meerut.  I rolled 
myself  in-  my  quilted  rezaya^  closed  the  palanquin,  except 
when  the  bearers  cried  out  for  backsheesh,  and  so  slept, 
dozed,  and  waked  alternately  through  the  long,  chilly  night. 
The  first  streak  of  dawn  showed  me  the  buildings  of  Sird- 
hana  (the  former  residence  of  the  famous  Begum  Somroo), 
on  the  right,  and  just  as  the  sun  rose  the  shivering  bearers 
sot  me  down  at  the  hotel  in  Meerut. 

I visited  the  unwashed  individual  of  whom  I spoke  in  a 


THE  ROAD  TO  CAWNTDRE. 


209 


former  chapter,  returned  him  his  palanquin,  and  then  engaged 
a garree  to  Cawnpore.  The  distance  was  273  miles,  and  the 
cost  of  a comfortable  garree,  with  relays  of  horses,  about 
$16.  In  order  to  rest,  and  to  allow  time  for  the  necessary 
preparations  to  be  made,  I did  not  leave  until  evening — a delay 
which  enabled  the  native  servants  at  the  hotel  to  steal  from 
me  a handsome  box  of  Cashmere  manufacture — the  present 
of  a friend — containing  several  beautiful  Delhi  miniatures. 
I did  not  discover  the  loss  until  reaching  Cawnpore,  and 
was  the  more  annoyed  at  it,  as  there  was  then  no  chance 
of  replacing  the  miniatures. 

The  night  of  leaving  Meerut,  I again  passed  Allyghur, 
much  to  my  regret,  for  I desired  to  see  the  famous  pillar 
of  Coel.  Morning  dawned  on  the  plains  of  Hindostan. 
There  is  almost  as  little  variety  in  the  aspect  of  these  im- 
mense plains  as  in  that  of  the  open  sea.  The  same  fields  of 
wheat,  poppies,  grain  and  mustard  alternate  Vith  the  same 
mango  or  tamarind  groves;  the  Hindoo  temples  by  the 
roadside  are  the  same  dreary  architectural  deformities,  and 
the  villages  you  pass,  the  same  collections  of  mud  walls, 
thatched  roofs  and  bamboo  verandah’s,  tenanted  by  the  same 
family  of  hideous  fakeers,  naked  children,  ugly  women 
(who  try  to  persuade  you  that  they  are  beautiful,  by  hiding 
their  faces),  and  beggars  in  every  stage  of  deformity.  But 
I noticed,  as  I proceeded  southward,  spacious  caravanserais, 
built  of  burnt  brick,  though  ruined  and  half  deserted ; richer^ 
groves  of  tamarind  and  brab  palm;  and  the  minarets  and 
pagodas  of  large  towns  which  the  road  skirted,  but  did  not 
enter.  I stopped  at  the  bungalow  of  Etah  for  breakfast, 
which  was  ready  in  an  hour.  The  bungalows  on  this  road 


210 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


are  much  superior  to  those  in  other  parts  of  India.  The 
floors  are  carpeted,  and  there  are  mattrasses  and  pillows  on 
the  charpoys.  The  rooms  have  a neat,  homelike  air,  and 
are  truly  oases  in  that  vast  wilderness — for'  such  India  still 
is,  except  where  the  European  hand  has  left  its  trace.  The 
day  passed  away  like  other  days  on  the  plains  It  was  warm 
during  the  mid-hours,  and  the  road  was  very  dusty,  in  spite 
of  the  recent  rains.  It  is  a magnificent  highway,  and  would 
not  suffer  by  comparison  with  any  in  Europe.  The  amount 
of  travel  is  so  great,  that  from  sunrise  until  sunset,  I beheld 
an  almost  unbroken  procession  of  natives  of  all  descriptions, 
from  the  Affghan  and  Sikh,  to  the  Goorkha  of  the  hills  and 
the  Mahratta  of  the  Deccan,  with  tattoos  (as  the  little  coun- 
try ponies  are  called),  camels,  elephants,  Persian  steeds,  buffa- 
loes, palanquins,  dhoolies,  hackrees,  bullock  trains,  and  the 
garrees  of  luxurious  travellers  like  myself.  I can,  however, 
feel  neither  the  same  interest  in,  nor  respect  for,  the  natives 
of  India,  as  for  the  Arab  races  of  Africa  and  Syria.  The 
lower  castes  are  too  servile,  too  vilely  the  slaves  of  a de- 
grading superstition,  and  too  much  given  to  cheating  and 
lying.  One  cannot  use  familiarity  towards  them,  without 
encouraging  them  to  impertinence.  How  different  from  my 
humble  companions  of  the  Nubian  Desert! 

About  noon  I passed  Mynpoorie,  a civil  and  missionary 
station,  though  not,  I believe,  a military  cantonment.  To- 
wards evening  I stopped  for  an  hour  at  another  bungalow, 
to  take  dinner,  and  then  started  for  Cawnpore.  The  driver 
was  changed  again  at  dusk,  and  as  I was  very  thirsty,  I 
asked  him  to  get  me  a drink  of  water,  before  giving  him 
his  backsheesh.  Unfortunately,  I had  forgotten  to  bring  a 


THE  POLLUTION  OF  TOUCH. 


211 


glass  with  me,  and  the  people  refused  to  let  me  touch  one 
of  their  brass  drinking-vessels,  as  this  would  occasion  them 
a violent  scouring,  if  not  the  destruction  of  the  article. 
After  some  search,  a clay  vessel  of  the  rudest  description 
was  found,  with  a spout  like  a tea-pot,  and  I was  allowed 
to  drink  by  holding  it  above  my  head  and  pouring  the 
stream  down  my  throat.  I had  learned  the  trick  of  this 
on  the  Nile,  or  it  might  have  been  a strangling  matter. 
To  such  an  extent  are  the  accursed  laws  of  caste  carried, 
that  where  the  English  have  ruled  for  nearly  a century, 
their  very  touch  is  defilement.  On  my  trip  from  Bombay 
to  Agra,  being  ignorant  of  the  practical  operation  of  these 
laws,  I frequently  helped  myself  to  the  cups  of  the  natives, 
when  they  refused  to  furnish  me  with  drink.  In  this  way, 
very  innocently,  I occasioned  the  destruction  of  considerable 
crockery. 

We  had  several  fractious  horses  during  the  night,  but 
I had  learned  patience  by  long  experience,  and  so  lay  still 
and  let  the  beast  take  his  course.  I think  we  must  have 
been  detained  in  one  spot  nearly  half  an  hour,  by  a horse 
that  would  dash  from  side  to  side,  obstinately  refusing  to 
go  forward.  In  the  traveller’s  book  at  the  bungalow  where 
I dined,  I read  the  memorandum  of  a gentleman  who  had 
been  left  in  the  lurch  by  the  driver  and  groom,  after  they 
had  taken  the  bits  out  of  the  horse’s  mouth.  He  was  run 
away  with,  and  narrowly  escaped  being  dashed  to  pieces. 
I feared,  once  or  twice,  that  I might  have  the  same  driver 
and  groom,  and  the  same  wicked  tattoo.  At  last,  when  the 
Great  Bear  (my  nocturnal  dial)  had  passed  his  occultation^ 
and  I knew  that  the  dawn  would  appear  in  half  an  hour,  I 


212  INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 

was  set  down  at  the  Cawnpore  Hotel.  Shortly  after  I 
arrived,  a salute  of  nineteen  guns  announced  the  departure 
of  the  Governor  of  the  North-West. 

Looking  out  of  the  window  of  my  room,  after  sunrise, 
1 saw  the  Ganges  flowing  beneath  it — ^not  a sparkling  moun- 
tain stre^,  as  at  Hurdwar,  but  a deep,  muddy  river,  lined 
with  barges.  The  opposite  bank  was  a beach  of  white  sand, 
which  glared  painfully  in  the  sun.  After  a visit  to  a half- 
blood,  or  Eurasian  banker,  I went  to  the  Joint  Magistrate, 
Capt.  Riddell,  whom  I found  dispensing  justice  to  the 
natives,  under  the  shade  of  a huge  umbrella  tent,  in  the 
midst  of  his  own  umbrageous  compound.  He  received  me 
very  courteously,  and  insisted  on  my  removing  to  his  house, 
but  as  I had  made  arrangements  to  leave  the  same  evening 
for  Lucknow,  I could  only  promise  to  spend  Saturday 
morning  with  him  after  my  return. 

Cawnpore  is  a pleasant  spot,  though  it  contains  nothing 
whatever  to  interest  the  traveller.  It  is  one  of  the  largest 
cantonments  in  the  Mofussil  (the  Anglo-Indian  term  for 
the  rural  districts),  and  the  scattering  bungalows  of  the 
civil  and  military  residents  extend  for  five  miles  along  the 
western  bank  of  the  Ganges,  which  is  high  and  steep.  The 
town  is  shaded  with  neem  trees  of  great  size.  In  walking 
past  the  bungalows,  I noticed  many  elegant  and  well  kept 
gardens,  and  was  more  than  once  greeted  with  the  delicious 
odor  of  violets  in  bloom.  Close  beside  the  beds  of  this 
humble  Saxon  flower  hung  the  scarlet  buds  of  the  Syrian 
pomegranate,  or  the  tattered  plumes  of  the  tropical  banana. 
The  residences  are  large,  but  their  enormous  roofs  of  thatch 
contrast  oddly  with  verandahs  supported  by  Ionic  pillars 


CAWNPORE. 


213 


The  Church  is  a large  Gothic  edifice,  English  from  turret 
to  foundation  stone,  and  an  exile,  like  those  who  built  it. 
A Gothic  building  looks  as  strangely  among  palm-trees,  as 
an  Oriental  palace  on  the  shores  of  Long- Island  Sound. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

A DAY  AT  LUCKNOW. 


Crossing  the  Ganges — Night- Journey  to  Lucknow — Arrival — A Mysterious  Visitor— A 
Morning  Stroll — The  Goomtee  Eiver— An  Oriental  Picture— The  Crowds  of  Luck- 
now— Col.  Slecman,  the  Resident— Drive  through  the  City — The  Constantinople 
Gate — Architectural  Effects — The  Iniambarra — Gardens  and  Statues — Singular  Dec- 
orations of  the  Tomb — The  Chandeliers — Speculation  in  Oude — Hospital  and  Mosque 
— ^The  King’s  New  Palace — The  Martinlere — Royalty  Plundered — The  Dog  and  the 
Rose-Water — Destruction  of  the  King’s  Sons — ^The  Explosion  of  a Fiend — Misrule 
in  Oude — Wealth  of  Lucknow — A Ride  on  a Royal  Elephant— The  Queen-Dowa- 
ger’s Mosque — Navigating  the  Streets — A Squeeze  of  Elephants — The  Place  of  Exe- 
cution— The  Choke — Splendor  and  Corruption. 

The  post-garree  for  Lucknow  called  for  me  in  the  evening, 
at  the  hotel.  There  is  a good  road  from  Cawnpore  to  the 
former  place,  with  communication  twice  a day,  and  the  dis- 
tance, fifty-three  miles,  is  usually  made  in  seven  hours.  In  a 
few  minutes  after  leaving,  we  reached  the  bridge  of  boats  over 
the  Ganges,  where  I,  as  the  passenger,  was  obliged  to  pay 
half  a rupee  at  each  end.  This  is  a regulation  peculiar  tc 
the  Cawnpore  bridge,  distinguishing  it  from  all  others  in 
the  world.  After  crossing  the  river,  we  came  upon  a long 
plank  causeway,  extending  over  the  sandy  flats  on  the  op- 
posite side.  The  night  was  dark  and  damp,  and  I closed 


A MYSTERIOUS  VISITOR. 


215 


the  panels  on  each  side  and  disposed  myself  to  sleep.  The 
country  between  the  two  places  is  an  extension  of  the  great 
plain,  and  there  is  nothing  on  the  road  worth  seeing. 

On  awaking  out  of  a sound  sleep,  about  three  o’clock 
in  the  morning,  I found  the  garree  standing  before  the  door 
of  the  dawk  bungalow  and  post-office,  which  are  both  in 
one  building.  The  drowsy  chokedar  showed  me  into  a 
room  with  eight  doors,  containing  a table  and  charpoy, 
covered  with  a rude  mattrass.  I tried  to  fasten  the  doors 
but  four  of  them,  which  led  into  other  parts  of  the  build- 
ing, had  no  locks.  I then  half  undressed  and  lay  down  on 
the  mattrass  to  finish  my  night’s  rest.  It  might  have  been 
an  hour  afterward,  as  I was  lying  in  that  dim  condition 
betwixt  sleeping  and  waking,  when  I heard  a slight  noise 
at  one  of  the  doors — a muffled  vibration,  as  if  it  had  sud- 
denly opened  to  a gentle  pressure.  Listening  intently,  with 
all  my  senses  preternaturally  sharpened,  I heard  a very 
slow  and  cautious  footstep  upon  the  matting,  and  was  try 
ing  to  ascertain  in  which  direction  it  moved,  when  I dis- 
tinctly felt  the  gentlest  touch  in  the  world,  as  if  some  one 
had  passed  his  hand  down  my  side.  I sprang  up  in  some 
alarm,  uttering  an  involuntary  exclamation,  but  could  nei- 
ther see  nor  hear  any  thing,  nor  did  any  thing  appear  until 
I became  fatigued  with  watching,  and  fell  asleep  again 
But,  from  the  fact  that  several  attempts  at  robbery  were 
made  the  same  night,  I have  no  doubt  whatever  that  it  was 
an  artful  thief,  in  search  of  plunder,  and  probably  one  of 
those  adroit  scamps  to  be  found  only  in  India,  who  will  take 
the  clothes  off  a man’s  back  while  he  is  asleep,  without 
awaking  him. 


216  INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 

After  an  early  cup  of  tea,  I started  off  on  a solitary 
stroll,  postponing  my  visit  to  Col.  Sleeman,  the  English 
Resident,  until  after  breakfast.  I set  out  at  random,  but 
soon  ascertained  the  direction  in  which  the  principal  part 
of  the  city  lay,  by  glimpses  of  its  fortress  walls,  domes  and 
airy  minarets.  I did  not  feel  inclined,  however,  to  plunge 
into  its  depths  without  a guide,  but  followed  the  course  of 
a bazaar,  which  was  filled  with  venders  of  fruity  vegetables 
and  firewood.  Crowds  of  people  passed  to  and  fro,  the 
gaudy  dresses  of  many  of  the  natives  betraying,  as  at  Delhi, 
the  presence  of  a native  court.  Some  were  borne  in  palan- 
quins, some  mounted  on  elephants,  and  a few  on  fine  horses 
of  Arabian  blood.  They  looked  at  me  with  curiosity,  as  if 
an  Englishman  on  foot  was  an  unusual  sight.  On  the  way 
I passed  several  small  mosques,  which  showed  an  odd  mix- 
ture of  the  Saracenic  and  Hindoo  styles,  a hybrid  in  which 
the  elegance  of  Saracenic  architecture  was  quite  lost.  Which- 
ever way  I looked,  I saw  in  the  distance,  through  the  morn- 
ing vapors,  the  towers  of  Hindoo  temples,  or  the  bulbous 
domes  of  mosques,  many  of  them  gilded,  and  flashing  in 
the  rays  of  the  sun. 

The  street  I had  chosen  led  me  to  a bridge  over  the  river 
Goomtee,  which  here  flows  eastward,  and  skirts  the  northern 
Bide  of  the  city.  The  word  Ooomiee  means  literally,  “ The 
Twister,  ” on  account  of  the  sinuous  course  of  the  river.  Look- 
ing westward  from  the  centre  of  the  bridge,  there  is  a beautiful 
view  of  the  city.  Further  up  the  river,  which  flowed  with  a 
gentle  current  between  grassy  and  shaded  banks,  was  an  ancient 
stone  bridge,  with  lofty  pointed  arches.  The  left  bank  rose 
gradually  from  the  water,  forming  a long  hill,  which  was  crown- 


AN  ORIENTAL  PICTURE. 


217 


ed  with  palaces  and  mosques,  stretching  away  into  the  distance, 
where  a crowd  of  fainter  minarets  told  of  splendors  beyond.  The 
coup  d’oeil  resembled  that  of  Constantinople,  from  the  bridge 
across  the  Golden  Horn,  and  was  more  imposing,  more  pictu- 
resque and  truly  Oriental  than  that  of  any  other  city  in  India. 
The  right  bank  was  level,  and  so  embowered  in  foliage  that  only 
a few  domes  and  towers  were  visible  above  the  sea  of  sycamores, 
banyans,  tamarind,  acacia,  neem  and  palm-trees.  I loitered  on 
the  bridge  so  long,  enjoying  the  refreshing  exhilaration  of  such 
a prospect,  that  I am  afraid  the  dignity  of  the  great  English 
race,  in  my  person,  was  much  lessened  in  the  eyes  of  the  natives. 

The  picture,  so  full  of  Eastern  pomp  and  glitter,  enhanced 
by  the  luxuriance  of  Nature,  was  made  complete  by  the  char- 
acter of  the  human  life  that  animated  it.  Here  were  not  mere 
ly  menials,  in  scanty  clothing,  or  sepoys  undergoing  daily  pillo- 
ry  in  tight  coats  and  preposterous  stocks,  but  scores  of  emirs, 
cadis,  writers,  and  the  like,  attired  in  silken  raiment  and  splen- 
didly turbaned,  continually  passing  to  and  fro,  with  servants 
running  before  them,  dividing  the  crowds  for  the  passage  of 
their  elephants.  The  country  people  were  pouring  into  the  city 
by  thousands,  laden  with  their  produce,  and  the  bazaars  of  fruit 
and  vegetables,  which  seemed  interminable,  were  constantly 
thronged.  At  first  I imagined  it  must  b^  some  unusual  occa- 
sion which  had  called  such  numbers  of  the  inhabitants  into  the 
streets ; but  I was  told  that  they  were  always  as  crowded  as 
then,  and  that  the  population  of  Lucknow  is  estimated  at  800,- 
000  inhabitants ! It  is,  therefore,  one  of  the  most  populous 
cities  in  Asia,  and  may  be  ranked  with  Paris  and  Constantino- 
ple, in  Europe.  Its  length  is  seven  miles,  the  extreme  breadth 
four  miles,  and  the  central  part  is  very  densely  populated. 

10 


218  INDIA,  CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 

After  breakfasting  at  the  bungalow,  I called  upon  Col  Sleo- 
man,  the  East  India  Company’s  Resident,  whose  works  on  In- 
dia, combined  with  his  labors  for  the  extirpation  of  the  Thugs 
or  Stranglers,  have  made  his  name  known  in  Europe  and 
America.  The  R,esidency  is  a large  and  lofty  building,  deserv- 
ing the  name  of  a palace,  and  surrounded  by  beautiful  gardens. 
I had  no  letter  to  Col.  Sleeman,  but  took  the  liberty  of  asking 
his  advice  relative  to  the  things  best  worth  seeing  in  Lucknow, 
as  I had  but  a day  to  spare.  Nothing  could  exceed  the  prompt 
and  kind  response  of  that  gentleman.  He  immediately  order- 
ed his  carriage,  and  as  he  was  personally  occupied,  sent  one  of 
his  native  secretaries  to  conduct  me  through  the  city.  I en- 
tered the  bazaar  again  in  grand  style,  with  postilion,  grooms  and 
footmen,  who  ran  in  advance  to  clear  a way,  and  obliged  even 
the  elephants  to  stand  on  one  side.  Nevertheless  the  streets 
were  so  densely  crowded,  that  we  proceeded  very  slowly.  Af- 
ter threading  the  masses  of  the  populace  for  about  a mile  and  a 
half,  between  rows  of  three-story  native  houses,  mosques,  and 
caravanserais,  we  reached  what  appeared  to  be  the  heart  of  the 
city.  A spacious  gateway  spanned  the  street,  over  which  a for 
est  of  tall  minarets  and  gilded  domes  rose  in  the  distance. 
Passing  through  the  arch,  we  entered  an  open  square,  with  a 
large  mosque  and  hospital  on  the  left  side,  and  a magnificent 
gate  of  white  marble  beyond.  This  is  called  the  Roomee  Der- 
wazee  or  Constantinople  Gate,  from  an  idea  that  it  is  copied 
from  a gate  in  that  city,  but  I have  no  recollection  of  any  gate 
there  which  even  remotely  resembles  it. 

After  passing  the  Roomee  Derwazee,  I was  startled  by  the 
jinexpected  splendor  of  the  scene.  I was  in  the  centre  of  a 
group  of  tombs,  mosques  and  pavilions,  all  of  which  were  of 


THE  IMAMBARRA. 


219 


marWe  or  covered  with  white  stucco,  and  surmounted  with 
swelling  Oriental  domes,  which  shone  like  solid  gold — fitting 
crowns  to  the  slender  arches,  and  the  masses  of  Saracenic  fili- 
gree and  fretwork,  from  which  they  sprang.  A huge  stone 
tank,  with  flights  of  steps  descending  into  it  on  all  sides,  occu- 
pied the  foreground  of  the  picture.  Around  its  hanks,  and  be- 
tween the  dazzling  pavilions,  ran  a boskage  of  roses  in  full 
bloom,  in  the  midst  of  which  a few  tall  palms  shot  up  into  the 
sunshine.  It  was  nearly  noon,  and  the  sun,  now  almost  vertical, 
poured  such  an  unrelieved  glare  upon  the  scene,  that  my  eyes 
were  not  strong  enough  to  endure  it  for  more  than  two  or  three 
minutes. 

On  the  left  was  the  gate  of  the  Imambarra,  or  tomb  of 
Azuf  ed-Dowlah,  one  of  the  former  Nawabs  of  Oude,  and  here 
the  carriage  drew  up.  I alighted,  and  entered  a quadrangle 
surrounded  by  the  same  dazzling  white  architecture,  with  gild- 
ed domes  blazing  against  the  intense  blue  of  the  sky.  The  en- 
closed space  was  a garden,  in  which  stood  two  beautiful  mauso- 
leums of  marble.  Several  feeble  fountains  played  among  the 
flowers,  and  there  was  a long  pool  in  the  midst,  with  a bridge  over 
it,  and  grotesque  wooden  figures  of  sepoys,  of  the  size  of  life, 
standing  guard  at  each  end.  Scattered  about  the  garden  were 
also  several  copies  in  plaster  of  classical  statues,  and  one  in 
marble  of  Actaeon  and  his  hounds.  Although  Lucknow  is  a 
tharoughly  Moslem  city,  most  of  the  inhabitants,  as  well  as 
the  royal  family,  belong  to  the  sect  of  Sheeahs — the  descendants 
of  the  partisans  of  Ali — who  do  not  scruple  to  make  pictures  or 
models  of  living  things.  This  is  a cause  of  great  annoyance  and 
sorrow  to  the  Sonnees,  or  orthodox  Mussulmen,  who  hold  it  to 
be  a sin  in  the  sight  of  God.  The  idea  originated,  no  doubt 


220 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


in  the  iconoclastic  zeal  of  the  Prophet  and  his  immediate  sue- 
cessors. 

On  ascending  the  marble  steps  leading  to  the  edifice  at  the 
bottom  of  the  garden,  I imagined  for  a moment  that  I beheld 
a manufactory  of  chandeliers.  Through  the  open  marble  arch- 
es nothing  else  was  at  first  visible.  The  whole  building  was 
hung  with  them — immense  pyramids  of  silver,  gold,  prismatic 
crystals  and  colored  glass — and  where  they  were  too  heavy 
to  be  hung,  they  rose  in  radiant  piles  from  the  floor.  In  the 
midst  of  them  were  temples  of  silver  filigree,  eight  or  ten  feet 
high,  and  studded  with  cornelians,  agates  and  emeralds.  These 
were  the  tombs.  The  place  was  a singular  jumble  of  precious 
objects.  There  were  ancient  banners  of  the  Nawabs  of  Oude, 
heavy  with  sentences  from  the  Koran,  embroidered  in  gold ; 
gigantic  hands  of  silver,  covered  with  talismanic  words ; sacred 
shields,  studded  with  the  names  of  God ; swords  of  Khorassan 
steel,  lances  and  halberds ; the  turbans  of  renowned  command- 
ers ; the  trappings  of  the  white  horse  of  Nasr  ed-Deen,  mount- 
ed on  a wooden  effigy ; and  several  pulpits  of  peculiar  sanctity. 
I had  some  difficulty  in  making  out  a sort  of  centaur,  with  a 
human  head  eyes  of  agate,  a horse’s  body  of  silver,  and  a pea- 
cock’s tail,  but  was  solemnly  informed  that  it  was  a correct  re- 
presentation of  the  beast  Borak,  on  which  the  Prophet  made 
his  journey  to  Paradise.  The  bridle  was  held  by  two  dumpy 
angels,  also  of  silver,  and  on  each  side  stood  a tiger  about  five 
feet  long  and  made  of  transparent  blue  glass.  These,  I was 
told,  came  from  Japan. 

I had  some  difficulty  in  believing  that  this  curiosity  shop 
was  the  tomb  of  the  Poet-King,  Azuf  ed-Dowlah ; but  so  it 
was.  The  decorations  are  principally  due  to  the  taste  of  the 


SPECULATION  IN  OUDE. 


221 


present  king  who  is  silly  almost  to  imbecility,  and  pays  the 
most  absurd  sums  for  bis  chandeliers  and  glass  tigers.  The  two 
finest  chandeliers  cost  him  $50,000  each ; but  it  is  not  to  be 
supposed  that  all  this  money  went  into  the  pocket  of  the  mer- 
chant. The  Grand-Vizier,  and  other  officers  of  Court,  had  their 
shares,  down  to  the  eunuchs.  The  King  gave  a small  garden- 
palace  to  one  of  his  wives  not  long  ago.  A wall  was  necessary, 
to  screen  a part  of  the  garden  from  the  view  of  the  public,  and  a 
mason  was  called  upon  to  undertake  the  work.  On  being  asked 
to  state  the  cost  he  at  first  said  100,000  rupees,  but,  calcu- 
lating afterwards,  that  of  this  sum  the  Grand-Vizier  would 
keep  the  half,  the  Minister  of  the  Treasury  20,000  rupees,  and 
various  other  privileged  bloodsuckers  a proportionate  share, 
while  the  building  of  the  wall  would  actually  cost  5,000  ru- 
pees, he  gave  up  the  contract,  as  a losing  job ! No  description 
can  fully  illustrate  the  corruption  of  the  Court  of  Oude.  It  is 
a political  ulcer  of  the  most  virulent  kind,  and  there  is  no  rem- 
edy but  excision,  tor  the  sake  of  Humanity,  the  East  India 
Company  would  be  fully  justified  in  deposing  the  monarch 
and  bringing  the  kingdom  under  its  own  rule. 

Returning  through  the  Constantinople  Gate,  I entered  the 
large  building  adjacent,  which  was  formerly  a hospital,  and 
still  contains  the  tomb  of  its  royal  founder.  Its  architecture 
is  purer  than  that  of  the  Imambarra.  The  proportions  of  the 
halls  are  admirable,  and  the  deep  embroidered  arches  of  the  por- 
tico have  the  finest  effect.  Adjoining  this  edifice  is  a mosque 
built  upon  a lofty  platform  of  masonry.  It  is  an  ambitious 
work,  but  falls  behind  those  of  Delhi,  and  the  minarets  are  so 
large  as  to  be  out  of  all  proportion.  On  the  return  to  CoL 
Sleeman’s,  I pass^'d  under  the  walls  of  an  old  palace,  which 


222 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


were  lined  with  massive  buttresses.  I was  told  that  it  is  used 
as  a retreat  for  the  wives  of  former  kings. 

Capt.  Sleeman  (the  Resident’s  nephew),  who  has  charge 
of  suppressing  the  Dacoits,  or  organized  robher-hands  of  India, 
took  me  upon  the  flat  roof  of  the  Residency,  whence  there  is  a 
fine  panorama  of  Lucknow.  Two-thirds  of  the  city  are  as 
completely  buried  in  foliage  as  the  suburbs  of  Damascus.  To  the 
east,  at  a short  distance,  was  the  king’s  new  palace,  where  he  at 
present  resides — a line  of  white  walls  and  terraces,  about  half  a 
mile  in  length,  and  topped  with  a mass  of  gilded  towers  and 
domes.  Permission  to  visit  it  is  not  given  without  application 
two  or  three  days  previous,  so  that  I was  obliged  to  be  content 
with  an  outside  view.  Near  it  is  the  palace  of  Feroze  Buksh, 
another  cluster  of  gilded  domes,  and  in  the  distance  the  marble 
tower  of  the  Martiniere.  This  is  a college  founded  by  General 
Martine,  a French  adventurer,  who  came  out  to  India  as  a com- 
mon soldier,  entered  the  service  of  the  Kin^  of  Oude,  and  died 
a millionnaire.  The  building,  which  is  of  marble,  and  in  a style 
of  architecture  resembling  nothing  on  Earth  (nor,  I should  hope, 
in  Heaven),  was  erected  by  him  during  his  lifetime,  as  a palace 
for  the  King.  The  latter,  however,  refused  to  take  it  off  his 
hands,  secretly  resolving  to  seize  upon  it  as  soon  as  the  old 
General  was  dead.  Martine,  who  knew  much  more  of  human 
nature  than  of  architecture,  determined  to  block  this  game  of 
the  King,  and  when  he  died,  had  himself  buried  in  a vault 
made  under  the  foundation  of  the  building,  where  he  still  lies, 
with  a company  of  soldiers  in  effigy,  keeping  guard  over  his  re- 
mains. No  Mussulman  will  sleep  in  a house  where  any  one  is 
buried  and  the  King  was  obliged  to  respect  the  General’s  will 


THE  DOG  AND  THE  ROSE-WATER. 


223 


wliich  devoted  the  building  to  a college,  under  the  name  of  the 
Martiniere. 

To  sucb  an  extent  are  the  Kings  of  Oude  plundered  that 
a French  cook,  who  spent  some  years  in  the  service  of  a former 
monarch,  is  reported  to  have  gone  home  with  a fortune  of 
$350,000.  It  was  recently  discovered  that  one  of  the  parasites 
of  the  Court  had  been  receiving  two  seers  (four  lbs.)  of  rose-water 
and  a jar  of  sweetmeats  daily  for  thirty  years — and  for  what 
service  ? The  father  of  the  present  King  was  annoyed,  thirty 
years  ago,  by  the  barking  of  a dog.  He  sent  for  the  owner, 
and  commanded  him  to  silence  the  animal.  “ Your  Majesty,” 
said  the  man,  “ nothing  will  stop  his  barking,  unless  he  has  two 
seers  of  rose-water  and  a jar  of  sweetmeats  given  him  every 
day.”  “ Take  them,  then,”  said  the  King,  “ only  let  us  have  no 
more  noise.”  The  knave  took  his  rose-water  and  sweetmeats 
daily,  and  had  lived  luxuriously  upon  the  proceeds  for  thirty 
years. 

The  present  King  is  even  more  foolish  and  credulous,  al- 
though he  has  received  a good  literary  education,  and  has  the 
Persian  poets  at  his  tongue’s  end.  Although  not  more  than  forty 
years  old,  his  excesses  have  already  reduced  him  to  a state  of 
impotence.  Nevertheless,  his  wives  and  eunuchs  flatter  him 
that  he  has  begotten  a large  number  of  children,  who  are  car- 
ried off  by  a demon  as  soon  as  they  are  born.  About  once  a 
week  (so  I was  informed)  the  Chief  Eunuch  rushes  into  his  pres- 
ence, exclaiming  in  great  apparent  joy,  “ 0 Lord  of  the  World, 
a son  is  born  unto  you ! ” “ Praise  be  to  God ! ” exclaims  the 
happy  King ; ‘‘  which  of  my  wives  has  betn  so  highly  honored  ? ’ 
The  eunuch  names  one  of  them,  and  the  King  rises  in  great 
haste  to  visit  her  and  behold  his  new  offspring,  But  sudden 


224 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


ly  cries  and  shrieks  resound  from  the  women’s  apartments.  A 
band  of  females  bursts  into  the  room,  shrieking  and  lamenting 
^ 0 great  King ! a terrible  demon  suddenly  appeared  amongst 
us.  He  snatched  your  beautiful  son  out  of  the  nurse’s  arms  and 
flew  through  the  window  with  a frightful  noise.”  And  so  this 
trick  is  repeated  from  week  to  week,  and  the  poor  fool  ,con 
tinually  laments  over  his  lost  children. 

Not  long  since  a Portuguese  mountebank  happened  to  heai 
of  this  delusion.  He  repaired  to  the  King,  told  him  that  he 
had  discovered  the  nature  of  the  demon  that  had  molested  him, 
and  would  destroy  him,  for  a certain  sum.  The  King  agreed 
to  the  terms,  and  in  a few  days,  the  people  of  Lucknow  were 
startled  by  seeing  a great  body  of  workmen  engaged  in  dig- 
ging trenches  in  a meadow  near  the  river.  After  several  days’ 
labor,  they  threw  up  a rude  fortification  of  earth,  in  the  centre 
of  which  they  buried  several  barrels  of  powder.  The  Por- 
tuguese declared  that  he  was  in  the  possession  of  charms,  which 
would  entice  the  demon  into  the  fort,  whereupon  the  train 
should  be  fired,  and  instantly  blow  him  to  atoms.  A favorable 
night  was  selected  for  the  operation,  and  the  inhabitants  of  the 
city  were  shaken  out  of  their  beds  by  a terrific  explosion,  fol- 
lowed by  a salvo  of  121  guns,  as  a peal  of  rejoicing  over  the 
slaughter  of  the  demon.  But  alas ! the  scattered  fragments  of 
the  fiend  reunited,  and  he  has  since  then  carried  off  nearly  a 
score  of  the  King’s  new-born  progeny. 

This  weakness  of  character,  it  may  readily  be  imagined, 
is  the  prime  cause  of  the  evils  under  wnich  Oude  is  groaning. 
The  Grand- Vizier  is  an  unprincipled  tyrant,  and  to  such  a de- 
gree of  resistance  have  the  people  been  driven,  that  the  reve- 
nues are  collected  yearly  with  cannon,  and  a large  armed  force 


MISRULE  IN  OUDE. 


225 


Oude  is  the  garden  of  India,  and  though  now  so  waste  and  ex- 
hausted, from  a long  course  of  spoliation,  yields  a revenue  of 
three  crores  of  rupees  ($15,000,000),  only  one  third  of  which 
reaches  the  King’s  hands.  The  rest  is  swallowed  up  hy  the  hand 
of  venal  sycophants  who  surround  him.  An  officer  who  knew 
Oude  in  the  reign  of  Saadet  Ali,  forty-five  years  ago,  told  me 
that  he  remembered  the  time  when  all  the  country  from  Luck- 
now to  Benares  bloomed  like  a garden  and  overflowed  with 
plenty.  Now  it  is  waste,  impoverished,  and  fast  relapsing  into 
jungle.  Thousands  of  people  annually  make  their  escape  over 
the  frontier,  into  the  Company’s  territories,  and  at  Cawnpore 
it  is  not  unusual  to  see  them  swimming  the  river  under  a vol- 
ley of  balls  from  their  pursuers.  Great  numbers  of  males  of 
the  lower  classes  enlist  as  sepoys,  in  the  Company’s  regiments, 
and  it  is  estimated  that  of  200,000  natives  from  all  parts  of 
India  who  now  serve  in  the  army,  40,000  are  from  Oude  alone. 

Nevertheless,  there  is  far  more  life,  gaiety  and  appearance 
of  wealth  in  Lucknow  than  any  other  native  city  in  India. 
This  is  principally  accounted  for  by  the  large  sums  that  flow 
into  the  city  from  other  quarters.  The  former  monarchs  of 
Oude,  fearful  of  revolutions  which  might  thrust  their  families 
from  the  succession,  were  in  the  habit  of  lending  large  sums  to 
the  East  India  Company,  at  an  interest  of  five  per  cent.,  for 
the  purpose  of  securing  some  property  for  their  posterity,  in 
case  of  trouble.  Of  late  years  the  Company  has  declined  to 
receive  any  more  such  loans,  but  still  continues  to  pay  interest 
on  £6,000,000.  At  present  many  of  the  rich  men  of  Oude  in- 
vest their  surplus  funds  in  the  Company’s  paper.  There  are 
besides  many  pensioners  of  the  Government  residing  in  Luck- 
now, and  it  is  estimated  that  in  addition  to  the  interest  paid,  120 
10* 


226 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


lacs  of  rupees  ($6,000,000),  come  into  Oude  yearly  from  the 
Company’s  territories. 

In  the  afternoon,  Capt.  Sleeman  kindly  offered  to  accom- 
pany me  on  a second  excursion  through  Lucknow.  We  were 
joined  by  one  of  his  friends,  and  mounted  on  three  of  the 
King’s  largest  elephants.  With  our  gilded  howdahs,  long  crim- 
son housings,  and  the  resplendent  dresses  of  the  drivers  and 
umbrella-holders  who  sat  behind  us,  on  the  elephants’  rumps, 
we  made  as  stately  a show  as  any  of  the  native  princes.  It  was 
the  fashionable  hour  for  appearing  in  public,  and,  as  we  entered 
the  broad  street  leading  to  the  Koomee  Derwazee,  it  was  filled 
with  a long  string  of  horses  and  elephants,  surging  slowly 
through  the  dense  crowd  of  pedestrians.  We  plunge  boldly 
into  the  tumult,  and,  having  the  royal  elephants,  and  footmen 
gifted  with  a ten-man  power  of  lungs,  make  our  way  without 
difficulty.  It  is  a barbaric  pageant  wholly  to  my  liking,  and 
as  I stare  solemnly  at  the  gorgeous  individuals  on  the  elephants 
that  pass  us,  I forget  that  I have  not  a turban  around  my 
brows.  We  duck  our  heads  involuntarily,  as  we  pass  through 
the  great  gates,  though  the  keystone  is  still  twenty  feet  above 
them. 

We  pass  the  Imambarra,  and  a long  array  of  other  buildings 
and  at  last  halt  in  front  of  the  new  mosque,  which  the  King’s 
mother  is  having  built.  It  is  large  and  picturesque,  but  shows 
a decline  in  architecture.  The  minarets  are  much  too  high. 
They  have  fallen  down  twice,  and  one  of  them  is  going  to  fall 
again.  The  domes  are  troubled  with  the  same  weakness,  and, 
although  the  devout  old  lady  has  already  spent  $5,000,000  on 
the  mosque,  I doubt  whether  she  will  ever  be  able  to  finish  it. 

Turning  back,  we  plunge  into  the  heart  of  the  city — into 


A SQUEEZE  OF  ELEPHANTS. 


227 


the  dart,  narrow,  crooked  old  streets  of  the  Lucknow  of  last 
century.  The  houses  are  three  stories  high,  projecting  sc 
that  the  eaves  almost  touch,  and  exhibit  the  greatest  variety 
in  their  design  and  ornament.  My  attention  is  divided 
between  looking  at  them,  and  watching  my  elephant.  The 
street  is  so  narrow  and  crooked  that  we  run  some  risk  of 
crushing  our  howdahs  against  the  second-story  balconies, 
but  the  beast,  with  his  little,  keen,  calculating  eye,  knows 
precisely  how  far  to  go  without  striking.  We  pass  several 
elephants  safely,  and  are  getting  accustomed  to  the  novel 
and  intricate  by-way,  when  up  comes  an  enormous  beast, 
ridden  by  a human  elephant,  in  a green  silk  robe.  The 
animal  looks  puzzled,  and  the  man  looks  sullen,  and  vouch- 
safes us  no  greeting.  He  is  a Cadi’s  secretary,  it  is  true, 
but  our  elephants,  being  royal,  take  precedence  of  his. 
Neither  beast  will  advance,  for  fear  of  wedging  themselves 
together.  At  last  my  driver  encourages  his  elephant;  he 
tells  him  to  press  close  against  the  wall  and  slip  past;  my 
howdah  shoots  under  a balcony,  but  I bend  profoundly  and 
escape  it.  We  press  through,  one  after  another,  and  the 
fat  gentleman  in  the  green  silk  gets  awfully  squeezed. 
Now  we  devote  oiir  attention  to  prying  into  the  second 
stories  of  the  houses,  but  the  windows  are  all  latticed,  and 
there  are  sparkles  through  the  lattices,  which  we  take  to 
be  the  flash  of  eyes. 

“ Here  is  the  gate  where  the  heads  of  malefactors  are 
exposed,”  says  one  of  my  companions,  and  I look  up  with 
a shuddering  expectancy,  thinking  to  see  a bloody  head  spiked 
over  the  arch.  But  there  is  none  at  present,  and  we  pass 
on  to  the  place  of  execution — a muddy  bank  overhanging 


228 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


a sewer,  filled  with  the  drainage  of  the  city.  Here  the 
heads  of  the  condemned  are  struck  off,  after  the  death- 
warrant  has  been  thrice  made  out  and  signed  by  the  king. 
This  is  a custom  peculiar  to  Oude,  and  wisely  adopted  tc 
prevent  the  ruler  from  shedding  blood  without  due  reflection. 
The  first  and  second  orders  which  the  executioner  receives 
are  disregarded,  and  the  culprit  is  not  slain  until  the  com- 
mand is  repeated  for  the  third  time. 

We  return  through  the  Choke,  the  main  street  of  the  old 
city,  after  having  penetrated  for  two  miles  into  its  depths. 
There  is  a crush  of  elephants,  but  the  street  has  a tolerable 
breadth,  and  no  accidents  happen.  We  are  on  a level  with 
the  second-story  balconies,  which  are  now  tenanted  (as  those 
in  the  Chandncy  Choke  of  Delhi)  by  the  women  of  scarlet, 
arrayed  in  their  flaunting  finery.  We  see  now  and  then  an 
individual  of  another  class,  which  I should  name  if  I dared — 
but  there  are  some  aspects  of  human  nature,  which,  from  a 
regard  for  the  character  of  the  race,  are  tacitly  kept  secret.  But 
see  ! we  have  again  emerged  into  the  broad  street  and  begin  to 
descend  the  slope  towards  the  river.  The  sun  is  setting,  and 
the  noises  of  the  great  city  are  subdued  for  the  moment.  The 
deep-green  gardens  lie  in  shadow,  but  all  around  us,  far  and 
near,  the  gilded  domes  are  blazing  in  the  yellow  glow.  The 
scene  is  lovely  as  the  outer  court  of  Paradise,  yet  what  decep- 
tion, what  crime,  what  unutterable  moral  degradation  fester 
beneath  its  surface ! 


CHAPTER  XVII 1. 


ALLAHABAD,  AND  A HINDOO  FESTIVAL. 

Retnm  to  Cawnpore — An  Accident— The  Eoad  to  Allahabad — Sensible  Pllgrimo— 
Morning— Beauty  of  Allahabad— The  American  Missionaries— The  Hindoo  Festival 
—The  Banks  of  the  Qanges — Hindoo  Devotees — ^Expounding  the  Vedas — The  Place 
of  Hair- A Pilgrim  Shorn  and  Fleeced— The  Place  of  Flags— Venality  of  the  Brah- 
mins— Story  of  the  Contract  for  Grass — Junction  of  the  Ganges  and  Jumna — Bathing 
of  the  Pilgrims — A Sermon — ^Tho  Mission — Subterranean  Temple — The  Fort  of 
Allahabad. 

I LEFT  Lucknow  at  nine  o’clock  on  the  evening  of  the  11th, 
in  the  garree  for  Cawnpore.  I was  unable  to  sleep,  from 
toothache,  and  was  lying  with  shut  eyes,  longing  for  the 
dawn,  when  there  was  a jar  that  gave  me  a violent  thump  on 
the  head,  and  one  side  of  the  garree  was  heaved  into  the  air, 
but  after  a pause  righted  itself.  The  horse  started  off  at  full 
speed,  dragging  the  wreck  after  him,  but  was  soon  stopped, 
and  I jumped  out,  to  find  the  spring  broken,  and  the  hind 
wheels  so  much  injured  that  we  were  obliged  to  leave  the 
vehicle  in  the  road.  The  driver  had  no  doubt  fallen  asleep, 
and  the  horse,  going  at  his  usual  rapid  rate,  had  hurled  the 
garree  against  a tree.  Leaving  the  groom  to  take  charge  of 
the  remains,  the  driver  took  the  mail-bag  on  his  head,  my  car 
pet-bag  in  his  hand,  and  led  the  horse  toward  Cawnpore.  1 


230 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


followed  him,  and  we  tiudged  silently  forwards  for  an  hour 
and  a half,  when  we  reached  the  Ganges,  at  daybreak.  It  was 
lucky  that  the  accident  happened  so  near  the  end  of  the  journey. 

The  same  afternoon  I left  Cawnpore  for  Allahabad,  in  a 
garree,  as  usual.  Still  the  same  interminable  plains,  though 
the  landscape  became  richer  as  I proceeded  southward,  except 
when  the  road  approached  the  Ganges,  where  there  are  fre 
quent  belts  of  sandy  soil,  worn  into  deep  gullies  by  the  rain. 
The  fields  of  barley  were  in  full  head,  the  mustard  in  blossom, 
and  the  flowers  of  the  mango-tree  were  beginning  to  open. 
The  afternoon  was  warm  and  the  road  very  dusty.  I passed 
the  town  of  Futtehpore  at  dusk,  but  experienced  an  hour’s 
delay  during  the  night,  which  I was  at  a loss  to  account  for 
until  I found  the  next  morning  that  the  driver  had  taken  two 
natives  on  the  roof  of  the  garree,  as  passengers  to  Allahabad. 
They  were  pilgrims  to  the  Festival,  and  were  thus  depriving 
themselves  of  the  greatest  merit  of  the  pilgrimage,  which 
consists  in  making  the  journey  on  foot.  There  is  now  quite 
a sharp  discussion  going  on  among  the  learned  pundits,  as  to 
whether  the  merit  of  a religious  pilgrimage  will  be  destroyed 
by  the  introduction  of  railroads.  That  railroads  will  be  built 
in  the  course  of  time,  is  certain ; that  thousands  of  pilgrims 
will  then  make  use  of  them,  is  equally  certain;  a prospect 
which  fills  the  old  and  orthodox  Brahmins  with  great  alarm. 

I passed  a dreary  night,  martyred  by  the  toothache. 
When  the  sun  rose  I saw  the  Ganges  in  the  distance,  and  the 
richness  and  beauty  of  the  scenery  betokened  my  approach  to 
Allahabad.  The  plain  was  covered  with  a deluge  of  the  richest 
grain,  fast  shooting  into  head,  and  dotted  wi^h  magnificent 
groves  of  neem  and  mango  trees  The  road  was  thronged 


BEAUTY  OF  ALLAURABAD. 


231 


NYith  pilgrims,  returning  from  the  Festival,  and  the  most  of 
them,  women  as  well  as  men,  carried  large  earthen  jars  of 
Ganges  water  suspended  to  the  ends  of  a pole  which  rested  on 
their  shoulders.  In  spite  of  the  toils  of  the  journey  and  the 
privations  they  must  have  undergone,  they  all  had  a com- 
posed, contented  look,  as  if  the  great  object  of  their  lives  had 
been  accomplished. 

In  two  hours  I reached  the  Allahabad  Cantonments,  but 
failing  to  find  the  residence  of  Mr.  Owen,  of  the  American 
Mission,  I directed  the  driver  to  take  me  to  the  hotel.  On 
the  way  we  passed  through  the  native  town,  which  abounds  in 
temples  and  shrines.  Flags  were  fiying  in  all  directions, 
drums  beating,  and  several  processions  could  be  discovered 
marching  over  the  broad  plain  which  intervenes  between  the 
town  and  the  fort.  The  day  was  gloriously  clear  and  balmy, 
and  the  foliage  of  the  superb  neem  and  tamarind  trees  that 
shade  the  streets,  sparkled  in  the  light.  I remembered  the 
story  of  the  Mohammedan  Conquerors,  who  were  so  enchanted 
with  the  beauty  of  the  country,  and  so  well  satisfied  with  the 
mild  and  peaceable  demeanor  of  the  inhabitants,  who  gave  up 
the  place  without  striking  a blow,  that  they  named  it  Allaha- 
bad— the  City  of  God.  Its  original  name  was  Priag,  a Hin- 
doo word  signifying  “ the  Junction,”  on  account  of  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Ganges  and  the  Jumna. 

The  first  face  I saw  at  the  hotel  was  that  of  a fellow- 
traveller  across  the  Desert,  whom  I had  last  seen  at  Suez. 
He  had  just  come  up  from  Calcutta,  on  his  way  to  Lahore. 
I saw  but  little  of  him,  as  Mr.  Owen  insisted  on  my  taking  a 
room  at  his  house,  where  I was  again  on  American  soil,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Jumna.  I have  rarely  passed  a day  more  agree 


232 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


ably  than  in  his  pleasant  family  circle,  which  was  enlarged 
in  the  evening  by  the  presence  of  his  colleagues,  the  Rev. 
Messrs.  Shaw  and  Hay.  The  American  Missionaries  in 
India,  wherever  I have  met  them,  were  to  me  what  the  Latin 
monks  in  Palestine  were,  but  not  like  the  latter,  with  a latent 
hope  of  reward.  They  are  all  earnest,  zealous  and  laborious 
men,  and  some  of  them,  among  whom  I may  mention  Mr. 
Owen,  and  Mr.  Warren,  of  Agra,  are  ripe  scholars  in  the 
Oriental  languages  and  literature. 

Mr.  Owen  had  an  appointment  to  preach  to  the  natives  in 
the  afternoon,  and  I accompanied  him  to  the  scene  of  the 
festival,  on  the  banks  of  the  Ganges.  The  climax  of  the  oc- 
casion was  past,  and  the  great  body  of  the  pilgrims  had  de 
parted  for  their  homes,  but  there  were  still  several  thousands 
encamped  in  and  around  the  town.  On  the  plain,  near  the 
Ganges,  stood  an  extempore  town,  consisting  of  streets  of 
booths,  kept  by  the  native  merchants,  who  took  care  of  their 
temporal  and  spiritual  welfare  at  the  same  time,  with  a dex- 
terity which  would  have  done  credit  to  a Yankee.  Upon 
mounting  a dyke  which  had  been  erected  to  restrain  the  water 
of  the  Ganges  during  inundations,  I again  beheld  the  Holy 
River  and  its  sandy  and  desolate  shores.  It  was  indeed  a 
cheerless  prospect — a turbid  flood  in  the  midst,  and  a hot, 
dreary  glare  of  white  sand  on  either  side.  The  bank  of  the 
river,  from  the  point  where  we  stood  to  its  junction  with  the 
Jumna — a distance  of  nearly  half  a mile — was  covered  with 
shrines,  flags,  and  the  tents  of  the  fakeers,  which  consisted 
merely  of  a cotton  cloth  thrown  over  a piece  of  bamboo. 
There  were  hundreds  of  so-called  holy  men,  naked  except  a sin- 
gle cotton  rag,  and  with  their  bodies  covered  with  ashes  or  a 


HINDOO  DEVOTEES EXPOUNDING  THE  VEDAS. 


23b 


yellow  powder,  which  gave  them  an  appearance  truly  hideous. 
Their  hair  was  long  and  matted,  and  there  was  a wild  gleam 
in  their  eyes  which  satisfied  me  that  their  fanatical  character 
was  not  assumed.  Many  of  them  were  young  men,  with  keen, 
spirited  faces,  but  the  same  token  of  incipient  monomania  in 
their  eyes.  Some  few  were  seated  on  the  ground,  or  in  the 
shade  of  their  rude  tents,  rapt  in  holy  abstraction,  but  the 
most  of  them  walked  about  in  a listless  way,  displaying  theii 
disgusting  figures  to  the  multitude. 

The  shrines,  of  which  there  were  great  numbers,  were  taw- 
dry affairs  of  tinsel  and  colored  paper,  with  coarse  figures  of 
Mahadeo,  Ganeish,  Hanuman  and  other  deities.  Many  were 
adorned  with  flowers,  and  had  been  recently  refreshed  with  the 
water  of  the  Ganges.  I was  struck  with  the  figure  of  an  old 
grey-bearded  saint,  who  was  expounding  the  Vedas  to  a Brah- 
min, who,  seated  cross-legged  under  a large  umbrella,  read  sen- 
tence after  sentence  of  the  sacred  writing.  The  old  felloTV 
showed  so  much  apparent  sincerity  and  satisfaction,  and  was  so 
fluent  in  his  explanations,  that  I was  quite  delighted  with  him. 
Indeed,  there  was  not  the  slightest  approach  to  levity  manifest- 
ed by  any  one  present. 

We  threaded  the  crowd  of  ghastly  Jogees,  Gosains  and 
other  ashy  fakeers,  to  the  Place  of  Hair- Cutting — an  enclosed 
spot,  containing  about  an  acre  and  a half  of  ground.  Here  the 
heads  and  beards  of  the  pilgrims  are  shorn,  a million  of  years  in 
Paradise  being  given  by  the  gods, for  every  hair  so  offered  up 
The  ground  within  the  enclosure  was  carpeted  with  hair,  and 
I am  told  that  on  great  occasions  it  is  literally  knee-deep. 
There  were  only  two  persons  undergoing  the  operation,  and  as 
I wished  to  inspect  it  more  closely,  I entered  the  enclosure. 


234 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


When  the  repugnance  which  the  Hindoos  have  toward  destroy 
ing  animal  life  is  understood,  the  reader  will  comprehend  that 
I did  not  venture  among  so  much  hair  without  some  hesitation. 
A fellow  with  a head  of  thick  black  locks  and  a bushy  beard 
had  just  seated  himself  on  the  earth.  We  asked  him  who  he 
was  and  whence  he  came.  He  was  a Brahmin  from  Futtehpore, 
who  had  made  a pilgrimage  from  Hurdwar,  where  he  had 
filled  a vessel  with  Granges  water,  which  he  was  now  taking  to 
pour  upon  the  shrine  of  Byznath,  beyond  Benares.  In  reward 
for  this  a Brahmin  who  was  standing  near  assured  us  that  ho 
would  be  born  a Brahmin  the  next  time  that  his  soul  visited 
the  earth.  The  barber  took  hold  of  a tuft  on  the  top  of  his 
head,  which  he  spared,  and  rapidly  peeled  off  flake  after  flake  of 
the  bushy  locks.  In  less  than  five  minutes  the  man’s  head  and 
face  were  smooth  as  an  infant’s,  and  he  was  booked  for  fifty 
thousand  million  years  in  Paradise.  But  the  change  thereby 
wrought  upon  his  countenance  was  most  remarkable.  Instead 
of  being  a bold,  dashing,  handsome  fellow,  as  he  at  first  ap- 
peared, his  physiognomy  was  mean,  spiritless,  and  calculated 
to  inspire  distrust.  I should  not  want  better  evidence  that 
Nature  gave  men  beards  to  be  worn,  and  not  to  be  shaven. 

As  soon  as  the  shearing  was  finished,  three  Brahmins  who 
had  been  hovering  around  carried  the  subject  off  to  be  fleeced 
They  were  sharp  fellows,  those  Brahmins,  and  I warrant  they 
bled  him  to  the  last  pice.  The  Brahmins  of  Allahabad  are  not 
to  be  surpassed  for  their  dexterity  in  obtaining  perquisites. 
They  have  apportioned  India  into  districts,  and  adjoining  the 
Place  of  Hair  they  have  their  Place  of  Flags,  where  there 
are  upwards  of  two  hundred  flags  sw-uiming  from  high  poles. 
The  devices  on  these  flags  represent  the  different  districts. 


STORY  OF  THE  CONTRACT  FOR  GRASS. 


235 


The  pilgrim  seeks  the  flag  of  his  district,  and  there  he  finds 
the  Brahmin  licensed  to  take  charge  of  him.  There  is  no  fixed 
fee,  but  every  man  is  taxed  to  the  extent  of  his  purse.  One 
of  the  Bajahs  of  Oude,  who  had  been  shorn  a short  time  pre- 
vious to  my  arrival,  gave  the  fraternity  six  elephants  and  the 
weight  of  a fat  infant  son  in  Cashmere  shawls  and  silver. 

In  justice  to  the  Brahmin  caste,  I should  remark  that 
those  who  serve  as  priests  in  the  temples  are  not  to  be  con- 
founded with  the  secular  Brahmins,  many  of  whom  are  fine 
scholars,  and  enlightened  and  liberal-minded  men.  But  the 
priesthood  is  perhaps  more  corrupt  than  any  similar  class 
in  the  world.  They  do  not  even  make  a pretence  of  hon- 
esty. An  acquaintance  of  mine  bargained  with  some  Alla- 
habad Brahmins  to  supply  him  with  grass  for  thatching  his 
house.  They  showed  him  a satisfactory  sample,  and  he  agreed 
to  pay  them  a certain  price.  But  when  the  grass  came  it  was 
much  worse  than  the  sample,  and  he  refused  to  pay  them  full 
price.  The  matter  was  referred  for  arbitration  to  three  other 
Brahmins,  who  decided  in  the  gentleman’s  favor.  But  the  con- 
tractors declared  they  would  have  the  full  price.  “ Why  do  you 
not  bring  me  good  grass,  then  ? ” said  the  gentleman.  “ Because 
we  have  it  not,”  they  answered.  “ Why  then  did  you  send 
me  such  a sample  ? ” “ To  make  you  contract  with  us,”  was 

the  cool  reply.  “ You  may  take  the  quarrel  into  Court,  for  I 
shall  not  pay  you,”  declared  the  gentleman.  “We  shall  not 
go  to  Court,  for  we  shall  certainly  lose  the  cause,”  said  they ; 
“ but  we  will  have  the  money.”  Thereupon  they  went  to  the 
carpenter  who  was  building  the  house,  and  who  was  a Hindoo, 
related  the  case,  and  called  upon  him  to  make  up  the  full  sum. 
The  astonished  victim  declared  that  it  was  no  afiair  of  his.  “ Na 


236 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN 


matter,”  said  they,  “ if  you  don’t  pay  it,  one  of  us  will  commit 
suicide,  and  his  blood  will  be  upon  your  head” — this  being  the 
most  terrible  threat  which  can  be  used  against  a Hindoo 
The  carpenter  still  held  out,  but  when  the  oldest  of  the  Brah« 
mins  had  decided  to  kill  himself,  and  was  uncovering  his  body 
for  the  purpose,  the  victim  was  obliged  to  yield,  and  went  off  in 
tears  to  borrow  the  money.  Truly,  this  thing  of  caste  is  the 
curse  of  India. 

Passing  the  Place  of  Flags,  where  the  streamers  were  *of 
all  imaginable  colors  and  devices,  we  descended  to  the  holiest 
spot,  the  junction  of  the  Ganges  and  Jumna.  According  to  the 
Hindoos,  three  rivers  meet  here,  the  third  being  the  Seriswat- 
tee,  which  has  its  source  in  Paradise,  and  thence  flows  subterra- 
neously  to  the  Ganges.  There  were  a number  of  bamboo  plat 
forms  extending  like  steps  to  the  point  where  the  muddy  waters 
of  the  Ganges  touched  the  clear  blue  tide  of  the  Jumna.  [In 
this  union  of  a clear  and  a muddy  stream,  forming  one  great 
river,  there  is  a curious  resemblance  to  the  Mississippi  and  Mis- 
souri, and  to  the  Blue  and  White  Niles.]  Several  boats,  contain- 
ing flower-decked  shrines,  with  images  of  the  gods,  were  moored 
on  the  Jumna  side,  the  current  of  the  Ganges  being  exceedingly 
rapid.  The  natives  objected  to  our  getting  upon  the  platforms, 
as  they  were  kana^  or  purified,  and  our  touch  would  defile  them, 
so  we  stood  in  the  mud  for  a short  time,  and  witnessed  the 
ceremony  of  bathing.  The  Hindoos  always  bathe  with  a cloth 
around  the  loins,  out  of  respect  for  the  Goddess  Gungajee. 
There  were  about  a dozen  in  the  water,  bobbing  up  and  down, 
bowing  their  heads  to  the  four  points  of  the  compass,  and  mut- 
tering invocations.  Others,  standing  upon  the  bank,  threw 
wreaths  of  yellow  flowers  upon  the  water.  On  our  return  to 


THE  AMERICAN  MISSION. 


237 


the  encampment  of  the  faheers,  we  visited  a pit-shiine  of  Ha- 
numan,  the  monkey  god,  who  helped  Rama  in  his  conquest  of 
Cejlon.  He  lies  on  his  hack  in  a deep  hole,  and  is  a hideous 
monster,  about  twelve  feet  long,  carved  out  of  a single  piece  of 
stone.  Several  natives  were  prostrating  themselves  in  the  dust, 
around  the  mouth  of  the  pit. 

Mr.  Owen  preached  for  half  an  hour  in  the  mission  tent 
among  the  fakeers.  A number  of  natives  flocked  around,  list- 
ening attentively,  and  made  no  disturbance,  though  two  or  three 
of  them  were  Jogees  of  the  most  fanatical  kind.  They  were 
apparently  interested,  but  not  touched.  Indeed,  so  deeply  root- 
ed are  these  people  in  their  superstitions,  that  to  awake  a true 
devotional  feeling  among  them  must  be  a matter  of  great  diffi- 
culty. In  the  evening  I attended  Divine  service  in  the  Mission 
Church,  and  was  much  pleased  with  the  earnest  and  serious  air 
of  the  native  converts.  They  were  all  neatly  dressed  and  be- 
haved with  the  utmost  propriety.  The  Missionaries  have  in- 
structed four  natives,  who  were  ordained  as  ministers,  under 
the  names  of  Paul,  Thomas,  George  and  Jonas.  The  mission 
school  was  attended  by  three  hundred  pupils,  the  most  of  whom 
were  natives,  and  all  received  religious  instruction.  There  is 
also  a printing  office  under  the  charge  of  the  Eev.  Mr.  Hay,  in 
which,  during  the  previous  year,  six  millions  of  pages,  in  the 
Hindoo,  Urdoo,  and  Persian  languages  had  been  printed. 
The  Lieut.  Governor  of  the  Northwest,  during  his  visit  to 
Allahabad,  spoke  in  public  in  the  highest  terms  of  the  labors 
of  the  American  Missionaries. 

On  my  way  to  the  fort  the  next  morning,  with  Mr.  Owen, 
we  met  one  of  the  Ameers  of  Scinde,  who  was  a prisoner  at 
large  in  Hindostan.  In  the  fort  three  princes  of  Nepaul  were 


238 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


kept  in  very  strict  confinement,  on  account  of  having  been  en* 
gaged  in  a conspiracy.  The  most  remarkable  thing  in  the  fort 
is  a subterranean  temple,  evidently  of  great  antiquity.  It 
consists  of  a single  low  hall,  supported  by  square  pillars,  and 
contains  many  figures  of  Mahadeo  in  niches  around  the  walls; 
and  a quantity  of  lingams  scattered  over  the  fioor.  There  is  a 
narrow  passage  issuing  from  it  which  has  not  been  explored. 
Some  of  the  Brahmins  say  it  leads  to  Benares,  and  others  to 
Hell.  In  the  centre  of  the  fort  stands  a column  of  red  sand- 
stone, resembling  the  iron  pillar  at  Delhi,  and  with  an  inscrip- 
tion in  the  Pali  character.  The  arsenal,  which  occupies  part 
of  the  zenana  of  the  Emperor  Akbar,  is  the  largest  in  India. 
In  other  respects  the  fort  is  not  remarkable,  though,  having 
been  repaired  by  the  English,  it  is  in  better  condition  to  stand 
an  attack  than  the  immense  shells  which  tower  over  Agra  and 
Delhi. 


CH APT  EK  XIX. 

THE  HOLY  CITY  OF  INDIA. 

C rossing  the  Ganges — Pilgrims  Eeturning  Horae — Vagaries  of  the  Horses — Benares — 
Prof,  Hall— The  Holy  City— Its  Sanctity— The  Sanscrit  College— Novel  Plan  cf 
Education — Village  of  Native  Christians — The  Streets  of  Benares — Sacred  Bulls— 
Their  Sagacity  and  Cunning — The  Golden  Pagoda — Hindoo  Architecture — Worship 
of  the  Lingam — ^Temple  of  the  Indian  Ceres — The  Banks  of  the  Ganges — Bathing 
Devotees— Preparations  for  Departure. 

At  noon,  on  Monday,  the  14th,  I left  the  hospitable  roof  of 
Mr.  Owen,  at  Allahabad.  On  reaching  the  Ganges,  I found  the 
drawbridge  open,  and  a string  of  upward  bound  vessels  passing 
through.  There  were  thirty-nine  in  all,  and  so  slowly  were  they 
towed  against  the  stream,  that  full  two  hours  elapsed,  and  I 
still  sat  there  in  the  heat,  contemplating  the  white  and  glaring 
sand-flats  of  the  opposite  shore.  There  was  an  end  of  it  at 
last ; my  garree  was  pushed  across,  and  over  the  sands,  by  a 
crowd  of  eager  coolies,  and  having  attained  the  hard,  mac- 
adamized road,  shaded  by  umbrageous  peepul  and  neem  trees, 
I whirled  away  rapidly  toward  Benares.  My  road  lay  along 
the  northern  bank  of  the  Ganges,  through  a very  rich  and 
beautiful  country.  The  broad  fields  of  wheat  and  barley  just 
coming  into  head,  were  picturesquely  broken  by  “ topes  ” of 


240 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


the  dark  mango  or  the  feathery  tamarind,  and  groves  of  the 
hrah  palm.  It  was  a land  of  harvest  culture,  with  all  the 
grace  of  sylvan  adornment  which  distinguishes  a park  of  plea- 
sure. 

The  road  was  thronged  with  pilgrims  returning  from  the 
great  mela^  or  fair,  of  Allahabad.  During  the  afternoon  I 
passed  many  thousands,  who  appeared  to  be  of  the  lowest  and 
poorest  castes  of  the  Hindoos.  They  all  carried  earthen  jars 
filled  with  the  sacred  water  of  the  Junction  (of  the  Ganges 
and  Jumna),  which  they  were  taking  to  pour  upon  the  shrines 
of  Benares  or  Byznath.  At  the  stations  where  I changed 
horses,  they  crowded  around  the  garree,  begging  vociferously : 
“ 0 great  Being,  an  alms  for  Shiva’s  sake  ! ” One  half-naked, 
dark-eyed  boy  of  ten  years,  accosted  me  in  fluent  Arabic,  ex- 
claiming : “ 0 great  lord,  may  Peace  repose  upon  your  turban ! ” 
with  such  a graceful  and  persuasive  air  that  he  did  not  need  to 
ask  twice.  But  for  the  others,  it  was  necessary  to  be  both  blind 
and  deaf,  for  there  was  no  charm  in  the  serpent-armed  Destroyer 
to  extort  what  had  been  given  in  the  sacred  name  of  Peace. 
As  night  approached,  the  crowds  thickened,  and  the  yells  of 
my  driver  opened  a way  through  their  midst  for  the  rapid 
garree.  They  moved  in  a cloud  of  dust,  of  their  own  raising, 
and  I had  no  comfort  until  the  darkness  obliged  them  to  halt 
by  the  roadside  and  around  the  villages,  after  which  the  atmos- 
phere became  clearer,  and  the  road  was  tolerably  free  from 
obstruction. 

The  horses,  however,  gave  me  no  peace,  and  every  change, 
at  the  relay  stations,  seemed  to  be  for  the  worse.  After  balk- 
ing at  the  start,  they  would  dash  off  in  fury,  making  the  body 
of  the  garree  swing  from  side  to  side  at  every  bound,  till  a crash 


VAGARIES  OF  THE  HORSES. 


241 


of  some  kind  appeared  inevitable.  One  of  these  careers  was 
throuofh  a long  and  crowded  village,  in  which  a market  was  be- 
ing  held.  I did  not  count  how  many  times  my  flying  wheels 
grazed  the  piles  of  earthenware,  and  the  heaps  of  grain  and 
vegetables,  but  I know  that  there  were  screams  of  alarm,  ges- 
ticulations, fright  and  confusion,  from  one  end  of  the  village  to 
the  other,  and  how  we  ran  the  gauntlet  without  leaving  a wake 
of  ruin  behind  us,  is  a mystery  which  I cannot  explain.  I 
gradually  became  too  weary  to  notice  these  aberrations  of  the 
propelling  force,  and  sinking  down  into  the  bottom  of  the  gar- 
ree,  fell  into  a sleep  from  which  I was  awakened  at  midnight 
by  the  driver’s  voice.  I looked  out,  saw  a large  Gothic  church 
before  me,  in  the  moonlight,  and  knew  by  that  token  that  the 
goal  was  reached. 

The  next  morning  I called  upon  my  countryman,  IMr.  Fitz- 
Edward  Hall,  to  whom  I had  letters,  and,  according  to  Indian 
custom,  immediately  received  the  freedom  of  his  bungalow. 
Mr.  Hall,  who  is  a native  of  Troy,  New  York,  is  Professor  of 
Sanscrit  in  the  Sanscrit  College  at  Benares,  and  enjoys  a high 
and  deserved  reputation  throughout  India  for  his  attainments, 
not  only  in  the  classic  language  of  the  Brahmins,  but  also  in 
the  Hindoo  and  Ur  dee  tongues.  With  his  assistance  I was 
enabled  to  take  a hasty  but  very  interesting  survey  of  Be- 
nares, within  the  two  days  to  which  my  stay  was  limited. 

Benares,  the  Holy  City  of  the  Hindoos,  and  one  of  the  most 
ancient  in  India,  lies  upon  the  northern  bank  of  the  Ganges, 
at  the  point  where  it  receives  the  waters  of  the  two  small  trib- 
utaries, the  Burna  and  Arsee^  from  whose  united  names  is  de- 
rived that  of  the  town.  All  junctions  of  other  rivers  with 
the  Ganges  are  sacred,  but  that  of  the  Jumna  and  the  invisible 
11 


242  INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 

Seriswattee  at  Allahabad,  surpasses  all  otheis  in  holinesa 
Nevertheless,  Benares,  from  having  been  the  spot  where  Maha- 
deo  (if  I am  not  mistaken),  made  his  last  avatar ^ or  incarnate 
appearance  on  the  earth,  is  so  peculiarly  sanctified  that  all  per- 
sons who  live  within  a circuit  of  five  miles — even  the  abhorred 
Mussulman  and  the  beef-eating  English — go  to  Paradise, 
whether  they  wish  it  or  no.  According  to  the  gospel  of  the 
Brahmins,  the  city  and  that  portion  of  territory  included  with- 
in the  aforesaid  radius  of  five  miles,  is  not,  like  all  the  rest  of  the 
earth’s  bulk,  balanced  upon  the  back  of  the  great  Tortoise,  but  up 
held  upon  the  points  of  Shiva’s  trident.  In  this  belief  they  boldly 
affirmed  that  though  all  other  parts  of  the  world  might  be 
shaken  to  pieces,  no  earthquake  could  affect  the  stability  of 
Benares — until  1828,  when  without  the  least  warning  towers 
and  temples  were  thrown  down,  hundreds  of  persons  buried  in  the 
wreck,  and  half  built  quays  and  palaces  so  split  and  sunken, 
that  the  boastful  builders  left  off  their  work,  which  stands  at 
this  day  in  the  same  hideous  state  of  ruin.  This  mundane 
city,  however  (they  say),  is  but  a faint  shadow,  a dim  reflection 
of  the  real  Benares,  which  is  built  upon  a plain  half-way  be- 
tween Earth  and  Heaven. 

The  English  cantonments  encircle  the  old  Hindoo  city. 
Owing  to  the  deep,  dry  beds  of  the  small  rivers,  scarring  the 
rather  arid  level  which  it  covers,  the  settlement  has  not  the 
home-like,  pleasing  features  of  others  in  Hindostan.  There  are 
a few  handsome  private  mansions,  a spacious  church,  and  the 
new  Sanscrit  College,  which  is  considered  the  finest  modern 
edifice  in  India.  To  those  who  are  familiar  with  the  East  In- 
dia Company’s  efforts  in  this  line,  such  an  opinion  will  not 
raise  very  high  expectations.  The  College  is  o Gothic  cross — 


THE  SANSCRIT  COLLEGE. 


243 


a reminiscence  of  Oxford,  and  beautiful  as  it  is  in  many  re* 
spects,  we  should  prefer  somefthing  else,  to  project  against  a 
background  of  palms  and  tamarinds.  It  is  built  of  the  soft  rose- 
colored  sandstone  of  Chenar,  and  the  delicate  beauty  of  its  but- 
tresses and  pinnacles,  wrought  in  this  material,  make  us  regret 
that  the  architect  had  not  availed  himself  of  the  rich  stores  of 
Saracenic  art,  which  the  mosques  and  tombs  of  the  Mogul  Em- 
perors afford  him.  Gothic  architecture  does  not,  and  never  can 
be  made  to  harmonize  with  the  forms  of  a tropical  landscape. 

The  plan  of  this  College  is  unique  and  has  of  late  been  the 
subject  of  much  criticism.  It  was  established  by  the  East  India 
Company  sixty-three  years  ago,  for  the  purpose  of  instructing  the 
children  of  Brahmins  in  the  Sanscrit  Philosophy  and  Litera- 
ture, and  since  the  construction  of  the  new  building,  the  Eng- 
lish College  has  been  incorporated  with  it.  The  Principal, 
Dr.  Ballantyne,  who  is  probably  the  profoundest  Sanscrit 
scholar  living,  has  taken  advantage  of  this  junction  to  set  on 
foot  an  experiment,  which,  if  successful,  will  produce  an  entire 
revolution  in  the  philosophy  of  the  Brahmins.  The  native  scholars 
in  the  English  College  are  made  acquainted  with  the  inductive 
philosophy  of  Bacon,  while  the  students  of  Sanscrit  take  as  a 
text-book  the  Nyaya  system,  as  it  is  called,  of  Guatama,  the 
celebrated  Hindoo  philosopher.  There  are  many  points  of  ap- 
proach in  these  two  systems,  and  Dr.  Ballantyne  has  been  led 
to  combine  them  in  such  a way  as  finally  to  place  the  student, 
who  commences  with  the  refined  speculations  of  Guatama,  up 
on  the  broad  and  firm  basis  of  the  Baconian  system.  The  lat- 
ter is  thus  prepared  to  receive  the  truths  of  the  physical  sci 
ences,  a knowledge  of  which  must  gradually,  but  inevitably 
overthrow  the  gorgeous  enormities  of  his  religious  faith. 


244 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


After  visiting  Mr.  Reid,  tlie  Commissioner  of  the  District. 
Mr.  Hall  accompanied  me  to  the  Mission  establishment  of  the 
English  Church.  Here  there  is  a small  village  of  native 
Christians,  whom  I could  not  but  compassionate.  Cut  off  for 
ever  from  intercourse  with  their  friends,  denounced  as  un- 
clean and  accursed,  they  showed  their  isolation  by  a quiet,  pa 
tient  demeanor,  as  if  they  passively  sustained  their  new  faith, 
instead  of  actively  rejoicing  in  it.  There  was,  however,  a visi- 
ble improvement  in  their  households — greater  cleanliness  and 
order,  and  the  faces  of  the  women,  I could  not  but  notice, 
showed  that  the  teachings  of  the  missionaries  had  not  been 
lost  upon  them.  I wish  I could  have  more  faith  in  the  sin- 
cerity of  these  converts ; but  the  fact  that  there  is  a material 
gain,  no  matter  how  slight,  in  becoming  Christian,  throws  a 
doubt  upon  the  verity  of  their  spiritual  regeneration.  If  lack- 
ing employment,  they  are  put  in  the  way  of  obtaining  it ; if 
destitute,  their  wants  are  relieved;  and  when  gathered  into 
communities,  as  here,  they  are  furnished  with  dwellings  rent- 
free.  While  I cheerfully  testify  to  the  zeal  and  faithfulness 
of  those  who  labor  in  the  cause,  I must  confess  that  I have 
not  yet  witnessed  any  results  which  satisfy  me  that  the  vast 
expenditure  of  money,  talent  and  life  in  missionary  enterpri- 
ses, has  been  adequately  repaid. 

I spent  a day  in  the  streets  and  temples  of  Benares.  As  a 
city  it  presents  a more  picturesque  and  impressive  whole  than 
either  Delhi  or  Lucknow,  though  it  has  no  such  traces  of  ar- 
chitectural splendor  as  those  cities.  The  streets  are  narrow  and 
crooked,  but  paved  with  large  slabs  of  sandstone ; the  houses 
are  lofty,  substantial  structures  of  wood,  with  projecting  sto- 
ries, and  at  every  turn  the  eye  rests  upon  the  gilded  conical 


THE  SACRED  BULLS  OP  BENARES. 


245 


domes  of  a Hindoo  temple  or  the  tall  minaret  of  a Mohamme- 
dan mosque.  It  is  a wilderness  of  fantastic  buildings,  in  which 
you  are  constantly  surprised  hy  new  and  striking  combinations 
and  picturesque  effects  of  light  and  shade.  I should  have  been 
content  to  wander  about  at  random  in  the  labyrinth,  but  my 
companion  insisted  on  going  at  once  to  the  Golden  Pagoda,  or 
great  temple  of  Mahadeo,  and  thither  we  accordingly  went. 

The  narrow  streets  were  obstructed,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
temple,  with  numbers  of  the  sacred  bulls.  Benares  swarms 
with  these  animals,  which  are  as  great  a nuisance  to  the  place 
as  the  mendicant  friars  are  to  Home.  They  are  knowing  bulls, 
perfectly  conscious  of  their  sacred  character,  and  presume  up- 
on it  to  commit  all  sorts  of  depredations.  They  are  the  terror 
of  the  dealers  in  fruits  and  vegetables,  for,  although  not  al- 
ways exempted  from  blows,  no  one  can  stand  before  their  horns 
— and  these  they  do  not  scruple  to  use,  if  necessary  to  secure 
their  ends.  Sometimes,  on  their  foraging  expeditions,-  they 
boldly  enter  the  houses,  march  up  stairs  and  take  a stroll  on 
the  flat  roofs,  where  they  may  be  seen,  looking  down  with  a 
quiet  interest  on  the  passing  crowds  below.  From  these  emi- 
nences they  take  a survey  of  the  surrounding  country,  calcu- 
late its  resources,  and  having  selected  one  of  the  richest  spots 
*7ithin  their  circles  of  vision,  descend  straightway,  and  set  ofl 
on  a bee-line  for  the  place,  which  they  never  fail  to  find. 
When  the  fields  look  promising  on  the  other  side  of  the  Gan- 
ges, they  march  down  to  the  river  banks,  and  prevent  any 
passenger  from  going  on  board  the  ferry-boats  until  they  are 
permitted  to  enter.  They  cross  and  remain  there  until  the 
supplies  are  exhausted,  when  they  force  a passage  back  in  the 
same  manner.  The  gardens  of  the  English  residents  frequently 


246 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


puffer  from  their  depredations,  and  the  only  effectual  way  of 
guarding  against  them  is  to  yoke  them  at  once,  and  to  keep 
them  at  hard  labor  for  a day  or  two,  which  so  utterly  disgusts 
them  with  the  place  that  they  never  return  to  it.  It  is  also 
affirmed  that  they  carefully  avoid  the  neighborhood  of  those 
butchers  who  supply  the  tables  of  the  English,  having  observed 
that  some  of  their  brethren  disappeared  in  a mysterious  man- 
ner, after  frequenting  such  localities. 

We  were  fortunate  in  our  visit  to  the  Golden  Pagoda,  for 
it  was  one  of  the  god’s  festival  days,  and  the  court  and  shrines 
of  the  temple  were  thronged  with  crowds  of  worshippers.  The 
most  of  them  brought  wreaths  of  flowers  and  brass  vessels  of 
Ganges  water,  to  pour  upon  the  symbols  of  the  divinity.  The 
Pagoda  is  built  of  red  sandstone,  which  seems  to  have  grown 
darker  and  richer  by  age,  and  by  contrast  with  the  blazing 
gold  of  its  elaborate  spires,  has  a wonderfully  gorgeous  appear- 
ance. The  style  of  architecture  is  essentially  the  same  in  all 
Hindoo  temples.  The  body  of  the  structure  is  square  and 
massive,  enclosing  the  shrine  of  the  god.  From  a cornice  of 
great  breadth,  and  often  covered  with  sculptured  ornaments, 
rises  a tall  spire,  of  parabolic  outlines,  which  has  the  look  of 
being  formed  by  an  accretion  of  smaller  spires  of  similar  form. 
It  has  a general  resemblance  to  a pine-apple  or  rugged  pine- 
cone.  Where  the  temple  is  enclosed  within  a court,  as  in  this 
instance,  there  are  usually  a number  /)f  separate  shrines,  and 
the  clusters  of  spires  and  small  ornamental  pinnacles,  entirely 
covered  with  gilding,  form  a picture  of  barbaric  pomp  not  un- 
«\^orthy  the  reputed  wealth  “ of  Ormuz  or  of  Ind  ’*  The 
shrines  stood  within  dusky  recesses  or  sanctuaries,  lighted  by 
lamps  filled  with  cocoa-nut  oil.  They  were  in  charge  of 


WORSHIP  OF  THE  LINGAM. 


247 


priests  or  neophytes,  who  offered  us  wreaths  of  jasmine-blossoms, 
fragrant,  and  moist  with  Ganges  water.  I was  about  to  ac- 
cept some  of  them,  but  Mr.  Hall  requested  me  not  to  do  so,  as 
the  act  was  one  of  worship,  and  would  be  looked  upon  as 
showing  respect  to  Mahadeo. 

The  body  of  the  temple  abounded  with  stone  images  of  the 
lingam,  on  all  of  which  lay  wreaths  of  flowers,  while  the  wor  - 
shippers,  male  and  female,  poured  over  them  the  water  of  the 
sacred  river.  The  worship  was  performed  quietly  and  decently, 
with  every  outward  appearance  of  respect,  and  there  was 
nothing  in  the  symbols  themselves,  or  the  ceremonies,  to  give 
foundation  to  the  charges  which  have  been  made,  of  the  ob- 
scenity or  immorality  of  this  feature  of  the  Hindoo  faith. 
The  lingam  is  typical  of  the  creative  principle,  and  by  no 
means  to  be  confounded  with  the  Priapus  of  the  Greeks ; it 
rather  points  to  the  earlier  phallic  worship  of  the  Egyptians, 
with  which  it  was  no  doubt  coeval.  There  is  a profound  philo- 
sophical truth  hidden  under  the  singular  forms  of  this  worship, 
if  men  would  divest  themselves  for  a moment  of  a prudery  with 
regard  to  such  subjects,  which  seems  to  be  the  affectation  of  the 
present  age.  So  far  from  the  Hindoos  being  a licentious  peo- 
ple, they  are  far  less  so  than  the  Chinese  on  one  hand  or  the 
Mussulmen  on  the  other,  and  from  what  I can  learn,  they  are 
quite  as  moral  as  any  race  to  which  the  tropical  sun  has  given 
an  ardent  temperament  and  a brilliant  vitality  of  physical  life. 

I also  visited  the  temple  of  Unna-Purna — one  of  the 
names  of  the  Goddess  Bhavani,  the  Indian  Ceres.  It  stands 
on  a platform  of  masonry,  surrounded  by  a range  of  smaller 
shrines.  Hundreds  of  worshippers-r-mostly  peasants  from  the 
surrounding  country,  were  marching  with  a quick  step  around 


248 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


the  temple,  with  their  offerings  in  their  hands.  The  shrine  of 
the  Goddess  was  so  crowded  that  I had  some  difficulty  in  ob- 
taining a view  of  her  dusky  figure.  The  gay,  cheerful  aspect  of 
the  votaries,  with  their  garlands  of  flowers  and  brazen  urns 
of  water,  recalled  to  my  mind  the  Eleusinian  Festivals  of 
Greece,  and  the  words  of  Schiller’s  Hymn  flashed  into  my 
memory : 

“ Windet  zum  Kranze  die  goldenen  ,^ren  1 ” 

We  afterwards  went  down  to  the  Ganges,  and  wandered 
along,  past  shattered  palaces,  sunken  quays,  temples  thrown 
prostrate,  or  leaning  more  threateningly  than  the  belfry  of  Pisa, 
through  a wilderness  of  fantastic  and  magnificent  forms, 
watching  the  crowds  bathing  in  the  reeking  tanks,  or  the  open 
waters  of  the  river.  Broad  stone  ghauts  (flights  of  steps) 
cover.ed  the  bank,  rising  from  the  river  to  the  bases  of  stately 
buildings,  fifty  or  sixty  feet  above.  The  Ganges  here  makes  a 
broad  bend  to  the  northward,  and  from  these  ghauts,  near  the 
centre,  we  saw  on  either  hand  the  horns  of  the  crescent-shaped 
city,  with  their  sweeps  of  temples,  towers  and  minarets  glit- 
tering in  the  sun.  A crowd  of  budgerows^  or  river  boats, 
were  moored  all  along  the  bank,  or  slowly  moved,  with  white 
sails  spread,  against  the  current.  The  bathers  observed  the 
same  ceremonies  as  I had  noticed  at  Allahabad,  and  were  quite 
decorous  in  their  movements,  the  men  retaining  the  dhotee^  or 
cotton  cloth  twisted  about  the  loins.  The  Hindoos  are  great- 
ly shocked  by  the  English  soldiers,  who  go  naked  to  the  em- 
braces of  the  Goddess  Gunga, — not  from  that  circumstance  as 
connected  with  bathing,  but  as  a want  of  respect  to  the  holy 
stream.  I finished  my  visit  to  the  city,  by  taking  a boat  and 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  DEPARTURE. 


249 


slowly  floating  down  the  Ganges  in  front  of  it,  until  its  con* 
fused  array  of  palaces,  and  ghauts,  and  golden  spires  was  in- 
delibly daguerrotyped  upon  my  memory. 

The  necessity  of  reaching  Calcutta  in  time  for  the  Hong 
Kong  steamer  of  the  last  of  February,  obliged  me  to  refuse 
an  invitation  to  a week’s  tiger-hunting  in  the  jungles  of  the 
Yindhya  Hills — a prospect  which  I did  not  relinquish  without 
some  bitter  regrets.  I thereupon  made  preparations  for  mj 
last  “ garree-dawk  ” of  430  miles,  with  a pleasant  prospect  of 
a bruised  head  or  broken  bones,  for  after  so  many  narrow  es- 
capes, I decided  that  I either  bore  a charmed  life,  or  my  share 
of  injury  was  near  at  hand. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

THE  ROAD  FROM  BENARES  TO  CALCUTTA. 

Moonlight  on  the  Ganges — The  Unholy  River — Scenery  of  the  Plains — Egyptian 
Landscapes — Sasseram — Mountains  near  the  Soane  River — View  of  the  Ford- 
Crossing — The  Second  Day’s  Journey — The  Ilills  of  Behar — Meeting  with  an  Ac- 
quaintance— Wild  Table-Land — Sunset — A Coolie  Trick — The  Aborigines  of  India — 
Triumph  of  the  Red-haired  Lady — Horse  Gymnastics — The  Lady  Defeated — Mun- 
glepore — An  Eccentric  Night-Journey — The  City  of  Burdwau — Tropical  Scenery — 
Wrecked  on  the  Road — A Wrathful  Delay — Wrecked  again — Journey  by  Moonlight 
—Another  Wreck — An  Insane  Horse — The  Hoogly  River — Yet  Another  Accident— 
A Morning  Parade — The  End  of  “ Garree-Dawk.” 


It  was  nearly  midnight,  on  the  16th  of  February,  when  I 
left  a genial  company  of  Benares  residents,  and  started  on  my 
lonely  journey  to  Calcutta.  My  conductor  did  not  pass  through 
the  city,  but  drove  around  it  to  Raj  Ghaut,  five  miles  distant. 
The  horse  was  unharnessed,  the  carriage  dragged  down  the 
bank  by  coolies,  and  deposited  on  a ferry-boat.  I stretched 
myself  comfortably  on  the  mattress,  propped  against  a carpet- 
bag, and  looked  out  on  the  beautiful  moonlit  river.  No  spice- 
lamps,  set  afloat  by  amorous  Hindoo  maidens,  starred  the  sil- 
very smoothness  of  the  tide.  Alas,  I fear  that  the  poetry  of 
the  Indian  world  is  in  a rapid  decline.  There  was  no  sound 


THE  UNHOLY  RIVER. 


251 


during  our  passage  but  the  light  dip  of  oars,  and  the  shores^ 
faintly  touched  by  the  rays  of  the  setting  moon,  were  wrapped 
in  the  hush  of  slumber.  Thus,  with  a solemn,  scarcely  percep- 
tible motion,  I was  ferried  across  the  sacred  river. 

A plank  road  led  over  the  sandy  flats  on  the  opposite  side, 
and  my  horse  required  the  assistance  of  half  a dozen  coolies, 
to  reach  the  level  of  the  cultivated  land.  We  rolled  on  at  a 
lively  pace  through  the  night,  and  the  rising  sun  found  me  at 
Durgowtee,  thirty-six  miles  from  Benares..  Here  a handsome 
suspension  bridge  crosses  the  river  Karamnasa,  the  waters  of 
which  are  so  unholy  as  to  destroy  the  whole  merit  of  a jour- 
ney to  Benares,  should  they  touch  the  pilgrim’s  feet.  The 
bridge  was  built  by  a late  Bajah  of  Benares,  to  prevent  the 
thousands  of  pilgrims  who  pass  along  this  road,  from  forfeiting 
the  reward  of  their  devotion.  Notwithstanding  this  act  of 
pious  charity,  the  Bajah  was  so  unpopular  among  his  people, 
that  they  considered  it  very  unlucky  to  mention  his  name  be- 
fore breakfast.  The  country  was  still  a dead  level,  and  though 
dry  at  this  season,  is  marshy  during  the  rains.  The  last  season 
had  injured  the  road  greatly,  so  that  for  a distance  of  twenty 
or  thirty  miles,  but  little  of  it  was  passable.  A rough  tempo- 
rary track  had  been  made  beside  it,  and  hundreds  of  workmen 
were  employed  in  constructing  bridges  over  the  nullas,  and  re- 
pairing the  embankments.  The  country,  at  first  almost  bare 
of  trees,  and  covered  with  but  moderate  crops,  gradually  be- 
came warmer  and  richer  in  its  aspect.  The  vegetation  increas- 
ed in  luxuriance,  and  the  profusion  of  the  brab  palm  spoke  of 
the  neighborhood  of  the  tropics.  The  villages  were  shaded 
with  huge  banyans,  peepuls  and  other  umbrageous  trees.  The 
Vindhya  Mountains  appeared  blue  and  distant  in  the  south- 


252 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


west,  and  a nearer  range  in  front  marked  my  approack  to  the 
Soane  River. 

The  landscapes  reminded  me  more  of  Egypt  than  any  other 
part  of  India.  There  was  the  same  summer  richness  in  the 
foliage  of  the  trees,  the  same  vivid  green  in  the  broad  fields  of 
wheat  and  barley,  then  fast  ripening,  and  the  same  luxury  of 
color  in  the  patches  of  blossoming  poppy.  But  the  air,  instead 
of  the  crystalline  purity  of  the  Egyptian  atmosphere,  was 
steeped  in  a glowing  blue  vapor — softened  by  a filmy  veil  of 
languor  and  repose.  The  sun  poured  down  a summer  glow, 
though  a light  breeze  now  and  then  ran  over  the  fields,  and 
rolled  along  the  road  in  clouds  of  whirling  dust.  Notwith- 
standing my  lazy  enjoyment  of  the  scenery,  I found  my  appe- 
tite gradually  becoming  sharper,  and  was  not  sorry  to  reach 
the  large  town  of  Sasseram,  where  I halted  at  the  bungalow 
long  enough  to  procure  an  afternoon  breakfast.  Resuming  my 
journey,  I reached  the  banks  of  the  Soane  River  about  five 
o’clock.  The  mountains  on  the  left,  which  follow  its  course, 
cease  at  the  distance  of  some  miles  from  the  road,  whence  they 
have  the  appearance  of  a long  bluff  promontory,  projecting  into 
the  sea.  In  advance  of  the  last  headland  rises  an  isolated 
peak  with  a forked  top,  precisely  as  I have  seen  a craggy  island 
standing  alone,  off  the  point  of  a cape.  There  is  no  doubt 
that  Central  and  Southern  India  at  one  time  constituted  an 
immense  island,  separated  from  the  main  land  of  Asia  by  a 
sea  whose  retrocession  gave  to  the  light  the  great  plains  of 
Hindostan  and  the  Indus. 

The  Soane  is  believed  to  be  the  Erranoboas  of  the  old 
Greek  geographers,  and  at  his  junction  with  the  Ganges  they 
located  the  great  city  of  Palibothra.  He  has  a royal  bed  in 


CROSSING  THE  SOANE  RIVER. 


253 


which  to  roll  his  waters,  which  were  then  shrunken  to  a shal- 
low flood  by  the  dry  season.  Standing  on  the  western  bank,  the 
channel  stretched  away  before  me  to  a breadth  of  nearly  four 
miles — a waste  of  bare  yellow  sand,  threaded  by  the  blue  arms 
of  the  river.  Here  and  there  companies  of  men  and  oxen 
dotted  its  surface,  and  showed  the  line  of  the  ford.  The  tents 
of  those  who  were  waiting  to  cross  on  the  morrow  were 
pitched  on  the  bank,  and  the  gleam  of  fires  kindled  near  them 
shone  out  ruddily  as  the  sun  went  down.  It  was  a grand  and 
impressive  scene,  notwithstanding  its  sombre  and  monotonous 
hues.  Such,  I imagine,  must  be  the  fords  of  our  own  Nebras- 
ka, during  the  season  of  emigration.  I paid  an  official  of 
some  kind  two  rupees,  after  which  my  horse  was  unharnessed, 
and  three  yoke  of  oxen  attached  to  the  garree.  Descending 
to  the  river  bank  a short  distance  above,  the  garree  was  put 
upon  a ferry-boat,  to  be  taken  across  the  deepest  part,  while 
the  bullocks  were  driven  through  to  await  us  on  the  other  side. 
The  main  stream  is  about  half  a mile  wide,  and  beyond  it  lie 
alternate  beds  of  sand,  and  small,  fordable  arms  of  the  river. 
We  moved  at  a snail’s  pace,  on  account  of  the  depth  of  the 
sand.  While  in  the  midst  of  one  of  the  deepest  channels, 
the  water  reaching  to  the  body  of  the  garree,  one  of  the  oxen 
twisted  his  head  out  of  the  yoke  and  darted  offi  There  was 
great  plunging  and  splashing  on  the  part  of  the  natives  for  a 
few  minutes,  but  they  succeeded  in  recovering  him,  and  at 
length,  after  a passage  of  more  than  two  hours,  we  attained 
firm  earth  on  the  opposite  side. 

In  spite  of  the  lovely  moonlight,  I shut  up  the  garree,  and 
courted  slumber.  I passed  a tolerable  night,  and  at  daybreak 
reached  Shergotty,  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  from  Be 


254 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


nares.  The  country,  for  ten  miles  after  leaving  that  town, 
was  level  and  gloriously  rich.  The  wheat  and  barley  were 
taking  on  their  golden  harvest  hue,  and  the  plantations  ol 
poppy  sparkled  in  the  sun  like  sheets  of  freshly-fallen  snow 
The  villages  were  frequent,  thickly  settled,  and  had  a flourish- 
ing air.  The  road  still  swarmed  with  Hindoo  pilgrims,  re- 
turning from  Benares  and  Allahabad,  almost  every  one  carry- 
ing his  two  jars  of  Ganges  water.  At  the  stations  I was  as- 
sailed by  clamorous  beggars  of  all  ages  and  sexes.  The 
troops  of  coolies  on  the  road  were  also  annoying,  by  laying 
hold  of  the  garree  at  the  difiScult  places,  running  with  it  half 
a mile  and  then  demanding  backsheesh.  They  made  a ridicu- 
lous feint  of  pushing  with  all  their  strength,  although  I could 
see  that  there  was  not  the  least  strain  on  their  muscles,  and 
constantly  cried  out,  with  much  energy : “ Push  away  there — 
a great  lord  is  inside  !” 

I was  now  in  the  hilly  province  of  Behar,  where  the  coun- 
try becomes  more  undulating,  and  the  cultivation  more  scanty. 
A chain  of  mountains  which  had  been  visible  for  some  time  in 
front,  began  to  enclose  me  in  their  jungly  depths.  The  road 
still  continued  good,  the  ascents  being  gradual,  and  the  nullas 
crossed  by  substantial  bridges.  The  hills  were  covered  with 
jungle  to  their  very  summits,  and  the  country  on  either  hand, 
as  far  as  I could  see,  was  uncultivated.  The  people  had  a 
wild,  squalid  look,  and  showed  evidence  of  different  blood  from 
the  race  of  the  plains.  I halted  in  the  afternoon  at  the  bun- 
galow of  Dunwah  for  my  single  daily  meal,  and  while  waiting 
for  it,  a garree  drawn  entirely  by  coolies  came  up  the  road 
from  the  Calcutta  side.  The  traveller,  it  seemed,  had  inten- 
tions similar  to  mine,  for  his  coolies  brought  him  to  the  bun- 


THE  TABLE-LAND  OF  BEHAR. 


255 


galow,  and  I soon  heard  his  voice  in  the  next  room,  ordering 
tea  and  “ moorghee  grill  ” (broiled  chicken).  When  I was 
employed  on  my  own  meal,  he  came  in  to  see  who  I was,  and 
we  were  both  surprised  to  find  that  we  had  been  fellow-passen 
gers  on  board  the  Haddington,  and  had  parted  company  at 
Suez,  more  than  two  months  before. 

Leaving  Dunwah,  I had  two  chokees  of  gradual  ascent, 
among  hills  covered  with  jungle, ' and  then  reached,  as  I 
thought,  the  dividing  ridge,  and  anticipated  a corresponding 
descent ; in  place  whereof,  a level  table-land,  dotted  with  de- 
tached mountain  groups,  opened  before  me  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach.  Though  thinly  inhabited,  the  soil  appeared  to  be 
fertile,  and  the  air  was  purer  than  on  the  plains  of  the  Ganges. 
It  was  a wild,  romantic  region,  and  gave  me  the  idea  of  a 
country  just  beginning  to  be  reclaimed  from  a state  of  nature. 
One  would  scarcely  expect  to  find  hundreds  of  miles  of  such 
land,  coexistent  with  the  dense  population  of  other  parts  of 
India.  Yet,  during  my  travels,  I saw  a vast  deal  of  waste 
and  uncultivated  territory.  Were  all  its  resources  developed, 
the  country  would  support  at  least  double  its  present  popula- 
tion. 

The  sunset  was  beautiful  among  those  woody  ranges,  and 
the  full  moonlight  melted  into  it  so  gently  that  it  seemed  to 
arrest  and  retain  the  mellow  lustre  and  soothing  influences  of 
twilight.  At  a chokee  which  I reached  soon  after  dusk,  the 
people  represented  to  me  that  the  road  beyond  was  mountain- 
ous, and  that  two  coolies  would  be  necessary,  in  addition  to 
the  horse.  “Well,”  said  I,  “let  two  of  you  come.”  I wait- 
ed in  vain  for  the  hills,  however,  for  we  went  forward  at  a full 
gallop,  the  whole  distance.  Looking  behind  to  see  whether 


266 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


this  increase  of  speed  was  occasioned  by  the  coolies,  I discover- 
ed those  two  gentlemen  comfortably  seated  on  the  rumble,  with 
their  legs  dangling  in  the  air,  while  every  few  minutes  they 
uttered  cries  of  such  energy,  that  one  would  have  supposed 
they  were  straining  every  nerve  with  the  violence  of  their  ef- 
forts. When  we  reached  the  station,  they  came  up  boldly  and 
demanded  their  pay,  whereupon  I retorted  by  asking  pay  of 
them  for  their  conveyance.  They  slunk  away,  quite  chop-fall- 
en at  my  discovery  of  their  trickery. 

At  dawn  the  next  morning,  I reached  a town  called  Topee- 
chanchee.  Beyond  this  point  the  mountains  gradually  reced- 
ed on  either  hand,  and  at  last  appeared  only  as  isolated  peaks, 
rising  from  the  plain.  Near  Gyra,  there  is  a lofty  single  peak, 
celebrated  as  being  the  sacred  hill  of  the  Jains,  who  are  said  to 
have  five  temples  on  the  summit.  None  of  them  are  visible 
from  the  road.  The  natives  I met  in  this  part  of  Behar  differ- 
ed considerably  in  appearance  from  the  Hindoos  of  the  plains, 
and  probably  belonged  to  the  aboriginal  tribes  who  are  still 
found  among  those  hills.  The  head  is  much  larger  and  long- 
er, in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  body,  which  is  short,  thick 
and  muscular.  Several  German  missionaries  have  located 
themselves  in  this  region,  and  are  said  to  have  had  consider- 
able success  in  their  labors  for  the  conversion  of  these  wild 
tribes. 

During  the  forenoon  I was  overtaken  by  a green  garree,  in 
which  sat  two  ladies.  As  it  approached,  I heard  a shrill  voice 
urging  on  the  driver,  who  lashed  his  horse  into  a gallop,  and 
as  the  vehicle  passed,  the  elder  lady  thrust  her  head  out  of  the 
window,  and  nodded  to  me  with  an  air  of  insolent  triumph. 
She  had  a decidedly  red  face,  diversified  with  freckles,  keen 


ADVENTURES  ON  THE  ROAD. 


257 


gray  eyes,  a nose  with  a palpable  snub,  and  a profusion  of 
coarse  bair,  of  a color,  which  I will  charitably  term  auburn. 
It  was  rather  humiliating -to  be  passed  in  the  race  by  a female 
of  that  style  of  beauty,  but  I did  not  dispute  her  triumph. 
After  leaving  Gyra  I journeyed  all  the  afternoon  over  an  undu- 
lating upland,  covered  with  jungle  and  crossed  by  broken 
chains  of  hills,  which  sank  into  long,  regular,  surfy  swells,  as 
I approached  the  plains  of  Bengal.  Thus  far,  beyond  a few 
balks  and  harmless  gymnastics,  I had  slight  cause  to  com- 
plain of  the  horses  furnished  to  me;  but  here  my  troubles 
commenced  in  earnest.  The  initiative  was  taken  by  a vicious 
animal,  which  bolted  away  from  the  station,  dashed  off  the 
road,  and  after  hurling  the  garree  within  six  inches  of  a pit 
ten  feet  deep,  was  recovered,  and  with  much  persuasion  in- 
duced to  go  forward.  I was  comforted,  however,  by  passing  in 
my  turn,  the  green  garree,  but  the  red-haired  lady  this  time 
turned  her  face  steadfastly  away  from  me,  while  a scowl  of  ill- 
humor  added  to  the  upward  tendency  of  her  nose.  I looked 
out  and  nodded  triumphantly,  but  she  only  sneered  with  more 
freezing  contempt.  She  overtook  me  again  at  Burdwan,  the 
next  morning,  but  after  that  I kept  the  lead,  and  saw  no  more 
of  her. 

As  night  approached,  I reached  the  boundary  of  the  hills; 
an  unbroken  level  extended  to  the  horizon.  The  air  was  ex- 
ceedingly mild  and  balmy,  and  the  moonlight  so  delicious 
that  I sat  up  for  hours,  enjoying  it.  At  Munglepore,  which  I 
reached  about  eight  o’clock,  I met  a gentleman  and  lady,  on 
their  way  to  the  North-West,  in  a private  carriage,  drawn  by 
coolies.  I had  a pleasant  half-hour’s  talk  with  them,  and  on 
leaving,  the  gentleman  gave  me  his  name  as  Major , of  the 


258 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


tb,  and  asked  me  to  visit  him  if  I ever  came  to  tbe  Pun 

iaub.  The  horses,  that  night,  deprived  me  of  all  sleep. 
Sometimes  the  garree  was  planted  firmly  for  half  an  hour  in 
one  spot,  and  then  with  a sudden  impulse  it  shot  forward  with 
flying  speed,  swerving  from  one  side  of  the  road  to  the  other, 
until  a collision  of  some  kind  seemed  inevitable.  Once,  the 
'horse  ran  away,  and  was  only  brought  up  by  dashing  against 
the  abutment  of  a bridge ; and  at  another  time,  being  awaken- 
ed by  an  unusual  movement  of  the  garree,  I looked  out  and 
found  it  on  the  steep  side  of  a hill,  with  three  natives  holding 
on  to  the  uppermost  wheels,  to  prevent  it  from  overturning. 
Notwithstanding  all  these  perils,  we  succeeded  in  reaching 
Burdwan,  seventy-two  miles  from  Calcutta,  by  daybreak. 

This  is  a large  town,  and  the  residence  of  a Eajah.  It  is 
a beautiful  place,  about  two  miles  in  length,  and  has  a large 
number  of  European  residences.  Here  I was  first  struck  with 
the  difference  between  the  vegetation  of  Bengal  and  the  north- 
western provinces.  Instead  of  those  level  Egyptian  plains, 
with  their  topes  of  mango  and  tamarind,  here  were  the  gorge- 
ous growths  of  the  West  Indies,  or  the  Mexican  tierra  caliente. 
In  the  gardens  of  the  Europeans,  the  Poinscftia  hung  its 
long  azure  streamers  from  the  trees,  and  the  Bougainvillia 
raised  its  mounds  of  fiery  purple  bloom;  the  streets  were 
shaded  with  lofty  peepul  trees,  mixed  with  feathery  groups  of 
the  cocoa  palm ; the  native  huts  were  embowered  in  thickets 
of  bamboo,  over  which  towered  the  cotton  tree,  with  its  bare 
boughs  and  clusters  of  scarlet,  lily-shaped  blossoms.  I arriv- 
ed at  Burdwan  at  such  an  early  hour,  and  the  new  garree  and 
horse  were  gotten  ready  for  me  with  so  little  delay,  that  there 
was  no  time  to  procure  breakfast,  before  leaving  the  town.  I 


A WRATHFUL  DELAY. 


259 


set  out  witli  tlie  expectation  of  arriving  at  Calcutta  tlie  same 
evening,  but  bad  not  proceeded  more  than  five  miles,  when  the 
horse  began  to  plunge,  struck  his  hind  feet  through  the  front 
of  the  garree,  snapped  the  axle,  and  left  me  stranded  on  the 
road. 

I dispatched  the  driver  with  the  horse,  back  to  Burdwan,  to 
bring  another  vehicle,  and  took  my  seat  on  the  ruins  to  watch 
over  my  baggage.  Two  hours  thus  passed  away;  three  hours; 
the  sun  stood  high  and  hot  in  the  heavens,  and  at  last  my  pipe, 
to  which  I invariably  turn  for  patience,  failed  of  its  eiffect. 
Twenty-four  hours  had  elapsed  since  I had  eaten,  and  the 
pangs  of  fasting  were  superadded  to  the  wrath  of  deceived 
hopes.  Another  hour  elapsed  and  it  was  now  high  noon ; I 
hailed  the  natives  who  passed,  and  tried  to  bribe  them  to  drag 
my  carriage  back  to  the  town,  but  they  either  could  not  un- 
derstand, or  would  not  heed  me.  Still  another  hour,  and  with 
it,  finally,  the  new  conveyance  came.  My  wrath  was  too  great 
for  words,  but  if  looks  could  have  affected  him,  the  driver 
would  have  crumbled  to  ashes  on  the  spot.  Now,  thought  I, 
the  Fates  are  satisfied,  and  I shall  be  allowed  to  pursue  my 
journey  in  peace.  But,  after  making  a mile  or  so  of  the 
second  stage,  the  horse,  perceiving  two  empty  wagons  by  the 
road-side,  dashed  up  against  them  with  the  garree,  and  there 
remained.  Neither  blows  nor  entreaties  would  induce  him  tc 
budge  a step,  and  the  driver  finally  unharnessed  him  and  went 
back  for  another.  This  time  I only  waited  two  hours,  and  I 
neither  smoked  nor  spoke,  for  I was  fast  approaching  the  apathy 
of  despair.  Toward  sunset  I reached  a bungalow  and  achiev- 
ed  a meal,  after  which,  somewhat  comforted,  I continued  niy 
journey. 


260 


INDIA,  CHINA  AND  JAPAN 


As  the  road  approached  the  Hoogly  River,  the  country 
became  more  thickly  settled,  and  the  native  villages  were  fre- 
quent. The  large  mansions,  gleaming  white  in  the  moonlight, 
the  gardens,  the  avenues  of  superb  peepul  trees  and  groves  ol 
palm,  spoke  of  the  wealth  and  luxury  of  the  inhabitants. 
The  road  was  shaded  with  large  trees,  between  whose  trunks 
the  moonshine  poured  in  broad  streaks,  alternating  with  dark- 
nesses balmy  with  the  odor  of  unseen  flowers.  I became 
tranquil  and  cheerful  again,  deeming  that  my  trials  were  over. 
Vain  expectation ! While  passing  through  the  very  next  vil- 
lage, the  horse  ran  madly  against  a high  garden  wall  on  the 
right  hand,  and  there  stuck.  He  was  unharnessed,  the  garree 
dragged  into  the  middle  of  the  road,  harnessed  again,  and  we 
started.  The  same  thing  happened  as  before;  he  gave  two 
frantic  leaps,  and  dashed  us  against  the  wall.  If  ever  there 
was  an  insane  animal,  that  was  one.  Six  times,  as  I am  a 
Christian,  he  dashed  me  against  that  wall.  The  driver’s  whip 
was  soon  exhausted,  and  I,  beside  myself  with  anger,  having 
nothing  else  at  hand,  took  my  long  cherry-wood  pipe,  and 
shivered  it  to  pieces  over  his  flanks.  But  he  was  inspired  by 
the  Fiend,  and  I was  obliged  to  send  him  away  and  hire 
coolies  to  drag  the  vehicle  as  far  as  the  Hoogly,  six  miles  dis- 
tant, where  I arrived  shortly  after  midnight. 

I was  ferried  across  the  river,  took  another  horse,  and  hav- 
ing only  two  stages  to  Calcutta,  confidently  lay  down  and  went 
to  sleep.  I was  awakened  in  half  an  hour  by  the  stopping  of 
the  garree.  Will  it  be  believed  that  that  horse,  too,  had  come 
to  a stand?  Yet  such  was  the  plain  Truth — Fiction  would 
never  venture  on  such  an  accumulation  of  disasters — and  once 
more  the  driver  went  back  for  another  animal,  leaving  the  gar- 


THE  END  OF  “ GARREE-DAWK.” 


261 


ree,  with  myself  inside,  in  the  middle  of  the  road.  1 slept,  I 
knew  not  how  long,  until  aroused  by  the  sharp  peal  of  volleys 
of  musketry.  The  sun  was  up ; I rubbed  my  eyes  and  looked 
out.  There  I was,  in  the  midst  of  Barrackpore,  in  front  of 
the  parade-ground,  where  some  four  or  five  thousand  Sepoys 
were  going  through  their  morning  drill.  I watched  their  evo- 
lutions, until  the  last  company  had  defiled  off  the  field,  for  the 
driver,  probably  surmising  my  fondness  for  military  specta- 
cles, did  not  make  his  appearance  for  another  hour. 

And  now  we  sped  down  the  grand  avenue,  which,  straight 
as  an  arrow,  and  shaded  by  giant  banyans  and  peepuls,  leads 
from  Barrackpore  to  Calcutta.  Gradually  palace-like  resi- 
dences, surrounded  with  gardens,  made  their  appearance  on 
either  side  of  the  road.  These,  in  turn,  gave  place  to  bamboo 
huts,  with  thatched  roofs.  Presently,  a muddy  moat  appeared, 
and  having  crossed  it,  I felt  that  I was  at  last  inside  of  the 
Mahratta  Ditch,  and  that  my  perils  were  over.  In  half  an 
hour  afterwards  I was  quartered  at  Spence’s  Hotel ; my  jour- 
ney of  2,200  miles  in  the  interior  of  India  was  finished,  and  I 
bade  adieu — for  ever  I trust, — to  “garree-dawk.” 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

CALCUTTA THE  BRITISH  EMPIRE  IN  INDIA. 

Impressions  of  Calcutta— The  Houses  of  the  Residents— Public  Buildings  and  Institov 
tions — Colleges — Young  Bengal — Museum  of  the  Asiatic  Society — The  Botanic 
Garden — Calcutta  at  Sunset — Scene  on  the  Esplanade — English  Rule  in  India — Its 
Results — Its  Disadvantages — Relation  of  the  Government  to  the  Popuiation — Ten- 
ure of  Land  -Taxes — The  Sepoys — Revenue  of  India — Public  "Works — Moral  Chan- 
ges— Social  Prejudices. 

I REACHED  Calcutta  on  the  21st  of  February,  and  embarked 
for  Hong  Kong,  on  the  28th.  My  stay  was  consequently  too 
short  to  justify  me  in  attempting  more  than  a general  descrip- 
tion of  the  city,  and  the  impression  which  it  made  upon  me. 
After  the  glowing  accounts  I had  heard  in  the  Provinces,  of  its 
opulent  social  life  and  architectural  magnificence,  I confess  to 
a feeling  of  disappointment.  It  is  the  London,  or  rather  the 
Paris,  of  India,  and  the  country  magistrate,  after  years  of 
lonely  life  in  the  jungles,  or  in  some  remote  cantonment,  looks 
forward  to  a taste  of  its  unaccustomed  gayeties,  as  one  of  the 
bright  spots  in  his  life  of  exile.  But  it  by  no  means  deserves 
to  arrogate  to  itself  the  title  of  the  “ City  of  Palaces,”  so  long 
as  Venice  and  Florence,  or  even  Cadiz  and  La  Valletta,  re- 
main in  existence.  It  is  not  a city  of  palaces,  but — the  Euro- 
pean portion  at  least — a city  of  large  houses ; and  the  view  of 
the  long  line  of  mansions  on  the  Chowringhee  Road,  extend- 


THE  HOUSES  OF  THE  RESIDENTS. 


26H 


ing  nortliward  to  the  Government  Palace  and  the  City  Hall,  as 
seen  from  the  banks  of  the  Hoogly,  is  certainly  an  architectu- 
ral diorama,  which  would  not  disgrace  any  capital  in  Europe. 
Beyond  this  view,  which,  as  it  is  the  first  that  strikes  the  eye 
of  a stranger  arriving  by  sea,  explains  the  unbounded  admira- 
tion of  many  travellers,  there  is  little  to  satisfy  one’s  expecta- 
tions. It  is  a fair  outside,  a frontispiece  of  wealth  and  parade, 
concealing  the  insignificance  and  poverty  of  the  interior.  Pen- 
etrate the  thin  crust,  which  hints  of  greater  splendors  behind 
it,  and  you  are  soon  lost  in  winding,  dusty  avenues,  lined  with 
the  mean  and  narrow  dwellings  of  the  lower  classes  of  the  na- 
tive population. 

The  houses  of  the  European  residents,  and  of  the  wealthy 
native  Baboos,  are  all  built  on  the  most  spacious  plan.  The 
chambers  are  very  large  and  lofty,  for  the  purpose  of  coolness, 
and  the  open,  arched  verandas  of  the  exterior  throw  a little 
grace  around  the  large,  blank  masses  of  building.  The  mate- 
rial employed  is  brick  and  mortar  only,  which  is  plastered  and 
painted  white  or  cream-colored.  On  account  of  the  damp,  hot 
atmosphere  of  Bengal,  the  painting  must  be  renewed  every 
year,  otherwise  it  becomes  mildewed.  The  upper  stories 
display  a great  quantity  of  windows,  with  green  jalousies  be- 
fore them.  These  mansions  are  mostly  furnished  in  a rich  and 
elegant  style,  though  straw  matting  takes  the  place  of  carpets, 
and  broad  punkas  (for  creating  an  artificial  current  of  air) 
hang  from  the  ceiling.  A large  retinue  of  servants — varying 
from  ten  to  thirty — move  about  in  their  long  white  garments 
and  flat  turbans,  hearing  your  commands  with  folded  hands 
and  a profound  inclination  of  the  head.  The  style  of  living  is 
sumptuous,  but  rather  too  closely  modelled  after  LondoD 


264 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


habits.  Perhaps  there  is  no  community  in  Europe  which  lives 
in  a style  of  equal  luxury,  this  being  the  headquarters  of  the 
General  Government,  and  the  seat  of  many  of  the  best  offices 
in  its  gift. 

Calcutta  has  little  to  show,  in  the  way  of  architecture. 
The  Government  Palace  is  said  to  be  a very  cool  and  comfort- 
able residence,  which,  in  that  climate,  compensates  for  man^ 
defects ; but  let  the  reader  picture  to  himself  five  immense 
cubes  of  masonry,  touching  each  other  precisely  like  five  black 
squares  on  a chess-board,  with  a low  dome  over  the  central  one, 
and  he  will  have  a correct  picture  of  it.  The  City  Hall,  a 
semi-Greek  structure,  is  to  my  eye  the  finest  building  in  the 
place.  It  has  a noble  hall,  supported  by  two  rows  of  Corin- 
thian columns.  The  Metcalfe  Hall,  with  a Corinthian  portico, 
the  new  Hospital,  Hare’s  Hindoo  College,  the  Medical  College, 
and  other  edifices,  are  proud  testimonials  of  the  public  spirit 
and  liberality  of  the  citizens  of  Calcutta,  and  their  architec- 
tural excellence  is  a matter  of  secondary  importance.  The 
new  Cathedral,  however,  which  has  lately  been  erected  at  a cost 
of  $150,000,  reflects  little  credit  on  its  projectors.  It  is 
Gothic,  of  an  impure  and  disproportionate  character,  and  being 
planted  at  one  of  the  most  prominent  points  on  the  Chowrin- 
ghee  Road,  must  be  a perpetual  eyesore  to  such  of  the  resi- 
dents as  cherish  a taste  for  Art.  Several  flourishing  col- 
leges have  been  established,  of  late  years,  for  the  improvement 
of  the  native  population.  That  which  was  founded  by  the  late 
David  Hare,  Esq.,  ranks  among  the  first.  I received  an  invi- 
tation to  attend  a performance  of  Hamlet^  in  English,  by  a 
company  of  Hindoo  students,  within  its  walls.  Another  phil- 
anthropic citizen  had  just  completed  a college  for  females,  the 


YOUNG  BENGAL. 


265 


II 


success  of  which  is  doubted,  as  the  Hindoo  girls  are  betrothed 
very  early,  and  after  that  ceremony,  kept  in  strict  seclusion. 
There  are  two  mission  schools,  under  the  patronage  of  the 
Church  of  Scotland,  in  each  of  which  there  are  more  than  a 
thousand  pupils.  Although  the  conversions  to  Christianity 
are  comparatively  few,  the  enlightened  influence  of  Educa- 
tion, and,  more  especially,  of  European  society,  is  making  it- 
self felt  among  the  intelligent  native  families,  and  a party 
which  styles  itself  “ Young  Bengal”  is  rapidly  increasing  its 
ranks.  The  young  men,  whose  faith  in  the  absurdities  of 
the  religion  of  their  fathers  is  destroyed,  have  just  entered 

the  stage  of  utter  scepticism,  through  which  they  must  pass  in 

• 

order  to  reach  the  true  Gospel.  Their  scorn  and  irreverence 
is  manifested  in  eating  the  flesh  of  the  sacred  cow,  making 
themselves  tipsy  with  the  forbidden  blood  of  the  grape,  and 
disregarding  the  awful  limits  and  restrictions  of  caste.  Many 
Europeans  are  shocked  at  these  proceedings,  but  I think  they 
are  hopeful  signs.  You  cannot  tear  the  deep-rooted  faith  of 
ages  out  of  the  heart  of  a race  without  tearing  up  with  it  all 
capacity  for  Faith.  But  a new  soil  gradually  forms,  and  the 
seed  of  Truth,  if  dropped  at  a happy  moment,  takes  living 
hold  therein. 

During  my  stay  in  Calcutta,  I enjoyed  the  hospitality  of 
my  countryman,  Mr  Barstow,  and  his  partner  Mr.  Ashburner, 
a Scotch  gentleman.  Here,  as  every  where  throughout  India, 
every  door  is  opened  to  the  stranger,  with  a spontaneous  and 
generous  hospitality  which  is  equalled  in  no  other  part  of  the 
world.  Mr.  Chas.  Huffnagle,  the  American  Consul,  to  whom 
I was  indebted  for  many  kind  attentions,  accompanied  me  to 

the  Botanic  Gardens,  and  to  the  Museum  of  the  Asiatic  Soci- 
12 


266 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


ety.  The  latter  embraces  a fine  library,  including  many  rare 
works  in  Oriental  languages,  a large  zoological  and  miueralog- 
ical  collection,  and  a number  of  Hindoo  antiquities,  gathered 
from  different  parts  of  India.  Among  the  latter  is  a stone 
covered  with  Pali  characters,  from  which  Mr.  Prinsep,  the 
distinguished  scholar  and  antiquarian,  obtained  his  clue  to  the 
reading  of  inscriptions  in  that  language.  The  Museum,  how- 
ever, is  evidently  suffering  from  neglect;  the  statues  and 
sculptures  taken  from  ancient  temples,  are  scattered  about  the 
grounds,  and  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  weather,  and  many  of 
the  specimens  of  natural  history  have  been  injured  by  the  rav- 
ages of  the  white  ants.  The  Botanic  Garden,  which  is  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  Hoogly,  three  or  four  miles  below  the  city, 
is  a beautiful  spot,  and  contains  an  unusually  rich  collection  of 
the  trees  and  plants  of  the  Tropics.  The  banyan  tree,  with 
its  110  trunks,  is  considered  a great  lion,  but  I had  seen  speci- 
mens of  more  than  double  the  size  in  the  valley  of  the  Ner- 
budda.  Among  the  ornamental  plants,  I was  most  struck 
with  the  Amlierstia  nohilis,  a native  of  Burmah,  with  glossy 
green  foliage,  and  long,  pendent  spikes  of  scarlet  fiowers ; the 
Bougainvillia  spectahilis^  one  broad  sheet  of  purple  bloom, 
and  the  Poinsettia,  whose  sky-blue  clusters,  ten  to  fifteen  feet 
in  length,  hung  like  streamers  from  the  trees  on  which  it 
leaned. 

From  half  an  hour  before,  until  an  hour  after  sunset,  Cal- 
cutta is  to  be  seen  in  its  greatest  glory.  Then,  all  who  can 
procure  an  equipage,  drive  on  the  esplanade,  an  open  space  of 
three  or  four  miles  in  length  by  nearly  a mile  in  breadth,  ex- 
tending along  the  banks  of  the  Hoogly,  from  the  Government 
Palace  to  Fort  William,  and  still  further,  to  the  country  sub 


SCENE  ON  THE  ESPLANADE. 


267 


urb  of  Garden  Reach.  All  the  splendor  of  Chowringhee  Roaa 
fronts  on  this  magnificent  promenade,  and  I forgave  the  pride 
of  the  Calcuttanese  in  their  city,  when  I joined  the  brilliant 
stream  of  life  in  the  main  drive  on  the  banks  of  the  river, 
watching  hundreds  of  lordly  equipages  passing  and  repassing, 
while  on  the  other  hand,  the  three  miles  of  stately  residencet 
— palaces,  if  you  insist  upon  it — shone  rosy-bright  in  the  face 
of  the  setting  sun.  The  Parsee,  the  Hindoo  and  the  Mussul- 
man mingled  in  the  ranks  of  the  pale  Englishmen,  and  reclin- 
ed in  their  carriages,  or  drove  their  mettled  Arabs  with  as 
much  spirit  as  the  best  of  their  conquerors.  Their  Cashmere 
shawls,  their  silks  and  jewels,  and  the  gay  Oriental  liveries  of 
the  syces  and  footmen,  gave  the  display  an  air  of  pomp  and 
magnificence  which  threw  Hyde  Park  and  the  Champs  Elysees 
into  the  shade.  The  fine  band  from  Fort  William,  playing 
lively  airs  on  the  green,  gave  the  crowning  charm  to  the  hour 
and  the  scene.  The  languor  of  the  Indian  day  was  forgotten, 
and  the  rich,  sensuous  life  of  the  East  fiashed  into  sudden 
and  startling  vividness.  I shall  try  to  retain  the  impression 
of  these  sunset  views  of  Calcutta,  for  they  belong  to  that  class 
of  memories  which  are  but  enriched  by  time. 

Here,  on  the  eve  of  my  departure  from  India,  is  a fitting 
occasion  to  say  a few  words  on  the  character  and  the  results 
of  the  English  rule.  The  Government  of  the  East  India 
Company  presents  an  anomaly  to  which  there  is  no  parallel  in 
history.  It  is  a system  so  complicated  and  involved,  embrac- 
ing so  many  heterogeneous  elements,  and  so  difficult  to  grasp, 
as  a whole,  that  the  ignorance  manifested  even  in  the  English 
Parliament,  with  regard  to  its  operations,  is  scarcely  to  be 
wondered  at.  From  the  rapidity  of  my  progress  through  the 


268 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND* JAPAN. 


couDtrj,  and  the  disconnected  and  imperfect  nature  of  my  ob- 
servations, I feel  some  reluctance  in  venturing  upon  the  sub- 
ject, and  the  reader  must  be  contented  to  receive  a few  general 
impressions,  instead  of  a critical  dissection  of  the  system,  which, 
indeed,  would  occupy  too  much  space,  even  if  I were  compe- 
tent to  undertake  it. 

My  previous  notions  of  English  rule  in  India  were  obtained 
chiefly  from  the  articles  on  the  subject  in  the  progressive 
newspapers  of  England,  and  were,  I need  hardly  say,  unfavor- 
able. The  American  press  is  still  more  unsparing  in  its  denun- 
ciations, though  very  few  of  the  writers  have  any  definite  idea 
of  the  nature  of  the  wrongs  over  which  they  grow  so  indignant. 
That  there  are  wrongs  and  abuses  which  call  for  severe  repre- 
hension, is  undeniable ; but  I have  seen  enough  to  satisfy  me 
that,  in  spite  of  oppression,  in  some  instances  of  the  most  grind- 
ing character,  in  spite  of  that  spirit  of  selfish  aggrandizement 
which  first  set  on  foot  and  is  still  prosecuting  the  subjugation 
of  India,  the  country  has  prospered  under  English  Government. 
So  far  from  regretting  the  progress  of  annexation,  which  has 
been  so  rapid  of  late  years,  (and  who  are  we^  that  we  should 
cast  a stone  against  this  sin  ?)  I shall  consider  it  a fortunate 
thing  for  India,  when  the  title  of  every  native  sovereign  is  ex- 
tinguished, and  the  power  of  England  stretches,  in  unbroken 
integrity,  from  Cashmere  to  Cape  Comorin.  Having  made 
this  admission,  I shall  briefly  refer  to  some  of  the  most  promi- 
nent evils  and  benefits  of  the  system. 

It  is  the  misfortune  of  India  that  it  is  governed  by  a com- 
mercial corporation,  which  annually  drains  the  country  of  a 
large  proportion  of  its  revenues.  It  is  true  that  the  amount  of 
the  dividend  on  the  East  India  stock  is  fixed  by  Parliament 


THE  EAST  INDIA  COMPANY. 


269 


and  cannot  be  exceeded ; but  that  stock,  with  the  debts  in- 
curred, by  various  expensive  wars,  amounts  to  upwards  of 
$225,000,000,  to  meet  the  interest  on  which  requires  an  annual 
expenditure  of  $15,000,000.  Besides  this,  a large  amount  of 
money  passes  out  of  the  country  in  the  form  of  salaries  and  pen- 
sions (the  Civil  Service  being  much  better  paid  than  any  other 
service  in  the  world),  so  that  a constant  system  of  depletion  is 
carried  on,  which  would  have  greatly  impoverished  the  coun- 
try by  this  time,  had  not  its  effects  been  partially  counteracted 
by  other  and  compensating  influences  in  the  Government. 
The  governing  machinery  is  also  very  unwieldy  and  lumbering, 
fettered  by  a system  of  checks,  which,  as  some  of  the  depart- 
ments are  seven  thousand  miles  apart,  renders  it  extremely 
difficult  to  introduce  new  measures,  no  matter  how  urgent  may 
be  the  necessity  for  their  adoption.  Parliament  in  this  in- 
stance adheres  to  the  old  maxim  of  quieta  non  movere^  and  al- 
though the  charter  of  the  East  India  Company  comes  up  for 
renewal  once  every  twenty  years,  few  steps  have  been  taken  to 
lop  off  the  old  excrescences  and  simplify  the  action  of  its  exec- 
utive powers. 

The  relation  of  the  Government  to  the  laboring  millions  of 
India  is  one  that  has  been  frequently  condemned.  It  was  in- 
herited from  the  former  rulers,  but  has  since  undergone  con- 
siderable modification,  and  not,  I am  sorry  to  say,  for  the  bet- 
ter. It  is  substantially  that  of  landlord  and  tenant,  the 
Government  holding  all  the  land  as  its  own  property,  and  leas- 
ing it  to  the  inhabitants  according  to  a certain  form  of  assess* 
ment.  In  some  instances  it  is  leased  directly  to  the  laborers ; 
in  others  to  zemindarsy  or  contractors  on  a large  scale,  who 
sub-let  it  to  the  former  at  an  advanced  rate,  and  practise  ty- 


270 


IIJDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


rannical  extortions  upon  them,  in  order  to  increase  their  own 
profits.  The  worst  feature  of  this  system  is,  that  the  rents 
increase  in  proportion  to  the  productiveness  of  the  land,  so 
that  it  discourages  the  laborer  from  endeavoring  to  improve  his 
portion.  I have  been  informed  that  the  amount  received  by 
Government  averages  about  75  per  cent,  of  the  value  of  the 
produce.  The  consequence  is  that  the  laborers,  whether  leasing 
from  the  zemindars  or  directly  from  the  Government  officers, 
make  but  a bare  subsistence  from  year  to  year.  In  almost  any 
other  country  they  would  be  kept  permanently  at  starvation 
point,  but  in  India  their  wants  are  so  few  and  their  habits  of 
life  so  simple,  that  the  amount  of  positive  distress  is  compara- 
tively small.  For  a common  laborer,  such  as  are  employed 
by  Government  on  roads  and  canals,  four  rupees  a month,  or 
$24  a year,  is  considered  good  wages,  and  there  are  millions 
who  manage  to  subsist  on  half  this  sum. 

In  Bengal  and  Madras  the  condition  of  the  laboring  popu- 
lation is  most  unfavorable,  on  account  of  the  peculiar  land 
systems  which  have  been  adopted  in  those  presidencies.  In 
Madras,  where  what  is  called  the  Ryotwar  system  is  in  force, 
a general  assessment  of  all  produce  and  property  is  made  every 
year,  and  the  rents  fluctuate  according  to  this  standard,  within 
the  limits  of  a maximum  rate,  fixed  by  Government.  But  in 
order  to  carry  out  this  system,  the  assistance  of  a large  num- 
ber of  petty  native  officials  is  required,  and  the  abuses  which 
are  perpetrated  under  it  are  said  to  be  absolutely  monstrous. 
In  the  north-west  provinces,  where  an  assessment  is  only  made 
every  thirty  years,  and  the  occupation  and  cultivation  of  a 
tract  of  land  constitutes  a sort  of  claim  to  the  renewal  of  the 
lease,  the  country  is  in  a much  more  flourishing  state.  The 


THE  SEPOYS. 


271 


soil  is  under  excellent  cultivation,  and  the  inhabitants  are 
thrifty  and  contented,  while  in  the  neighboring  kingdom  of 
Oude,  grinding  taxes  are  extorted  every  year  by  the  force  of 
an  armed  soldiery,  districts  which  twenty  years  ago  blossomed 
as  a garden,  are  now  waste  and  deserted,  and  thousands  of  op- 
pressed subjects  annually  escape  into  the  Company’s  territo- 
ries, where  they  find  at  least  security  of  life  and  property. 
Despotic  as  the  Company’s  government  certainly  is,  it  is  a well- 
regulated  despotism,  and  its  quiet  and  steady  sway  is  far  pre- 
ferable to  the  capricious  tyranny  of  the  native  rulers. 

It  speaks  well  for  the  Government  that  its  military  service 
is  popular  among  the  natives.  There  is  no  conscription,  the 
Sepoy  regiments  being  raised  entirely  by  voluntary  enlistment, 
and  could  be  increased  to  any  extent,  if  desired.  The  military 
force  amounts  to  about  240,000  men — larger,  one  would  sup- 
pose, than  is  actually  needed,  since  it  entails  a great  expense 
upon  the  country.  The  men  are  well  fed  and  clothed — with  the 
exception  of  the  tight  coats  and  stiff  leather  stocks  in  which 
they  are  tortured  daily — and  receive  a liberal  pay.  They 
make  excellent  soldiers,  and  when  placed  on  the  flanks  of  a 
European  battalion,  march  to  battle  as  bravely  as  any  in  the 
world.  For  discipline,  drill  and  soldierly  appearance,  some  of 
the  regiments  would  be  noted  anywhere. 

The  land  revenue  is  of  course  the  main  source  of  supply  to 
the  Government,  but  there  are  some  other  taxes  which  are 
almost  as  severely  felt  by  the  population.  The  manufacture  of 
opium  is  a Government  monopoly,  which  yields  a nett  annual 
revenue  of  $15,000,000.  The  duty  on  salt  is  enormous,  and  as 
this  is  an  article  of  universal  consumption,  is  very  severely  felt. 
It  amounts  in  some  parts  of  the  country  to  two  rupees  ($1)  the 


272 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


maund,  while  in  the  territories  of  native  princes  the  article 
may  he  bought  for  six  annas  (twenty  cents)  the  manna.  The 
internal  customs  which  formerly  existed  have  been  abolished, 
and  a gradual  amelioration  of  the  burdens  under  which  the 
native  population  has  been  weighed  down,  seems  to  be  taking 
place.  Though  very  slow  to  expend  any  money  in  public 
works,  the  Government  still  moves  forward  in  this  direction — 
and  lately  by  guaranteeing  to  the  holders  of  stock  in  the 
India  Railroad  Companies  five  per  cent,  for  twenty  years, 
gave  a powerful  impetus  to  an  undertaking  which  will  in  time 
change  the  whole  aspect  of  the  country.  The  Grand  Trunk 
Road,  extending  from  Calcutta  to  Delhi,  a distance  of  900 
miles,  and  now  being  carried  on  to  Lahore,  is  one  of  the  finest 
highways  in  the  world.  The  Ganges  Canal,  which  will  cost 
$10,000,000  when  finished,  will  cover  with  perpetual  harvests 
the  great  peninsular  plain  between  the  Ganges  and  Jumna, 
and  render  famine  impossible  in  the  north  of  India.  There  is 
scarcely  a large  city  in  the  Company’s  dominions  without  its 
schools,  its  colleges  and  its  hospitals,  supported  mainly  by 
Government  bounty. 

The  moral  changes  which  have  been  wrought  within  the 
last  hundred  years,  or  since  the  battle  of  Plassy  laid  the  true 
foundation  of  the  present  vast  commercial  appanage,  are  even 
greater  than  the  physical.  The  Civil  Service,  though  liable  to 
objection,  from  the  favoritism  practised  in  the  appointment  of 
its  officers,  and  their  promotion  by  seniority,  without  regard  to 
talent  or  capacity,  still  secures  to  the  native  a more  just  and 
equitable  administration  of  law  than  he  could  obtain  from 
magistrates  of  his  own  race.  The  horrid  practice  of  suttee^  or 
widow-burning,  has  been  totally  suppressed ; the  confederation 


SOCIAL  PREJUDICES. 


273 


of  Thugs,  or  Strauglers,  which  extended  throughout  all  Cen- 
tral India,  has  been  broken  up,  and  the  Dacoits,  or  robber 
bands,  which  are  still  in  existence  along  the  Granges,  and  in 
the  hilly  country  at  the  foot  of  the  Himalayas,  are  gradually 
becoming  extinct  With  few  exceptions,  order  and  security 
reign  throughout  the  whole  of  India,  and  I doubt  whether,  on 
the  whole,  there  has  been  less  moral  degradation  and  physical 
suffering  at  any  time  since  the  power  of  the  Mogul  Emperors 
began  to  decline. 

There  is  one  feature  of  English  society  in  India,  however, 
which  I cannot  notice  without  feeling  disgusted  and  indignant. 
I allude  to  the  contemptuous  manner  in  which  the  natives, 
even  those  of  the  best  and  most  intelligent  classes,  are  almost 
invariably  spoken  of  and  treated.  Social  equality,  except  in 
some  rare  instances,  is  utterly  out  of  the  question.  The  tone 
adopted  towards  the  lower  classes  is  one  of  lordly  arrogance , 
towards  the  rich  and  enlightened,  one  of  condescension  and 
patronage.  I have  heard  the  term  “ niggers  ” applied  to  the 
whole  race  by  those  high  in  ofi&ce ; with  the  lower  orders  of 
the  English  it  is  the  designation  in  general  use.  And  this,  too, 
towards  those  of  our  own  Caucasian  blood,  where  there  is  no 
instinct  of  race  to  excuse  their  unjust  prejudice.  Why  is  it 
that  the  virtue  of  Exeter  Hall  and  Stafford  House  can  tole« 
rate  this  fact  without  a blush,  yet  condemn,  with  pharisaic  zeal, 
the  social  inequality  of  the  negro  and  the  white  races  in 
America  ? 

My  visit  to  India  occupied  only  two  months,  and  conse- 
quently some  of  my  conclusions  may  be  too  hastily  drawn.  I 
have  never  made  a more  interesting,  or  instructive  journey,  or 
visited  a country  better  worthy  of  thorough  and  conscientious 

12* 


274 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


Btudj.  The  historical  problem  which  it  presents  is  yet  dis- 
tant from  its  solution,  and  it  is  one  which  no  member  of  the 
Anglo-Saxon  race  can  contemplate  with  indifference. 


CH  A PTEK  XXII. 

FROM  CALCUTTA  TO  HONG  KONG. 

Departure  from  Calcutta — Descending  the  Hoogly  Eiver — An  Accident— Kedgeree— 
The  Songs  of  the  Lascars — Saugor  Island — The  Sandheads — The  Bay  of  Bengal- 
Fellow- Passengers — The  Peak  of  Narcondan — The  Andaman  Islands — Approach  to 
Penang — A Malay  Garree — Beauty  of  the  Island — Tropical  Forests — A Vale  of  Par- 
adise— The  Summit — A Panorama — ^Nutmeg  Orchards — The  Extremity  of  Asia — 
The  Malayan  Archipelago— Singapore — Chinese  Population — Scenery  of  the  Island 
— ^The  China  Sea — Arrival  at  Hong  Kong. 


The  steamship  Pehin  was  advertised  to  leave  Calcutta  at  day- 
light on  the  28th,  so  I drove  down  to  Garden  Reach,  where  she 
lay,  the  evening  previous,  and  passed  the  night  on  board.  When 
I went  on  deck,  the  sun  was  rising  broad  and  red  between  the 
tall  Australian  pines  on  the  bank;  steam  and  smoke  were  jet- 
ting out  of  the  steamer’s  funnels ; crowds  of  natives,  with  a few 
Europeans,  were  gathered  on  the  shore,  and  all  the  confusion  of 
letting  go  cables,  bringing  baggage  at  the  last  moment,  shout- 
ing from  the  paddle-boxes,  and  ringing  bells  on  the  forecastle, 
showed  that  we  were  about  to  start.  The  steamer’s  head  was 
swung  around  by  the  tide,  then  running  at  the  rate  of  seven  or 
eight  knots  an  hour ; we  ran  upon  two  buoys  placed  near  the 
shore,  broke  some  floats  from  the  port  wheel,  and  then  started 
for  the  sea.  A little  below  our  anchorage  we  passed  the 


276 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


Bishop’s  College,  on  the  western  hank  of  the  Hoogly.  It  con* 
sists  of  several  detached  buildings,  in  the  hideous  Indo-Gothic 
style  introduced  by  the  English.  It  is  an  ostentatious  institu- 
tion, and  of  little  practical  use  in  a religious  point  of  view. 

We  swept  too  rapidly  past  the  beautiful  residences  on  both 
banks  of  the  Hoogly — spacious  white  mansions  standing  in 
lawns  shaded  with  the  mango,  the  cocoa-palm  and  the  Aus- 
tralian pine,  overgrown  with  jungle  creepers,  and  surrounded 
with  gardens  gay  with  the  crimson  BougainviUia  or  the  long 
white  chalices  of  the  Daiura^  fringing  the  water’s  edge.  Two 
miles  further  these  evidences  of  taste  and  luxury  disappeared, 
and  the  scattered  villages  of  the  natives,  with  a few  patches  of 
corn  and  cane  around  them,  kept  back  the  primeval  jungle. 
Turnino;  the  an^le  of  Garden  Reach,  we  lost  our  distant  view 
of  the  Ochterlony  Monument,  the  beacon  of  Calcutta,  though 
the  numbers  of  native  and  foreign  craft,  with  steam-tugs,  as- 
cending and  descending  the  river,  still  showed  our  proximity 
to  a mart  of  commerce.  For  some  distance  along  the  western 
bank  the  people  are  brick-makers,  and  their  quaint  pyramids  of 
yellow  clay  frequently  rise  above  the  tops  of  the  cocoa  trees. 
The  Bengalees  live  in  thatched  bamboo  huts,  directly  on  the 
water’s  edge,  with  a dense  rank  wilderness  behind  them.  The 
cocoa-nut  palm  is  the  principal  tree,  though  the  mango  also 
flourishes,  and  the  graceful  areca  is  sometimes  seen.  The  cot- 
ton tree,  with  its  showers  of  scarlet,  lily-shaped  blossoms,  is  a 
most  brilliant  object,  and  splendidly  stars  the  deep  greenback- 
ground  of  the  jungle.  Tigers  are  abundant  in  these  parts,  and 
the  river  abounds  with  crocodiles,  but  I left  India  without 
having  seen  either  of  those  beasts.  The  green  parrot  screamed 
from  the  tops  of  the  palms,  brown  vultures  swept  lazily 


KEDGEREE— SONGS  OF  THE  LASCARS. 


277 


through  the  air,  and  a few  sea-gulls  skimmed  the  waves,  hut  no 
more  ferocious  animals  met  my  eyes. 

About  thirty  miles  down  the  river,  we  ran  into  a hand- 
some three-masted  schooner,  carrying  away  her  bow-sprit  and 
cutting  in  twain  one  of  our  quarter-boats.  We  went  more 
slowly  after  this,  for  the  navigation  was  becoming  intricate,  on 
account  of  the  breadth  of  the  river  and  the  frequency  of  sand- 
banks. The  shores  being  a dead  level,  and  the  jungle  with 
which  they  are  covered  not  very  lofty,  they  soon  sank  to  a low 
green  line  on  either  side,  and  the  native  villages  ceased.  As 
far  as  Diamond  Harbor,  about  sixty  miles  below  Calcutta, 
there  is  a good  road  on  the  eastern  bank,  and  telegraph  stations 
at  intervals.  The  river- is  here  four  miles  broad,  and  gradually 
widens  as  we  approach  the  sea.  We  dropped  down  to  Kedge- 
ree, on  the  western  bank,  about  sunset,  and  there  halted  until 
the  next  morning  at  ten,  in  order  to  cross  St.  James’s  Bar 
w^ith  the  flood  tide.  As  we  were  hoisting  anchor,  the  smoke  of 
a steamer  was  descried  in  the  offing,  and  on  nearer  approach 
she  proved  to  be  the  Tenasserim^  returning  from  Kangoon  with 
Lord  Dalhousie,  the  Governor  General,  and  suite  on  board. 

While  listening  to  the  songs  of  the  Lascars,  and  Chinamen, 
as  they  were  getting  up  the  anchor,  I was  struck  with  the  resem- 
blance of  one  of  their  refrains  to  one  of  the  songs  of  the  Nile 
boatmen.  The  rhythm  was  trochaic  trimeter,  with  a redun- 
dant syllable,  precisely  like  the  “ Ed-doohkan  el-lihoodeh 
faynV'‘  of  the  Arabs.  The  chorus  of  these  Lascars  was; 

Panch  sepjparree  Bomhay-ka  (Five  betel-nut  palms  of 
Bombay.)  They  sang  in  perfect  accord,  and  the  air  was  really 
very  sweet  and  melodious.  ’The  rhythm  was  marked  by  a 
strong  accent  on  the  long  syllables,  which  seems  to  bo  a gen 


278 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


eral  custom  of  Eastern  singers.  Another  simple  and  common 
measure  with  the  Hindoos  is:  ^^Hathee-par  howdah^  ghora- 
par  jeen^''  (the  howdah  on  the  elephant,  the  saddle  on  the 
horse),  which  corresponds  to  that  of  Motherwell’s  ballad : 

Home  came  the  saddle, 

He  nevermore  1 ” 

We  crossed  the  mouth  of  the  river  to  Saugor  Island,  quite 
sinking  the  western  shore,  and  after  running  past  its  solitary 
light-house  and  dreary  tiger  jungles,  stood  out  for  the  Sand- 
heads.  The  extreme  point  of  Saugor  Island  is  believed  by  the 
Hindoos  to  mark  the  junction  of  the  Ganges  with  the  sea,  and 
they  accordingly  esteem  it  as  one  of  the  holiest  spots  in  India* 
At  a certain  season  of  the  year  they  flock  thither  in  great 
numbers,  for  the  purpose  of  bathing  and  offering  sacrifices. 
This  was  my  last  view  of  India,  for,  although  we  were  thread- 
ing the  channels  of  the  Sandheads  and  surrounded  by  the 
muddy  waves  of  the  Gunga,  for  two  or  three  hours  afterwards, 
no  land  was  visible.  About  noon  we  discharged  the  pilot,  and 
having  fairly  entered  on  the  broad  Bay  of  Bengal,  headed  for 
Penang. 

The  voyage  across  the  bay  was  remarkably  pleasant. 
There  was  a profound  calm  in  the  air  and  on  the  water,  and 
our  progress  through  it  created  but  a faint  semblance  of  a 
breeze.  The  mercury  ranged  from  80°  to  85  the  tempera- 
ture at  which  indolence  becomes  a luxury.  I had  been  so 
bruised,  jolted,  shaken  and  excited  by  my  journey  through 
India,  that  the  sweetness  of  the  air,  the  repose  of  the  sea,  and 
the  quiet  movement  of  our  vessel,  were  exceedingly  grateful 
and  refreshing.  There  were  only  six  other  passengers,  and 


THE  ANDAMAN  ISLANDS. 


each  of  us  possessed  an  entire  state-room — a great  advantage 
in  a voyage  in  the  tropical  seas.  The  captain,  a red-haired 
giant  in  appearance,  was  one  of  the  frankest,  heartiest  and 
most  genial  of  commanders,  and  the  other  oificers  were  quiet 
and  gentlemanly  in  their  manners.  Among  the  passengers 
were  Sir  Lawrence  Peel,  Chief  Justice  of  Bengal,  and  Mr. 
Borin,  Secretary  of  the  Board  of  Directors  of  the  East  India 
Company. 

After  sailing  two  or  three  days  across  the  Bay,  towards 
the  Burmese  coast,  we  passed  one  night  through  the  Cocoa 
Islands,  off  the  northern  point  of  the  Great  Andaman.  The 
next  day  we  saw  the  island  of  Narcondan — a single  volcanic 
peak,  which  rises  from  the  water  to  the  height  of  2,500  feet. 
Its  summit  was  hidden  in  clouds,  and  its  sides  completely 
covered  with  the  richest  vegetation.  It  is  singular  that  so  lit- 
tle should  be  known  of  the  Andaman  Islands,  which  lie  high 
up  the  Bay  of  Bengal,  almost  on  the  route  between  Calcutta 
and  Burmah.  The  larger  island  is  about  a hundred  miles  in 
length,  and  has  a splendid  harbor  at  its  northern  extremity. 
The  East  India  Company  at  one  time  attempted  to  make  a 
settlement  there,  but  failed  on  account  of  sickness  among  the 
colonists.  The  natives  of  the  islands  are  believed  to  be  simi- 
lar to  the  Papuans,  though  some  consider  them  a branch  of 
the  African  race.  It  is  said  that  they  are  cannibals,  but  very 
little  is  known  of  their  habits  and  modes 'of  life. 

Approaching  the  promontory  of  Malacca,  we  caught  a dis- 
tant view  of  the  island  of  Salanga,  and  then  stood  in  nearer 
the  eastern  shore.  On  the  morning  of  the  6th  of  March,  we 
made  the  island  of  Penang,  which  is  separated  from  the  penin* 
sula  by  a strait  less  than  a mile  in  width.  The  town  of  Pe- 


280 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


nang  lies  on  the  inner  side,  where  the  narrowness  of  the  strait 
forms  a secure  harbor  for  vessels.  The  eastern  half  of  the 
island  is  nearly  level,  rising  to  the  west  into  a group  of  lofty 
mountains,  clothed  to  the  summits  with  forests.  A strip  of  silver 
beach  along  the  shore,  divided  the  pale  emerald  of  the  sea — a 
hue  which  betrays  a floor  of  coral — from  the  darker  tint  of  the 
forests  of  cocoa  palm,  which  rose  behind.  Here  and  there  a 
picturesque  Malay  village  crouched  in  the  shade,  and  num- 
bers of  small  fishing  craft  dotted  the  surface  of  the  water.  A 
Chinese  junk,  with  sails  of  matting,  divided  into  a score  of 
reefs,  and  with  a great  black  eye  on  each  side  of  her  square 
bows,  moved  slowly  past  us  on  her  way  to  Singapore.  The 
morning  wind,  blowing  off  the  land,  fanned  us  with  spicy  odors, 
and  hinted  of  the  groves  of  nutmeg  and  clove-trees,  for  which 
Penang  is  celebrated. 

When  the  steamer  came  to  anchor,  and  we  were  informed 
that  seven  hours  was  the  limit  of  our  stay,  I determined  to 
visit  the  signal-station  on  the  summit  of  the  highest  peak  of 
the  island,  about  eight  miles  distant,  and  set  ofi*  at  once,  in 
company  with  one  of  the  officers.  We  landed  at  a little  wooden 
jetty,  where  a number  of  light  garrees,  with  a pony  harnessed 
to  each,  were  collected,  in  anticipation  of  employment.  One 
of  the  passengers,  who  was  stationed  at  Penang,  engaged  two 
saddle-ponies  for  us,  and  dispatched  them  in  advance,  to  await 
us  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  while  we  proceeded  thither  in  a 
garree.  The  road  was  admirable,  and  the  Malay  groom,  run- 
ning at  the  pony’s  head,  propelled  him  forwards  even  too  fast 
for  our  liking.  The  purity  of  the  air,  t’  e cloudless  beauty  of 
the  day,  and  the  glorious  groves  of  bain  and  bloom — of  deep 
green  shades,  and  glossy  lustres,  and  gorgeous  coloring — 


PENANG TROPICAL  FORESTS. 


281 


through  which  we  drove,  have  never  been  surpassed,  in  all 
experience  of  the  tropics.  I thought  then,  and  I think  so 
still,  that  Penang  is  the  most  beautiful  island  in  the  world. 
The  dwellings  of  the  English  residents  are  large,  airy  bunga- 
lows, embowered  in  gardens,  and  surrounded  by  groves  of 
cocoa  and  areca  palm,  the  nutmeg  and  bread-fruit  trees.  The 
native  town,  inhabited  by  Chinese  and  Malays,  is  small,  and 
lies  close  upon  the  water,  but  for  miles  around  it  extends  a suc- 
cession of  beautiful  residences  and  rich  plantations,  reaching  to 
the  foot  of  the  hills.  The  Chinese  houses,  scattered  along  the 
road,  with  their  great  red  hieroglyphics,  and  the  queer,  solemn- 
ly-stupid  yellow  faces  of  their  inmates,  catch  the  eye  of  the 
traveller  from  the  west,  and  tell  him  that  he  has  at  last  reached 
the  borders  of  the  Far  East. 

After  a drive  of  four  miles,  we  entered  a little  dell,  where 
a stream  of  water,  stealing  through  the  woods,  fell  over  the 
rocks  in  a miniature  cascade.  Several  lithe  Malay  youths 
were  bathing  in  the  shallow  pool  at  its  foot,  and  their  glowing 
brown  bodies  glistened  in  the  sun.  .Here  we  mounted  our 
ponies,  and  commenced  the  ascent.  The  path  wound  back- 

wards and  forwards  through  dense  thickets,  between  banks 
covered  with  gigantic  fern,  till  it  attained  a ridgy  spur  of  the 
mountain,  which  it  followed  upward  to  the  central  heights. 
We  soon  entered  the  forests,  which  gradually  became  so  dense 
and  dark  as  to  shut  out  every  ray  of  the  sun.  Trees  of  thick, 
glossy  foliage,  mingled  their  tops  a hundred  feet  above  our 
heads,  and  in  their  shade  arose  a luxuriant  undergrowth. 
Ferns,  whose  fronds  were  frequently  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  in 
length,  bent  their  arching  plumes  above  our  heads;  strange 
plants,  of  new  and  graceful  form,  clustered  on  either  hand,  and 


282 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


birds  of  bright  plumage  darted  in  and  out  of  the  foliage 
There  was  one,  hidden  in  thickest  shades,  whose  clear,  pro- 
longed, bell-like  note,  rang  continually  through  the  forest — a 
wild,  wizard  call,  which  overflowed  all  the  air,  and  was  taken 
up  in  one  spot  as  soon  as  it  ceased  in  another. 

We  had  advanced  in  this  way  about  two  miles,  when  an 
opening  in  the  trees  disclosed  a view  to  the  south,  into  the 
heart  of  a valley  of  more  than  Arcadian  loveliness.  It  might 
have  been  three  miles  in  length  by  less  than  a mile  in  breadth, 
and  the  orchards  of  palm,  orange  and  spice-trees  which  covered 
its  lap,  almost  concealed  the  dwellings  of  the  planters.  It  lay 
between  hills  of  billowy  green,  which,  uniting  at  the  farther 
end,  formed  a gorge  or  gateway  of  forests,  through  which  shone 
the  dark-blue  sphere  of  the  sea.  It  was  a landscape  from  the 
paradise  of  dreams,  basking  in  the  light  of  its  own  serene  and 
perfect  beauty.  As  I looked  down  on  it  from  that  window  of 
the  reo’ion  of  shade,  I could  have  believed  that  I stood  on  the 
Delectable  Mountains,  and  that  the  valleys  of  the  Land  of 
Beulah  were  at  my  feet. 

Again  we  plunged  into  the  depth  of  the  forest,  and  after 
two  miles  more  of  climbing,  which  moistened  every  hair  in  th(> 
coats  of  our  sturdy  little  ponies,  reached  the  flag-staff,  2,500 
feet  above  the  sea.  Here  there  is  a summer  residence  of 
the  Governor,  and  half  a dozen  private  bungalows.  The 
pure  air  of  the  heights,  with  the  refreshing  temperature, 
which  stands  at  from  70°  to  75°  during  the  whole  year,  make 
this  a most  delightful  place  of  resort.  I climbed  to  the  cross- 
trees  of  the  flag-staff  in  order  to  get  an  uninterrupted  view  of 
the  wide  summer  panorama.  The  lowland  of  Penang,  with  its 
orchards  and  gardens,  lay  at  my  feet ; across  the  strait  stretched 


. A PANORAMA. 


283 


many  a league  of  forest,  divided  here  and  there  by  the  gleam- 
ing windings  of  rivers,  and  far  back  in  the  vapory  distance 
arose  the  mountain  spine  of  the  Peninsula  of  Malacca.  To 
the  south  and  west,  over  scattered  island-cones  of  verdure, 
curved  a great  hemisphere  of  sea,  behind  which,  hidden  by  the 
warm  noonday  haze,  were  the  mountains  of  Sumatra.  That 
part  of  the  peninsula  lying  opposite  to  Penang  has  been  ac- 
quired by  the  East  India  Company,  and  erected  into  a pro- 
vince, with  the  title  of  Wellesley;  further  south,  Malacca  and 
Singapore  are  English  dependencies ; the  gap  between  Arracan 
and  Tenasserim  has  been  filled  up  by  the  recent  annexation  of 
Pegu,  and  now,  of  two  thousand  miles  of  coast  line  between 
Calcutta  and  Singapore,  there  are  not  more  than  two  hundred, 
to  which  the  English  title  is  still  wanting.  The  Anglo-Indian 
Empire  stretches  from  Beloochistan  to  the  China  Sea.  They 
now  talk  of  the  natural  boundaries  of  Burmah  as  obviating 
the  need  of  further  annexation  to  the  Eastward ; but  when  did 
their  lust  of  aggrandizement  ever  heed  any  natural  boundary 
except  the  sea  ? 

On  our  return  to  the  ship  we  visited  a nutmeg  plantation. 
The  trees,  which  are  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  height,  are 
planted  in  rows,  at  intervals  of  about  twenty  feet.  The  leaf 
is  dark  green  and  glossy,  resembling  that  of  the  laurel,  and  the 
fruit,  at  a little  distance,  might  be  taken  for  a small  russet- 
colored  apple.  When  ripe  the  thick  husk  splits  in  the  centre^ 
showing  a scarlet  net-work  of  mace,  enveloping  an  inner  nut, 
black  as  ebony,  the  kernel  of  which  is  the  nutme  t of  commerce. 

The  clove-tree,  not  then  in  its  bearing  season,  has  some  re- 
semblance to  the  nutmeg,  but  the  leaf  is  smaller,  and  the  foliage 
more  loose  and  spreading.  As  we  drove  through  the  orchard, 


284 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


the  warm  air  of  noon  was  heavy  with  spice.  The  rich  odors 
exhaled  from  the  trees  penetrated  the  frame  with  a sensation 
of  languid  and  voluptuous  repose.  Perfume  became  an  appe- 
tite, and  the  senses  were  drugged  with  an  overpowering  feeling 
of  luxury.  Had  I continued  to  indulge  in  it,  I should  ere 
long  have  realized  the  Sybarite’s  complaint  of  his  crumpled 
rose-leaf. 

In  the  Strait  of  Malacca,  the  heat  was  rather  oppressive,  the 
thermometer  standing  at  88°  in  the  coolest  part  of  the  ship. 
We  ran  down  within  sight  of  the  peninsula,  and  on  the  after- 
noon after  leaving  Penang,  had  a distant  view  of  the  town  of 
Malacca.  The  next  morning  I went  on  deck,  just  in  time  to 
see  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Continent  of  Asia.  The  Pe- 
ninsula of  Malacca  tapered  away  to  a slender  point,  complete- 
ly overgrown  with  palm  and  mangrove  trees,  which  rose  in 
heavy  masses  from  the  water’s  edge.  At  the  end,  a single 
cocoa-palm  stood  a little  in  advance  of  its  fellows,  leaning  out- 
ward, as  if  looking  intently  across  the  Southern  Sea.  The 
water  was  smooth  and  glassy,  and  belts  of  a paler  green  be- 
trayed the  hidden  banks  of  coral.  Island  after  island  arose  in 
the  distance,  until  we  were  inclosed  in  an  archipelago  of  never- 
fading  verdure.  They  were  tenanted  entirely  by  the  Malay 
races;  some  were  hilly  and  irregular  in  appearance,  while 
other  rose  like  green  cones  from  the  tranquil  sea.  The  Island 
of  Singapore,  which  we  were  approaching,  was  comparatively 
low,  but  not  without  a picturesque  beauty  in  the  irregularity  of 
its  shores.  The  strait  through  which  we  sailed  resembled  an 
inland  lake  rather  than  a part  of  the  ocean,  for  the  islands  were 
so  crowded  together  in  the  distance  as  quite  to  intercept  the 
sea-horizon.  Presently  we  entered  what  seemed  a river — the 


SINGAPORE CHINESE  POPULATION. 


285 


narrow  strait  between  Singapore  and  a small  adjacent  island, 
and  halted  alongside  a large  wooden  pier,  in  what  is  called  the 
New  Harbor. 

The  town  of  Singapore  is  three  miles  distant,  but  as  the 
steamer  remained  twenty-four  hours  to  coal,  we  embarked  in 
garrees  drawn  by  Malay  ponies,  and  were  carried  straightway 
to  the  “ London  Hotel,”  where  we  remained  until  next  day. 
The  town  is  purely  commercial,  and  has  grown  up  principally 
within  the  last  ten  or  fifteen  years.  The  population  is  esti- 
mated at  40,000  or  50,000,  the  greater  part  of  whom  are 
Chinese.  There  are  several  of  their  pagodas  in  the  place,  and 
three  large  burying-grounds,  densely  populated,  in  the  vicinity. 
This  was  my  first  sight  of  a large  Chinese  community,  and  the 
impression  it  left  was  not  agreeable.  Their  dull  faces,  without 
expression,  unless  a coarse  glimmering  of  sensuality  may  be 
called  such,  and  their  half-naked,  unsymmetrical  bodies,  more 
like  figures  of  yellow  clay  than  warm  flesh  and  blood,  filled  me 
with  an  unconquerable  aversion.  The  scowling  Malay,  with 
his  dark,  fiery  eye,  and  spare  but  sinewy  form,  was  ennobled 
by  the  comparison,  and  I turned  to  look  upon  him  with  a great 
sense  of  relief. 

The  Island  of  Singapore  is  hilly  and  undulating,  although 
no  part  of  it  rises  more  than  500  feet  above  the  sea.  On  the 
eastern  side  of  the  town  is  the  English  suburb,  which  contains 
a number  of  pleasant  residences.  The  Governor’s  mansion  is 
delightfully  situated  on  a hill  above,  commanding  a fine  view 
of  the  harbor,  and  the  large  island  of  Bintang  in  the  distance. 
The  hills  around  it  are  covered  with  turf  as  fresh  and  green  as 
that  of  England.  The  temperature  of  the  island,  which  lies  in 

18^  N.,  is  healthy  and  agreeable,  and  scarcely  varies 


286 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


tliroughout  the  whole  year.  The  vegetation  is  kept  constant- 
ly fresh  and  luxuriant  by  frequent  showers.  The  interior  of 
the  island  is  covered  with  plantations  of  pepper  and  nutmeg. 
The  depredations  committed  by  tigers  are  said  to  be  frightful, 
since  in  spite  of  a government  bounty  for  their  destruction, 
more  than  three  hundred  persons  are  annually  devoured  by 
them. 

We  left  Singapore  on  the  morning  of  the  9th,  and  after 
passing  the  island  of  Bintang,  entered  the  China  Sea.  Not- 
withstanding it  was  the  season  of  the  north-east  monsoon,  we 
were  favored  with  calm  weather  and  clear  skies.  During  the 
first  two  days  we  passed  Pulo  Aor,  and  the  barren  groups  of 
the  Anambas  and  Natunas,  after  which  nothing  occurred  to 
break  the  monotony  of  the  voyage,  until  the  morning  of  the 
16th,  when  in  the  midst  of  a thick  and  rainy  gale  from  the 
north,  which  came  up  suddenly  during  the  night,  we  made 
the  rocks  called  the  Asses’  Ears,  off  the  Ladrone  Islands,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Gulf  of  Canton.  We  got  shelter  from  the 
heavy  swell  under  the  lee  of  the  Lemma  Island,  and  as  the 
clouds  broke  away  a little,  saw  before  us  the  barren  hills  of 
Hong  Kong  In  two  hours  more  we  were  at  anchor  in  the 
harbor. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

VOYAGE  UP  THE  COAST  OF  CHINA. 

TrJp  to  Macao — Attached  to  the  U.  S.  Embassy — On  Board  the  Steam-frigat*  Basque 
hanna— Departure  from  Macao — The  Coast  of  Chinar— The  Shipwrecked  Japanese— 
Their  Address  to  the  Commissioner — ^The  Eastern  Sea — ^The  Archipelago  of  Chusan 
— The  Mouth  of  the  Tang-tse-Kiang— The  Steamer  Aground — Rumors  of  the  Reb- 
els— Arrival  at  Woosung — Entering  the  Woosung  River — Chinese  Junks — Appear- 
ance of  the  Country — Approach  to  Shanghai — Arrival. 

On  arriving  at  Hong  Kong,  one  of  my  fellow-passengers  en- 
tered my  name  at  the  Club  House,  a part  of  which  was  fitted 
up  as  a hotel.  The  weather  was  cold,  raw  and  cloudy,  and  I 
spent  the  greater  part  of  my  time  in-doors,  reading  the  late  files 
of  European  journals.  The  U.  S.  steam-frigate  Susquehanna 
was  lying  in  the  harbor,  ready  to  sail  for  Macao,  and  as  I de- 
sired to  visit  Canton,  I accepted  Capt.  Buchanan’s  invitation 
to  cross  in  her  to  the  former  place,  whence  I could  take  the 
Canton  steamer.  She  left  Hong  Kong  on  the  morning  of  the 
20th,  and  after  3 pleasant  run  of  four  hours  anchored  in  Macao 
Roads.  I went  ashore,  expecting  to  proceed  to  Canton  on  the 
morrow:  but  no  one  knows  what  a day  may  bring  forth. 
Upon  calling  on  the  U.  S.  Commissioner,  the  Hon.  Humphrey 


288 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN 


Marshall,  to  whom  I had  letters,  he  generously  offered  to  attach 
me  to  the  Embassy,  that  I might  be  able  to  accompany  him  to 
the  seat  of  war  in  the  North.  So  rare  an  opportunity  of  see- 
ing the  most  interesting  portion  of  China  during  the  present 
remarkable  crisis  in  the  history  of  the  Empire  was  not  to  be 
neglected ; and  on  the  following  morning  I again  found  myself 
on  board  the  Susquehanna,  listening  to  the  thunders  of  the  sa- 
lute which  welcomed  the  Commissioner.  It  was  worth  all  my 
long  wanderings  in  foreign  lands  and  among  strange  races,  to 
experience  the  pride  and  satisfaction  of  walking  the  deck  of  a 
national  vessel,  and  hearing  again  the  stirring  music  of  our  na- 
tional airs.  One  must  drink  deep  of  absence  and  exile  to  learn 
the  tenderness  of  that  regard  for  his  native  land,  which  at 
home  lies  latent  and  unsuspected  at  the  bottom  of  his  nature. 
I want  no  man  for  a friend,  whose  heart  will  not  beat  more 
warmly  at  the  sight  of  his  country’s  banner  floating  on  a dis- 
tant sea. 

The  handsome  stern-cabin  of  the  Susquehanna  was  appro- 
priated to  the  use  of  the  Commissioner,  and  his  suite,  consisting 
of  Dr.  Peter  Parker,  Secretary  of  Legation,  Mr.  0.  H.  Perry, 
Private  Secretary,  and  myself.  "VTc  found  in  Capt.  Buchanan, 
the  Commander,  all  that  his  reputation  as  a gentleman  and  a 
brave  and  gallant  officer,  led  us  to  anticipate ; while  the  officers 
under  his  command  justified  the  high  opinion  I had  formed  of 
our  naval  corps,  from  the  few  whom  it  had  previously  been  my 
good  fortune  to  meet.  Under  such  auspices,  our  voyage  up 
the  coast  of  China  was  one  of  the  most  agreeable  I ever 
made. 

"We  left  Macao,  about  nine  o’clock  on  the  morning  of  the 
21st,  and  stood  outward  to  sea,  past  the  Lemma  Island.  The 


THE  COAST  OP  CHINA. 


289 


day  was  warm  and  calm,  and  the  barren  Chinese  coast  was 
unobscured  by  cloud  or  vapor.  It  is  a bold,  rugged  shore,  iu’ 
dented  with  small  bays  and  estuaries,  and  bounded  by  a fringe 
of  lofty  island-rocks,  which  are  for  the  most  part  uninhabitable. 
In  its  general  features,  it  resembles  the  coast  of  California,  but 
is  in  reality  more  sterile,  though  hardly  more  so  in  appear- 
ance. Towards  evening  we  saw  the  promontory  called  Breaker 
Point  in  the  distance,  and  during  the  night  passed  within  half 
a mile  of  the  Lamock  Islands.  The  next  morning  was  dull 
and  overcast.  We  were  already  within  the  Straits  of  Fu-kien, 
or  the  Formosa  Channel,  as  it  is  now  called,  and  had  a strong 
head-wind.  During  the  day  we  had  occasional  glimpses  of  the 
islands  and  promontories  of  the  coast,  on  our  left,  but  too  dark 
and  indistinct  to  be  satisfactory.  About  noon,  we  passed  the 
headland  of  Quemoy,  north  of  the  Bay  of  Amoy,  which  is  one 
of  the  five  ports  opened  to  foreigners  by  the  English  war.  Its 
commerce,  however,  is  next  to  nothing,  nearly  all  the  foreign 
trade  being  concentrated  at  Canton  and  Shanghai. 

On  Monday  afternoon  the  thirteen  shipwrecked  Japanese 
sailors,  who,  having  been  picked  up  at  sea  and  taken  into  San 
Francisco,  were  sent  to  China  by  the  order  of  our  Govern- 
ment, and  placed  on  board  the  Susquehanna,  were  summoned 
in  a body  upon  the  quarter-deck  to  pay  their  respects  to  the 
“ big  mandarin,”  as  they  termed  Col.  Marshall.  They  made  a 
very  profound  inclination  of  the  head,  removing  their  caps  at 
the  same  time.  Dr.  Parker  addressed  them  in  Chinese,  which 
they  did  not  understand  when  spoken;  but  as  the  Chinese 
characters  are  known  to  the  Japanese  (the  same  character  sig- 
nifying the  same  word  in  both  languages),  he  was  enabled  to 
communicate  with  them.  They  appeared  cheerful  and  in  good 
13 


290 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


condition.  They  were  nearly  all  dressed  in  sailor  costume, 
with  clothes  which  the  officers  and  men  had  given  them.  It 
was  curious  to  note  the  variety  of  feature,  form  and  expression 
among  these  men,  all  of  whom  belonged  to  the  same  class 
There  was  one  with  an  unusually  broad  face  and  dark  com- 
plexion, who  • corresponded  to  Golownin’s  description  of  tho 
Kurile  inhabitants  of  the  northern  portion  of  the  Empire. 
They  wore  their  hair  short  upon  the  crown  and  front  of  the 
head,  but  hanging  loose  and  long  at  the  back  and  sides,  which 
Dr.  Parker  declared  to  have  been  the  former  Chinese  custom, 
shaven  heads  and  long  tails  having  been  introduced  by  the 
Mantchow  Dynasty.  The  features  of  these  Japanese  were 
much  better  than  those  of  the  corresponding  class  of  Chinese. 
The  day  following  their  presentation  a note  written  in  Chinese 
characters  was  addressed  by  them  to  Col.  Marshall.  It  was 
very  fragmentary  and  laconic,  owing,  no  doubt,  to  the  small 
stock  of  characters  in  the  writer’s  possession.  It  was  addressed 
9n  the  envelope : “To  the  American  King — from  thirteen 
Japanese,”  and  the  contents  were  as  follows:  “ We,  thirteen 
Japanese  men,  have  fathers,  mothers,  young  brothers,  old 
brothers,  wives,  children.  You  go  to  Shanghai : go  to  Japan!” 
On  Wednesday  we  continued  to  advance  against  a strong 
head-wind,  catching  but  few  and  cloudy  glimpses  of  the  coast. 
During  the  day  we  passed  the  mouth  of  the  estuary  of  Foo- 
chow-foo,  another  of  the  five  ports.  Before  night,  we  had 
passed  through  the  Formosa  Channel,  and  were  in  the  Tong-hai, 
or  Eastern  Sea,  which  is  bounded  by  China,  Corea,  the  Japanese 
Island  of  Kiusiu,  and  the  Lew-Chew  Archipelago.  The  next 
morning  we  were  off  the  province  of  Che-Kiang.  Soon  after 
sunrise  we  made  a small  island  called  the  Straw-Stack,  and  still 


THE  ARCHIPELAGO  OF  CHUSAN. 


•291 


further,  *a  headland  called  Mushroom  Peak,  from  its  shape,  the 
sides  being  perpendicular,  and  the  summit  slightly  projecting 
over  them.  At  the  other  extremity  of  the  same  promontory, 
there  was  a tall  isolated  rock  resembling  a pagoda.  The  af- 
ternoon was  raw  and  foggy,  and  as  there  was  a large  number  of 
fishing  junks  off  the  coast,  our  steam-whistle  was  blown  repeat- 
edly, as  a signal  for  them  to  get  out  of  the  way. 

On  Friday  there  was  a dense  fog,  with  frequent  showers  of 
rain,  and  we  saw  no  land  until  evening,  when  we  made  the 
rocks  called  the  Brothers,  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  Archipelago 
of  Chusan.  We  had  had  no  observation  for  a day  or  two,  but 
when  the  fog  lifted  and  showed  the  rocks,  we  were  not  a mile 
from  our  supposed  position.  The  night  set  in  dark  and  stormy, 
and  as  the  tides  and  currents,  which  prevail  in  this  part  of  the 
Archipelago,  are  very  uncertain,  we  felt  our  way  in  the  fog 
into  a strait  between  the  islands  of  Chusan  and  Chinsan,  and 
came  to  anchor  under  the  lee  of  the  latter.  It  blew  violently 
during  the  night,  but  the  gale  had  the  effect  of  clearing  away 
the  fog,  so  that  we  were  able  to  get  under  way  again  at  daylight. 

We  rounded  the  eastern  point  of  Chinsan,  and  running  in  a 
north-west  course,  soon  made  the  two  groups  called  the  Bug 
ged  Islands  and  Parker’s  Islands.  The  water  became  yellow 
and  muddy,  showing  that  we  were  already  within  the  influence 
of  the  great  Yang-tse-Kiang  Eiver,  and  when  scarcely  abreast 
the  southern  entrance,  it  was  as  turbid  as  the  Mississippi  at 
New  Orleans.  The  volume  of  water  brought  down  by  the  river 
must  be  enormous ; the  southern  mouth,  which  comprises  about 
two  thirds,  or  less,  of  the  main  stream,  is  thirty  miles  in 
breadth.  Parker’s  Island  was  green-  and  beautiful,  and  ap- 
peared to  be  cultivated.  Most  of  the  other  islands  were  lofty, 


292 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


rugged,  as  their  name  denotes,  and  hopelessly  barren.  The 
smaller  ones  were  mere  rocks,  cleft  and  divided  by  deep 
chasms,  like  those  on  the  western  coast  of  Scotland.  The  wind 
was  keen,  cold,  and  strong  from  the  north,  and  the  thermome- 
ter down  to  60°.  The  sky  was  a cool,  pale  blue,  veiled  with 
haze,  but  the  sun  shone  cheerily  at  intervals.  As  we  ap 
proached  our  destination,  the  Japanese  desired  another  inter- 
view with  the  Commissioner.  It  was  intimated  that  they 
wished  to  land  at  Shanghai,  make  their  way  to  Chapoo,  the 
Chinese  port  of  communication  with  Nagasaki,  and  embark  in 
a junk  for  the  latter  place.  Chapoo  is  south  of  Shanghai,  on 
the  Bay  of  Hang-Chow,  and  about  ninety  miles  distant. 

At  noon  we  reached  Grutzlaff  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Tang-tse-Kiang  (Son  of  the  Sea),  and  commenced  the  difficult 
navigation  of  the  river.  The  island  is  a round,  rocky  hillock, 
rising  210  feet  from  the  water.  From  its  prominence,  and 
position  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  it  is  a valuable  landmark 
for  vessels.  The  Yang-tse-Kiang  is  here  about  twenty  miles 
broad,  flowing  between  the  mainland  of  China,  and  the  large 
island  of  Tsung-Ming.  Both  shores  are  a dead  level,  dyked 
to  prevent  inundation,  like  the  banks  of  the  lower  Mississippi, 
and  not  to  be  seen  from  the  narrow  channel  in  the  middle  of 
the  river,  which  is  lined  on  both  sides  by  extensive  sand-banks. 
We  had  a strong  wind  and  tide  against  us,  and  did  not  lose 
sight  of  GutzlaflF  Island  until  near  four  o’clock.  The  water 
became  more  dense  and  yellow  as  we  proceeded,  and  the  pad- 
dles of  the  steamer  stirred  up  large  quantities  of  the  soft  mud 
of  the  bottom.  The  depth  of  the  stream  varied  from  four  to 
five  fathoms. 

At  six  o’clock,  as  the  crew  was  beaten  to  quarters,  it  was 


THE  FRIGATE  AGROUND. 


293 


noticed  that  the  engines  moved  sluggishly,  and  soon  afterwards 
the  ship  refused  to  obey  her  helm.  She  was  immediately 
stopped,  and  a careful  sounding  showed  only  two  and  three 
quarter  fathoms.  The  previous  sounding  had  been  disturbed 
by  the  wake  of  the  wheel,  and  the  sinking  of  the  lead  into  the 
loose  mud,  so  that  we  had  run  about  half  a mile  upon  the 
South  Shoal  before  being  aware  of  it.  The  engines  were 
backed,  but  the  strong  northern  gale  and  ebb  tide  kept  us  sta- 
tionary for  about  an  hour,  after  which  the  ship  began  to  move 
by  fits  and  starts.  The  guns  were  run  forward  to  lighten  her 
stern,  and  the  tide  setting  in  her  favor,  she  worked  herself  off 
by  nine  o’clock,  and  came  to  anchor  in  deep  water. 

We  started  again  the  next  morning,  with  the  flood  tide. 
The  day  was  crystal-clear,  and  a bracing  wind  blew  from  the 
north-east.  In  an  hour  or  two  we  were  hailed  by  an  American 
pilot,  who  had  been  taking  a French  vessel  out  of  the  river. 
He  startled  us  with  the  news  that  the  rebels  had  invested 
Nanking  with  an  army  of  200,000  men,  captured  all  the 
Chinese  war-junks  in  the  Yang-tse-Kiang,  and  cut  off  supplies 
from  the  beleaguered  troops — with  many  other  particulars, 
which,  like  all  rumors  afloat  at  that  time,  were  greatly  exagge- 
rated. In  another  hour  the  mainland  of  China  was  visible  on 
our  left — a low  shore,  covered  with  trees,  and  dotted  with  the 
houses  of  the  natives.  Numbers  of  junks  were  anchored  along 
the  beach,  and  the  wreck  of  a European  vessel  told  of  the 
dangers  of  the  navigation.  The  island  of  Tsung-Ming  was 
barely  visible  to  the  east.  We  reached  the  mouth  of  the 
Woosung  River  about  noon,  and  cast  anchor  a mile  from  the 
shore,  to  wait  for  a tide  to  carry  us  over  the  bar.  On  making 
signals,  a junk  came  out  for  the  mails,  with  which  she  started 


201 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


at  once  for  Shanghai.  The  mouth  of  the  river  was  crowded 
with  vessels,  the  greater  part  of  which  were  native  junk«J. 
The  stream  is  about  half  a mile  in  breadth,  and  is  protected  by 
two  batteries,  the  northern  one  having  126  guns.  The  shore  is 
well  wooded,  and  the  trees,  with  their  thin  texture  and  the 
greenish-gray  hue  of  their  budding  leaves,  showed  that  we  had 
again  reached  a climate  where  spring  is  known. 

Mr.  P.  S.  Forbes,  U.  S.  Consul  at  Canton,  and  Mr.  Cun- 
ningham, Vice-Consul  at  Shanghai,  who  had  ridden  down  to 
Woosung  in  expectation  of  the  Susquehanna’s  arrival,  came  on 
board  shortly  after  we  dropped  anchor.  At  4 P.  M.,  the  tide 
being  again  flood,  we  stood  into  the  river  through  the  fleet  of 
junk  sat  its  mouth.  It  was  a delicate  piece  of  manoeuvring, 
but  the  vessel  minded  her  helm  admirably,  and  threaded  the 
mazes  of  the  crowded  anchorage  without  touching  one  of  the 
craft.  The  tide  carried  us  safely  over  the  bar,  and  we  kept  on 
up  the  river  at  nearly  our  fall  speed.  The  stream  was  covered 
with  junks  lying  at  anchor  or  sailing  up  and  down.  Our 
steam-whistle  warned  them  to  clear  the  track,  and  they  obeyed 
with  alacrity,  the  crews  gathering  upon  the  high  poops  to  sur- 
vey us  as  we  passed.  Most  of  the  junks  had  inscriptions 
across  the  stern  and  along  the  sides  of  the  hull.  Some,  which 
Dr.  Parker  read,  denoted  that  the  vessel  was  in  Government 
service:  others  had  fantastic  names,  such  as  “The  Favorable 
Wind,”  “ Happiness,”  &c.  All  the  larger  ones  had  four  masts, 
each  mast  carrying  a single  oblong  sail,  made  of  very  closely 
woven  matting,  crossed  with  horizontal  slips  of  bamboo,  so 
that  it  could  be  reefed  to  any  extent  required.  The  people  had 
a lighter  complexion  and  more  regular  features  than  the 


SHORES  OP  THE  WOOSUNG  RIVER 


295 


Qativos  of  the  southern  provinces,  and  in  lieu  of,  the  umhiella 
hat  wore  the  round  black  cap  of  the  Tartars. 

The  country  on  both  sides  of  the  river  is  a dead  level  of 
rich  alluvial  soil,  devoted  principally  to  the  culture  of  rice  and 
wheat.  The  cultivation  was  as  thorough  and  patient  as  any  I 
had  seen,  every  square  foot  being  turned  to  some  useful  ac- 
count. Even  the  sides  of  the  dykes  erected  to  check  inunda- 
tions were  covered  with  vegetables.  These  boundless  levels  are 
thickly  studded  with  villages  and  detached  houses,  all  of  which 
are  surrounded  with  fruit-trees.  I noticed  also  occasionally 
groves  of  willow  and  bamboo.  The  country,  far  and  wide,  is 
dotted  with  little  mounds  of  earth — the  graves  of  former 
generations.  They  are  scattered  over  the  fields  and  gardens 
in  a most  remarkable  manner,  to  the  great  detriment  of  the 
cultivators.  In  some  places  the  coffins  of  the  poor,  who  cannot 
afford  to  purchase  a resting-place,  are  simply  deposited  upon 
the  ground,  and  covered  with  canvas.  The  dwellings,  but  for 
their  peaked  roofs,  bore  some  resemblance  to  the  cottages  of 
the  Irish  peasantry.  They  were  mostly  of  wood,  plastered  and 
whitewashed,  and  had  an  appearance  of  tolerable  comfort 
The  people,  who  came  out  to  stare  in  wonder  at  the  great 
steamer  as  she  passed,  were  dressed  uniformly  in  black  or 
dark  blue.  Numerous  creeks  and  canals  extended  from  the 
river  into  the  plains,  but  I did  not  notice  a single  highway. 
The  landscape  was  rich,  picturesque  and  animated,  and  fully 
corresponded  with  what  I had  heard  of  the  dense  population 
and  careful  agriculture  of  China.  I was  struck  with  the  gene* 
ral  resemblance  between  the  Woosung  and  the  lower  Missis- 
sippi, and  the  same  thing  was  noticed  by  others  on  board. 

Before  sunset,  we  discovered  in  the  distance  the  factories 


296 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


and  flagstaffs  of  Shanghai.  The  town  had  a more  imposing 
appearance  than  I was  prepared  to  find.  The  river  makes  a 
sharp  bend  to  the  south-west  at  this  point,  and  over  the  tops  of 
the  trees  on  the  southern  bank,  we  could  see  a forest  of  masts, 
a mile  in  length,  belonging  to  the  native  junks.  The  number 
of  foreign  vessels  anchored  before  the  factories  did  not  exceed 
twenty.  Rounding  the  point,  we  swept  between  the  shipping,  past 
the  stately  row  of  tall  European  residences,  and  a neat  church 
(Gothic),  to  the  reach  in  front  of  the  American  Consulate,  one 
of  the  largest  and  handsomest  buildiogs  on  the  river..  The 
English  war-steamers  Hermes  and  Salamander,  and  the  brig 
Lily,  lay  anchored  there,  and  the  French  war-steamer  Cassini, 
a little  further  up  the  stream.  Beyond  them  commenced  the 
wilderness  of  junks,  packed  side  by  side  in  one  unbroken  mass. 
As  the  anchor  dropped  our  band  struck  up  “ Hail  Columbia 
followed  by  the  English  and  French  national  airs. 

Mr.  Cunningham  invited  the  Commissioner  and  his  suite  to 
take  rooms  at  the  Consulate,  where  that  splendid  hospitality 
which  distinguishes  the  foreign  communities  in  China  is  prac- 
tised to  its  fullest  extent.  We  found  various  and  contradictory 
rumors  afloat  with  regard  to  the  Chinese  rebels,  but  it  was  gen- 
erally believed  that  Nanking  had  fallen  into  their  hands.  The 
merchants  were  in  hourly  expectation  of  hearing  that  the  great 
city  of  Soo-Chow,  the  capital  of  the  silk-growing  district,  and 
only  seventy  miles  from  Shanghai,  had  been  invested. 


CHAPTER  XXIY. 


AN  ATTEMPT  TO  VISIT  NANKING 

Tbe  Obmmiss'oner  decides  to  visit  Nanking — Preparations  for  the  Toyage—Departure 
of  four  Japanese — The  Susquehanna  leaves — Woosung— Bush  Island  and  Tsung- 
Ming— We  strike  the  Blonde  Shoal— The  Chinese  Pilots— Escape  of  a Boat — Off  the 
Shoal— Mr.  Bennett’s  night  cruise  after  the  Boats — Unfavorable  Eeports— The  Ke> 
turn — End  of  the  Expedition— Successful  Trip  of  the  Susquehanna  in  the  Summer 
of  1854. 

Three  days  after  our  arrival,  the  .Commissioner  decided  to 
start  for  Nanking.  The  near  approach  of  the  rebel  forces  to 
the  foreign  settlement  of  Shanghai,  the  uncertainty  with  regard 
to  their  views  towards  foreigners,  and  the  utter  impossibility  of 
obtaining  reliable  accounts  from  the  seat  of  war  through  the 
Chinese  authorities,  led  him  to  this  step.  The  visit  was  pro- 
jected with  the  sole  view  of  obtaining  information,  that  he 
might  best  know  how  to  guard  the  interests  of  American  citi- 
zens in  China.  Like  the  representatives  of  England  and 
France  in  Shanghai,  he  determined  on  preserving  the  strictest 
neutrality. during  the  civil  war  then  raging  in  the  North.  But 
if,  as  all  accounts  concurred  in  representing,  Nanking  had 
already  fallen,  it  was  a matter  of  importance  that  the  rebel 
leaders  should  be  assured  of  this  neutrality  and  of  the 
13* 


298 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


necessity,  on  tlieir  part,  of  respecting  the  rights  of  foreign 
citizens.  The  adoption  of  this  course  was  rendered  still  more 
imperative  by  the  falsehoods  which  the  Chinese  authorities, 
and  especially  the  Taou-tai  (Governor)  of  Shanghai  had  pub- 
lished and  circulated  concerning  the  enlistment  of  foreign  aid. 

Two  hundred  tons  of  coal  were  taken  on  board  the  Susque- 
hanna, and  application  was  made  to  the  Taou-tai  for  native 
pilots  who  knew  the  river.  These  he  readily  furnished,  hoping 
perhaps  that  our  appearance  off  Nanking  would  be  interpreted 
to  the  advantage  of  the  Imperialists.  Hundreds  of  Chinese 
continued  to  visit  the  Susquehanna  up  to  the  hour  of  her  de- 
parture. Several  of  the  American  residents  made  application 
to  accompany  us  on  the  voyage,  but,  with  the  exception  of  Mr. 
Forbes,  no  other  passenger  was  taken  on  board.  Previous  to 
sailing,  four  of  the  Japanese  left  our  ship.  One  of  their 
countrymen — one  of  those  who  were  turned  back  from  Japan 
in  the  Morrison,  in  1837 — was  then  residing  in  Shanghai, 
and  he  promised  to  assist  them.  Neither  Capt.  Buchanan 
nor  the  Commissioner  had  any  authority  to  keep  them  on 
board.  They  desired  their  countryman,  Otokitchi,  to  say  that 
they  thanked  the  officers  and  men  of  the  ship  from  their  hearts, 
and  would  never  forget  their  kindness  toward  them.  Two  of 
them  wept  like  children  when  they  left. 

We  started  at  floodtide,  on  the  afternoon  of  the  1st  of 
April.  The  hund^  or  quay,  of  Shanghai  was  crowded  with 
spectators  of  our  departure.  We  were  two  hours  and  a half 
reaching  Woosung.  The  rich  plains  on  either  hand  were 
greener  and  more  beautiful  than  they  appeared  on  the  passage 
up.  The  willow  trees  planted  along  the  numerous  little  canals 
intersecting  the  country  were  rapidly  bursting  into  leaf.  In 


BUSH  ISLAND  AND  TSDNG-MING. 


299 


spite  of  these  tokens  of  spring,  a keen,  henumhing  wind  blew 
from  the  north-east,  and  the  cabin  was  not  comfortable  without 
fire.  There  is  perhaps  no  other  part  of  the  world  where  spring 
is  so  tardy.  We  crossed  the  bar  without  difficulty,  hut  after- 
wards had  to  thread  a fleet  of  junks,  filling  up  a reach  of  more 
than  half  a mile.  This  feat  was  admirably  managed,  without 
running  afoul  of  any  of  the  craft,  though  the  winding  channels 
between  them  were  scarcely  broader  than  our  beam.  The 
Susquehanna  obeyed  her  helm  as  readily  as  a ferry-boat.  We 
anchored  for  the  night  in  the  main  channel  of  the  Yang-tse- 
Kiang,  a mile  from  shore. 

At  daybreak,  the  ten  Chinese  boats  which  had  been 
engaged  for  the  purpose  of  going  ahead  to  feel  the  channel, 
started  in  advance.  We  hove  anchor  and  left  at  seven  o’clock. 
The  four  Chinese  pilots  were  on  deck,  seemingly  confident  of 
their  ability  to  carry  us  through.  Just  above  Woosung,  we 
passed  Bush  Island ; the  large  island  of  Tsung-Ming,  separat- 
ing the  northern  and  southern  mouths  of  the  Yang-tse-Kiang, 
was  visible  beyond  it  in  the  distance.  Both  of  these  islands 
have  been  formed  from  the  alluvial  deposits  of  the  river,  and 
are  yearly  increasing  in  size.  Capt.  Potter  (an  American 
pilot,  who  accompanied  us)  informed  me  that  ten  years  ago 
there  was  but  one  bush  on  the  smaller  island  (whence  its 
name),  and  not  an  inhabitant.  At  present  it  is  covered  with 
trees  and  thickly  studded  with  cottages.  Tsung-Ming,  a cen. 
tury  ago,  was  a sand-bar ; at  present  it  supports  a population 
of  six  hundred  thousand.  The  immense  deposits  brought 
down  by  the  Yang-tse-Kiang,  the  Hoang-Ho,  and  other  rivers, 
must  in  the  course  of  time  entirely  fill  up  the  mouth  of  the 
Yellow  Sea. 


300 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAJ(. 


Our  mosquito  fleet  was  still  visible,  running  rapidlj  ahead 
with  the  monsoon  filling  their  square  sails,  and  I was  looking 
through  a telescope  at  the  clusters  of  Chinese  who  were 
watching  us  from  the  shore,  when  the  ship  suddenly  struck 
upon  a shoal.  She  was  only  going  at  half-speed,  and  the 
engine  was  stopped  soon  enough  to  prevent  her  jamming  very 
hard  upon  the  sand.  Still,  there  she  stuck,  and  as  the  ebb-tide 
had  just  commenced,  every  effort  was  made  to  get  her  off  be- 
fore the  water  fell.  There  were  fourteen  feet  at  the  bows,  and 
three  and  one  fourth  fathoms  at  the  stern : the  bottom  hard 
sand.  The  wheels  were  backed  and  a hawser  sent  out  over 
the  stern,  to  warp  her  off,  but  without  avail.  The  place  where 
we  struck  proved  to  be  the  Blonde  Shoal,  twelve  or  fifteen  miles 
from  Woosung.  The  accident  was  entirely  owing  to  the  care- 
lessness or  treachery  of  the  principal  Chinese  pilot.  We  had 
boats  enough  to  have  sounded  out  for  us  all  the  shoals  as  far 
as  Harvey’s  Point,  but  he  insisted  on  sending  them  ahead, 
saying  that  he  was  perfectly  familiar  with  the  channel,  and  did 
not  require  their  services  for  a hundred  li  (thirty  miles)  fur- 
ther. He  put  on  an  offensive,  stately  air,  and  carried  his  head 
high  until  chastised  by  Mr.  Cunningham’s  comprador,  who 
accompanied  us  as  interpreter  and  commissary.  The  latter,  on 
receiving  an  impertinent  reply  to  a question  which  he  had 
asked  by  command  of  Capt.  Buchanan,  immediately  struck  the 
pilot  in  the  face,  and  brought  him  to  his  knees  in  supplication. 

When  it  was  found  we  could  not  get  off,  Capt.  Buchanan 
determined  to  send  the  Chinese  bum-boat,  which  accompanied 
us,  ahead  to  the  other  boats,  with  one  of  the  pilots.  But  the 
men,  instead  of  keeping  up  the  river,  immediately  made  all 
speed  for  the  shore.  One  of  the  brass  field-pieces  was  hauled 


GETTING  OFF  THE  SHOAL. 


30i 


to  the  stern,  brought  to  bear  on  her,  and  a few  shots  fired 
across  her  bows,  in  order  to  bring  her  back,  but  she  continued 
to  make  away,  although  the  balls  ploughed  up  the  sea  just  be- 
yond her.  It  happened  that  the  pilot  was  not  on  boards  as 
was  supposed,  but  had  remained  with  us,  though  in  great  fear 
for  his  life.  Mr.  Bennett,  Master  of  the  Susquehanna,  was 
then  sent  off  for  the  pilots,  in  one  of  the  ship’s  cutters.  At 
ebb-tide  we  had  but  eight  feet  water  under  our  bows  and 
seventeen  under  the  stern. 

At  midnight  on  Saturday  night  it  began  to  blow  very 
violently  from  the  north,  so  that  about  five  o’clock,  when  the 
tide  had  risen  a few  feet,  the  vessel  seemed  to  be  slowly  work- 
ing herself  loose.  The  foresail  was  bent  on,  and  she  immedi- 
ately  gave  evidence  of  feeling  it.  A few  backward  strokes  of 
the  wheels  urged  her  clear  of  the  shoal,  and  she  hung  buoy- 
antly in  deep  water.  But  in  the  distance  of  a few  ship’s 
lengths  the  water  suddenly  shoaled  again,  and  she  was  brought 
to  anchor  in  five  fathoms,  with  some  little  difficulty.  The 
utter  inefficiency  of  the  pilots  was  again  displayed  by  their  de- 
claring that  the  channel  was  on  the  right  of  the  shoal,  when 
our  own  soundings  the  day  previous  had  shown  that  it  was  on 
the  left  side. 

About  eight  o’clock,  Mr.  Bennett  made  his  appearance  in 
the  cutter.  He  and  his  crew  were  benumbed  with  cold,  hav- 
ing passed  the  whole  night  on  the  river.  After  running  about 
twenty  miles,  he  stood  in  toward  Harvey’s  Point,  at  the  north- 
ern extremity  of  Tsung-Ming,  where  the  fleet  was  to  have 
waited ; but  on  inquiring  of  some  fishermen,  learned  that  it 
had  gone  further  up  the  river.  About  ten  miles  further,  ho 
found  the  junks  at  anchor  in  a creek,  on  the  southern  bank 


302 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


By  the  time  they  were  collected  together,  it  was  ten  o’clock  at 
night.  Capt.  Potter  and  the  comprador  went  on  hoard  the 
boats,  which  were  ordered  to  follow  the  cutter,  and  return  to 
the  Susquehanna.  They  all  got  under  way  at  the  same  time, 
but  in  the  darkness  of  the  night  the  cutter  soon  lost  sight  of 
them.  She  grounded  repeatedly  on  the  shoals,  and  finally  got 
entangled  among  the  bamboo  fishing-stakes.  The  sea  continu- 
ing to  rise,  and  the  gale  to  blow  more  violently,  she  was 
obliged  to  come  to  anchor  until  morning,  when  she  put  off 
again  and  beat  down  to  us.  Capt.  Buchanan  and  the  Com- 
missioner decided,  on  hearing  Mr.  Bennett’s  report,  that  it 
was  expedient  to  return  to  Woosung.  The  necessity  of  put- 
ting back  was  keenly  regretted  by  all  on  board,  but  the  ex- 
treme peril  to  which  the  vessel  was  exposed,  in  case  the  voy- 
age was  continued,  left  no  other  alternative.  We  were  obliged 
to  wait  for  the  first  of  the  flood-tide,  to  run  down  to  Woosung, 
which  detained  us  until  four  o’clock.  In  the  mean  time,  Capt. 
Potter  and  the  comprador  arrived  with  the  other  boats.  The 
former  reported  that  no  dependence  could  be  placed  either  on 
the  chart  or  the  Chinese  pilots,  and  that  the  only  way  in 
which  the  Susquehanna  could  go  up  the  river,  would  be  to  re- 
survey  and  buoy  out  the  channel — a work  which  could  not  be 
accomplished  in  less  than  two  weeks.  The  failure  of  our  un- 
dertaking, the  results  of  which  promised  to  be  of  great  interest 
and  importance  at  the  time,  is  another  proof  of  the  unfitness  of 
large  steam  frigates  for  the  service  required  in  Chinese  waters. 
Two  small,  active  steamers,  such  as  the  English  possessed  in 
the  Hermes  and  Salamander,  would  do  more  work  than  a score 
of  unwieldy  leviathans. 

We  returned  down  the  river  the  way  we  came,  but  on  ap 


RETURN  TO  SHANGHAI. 


303 


proaching  Woosung  were  again  exposed  to  danger  through  the 
ignorance  of  the  pilots.  The  water  suddenly  shoaled,  in  spite  of 
their  assertion  that  we  were  in  the  deep  channel,  and  our  hull 
touched  just  as  the  engines  began  to  back  water.  We  got  off 
barely  in  time.  The  command  having  been  given  to  let  go  the 
starboard  anchor,  a seaman,  who  was  standing  upon  the  port 
anchor,  mistaking  the  order,  and  thinking  it  was  about  to  drop 
with  him,  sprang  into  the  river.  He  was  picked  up,  however, 
with  no  other  injury  than  a good  drenching. 

The  next  morning  we  were  delayed  for  some  time  in  cross- 
ing the  bar,  by  a large  fleet  of  grain-junks,  bound  outward  on 
their  way  to  Pekin.  A Portuguese  lorcha^  bearing  the  flag  of 
the  Taou-tai,  passed  us  on  her  way  up  the  Yang-tse-Kiang. 
The  Susquehanna’s  hull  touched  on  the  bar,  in  two  and  three 
quarter  fathoms,  but  the  engines  dragged  us  safely  over. 
Within  the  bar  lay  a still  larger  fleet  of  junks,  ready  to  pro- 
ceed to  Pekin.  Each  of  them  had  the  words  “ Kiang-narC'^ 
on  the  stern, — literally  “ South  of  the  River,”  i.  c.,  the  Yang- 
tse-Kiang.  A handsome  outward-bound  junk  bqre  the  poetical 
name  of  the  “ Ocean  Star.”  At  noon  we  were  again  at 
Shanghai,  and  dropped  anchor  in  the  old  position,  in  front  of 
the  American  Consulate. 

So  ended  the  expedition  to  Nanking. 


Note. — The  Smqmhanna  made  a second  attempt  to  reach  Nanking 
in  the  summer  of  1854,  after  her  return  from  Japan.  She  had  on  hoard  the 
Hon.  Robert  M’Lane,  successor  to  Col.  Marshal,  as  U.  S.  Commissioner  to 
China.  On  this  occasion,  the  small  steam-tug  Confucius  was  employed  to 
run  in  advance  of  the  Susquehanna  and  sound  out  the  channel.  After  passing 


304 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


Blonde  Shoal  no  serious  difficulty  was  experienced,  a depth  of  from  eight  to 
seventeen  fathoms  having  been  found  in  the  Yang-tse-Kiang,  as  far  as 
Nanking.  After  the  Commissioner  had  communicated  with  some  of  the 
rebel  chiefs,  and  the  object  of  the  voyage  was  accomplished,  a further  ex- 
ploration  of  the  river  was  made  as  far  as  Wu-hu,  a large  town  sixty  miles 
above  Nanking.  No  foreign  vessel  had  ever  before  advanced  beyond  the 
latter  city.  The  river  was  foimd  to  he  everywhere  broad  and  deep,  flowing 
through  superb  valleys ; the  soil  was  fertile  and  capable  of  supporting  an 
immense  population.  The  current  was  very  swift,  and  the  Susqu^nna,  on 
her  return,  frequently  ran  at  a speed  of  sixteen  or  seventeen  knots.  Her 
appearance,  especially  in  the  regions  beyond  Nanking,  created  the  greatest 
astonishment  among  the  Chinese,  thousands  of  whom  crowded  the  banks  as 
she  passed.  The  voyage  was  completed  with  entire  success,  no  accident  of 
any  kind  having  occurred 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

A SHANGHAI  JOURNAL. 


Life  in  Shanghai— The  Rebels  Expected— My  Journal— The  Fall  of  Nanking— The 
Grain  Trade — Soo-Chow  Threatened — Barbarities  at  Nanking— Rumors  Concern- 
ing the  Rebels— Capture  of  Lorchas— Threats  towards  Foreigners- Alarm  of  the 
Taou-tai — A Rebel  Proclamation — Imperial  Rewards  and  Pardons — Col.  Marshall's 
Proclamation — Nanking  Besieged  by  the  Imperial  Army — Flight  from  Shanghai— 
Sir  George  Bonham — Meetings  of  the  Foreign  Residents — Ransom  for  Shanghai — 
Soo-Chow  not  Taken — Uncertainty — Mr.  Meadows  at  Soo-Chow — Defensive  Works 
Commenced — Trouble  with  the  Men  of  Foo-Kien — Marauders  in  the  Country — 
Burning  of  Thieves — The  Foo-Kien  Grave-yard — Desertion  of  the  City — A Ru- 
mored Battle— Death  of  Tien-teh — Mr.  Meadows — Various  Rumors — Return  of  the 
Science — Destruction  of  Chin-kiang-foo — The  Excitement  Subsides. 


After  our  inglorious  return,  the  Embassy  was  again  shifted 
to  the  American  Consulate,  and  we  became  once  more  the 
guests  of  our  kind  friend,  Mr.  Cunningham.  I was  supplied 
with  a room  and  the  services  of  a young  Chinese  valet,  and 
having,  as  etiquette  prescribed,  made  the  first  calls  upon  the. 
American  and  English  residents,  received  in  due  course  of  time 
invitations  to  dinner  in  return.  The  presence  of  the  Susque-- 
hannay  with  a fine  hand  of  music  on  hoard,  was  the  occasion 
of  a round  of  festivities,  which  were  kept  up  with  more  or  less 
energy,  during  the  remainder  of  my  stay.  The  presence  of 
both  the  American  and  English  Commissioners,  and  of  five 
vessels  of  war  at  once,  was  an  unusual  event  for  Shanghai,  and 


306 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


in  spite  of  the  rumored  approach  of  the  rebels,  the  ignorance 
of  their  disposition  towards  foreigners,  and  the  anticipation  of 
an  assault,  society  there  had  never  before  been  so  gay  and  ani- 
mated. 

During  the  first  fortnight  of  April,  we  were  in  almost  daily 
expectation  of  the  appearance  of  the  vanguard  of  the  rebel 
army.  Each  hour  brought  a new  rumor,  and  each  day  led  to 
conclusions  and  conjectures  which  the  morrow  proved  to  be  un- 
founded. Although  the  true  rebellion  did  not  commence  until 
some  months  afterwards,  and  the  recollection  of  those  days 
has  doubtless  been  obliterated  from  the  memories  of  the  foreign 
residents  of  Shanghai,  by  the  more  stirring  events  which  fol- 
lowed, they  were  sufficiently  exciting  and  interesting  at  the  time. 
I know  no  better  way  of  giving  a picture  of  the  uncertainty  of 
all  news  in  China,  than  by  transcribing  a few  pages  from  a 
journal  which  I kept  at  the  time : 


April  5th,  1858. 

At  length  we  have  positive  news  that  Nanking  has  fallen. 
The  Taou-tai  of  Shanghai  admits  it,  which  is  a certain  sign  of 
Its  correctness.  The  information  was  received  yesterday  by 
M.  de  Montigny,  the  French  Consul,  through  the  Catholic 
Missionaries  at  Nanking,  but  the  fact  was  doubted  by  most  of 
the  merchants  here  until  the  Taou-tai  confirmed  it.  In  the 
final  assault,  20,000  Tartars  were  slain.  The  streets  were 
blocked  up  with  corpses,  and  1,000  cash  each  was  paid  by  the 
victors  for  their  removal.  Twenty  thousand  rebel  troops  were 
left  to  garrison  the  city,  and  a body  of  40,000  was  dispatched 
to  intercept  the  imperial  troops  on  their  way  from  Pekin,  to 
raise  the  siege.  The  rebels,  it  is  said,  will  establish  their 


THE  GRAIN  TRADE SOO-CHOW  THREATENED. 


807 


capital  at  Nanking,  and  for  the  remainder  of  the  year  will 
content  themselves  with  consolidating  their  power  in  the 
South  and  West. 

One  circumstance,  which  has  operated  in  their  favor,  is 
the  almost  total  destruction  of  the  grain  trade  between  the 
South  and  North,  by  means  of  the  Grand  Canal.  This  has 
been  caused  within  a few  years  by  inundation  between  the 
Yang-tse-Kiang  and  the  Hoang-ho,  which  have  damaged  the 
Canal  to  such  an  extent  as  to  render  it  impassable  for  the 
larger  class  of  vessels.  The  immense  transportations  of  grain, 
for  the  supply  of  the  northern  portion  of  China,  which  were 
formerly  made  entirely  through  this  channel,  are  now  trans- 
ferred to  the  coasting-junks,  which  sail  at  this  season  from 
Shanghai,  Chapoo  and  Ningpo. 

The  city  of  Soo-Chow,  it  is  said,  has  paid  a ransom  of 
700,000  taels,  to  be  exempted  from  capture  and  pillage. 
There  seems  to  be  no  doubt  of  this,  as  business  is  beginning  to 
revive  there,  and  several  Soo-Chow  families,  who  had  fled  to 
this  place,' returned  last  night  to  their  homes.  It  is  not  yet 
known  whether  a descent  on  Shanghai  is  meditated,  but  word 
reached  us  yesterday  that  Tien-teh  does  not  intend  to  interfere 
in  any  way  with  foreigners  in  China. 

April  6th. 

Yesterday  Mr.  Forbes  conversed  with  a native,  who  re- 
turned in  one  of  the  Taou-tai’s  lorcJias  from  Nanking.  The  man 
is  known  to  the  Americans  here,  who  place  full'  reliance  on  his 
communication.  He  states  that,  after  the  taking  of  Nanking, 
the  city  was  given  up  to  sack  and  slaughter,  during  three  days, 
and  20,000  Tartars — men,  women  and  children — were  massa- 


308 


INDIA.  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


cred.  The  Viceroy  was  quartered  and  his  remains  nailed  to 
the  four  gates  of  the  city.  Previous  to  his  death  his  veins  were 
opened  and  his  blood  made  to  flow  into  a large  vessel  of  water 
which  the  conquerors  drank.  His  daughter,  a girl  of  nineteen, 
was  stripped  in  the  public  square,  bound  upon  a cross,  and  her 
heart  cut  out.  Many  of  the  Tartar  officers  were  thrown  into 
boiling  oil,  or  tied  to  stakes  surrounded  with  bundles  of  oiled 
straw,  and  slowly  roasted  to  death.  The  recital  of  these  atro- 
cities has  aroused  the  utmost  horror  and  indignation  among 
the  foreign  residents.  They  were  previously,  almost  to  a man, 
disposed  to  rejoice  at  the  success  of  the  rebels. 

That  the  Viceroy  has  been  slain,  is  beyond  a doubt.  Col. 
Marshall  has  received  the  news  officially,  through  the  Grovernor 
of  Soo-chow,  upon  whom  the  functions  of  Viceroy  now  de- 
volve, and  who  is  supposed  to  possess  the  seals;  though  an- 
other account  says  they  were  lost  at  Nanking.  The  ransom 
paid  by  the  merchants  of  Soo-Chow  only  exempts  the  city  from 
pillage.  The  rebels  announce  their  determination  to  attack  it, 
and  the  gates  have  been  closed  for  several  days. 

The  rumors  afloat  to-day  are  still  more  alarming.  The  re- 
bels are  stated  to  be  marching  to  Hang-Chow,  a large  city 
about  midway  between  here  and  Ningpo,  at  the  head  of  the 
intervening  gulf.  Their  proclamations  have  been  received  by 
the  Governor  of  Soong-Keang,  a city  only  forty  miles  from 
this  place,  and  it  is  also  supposed  that  they  have  been  private- 
ly sent  here,  to  the  native  merchants.  Ti'en-teh  was  to  have 
been  formally  inaugurated  as  Emperor  yesterday,  at  Nanking 
Among  the  tribute  sent  from  Soo-Chow  were  1,000  pieces  of 
yellow  sillk  to  be  used  on  the  occasion. 

The  Taou-tai  this  morning  sent  word  that  twenty  of  the 


CAPTURE  OF  LORCHA8. 


309 


lorchas  which  he  had  dispatched  to  the  relief  of  Nanking  haa 
fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  rebels ; who,  he  feared,  having 
the  papers  in  their  possession,  would  attempt  to  pass  the  Cus 
tom  House  at  Woosung  under  false  colors,  and  gain  possession 
of  that  port.  A lorcha,  which  he  had  sent  up  a week  ago, 
with  $100,000,  came  hack  with  an  acknowledgment  of  its  re- 
ception, signed  bj’’  one  of  the  rebel  chiefs.  It  is  reported  that 
the  captain,  or  supercargo,  quietly  delivered  the  money  and 
took  the  receipt,  thinking  it  was  all  right.  The  merchants  here 
hinted  to  the  Taou-tai  that  the  sooner  all  his  grain-junks  were 
cleared  for  Pekin,  the  better,  and  he  acted  upon  this  sugges- 
tion. The  river  to-day  was  crowded  with  sails,  and  at  least 
sixty  or  seventy  junks  dropped  down  to  Woosung.  There  are 
still  upwards  of  a thousand  in  port,  and  the  foreigners  are 
anxious  that  they  should  all  be  removed.  In  case  of  an  attack 
they  would  undoubtedly  be  fired  by  the  rebels,  and  set  adrift 
to  float  down  upon  the  foreign  shipping. 

Mr.  Meadows,  the  interpreter  of  the  British  embassy,  has 
been  informed  by  a Chinese  banker  that  the  rebels  have  ad- 
dressed the  native  inhabitants  of  Shanghai,  bidding  them  be 
assured,  as  it  is  not  them,  but  the  foreign  population,  whom 
they  intend  to  attack.  After  the  rumors  of  Tien-teh’s  Chris- 
tianity and  his  pacific  intentions  towards  foreigners,  this 
news  is  rather  startling,  but  there  may  be  some  reason  for 
crediting  it.  The  fact  that  the  foreigners  here  have  received 
no  communication  from  the  rebels  is  in  itself  suspicious — the 
custom  of  the  latter  having  invariably  been  to  send  the  pro- 
clamations in  advance  of  their  coming.  Those  who  write  upon 
their  doors  the  word  “ Obedience^''  are  saved  from  pillage. 


310 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


Apnl  1th. 

This  has  been  a day  of  excitement.  About  noon  we  re- 
ceived intelligence  that  an  attack  would  certainly  be  made  on 
Shanghai.  There  were  rumors  of  a proclamation  which  stated 
that  the  Chinese  inhabitants  had  nothing  to  fear,  but  that  the 
Taou-tai  must  be  given  up,  as  they  intended  to  punish  him  for 
Bending  supplies  to  Nanking.  The  foreign  residents  would  not 
be  interfered  with,  provided  they  gave  security  not  to  carry  on 
the  opium  trade.  There  are  now  vessels  lying  at  Woosung, 
laden  with  opium  to  the  amount  of  $3,000,000.  This  rumor, 
if  true,  would  stir  up  the  English  to  more  active  measures.  Sir 
George  Bonham’s  avowed  policy  at  present  being  a masterly 
inactivity. 

The  Taou-tai  is  alarmed.  He  called  to-day  upon  the 
English  and  American  Consuls.  He  denies  tha^  Soo-Chow  is 
fallen,  says  his  wives  and  treasures  are  still  in  the  city,  but 
that,  on  the  approach  of  danger,  he  will  remove  them  to  the 
Custom  House,  in  the  midst  of  the  foreign  settlement.  About 
three  o’clock  several  English  officers  imagined  they  heard  the 
report  of  cannon  at  Woosung.  I mounted  to  the  roof  of  the 
Consulate,  whence  the  shipping  at  that  port  is  discernible,  but 
could  perceive  no  signs  of  firing.  However,  the  English 
deemed  it  expedient  to  land  140  men  with  three  or  four  field- 
pieces,  and  had  companies  of  armed  sailors  patrolling  the  streets 
in  the  evening. 

A document  has  at  last  been  procured,  which  was  taken' 
from  one  of  the  gates  of  Soo-Chow.  It  is  issued  in  the  name 
of  two  of  the  rebel  generals,  declaring  their  intention  to  take 
Chin-Keang-foo,  Soo-Chow,  Hang-Chow,  Soong-Keang  and 
Shanghai  The  Mantchows,  it  says,  are  utterly  annihilated, 


IMPERIAL  REWARDS  AND  PARDONS. 


311 


and  as  for  the  foreigners,  they  are  not  human  beings.  The  in- 
habitants of  the  three  first- named  cities  have  nothing  to  fear ; 
but  all  good  Chinese  residing  in  the  two  last  should  imme- 
diately remove  to  the  distance  of  100  li  (33  miles),  until  the 
army  has  passed  through,  as  it  is  by  no  means  certain  that 
there  will  not  be  fighting  at  Shanghai.  This  document  ex- 
plains the  great  panic  of  the  Chinese  to-day,  and  their  hasty 
emigration  from  the  city,  which  has  been  going  on  without  in- 
terruption, from  sunrise  to  the  present  hour  (11  p.  m.).  The 
streets  are  crowded  with  porters,  carrying  off*  chests  and  boxes 
of  valuables. 

Mr.  Taylor,  an  American  Missionary,  showed  me  some 
translations  from  the  Pekin  Gazette^  from  which  it  is  evident 
that  the  Imperial  Court  is  in  great  consternation.  The  Em- 
peror declares  his  anxiety  is  so  great  that  he  can  neither  eat 
nor  sleep.  The  capture  of  Woo-Chang-foo  and  Ngan-King  is 
announced,  but  no  mention  is  made  of  the  siege  of  Nanking. 
The  Taou-tai  of  this  place  is  to  be  promoted  for  his  loyalty. 
Several  Generals,  who  were  slain  hy  the  rebels^  are  promoted  to 
the  rank  of  Governor,  and  others  who  ran  away,  but  died  after- 
wards^ are,  on  that  account,  absolved  from  the  punishment  due 
to  their  cowardice ! So  imbecile  and  absurd  a Court  as  that 
of  China  never  before  governed  a great  Empire.  Its  duration 
or  overthrow  is  a matter  of  complete  indifference. 

Col.  Marshall  drew  up  a proclamation  this  evening,  to  be 
issued  by  the  representatives  of  France  and  America,  since  Sir 
George  Bonham  refuses  to  co-operate.  It  is  a brief  but  forcible 
paper,  declaring  that,  security  of  life  and  property  having  been 
assured  to  the  citizens  of  both  countries  on  the  faith  of  trea- 
ties with  the  Emperor  of  China,  no  invading  army  could  be 


312 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


permitted  to  occupy  tlie  foreign  settlement  here,  or  exact  a 
tribute  from  tbe  inhabitants.  Furthermore,  that  the  pillage 
of  Shanghai  would  endanger  the  foreign  residents,  and  would 
be  resisted.  With  regard  to  the  contest  now  waging,  a strict 
and  impartial  neutrality  would  be  preserved.  It  is  proposed 
to  forward  this  proclamation  to  the  rebels  to-morrow. 

April  9th. 

Yesterday  a dispatch  was  received,  to  the  effect  that  Nan- 
king had  been  invested  by  the  Imperial  troops,  and  that  the  re- 
bel forces  had  gone  back  from  Soo-Chow  for  its  relief  It  was 
addressed  to  the  Taou-tai  by  Eleang-Yung,  a Tartar  General 
who  appears  to  have  acted  bravely  at  the  taking  of  Woo-Chang- 
foo.  According  to  the  proclamation  of  the  Taou-tai,  this  gen- 
eral arrived  before  Nankin  on  the  31st  of  March,  in  advance 
of  the  main  body  of  the  Imperial  troops.  He  calls  upon  the 
inhabitants  of  the  province  not  to  be  alarmed,  as  the  rebels 
will  be  exterminated  to  a man.  Now  the  proclamation  of  Lo 
and  W’ang,  the  two  rebel  generals,  states  that  Tien-teh  was 
crowned  Emperor  at  Nanking  on  the  31st  of  March,  and  it  is 
unlikely  that  both  events  occurred  at  the  same  time.  Notwith- 
standing the  proclamation  of  the  Taou-tai  the  emigration  from 
the  city,  yesterday,  was  more  active  than  ever.  The  bund 
(quay)  and  streets  were  crowded  with  porters,  conveying  the 
goods  and  treasures  of  the  wealthy  class,  who  are  flying  for 
refuge  to  the  villages  in  the  country. 

No  proclamation  has  yet  been  issued  by  the  foreign  repre- 
sentatives. Sir  George  Bonham  yesterday  sent  around  the  draft 
of  one,  which  differed  in  no  material  point  from  that  of  Col. 
Marshall,  except  that  it  was  more  diffuse,  and  carefully  avoided 


MEETINGS  OF  THE  FOREIGN  RESIDENTS. 


313 


speaking  of  the  rebel  forces.  In  order  to  secure  the  consent  of 
all  to  a single  declaration,  Col.  Marshall  amalgamated  the  two, 
but  Sir  George  still  refuses  to  co-operate.  M.  de  Montigny 
has  subscribed  to  the  American  proclamation,  which  will  pro- 
bably be  issued  this  morning.  The  English  still  keep  a body 
of  armed  sailors  on  shore,  and  on  board  all  the  vessels  of  war 
the  usual  drill  with  small  arms  is  carried  on  every  day. 

Yesterday  afternoon  the  English  and  American  residents 
met  at  their  respective  Consulates  to  adopt  measures  of  defence 
Twenty-seven  Americans  came  together  and  discussed  the  mat 
ter,  in  true  American  style : each  one  wanted  to  have  his  own 
way,  and  only  ten  subscribed  to  Mr.  Cunningham’s  proposals 
that  a company  should  be  formed,  armed  and  exercised.  Sev- 
eral of  the  Missionaries  were  quite  ready  to  enter  into  this 
arrangement,  and  one  of  them,  who  is  a graduate  of  West 
Point,  offered  to  undertake  the  task  of  drilling  them.  The 
English  acted  with  more  unanimity,  and  the  most  of  them 
subscribed  their  names  to  a similar  proposal. 

The  Chinese  merchants  of  Shanghai  have  made  up  the 
sum  of  $340,000  for  the  ransom  of  the  city.  Yesterday  a 
deputation  from  them  was  sent  off  to  Tien-teh,  to  remain 
with  him  as  hostages  for  the  payment,  until  the  city  shall  be 
taken.  It  is  said  that  the  Taou-tai  himself  subscribed  largely 
to  the  sum.  Several  of  the  “ long-haired  rebels”  are  reported 
to  be  in  the  city,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  their  spies  are  al- 
ready here.  Fifteen  hundred  desperadoes  from  the  province 
of  Foo-Kien  are  wailing  the  moment  of  attack,  to  commence 
pillaging  ; but  the  Chinese  who  now  remain  have  the  impres- 
sion that  the  Americans  and  French  will  defend  the  city. 

14 


314 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


April  IQith. 

We  have  now  come  to  the  conclusion  that  for  the  present 
we  have  no  reason  to  fear  an  attack  on  Shanghai.  The  army 
which  was  marching  upon  Soo-Chow  has  not  yet  made  its  ap- 
pearance before  that  city,  having  probably  gone  back  to  raise 
the  siege  of  Nanking.  Since  the  Taou-tai’s  proclamation  no 
further  news  has  been  received,  but  the  foreign  residents  are 
satisfied  that  they  are  safe  for  at  least  ten  days  longer.  The 
Chinese  continue  to  flock  out  of  the  city,  though  not  to  such 
an  extent  as  during  the  previous  two  days.  Now,  since  the 
alarm  has  subsided,  the  English  have  begun  to  adopt  active 
measures  of  defence.  Yesterday  afternoon  they  had  forty  or 
fifty  sailors  at  work,  throwing  up  a three-gun  redoubt,  at  the 
northern  end  of  the  race-course.  The  sailors  and  marines 
were  drilled  in  artillery  practice  at  the  same  time,  on  the  green 
in  the  centre  of  the  course. 

To-day  the  news  of  the  advance  of  the  Imperial  army 
upon  Nanking  is  confirmed.  Mr.  Meadows  left  here  last  night 
at  midnight,  for  the  rebel  camp,  disguised  as  a Chinaman.  He 
took  along  a European  dress,  to  wear  after  arriving,  and  is  un- 
derstood to  possess  an  order  from  the  Taou-tai  to  the  local 
authorities  on  the  road,  to  facilitate  his  progress. 


April  IZth, 

We  are  still  in  the  same  delightful  state  of  uncertainty,  in 
regard  to  the  future.  The  rebels  and  the  Imperial  forces, 
commanded  severally  by  Tien-teh  and  Heang-Yuen,  have  met, 
and,  according  to  Chinese  custom,  appointed  day  before  yester- 
day for  the  battle : so  that  we  may  expect  to  hear  something 
in  two  days  more — but  it  is  too  much  to  hope  that  we  will  get 


DEFENSIVE  WORKS. 


315 


the  truth,  or  any  thing  near  it.  On  Monday  evening,  a lettei 
was  received  from  Mr.  Meadows,  who  has  reached  Soo-Chow. 
He  found  the  city  perfectly  tranquil.  The  deputation  of  mer- 
chants commissioned  to  take  the  ransom  to  Tien-teh,  had  re- 
turned after  proceeding  as  far  as  Chin-Kiang-foo,  where  they 
found  a body  of  the  Imperial  troops.  They  were  obliged  to 
hasten  back,  to  prevent  the  ransom  from  falling  into  the  wrong 
hands.  This  corroborates  the  report  of  the  rebels  having  re- 
treated from  Chin-Kiang-foo  and  fallen  back  upon  Nanking,  in 
order  to  concentrate  their  strength  for  an  encounter  with 
Heang- Yuen’s  army. 

Meanwhile  the  work  of  defence  goes  on.  The  English 
Lave  taken  it  upon  themselves  to  construct  a double  ditch  from 
Soo-Chow  creek  across  to  the  north-western  angle  of  the  city 
wall,  covering  the  rear  of  the  foreign  settlement.  An  attack, 
if  made  at  all,  will  most  probably  be  made  from  the  native 
city,  across  a creek  which  is  commanded  by  the  big  guns  of 
the  Susquehanna.  At  a meeting  held  at  the  English  Consu- 
late yesterday,  the  resident  merchants  decided  to  bear  the  ex- 
penses of  the  work.  Several  hundred  coolies  have  been  em- 
ployed upon  the  ditch,  which  is  a slight  affair,  that  would  not 
resist  a charge  of  European  cavalry,  but  may  prove  suflBicient 
against  Chinese.  The  breastwork  runs  directly  across  the 
race-course,  and  to-day  has  reached  the  graveyard  of  the  men 
of  Foo-Kien,  a body  of  whom  came  to  stop  proceedings.  The 
Chinese  have  a great  regard  for  the  graves  of  their  ancestors, 
which,  indeed,  are  the  only  objects  for  which  they  exhibit  the 
least  reverence.  These  Foo-Kien  people  are  a fierce,  disorder- 
ly set,  and  the  natives  of  Shanghai  are  in  great  dread  of  them. 
The  assistant  Engineer  of  the  English  steamer  Salamander 


316 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


mysteriously  disappeared  two  days  ago,  and  lias  not  returned. 
When  last  seen  on  Monday  night,  he  was  quarrelling  with 
some  Foo-Kien  boatmen,  and  it  is  now  surmised  that  they 
murdered  him.  Several  dead  bodies  have  floated  down  the 
river  within  a few  days. 

We  hear  already  of  bands  of  marauders  in  the  vicinity. 
The  magistrates  of  the  different  districts  have  formed  a league 
for  their  protection,  and  have  resolved  to  burn  alive  any 
man  who  is  caught  plundering.  Two  cases  have  occurred  with- 
in a few  days.  On  Monday  a band  of  forty  robbers  entered  a 
village  about  two  miles  from  here  and  demanded  a quantity  of 
rice  from  the  inhabitants — which  was  paid.  Two  of  the  men, 
however,  lingered  behind,  and  demanded  of  one  of  the  villagers 
that  they  should  be  paid  20,000  cash  (about  $14).  The  man 
said  he  had  but  8,000  cash  in  the  house,  which  he  would  give 
them.  While  pretending  to  get  it  he  found  means  to  whisper 
to  a coolie,  who  went  out  and  summoned  the  people.  The 
house  was  surrounded,  the  robbers  taken  and  condemned  to  be 
burned.  One  of  them  was  placed  beneath  the  pile,  and  se- 
curely bound.  The  other  was  laid  upon  the  top,  and  several 
times  burst  the  cords  which  held  him  and  sprang  from  the 
flames.  He  was  relentlessly  dragged  back,  until  all  power  of 
resistance  was  lost.  In  a village  about  ten  miles  from  here, 
four  Canton  men  were  found  plundering  a pawnbroker’s  shop, 
and  suffered  the  same  horrible  fate.  In  every  village  is  sus- 
pended a gong,  which  is  to  be  sounded  in  case  of  an  attack. 

It  is  from  these  bands  of  desperadoes  that  the  older  residents 
anticipate  trouble.  The  Mission  Establishment  beyond  Soo- 
Chow  creek  has  been  furnished  with  arms  by  Capt.  Buchanan, 
and  its  inmates  keep  up  a watch  at  night.  Mr.  Yates,  of  the 


TROUBLE  WITH  THE  MEN  OF  FOO-KIEN 


317 


Baptist  Mission,  wbo  had  placed  his  family  on  board  one  of 
the  merchant  vessels,  has  returned  to  his  house.  In  passing 
through  the  city  yesterday,  I noticed  many  streets  which  were 
almost  entirely  deserted.  Mr.  Shortrede,  the  Editor  of  the 
Friend  of  Ghina^  who  came  down  from  the  hills  two  days  ago, 
met  two  hundred  boats  on  their  way  to  Soo-Chow,  laden  with 
people  and  property. 

April  \6th. 

The  difficulty  with  the  Foo-Kien  men  has  not  yet  been 
settled.  On  the  Chinese  coolies  being  prevented  by  a band  of 
them  from  digging  up  the  graves,  the  English  brought  a field- 
piece,  loaded  it,  and  threatened  to  fire  in  case  they  did  not 
retire.  For  a time  they  dispersed,  but  soon  returned  in  much 
greater  numbers.  It  is  now  said  that  they  have  decided  to 
allow  the  breastwork  to  be  thrown  up,  in  case  pledges  are  given 
by  the  English,  that  when  the  danger  is  over  the  earth  shall 
be  restored  to  its  former  place.  This  demand  will  be  complied 
with  and  the  work  will  proceed,  but  as  the  embankments  are 
made  upon  the  line  of  a proposed  road  which  the  merchants 
have  been  endeavoring  to  open,  it  may  be  doubted  whether 
the  latter  will  keep  faith  with  the  men  of  Foo-Kien.  On  my 
visit  to  some  American  Missionaries  in  the  city  yesterday,  I 
was  struck  with  its  air  of  desolation.  There  are  streets  where 
hardly  a house  is  inhabited.  Where  we  found  crowds  on  our 
first  arrival,  there  is  now  scarcely  a single  soul  to  be  seen.  I 
have  no  doubt  that  50,000  persons  have  emigrated  from  the 
city  within  the  past  two  or  three  weeks. 

News  reached  us  yesterday,  that  a battle  had  been  fought 


318 


INDIA,  CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


before  the  walls  of  Nanking,  in  which  the  advantage  rested  witli 
the  Imperial  troops.  Great  numbers  were  slain  on  both  sides, 
and  the  revolutionary  army  had  retired  within  the  walls.  A 
letter  was  also  received  from  Mr.  Meadows,  who  is  still  at  Soo- 
Chow,  where  he  intends  remaining.  He  repeats  the  stories 
which  had  already  reached  us,  with  the  additional  fact  that 
Tien-teh  is  actually  dead,  as  was  surmised  by  some,  and  that 
the  name  of  the  present  chief  is  Tae-ping.  Mr.  Meadows  ap 
pears  in  European  costume,  and  has  received  no  molestation. 
He  has  put  himself  in  connection  with  the  mandarins,  and 
expects  to  be  protected.  The  celebrated  pagodas  on  Golden 
Island  in  the  Yang-tse-Kiang,  opposite  Chin-Kiang-foo,  are 
said  to  have  been  entirely  destroyed  by  the  rebels,  and  all  the 
Buddhist  priests  beheaded.  If  this  be  true,  the  library  of 
Chinese  Literature  on  the  island — one  of  the  most  valuable 
in  the  Empire — ^has  probably  perished  also. 


April  Vlth. 

Flying  rumors  from  Nanking,  favorable  to  the  rebels,  now 
begin  to  reach  us.  It  is  quite  evident,  from  the  tenor  of  the 
various  reports,  that  the  Imperialists  have  at  least  gained  no 
success.  An  intelligent  Chinaman,  who  was  on  board  one  of 
the  Taou-tai’s  lorchas,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Nanking,  states 
that  the  accounts  we  had  received  of  the  valor  of  Heang-Yuen, 
the  Tartar  general,  are  without  foundation.  The  people  have 
unbounded  confidence  in  the  rebels,  whom  he  represents  as  just 
and  humane  in  their  dealings  with  them.  Heang-Yuen,  he  says, 
keeps  aloof  and  avoids  giving  battle.  A native  messenger 
dispatched  by  the  Eev.  Mr.  Taylor,  about  two  weeks  ago,  r^ 


319 


RETURN  OF  THE  BARK  “ SCIENCE.” 

burned  yesterday,  having  succeeded  in  reaching  Nanking.  His 
account  is  greatly  exaggerated;  he  says  there  are  500,000 
Tartar  troops  around  Nanking,  and  an  equal  number  of  rebels 
within  the  walls.  The  latter  never  intended  to  have  advanced 
upon  Shanghai,  and  the  report  of  their  march  towards  Soo-Chow 
after  the  taking  of  Nanking  was  occasioned  by  the  flight  of  the 
Imperial  troops  in  that  direction. 

The  American  bark  Science^  despatched  by  the  Taou-tai  to 
the  relief  of  the  Imperial  fleet,  arrived  at  Woosung  on  Thurs- 
day night,  and  Capt.  Roundy  was  here  at  breakfast  yesterday 
morning.  He  only  ascended  the  Yang-tse-Kiang  seventy-five 
miles,  and  attributes  his  'difficulties  entirely  to  the  Chinese 
pilots.  There  is  water  enough  for  the  largest  vessels  in  the 
channel,  which,  however,  is  narrow  and  tortuous.  A letter 
was  received  last  night  from  Capt.  Bush,  of  the  schooner 
Dewan^  which  had  reached  Chin-Kiang-foo.  Hq  states  that  he 
had  landed  and  walked  through  the  city,  which  was  entirely 
deserted — ^not  a soul  to  be  seen.  The  inhabitants  had  all  gone 
to  Nanking,  but  under  what  circumstances,  he  does  not  inform 
us.  A letter  was  also  received  from  Mr.  Meadows,  who  had 
been  deserted  by  all  his  servants,  and  was  unable  to  procure 
a boat  to  proceed  further. 

The  foreign  residents  now  no  longer  apprehend  an  attack, 
but  the  native  merchants  are  still  in  a state  of  alarm. 


The  period  covered  by  these  extracts  from  my  journal  was 
the  most  exciting  portion  of  my  residence  at  Shanghai.  After 
the  first  alarm  had  subsided,  the  fugitive  Chinese  returned, 
trade  resumed  its  usual  course,  and  the  place  enjoyed  several 
months  of  comparative  quiet.  During  the  following  year 


320 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


1854,  however,  all  that  we  had  anticipated  in  the  spnng 
of  1853  actually  came  to  pass.  The  city  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  rebels,  and  the  defence  the  foreign  merchants  had 
thrown  up  as  a protection  against  them,  served,  singularly 
enough,  to  protect  themselves  from  the  assaults  of  the  Tm 
perialists. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

A CHINESE  PROMENADE. 


Chinese  and  Foreigners  at  Shanghai— Situation  of  the  City — ^A  Chinese  Proirenada- 
Bnrying-Gronnds— Money  for  the  Dead — A Baby  Tower — The  Ningpo  Hons^ 
Coffins— Chinese  Gypsies— A Street  of  the  Suburbs — The  City  Gate— A Chinese 
Pawnbroker’s  Shop — A Temple — The  Statue  of  Boodh — A Priest  at  his  Devotions 
— Stenches  of  the  Streets — Beggars — Shops — View  of  the  Tea-Garden — Chinese 
Gamblers— An  Artistic  Mountebank — The  Baptist  Chapel— Scene  from  its  Tower — 
The  Hills — Fanciful  Signs — Missionary  Labors  in  China — Apathy  of  the  People— A 
Chinese  Residence — The  Library— The  City  Prison— Torture  of  the  Prisoners — A 
Bath  House— Character  of  the  Mongol  Form— The  Tutelar  Deity  of  Shanghai— 
Boodh  at  Sunset — Kite  Flying. 


During  the  two  weeks  chronicled  in  the  foregoing  journal 
notwithstanding  the  warlike  excitement  which  was  more  or 
less  shared  hy  all,  I devoted  several  days  to  visiting  the 
Chinese  city  and  the  points  of  interest  in  its  environs.  Unlike 
Canton  and  the  other  cities  of  the  South,  Shanghai  is  thrown 
open  without  restriction  to  the  foreigner,  and  he  may  even 
wander  unmolested  for  a distance  of  thirty  or  forty  miles  into 
the  interior.  The  natives  there,  instead  of  despising  the  “ out- 
side barbarians,”  look  up  to  them  with  profound  respect ; the 
cry  of  '''•  Fan-liwei ! (foreign  devil !)  which  pursues  you  in 
Canton,  is  never  heard  in  the  streets ; the  stupid  faces  of  the 

14* 


322 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


populace  are  turned  towards  you  with  an  expression  of  good 
will,  and  there  is  no  hindrance  whatever  to  your  studies  of  the 
peculiarities  of  Chinese  character  and  habits.  I was  soon  quite 
satisfied  with  the  extent  of  my  observations.  Superficial  as 
they  were,  I found  nothing  in  the  subject  sufi&cient  to  tempt 
me  into  a further  endurance  of  the  disgusting  annoyances  of  a 
Chinese  city.  I shall  ask  the  reader’s  patience  during  the 
promenade  on  which  I propose  to  take  him,  since  it  is  for  the 
first  and  last  time.  The  scenes  we  shall  witness  are  curious,  in 
spite  of  their  disagreeable  features,  and  a conscientious  trav- 
eller must  describe  things  as  he  sees  them.  But,  first  let  me 
give  some  necessary  details  of  the  topography  of  Shanghai 
The  city  lies  upon  the  right  bank  of  the  Whang-po  (or,  as  it  is 
called  by  foreigners,  the  Woosung)  Biver,  about  fourteen  miles 
above  its  junction  with  the  Yang-tse-Kiang.  The  river  here 
makes  a sharp  bend  to  the  south,  so  that  the  city  faces  the  east. 
The  Chinese  town,  which  is  walled,  is  in  the  form  of  a semi- 
circle, with  its  chord  upon  the  river.  It  is  about  five  miles  in 
circumference,  and  contains  a population  of  300,000.  To  the 
north  of  this,  and  separated  from  it  by  a small  creek,  is  the 
foreign  settlement,  which  extends  along  the  river  for  three- 
quarters  of  a mile.  The  houses  are  large  and  handsome,  fre- 
quently good  examples  of  the  simpler  forms  of  the  Palladian 
style,  and  surroimded  by  gardens.  Along  the  water  is  a broad 
quay,  called  the  “ hund^''  (from  an  Indian  word,)  which  is  the 
evening  resort  of  the  residents,  and  the  great  centre  of  business 
and  gossip.  The  foreign  community,  exclusive  of  the  mission- 
aries, consists  of  about  170  persons,  14  of  whom  are  ladies. 
It  is,  beyond  dispute,  the  most  cheerful,  social  and  agreeable 
community  in  China. 


BURYIXG-GROUNDS MONEY  FOR  THE  DEAD. 


323 


I 'was  greatly  indebted  to  tbe  Rev.  Charles  Taylor,  of  the 
Methodist,  and  the  Rev.  M.  T.  Yates,  of  the  Baptist  Mission, 
for  pilotage  through  the  mazes  of  Shanghai,  and  explanations 
of  the  many  curious  scenes  we  witnessed  by  the  way.  Although 
it  required  several  short  excursions  to  make  me  familiar  with 
the  objects  which  most  interest  the  stranger,  I hope,  in  the 
course  of  one  extended  walk,  to  bring  them  all  under  the 
reader’s  notice,  so  that  there  will  be  no  necessity  for  again 
taking  him  within  the  city  walls. 

Leaving  the  American  Consulate,  we  proceed  westward 
along  the  banks  of  a little  creek,  lined  with  willow  trees. 
Beyond  the  limits  of  the  settlement  we  come  upon  exten* 
sive  burying-grounds,  where  rank  grass  and  weeds  hide  the 
tombstones,  centuries  old.  These  places  are  sacred,  and 
though  the  dead  have  long  been  forgotten,  and  their  families 
become  extinct,  no  one  dares  to  interfere  with  the  soil  under 
which  they  rest.  In  the  midst  of  one  of  these  neglected  cem- 
eteries, stands  a horse,  of  the  natural  size,  sculptured  in  gray 
granite.  On  many  of  the  tombs  are  heaps  of  silvered  paper, 
made  into  the  form  of  ingots  of  sycee  silver,  which  are  car- 
ried there  and  burnt,  for  the  purpose  of  paying  the  expenses 
of  the  dead,  in  the  other  world.  The  usual  order  of  things  is 
reversed  in  this  case,  and  what  is  merely  the  shadow  here,  be- 
comes the  substantial  silver  there.  J udging  from  the  quanti- 
ties consumed,  the  dead  must  live  in  a most  extravagant  style. 
Between  the  graves  and  the  city  wall  stands  a lo'w  building,  in 
a clump  of  cedar  trees.  This  is  one  of  the  “ Baby  Towers,” 
of  which  there  are  several  near  the  city.  All  infants  who  die 
under  the  age  of  one  year  are  not  honored  with  burial,  but 
done  up  in  a package,  with  matting  and  cords,  and  thro'wn  into 


324 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


the  tower,  or  rather  well,  as  it  is  sunk  some  distance  below 
the  earth.  The  top,  which  rises  about  ten  feet  above  the 
ground,  is  roofed,  but  an  aperture  is  left  for  casting  in  the 
bodies.  Looking  into  it,  we  see  that  the  tower  is  filled  nearly 
to  the  roof  with  bundles  of  matting,  from  which  exhales  a 
pestilent  effluvium. 

Some  distance  further,  near  the  north-western  angle  of  the 
city  wall,  we  reach  the  “ Ningpo  House,”  as  it  is  called,  a 
beneficial  institution  of  an  interesting  character.  It  was  built 
and  is  supported  by  a club  of  Shanghai  merchants  and 
traders,  who  are  natives  of  Ningpo,  for  the  purpose  of  afford- 
ing relief  to  those  of  their  countrymen  who  may  become  des- 
titute,  and  taking  charge  of  the  bodies  of  those  who  die.  It 
is  a collection  of  low  buildings,  principally  of  stone,  and  se- 
parated by  paved  court-yards  into  the  different  departments 
which  it  embraces.  In  one  part  we  find  the  aged  and  infirm 
furnished  with  food  and  shelter,  both  of  the  plainest  kind; 
in  another  we  enter  what  appears  to  be  a great  coffin  ware- 
house, but  is  in  fact  a repository  of  dead  bodies.  The  ponderous 
coffins  of  poplar  or  sycamore  plank,  stained  of  a dark  red 
color,  and  covered  in  some  instances  with  gilded  hieroglyphics, 
are  ranged  in  compartments,  according  to  the  sex  and  time  of 
decease  of  the  occupant.  They  are  thus  kept  for  three  years, 
when,  if  not  reclaimed  by  their  relatives  at  Ningpo  and  trans- 
ported thither  for  burial,  they  are  deposited  in  a cemetery  ad- 
joining the  buildings.  The  bodies  are  firmly  packed  in  fine 
lime,  which  prevents  any  exhalations  from  the  coffins.  We 
should  not  suspect  that  in  the  warehouse  through  which  we 
pass  there  are  upwards  of  a hundred  corpses,  some  of  which 
have  been  there  nearly  the  whole  of  the  allotted  time  There 


CHINESE  GYPSIES. 


325 


are  several  other  beneficial  institutions  of  a similar  character  in 
Shanghai,  and  their  provisions  appear  to  be  carried  out  with 
fidelity  and  conscientiousness.  In  each  of  the  establishments 
there  is  a hall  hung  with  lanterns,  and  usually  containing  the 
idol  of  one  of  their  gods,  wherein  the  Directors  meet,  to  smoke, 
drink  tea,  and  discuss  their  affairs. 

Not  far  from  the  Ningpo  House,  there  is  a camp  of  Chinese 
Gypsies.  These  outcasts  have  little  in  common  with  the 
Gypsies  of  Europe  and  the  East.  They  are  of  pure  Mongolian 
blood,  and  only  resemble  the  former  in  their  wandering  habits, 
their  distinct  social  government,  and  their  mendicity,  which 
constitutes,  in  fact,  almost  their  only  means  of  support.  Their 
degradation  is  almost  without  parallel,  and  I doubt  if  there  be 
any  thing  in  human  nature  more  loathsome  than  their  appear- 
ance. Here  they  are,  on  this  bleak  hillock,  over  which  a few 
stunted  cedars  are  scattered.  Their  lairs — for  they  cannot  be 
called  tents— -of  filthy  matting  are  not  more  than  four  feet  high, 
and  barely  large  enough  to  contain  two  persons.  They  are 
built  upon  the  cold,  wet  earth,  with  perhaps  a little  straw  to 
protect  the  bodies  of  the  inmates.  Two  or  three  stones  and  a 
heap  of  ashes,  on  the  side  of  the  hill,  are  all  their  domestic  ap- 
pliances. As  we  approach,  a wild  head,  with  long,  tangled 
hair,  and  deep-set,  glaring  black* eyes,  is  thrust  out  from  each  of 
the  lairs.  Some  lie  still,  merely  following  us  with  their  gaze, 
like  a beast  surprised  in  his  den ; others  crawl  out,  displaying 
garments  that  are  dropping  to  pieces  from  sheer  rottenness,  and 
figures  so  frightfully  repulsive  and  disgusting,  that  we  move  away 
repenting  that  we  have  disturbed  this  nest  of  human  vermin 

We  now  enter  an  outer  street,  leading  to  the  northern  gate 
of  the  city.  It  is  narrow,  paved  with  rough  stones,  and  carpeted 


326 


INDIA.  CHINA^  AND  JAPAN. 


with  a deposit  of  soft  mud.  The  houses  on  either  hand  are  of 
wood,  two  stories  high,  and  have  a dark,  decaying  air.  The 
lower  stories  are  shops,  open  to  the  street,  within  which  the 
pig-tailed  merchants  sit  behind  their  counters,  and  look  at  us 
out  of  the  corners  of  their  crooked  eyes,  as  we  go  by.  The 
streets  are  filled  with  a crowd  of  porters,  water-carriers,  and 
other  classes  of  the  laboring  population,  and  also,  during  the 
past  week  or  two,  with  the  families  and  property  of  thousands 
of  the  inhabitants,  who  are  flying  into  the  country,  in  anticipa- 
tion of  war.  At  the  corners  of  the  streets  are  stands  for  the  sale 
of  fruit  and  vegetables,  the  cheaper  varieties  of  which  can  he 
had  in  portions  valued  at  a single  cash — the  fifteenth  part  of  a 
cent.  A bridge  of  granite  slabs  crosses  the  little  stream  of 
which  I have  already  spoken,  and  after  one  or  two  turnings  we 
find  ourselves  at  the  city  gate.  It  is  simply  a low  stone  arch, 
through  a wall  ten  feet  thick,  leading  into  a sort  of  bastion 
for  defence,  with  an  inner  gate.  "Within  the  space  is  a guard- 
house, where  we  see  some  antiquated  instruments,  resembling 
pikes  and  halberds,  leaning  against  the  wall,  but  no  soldiers. 
A manifesto  issued  by  the  Taou-tai — ^probably  some  lying  re- 
port of  a victory  over  the  rebels — is  pasted  against  the  inner 
gate,  and  there  is  a crowd  before  it,  spelling  out  its  black  and 
vermilion  hieroglyphics. 

Turning  to  the  left,  we  advance  for  a short  distance  along 
the  inside  of  the  wall,  which  is  of  brick,  about  twenty  feet 
thick,  with  a notched  parapet.  Carefully  avoiding  the  heaps 
of  filth  and  the  still  more  repulsive  beggars  that  line  the  path, 
we  reach  a large,  blank  building,  about  two  hundred  feet 
square.  This  is  a pawnbroker’s  shop — for  the  Chinese  are  civ- 
ilized enough  for  that-  -and  well  worth  a visit.  The  front  en- 


A pawnbroker’s  shop. 


327 


trance  admits  us  into  tlie  office,  where  the  manager  and  his  at- 
tendants are  busily  employed  behind  a high  counter,  and  a 
crowd  of  applicants  fills  the  space  in  front.  We  apply  for 
permission  to  inspect  the  establishment,  which  is  cheerfully 
granted ; a side-door  is  opened,  and  we  enter  a long  range  of 
store-houses,  filled  to  the  ceiling  with  every  article  of  a 
Chinese  household  or  costume,  each  piece  being  folded  up  se- 
parately, numbered  and  labelled.  One  room  is  appropriated 
wholly  to  the  records,  or  books  registering  the  articles  deposited. 
There  are  chambers  containing  thousands  of  pewter  candle- 
sticks ; court-yards  piled  with  braziers ; spacious  lofts,  stuffed  to 
the  ceiling  with  the  cotton  gowns  and  petticoat-pantaloons  of 
the  poorer  classes,  and  chests,  trunks,  boxes  and  other  cabinet- 
ware  in  bewildering  quantities.  At  a rough  estimate,  I should 
say  that  tnere  are  at  least  80,000  costumes ; when  we  asked  the 
attendant  the  number,  he  shrugged  his  shoulders  and  said : 
Who  could  count  them  ? ” There  are  three  or  four  other 
establishments,  of  nearly  similar  magnitude,  in  the  city. 
They  are  regulated  by  the  Government,  and  are  said  to  be  con- 
ducted in  a fair  and  liberal  spirit. 

At  the  next  angle  of  the  wall  stands  an  old  Boodhist 
temple,  before  the  door  of  which  lie  two  granite  lions,  broken 
and  overthrown.  Squatted  on  a pedestal  within  is  a gilded 
idol,  about  five  feet  high,  while  in  recesses  on  either  hand  are 
the  guardians  or  watchers  of  the  temple — ^gigantic  figures,  armed 
with  swords,  and  glittering  with  the  gaudiest  colors  of  the 
Chinese  pallet.  We  pass  through  this  vestibule  and  ascend  a 
flight  of  steps  to  an  inner  temple,  where  the  god  appears  in 
colossal  form,  and  in  spite  of  his  slack  hands  fallen  on  his 
knees,  his  heavy,  hanging  abdomen,  his  bloated  cheeks,  and  the 


328 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


good-humored  silliness  of  his  face,  his  appearance  is  at  least 
respectable.  Any  colossal  representation  of  the  human  body, 
if  not  an  intentional  caricature,  is  to  a certain  degree  majestic 
and  impressive;  and  though  the  Chinese  Boodh  stands,  in 
rank  of  idolship,  far  below  the  Indian  Brahma  and  the  grand 
Egyptian  Amun-Re,  one  cannot  flout  him  to  his  face.  In  a 
chamber  adjoining  this  we  And  a female  divinity — the  Queen 
of  Mercy — whose  Chinese  title  I forget.  Hearing  a continual 
thumping  noise  in  the  room  beyond,  we  push  open  the  door  and 
surprise  a Boodhist  priest  at  his  devotions.  He  is  seated  at 
a table  with  a book  open  before  him,  from  which  he  is  chanting 
prayers  with  a monotonous,  drawling  tone,  while  with  one  hand 
h^  thumps  incessantly  with  a small  wooden  hammer  upon  a 
hollow  drum  of  the  same  material.  This  drum  is  called  by 
the  same  name  as  the  great  fish  upon  which  the  earth  rests,  and 
which  its  sound  soothes  into  quiet.  When,  at  any  time,  even 
for  a minute,  there  is  no  drum  beaten  throughout  the  whole 
world,  the  fish  at  once  becomes  uneasy,  and  his  contortions 
occasion  earthquakes.  The  priest  wears  a yellow  robe,  his  skin 
is  yellow,  his  head  is  shaven  bald,  his  face  is  puckered  with 
wrinkles,  and  altogether  he  is  one  of  the  oddest  and  funniest 
old  men  that  ever  was  seen.  He  looks  up,  nods,  with  a queer 
twinkle  in  his  eyes,  looks  down  again,  and  up  again,  but  never 
once  pauses  in  his  chanting  or  his  thumping. 

We  now  take  a street  which  strikes  into  the  heart  of  the 
city,  and  set  out  for  the  famous  “ Tea  Gardens.”  The  pavement 
is  of  rough  stones,  slippery  with  mud,  and  on  one  side  of  the 
street  is  a ditch  filled  with  black,  stagnant  slime,  from  which 
arises  the  fouiest  smell.  Porters,  carrying  buckets  of  ofial, 
brush  past  us;  public  cloacce  stand  open  at  the  corners,  and 


STENCHES  OF  THE  STREETS BEaOASS. 


329 


the  clothes  and  persons  of  the  unwashed  laborers  and  beggars 
distil  a reeking  compound  of  still  more  disagreeable  exhala- 
tions. Coleridge  says  of  Cologne : 

“ 1 counted  two  and  seventy  stenches, 

All  well  defined — and  several  stinks ; ” 

but  Shanghai,  in  its  horrid  foulness,  would  be  flattered  by  such 
a description.  I never  go  within  its  walls  but  with  a shudder, 
and  the  taint  of  its  contaminating  atmosphere  seems  to  hang 
about  me  like  a garment  long  after  I have  left  them.  Even  in 
the  country,  which  now  rejoices  in  the  opening  spring,  all  the 
freshness  of  the  season  is  destroyed  by  the  rank  ammoniated 
odors  arising  from  pits  of  noisome  manure,  sunk  in  the  fields. 
Having  mentioned  these  things,  I shall  not  refer  to  them 
again ; but  if  the  reader  would  have  a correct  description  of 
Shanghai,  they  cannot  be  wholly  ignored. 

It  requires  some  care  to  avoid  contact  with  the  beggars  who 
throng  the  streets,  and  we  would  almost  as  willingly  touch  a 
man  smitten  with  leprosy,  or  one  dying  of  the  plague.  They 
take  their  stations  in  front  of  the  shops,  and  supplicate  with 
a loud,  whining  voice,  until  the  occupant  purchases  their  de- 
parture by  some  trifling  alms ; for  they  are  protected  by  the 
law  in  their  avocation,  and  no  man  dare  drive  them  forcibly 
from  his  door.  As  we  approach  the  central  part  of  the  city, 
the  streets  become  more  showy  and  a trifle  cleaner.  The  shops 
are  large  and  well  arranged,  and  bright  red  signs,  covered  with 
golden  inscriptions,  swing  vertically  from  the  eaves.  All  the 
richest  shops,  however,  are  closed  at  present,  and  not  a piece  of 
the  celebrated  silks  of  Soo-Ohow,  the  richest  in  China,  is  to 
be  rouirl  in  the  city.  The  manufactures  m jade-stone,  carved 


330 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


bamboo,  and  the  furniture  of  Ningpo,  inlaid  with  ivory  and 
boxwood,  are  still  to  be  had  in  profusion,  but  they  are  more 
curious  than  elegant.  Indeed,  I have  seen  no  article  of  Chinese 
workmanship  which  could  positively  be  called  beautiful,  unless 
it  was  fashioned  after  a European  model.  Industry,  perse- 
verance, and  a wonderful  faculty  of  imitation  belong  to  these 
people  ; but  they  are  utterly  destitute  of  original  taste. 

The  “ Tea  Garden”  is  an  open  space  near  the  centre  of  the 
city,  devoted  to  the  recreation  of  the  populace.  In  the  midst 
of  a paven  square  is  a pool  of  greenish,  stagnant  water,  in 
which  stands  a building  of  two  stories,  with  the  peaked,  curved, 
overhanging  roofs,  which  we  always  associate  with  Chinese  ar- 
chitecture. It  is  reached  by  bridges  which  cross  the  water  in 
curious  zigzag  lines,  so  that  you  walk  more  than  double  the 
actual  distance.  On  the  opposite  side  are  several  similar  build- 
ings, surrounded  by  masses  of  artificial  rock-work,  but  the  only 
token  of  a garden  is  a pair  of  magnolia  trees,  clothed  in  the 
glory  of  their  fragrant,  snowy  blossoms.  Every  body  remem- 
bers the  old-fashioned  plates  of  blue  Liverpool  ware,  with  a 
representation  of  two  Chinese  houses,  a willow  tree,  a bridge 
with  three  Chinamen  walking  over  it,  and  two  crows  in  the 
air.  These  plates  give  a very  good  representation  of  the 
Tea  Garden,  which  is  a fair  sample  of  what  is  most  picturesque 
in  Chinese  life.  The  buildings  are  tea-houses,  and  on  entering 
we  find  them  filled  with  natives  of  all  classes,  drinking  strong 
decoctions  of  the  herb,  and  smoking  their  slender  pipes  of 
bamboo,  with  bowls  about  the  size  of  a lady’s  thimble.  The  tea 
is  prepared  in  enormous  pots  suspended  over  furnaces  of  clay. 
The  master  of  the  house  shows  us  a vacant  table,  but  we  de- 
cline his  hint,  and  pass  out  to  view  the  crowds  in  the  square. 


CHINESE  MOUNTEBANKS. 


3?1 


Here  is  a man  leading  a white  goat  with  only  three  legs, 
which  he  wishes  to  sell,  hut  on  a careful  examination  we  per- 
ceive that  one  of  the  fore  legs  has  been  neatly  amputated  while 
the  animal  was  young.  There  are  half  a dozen  gaming  tables, 
each  surrounded  by  its  crowd  of  players  and  spectators. 
The  Chinese  are  inveterate  gamblers,  and  as  the  stakes  at 
many  of  these  tables  are  as  low  as  a single  cash,  few  are  so 
poor  that  they  cannot  make  a venture.  One  of  the  methods 
has  some  resemblance  to  the  “little  jokers,”  so  well  known  at 
our  race  courses.  The  player  has  three  sticks,  the  ends  of 
which  are  thrust  through  his  fingers.  There  is  a hole  through 
each  of  the  other  ends,  which  are  held  in  his  hand;  a cord  is 
passed  through  one  of  them,  and  the  play  consists  in  guessing 
which  one,  as  the  cord  may  be  transferred  from  one  to  the 
other  by  a quick  movement  of  the  fingers.  I put  a “ cash” 
on  the  board,  make  a guess,  and  win  a cake  of  suspicious-look- 
ing candy,  which  I give  to  the  nearest  boy,  to  the  great  merri- 
ment of  the  bystanders.  There  are  also  stands  for  the  sale  of 
pea-nuts,  reminding  us  of  the  classic  side-walks  of  Chatham 
street,  and  for  the  sake  of  Young  America,  we  must  invest  a 
few  cash  in  his  favorite  fruit.  But  here  is  an  entertainment  of 
an  entirely  novel  character.  A man  seated  on  the  pavement, 
holds  in  his  hand  a white  porcelain  tile,  about  a foot  square. 
This  he  overspreads  with  a deep-blue  color,  from  a spongo 
dipped  in  a thin  paste  of  indigo,  and  asks  us  to  name  a fiower. 
I suggest  the  lotus.  He  extends  his  fore-finger — a most  re- 
markable fore-finger,  crooked,  flexible  as  an  elephant’s  trunk, 
and  as  sharp  as  if  the  end  had  been  whittled  off — gives  three  or 
four  quick  dashes  across  the  tile,  and  in  ten  seconds  or  less, 
lo!  there  ia  the  flowei;  exquisitely  drawn  and  shaded,  its  snowy 


332 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


cup  hanging  in  the  midst  of  its  long  swaying  leaves.  Three 
more  strokes,  and  a white  bird  with  spread  wings,  hovers  over 
it;  two  more,  and  a dog  stands  beside  it.  The  rapidity  and 
precision  of  that  fore-finger  seem  almost  miraculous.  He 
covers  the  tile  with  new  layers  of  color,  and  flower  after  flower 
is  dashed  out  of  the  blue  ground. 

The  Chapel  of  the  Baptist  Mission  is  in  a street  near  the 
Tea  Garden,  and  its  tower,  about  seventy  feet  high,  affords  an 
excellent  panoramic  view  of  the  city  and  surrounding  country. 
Looking  down  upon  the  city,  we  see  nothing  but  a mass  of 
peaked  roofs,  covered  with  tiles  which  are  blackened  by  age, 
and  here  and  there  the  open  courts  and  heavier  architecture 
of  temples.  The  serrated  line  of  the  wall  surrounds  it,  and 
the  rich  alluvial  land  extends  wide  beyond,  dotted  with  vil- 
lages, clumps  of  cedar,  groves  of  fruit-trees,  or  the  mounds  of 
ancient  cemeteries.  The  broad  river  winds  through  the  cen 
tre  of  the  landscape,  and  the  number  of  junks  gliding  over  its 
surface  with  their  square  sails  spread  to  the  east  wind,  give 
animation  to  the  scene.  In  front  of  the  city  they  are  an- 
chored in  a dense  mass  a mile  in  length,  and  numbering  not 
less  than  two  thousand.  Tlie  din  of  gongs  and  drums  and  the 
sputtering  of  fire-crackers,  burnt  to  secure  the  aid  of  the  wa- 
ter-gods, reaches  us  at  this  distance.  Eight  or  nine  miles  up 
the  river  stands  a tall  pagoda,  and  as  the  air  is  clear  to-day 
the  summits  of  “ The  Hills,”  as  they  are  called  by  the  foreign 
residents,  are  faintly  visible  in  the  west.  These  hills,  which 
are  a favorite  resort  of  foreigners  during  the  hot  season,  are 
twenty-five  miles  distant.  They  are  the  first  range  which  breaks 
the  vast  level  of  the  plains,  and  command  a \dew  of  the  large 


FANCIFUL  SIGNS. 


333 


town  of  Soong-Keang  in  the  interior,  and  the  country  stretch- 
ing toward  Soo-Chow. 

Looking  to  the  river,  our  eyes  are  attracted  by  a large  tea* 
warehouse,  on  the  wall  of  which  are  painted  four  enormous 
characters.  Our  missionary  friend  interprets  them  as  signify- 
ing “ The  Place  of  Heavenly  prepared  Leaves.”  In  the  fanci- 
ful and  figurative  character  of  their  signs,  the  Chinese  remind 
us  of  the  Arabic  races.  There  is  a shop  for  the  sale  of  sam- 
shooj  or  rice-whiskey,  in  Hong-Koug,  which  bears  over  its  door 
the  following  inscription : “ The  joys  of  Paradise  are  nothing 
but  a state  of  perpetual  intoxication ! ” The  announcements 
of  vessels  up  for  California  are  headed  with  the  enticing  call : 
“ To  the  Golden  Mountains ! ” 

Notwithstanding  the  efforts  of  many  zealous  and  devoted 
missionaries  who  have  been  sent  to  China,  the  number  of  genu- 
ine converts  is  very  limited.  The  Chinese  nature  appears  to  ho 
so  thoroughly  passive,  that  it  is  not  even  receptive.  A sort 
of  listless  curiosity  leads  them  to  fill  the  chapels  of  the  mis- 
sionaries, and  to  gather  in  crowds  around  those  who  preach  in 
the  public  places,  hut  when  the  exhortation  is  finished,  away 
they  go,  without  the  least  ripple  of  new  thought  in  the  stag- 
nant waters  of  their  minds.  The  mental  inertia  of  these  people 
seems  to  he  almost  hopeless  of  improvement.  Even  while  the 
present  rebellion  is  going  on — a struggle  which,  one  would  sup- 
pose, would  enlist  their  sympathies,  if  a single  spark  of  patriot- 
ism or  ambition  remained — the  great  mass  of  the  people  main- 
tain the  most  profound  apathy.  Some  advocate  of  universal 
peace  has  cited  China  as  the  example  of  a nation  which  has 
successfully  pursued  a pacific  policy ; but  I say,  welcome  be 
the  thunder-storm  which  shall  scatter  and  break  up,  though  by 


334 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


the  means  of  fire  and  blood,  this  terrible  stagnation ! Whc 
would  not  exclaim  with  Tennyson: 

“ Better  fifty  years  of  Europe  than  a cycle  of  Cathay.’’ 

But  we  are  curious  to  inspect  the  dwelling  of  a Chinaman 
of  the  better  class,  and  our  friend,  who  is  fortunately  able  to 
assist  us,  conducts  us  to  the  house  of  a wealthy  old  merchant. 
It  is  a stone  building,  recently  erected,  and  every  thing  about 
it  indicates  great  neatness,  and  an  approach  to  taste  in  the 
owner.  In  the  open  verandahs  are  boxes  of  the  mau-tan^  or 
rose-scented  peony,  with  gorgeous  white  and  crimson  blossoms, 
and  the  lan-whei^  a water-plant  of  an  orchideous  nature,  with 
a long  spike  of  yellowish-green  flowers.  The  mau-ian  also 
decorates  the  rooms,  which  are  hung  with  lanterns  of  stained 
glass.  The  furniture  is  of  wood,  of  a stiff,  uncomfortable  pat- 
tern, but  elaborately  carved.  The  owner,  an  urbane,  polito  old 
gentleman,  regales  us  with  cups  of  stewed  tea,  whose  delicate 
aroma  compensates  for  the  absence  of  milk  and.  sugar,  and  asks 
us  up  stairs  into  his  library.  The  shelves  are  covered  with 
Chinese  works,  bound  in  their  wooden  covers,  and  in  the  centre 
of  the  room  stands  a bronze  frame,  with  three  apertures  at  the 
top,  and  a bundle  of  arrows.  The  latter  are  the  implements 
of  a game  which  the  host  explains  to  us,  by  taking  the  arrows 
to  the  further  end  of  the  room,  seizing  one  by  the  tip  of  the 
shaft  with  his  thumb  and  fore-finger,  and  throwing  it  so  as  to 
fall  into  one  of  the  small  circular  openings  of  the  frame.  We 
try  a game,  whereof  the  victory,  owing  to  his  more  extensive 
practice,  remains  with  him. 

Toward  the  northern  side  of  the  city  is  the  prison.  On 
each  side  of  the  outer  gate  is  painted  the  figure  of  an  avenging 


A CHIINESE  PRISOJN. 


335 


divinity,  whose  black  face  and  glaring  eyeballs  strike  terror 
into  the  minds  of  the  natives.  This  gate  gives  admittance  to 
a quadrangular  court,  surrounded  by  ranges  of  cages  or  cells, 
wherein  the  prisoners  are  subjected  to  different  degrees  of 
punishment,  according  to  their  crimes.  Some  are  in  chambers 
divided  by  strong  bamboo  gratings ; others  at  large,  with  heavy 
shackles  fastened  to  their  legs ; and  the  more  criminal  cases 
are  confined  separately  in  narrow  cages,  which  bind  them  in  the 
smallest  and  most  cramped  space,  with  their  knees  drawn  up 
to  their  chins.  Their  heads  project  through  holes  in  the  top, 
and  as  we  pass,  their  faces  are  turned  to  us  with  a wild,  haggard 
look  of  suffering.  Some  of  them  have  been  kept  for  weeks, 
immovable  in  those  frames  of  torture,  and  their  condition  is  too 
horrible  for  description.  The  cell  adjoining  that  in  which  they 
lie,  and  divided  from  it  only  by  some  bamboo  stakes,  is  the 
one  appropriated  by  the  Chinese  authorities  for  foreign  pris- 
oners. On  the  beams  are  carved  a number  of  names,  princi- 
pally German,  and  probably  those  of  refractory  sailors.  The 
^Inglish  Government,  in  those  ports  where  the  Consul  possesses 
judicial  authority — ^as  in  China,  Turkey,  and  the  Barbary 
States — always  erects  a separate  prison  for  the  confinement  of 
English  subjects.  Our  Government,  however,  from  an  admira- 
ble economy,  prefers  thrusting  its  citizens  into  these  loathsome 
dens,  the  condition  and  associations  of  which  increase  tenfold 
the  horrors  of  imprisonment.  A few  days  ago  the  entire  crew 
of  an  Amerian  vessel  in  port  passed  a night  in  the  very  cell 
before  us. ' 

On  our  way  to  the  city  wall  we  pass  one  of  the  public 
baths,  and  curiosity  induces  us  to  step  in.  The  building  is 
low,  damp  and  dirty,  and  filled  with  a rank,  steamy,  unclean 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


.336 


atmosphere.  It  consists  of  three  apartments,  in  one  of  which 
the  bathers  undress,  bathe  in  the  next,  and  lounge  smoking  on 
the  benches,  in  an  unembarrassed  state  of  nudity,  in  the  third. 
As  it  is  towards  evening,  they  belong  mostly  to  the  lower 
classes,  and  look  quite  as  filthy  after  the  bath  as  before.  The 
water  is  not  changed  throughout  the  day,  and  its  appearance 
and  condition  may  perhaps  be  imagined.  The  small  tank  is 
filled  in  the  morning,  and  kept  heated  by  a furnace  under  it. 
The  price  of  a bath  diminishes  in  proportion  as  the  water  gets 
dirty,  until,  in  the  evening,  it  falls  to  a single  cash  (the  fifteenth 
part  of  a cent).  By  holding  my  breath,  I remain  in  the  dark, 
reeking  den,  long  enough  to  see  two  yellow  forms  immersed  in 
the  turbid  pool,  and  then  rush  out  stifled  and  nauseated. 
Among  the  bathers  in  the  outer  room  there  are  several  strong, 
muscular  figures,  but  a total  want  of  that  elegant  symmetry 
which  distinguishes  the  Caucasian  and  Shemitic  races.  They 
are  broad-shouldered  and  deep-chested,  but  the  hips  and  loins 
are  clumsily  moulded,  and  the  legs  have  a coarse,  clubby 
character.  We  should  never  expect  to  see  such  figures  assume 
the  fine,  free  attitudes  of  ancient  sculpture.  But  here,  as  every 
where,  the  body  is  the  expression  of  the  spiritual  nature. 
There  is  no  sense  of  what  we  understand  by  Art — Grace,  Har- 
mony, Proportion — in  the  Chinese  nature,  and  therefore  we 
look  in  vain  for  any  physical  expression  of  it.  Be  Quincey, 
who  probably  never  saw  a Chinaman,  saw  this  fact  with  the 
clairvoyant  eye  of  genius,  when  he  said : “If  I were  con- 
demned to  live  among  the  Chinese,  I should  go  mad.”  This 
is  a strong  expression,  but  I do  not  hesitate  to  adopt  it. 

Before  terminating  this  long  and,  perhaps,  wearisome  ram- 
bh",  let  us  enter  the  great  temple  of  the  tutelar  divinity  of 


BOODH  AT  SUNSET. 


337 


Shanghai.  The  obese  idol,  cross-legged,  and  with  his  hands 
upon  his  knees,  is  fifteen  feet  high,  and  seated  upon  a pedestal 
of  about  twelve  feet.  He  is  gilded  from  head  to  foot,  and 
looms  grandly  through  the  dusk  of  the  lofty  hall.  On  each 
side  are  the  gilded  statues  of  nine  renowned  Chinese  saints 
and  sages — eighteen  in  all — of  the  size  of  life.  The  sacred 
drum,  four  or  five  feet  in  diameter,  and  raised  on  a prop  of 
heavy  timbers,  stands  on  one  side  of  the  entrance,  and  the  great 
bell — <£L  universal  feature  of  Boodhist  temples — on  the  other. 
We  beat  the  drum  and  strike  the  bell  with  a mallet,  until 
the  temple  rings  with  a peal  of  barbaric  sound.  The  priests 
look  on,  smiling,  for  the  act  is  not  one  of  irreverence,  but  of 
devotion,  in  their  eyes,  and  while  we  are  amusing  ourselves,  we 
do  homage  to  the  great  Boodh.  The  broad  interior  of  the 
temple  is  dusky  with  the  evening  shadows,  when  the  last  red 
beam  of  sunset,  falling  through  an  upper  window,  strikes  full 
upon  the  golden  face  of  the  god,  lighting  that  only,  so  that  the 
large  features  blaze  upon  us  out  of  the  gloom,  as  if  moulded  in 
living  fire.  It  is  as  if  Boodh  had  asserted  his  insulted  majesty, 
and  while  he  is  thus  transfigured  we  own  that  he  is  sublime. 

On  our  return  to  the  foreign  settlement,  we  hear  loud, 
humming  noises  in  the  air,  and  looking  up,  see  a strange  collec- 
tion of  monsters  hovering  in  thfe  sky.  An  enormous  bird,  with 
outspread  wings  of  red  and  gold,  is  soaring  directly  over  our 
heads ; a centipede,  twenty  feet  long,  is  wriggling  yonder ; a 
fanciful  dragon  shoots  hither  and  thither ; and  a mandarin,  in 
his  robes  of  state,  makes  his  airy  ko-iows,  or  salutations,  to  tho 
gazers  below.  The  natives  are  indulging  in  their  national 
amusement  of  kite-flying,  and  as  long  as  there  is  light  enough 
left  they  will  continue,  with  the  eagerness  of  children,  to  ma* 
15 


338 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


noDuvre  their  painted  toys.  We  draw  a long  breath  of  relief 
when  we  have  passed  the  wall  and  the  muddy  creek,  and  as  we 
walk  homeward,  mentally  revolve  the  question,  whether  it  is 
worth  satisfying  one’s  curiosity  at  the  expense  of  so  much  an- 
noyance and  disgust. 


CHAPTEK  XXVII. 


EARTHQUAKES  AND  OFFICIAL  VISITS. 

Au  Earthquake — Sensations  it  Produced— Its  EfiFects— Additional  Shocks— The  Bowl- 
ing Alley— Hairs  in  the  Soil— A Shower  of  Sand— Visit  of  the  Taou-tai  to  Ool. 
Marshall— Chinese  Visiting  Cards — The  Taou-tai’s  Appearance — Reception  of  the 
Dignitaries— A Chinese  Military  Review — The  Soldiers  and  their  Equipments — 
Their  Disciplir>e— Uncouth  Weapons — Absurdity  of  the  Parade — The  Commissioner 
visits  the  Taou-tai — Reception — The  Taou-tal’s  Residence — Chinese  Refreshments — 
Departure. 

Our  attention  was  for  a time  diverted  from  the  alarm  and  ex- 
citement occasioned  bj  rumors  of  the  approach  of  the  rebels, 
through  the  unexpected  visitation  of  an  earthquake,  which 
occurred  on  Thursday  night,  the  14th  of  April.  On  that 
evening,  M.  de  Montigny,  the  French  Consul,  entertained  CoL 
Marshall  at  dinner.  Capt.  Buchanan  and  Purser  Barry,  of 
the  Susquehanna,  Mr.  Cunningham,  Capt.  de  Plas,  of  the 
French  steamer  Cassini,  and  several  other  gentlemen  were 
present.  About  a quarter  past  11  o’clock,  as  the  guests  were 
taking  leave,  some  of  them  being  still  in  the  passage,  putting 
on  their  overcoats,  for  it  was  a dark,  drizzling  night,  there  was 
a sudden,  violent  noise,  the  timbers  of  the  house  cracking  and 
the  walls  swaying  to  and  fro.  I was  standing  just  under  the 
eaves  at  the  time,  and  my  first  impression  was  that  the  building 
was  tumbling  down  upon  me.  I made  a spring  into  the  court. 


340 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


with  a strange  feeling  of  bewilderment,  for  every  thing  was 
reeling  and  unsteady.  All  this  was  the  work  of  an  instant. 
There  was  a cry  from  the  ladies  within,  and  they  came  rushing 
out  in  great  terror,  exclaiming : “ an  earthquake ! an  earth- 
quake ! ” We  stood  in  the  open  court-yard,  awaiting  a second 
shock.  The  earth  continued  to  heave  with  a slow,  regular 
motion,  gradually  diminishing,  until  the  throbs  ceased.  It 
produced  a slight  giddiness  and  nausea  in  some  of  us.  Im- 
mediately after  the  shock  passed  away,  a wild  outcry  arose 
from  the  Chinese  city,  and  the  large  wooden  drums  in  the  tem- 
ples were  heard  sounding  far  and  near.  The  object  of  this 
was  to  soothe  the  great  fish  upon  which  the  earth  rests,  and  by 
whose  uneasiness  the  earthquake  was  caused. 

On  reaching  the  Consulate,  we  found  that  everybody  in  the 
house  had  felt  the  shock,  and  the  chandeliers  in  the  drawing- 
room were  still  vibrating  from  it.  Mr.  L.,  one  of  the  clerks, 
stated  that  his  attention  was  first  called  to  it  by  seeing  several 
doors  which  had  been  locked,  fly  open  without  any  apparent 
agency.  In  the  other  house  belonging  to  Russell  & Co.,  a 
chimney  was  thrown  down,  and  one  of  the  joists  drawn  from 
its  socket  and  forced  through  the  ceiling.  About  fifteen  yards 
of  a high  brick  wall  around  Mr.  Nye’s  house  was  overthrown, 
and  a large  Chinese  warehouse  in  the  city  almost  entirely  de- 
stroyed. The  dogs  (of  which  there  is  no  scarcity  in  Shanghai) 
howled  dismally  while  the  motion  lasted.  The  direction  of 
the  wave  was  from  north  east  to  south-west,  and  the  extent  of 
its  motion  was,  I should  judge,' about  two  feet.  Shanghai  is 
subject  to  slight  shocks,  but  this  was  the  most  severe  which 
had  been  felt  for  several  years.  The  nearest  volcanoes  are  in 


EFFECTS  OP  THE  EARTHQUAKE. 


341 


the  Japanese  island  of  Kiusiu,  about  six  hundred  miles  dis- 
tant. 

About  midnight  two  additional  shocks  were  felt,  but  they 
were  much  lighter  than  the  first.  On  retiring  to  rest,  we 
found  that  a number  of  articles  in  the  rooms  had  been  thrown 
upon  the  floor.  In  the  morning  I walked  up  to  the  northern 
part  of  the  settlement,  where  the  shock  appeared  to  have  been 
much  more  violent  than  at  the  southern  end.  In  Mr.  Nye’a 
godown  (warehouse)  the  heavy  bales  of  goods  were  hurled  from 
their  places.  Several  chimneys  were  sprung  and  walls  cracked, 
but  the  nature  of  the  soil  on  which  Shanghai  stands — an 
elastic,  clayey  loam,  two  hundred  feet  in  depth — saved  the 
place  from  greater  injury.  In  company  with  some  friends  I 
went  to  the  bowling-alley,  the  walls  of  which  had  previously 
showed  a disposition  to  give  way,  and  were  supported  on  one 
side  by  props.  After  playing  an  hour  or  two,  we  noticed  that 
the  southern  wall  had  suddenly  sunk  outwards  more  than  six 
inches,  and  was  cracked  from  top  to  bottom.  There  had  been, 
in  fact,  another  smart  shock  at  that  very  time,  and  we  had  not 
perceived  it.  The  props  alone  prevented  the  whole  building 
from  coming  down  upon  our  heads. 

The  Chinese  servants  stated  in  the  morning  that  hairs  were 
always  found  in  the  earth  after  an  earthquake,  and  brought  up 
two  or  three  gray  horse-hairs — or  what  appeared  to  be  such — 
which  they  professed  to  have  found  in  the  yard.  Several  of  the 
gentlemen  immediately  went  down  and  commenced  searching, 
and  to  their  astonishment  found  numbers  of  gray  filaments  from 
four  to  ten  inches  long.  They  projected  two  or  three  inches 
from  the  soil,  and  were  most  abundant  among  the  grass.  They 
were  strong,  like  a coarse  hempen  fibre,  and  were  readily  drawn 


342 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


out  without  breaking.  After  a careful  examination  with  a 
powerful  magnifying  glass,  it  was  found  that  they  had  not  the 
tubular  structure  of  hair,  but  what  they  were  and  whence  they 
came,  was  a mystery.  Some  of  the  profane  summarily  ac- 
counted for  them  by  declaring  that  the  shock  of  the  earthquake 
caused  the  earth’s  hair  to  stand  on  end,  from  fright.  They 
were  picked  up  in  nearly  all  the  gardens  in  town.  The  Chinese 
say  they  are  only  found  for  three  days  after  a shock,  which,  so 
far  as  I could  learn,  also  proved  correct. 

Another  circumstance  attending  the  earthquake,  was  the 
shower  of  fine  dust,  which  fell  for  two  or  three  days  afterwards. 
The  same  thing  was  noticed  after  the  earthquake  of  1846, 
which  was  less  violent.  The  wind  was  from  the  north-west, 
and  the  sand,  which  some  suppose  to  come  from  the  great 
Desert  of  Kobi,  in  the  interior  of  China,  was  so  fine  as  to  be 
impalpable,  yet  filled  the  air  to  such  an  extent  that  the  sun 
was  covered  with  a yellow  film,  and  the  view  obscured  as  by  a 
thick  haze.  The  Chinese  reported  that  a town  about  thirty 
miles  distant  had  been  entirely  swallowed  up,  and  that  a tract 
of  land  a mile  square  had  sunk,  and  had  been  replaced  by  a 
deep  lake.  We  decided  at  once  to  pay  a visit  to  the  spot,  but 
on  inquiry  found  so  many  contradictory  stories  regarding  it, 
that  it  was  quite  impossible  to  discover  where  the  town  was. 
There  were  three  or  four  slight  shocks  afterwards  at  intervals 
of  two  or  three  days. 

On  the  9th  of  April,  the  Taou-tai  of  Shanghai  paid  an 
official  visit  to  Col.  Marshall,  and  to  the  frigate  Susquehanna. 
He  had  given  notice  of  his  intention  two  days  before,  and 
came  in  state,  attended  by  four  mandarins,  and  with  a long 
retinue  of  scarecrow  followers.  A little  in  advance  of  their 


CHINESE  VISITING  CARDS. 


343 


arrival,  the  cards  of  the  dignitaries  were  sent  to  the  Cornmis 
sioner.  They  were  long  slips  of  crimson  paper,  inscribed  with 
rows  of  glaring  hieroglyphics,  and  enclosed  in  crimson  envelopes, 
The  Taou-tai’s  ran  thus:  “ Woo-keen-chang,  of  the  Ta-Tsing 

Empire,  by  Imperial  appointment  Salt  Commissioner,  Inten- 
dant  of  the  Circuit  of  the  Prefectures  of  Soo-Chow,  Soong- 
Keang  and  Tae-Tsung,  in  the  province  of  Keang-nan,  holding 
the  rank  of  Judge,  promoted  five  degrees,  &c.,  presents  his 
compliments.”  One  of  the  others  was  still  more  remarkable  : 
“ Lan-wei-wan,  of  the  Ta-Tsing  Empire,  Haefung  of  the  Pre- 
fecture of  Shanghai,  in  the  province  of  Keang-soo,  and  expec- 
tant of  the  office  of  Prefect,  knocks  his  head  and  presents 
compliments.”  How  titles  would  multiply  in  America,  if  all 
the  “expectants”  of  office  adopted  this  plan!  We  should  be 
overrun  with  such  characters  as — Hon.  Elijah  Pogram,  Ex- 
pectant Minister  to  Russia;  Jedediah  Peabody,  Expectant 
Collector  of  Sag-Harbor — and  so  to  the  end  of  the  chapter. 

The  Taou-tai  was  received  with  all  due  distinction,  and  his 
interview  with  the  Commissioner  lasted  about  an  hour.  He 
was  a small  man,  near  fifty  years  of  age  (his  mustache  denot- 
ing a grandfather) ; his  complexion  was  a pale,  bloodless  yellow, 
his  eyes  lively  and  piercing,  and  his  rather  contracted  features 
expressed  a keen,  shrewd  and  unscrupulous  character.  He  was 
formerly  a hong  merchant  of  Canton,  and  is  still  best  known  to 
foreigners  by  his  old  name  of  Sam-qua.  He  spoke  the  “ pigeon 
English,”  or  commercial  jargon,  with  tolerable  fluency,  though 
the  conversation  was  partly  carried  on  in  Chinese,  by  Dr.  Par- 
ker. He  was  dressed  in  robes  of  a rich,  stiff  silk,  embroidered 
with  the  insignia  of  his  office,  and  wore  a cap  with  the  single 
peacock’s  feather  and  opaque  red  button  of  a mandarin  of  the 


344 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


third  class.  In  his  suite  was  the  Colonel  of  the  regular  troops 
stationed  at  Shanghai — a tall,  dignified  old  mandarin,  who  con- 
ducted himself  with  a grave  and  courteous  dignity,  beside  which 
the  Taou-tai,  with  his  fidgety  and  undecided  manners,  showed  to 
disadvantage.  On  entering  the  room  where  the  Commissioner 
received  them,  they  all  performed  the  Ko-tow^  or  national 
salutation,  by  clasping  their  hands  in  front  of  their  breasts,  and 
bowing  profoundly  with  a shaky  motion,  like  those  porcelain 
mandarins  with  which  we  are  all  familiar.  They  were  regaled 
with  tea,  champagne  and  port,  and  took  wine  with  great  gravity, 
rising  and  bowing  profoundly  when  they  drank.  After  leaving 
the  Commissioner  they  went  on  board  the  Susquehanna,  where 
Capt.  Buchanan  received  them  with  a salute  of  nine  guns. 
They  all  expressed  the  greatest  astonishment  and  admiration 
at  the  size  and  strength  of  the  vessel. 

During  the  visit.  Col.  Marshall  expressed  a wish  to  witness 
a review  of  the  Chinese  garrison  of  Shanghai,  and  the  Taou- 
tai  at  one  promised  to  make  a public  display  of  the  troops,  in 
order  to  exhibit  his  military  resources  to  the  foreign  commu- 
nity. Accordingly,  as  we  were  entering  the  city  the  next  after- 
noon, a frightful  clamor  of  gongs  announced  the  approach  of 
some  unusual  spectacle,  and  we  soon  became  aware  that  the 
Taou-tai  was  fulfilling  his  promise.  First  came  half-a-dozen  old 
six-pounders,  mounted  on  clumsy  carriages,  which  made  a 
frightful  clatter  as  they  rolled  over  the  rough  pavement. 
They  were  followed  by  porters  bearing  chests  of  ammunition, 
slung  from  bamboo  poles ; then  a company  of  soldiers  in  dark 
blue  dresses,  with  a circular  coat-of-arms  on  the  breast  and 
back,  armed  with  long  spears ; another  company,  with  ginjalls, 
a long,  heavy  stock,  mounted  on  a tripod  when  it  is  fired,  and 


A CHINESE  MILITARY  DISPLAY. 


345 


carrying  a ball  about  the  size  of  a grape-shot;  afterwards, 
more  spearmen,  alternating  with  companies  of  matchlocks, 
and  followed  by  more  lumbering  six-pounders,  chests  of  am- 
munition, gongs,  yellow  banners,  covered  with  hieroglyphics, 
and  other  curious  and  fantastic  objects — the  procession  rushing 
along  without  order  or  organization,  shouting  and  laughing,  oi 
brandishing  their  arms  in  the  most  uncouth  and  barbaric  style. 
Such  a display  never  was  witnessed  in  Shanghai  before.  There 
were  about  four  hundred  regular  soldiers,  some  of  whom  were 
exceedingly  well-formed,  lusty  men,  and  clothed  in  an  appro- 
priate costume — a short  tunic  girdled  around  the  waist,  full 
trowsers  gathered  at  the  knees,  and  tight  leggings — but  the 
greater  portion  were  evidently  porters  and  peasants,  hired  for 
the  ocasion,  to  swell  the  ranks  of  the  soldiery,  and  produce  an 
impression  of  the  Imperial  power. 

There  were  in  the  procession  some  very  curious  weapons, 
which  I do  not  suppose  any  other  army  in  the  world  can  ex- 
hibit. In  addition  to  pikes  for  sticking  the  enemy,  poles  for 
punching  them,  clubs  for  beating  them,  and  flails  for  threshing 
their  heads,  I saw  some  wooden  beams  about  five  feet  long 
with  handles  at  each  end,  the  use  of  which  is — to  push  them 
out  of  the  way  / When  part  of  the  procession  was  retarded 
at  any  point,  the  companies  behind  them  made  up  the  loss,  by 
rushing  down  the  street  at  full  speed,  leaping  in  the  air  as  they 
went,  charging  with  their  lances,  swinging  their  flails  and 
shaking  their  clubs,  with  cries  which  were  meant  to  be  terrific, 
but  which  were  ludicrous  in  the  extreme.  Among  the  officers, 
who  rode  on  shaggy  native  ponies,  we  recognized  the  venerable 
Colonel,  who  bowed  to  us  with  a touch  of  pride  in  passing. 
Last  of  all,  preceded  by  yellow  banners  and  a deafening  tem- 
15* 


346 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


pest  of  gongs,  came  the  Taou-tai  himself,  in  his  green  sedan 
chair,  followed  by  the  Grovernment  executioners,  in  red  dresses 
and  high  conical  caps,  decorated  with  the  long  tail-feathers  of 
the  pheasant.  The  grave  and  self-satisfied  air  cf  the  high 
official  was  most  amusing.  The  whole  thing  was  like  a Chinese 
travesty  of  Don  Quixote.  After  parading  through  the  prin- 
cipal streets  of  the  foreign  settlement,  the  procession  returned 
to  the  city,  which  it  entered  by  the  western  gate. 

A few  days  afterwards.  Col.  Marshall  returned  the  visit  of 
the  Taou-tai,  at  his  official  residence  within  the  city.  He  was 
accompanied  by  Dr.  Parker,  Secretary  of  Legation,  and  Mr. 
Cunningham,  Vice-Consul.  The  party  set  out  in  sedan  chairs, 
crimson  cards  having  been  sent  in  advance,  according  to  Chinese 
custom.  Along  the  way — a distance  of  a mile  or  more — the 
Taou-tai  had  stationed  attendants  with  gongs,  which  were  dire- 
fully  beaten,  as  we  passed.  It  was  a raw,  rainy  day,  and  the 
streets  had  more  than  their  usual  quantity  of  mud  and  filth. 
After  entering  the  city  gate,  I,  who  was  last  in  the  procession, 
was  rather  startled  at  finding  my  chair  suddenly  dropped  in  the 
mud.  Looking  out,  I found  the  bearers  deliberately  bargaining 
at  a stall  for  new  straw-sandals,  which  they  purchased  and  put 
on  their  feet  leisurely  enough,  before  they  picked  me  up  again. 
On  reaching  the  Taou-tai’s  residence,  the  salute  of  three  guns 
had  been  fired,  and  the  discordant  noises  of  a dozen  dire  instru- 
ments were  dying  away.  I was  carried  through  a wooden  por- 
tal of  a dark-red  color,  across  a paved  court-yard,  and  finally 
deposited  in  a portico  or  verandah,  where  the  Taou-tai  had  just 
formally  received  the  Commissioner  and  the  rest  of  his  suite. 
The  attendants  made  a loud  announcement  of  some  kind  as  I 


VISIT  TO  THE  TAOU-TAI. 


347 


passed  the  portal,  which  was  repeated  from  one  to  the  other, 
till  it  reached  the  Taou-tai  at  the  same  time  with  myself. 

We  were  conducted  through  a plain  but  spacious  hall,  open 
on  two  sides  to  the  air,  across  a small  inner  court,  and  into 
another  hall,  or  audience-room,  partially  closed  by  movable 
screens.  It  was  gaudily  furnished,  but  without  an  extravagant 
show  of  wealth.  The  predominant  color  was  dark-red,  and 
the  walls  were  relieved  with  painted  tablets  of  light-blue  or 
green,  containing  long  inscriptions.  The  floor  was  covered 
with  a red  felt  cloth,  and  straight-backed  chairs  of  camphor- 
wood  were  placed  around  small  tables  of  the  same  material, 
containing  boxes  of  sweetmeats.  The  Commissioner  was  con- 
ducted to  a raised  divan  in  the  centre,  covered  with  red  'doth, 
upon  which  he  and  the  Taou-tai  seated  themselves,  with  refresh- 
ments between  them.  The  latter  was  more  at  his  ease  than  on 
the  former  occasion,  and  did  the  honors  of  his  mansion  with 
more  grace  than  I had  anticipated.  The  conversation  was 
animated,  and  principally  of  a general  nature,  though  he  made 
occasional  reference  to  the  rebellion.  After  his  manifestoes 
concerning  the  success  of  the  Imperialists,  I did  not  consider 
his  expressions  on  the  subject  as  worthy  of  much  attention, 
and  the  commencement  of  the  material  part  of  the  entertain- 
ment soon  gave  me  a more  interesting  field  of  observation. 

Cups  of  birds-nest  soup  were  presented  to  us,  together  with 
porcelain  spoons  and  chop-sticks  of  ivory  and  silver.  This 
curious  dish  fully  justifies  the  taste  of  the  Chinese ; it  is  exceed- 
ingly delicate  and  nutritious.  The  Chinese  wine,  served  warm, 
*n  square  silver  cups,  was  also  quite  palatable,  and  there  was 
a preparation  of  almonds,  sugar,  and  rice  flour,  boiled  into  a 
paste,  to  which  we  all  did  full  justice.  It  was,  however,  a light 


348 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


collation  rather  than  a regular  meal,  and  the  greater  part  con- 
sisted of  dried  and  candied  fruits,  such  as  oranges,  dates,  citrons 
and  various  kinds  of  nuts.  At  the  -conclusion  segars  were 
offered  to  us,  while  the  Taou-tai  took  his  bamboo  pipe.  There 
was  a host  of  attendants,  all  prompt,  silent,  and  respectful. 
Sam-qua  was  too  long  a resident  of  Canton,  not  to  have  taken 
some  hints  from  the  habits  of  the  foreign  merchants  there. 

At  our  departure,  he  accompanied  the  Commissioner  to  the 
outer  court.  Three  guns  were  fired  off  as  the  chair  of  the  lat- 
ter passed  through  the  portal;  the  musicians,  stationed  in  a 
gallery  on  the  side  of  the  court,  struck  up  a horrible  discord, 
which  made  the  gongs  that  sounded  along  our  homeward 
march  melodious  by  contrast.  The  curious  natives  thronged 
the  streets,  to  stare  at  us,  and  it  was  a relief  when  we  reached 
the  foreign  suburb  of  Shanghai 


CHAPTEB  XXVIII. 


mOIDENTS  OP  LIFE  IN  SHANGHAI. 

Spring  at  Shanghai — Appearance  of  the  Country — Crops — National  Conveyance  of 
China— Houses  of  the  Lower  Classes— Sail  on  the  Eiver— The  Pagoda— Village 
Market — Sweetmeats  and  Children — Showers  of  Cash — Chinese  Horticultural  Exhi  • 
bition — ^The  Lan-whei — Chinese  Love  of  Monstrosity — Moral  Depravity  of  the  Race 
— Landscape  Gardening— A Soldier  and  his  Drill— The  Cangue— Visit  of  the  Hermes 
to  Nanking— The  Rebels— Their  Christianity— Condition  of  the  City— Arrival  of  the 
U.  S.  Steam-Frigate  MiAsissvppi — Commodore  Perry — Col,  Marshall’s  Chinese 
Dinner — Mr.  Robert  Fortune. 


Spring,  at  Shanghai,  comes  slowly.  When  we  arrived,  at  the 
close  of  March,  the  trees  were  budding  into  leaf,  but  did  not 
attain  their  full  foliage  before  the  middle  of  May.  The  wea- 
ther during  April  was  dull  and  showery,  with  a lower  temper- 
ature than  would  be  looked  for  elsewhere  in  the  same  latitude. 
There  was  scarcely  an  evening  when  fire  was  not  necessary  to 
our  comfort.  Until  all  the  summer  crops  had  been  planted, 
and  for  a week  or  two  afterwards,  there  was  little  satisfaction 
in  going  into  the  country,  where  the  vernal  odors  of  grass 
and  flowers  were  wholly  lost  in  the  intolerable  stench  arising 
from  pits  of  manure.  But  towards  the  end  of  April,  when  the 
rumors  of  war  became  less  frequent,  when  the  shocks  of  earth 


350 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


quakes  had  subsided,  and  the  sun  made  his  appearance  from 
time  to  time,  I took  many  afternoon  strolls  in  various  direc- 
tions, and  became  familiar  with  the  country  life  of  the 
Chinese. 

There  is  nothing  striking  or  picturesque  in  the  scenery  of 
this  pan  of  China.  The  country  is  a dead  level,  watered  with 
sluggish  creeks,  and  intersected  with  ditches  and  canals.  It  is 
studded  far  and  near  with  shapeless  mounds  of  earth  erected 
over  obsolete  natives ; sparingly  dotted  with  clumps  of  dark 
cedar-trees  or  plantations  of  the  inestimable  bamboo,  and  enli- 
vened by  occasional  hamlets,  which,  shaded  with  bushy  willows, 
have  a pleasant,  rural  aspect  when  seen  from  a distance,  but 
are  mostly  disgusting  when  you  draw  near.  The  soil  is  a very 
rich  clayey  loam,  and  yields  abundant  crops  of  rice,  wheat, 
sweet  potatoes,  beets,  beans,  pea-nuts,  and  the  other  staples  of 
Chinese  food.  Much  of  it  must  have  been  originally  marsh 
land,  which  has  been  drained  by  canals  and  the  gradual  rise 
of  the  coast,  from  the  deposits  of  the  Yang-tse-Kiang.  The 
paths  from  village  to  village  are  on  narrow  dykes,  winding  be- 
tween the  fields,  and  crossing  the  ditches  by  bridges  formed  of 
single  large  slabs  of  granite,  which  are  brought  down  from  the 
hills.  Occasionally  you  see  a highway,  six  or  eight  feet  broad, 
pav^ed  with  blocks  of  stone,  laid  transversely,  but  I doubt 
whether  a carriage  could  go  in  any  direction  further  than  two 
or  three  miles  from  the  city.  I sometimes  met  a Chinaman 
of  the  better  class  mounted  on  a sturdy  little  pony,  and  once 
encountered  a traveller  from  Soo-Chow  in  the  national  con- 
veyance of  China — the  wheelbarrow  1 He  was  seated  side- 
ways, with  his  legs  dangling  below,  while  his  baggage,  placed 
on  the  opposite  side,  served  to  trim  the  vehicle.  It  was  a one- 


HOUSES  OF  THE  LOWER  CLASSES. 


351 


horse  wheelbarrow,  propelled  by  a stout  coolie,  with  a strap 
over  his  shoulders,  and  made  a doleful  creaking  as  it  passed. 
The  persons  whom  I met  showed  every  sign  of  civility  and  re- 
spect, and  had  time  permitted,  I might  have  extended  my  strolls 
to  a distance  of  thirty  or  forty  miles,  without  meeting  any  hin- 
drance. In  the  villages  I frequently  entered  the  houses  of  the 
people,  to  which  they  made  no  objection,  but  seemed  rather 
gratified  at  the  distinction.  The  domestic  arrangements  were 
very  simple ; the  dwellings  were  all  of  one  story,  rarely  having 
more  than  two  rooms,  and  containing  only  the  rudest  appliances 
of  a household.  The  beds  were  usually  of  matting,  with  bam- 
boo pillows,  but  the  poorer  natives  slept  upon  coarse  mats  laid 
upon  the  earth,  with  wooden  stools  under  their  heads.  It 
is  not  advisable  to  be  too  curious,  or  to  spend  much  time  in 
inspecting  Chinese  dwellings,  on  account  of  their  abundant 
vitality.  For  the  same  reason,  many  features  of  domestic  life 
among  the  lower  classes  must  be  passed  over  in  silence. 

We  made  an  excursion  one  morning  to  the  pagoda,  which 
stands  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Whang-po  Eiver,  about  eight 
miles  above  the  city.  The  wind  was  fair,  and  Mr.  Cunning- 
ham’s fleet  clipper-yacht  soon  carried  us  past  the  thousand 
junks  and  notched  brick  walls  of  Shanghai.  It  was  in  the  be- 
ginning of  May,  and  the  shores,  low  and  greenly  wooded,  bore 
some  resemblance  to  those  of  the  Delaware,  below  Philadel- 
phia. We  passed  several  large  junks,  which  had  come  through 
from  the  Bay  of  Hang-Chow,  by  a canal  which  leads  from  the 
old  city  of  Chapoo  to  the  Whang-po  Biver.  After  a run  of 
an  hour  and  half,  we  moored  the  yacht  at  the  mouth  of  a small 
creek,  and  walked  to  the  pagoda,  which  was  a quarter  of  a 
mile  distant.  It  is  built  of  pale  red'  sandstone,  and  with  its 


352 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


ten  stories  diminisliing  in  beautiful  proportion,  each  over- 
hung by  a pointed,  up-turned  roof,  it  is  truly  a graceful  ob- 
ject. The  pagodas  are  the  only  symmetrical  things  in 
Chinese  architecture,  and  I think  it  doubtful  whether  the  idea 
of  them  was  not  first  borrowed  from  India.  All  of  those  which 
I saw,  or  which  travellers  generally  see  in  China,  are  compa- 
ratively modern. 

There  was  a little  village  scattered  about  the  foot  of  the 
structure,  and  the  country  people  were  holding  a market  there. 
The  supply  of  vegetables,  sweetmeats,  and  cheap,  coarse  articles 
of  dress  was  very  large:  the  jugglers  were  present  in  strong 
force,  and  the  beggars  were  over-zealous  in  their  attendance, 
I amused  myself  with  buying  many  varieties  of  nondescript 
pastry  and  confects,  at  such  cheap  rates,  that  it  was  difficult  to 
pay  little  enough.  I then  distributed  my  purchases  among  the 
children,  the  larger  of  whom  took  them  with  avidity,  while 
the  younger  and  more  shy  held  back  from  the  foreign  barba- 
rian, until  encouraged  by  their  pleased  parents.  To  escape 
from  the  popularity  which  followed,  we  climbed  to  the  summit 
of  the  pagoda,  whence  we  beheld  a circular  panorama,  de- 
scribed by  a radius  of  twenty-five  miles.  It  was  beautiful 
only  from  its  extent,  and  its  monotony  of  green,  through  which 
wandered  a few  brown  veins  of  rivers.  I soon  turned  to  con- 
template the  more  animated  manscape  at  my  feet.  Seeing  a 
crowd  of  beggars  standing  together  in  dejected  attitudes,  I 
cast  a handful  of  cash  into  the  air,  in  such  wise  that  the  coins 
would  fall  plump  among  them,  and  then  dropped  behind  the 
parapet  of  the  pagoda.  There  was  a metallic  rattle  on  the 
stones,  followed  by  a cry  of  amazement,  for  nothing  was  visi- 
ble, of  course,  and  they  had  not  seen  us  ascend  the  pagoda. 


A CHINESE  FLORAL  EXHIBITION. 


353 


Several  other  miraculous  showers  followed,  but  a desire  to  see 
the  beggars  scramble,  betrayed  us  at  last.  We  were  greeted 
with  loud  cries,  and  arms  thrown  greedily  aloft,  beckoning 
for  more.  I cast  among  them  upwards  of  twenty  handfuls,  and 
by  thus  expending  the  munificent  sum  of  forty  cents,  enjoyed 
the  feelings  of  a monarch,  who  scatters  golden  largesse. 

One  day  I attended  a native  horticultural  exhibition, 
which  was  held  in  an  old  temple,  within  the  walls.  The  open 
courts  of  the  building  were  filled  with  rows  of  flowering 
plants,  in  earthen  pots  and  vases,  which  were  also  arranged  in 
circles  around  some  weak  fountains  in  the  centre.  There 
were  some  fine  specimens  of  the  maw-tan^  or  peony,  white,  pink, 
and  crimson,  and  with  an  odor  very  similar  to  that  of  the  rose; 
but  the  most  admired  flower  seemed  to  be  the  lan-whe%  a bul- 
bous water-plant,  with  a blossom  resembling  that  of  the  orchids 
in  form,  yet  of  a dirty  yellowish-green  hue.  The  great  aim 
of  the  Chinese  florist  is  to  produce  something  as  much  unlike 
nature  as  possible,  and  thus  this  blossom,  which,  for  aught  I 
know,  may  be  pure  white,  or  yellow,  in  its  native  state,  is 
changed  into  a sickly,  mongrel  color,  as  if  it  were  afflicted 
with  a vegetable  jaundice,  or  leprosy.  There  was  a crowd  of 
enthusiastic  admirers  around  each  of  the  ugliest  specimens,  and 
I was  told  that  one  plant,  which  was  absolutely  loathsome  and 
repulsive  in  its  appearance,  was  valued  at  three  hundred 
dollars.  The  only  taste  which  the  Chinese  exhibit  to  any 
degree,  is  a love  of  the  monstrous.  That  sentiment  of  harmo- 
ny, which  throbbed  like  a musical  rhythm  through  the  life  of 
the  Greeks,  never  looked  out  of  their  oblique  eyes.  Theii 
music  is  a dreadful  discord;  their  language  is  composed  of  na- 
sals and  consonants;  they  admire  whatever  is  distorted  or  un- 


354 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


natural,  and  tLe  wider  its  divergence  from  its  original  beaut), 
or  symmetry,  the  greater  is  their  delight. 

This  mental  idiosyncrasy  includes  a moral  one,  of  similar 
character.  It  is  my  deliberate  opinion  that  the  Chinese  are, 
morally,  the  most  debased  people  on  the  face  of  the  earth. 
Forms  of  vice  which  in  other  countries  are  barely  named,  are 
in  China  so  common,  that  they  excite  no  comment  among  the 
natives.  They  constitute  the  surface-level,  and  below  them 
there  are  deeps  on  deeps  of  depravity  so  shocking  and  horrible, 
that  their  character  cannot  even  be  hinted.  There  are  some 
dark  shadows  in  human  nature,  which  we  naturally  shrink 
from  penetrating,  and  I made  no  attempt  to  collect  informa- 
tion of  this  kind;  but  there  was  enough  in  the  things  which  I 
could  not  avoid  seeing  and  hearing — which  are  brought  almost 
daily  to  the  notice  of  every  foreign  resident — to  inspire  me 
with  a powerful  aversion  to  the  Chinese  racei.  Their  touch  is 
pollution,  and,  harsh  as  the  opinion  may  seem,  justice  to  our 
own  race  demands  that  they  should  not  be  allowed  to  settle 
on  our  soil.  Science  may  have  lost  something,  but  mankind 
has  gained,  by  ^e  exclusive  policy  which  has  governed  China 
during  the  past  centuries. 

I soon  grew  tired  of  the  jaundiced  lan-wheis^  and  diverted 
myself  with  examining  a labyrinthine  garden  in  the  rear  of  the 
temple.  It  was  a piece  of  rock-work,  of  the  most  absurd  and 
grotesque  character.  The  fragments  of  gray,  disintegrated 
limestone  were  plastered  and  riveted  together  in  the  form  of 
precipices  and  mountain-peaks,  one  of  which  was  at  least  twenty 
feet  high,  with  a cork-screw  path  encirling  it  many  times  be- 
fore it  allowed  the  adventurous  traveller  to  mount  the  cap- 
stone. In  the  crevices  of  the  rocks  were  little  basins  of  soil, 


A SOLDIER  AND  HIS  DRILL. 


355 


in  which  magnolias  and  mau-tans  were  growing,  while,  far 
down  in  the  depths  of  the  valleys  yon  saw  several  green,  slimy 
lakes,  from  three  to  five  feet  in  length.  After  having  suffi- 
ciently enjoyed  this  sublime  view,  I discovered  a means  of 
exit  through  a low,  arched  grotto  into  the  street,  and  did  not 
scruple  to  make  use  of  it. 

Continuing  my  walk  at  random,  I came  to  a very  old,  di- 
lapidated temple,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  city.  The  jolly 
fat  idols  had  been  removed,  and  the  place  was  occupied  as  a 
barrack  by  some  of  the  Taou-tai’s  troops.  Several  indolent 
soldiers  were  hanging  about  a tank  of  water  in  the  centre  of  the 
court-yard,  and  the  thought  of  seeing  a Chinese  military  drill 
came  into  my  mind.  I offered  the  least  lazy  and  most  good- 
humored  of  the  party  fifty  cash  to  perform  his  exercise,  and 
found  him  quite  willing  to  comply.  He  soon  appeared  with  a 
wooden  weapon  about  five  feet  long  and  one  foot  wide,  with  a 
handle  like  that  of  a fiddle-bow,, running  parallel  to  its  length, 
and  fastened  at  each  end.  This  he  brandished  in  the  air,  first 
on  one  side,  then  on  the  other,  sometimes  swinging  it  like  an 
axe,  sometimes  drawing  it  downwards  with  both  hands  like  a 
comb,  and  occasionally  thrusting  one  end  of  it  behind  him,  as 
if  he  was  warding  off  an  attack  in  the  rear.  The  attitudes 
were  very  amusing,  and  each  imaginary  blow  was  accompanied 
with  a howl  of  defiance,  and  an  expression  of  face  which  was 
meant  to  be  terrific.  The  performance  lasted  about  half  an 
hour,  and  I considered  that  the  cash  were  well  earned. 

On  my  return  home,  I saw  near  the  city  gate  a man  suf- 
fering the  punishment  of  the  cangue.  This  is  a heavy  wooden 
wheel,  which  is  fastened  around  the  criminal’s  neck,  and  pro- 
jects outwards  so  far  that  he  cannot  touch  his  head  with  his 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


35fi 

hands.  He  therefore  runs  the  risk  of  starvation,  unless  he  has 
friends  or  relations,  who  are  able  and  willing  to  feed  him  All^ 
the  inconveniences  resulting  from  this  mode  of  punishment  soon 
become  tortures,  and  when  the  culprit  is  sentenced  to  undergo 
it  for  two  or  three  months,  his  plight  would  be  insupportable 
to  any  but  a Chinaman.  The  man  in  question  had  a wretched, 
haggard  look,  but  I saw  no  one  who  seemed  to  commiserate 
him  in  the  least. 

On  the  23d  of  April,  the  British  war-steamer  Hermes  left 
for  Nanking,  with  Sir  George  Bonham  on  board.  As  the 
Hermes  drew  four  or  five  feet  less  water  than  the  Susquehan- 
na^ it  was  supposed  that  she  would  be  able  to  proceed  up  the 
Yang-tse-Kiang.  Sir  George’s  object  was  to  communicate 
with  the  rebels,  and  inform  them  of  the  entire  neutrality  of 
the  foreign  powers.  The  Taou-tai  of  Shanghai  had  circulated 
reports  throughout  the  interior,  that  all  the  foreign  war- 
steamers  were  in  league  with  him,  and  were  to  be  dispatched 
to  Nanking.  The  Hermes  retu’^ned  on  the  5th  of  May,  having 
been  absent  twelve  days.  She  was  four  days  in  reaching 
Nanking,  having  twice  grounded  in  the  river.  She  passed  the 
outposts  of  the  rebel  army  near  Chin-Kiang-foo,  where  she  was 
fired  upon,  but  very  slightly  damaged.  Having  reached  the 
anchorage  at  Nanking,  the  officers  succeeded  in  communicating 
with  the  rebel  chiefs,  by  whom  they  were  well  received.  The 
latter  stated  that  they  were  not  hostile  to  foreigners,  and  had 
never  intended  to  attack  Shanghai.  They  professed  to  be 
Christians,  and  declared  that  their  leader,  Tae-ping,  was  a 
younger  brother  of  Jesus  Christ.  From  various  indications, 
however,  it  was  supposed  that  their  Christianity,  such  as  it  was, 
was  founded  on  the  belief  that,  through  its  supernatural  influ- 


THE  HERMES  AT  NANKING. 


357 


ence,  they  would  obtain  the  same  divine  favor  to  which  they 
ascribed  the  success  of  the  English  in  the  late  Chinese  war. 

Mr.  Meadows  sent  to  the  American  Embassy  copies  of 
books  which  were  obtained  from  the  rebels.  Among  them 
was  Grutzlaff’s  translation  of  the  book  of  Genesis.  They  also 
had  the  Ten  Commandments,  which  they  promulgated  as  a 
divine  law,  changing  the  seventh  so  as  to  read  thus : “ Thou 
shalt  not  commit  adultery,  nor  smoke  opium.”  The  latter  of- 
fence is  punished  with  death.  The  chief  Tae-ping  (Universal 
Peace,)  was  not  seen  by  Sir  George  Bonham,  nor  any  of  his 
suite.  He  professed  to  be  divinely  inspired,  receiving  his  com- 
munications direct  from  the  Almighty.  Nanking  was  almost 
wholly  deserted  by  its  former  inhabitants,  and  its  streets  pre- 
sented a pitiable  spectacle.  The  rebels  went  about  dressed  in 
gorgeous  silks,  which  they  had  taken  from  the  despoiled  shops 
of  the  merchants;  sycee  silver  was  abundant,  and  the  most 
extravagant  prices  were  paid  for  umbrellas,  buttons,  pistols, 
old  clothes,  and  other  articles  on  board  the  Hermes.  Many  of 
the  sailors  made  large  sums  in  thus  disposing  of  their  super- 
fluous garments.  A splendid  robe  of  the  most  costly  furs  was 
given  in  exchange  for  a worn-out  midshipman’s  uniform. 
Hundreds  of  the  rebels  visited  the  Hermes,  while  she  lay  be- 
fore the  city,  and  some  of  her  officers  went  ashore,  and  even 
passed  a night  among  the  people,  without  the  least  molesta- 
tion. 

The  steamer  Bombay  arrived  on  the  3d  of  May,  bringing 
the  long-delayed  European  and  American  mails,  together  with 
the  intelligence  that  the  U.  S.  steam-frigate  Mississippi^  the 
flag-ship  of  the  Japan  Expedition  had  left  Hong  Kong  for 
Shanghai,  Early  on  the  following  morning,  we  saw  from  the 


358 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


house-top,  through  a glass,  her  broad  pennant  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Woosung  River.  Although  drawing  more  than  twenty 
feet,  she  succeeded  in  crossing  the  bar  without  delay,  and  came 
up  to  the  city,  where  she  dropped  anchor  beside  the  Susque- 
hanna. On  the  9th  of  May,  Commodore  Perry  transferred  his 
pennant  to  the  latter  vessel,  with  the  usual  ceremonies  of  firing 
salutes  and  manning  the  yards — a spectacle  which  drew  the 
greater  part  of  Shanghai  to  the  hund.  The  Commodore  be- 
came a guest  at  the  American  Consulate  for  the  remainder  of 
his  stay,  and  his  presence  and  that  of  the  Mississippi’s  ofl&cers, 
gave  a fresh  impetus  to  the  social  activity  of  the  foreign  popu- 
lation. Thenceforth  there  were  balls,  dinners,  and  other  en- 
tertainments, in  great  abundance. 

Among  these  festivities,  the  most  notable  was  a Chinese 
dinner  which  Col.  Marshall  gave  at  the  Consulate.  The  build- 
ing was  in  a blaze  of  lanterns  and  flowers.  An  arched  ave- 
nue of  colored  lights  led  from  the  gate  to  the  door,  where  the 
visitor  ascended  between  a double  row  of  fragrant  white  and 
crimson  mau-ians  to  the  first  story.  Here,  the  quaint  silk 
lanterns  were  redoubled;  curious  baskets  and  urns  of  grass 
and  shells,  filled  with  flowers,  were  suspended  from  the  ceiling, 
and  the  dining-room,  handsomely  draped  with  flags,  contained 
a veritable  bower  or  arbor  of  greenery  enshrining  the  Ameri- 
can eagle.  The  dinner  was  prepared  with  great  care,  not  only 
the  Taou-tai’s  silver  cups  and  chopsticks,  but  even  his  cook 
having  been  borrowed  for  the  occasion.  The  dishes  were 
numerous  and  palatable,  but  hardly  substantial  enough  for  a 
civilized  taste.  They  were  mostly  soups,  and  some  of  them 
were  distinguished  by  very  peculiar  flavors,  which  I found 
difficult  to  analyze.  The  choicest  dishes  were  bird’s-nest  soup 


ROBERT  FORTUNE. 


359 


shark’s  fins,  and  a dark,  stringy  substance,  which  tne  Taou-tai 
said  he  had  procured  from  Pekin,  at  great  expense.  The  dim 
ner  was  followed  by  a grand  ball,  and  a supper  in  European 
style. 

There  were  rumors  of  trouble  at  Ningpo,  and  the  French 
steamer  Cassini  made  a trip  to  that  city.  Mr.  Kobert  For- 
tune, author  of  “Wanderings  in  China,”  and  “A  Journey  to 
the  Bohea  Mountains,”  who  had  arrived  in  Shanghai  a short 
time  previous,  also  left  for  Ningpo,  whence  he  proposed  making 
new  journeys  into  the  interior.  Mr.  Fortune  is  a plain,  unas- 
suming man,  and  an  enthusiastic  botanist,  and  by  his  daring 
excursions  into  the  tea  districts,  has  added  greatly  to  our 
knowledge  of  the  interior  of  China.  Mr.  Forbes,  who  went  to 
Ningpo  in  the  Cassini,  returned  about  the  10th  of  May  in  a 
Chinese  junk,  by  way  of  Chapoo. 


CHAPTEK  XXIX. 

THE  U.  8.  EXPEDITION  TO  JAPAN. 

Stole  of  Things  at  Shanghai — The  Sloop-of-War  Plymouth — Preparations  for  Depart 
lire — ^Entering  the  Naval  Service — Its  Eegulations — Procuring  a Uniform — ^The 
Master’s-Mates — Establishing  a Mess — Departure  for  Japan — A Gale — Shipwrecks — 
Standing  out  to  Sea — Arrival  at  the  Great  Loo-Choo  Island — A Missionary — Beauty 
of  the  Harbor  of  Napa — The  Native  Authorities — Going  Ashore — Jumping  over  a 
Coral  Eeef— Landing— The  Town  of  Napa-Kiang— Spies — ^Dr.  Bettelheim’s  Eesi 
dence. 


Immediately  after  the  transfer  of  Commodore  Perry’s  broad 
pennant  to  the  Susquehanna^  active  preparations  were  made 
for  the  departure  of  the  squadron  on  its  mission  to  Japan 
Since  the  return  of  the  Hermes  from  Nanking,  there  was  very 
little  apprehension  of  danger,  either  among  the  Chinese  or  the 
foreign  residents.  The  former  had  very  generally  returned  to 
their  homes  and  opened  their  shops,  in  accordance  with  the 
Taou-tai’s  commands.  The  American  commercial  houses, 
nevertheless,  addressed  a letter  to  Col.  Marshall,  asking  that 
they  should  not  be  left  entirely  defenceless — on  account  of 
which  application.  Commodore  Perry  detached  the  sloop-of-wai 
Plymouth  from  the  squadron  for  a few  weeks  longer.  Col. 
Marshall,  wlio  had  as  yet  not  b:‘‘cn  able  to  find  a proper  Chinese 


ENTERING  THE  NAVAL  SERVICE. 


361 


official  to  receive  his  letters  of  credence,  finally  made  applica- 
tion to  the  Court  at  Pekin.  He  desired  to  proceed  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Pai-ho  River,  in  the  Yellow  Sea,  and  there  await 
his  answer,  but  a council  of  sailing-masters,  called  together  by 
the  Commodore,  reported,  after  a long  consultation,  that  it 
would  be  impossible  to  get  within  sight  of  the  shore  in  a 
vessel  drawing  so  much  water  as  the  Flymouth.  Tuesday, 
the  l7th  of  May,  was  appointed  for  the  departure  of  the  Sus- 
quehanna and  Mississippi,  the  sloop-of-war  Saratoga  having 
already  sailed  from  Macao  for  an  unknown  rendezvous. 

I had  extended  my  travels  to  China  with  a strong  hope  of 
being  able  to  accompany  the  Expedition  to  Japan.  On  the 
arrival  of  Commodore  Perry,  I learned  that  very  strict  orders 
had  been  issued  by  the  Navy  Department  against  the  admis- 
sion on  board  of  any  of  the  vessels,  of  any  person  not  attached 
to  the  service  and  subject  to  its  regulations.  Capt.  Buchanan, 
who  had  no  clerk,  and  was  justly  entitled  to  one,  very  kindly 
proposed  that  I should  go  in  that  capacity ; but  as  there  were 
two  vacancies  in  the  rank  of  master’s-mate,  which  the  Commo- 
dore had  power  to  fill,  and  as  my  willingness  to  enter  the 
service  temporarily,  removed  the  only  objection  he  had  urged, 
I decided  to  take  the  latter  chance.  I therefore  signed  an 
article  of  allegiance,  and  became  an  officer  of  very  moderate 
rank,  with  unlimited  respect  for  my  superiors,  and  the  reverse 
for  my  inferiors.  This  enlistment,  which  I most  gladly  and 
readily  made,  rendered  me  subject  to  all  the  regulations  of  the 
Navy  Department;  especially  to  that  order  promulgated  for 
the  benefit  of  the  officers  of  the  Expedition,  which  obliged 
them  to  give  up  to  the  Department  every  journal,  note,  sketch, 
or  observation  of  any  kind  made  during  the  cruise.  I there 
16 


362 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


fore  closed  my  old  journal,  and  commenced  a new  one  from  the 
day  I entered — which  latter  is  now  in  possession  of  the  Navy 
Department,  according  to  agreement.  Nearly  all  the  officers, 
on  the  contrary,  had  ceased  keeping  journals  from  the  day  the 
order  was  issued.  I should  have  had  some  hesitation  in  sub- 
mitting myself  to  that  almost  absolute  power,  which  is  the  life 
of  the  Naval  Service,  had  I not  already  known  so  well  the 
officers  of  the  Susquehanna.  My  confidence  was  not  misplaced, 
for,  from  the  Commodore  down,  with  but  a single  exception,  I 
received  nothing  from  them  but  kindness  and  courtesy,  during 
my  connection  with  the  service. 

I had  some  dfficulty  in  procuring  the  necessary  uniforms. 
There  were  none  but  Chinese  tailors  in  Shanghai,  who  work 
entirely  from  ready-made  patterns.  By  foraging  among  the 
officers  I procured  a sufficient  number  of  anchor  buttons,  and 
a crest  for  my  cap ; in  the  shop  of  a French  merchant  I found 
some  cloth  of  the  proper  solor ; I borrowed  one  coat  for  the 
sleeves,  another  for  the  body,  and  another  for  the  arrangement 
of  buttons ; and  by  keeping  a watchful  eye  upon  the  tailor, 
finally  succeeded  in  obtaining  both  undress  and  full-dress  uni- 
forms, which  came  within  two  buttons  of  being  correct. 
Having  assumed  the  blue,  and  buttoned  my  coat  up  to  the 
throat  in  order  to  display  the  eighteen  gilded  eagles  and  anchors 
which  decorated  its  front,  I walked  down  the  bund  to  try  its 
effect.  I endeavored  to  appear  careless  and  self-possessed,  but 
the  first  man-of-war-sman  who  passed  betrayed  me.  I know 
that  I actually  blushed  when  he  lifted  his  tarpaulin,  and  T 
doubt  to  this  day  whether  I returned  his  salute.  A little 
further,  a jolly,  red-headed  tar,  with  a large  cargo  of  samshoo 
aboard,  came  up  and  shook  my  hand  heartily,  promising  me  an. 


E'^TABLTSHING  A MESS. 


363 


oyster-supper  in  New  York,  after  our  return.  I felt  more  at 
home  in  the  service  after  such  a characteristic  welcome,  and 
was  not  afterwards  embarrassed  by  my  buttons. 

The  places  of  acting  master’s-mates  (the  rank  of  warranted 
master’s-mates  being  now  obsolete)  had  been  purposely  left 
vacant,  in  order  that  it  might  be  filled  by  artists  and  natu- 
ralists, who  would  thus  belong  to  the  service  and  be  under  the 
control  of  its  officers.  The  rank  and  uniform  is  that  of  a 
passed  midshipman,  but  the  pay — twenty-five  dollars  a month — 
is  considerably  less  than  half  of  what  the  latter  receives 
On  the  East  India  station  it  just  about  suffices  for  the  pay- 
ment of  the  mess-bill.  There  were  three  master’s-mates  on 
board  the  Mississippi — Mr.  Heine,  the  artist;  Mr.  Draper, 
who  had  charge  of  the  telegraph  apparatus ; and  Mr.  Brown, 
daguerreotypist.  As  they  were  specially  subject  to  the  Com- 
modore’s orders,  they  were  transferred  to  the  Susquehanna,  and 
I joined  them  in  forming  a separate  mess,  to  which  was  added 
Mr.  Portman,  the  Commodore’s  interpreter  and  clerk.  The 
vessel  was  so  crowded,  that  we  had  some  trouble  in  finding 
sufficient  room  for  our  mess-table  and  stores,  but  were  finally 
placed  upon  the  orlop  deck,  beside  the  main  hatch,  and  over 
the  powder  magazine.  My  cot  was  slung  in  the  same  place  at 
night,  where  it  was  brought  by  a sturdy  main-topman,  who 
had  it  in  his  particular  charge.  A cadaverous  Chinaman, 
A-fok  by  name,  was  shipped  as  our  steward,  and  an  incorrigible 
black  deck-hand  appropriated  to  us  as  cook.  We  were  thus 
provided  with  all  the  requisites  of  a mess,  and  although  there 
was  some  grumbling  from  time  to  time,  on  account  of  the  heat 
and  darkness  of  the  orlop  deck,  the  incompetency  of  the 
steward,  or  villainy  of  the  cook,  I found  my  situation 


364 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN 


quite  as  comfortable  as  I anticipated,  and  never  regretted 
having  embraced  it. 

A.t  last  the  day  of  our  departure,  the  17th  of  May,  arrived. 
It  was  a warm,  calm,  sunny  day,  and  as  the  black  volumes 
began  to  rise  from  the  smoke-stacks  of  the  two  steam-frigates, 
the  whole  foreign  population  of  Shanghai  flocked  down  to  the 
bund.  Mr.  Forbes  and  Mr.  Cunningham  came  on  board  for 
a pleasure  trip  to  the  Saddle  Islands,  whence  they  intended  re- 
turning in  a large  junk  which  had  been  sent  down  with  a final 
instalment  of  coal.  About  three  o’clock  the  cornet  was  hauled 
down,  the  anchor  hove,  and  we  slowly  threaded  our  way  through 
the  shipping,  the  band,  stationed  on  the  hurricane  deck,  play- 
ing in  answer  to  the  cheers  and  shouts  which  followed  us.  It 
was  an  exciting  moment,  for  we  were  now  leaving  the  frontiers 
of  commerce  and  national  intercourse,  and  our  next  port  would 
be  in  one  of  those  strange,  exclusive  realms  which  we  hoped 
to  open  to  the  world.  The  cannon  and  the  music  ceased ; the 
shouts  became  faint  and  died  away  altogether ; the  houses  of 
Shanghai  gradually  passed  out  of  sight,  and  before  sunset  we 
came  to  anchor  in  the  Yang-tse-Kiang,  off  Woosung. 

The  next  day  we  proceeded  down  the  river.  There  was  a 
gale  of  mingled  wind  and  rain,  and  we  ascertained  that  the 
store-ship  Supply ^ which  had  come  from  Hong  Kong  to  join 
the  squadron,  was  aground  on  the  North  Shoal.  She  was  in 
imminent  danger  for  a time,  but  was  finally  got  off  without 
damage.  In  the  evening,  the  junk  which  had  been  laden  with 
coal  ran  aground,  and  soon  became  a complete  wreck.  Her 
crew,  consisting  of  twelve  men,  were  with  difficulty  saved  by 
the  Mississippi’s  boats.  The  Susquehanna  had  a large  boat 
in  tow,  belonging  to  Mr.  Cunningham,  and  by  some  misman- 


PUTTING  OUT  TO  SEA. 


365 


iLgement  of  the  native  sailors,  one  side  of  it  was  stove  in  against 
the  frigate’s  quarter.  The  wreck  still  held  by  the  hawser, 
dragging  after  us,  the  sea  breaking  over  the  terrified  Chinese, 
who  pounded  their  foreheads  against  the  piece  of  deck  that  re- 
mained, and  implored  to  he  taken  off.  This  was  done  as  soon 
as  possible,  and  the  drenched  Celestials  had  no  sooner  touched 
our  deck  than  they  prostrated  themselves,  and  thumped  their 
heads  vigorously  at  the  feet  of  the  officer. 

On  account  of  the  gale,  and  the  dangerous  navigation  of 
the  Archipelago  of  Chusan,  the  squadron  remained  two  days 
near  the  Saddle  Islands.  The  weather  then  became  clear,  and 
Messrs.  Forbes  and  Cunningham,  with  the  shipwrecked  China- 
men, having  found  a means  of  return  to  Shanghai,  left  us,  and 
the  squadron  stood  out  to  sea.  Shortly  after  passing  the  islands 
a streak  of  dazzling  emerald  appeared  on  the  horizon,  herald- 
ing our  release  from  the  treacherous* waters  of  the  Yang-tse- 
Kiang.  The  brown,  iduddy  tint  gradually  passed  off  the  hem- 
isphere of  sea,  like  an  eclipse  from  the  face  of  the  sun ; the 
vessels  fell  into  line,  the  Susquehanna  in  advance,  and  the 
Mississippi,  with  the  Supply  in  tow,  following  on  our  port 
quarter,  and  we  were  at  last  under  way  for  the  unknown  ren- 
dezvous. The  ship’s  course  soon  revealed  to  us  what  we  had 
suspected — that  the  squadron  would  first  proceed  to  the  Great 
Loo-Choo  Island. 

With  calm  weather,  we  sailed  three  or  four  days  in  a south- 
east direction,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  26th  saw  some  scat- 
tered, uninhabitable  islands  belonging  to  the  Loo-Choo  group. ' 
The  day  was  clouded,  with  frequent  thunder-showers ; hut  we 
succeeded  in  making  the  Great  Loo-Choo  early  in  the  after- 
noon, and  with  the  assistance  of  Capt.  Beechey’s  chart,  felt  our 


366 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


way  into  the  harbor  of  Napa-Kiang,  at  its  south-western 
extremity,  before  dark.  As  the  island  first  came  in  sight  we 
descried  a vessel  off  the  weather-beam,  which  soon  proved  to 
be  the  Saratoga  making  her  way  up,  punctual  to  her  appoint- 
ment. The  first  landmark  we  made  was  Abbey  Point,  at  the 
southern  end  of  the  harbor,  by  means  of  which,  and  a curious 
bluff  called  Capstan  Rock,  we  were  enabled  to  find  the  nar- 
row entrance  leading  between  cora^  reefs  to  a safe  ancliorage 
within.  The  rain  began  to  fall  in  torrents  soon  after  our  ar- 
rival, and  the  green,  misty  hills  of  the  island  were  soon  lost 
in  the  gloom  pf  night. 

The  same  evening  a native  boat  came  off,  bringing  Dr.  Bet- 
telheim,  the  sole  European  resident  on  the  island.  He  was  a 
missionary,  who  had  been  placed  there  by  a society  of  Eng- 
lish naval  officers,  who,  about  seven  years  ago,  formed  the  de- 
sign of  Christianizing  thdse  parts,  and  selected  the  Dr.  as  their 
first  instrument.  It  was  eighteen  montfis  since  any  vessel  had 
touched  at  Napa,  and  the  missionary  came  on  board  in  a state 
of  great  excitement.  He  was  received  by  the  Commodore,  and 
after  a stay  of  an  hour,  returned  to  the  shore. 

When  the  next  morning  dawned,  bright  and  clear,  I thought 
I had  never  seen  a more  lovely  landscape  than  the  island  pre- 
sented. The  bay  was  clasped  by  an  amphitheatre  of  gently 
undulating  hills,  in  some  places  terraced  with  waving  rice-fields, 
in  others  covered  with  the  greenest  turf,  or  dotted  with  pictu- 
resque groups  of  trees.  Bowers  of  the  feathery  bamboo — ^next 
to  the  palm,  the  most  graceful  of  trees — almost  concealed  the 
dwellings  which  nestled  together  in  the  little  dells  opening  into 
the  bay,  and  which,  with  their  stone  enclosures  and  roofs  of  red 
tiles,  hinted  of  a much  higher  civilization  than  we  had  expected 


THE  BAY  OF  NAPA 


367 


The  spurs  of  the  hills  which  ran  down  to  the  sea  terminated  in 
abrupt  bluffs,  in  many  places  so  shattered  and  irregular  as  to 
resemble  castles  and  abbeys  in  ruins.  Beyond  and  to  the  right 
of  Capstan  Bock,  we  saw  the  houses  of  the  town  of  Napa,  with 
the  mouth  of  a little  estuary,  wherein  some  Chinese  and  Japa- 
nese junks  were  anchored ; while  on  the  top  of  the  highest  hill, 
three  or  four  miles  inland,  one  of  the  bastions  of  the  Begent’s 
castle  towered  above  the  trees.  The  exquisite  harmony  in  the 
forms  of  the  scene,  the  dazzling  green  of  the  foliage,  and  the 
sweet,  delicious  air  which  came  to  us  off  the  shore,  charmed  us 
like  a glimpse  of  Paradise,  after  the  monotonous  levels  and 
polluted  atmosphere  of  China. 

There  was  no  intercourse  with  the  shore  until  after  some 
negotiations  had  taken  place  between  the  Commodore  and  the 
high  native  dignitaries.  The  latter  came  off  in  rude,  flat-bot- 
tomed boats,  propelled  with  paddles.  They  were  exceedingly 
grave  and  dignified  men,  dressed  in  loose  robes  of  grass  cloth, 
and  with  curious  yellow  caps  on  their  heads.  Both  their  per- 
sons and  tlicii-  garments  were  scrupulously  clean ; their  long, 
silky  beards  were  carefully  combed  out,  the  particular  hairs 
lying  parallel  to  each  other,  and  every  thing  about  them  gave 
evidence  of  a care  and  neatness  which  I have  never  seen  sur- 
passed. They  were  greatly  astonished  at  the  size  and  strength 
of  the  steamer,  and  when  one  of  the  field-pieces  was  fired  three 
times  as  a salute,  several  of  the  attendants  dropped  upon  the 
deck  from  the  shock  of  their  surprise. 

On  the  second  day  after  our  arrival,  when  the  Commodore 
had  come  to  a good  understanding  with  the  native  authorities, 
ne  gave  the  officers  of  the  squadron  permission  to  go  ashore. 
I jumped  into  the  first  boat  which  put  off  from  the  Susque- 


368 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


hanna,  and  which  happened  to  he  manned  by  a dozen  Chinese, 
from  a number  who  had  been  shipped  at  Shanghai,  as  deck 
hands.  The  wind  was  blowing  fresh,  the  sea  was  running 
briskly,  and  the  Chinamen,  who  had  probably  never  had  an  oar 
in  their  hands  before,  did  little  but  catch  crabs  and  confuse 
each  other.  We  rapidly  drifted  away  from  the  vessel  and 
away  from  the  shore,  until,  finally,  one  of  the  midshipmen 
ordered  the  coolies  to  cease,  and  with  the  assistance  of  two  or 
three  others  stepped  the  mast  and  set  the  sheet,  to  run  in  on 
the  wind.  But  he  did  not  know  the  harbor,  and  in  the  twink- 
ling of  an  eye,  the  boat,  which  was  running  at  the  rate  of  seven 
or  eight  knots,  dashed  upon  a coral  reef.  It  was  too  late  to 
wear  off,  so  we  bounced  across  it,  the  boat  striking  upon  the 
tops  of  the  growing  coral  trees,  with  every  wave.  Having 
reached  deep  water  again,  we  found  ourselves  in  a lake,  or  pool, 
completely  encircled  by  the  reef.  The  only  means  of  escape 
was  to  jump  back  again,  which  we  finally  accomplished  with- 
out staving  in  the  boat,  and  after  a wearisome  pull,  reached 
the  steamer,  where  we  procured  a fresh  crew,  and  were  finally 
put  ashore  at  the  foot  of  Capstan  Bock. 

By  this  time  several  boats  had  landed,  and  groups  of 
officers  and  men  were  strolling  towards  the  town.  Behind  a 
hedge  of  the  prickly  pandanus^  there  was  a cluster  of  bamboo 
huts,  inhabited  mostly  by  fishermen — ^lank,  tawny,  half-naked 
figures,  who  looked  at  us  with  a sort  of  listless  curiosity. 
Their  families  were  all  concealed  within  the  houses.  As  we 
advanced  towards  the  town,  I noticed  that  two  or  three  indi- 
viduals, in  robes  of  salmon-colored  grass-cloth,  hovered  near 
each  party,  and,  without  seeming  to  watch  closely,  took  note  of 
every  movement  that  was  made.  We  soon  entered  the  main 


THE  TOWN  OF  NAPA. 


369 


street,  which  was  broad  and  well  paved,  and  as  neat  as  it  could 
well  be.  It  was  enclosed  bj  massive  walls  of  coral  and  po- 
rous limestone,  about  ten  feet  high,  over  which  hung  a variety 
of  flowering  shrubs  and  the  branches  of  glossy  tropical  trees, 
growing  in  the  gardens  behind  them.  The  dwellings  were 
within  these  enclosures,  and  if  we  saw,  by  chance,  a gate  un- 
locked, and  ventured  to  enter,  we  invariably  found  the  place 
vacant  and  deserted.  The  salmon-colored  gentlemen  did  their 
duty  well.  We  succeeded  in  getting  a very  accurate  idea  of 
the  situation  of  the  town,  its  size,  the  character  of  its  architec- 
ture, and  the  outward  appliances  of  its  social  life;  Wt  the 
inhabitants,  except  a few  men  and  boys  who  lingered  here  and 
there  in  the  streets,  had  totally  disappeared. 

On  my  return  to  the  vessel,  I called  at  the  residence  of 
Dr.  Bettelheim,  which  was  a very  neat  cottage  furnished  him 
by  the  authorities  of  Loo-Choo,  on  a slope  behind  Capstan 
Rock.  His  family  consisted  of  his  wife,  a mild,  amiable  English 
woman,  and  two  children.  The  house  was  plain,  but  comforta- 
ble, and  the  view  from  the  neighboring  rock  enchanting,  yet  I 
could  not  but  doubt  whether  any  thing  can  atone  for  such  a 
complete  removal  from  the  world  of  civilized  men.  Even  the 
zeal  of  the  Missionary  must  flag,  when  it  is  exercised  in  vain. 
After  seven  years’  labor,  all  the  impression  which  Dr.  Bettel- 
heim appears  to  have  produced  upon  the  natives  is  expressed 
m their  request,  touching  from  its  very  earnestness : “ take  this 
man  away  from  among  us  I ” 

16* 


CHAPTEK  XXX. 


VISIT  TO  THE  CAPITAL  OF  LOO  CHOO. 

Visit  of  the  Regent — The  Island  of  Loo-Choo — An  Exploration  of  the  Interior-  • Setting 
Out— Entry  into  the  Capital — Reception — The  Old  Mandarin  in  for  a Journey — His 
Resignation — Programme  of  the  Exploring  Trip — Espionage  in  Loo-Choo— En- 
deavors to  Escape  it — ^Taking  Families  by  Surprise — The  Landscapes  of  Loo-Choo — 
The  Cung-quds — Watches  and  Conn  ter- Watches — Commodore  Perry's  Visit  to 
Shui— Disembarkation — ^The  Order  of  March — Curiosity  of  the  Natives — March  to 
the  Capital — Reception  at  the  Gale — A Deception  Prevented — The  Viceroy’s  Castle 
— The  Inner  Courts — The  Commodore’s  Reception — A Tableau — Salutations  and 
Ceremonies— Visit  to  the  Regent’s  House — A State  Banquet  in  Loo-Choo — Edibles 
and  Beverages — Extent  of  the  Dinner— Toasts — The  Interpreter,  Ichirazichi — De- 
parture-Riding a Loo-Choo  Pony — Return  to  the  Squadron. 

Two  days  after  our  arrival  at  Loo-Choo,  the  Regent  of  the 
Island  paid  a formal  visit  to  Commodore  Perry,  on  board  of 
the  Susquehanna;  and  Monday,  the  6th  of  June,  was  fixed 
apon  as  the  day  when  the  Commodore  should  return  his  visit 
at  Shui,  the  capital,  which  lies  some  three  or  four  miles  to  the 
north-east  of  Napa. 

The  kingdom,  or  vice-royalty  of  Loo-Choo,  which  is  tribu- 
tary to  the  Japanese  Prince  of  Satsuma,  though  frequently 
visited  by  exploring  vessels  within  the  past  fifty  years,  had 
been  comparatively  little  known  previous  to  our  arrival.  Hall, 
Broughton,  Beechey,  and  the  French  Admii-al  Cecile,  had  sur 


AN  EXPLORATION  OF  THE  INTERIOR. 


371 


vejed  portions  of  the  coast,  but  the  interior  of  the  island 
remained  a terra  incognita.  The  officers  of  H.  B.  M.  steamer 
Sphinx,  which  visited  Napa  in  February,  1852,  were  the  first 
who  were  received  in  the  royal  castle  of  Shui.  The  heir  to  the 
rice-royalty  is  a boy,  who  was  about  eleven  years  old  at  the  time 
of.our  visit,  and  the  Government  was  therefore  intrusted  to  the 
hands  of  a Regent,  until  he  should  have  attained  his  majority. 

As  soon  as  communication  with  the  shore  had  been  estab- 
lished, Commodore  Perry  appointed  four  officers  from  the 
Susquehanna  and  Mississippi,  to  make  an  exploring  tour 
through  the  island.  I had  the  good  fortune  to  be  one  of  the 
party.  We  set  out  on  Monday  morning.  May  30th,  with  a 
week’s  leave  of  absence,  and  after  having  explored  rather  more 
than  half  the  island,  returned  on  the  afternoon  of  June  4th. 
We  were  allowed  to  take  with  us  four  seamen,  and  four  Chinese 
coolies  to  carry  our  tents  and  camping  utensils.  The  party  was 
well  armed,  and  furnished  with  ammunition  and  ship’s  rations 
for  the  necessary  time.  This  exploration  was  in  many  respects 
one  of  the  most  peculiar  and  interesting  episodes  of  travel  I 
ever  enjoyed.  In  these  days  of  discovery,  a piece  of  virgin 
earth  is  comparatively  rare.  There  are  few  spots  on  the  Earth’s 
surface,  so  accessible  as  Loo-Choo,  into  which  the  European 
race  has  not  yet  penetrated.  I regret  that  my  application  to 
our  Government  for  permission  to  copy  that  portion  of  my 
journal  describing  it,  should  have  been  denied,  and  that  hence 
I am  unable  to  give  at  present  a detailed  account  of  the  jour- 
uey. 

The  island  is  about  sixty  miles  in  length,  from  north  to 
south,  with  a varying  breadth  of  from  five  to  ten  miles.  The 
north-eastern  extremity,  beyond  Port  Melville,  which  we  were 


372 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN 


obliged  to  leave  unexplored,  for  want  of  time,  is  wild,  mom> 
tainous,  and  but  thinly  inhabited.  In  order  to  avoid  the  cun 
ning  and  deception  of  the  authorities,  no  previous  notice  of  our 
journey  was  given  to  them.  We  landed  and  marched  directly 
into  the  interior,  without  so  much  as  saying,  “ by  your  leave.” 
We  had  not  proceeded  more  than  half  a mile,  however,  before 
we  were  overtaken  by  a native  mandarin  of  the  fifth  rank, 
with  several  subordinate  officers,  who  had  been  sent  in  all  haste 
to  follow  us  and  watch  our  movements.  Their  faces  exhibited 
considerable  surprise  and  alarm,  as  they  beheld  eight  armed 
men,  with  the  cool  assurance  natural  to  Americans,  taking  the 
direct  road  to  Shui,  their  capital. 

We  carried  with  us,  as  a token  of  our  nationality,  a small 
boat’s  ensign,  and  on  arriving  at  the  gate  of  the  capital,  one  of 
the  sailors  fastened  it  to  a light  bamboo  staff,  which  he  stuck 
into  the  barrel  of  his  musket,  and  thus  we  bore  the  fiag  boldly 
through  the  centre  of  the  town  and  around  the  very  walls  of 
the  Viceroy’s  castle.  But  rapid  as  we  had  been  in  our  march 
from  Napa,  scouts  were  in  advance  of  us,  and  the  capital  ap- 
peared to  be  entirely  deserted.  Every  house  was  closed,  and 
scarcely  a soul  was  to  be  seen  in  the  streets.  The  few  whom 
we  met  glided  past  us  with  anxious  faces,  and  the  cloud  on  the 
brows  of  our  attendant  spies  grew  darker  as  we  advanced. 
We  kept  on,  nevertheless,  and  after  passing  through  the  town, 
took  a course  by  the  compass,  and  struck  across  the  hills 
towards  the  opposite  shore  of  the  island.  From  the  summit 
of  a ridge,  about  a mile  and  a half  to  the  eastward,  we  had  a 
glorious  view  of  green  valleys,  sloping  down  to  a broad  bay 
beyond  which  extended  the  blue  horizon-line  of  the  open  Pacific, 
As  it  drew  towards  evening,  the  old  map"^arin,  who  sus- 


THE  HAND  AKIN  IN  FOR  A JOURNEY. 


373 


pected  that  we  were  merely  making  a day’s  excursion  into  the 
country,  intimated  that  it  was  time  to  return  We  replied  by 
signs,  that  we  were  going  much  further,  and  would  not  return  for 
several  days.  This  was  more  than  he  had  bargained  for : he  had 
been  appointed  to  watch  us  and  dare  not  leave  us — and  now,  will- 
ing or  not,  he  must  make  the  tour  of  the  whole  island.  His  look 
of  blank  perplexity  wa^  at  first  very  amusing,  but  seeing  that 
there  was  no  help  for  his  case,  he  submitted  to  it  with  true  East- 
ern passiveness,  and  laughed  heartily  with  us  at  the  prospect  be- 
fore him.  I must  confess  that  the  thirst  for  exploration  made 
us  somewhat  unfeeling.  In  our  desire  to  see  as  much  of  the 
island  as  possible  within  the  time  allotted  to  us,  we  led  the  old 
mandarin  such  a dance  as  he  certainly  never  performed  before. 
Although  he  made  use  of  his  authority  over  the  natives,  and 
frequently  obliged  them  to  carry  him  in  the  hago^  or  sedan- 
chair  of  Japan,  he  would  come  into  the  encampment  every 
evening,  slapping  his  legs  to  show  how  fatigued  they  were,  and 
amusing  us,  in  a good-humored  way,  with  signs  of  the  great 
exhaustion  he  felt.  Notwithstanding  this,  he  visited  us  regu- 
larly every  morning  at  daybreak,  to  inquire  after  our  health, 
and  exhibited  so  much  patience  and  kindly  feeling  in  every 
way,  that  in  spite  of  the  annoyance  which  his  ofiice  caused  us, 
we  all  felt  a cordial  friendship  towards  him. 

We  encamped  for  the  night  on  the  shore  of  the  bay,  to 
which  the  name  of  Matthews’  Bay  was  given  by  Commodore 
Perry,  in  memory  of  Lieut.  John  Matthews,  of  the  Plymouthy 
who  first  surveyed  it,  and  who  was  afterwards  lost  at  the 
Bonin  Islands,  in  a typhoon.  Travelling  northward  the  next 
day,  over  the  ridges  of  the  beautiful  hills,  and  by  foot-paths 
through  forests,  we  Reached  at  sunset  a village  on  the  shore  of 


374 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


Barrow’s  Bay.  On  the  road  we  discovered  the  ruins  of  an 
ancient  castle,  crowning  the  summit  of  a high  peak.  It  was 
235  paces  in  length  by  70  in  breadth,  with  walls  from  six  to 
twelve  paces  in  thickness.  • We  afterwards  ascertained  that 
it  had  been  the  palace  of  one  of  the  former  kings  of  Loo-Choo, 
when  the  island  was  divided  into  three  sovereignties.  On  the 
third  day  we  proceeded  around  the  head  of  Barrow’s  Bay,  and 
across  the  northern  promontory,  to  a village  called  “ Ching,” 
or  “ Kanafa.”  Thence  we  struck  northward  into  the  heart  of 
the  island,  over  a range  of  mountains  covered  with  dense  tropi- 
cal forests,  intending  to  make  the  head  of  Port  Melville,  on 
the  opposite  side,  but  having  swerved  too  much  to  the  left, 
came  down  to  the  shore  at  a village  called  Na-Komma.  We 
spent  the  fourth  night  at  the  village  of  Un-na,  the  features  of 
whose  lovely  valley  I have  attempted  to  represent  in  the  fron- 
tispiece to  this  volume.  The  fifth  day  was  a weary  march  of 
twenty-eight  miles  in  a burning  sun,  over  mountains,  through 
tangled  thickets,  deep  rice-swamps,  and  in  the  glaring  sand  of 
the  sea-shore.  We  halted  for  the  night  at  a place  called  Chan- 
do-kosa,  and  the  next  day,  after  travelling  about  twenty-five 
miles  in  a heavy  rain,  reached  the  harbor  of  Napa,  having 
journeyed  more  than  a hundred  miles  through  a territory  pre- 
viously untrodden  by  white  men. 

The  perfection  to  which  the  system  of  espionage  is  carried 
in  Loo-Choo — and  consequently  in  Japan,  for  the  system  is 
no  doubt  the  same  in  both  countries — is  almost  incredible.  I 
have  no  doubt  that  before  the  second  day  of  our  trip  was  over, 
the  fact  was  known  throughout  the  whole  island,  and  watchers 
were  set  around  every  village,  to  look  out  for  our  approach. 
We  were  surrounded  with  a secret  power,  the  tokens  of  which 


ESPIONAGE  IN  LOO-CHOO. 


375 


were  invisible,  yet  which  we  could  not  move  a step  without 
feeling.  We  tried  every  means  to  elude  it,  but  in  vain.  The 
lovely  villages  with  which  the  island  is  dotted  were  deserted 
at  our  approach,  and  the  inhabitants  so  well  concealed  that  we 
rarely  succeeded  in  finding  them.  Only  the  laborers  who  were 
at  work  in  the  fields  were  allowed  to  remain,  and  even  they 
were  obliged  to  keep  at  a distance  from  our  path.  We  changed 
our  course  repeatedly,  in  the  endeavor  to  mislead  the  spies,  but 
they  seemed  to  comprehend  our  designs  by  a species  of  instinct, 
and  wherever  we  went  they  had  been  before  us.  We  scattered 
our  forces,  each  one  taking  a separate  course,  but  the  spies 
were  still  more  numerous  than  we.  We  could  perceive,  however, 
from  the  demeanor  of  the  natives,  that  they  were  well  disposed 
towards  us,  and  felt  a strong  curiosity  to  become  acquainted 
with  us — and  that  it  was  not  so  much  fear  of  ourselves,  as 
dread  of  the  power  of  their  rulers,  which  kept  them  aloof.  I 
had  a great  desire  to  learn  something  of  their  social  and  domes- 
tic life,  and  made  frequent  efforts  to  accomplish  my  object,  by 
plunging  into  the  woods  from  time  to  time,  outstripping  the 
spies,  and  then  darting  suddenly  into  some  neighboring  village. 
Although  I entered  many  houses,  in  two  or  three  instances 
only  did  I find  .the  inhabitants  within.  On  my  appearance, 
which  must  have  been  very  unexpected  and  startling,  the  women 
fell  upon  their  knees,  uplifting  both  hands  in  an  attitude  of 
supplication,  while  the  men  prostrated  themselves  and  struck 
their  foreheads  upon  the  earth.  I could  only  assure  them  by 
signs  of  my  friendly  disposition,  and  found  no  difficulty  in 
allaying  their  apprehensions,  whenever  the  spies  gave  me  time 
enough.  On  one  occasion,  where  I found  two  women  employed 
in  weaving  the  coarse  cotton  cloth  of  the  country,  after  the 


376 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


first  surprise  was  over,  they  quietly  resumed  their  occupy 
tion. 

In  other  respects,  the  journey  was  as  agreeable  as  it  was 
interesting.  The  island  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the 
world,  and  contains  a greater  variety  of  scenery  than  I have 
ever  seen  within  the  same  extent  of  territory.  The  valleys 
and  hill-sides  are  cultivated  with  a care  and  assiduity,  which 
puts  even  Chinese  agriculture  to  shame ; the  hills  are  crowned 
with  picturesque  groves  of  the  Loo-Choo  pine,  a tree  which  the 
artist  would  prize  much  more  highly  than  the  lumberman ; the 
villages  are  embowered  with  arching  lanes  of  bamboo,  the  tops 
of  which  interlace  and  form  avenues  of  perfect  shade ; while, 
from  the  deep  indentations  of  both  shores,  the  road  along  the 
spinal  ridge  of  the  island  commands  the  most  delightful  pros- 
pects of  bays  and  green  headlands,  on  either  side.  In  the 
sheltered  valleys,  the  clusters  of  sago-palm  and  banana  trees 
give  the  landscape  the  character  of  the  Tropics : on  the  hills, 
the  forests  of  pine  recall  the  scenery  of  the  Temperate  Zone. 
The  northern  part  of  the  island  abounds  with  marshy  thickets 
and  hills  overgrown  with  dense  woodland,  infested  with  wild 
boars,  but  the  southern  portion  is  one  vast  garden. 

The  villages  all  charmed  us  by  the  great  t^ste  and  neatness 
displayed  in  their  construction.  In  the  largest  of  them  there 
were  buildings  called  cung-qudsy  erected  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  the  agents  of  the  Government,  on  their  official  journeys 
through  the  island.  They  were  neat  wooden  dwellings,  with 
tiled  roofs,  the  floors  covered  with  soft  matting,  and  the  walls 
fitted  with  sliding  screens,  so  that  the  whole  house  could  be 
thrown  open  or  divided  into  rooms  at  pleasure.  They  were 
surrounded  with  gardens,  enclosed  by  trim  hedges  and  were 


COMMODORE  PERRY’s  VISIT  TO  SHUI. 


377 


always  placed  iu  situations  where  they  commanded  the  view  of 
a pleasant  landscape.  These  buildings  were  appropriated  to 
our  use,  and  when,  after  a hard  day’s  tramp,  we  had  hoisted 
our  flag  on  the  roof  and  stretched  ourselves  out  to  rest  on  the 
soft  matting,  we  would  not  have  exchanged  places  with  the 
old  Viceroy  himself.  As  a matter  of  precaution,  we  kept 
regular  watches  through  the  night,  but  the  natives  also  kept  a 
counter-watch  upon  us.  The  cung-qud  was  often  surrounded 
with  a ring  of  watch-flres,  and  as  the  inhabitants  seized  this 
opportunity  of  gratifying  their  curiosity,  we  frequently  saw 
hundreds  of  dusky  heads  peering  at  us  through  the  gloom, 
until  the  appearance  of  one  of  the  Government  spies  scattered 
them  as  effectually  as  if  a bomb-shell  had  exploded  among  them. 

On  our  return  to  the  squadron,  I was  gratified  to  find  my- 
self among  the  number  chosen  to  accompany  the  Commodore 
on  his  visit  to  the  Eegent,  at  Shui,  on  the  Monday  morning 
following.  • The  hour  of  departure  was  fixed  at  nine  o’clock, 
and  the  boats  pushed  off  from  the  different  vessels  at  the  same 
time.  The  Susquehanna’s  launches  and  cutters,  conveying 
the  field-piece,  seamen,  bandsmen  and  marines,  presented  a 
very  lively  and  animating  show,  as  they  rocked  over  the  swell- 
ing waves.  The  morning  was  cloudy,  with  a brisk  wind ; but 
though  a passing  shower  threw  its  veil  over  the  hills  while  on 
our  way  to  the  landing-place,  the  sky  soon  came  out  bright 
and  blue,  and  the  day  was  as  fresh  and  pleasant  as  could  have 
been  wished. 

The  point  of  disembarcation  was  the  little  village  of  Tu- 
mai',  lying  north  of  the  sandy  flats  (covered  at  high  tides), 
which  separate  the  promontory  of  Napa  from  the  hills  of  the 
island.  From  this  place  it  is  not  more  than  two  miles  to  Shui 


378 


INDIA,  CHINA  \ND  JAPAN. 


On  entering  the  creek  which  runs  up  to  Tumai  we  found  most 
of  the  boats  already  arrived, ' and  the  marines  drawn  up  in 
line  along  the  road  under  a grove  of  trees.  Grroups  of  officers, 
in  undress  uniform,  were  gathered  in  the  shade;  the  boats’ 
crews,  in  high  spirits,  were  watching  the  preparations,  and  some 
hundreds  of  natives,  among  whom  were  many  of  the  more 
respectable  class,  looked  on  with  evident  interest.  The  Com- 
modore’s barge  having  arrived,  he,  with  Commander  Adams, 
Captain  of  the  fleet,  Lieut.  Contee,  Flag  Lieutenant,  and  Com- 
manders Buchanan,  Lee  and  Walker,  passed  in  review  the  files 
of  marines  and  artillerymen. 

The  procession  then  formed  in  regular  order.  First  went 
the  two  field-pieces,  each  with  the  American  ensign  displayed, 
under  the  command  of  Lieut.  Bent,  of  the  Mississippi;  the 
interpreters,  Mr.  Wells  Williams  and  Br.  Bettelheim,  walked 
in  advance,  followed  by  Mr.  Bennet,  Master  of  the  Susquehan- 
na, who  commanded  the  first  field-piece.  After  the  artillery 
followed  the  Susquehanna’s  band,  and  a company  of  marines, 
under  Major  Zeilin.  The  Commodore  came  next,  in  a sedan- 
chair,  which  our  carpenter  had  made  for  the  occasion.  It  was 
carried  by  four  Chinese  coolies,-with  a relay  of  four  more. 
A marine  walked  on  each  side  as  body-guard,  with  two  of  the 
Commodore’s  personal  attendants.  Behind  the  chair  were  the 
Captain  of  the  Fleet,  the  Flag  Lieutenant,  and  the  Commo- 
dore’s Secretary.  Six  coolies  followed,  bearing  the  presents 
intended  for  the  Prince  and  Queen  Dowager,  guarded  by  a file 
of  marines.  Among  them  I noticed  arms  of  different  kinds, 
and  specimens  of  American  manufactured  goods.  The  officers 
accompanying  the  Commodore  followed  in  a body,  headed  by 
Commanders  Buchanan,  Lee  and  Walker.  Their  servants,  the 


THE  MARCH  TO  BHUI. 


379 


Mississippi’s  band,  and  a second  company  of  marines,  under 
Capt.  Slack,  of  the  Mississippi,  closed  the  procession.  The 
entire  number  of  persons  composing  it,  was  about  215,  of  whom 
32  were  officers,  122  seamen  and  marines,  and  30  musicians. 

It  was  one  of  the  most  picturesque  processions  of  its  size 
that  I have  ever  seen.  The  beauty  of  the  day,  the  brilliant 
green  of  the  wooded  hills  through  which  our  road  lay,  and  the 
cheerful  strains  of  the  bands,  gave  the  occasion  a most  inspir- 
ing character.  Numbers  of  the  natives  gathered  on  both  sides 
of  the  road  to  see  us  pass,  and  a large  crowd  followed  in  our 
rear.  There  did  not  appear  to  be  the  least  alarm  on  their  part, 
but  a pleased  excitement,  for  the  procession,  notwithstanding 
its  martial  character,  had  a festive  and  friendly  air.  In  the 
narrow  lanes  branching  into  the  road,  the  foremost  ranks  of  the 
crowd  knelt,  the  next  stooped,  and  those  in  the  rear  stood  up- 
right, in  order  to  allow  as  many  as  possible  to  see  the  display. 
Very  soon,  however,  we  emerged  from  the  village,  passed  a 
large  temple  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  behind  it,  and  came  out 
upon  the  open,  undulating  country  south  of  Shui.  The  rice- 
fields  rolled  in  heavy  waves  before  the  wind,  and  the  dark  green 
foliage  of  the  groves  in  which  Shui  is  embowered,  glittered  in 
the  sun.  The  natives  were  grouped  here  and  there,  in  the 
shade  of  clumps  of  the  Loo-Choo  pine,  and  numbers  of  them 
were  seen  running  along  the  ridges  between  the  rice-fields  in 
order  to  get  ahead  of  us  and  obtain  another  view. 

The  march  occupied  nearly  an  hour,  the  bands  playing 
alternately  during  the  whole  time.  The  road  was  familiar  to 
me,  as  we  had  passed  through  Shui  on  our  tour  of  exploration, 
but  the  other  officers  were  charmed  with  the  scenery,  especially 
as  we  climbed  the  hill  on  which  the  capital  is  built,  and  saw 


380 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN 


the  rich  cultivated  landscape  spreading  away  southward  and 
westward.  The'Loo*Choo  official,  appointed  to  meet  us  at  the 
landing-place,  and  accompany  us  to  Shui,  proved  to  be  Chang- 
yaen,  the  same  old  Pe-ching,  or  mandarin  of  the  fifth  class, 
who  had  been  our  guide  and  companion  during  the  expedition. 
At  the  gate  of  Shui,  we  were  met  by  a crowd  of  native  digni- 
taries, with  their  attendants,  all  in  brilliantly  clean  robes  of 
grass-cloth,  and  red  and  yellow  hatchee-matchees,  as  the  pecu- 
liar cap  worn  in  Loo-Choo  is  called,  upon  their  heads.  The 
old  Regent,  and  his  three  venerable  coadjutors,  the  Treasurers 
of  the  Kingdom,  here  made  their  appearance,  and  after  salut- 
ing the  Commodore,  turned  about  and  accompanied  the  pro- 
cession, which  passed  in  through  the  central  arch,  without  halt, 
and  marched  up  the  great  street  of  the  city.  There  was  a 
large  train  of  native  servants,  in  attendance  upon  the  Regent 
and  Chiefs,  bearing  umbrellas,  “chow-chow”  or  refreshment 
boxes,  cases  for  caps,  and  other  articles.  The  inscription  over 
the  gate  is  “ The  Central  Hill,”  signifying,  according  to  Mr. 
Williams,  “ the  place  of  authority.”  The  lower  orders  of  the 
natives  are  not  permitted  to  pass  through  the  central  arch. 

The  main  street  is  lined  with  high  walls,  with  but  few 
alleys  branching  out  of  it.  It  was  kept  clear  of  spectators  by 
the  native  officers  who  preceded  us,  except  in  a street  on  the 
left,  leading  to  the  house  of  the  Regent,  which  was  filled  with 
a concourse  of  persons.  On  reaching  this  point,  the  Regent, 
who  was  in  advance,  requested,  through  his  interpreter,  that 
the  procession  should  proceed  at  once  to  his  house.  As  this 
was  evidently  a scheme  to  prevent  our  entering  the  castle,  a 
determination  on  the  Commodore’s  part  which  seemed  to  give 
them  much  anxiety,  Mr.  Williams  paid  no  attention  to  the 


THE  viceroy’s  castle. 


381 


request,  but  marched  on  toward  the  castle  gate.  The  recep- 
tion of  the  officers  of  the  Sphinx  within  its  walls,  left  the  Com- 
modore no  alternative  but  to  exact  equal  respect. 

The  Regent  did  not  seem  to  have  anticipated  that  we 
should  carry  the  point,  for  the  gate  of  the  castle  was  closed. 
A messenger  was  sent  forward  at  full  speed  to  open  it,  and 
make  preparations  for  the  Commodore’s  reception.  On  reaching 
the  entrance,  the  artillery  and  marines  were  drawn  up  in  line, 
and  the  Commodore,  followed  by  his  staff  and  suite  of  officers, 
walked  past  into  the  castle,  while  the  troops  presented  arms 
and  lowered  the  ensigns,  and  the  band  struck  up  “ Hail 
Columbia.” 

Entering  the  first  gateway,  we  found  a second  wall  and 
portal  above  us,  still  further  strengthened  by  a natural  cliff, 
upon  which  part  of  it  was  built.  Along  the  foot  of  this  wall 
and  the  parapet  of  the  one  below,  grew  clusters  of  the  beauti- 
ful sago  palm,  many  of  which  were  in  fiower.  A small  stream 
of  water,  trickling  from  an  aperture  above,  fell  into  a subter- 
ranean drain.  On  either  side  of  it  were  planted  two  tall  stone 
tablets,  with  sculptured  inscriptions  upon  them.  Two  rudely 
sculptured  lions,  nearly  the  size  of  life,  were  placed  at  the  second 
entrance,  which  ushered  us  into  an  outer  court  of  the  palace, 
on  the  summit  of  the  height.  It  was  irregular  in  shape,  and 
surrounded  by  houses  which  appeared  to  be  designed  for  ser- 
vants and  others  attached  to  the  royal  household.  On  the 
eastern  side  was  another  gateway,  resembling  the  Chinese  por- 
tals of  honor.  It  consisted  of  two  arches,  and  the  Commodore 
and  his  suite  were  conducted  through  the  right-hand  one. 
This  brought  us  into  what  appeared  to  be  the  central  court  of 
the  palace.  It  was  not  more  than  eighty  feet  square,  surround* 


382 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


ed  with  one-story  wooden  edifices,  remarkable  neither  for  style 
nor  decoration.  The  court  was  paved  with  gravel  and  large 
tiles,  arranged  in  alternate  lozenges.  The  hall  of  reception 
was  on  the  northern  side,  the  other  buildings,  or  portions  of  the 
main  edifice,  being  closed  by  screens  against  all  view  from  with- 
out. Into  this  hall,  which,  like  all  Loo-Choo  houses,  had  an 
outer  verandah,  the  Commodore  was  conducted,  and  placed  at 
its  head  on  the  right  hand,  followed  by  the  other  officers,  accord- 
ing to  their  rank.  Chairs  of  dark  wood,  varnished,  and  made 
exactly  upon  the  principle  of  our  camp-stools,  were  brought,  and 
all  the  guests  were  soon  ranged  in  a single  row  along  the  right 
hand,  and  a double  one  across  the  bottom  of  the  room,  while 
the  Regent  and  Treasurers  sat  upon  the  left  side,  with  a double 
rank  of  attendants  behind  them.  The  Interpreters  occupied  a 
position  at  the  head  of  the  room,  between  the  Commodore  and 
Regent.  On  the  wall  above  them  was  a large  red  tablet,  with 
an  inscription  in  gilded  characters,  which  Mr.  Williams  trans- 
lated as  signifying : “ The  Elevated  Enclosure  of  Fragrant 
Festivities.” 

Neither  the  Queen  Dowager  nor  the  young  Prince  made 
their  appearance.  Among  the  reasons  urged  by  the  Regent 
why  the  Commodore  should  defer  his  visit  to  Shui,  was  the 
alleged  illness  of  the  Queen,  caused  by  the  visit  of  the  officers 
of  the  Sphinx.  The  royal  lady’s  nerves,  it  was  said  had  been 
so  agitated  by  that  event,  that  she  had  been  under  medical 
treatment  ever  since,  and  another  occurrence  of  the  kind  might 
prove  dangerous  to  her.  The  Commodore  politely  offered  to  send 
one  of  his  surgeons  to  prescribe  for  her,  but  this  was  declined. 
It  was  probably  not  considered  politic  to  produce  the  Prinoe, 
on  account  of  his  youth.  After  the  first  salutations  had  been 


CHINESE  VISITING  CARDS. 


383 


made,  tables  were  brought,  and  cups  of  very  weak  tea  present* 
ed  to  the  guests.  Smoking  boxes  were  distributed  around  the 
room,  and  dishes  of  leathery  twists  of  gingerbread  placed  upon 
the  tables.  But  it  was  evident  that  our  coming  had  not  been 
expected,  and  no  preparations  made  to  receive  us.  The  sides 
of  the  room  were  separated  from  the  other  parts  of  the  build- 
ing  by  paper  screens,  and  I fancied  that  there  were  listeners 
and  observers  (possibly  the  old  Queen  herself)  behind  them. 
The  whole  scene,  in  fact,  could  hardly  have  been  less  interest- 
ing to  the  native  spectators  than  to  ourselves.  The  strong 
contrast  between  the  American  uniforms  of  blue  and  gold,  and 
the  simple  gray  and  fawn-colored  robes  of  the  four  dignitaries 
who  confronted  them,  as  well  as  between  the  keen  eyes  and  ac- 
tive, energetic  faces  of  the  one  race,  and  the  venerable  gray 
beards  and  impassive  features  of  the  other,  gave  it  somewhat 
of  a dramatic  air,  which  rather  added  to,  than  diminished  the 
impression  it  made.  Those  four  personages  had  all  the  gravity 
and  dignity  which  might  have  belonged  to  Koman  Senators,  or 
rather,  to  members  of  the  Venetian  Council  of  Ten. 

After  the  usual  salutations  on  both  sides,  the  Commodore 
invited  the  Regent  and  his  three  associates  to  visit  him  on 
board  the  Susquehanna.  He  stated  that  he  intended  leaving 
Napa  in  a day  or  two,  but  that  he  should  return  again  after 
ten  days,  and  would  receive  them  at  any  time  they  appointed, 
either  before  or  after  his  absence.  To  this  they  replied  that 
they  would  leave  the  time  of  the  visit  to  be  fixed  by  the  Com- 
VQodore  himself,  whereupon  he  stated  that  he  preferred  it 
should  be  postponed  until  after  his  return.  They  acceded  to 
this  with  apparent  gratification.  Several  large  red  cards,  simi- 
lar to  those  used  on  state  occasions  in  China,  were  then  pro- 


384 


r>’DIA,  CHINA j AND  JAPAN. 


duced.  The  Regent  taking  them  in  his  hand,  all  four  rose 
came  forward  a few  steps,  and  bowed  profoundly.  The  Com* 
modore  and  all  the  others  rose  and  returned  the  salutation 
The  Commodore  then  stated,  that  if  there  were  any  articles 
on  board  any  of  the  vessels  which  the  Regent  might  need,  or 
desire  to  possess,  he  would  gladly  supply  him  with  them.  They 
again  rose,  advanced,  and  bowed  as  before.  The  dignitaries 
did  not  seem  quite  at  ease,  probably  on  account  of  our  having 
stolen  a march  upon  them,  in  entering  the  castle. 

The  interview  had  lasted  nearly  an  hour,  when  the  Regent 
rose  and  proposed  that  the  Commodore  should  pay  him  a visit 
at  his  ofl&cial  residence.  The  procession  was  thereupon  formed 
in  the  same  order,  and  returned  to  the  street,  where  we  had 
been  invited  to  enter,  on  our  arrival.  The  Regent’s  house  was 
in  this  street,  a short  distance  from  the  main  avenue.  The 
seamen,  marines  and  musicians  remained  behind,  in  charge  of 
a few  officers.  The  Commodore  and  his  suite  were  conducted 
into  the  house,  which  was  rather  larger  than  usual,  but  not 
distinguished  by  any  appearance  of  wealth,  or  insignia  of  office. 
It  consisted  of  a central  hall  with  wings,  open  toward  the 
court-yard,  from  which  it  was  only  separated  by  a narrow 
verandah,  approached  by  a flight  of  stone  steps.  The  building 
was  of  wood,  and  the  pillars  supporting  it,  with  the  beams  of 
the  ceilings,  were  painted  of  a dark-red  color.  The  floor  was 
covered  with  thick,  fine  matting,  each  mat  being  rigorously 
made  according  to  the  legal  dimensions. 

Four  tables  were  set  in  the  central  apartment,  and  three  in 
each  of  the  wings,  and  already  covered  with  a profuse  colla- 
tion. Immediately  on  entering  we  were  requested  to  seat  our- 
selves. The  Commodore,  with  Commanders  Buchanan  and 


A ROYAL  DINNER. 


385 


Adams,  took  the  highest  table  on  the  right  hand,  and  the  Regent 
and  his  associates  the  one  opposite  on  the  left.  At  each  corner 
of  the  tables  lay  a pair  of  chop-sticks.  In  the  centre  stood  an 
earthen  pot  filled  with  sackee,  surrounded  with  four  acorn- 
cups,  four  large  cups  of  coarse  china,  with  clumsy  spoons  of 
the  same  material,  and  four  tea-cups.  From  this  centre  radiated 
a collection  of  dishes  of  very  different  shapes  and  sizes,  and  still 
more  different  contents.  There  were  nineteen  on  the  table  at 
which  I sat,  but  I can  only  enumerate  a few  of  them : Eggs, 
dyed  crimson  and  sliced ; fish  made  into  rolls  and  boiled  in  fat ; 
cold  pieces  of  baked  fish ; slices  of  hog’s  liver ; sugar  candy ; 
cucumbers ; mustard ; salted  radish  tops ; curds  made  of  bean 
flour ; fragments  of  fried  lean  pork,  and  several  nondescripts, 
the  composition  of  which  it  was  impossible  to  tell. 

The  repast  began  with  cups  of  tea,  which  were  handed 
around,  followed  by  tiny  cups  of  sackee,  which  was  of  much 
superior  quality  to  any  we  had  yet  tasted  on  the  island.  It  was 
old  and  mellow,  with  a sharp,  sweet,  unctuous  flavor,  somewhat 
like  French  liqueur.  Small  bamboo  sticks,  sharpened  at  one 
end,  were  then  presented  to  us.  We  at  first  imagined  them  to 
be  tooth-picks,  but  soon  found  that  they  were  designed  to  stick 
in  the  balls  of  meat  and  dough,  which  floated  in  the  cups  of 
soup,  constituting  the  first  course.  Six  or  eight  cups  of  different 
kinds  of  soup  followed,  and  the  attendants,  meanwhile,  assidu- 
ously filled  up  the  little  cups  of  sackee.  We  had  a handsome, 
bright-eyed  youth  as  our  Ganymede,  and  the  smile  with  which 
he  pressed  us  to  eat  and  drink,  was  irresistible.  The  abundance 
of  soup  reminded  me  of  a Chinese  repast.  Of  the  twelve  courses 
—the  number  appropriated  to  a royal  dinner — which  were 
served  to  us,  eight  were  soups,  and  many  of  them  so  similar  in 
17 


386 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


composition  as  not  to  be  distinguished  by  a palate  unpractised 
in  Loo-Choo  delicacies.  The  other  four  were — ^gingerbread; 
a salad  made  of  bean-sprouts  and  tender  onion-tops ; a basket 
of  what  appeared  to  be  a dark-red  fruit,  about  the  size  of  a 
peach,  but  proved  to  be  balls,  composed  of  a thin  rind  of  ' 
unbaked  dough,  covering  a sugary  pulp ; and  a delicious  mix- 
ture of  beaten  eggs,  and  the  aromatic,  fibrous  roots  of  the  gin- 
ger-plant. The  gingerbread  had  a true  home  fiavor,  and  was 
not  to  be  despised.  The  officers  did  their  best  to  do  honor  to 
the  repast,  but  owing  to  the  number  of  dishes  could  do  little 
more  than  taste  the  courses  as  they  were  served  up.  Although 
we  left  at  the  end  of  the  twelfth  course,  we  were  told  that 
twelve  more  were  in  readiness  to  follow. 

After  the  eighth  or  ninth  course,  the  Commodore  rose  and 
proposed  as  a toast,  the  health  of  the  Queen  Mother  and  the 
young  Viceroy,  adding : “ Prosperity  to  the  Loo-Chooans,  and 
may  they  and  the  Americans  always  be  friends ! ” This  toast, 
having  been  translated  to  the  Regent,  appeared  to  gratify  him 
highly,  and  it  was  drunk  standing,  with  Loo-Choo  honors, 
which  consists  in  draining  the  tea-spoonful  of  sackee  at  one 
gulp,  and  turning  the  cup  bottom  upwards.  The  Commodore 
afterwards  proposed  the  health  of  the  Regent  and  his  associates, 
which  the  latter  returned  by  giving  that  of  the  Commodore  and 
the  officers  of  the  Squadron.  By  this  time  the  anxiety  and 
embarrassment  of  the  Chiefs  had  entirely  worn  off,  and  the 
entertainment  wound  up  with  the  best  possible  feeling.  How 
much  of  the  anxiety  was  assumed,  or  what  was  its  cause,  we 
had  no  means  of  ascertaining ; but  from  what  little  I have  seen 
of  the  Loo-Chooans,  I am  satisfied  that  there  is  a strong  basis  of 
cunning  in  their  character.  The  interpreter,  on  the  part  of  the 


RETURN  ON  BOARD. 


387 


Regent  was  a very  intelligent  young  native,  name  Ichirazichi^ 
who  had  been  educated  at  Pekin,  where  he  remained  three 
years.  He  spoke  a little  English,  and  had  some  knowledge.^ 
both  of  the  geographical  position  of  the  United  States,  and 
their  history.  He  spoke  of  Washington  as  a very  great  Man- 
darin. He  had  a more  swarthy  complexion  than  is  usually 
found  among  the  educated  Loo-Chooans,  a keen  black  eye,  and 
a shrewd,  cunning  expression  of  countenance. 

The  Commodore  left  the  Regent’s  house  about  one  o’clock, 
when  the  procession  formed  in  the  same  order  as  before.  The 
subordinate  officials  accompanied  us  to  the  gate,  and  the  old 
Pe-ching  again  took  his  station  in  advance.  On  starting  down 
the  hill,  the  four  ponies,  which  had  gone  up  with  us  with- 
out finding  riders,  were  again  led  to  the  rear.  Several  of  us 
profited  by  this  neglect,  to  mount  for  a ride  down,  and  try  the 
temper  of  the  Loo-Choo  horses.  The  ponies  were  very  small 
animals,  of  a bay  color,  but  rather  active  and  spirited.  They 
were  accoutred  like  the  Chinese  horses,  with  saddles  of  Turkish 
fashion,  and  enormous  iron  stirrups,  curved  backwards,  so  as 
to  admit  not  only  the  foot  but  part  of  the  leg.  They  were 
led  by  grooms,  and  we  could  not  succeed  in  bringing  them 
into  line  behind  the  rear  company  of  marines,  on  account  of 
their  jealousy  of  each  other.  The  little  chargers  kicked  and 
plunged  several  times  with  great  vivacity. 

The  sun,  shining  full  in  the  face  of  the  hill,  made  our  de- 
scent a sultry  one,  but  as  we  came  upon  the  wooded  slopes  a 
sea-breeze  met  us,  and  groups  of  the  boats’  crews  who  had 
come  off  to  convey  us  back  to  the  vessels,  were  seen  under  the 
trees,  watching  our  approach.  Several  hundreds  of  the  na- 
tives followed  us,  ^nd  as  we  drew  near  the  shore,  they  were 


388 


INDIA,  CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


seen  scampering  over  the  rice-fields  in  every  direction,  to  get 
a final  view  of  our  array.  Fifteen  boats,  each  flying  the 
American  colors,  lay  in  the  mouth  of  the  creek.  The  Com- 
modore and  suite  immediately  embarked,  and  the  wind  being 
fair,  the  cutters  hoisted  sail,  and  dashed  away  over  the  bright 
blue  waves,  passing  the  slow  white  launches,  with  their  loads 
of  marines  and  artillerymen.  All  were  on  board  by  half-past 
two.  without  any  untoward  incident  having  occurred  to  mar 
the  successful  issue  of  the  trip. 


C H APTEE  XXXI. 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  BONIN  ISLANDS. 

Departure— The  Bonin,  or  Arzobispo  Isles — Death  of  a Chinese  Opium  Smoker— A 
Peruvian  Bark — Approach  to  the  Bonin  Islands — Pilots — Entering  Port  Lloyd — Go- 
ing Ashore — A Settler’s  Hut — Society  on  the  Island — Mode  of  Life — An  Old  Inhab- 
itant and  his  Mate— Productions  of  the  Island — ^A  Coaling  Station  for  Steamers — 
Buckland  Island — A Basaltic  Cavern— English  Claims  to  the  Islands.. 

On  the  9th  of  June,  Commodore  Perry  left  the  harbor  of  Napa 
in  the  Susquehanna,  for  a visit  to  the  Bonin  or  Arzobispo 
Isles,  which  lie  in  Lat.  27®  N.,  Long.  140®  30^  E.,  or  between 
eight  and  nine  hundred  miles  from  Loo-Choo.  We  took  the 
sloop-of-war  Saratoga  in  tow,  leaving  the  Mississippi  behind, 
as  we  did  not  expect  to  be  absent  more  than  two  weeks. 

The  Bonin  Islands  have  scarcely  been  heard  of  in  the  Uni- 
ted States,  except  through  an  occasional  whaling  vessel,  some 
of  which  are  in  the  habit  of  touching  there,  in  order  to  pro- 
cure fresh  provisions.  They  are  about  500  miles  in  a south- 
erly direction  from  the  Bay  of  Yedo,  and  are  called  by  the 
Japanese  Mo  or  Mou  nin  sima^  signifying  “ uninhabited 
islands,”  whence  the  English  term,  Bonin.  In  Kompfer’s  work 
on  Japan,  there  is  an  account  of  their  discovery  by  the  Japan- 
ese, two  and  a half  centuries  ago,  and  the  same,  with  a more 


390 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN 


minute  description  of  their  appearance  and  productions,  is  to 
be  found  in  Klaproth’s  translation  of  a Japanese  work  on  the 
three  tributary  Kingdoms  of  Corea,  Loo-Choo,  and  Jeso. 
They  were  also  discovered  by  a Spanish  Admiral,  and  named 
the  “ Islas  del  Arzobispo,”  long  prior  to  Capt.  Beechey’s  visit 
and  survey  in  1827.  To  the  latter  navigator,  however,  we 
are  indebted  for  the  first  accurate  account  of  their  location 
and  extent. 

We  were  favored  by  the  south-west  monsoon,  and  had  a 
delightful  run  of  five  days,  with  nothing  to  interrupt  the  uni- 
formity of  sea  life,  except  frequent  calls  to  “ general  quar- 
ters,” and  the  death  of  Mr.  Williams’  Chinese  Secretary 
The  latter  fell  a victim  to  the  practice  of  smoking  opium.  He 
attempted  to  give  it  up,  and  this,  with  a spell  of  sea-sickness 
on  board  the  Saratoga,  so  enfeebled  him  that  no  medicines 
produced  any  effect,  and  he  sank  into  a state  of  nervelessness 
and  emaciation  ’ shocking  to  witness.  His  body  was  reduced 
to  a skeleton,  and  all  his  nervous  energy  so  completely  de- 
stroyed, that  for  a week  before  his  death  every  fibre  in  his 
frame  was  in  a state  of  constant  agitation.  His  face  was  a 
ghastly  yellow,  the  cheeks  sunken  upon  the  bones,  and  tlie 
eyes  wild  and  glassy  with  a semi-madness  which  fell  upon  him. 
His  whole  aspect  reminded  me  of  one  of  those  frightful  heads 
in  wax,  in  the  museum  of  Florence,  representing  the  effects  of 
the  plague.  He  was  a complete  wreck,  both  in  mind  and 
body,  and  nothing  that  I ever  saw  of  the  results  of  intoxica- 
tion from  spirituous  liquors  has  impressed  me  with  half  the 
horror. 

On  the  mormng  of  the  12th  we  passed  a Peruvian  bark, 
with  a cargo  of  coolies^  bound  for  the  guano  islands.  She  was 


ENTERING  PORT  LLOTD. 


391 


steering  nearly  the  same  course  as  ourselves,  under  a cloud  of 
canvas,  with  studding-sails  and  royals  set,  but  we  did  not 
pass  within  hail.  The  sight  of  a leviathan  steamer — ^the  first 
that  ever  ploughed  those  seas — towing  a large  vessel  after  her, 
must  have  greatly  astonished  the  Peruvians. 

At  sunrise  on  the  14th,  we  saw  the  Bonin  Islands  before 
us,  with  the  Bailly  Islands  about  fifteen  miles  distant,  in  a 
south-easterly  direction,  and  Parry’s  Group  barely  visible  in 
the  north-east.  The  three  islands  of  the  Bonin  Group,  Peel, 
Buckland,  and  Stapleton,  lie  close  together,  within  an  extent, 
collectively,  of  ten  miles  from  north  to  south.  We  made 
for  the  harbor  of  Port  Lloyd,  on  the  western  side  of  Peel 
Island,  where  the  only  inhabitants — a small  community  of 
Kanakas,  with  some  runaway  English  and  American  sailors — 
have  taken  up  their  abode.  On  approaching  the  entrance  to 
the  harbor  a gun  was  fired  for  a pilot,  which,  it  appeared,  was 
the  first  intimation  the  residents  had  of  our  arrival.  In  a 
short  time  two  canoes  appeared,  and  we  were  boarded  by  two 
natives,  who  attracted  considerable  attention,  as  being  the  vag- 
abond inhabitants  of  that  remote  corner  of  the  world.  One  of 
them  appeared  to  be  a cross  between  Portuguese  and  Kanaka. 
He  wore  a tattered  straw  hat,  blue  cotton  jacket  and  panta- 
loons, and  was  bare-footed.  The  other  was  a youth  about 
twenty  years  old,  lithe  and  graceful  in  his  form,  and  with  a 
quick,  bright  eye  and  rather  intelligent  face.  He  was  the 
only  native  of  the  island,  and  the  son  of  a Portuguese  named 
John  Bravo. 

Their  sailing  directions  were  of  little  use,  but  the  entrance 
to  the  port  was  broad  and  deep,  and  we  moved  on  slowly  and 
securely  to  an  anchorage  in  twenty-one  fathoms,  abreast  a 


392 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


dense  grove  of  trees,  bordering  a beach  on  the  northern  shore 
Nearly  east  of  us  rose  the  high  twin  peaks,  named  “ The  Paps  ^ 
by  Capt.  Beechey ; a little  further  to  the  south,  beyond  a rockj> 
islet  named  “ Castle  Bock,”  was  a narrow  beach,  at  the  foot 
of  a ravine,  down  which  flowed  a stream,  the  usual  watering- 
place  of  the  whalers.  With  the  exception  of  three  or  four 
similar  beaches,  the  shores  were  bold  and  precipitous,  and  the 
mountains  behind,  rising  in  steep,  picturesque  outlines,  were 
covered  to  their  very  summits  with  the  richest  tropical  vegeta- 
tion. 

Towards  evening  I went  ashore  in  the  gig.  Near  the 
northern  beach  there  is  a bank  of  coral,  dropping  suddenly 
mto  a track  of  deep  water,  which  forms  what  is  called  “ Ten 
Fathom  Hole.”  This  extends  so  far  up  the  bay,  that  vessels 
of  the  largest  size  may  lie  within  a hundred  feet  of  the  shore, 
in  a position  completely  landlocked,  and  sheltered  from  every 
wind.  The  trees  which  lined  the  beach  were  entirely  new  to 
me.  They  had  heavy,  crooked  trunks  and  boughs,  and  large 
ovate  leaves  of  a bright-green  color.  The  settlers  called  them 
tamanas.  Two  immense  turtles,  which  had  been  caught  the 
night  before,  lay  sprawling  upon  their  backs  in  the  shade,  and 
a white  man,  who  described  himself  as  an  Englishman  named 
Webb,  with  two  Kanakas,  were  sitting  lazily  upon  an  inverted 
canoe,  made  of  the  hollowed  trunk  of  a tree.  The  shells  of 
other  turtles  were  lying  on  the  sand,  and  exhaled  not  the 
freshest  of  odors.  An  opening  through  the  trees  showed  us  a 
neat  cabin  behind,  surrounded  with  a low  paling. 

The  Englishman,  who  was  civil  and  respectful,  though  si- 
lent, '•arely  speaking  unless  in  answer  to  our  questions,  led  the 
way  and  opened  the  door.  The  interior  was  small,  but  exceed* 


SOCIETY  ON  PEEL  ISLAND. 


393 


ingly  neat  and  tasteful.  The  frame  of  the  hut,  and  the  ridge- 
poles and  rafters  were  all  of  equal  size,  and  painted  a light 
blue  color.  The  thatch  was  of  leaves  of  the  fan-palm,  and  im 
pervious  to  rain.  There  was  an  outer  room,  with  a table  and 
a few  chairs,  and  two  sleeping  apartments  in  the  rear,  which 
were  kept  carefully  closed  during  the  day,  on  account  of  the 
abundance  of  mosquitos.  The  walls  were  covered  with  Chinese 
matting,  and  a row  of  gaudily-colored  French  lithographs  of 
female  figures  hung  across  the  partition.  Within  the  paled 
enclosure  were  two  other  low,  rude  structures  of  palm  leaves, 
one  of  which  served  as  a kitchen,  while  the  other  was  appro- 
priated to  the  Kanakas,  a well,  and  three  fiourishing  papaya 
trees.  Behind  the  house  was  a narrow  and  beautiful  plain, 
covered  with  sweet  potatoes,  melons,  and  sugar  cane,  with  the 
palm  forests  of  the  mountains  in  the  background.  The  line  of 
trees  along  the  beach  was  narrow,  and  merely  left  to  protect 
the  garden-land  in  the  rear  from  the  violence  of  sudden  squalls, 
which  sometimes  prevail  in  the  summer. 

The  Englishman  stated  that  he  had  been  seven  years  on 
the  island.  There  was  a kind  of  hesitation  in  his  manner  of 
speaking,  which  I fancied  arose  from  an  absence  of  intercourse 
with  civilized  society,  as  he  seemed  to  be  a man  of  average  in- 
telligenca  There  was,  apparently,  little  association  among 
the  settlers.  So  far  as  I could  learn,  there  are  no  rules  of 
government  accepted  by  them ; each  lives  upon  his  own  soil, 
by  virtue  of  the  right  of  pre-emption,  and  interferes  as  little  as 
possible  in  the  affairs  of  his  neighbors.  The  oldest  inhabitant, 
who  probably  exercises  a sort  of  authority  in  cases  of  dispute, 
is  a native  of  Massachusetts,  named  Savory,  who  has  been  on 
the  island  since  1831,  and  is  considered  the  richest  of  the 
17* 


394 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


settlers.  His  money  lias  been  principally  made  by  selling 
sweet  potatoes  to  whaling  ships,  at  the  rate  of  two  dollars 
a barrel ; in  addition  to  which  he  has  a still,  and  manufactures 
rum  from  sugar-cane.  At  the  time  of  our  visit  he  had  two 
hogsheads  of  it,  which  was  said  to  be  of  excellent  quality.  The 
population  is  continually  floating,  with  the  exception  of  four  or 
five  persons  who  were  among  the  original  settlers  of  the  island. 
Sailors  from  the  whaling  vessels  frequently  desert,  and  remain 
a year  or  two,  after  which  they  embark  again.  The  whalers 
are  mostly  American,  and,  according  to  the  settlers,  generally 
conduct  themselves  peaceably.  There  was  a flagrant  exception, 
however,  in  the  case  of  one  vessel,  the  crew  of  which  robbed 
Savory  of  $2,000  and  carried  off  the  daughter  of  Bravo,  to- 
gether with  a Kanaka  woman.  The  persons  implicated  were 
afterwards  arrested  at  Honolulu  for  the  abduction,  but  by  that 
time  the  women  were  satisfied  with  their  captivity,  and  de- 
clared that  they  left  the  island  of  their  own  accord. 

Further  up  the  beach,  we  found  another  hut,  inhabited  by 
an  old  Englishman,  who  had  been  there  for  more  than  twenty 
years.  He  was  upwards  of  fifty  years  old,  of  small  stature, 
but  hale  and  active,  and  the  sun,  which  had  bleached  his  brown 
hair  into  a tow  color,  had  burned  his  face,  neck,  breast  and 
arms  of  a deep  red.  He  seemed  to  have  wholly  forgotten  the 
world  from  which  he  came,  and  declared  his  intention  never  to 
leave  the  island,  but  to  die,  as  he  had  lived,  in  that  Pacific 
solitude.  He  had  a Kanaka  woman,  named  Bet,  a frightfully 
fat  and  ugly  creature,  but  very  good  humored.  On  our  asking 
for  water-melons,  he  sent  her  with  a bag  into  the  field,  and 
when  she  had  returned  with  three  or  four  of  the  ripest,  the 
good  woman  sat  down  to  take  breath,  and  never  ceased  chuck 


A COALING  STATION  FOR  STEAMERS. 


305 


ling  with  delight  at  the  rapacity  with  which  we  sliced  and  ate 
them.  We  saw  a mimher  of  banana  trees,  but  it  was  too  soon 
in  the  season  for  the  fruit  to  be  ripe.  The  sweet  potatoes 
were  a round,  mealy  variety,  and  superior  in  every  way  to  the 
Chinese.  The  old  man  had  a rough  apparatus  for  crushing 
sugar-cane,  and  a boiler  in  which  he  made  molasses  from  the 
juice  There  were  a number  of  fowls  and  ducks  in  the  vicinity 
of  all  the  cabins,  but  so  wild,  the  people  informed  me,  that  it 
was  impossible  to  take  them  alive.  In  fact,  the  settlers  seemed 
to  lack  nothing  which  the  simple  wants  of  nature  required,  and 
probably  preferred  the  easy,  quiet  life  of  the  island,  and  its 
genial  climate,  to  the  society  of  their  homes  and  the  ruder  toils 
which  would  await  them  there.  There  have  been  moments 
when  I have  coveted  such  a lot ; but  now,  nothing  could  have 
been  more  terrible  than  the  prospect  of  being  left  among  them. 
While  I inhabit  the  world,  let  me  be  borne  on  its  most  crowded 
stream,  and  feel  the  pulses  of  its  deepest  and  most  earnest 
life! 

Commodore  Perry  saw  at  once  the  advantages  of  Port 
Lloyd  as  a station  for  steamers,  whenever  a line  shall  be  estab- 
lished between  China  and  California.  It  is  not  only  the  most 
eligible,  but  perhaps  the  only  spot  in  the  Pacific,  west  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  which  promises  to  be  of  real  advantage  for 
such  a purpose.  It  is  about  3,300  miles  from  the  latter  place, 
and  1,100  from  Shanghai,  and  almost  on  the  direct  line  between 
the  two  points.  If  the  Sandwich  Islands  are  to  be  included  in 
the  proposed  route  (as  is  most  probable).  Peel  Island  is  even 
preferable  to  a port  in  Japan,  which,  on  the  other  hand,  would 
be  most  convenicr  t for  a direct  northern  line  from  Oregon.  The 
Commodore,  on  Oie  day  after  our  arrival,  obtained  from  Mr 


3^6 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


Savor;y  the  title  to  a tract  of  land,  on  the  northern  side  of  the 
bay,  near  its  head.  It  has  a front  of  1,000  yards  on  the  water, 
and  extends  across  the  island  to  a small  bight  on  the  northern 
side,  which  he  named  Pleasant  Bay.  The  location  is  admirably 
adapted  for  a coaling  station  for  steamers,  since  a pier  fifty  feet 
long  would  strike  water  deep  enough  to  float  the  largest  vessel 
The  soil  of  Peel  Island  is  the  richest  vegetable  mould,  and 
might  be  made  to  produce  abundant  supplies,  while  its  moun- 
tain streams  furnish  a never-failing  source  of  excellent  water. 

The  Commodore  also  paid  a visit  to  Buckland  Island, 
accompanied  by  Commanders  Buchanan,  Adams  and  Walker, 
and  a number  of  officers.  The  cattle  which  we  had  brought 
from  Shanghai  were  put  ashore  on  the  eastern  side  of  Peel 
Island,  at  a point  where  there  was  good  water,  and,  as  Savory 
stated,  a tolerably  large  tract  of  table-land.  The  sheep  were 
left  on  Stapleton  Island,  where  there  were  already  about  six 
thousand  wild  goats. 

On  the  day  before  leaving  Port  Lloyd,  I went  in  a boat  to 
examine  a fine  marine  cave  in  a bold  island  rock,  at  the  southern 
entrance  of  the  Bay,  to  which  Beechey  gave  the  name  of 
“ Southern  Head.”  The  trap  rock,  which  here  takes  a basaltic 
form,  exhibits  several  large  apertures,  one  of  which  extends 
through  the  Head,  to  the  beach  on  the  opposite  side.  The 
entrance  is  about  fifteen  feet  wide  and  thirty  high,  with  from 
one  to  two  fathoms  of  water.  Soon,  however,  the  roof  expands 
to  a height  of  forty  or  fifefy  feet,  in  the  form  of  a Gothic  arch, 
with  a longitudinal  beam,  or  keystone,  inserted  in  the  centre. 
After  rowing  along  for  twenty-five  yards,  we  came  to  a beach 
of  smooth  pebbles,  upon  which  a light  shone  through  from  the 
other  side,  and  passing  a low  arch,  and  climbing  a mound  of 


RNGLISH  CLAIMS  TO  THE  ISLAND. 


397 


Dartli  and  stones,  we  stood  upon  the  opposite  shore.  In  a large 
rocky  headland,  lying  opposite  to  us,  there  was  a cave  a hun* 
dred  yardfe  long,  passing  entirely  through,  and  traversed  hy  the 
canoes  of  the  natives.  After  taking  a bath  in  the  clear,  shaded 
waters,  where  we  had  moored  our  boat,  we  pulled  out  again 
through  another  branch  of  the  cave,  with  a narrower  entrance. 
Not  far  from  this  there  was  still  another  cave,  wth  two  entrances, 
separated  by  a huge  pillar  of  rock.  The  water  was  so  clear  that 
we  distinctly  saw  bottom  at  four  fathoms.  The  bed  of  the 
cavern  was  varied  with  groves  of  blue  and  purple  corals,  and 
the  rocks  beneath  the  water  line  were  studded  with  patches  of 
the  purest  emerald  green,  caused,  apparently,  by  the  combina* 
tion  of  some  of  their  component  parts  with  the  salts  of  the 
sea.  Through  the  dark,  rugged  arch  of  the  entrance,  the 
bright  blue  surface  of  the  bay,  and  the  sides  of  the  palmy 
hills  beyond,  shone  with  indescribable  lustre,  like  a picture 
burnt  in  enamel. 

Capt.  Beechey  took  possession  of  the  Bonin  Islands  in  the 
name  of  Great  Britain,  though  with  what  justice  I cannot  see, 
since  he  could  not  claim  the  right  of  discovery.  There  was 
some  attempt  at  one  time,  I believe,  to  found  a colony,  but  it 
has  long  since  been  relinquished.  The  only  show  of  English 
sovereignty  at  the  time  of  our  visit  was  a ragged  flag,  left  in 
the  charge  of  a Kanaka,  who  hoisted  it  the  day  after  our  arri- 
val. Mellichamp,  who  was  sent  to  Port  Lloyd  by  the  English 
Consul  at  Honolulu,  had  left  nearly  two  years  previous,  for 
Guam,  where  he  was  then  remaining,  unable,  it  was  said,  to 
leave  the  place. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 


AN  BXPLORINGTRIP  THROUGH  PEEL  ISLAND. 

Exploring  Parties  Appointed— My  Part— Setting  Oat— Climbing  the  Hills— The  Soil 
and  Productions — Land-Crabs — Crossing  a Eidge — A Tropical  Ravine — Signs  of 
Habitation— A Marqnesan  and  his  Household— South-Sea  Pilots— The  Valley— The 
Forest  Again — Trees — Shooting  a Wild  Boar — The  Southern  Coast — A Precipice — 
Dangerous  Climbing— A Frightful  Ravine- Descending  the  Precipices- South-East 
Bay — The  Nom-Camp — Ascent  of  the  Ravine — The  Party  beginning  to  Pag— The 
Valley  Again— A Slippery  Ascent — A Man  Lost— Firing  Signals— Return  to  the 
Vessel. 

On  the  day  of  our  arrival  at  Port  Lloyd,  Commodore 
Perry  announced  his  determination  to  send  two  exploring  par- 
ties into  the  interior  of  the  island  on  the  following  day.  Dr. 
Fahs,  Assistant  Surgeon,  was  appointed  to  the  command  of 
one,  and  myself  of  the  other.  A number  of  volunteers  at  once 
offered  themselves,  and  we  made  our  selections  and  arranged 
our  plans  without  delay.  We  were  supplied  with  carbines, 
ammunition  and  haversacks,  with  a day’s  rations.  The  island 
is  not  more  than  six  miles  in  length,  in  a straight  line,  so  that 
it  was  thought  that  two  parties  might  readily  explore  the  whole 
of  it  in  the  course  of  a day.  Dr.  Fahs  and  I accordingly 
divided  it  between  us,  he  taking  the  northern  portion,  or  that 


CLIMBING  THE  HILLS. 


399 


lying  immediately  around  Port  Lloyd,  while  I decided  to  strike 
across  the  central  part  of  the  island  to  its  southern  extremity, 
touching  by  the  way,  if  possible,  on  Fitton  Bay,  a harbor  on 
the  eastern  coast. 

My  party  consisted  of  Mr.  Heine,  artist ; Mr.  Boardman, 
Midshipman ; Mr.  Lawrence,  Assistant  Engineer ; Mr.  Hamp- 
ton, Purser’s  Steward ; Dennis  Terry,  a seaman ; Smith,  a 
marine,  and  a Chinese  coolie.  We  left  the  ship’s  side  before 
sunrise,  and  were  put  ashore  at  the  watering-place  at  the  head 
of  the  hay.  I divided  the  rations  and  ammunition,  allotting  to 
each  man  his  share,  so  that  we  all  carried  light  loads.  There 
was  no  one  at  the  watering-place  except  a Kanaka,  whom  we 
could  not  obtain  for  a guide.  He  pointed  out,  however,  a 
small  foot-path,  which  he  said  went  over  the  hills  to  a Kanaka 
settlement,  about  three  miles  distant.  We  struck  into  it  at 
once,  plunging  into  a wilderness  of  dense  vegetation,  which 
furnished  a faint  type  of  our  experience  for  the  rest  of  the  day. 

The  path  was  steep  and  slippery ; the  plants  were  wet  with 
a heavy  dew,  and  the  wild  parasitic  vines  which  hung  from  tree 
to  tree,  continually  caught  us  in  their  toils.  The  trees  were 
principally  palm,  among  which  I noticed  the  true  sago  palm, 
from  which  the  sago  of  commerce  is  made.  The  soil  was  a rich, 
dark  red  loam,  composed  of  disintegrated  trap  rock  and  vege- 
table mould.  The  same  soil  prevails  all  over  the  island,  so  far 
as  my  observations  extended,  except  on  the  northern  shore  of 
Port  Lloyd,  where  it  is  mixed  with  a grayish  sand  and  pebbles. 
Trap  rock,  of  a coarse  texture,  appeared  frequently  on  the 
steeper  declivities  of  the  ridge,  and  I noticed  growing  in  the 
crevices  a variety  of  the  hibiscus^  with  a large  flower  of  a dull 
orange  color  The  ground  was  in  many  places  covered  with 


400 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


a shower  of  white  blossoms,  which  I afterwards  found  had 
dropped  from  a tree  about  thirty  feet  high,  with  a small 
glossy  leaf,  thick  foliage,  and  a stout  trunk  of  a whitish  color 

The  forest  became  more  dense  as  we  reached  the  summit 
of  the  ridge.  The  thick,  luxuriant  crowns  of  the  palms,  above 
our  heads,  kept  out  the  rays  of  the  sun,  and  the  trunks  and 
creepers  combined  made  such  an  impervious  shade  that  it  was 
impossible  to  see  more  than  fifteen  or  twenty  yards  in  any 
direction.  The  path  was  but  little  used,  and  rather  difficult 
to  be  traced.  As  we  came  into  the  beds  of  water-courses 
leading  down  the  opposite  side,  the  multitudes  of  large  brown 
land-crabs  that  scampered  out  of  our  path  was  truly  amazing. 
The  ground  was  alive  with  them  in  the  cool,  moist  corners  of 
the  ravines,  and  some  of  them  were  fully  six  inches  in  breadth 
The  top  of  the  ridge,  an  undulating  region,  furrowed  with  deep 
gulleys,  was  about  a mile  and  a half  in  breadth,  after  which 
we  came  upon  a descent  at  so  sharp  an  angle  that  we  were 
obliged  to  swing  ourselves  down  from  tree  to  tree,  to  prevent 
tumbling  into  the  bottom  of  the  ravine.  An  opening  through 
the  woods  showed  us  a wild  dell,  completely  shut  in  by  precipi- 
tous mountains,  every  foot  of  whose  sides,  except  the  walls  of 
naked  rock  on  either  hand,  was  covered  with  the  richest  foliage. 
A stream  of  good  water  lapsed  over  the  rocky  bottom,  fringed 
by  rank  thickets  of  palm  and  other  trees,  while  the  bristling 
'pandanus  thrust  its  serried,  spiky  leaves  over  the  tops  of  the 
cliffs,  and  the  long,  loose  tresses  of  flowering  creepers,  shaken 
from  some  overhanging  bough,  swung  in  the  air.  The  scenery 
was  tropical  in  every  feature,  and  as  wild  and  rugged  as  nature 
could  make  it. 

The  ravine  opened  to  the  southward  into  a narrow  valley 


A MARQUESAN  AND  HIS  HOUSEHOLD. 


401 


which  showed  signs  of  being  inhabited.  Crossing  the  stream, 
we  came  upon  a patch  of  the  taro  plant,  the  stalks  of  which 
were  the  highest  and  most  luxuriant  I ever  saw.  We  here  lost 
the  path,  and  struck  directly  through  the  taro.  It  was  fully 
six  feet  high,  and  so  drenched  with  the  night’s  dew  that  we 
were  speedily  wet  to  the  skin.  Finding  the  forest  beyond  im- 
practicable, on  account  of  its . steepness  and  density,  we  re- 
turned to  the  bed  of  the  stream.  The  little  valley  into  which 
it  ushered  us  was  covered  with  patches  of  sweet  potato,  taro, 
pumpkins,  tobacco,  sugar-cane,  and  the  sida^  or  Indian  goose 
berry,  growing  with  a prodigal  strength  and  luxuriance.  Two 
huts  thatched  with  palm-leaves,  stood  in  the  centre  of  the 
valley.  Finding  them  both  deserted,  though  exhibiting  evi 
dences  of  having  been  occupied  that  morning,  we  fired  oui 
guns,  the  report  of  which  was  answered  by  a hail.  Presently 
a South-Sea  Islander,  in  a coarse  cotton  shirt  and  pantaloons, 
and  with  one  half  of  his  face  tattooed  a light  blue,  made  his 
appearance.  He  said  he  was  a native  of  Nukaheva,  in  the 
Marquesas,  and  his  name  was  “ Judge.”  He  conducted  us 
around  the  corner  of  the  mountain,  where  the  valley  opened 
westward  to  the  sea.  The  stream  became  a creek  deep  enough 
for  canoes,  in  one  of  which  the  Judge  had  just  arrived,  bring- 
ing a large  turtle  with  him  He  was  already  half  through  with 
the  operation  pf  cutting  up  the  flesh,  while  four  dogs  looked 
on  wistfully,  waiting  to  pick  the  shell  when  he  should  have 
finished.  The  Judge  was  apparently  in  good  circumstances, 
having  in  addition  to  his  hut,  his  plantation,  his  turtles  and 
dogs,  a pen  of  black  hogs.  I asked  him  to  accompany  us  to 
the  southern  extremity  of  the  island,  which  he  said  was  aboul 
three  or  four  miles  distant.  There  was  no  path,  and  he  did 


402 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


not  seem  inclined  to  go,  but  he  sent  his  boy  after  a companion, 
who,  he  said,  could  pilot  us  over  the  hills.  The  latter  was  a 
tawny  native  of  Otaheite,  and  spoke  very  little  English.  He 
confessed  that  he  knew  the  way,  as  well  as  the  wild-boar  haunts 
in  the  woods,  but  refused  to  go  without  the  Judge.  As  it  was 
next  to  impossible  to  find  our  way  without  a guide,  I settled 
the  matter  by  taking  both. 

The  valley  was  bounded  on  the  south  by  high  mountains, 
which  appeared  to  us  impassable,  on  account  of  the  lines  of 
mural  rock,  rising  one  above  another  to  their  very  summits.  The 
main  branch,  however,  was  not  that  into  which  we  had  at  first 
descended,  but  ran  away  to  the  eastward,  whence  the  stream 
came  down  a long  ravine,  between  two  peaks.  The  natives 
informed  me  that  the  sea  was  about  half  a mile  distant,  from 
which  I should  judge  the  entire  length  of  the  valley  to  be  near 
a mile  and  a half,  with  an  average  breadth  of  a quarter  of  a 
mile.  Its  bed  is  the  richest  loam,  and  all  the  vegetables  planted 
by  the  settlers  were  unequalled  of  their  kind.  The  stream  ol 
water  is  sweet  and  pure,  and  the  supply  is  constant  in  all  sea 
sons.  I saw  several  lemons  in  the  Judge’s  hut,  which  had  been 
raised  in  the  valley.  The  tobacco  was  five  feet  in  height,  and 
had  the  same  pale  green,  velvety  leaves,  which  characterize  the 
famous  tobacco  of  Latakieh. 

We  proceeded  in  a south-eastern  direction  into  the  ravine, 
which  we  ascended,  following  the  water  course.  Large  rounded 
masses  of  trap  rock  lay  in  its  bed,  and  still  further  we  came 
upon  large  perpendicular  crags  of  greenstone,  from  ten  to  forty 
feet  in  height.  In  some  places  beds  of  a coarse  conglomerate, 
which  had  frequently  an  appearance  of  sandstone,  rested  upon 
the  trap.  The  forest  was  very  dense,  and  from  the  moist,  uno 


KILLING  A WILD  BOAR. 


403 


tuous  nature  of  the  soil,  our  progress  was  exceedingly  toil 
some.  The  further  we  ascended,  the  darker  and  deeper  be- 
came the  wood,  and  as  the  Otaheitan  informed  us  we  were  now 
in  the  neighborhood  of  wild  boars,  we  crept  forward  silently 
and  cautiously.  While  we  were  resting  on  the  top  of  a cliff, 
two  of  the  party,  who  were  in  the  rear,  started  a boar  and  shot 
at  him,  but  unsuccessfully.  After  leaving  the  water  course  we 
climbed  the  side  of  the  ravine  by  clinging  to  the  roots  of  trees 
and  the  tough  cordage  of  parasitic  vines.  The  party  became 
scattered,  owing  to  the  absence  of  any  path,  and  the  impossi- 
bility of  seeing  more  than  ten  yards  in  any  direction.  Among 
the  palms  I noticed  a variety  with  broad  fan-leaves,  and  leaf- 
stems  six  to  eight  feet  in  length,  the  jagged  edges  of  which 
wounded  our  hands.  There  was  also  a variety  of  the  pandanusy 
with  a single  straight  trunk,  from  near  the  base  of  which  pro- 
jected a number  of  shoots  or  props,  which  became  roots  after 
they  reached  the  soil.  There  were  frequently  twenty  or  thirty 
of  them,  forming  a pyramidal  basis  to  the  slender  column, 
which  rose  about  fifteen  feet,  crowned  with  its  leafy  capital. 

While  halting  on  the  top  of  the  ridge  for  the  rest  of  the 
party  to  come  up,  the  dogs  commenced  barking  in  a ravine  on 
the  other  side.  Two  of  the  officers  started  off"  at  once,  and  in 
a short  time  we  heard  shots  at  a distance.  We  made  for  the 
sound,  and  after  plunging  through  a frightful  thicket  of  the 
horny-leaved  pandanusy  in  the  midst  of  which  I found  a wild 
boar’s  lair,  reached  the  bed  of  a brook,  where  the  hunters  were 
gathered  about  a young  boar.  He  was  about  a year  old,  and 
of  a dark  brownish-gray  color,  with  a long  snout,  resembling 
the  Chinese  hog.  We  took  out  the  liver  and  kidneys,  and  sus- 
pended the  body  to  a tree,  to  be  left  until  our  return.  In 


404 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


another  half  hour  we  had  crossed  the  dividing  ridge  of  the 
island,  and  began  to  descend  the  southern  side.  Through  an 
opening  in  the  foliage  I caught  a glimpse  of  the  sea,  and  climbed 
a tree  to  obtain  a look-out,  I found  that  we  were  on  the  brow 
of  a .very  steep  ridge,  about  1,500  feet  in  height,  looking  down 
upon  a small  bay,  opening  to  the  south-east.  Beyond  its  south- 
ern promontory  the  sea  was  again  visible,  with  the  group  of 
Bailly’s  Islands  in  the  distance.  The  mountains  descended  in 
precipices  to  the  water,  so  that  access  was  impossible,  except 
near  the  head  of  the  bay,  where  two  abrupt  ravines,  or  rather 
chasms,  showed  a speck  of  sandy  beach  at  their  meeting. 

The  Otaheitan  professed  to  know  the  way,  and  set  out, 
creeping  slowly  down  the  steep,  we  following,  forcing  our  way 
on  our  hands  and  knees  through  almost  impervious  thickets, 
until  a sudden  light  broke  through  the  wilderness,  and  we 
found  ourselves  on  the  brink  of  a precipice,  the  height  of  which 
we  could  not  then  estimate,  though  I afterwards  saw  that  it 
must  be  near  two  hundred  feet.  From  its  base  the  mountain 
sloped  away  so  steeply  to  the  brink  of  other  precipices  below 
that  we  seemed  to  swing  in  the  air,  suspended  over  the  great 
depth  which  intervened  between  us  and  the  sea.  My  head 
reeled  for  a moment,  as  I found  myself  perched  on  such  a giddy 
height,  and  either  retreat  or  descent  seemed  impossible.  The 
guide,  it  was  evident,  had  taken  us  too  far  to  the  left,  and  it 
was  necessary  partly  to  retrace  our  steps,  in  order  to  regain  a 
position  which  would  enable  us  to  avoid  the  precipice.  We 
clung  cautiously  to  the  strong  grass  which  grew  on  the  brink, 
and  thus  crept  along  for  about  two  hundred  yards,  over  a place 
where  the  least  impetus  would  have  sent  us  headlong  hundreds 
of  feet  below.  On  this  part  of  the  mountain  I found  a shrub 


GOING  DOWN  THE  PRECIPICE. 


405 


with  a dark,  glossy  leaf,  which  diffused  a powerful  balsamic 
odor.  Finally,  attaining  a point  where  the  precipice  ceased, 
we  commenced  going  downward  at  the  angle  of  about  60*^. 
The  soil  was  so  slippery,  and  the  vines  and  horny  leaves  of  the 
palms  hung  so  low,  that  the  best  way  of  descending  was  to  lie 
(lat  on  one’s  back,  and  slide  down  until  brought  up  by  a thicket 
too  dense  to  get  through. 

With  an  infinite  deal  of  labor,  and  at  the  risk  of  our  necks, 
we  at  last  reached  the  ravine,  or  chasm,  and  hoped  that  the 
worst  of  our  toils  were  over.  But  the  worst  was  yet  to  come. 
I can  place  implicit  faith  in  Herman  Melville’s  account  of 
the  precipices  of  Typee,  after  our  own  experience,  which,  in 
fact,  bore  a striking  resemblance  to  his.  The  ravine  descended 
by  a succession  of  rocky  steps  from  ten  to  forty  and  fifty  feet 
in  perpendicular  height,  down  which  we  clambered  with  hands 
and  feet,  often  trusting  the  soundness  of  our  bones,  if  not  our 
very  lives,  to  the  frail  branch  of  a tree,  or  to  the  hold  of  a root 
dangling  from  the  brink.  As  from  the  top  of  a tower,  we 
looked  on  the  beach,  lying  at  our  very  feet,  and  seemingly  to  be 
reached  by  a single  leap,  though  still  far  below.  Down,  down 
we  went  into  the  black  depths  of  the  chasm,  in  constant  fear 
of  reaching  a wall  which  we  could  not  pass,  until  at  the  junc- 
tion of  another  ravine,  we  came  upon  the  hewn  stump  of  a 
tree,  a sign  that  others  before  us  had  penetrated  the  wilder- 
ness, and  heard  the  roar  of  the  surf  near  at  hand.  The  seaman, 
Terry,  who  had  accompanied  me  on  the  exploring  trip  through 
Loo-Choo,  and  myself,  were  considerably  in  advance  of  the 
rest  of  the  party.  Terry  was  a man  after  my  own  heart,  for 
such  an  expedition.  Nothing  could  daunt  him,  and  no  hard- 
ships could  tire  him  out.  We  sat  down  on  the  beach,  under  an 


406 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


overhanging  rock,  and  looked  back  on  the  steep  down  whicl. 
we  had  clomb.  When  I saw  it  from  below,  and  discerned  the 
last  of  the  party  standing  on  the  brink  of  one  of  the  crags, 
showing  us  what  our  own  position  had  been,  I could  scarcely 
believe  our  descent  possible. 

The  guides  called  the  place  “ South-East  Bay.”  They 
stated  that  it  was  frequently  visited  by  whalers,  for  wood  and 
water ; which  accounts  for  the  stump  of  the  tree,  and  the  pre- 
sence of  a patch  of  tomatoes,  which  we  found  growing  in  a wild 
state,  along  the  banks  of  the  stream.  The  fruit  was  about  the 
size  of  a cherry,  and  very  fresh  and  palatable.  When  all  had 
arrived,  we  built  a fire  under  the  eaves  of  the  rocks,  and  while 
the  dry  drift-wood  was  burning  to  embers,  took  a bath  in  the 
sea.  The  water  was  deliciously  cool,  and  the  long,  heavy  swells 
rolled  directly  in  from  the  Pacific  and  broke  over  our  heads. 
We  broiled  the  boar’s  liver  on  pieces  of  coral,  and  this,  with  a 
ship’s  ration  of  salt  pork  and  biscuit,  and  a few  handfuls  of 
raw  tomatoes,  made  us  a most  palatable  repast.  By  the  time 
we  had  sufficiently  rested,  and  Mr.  Heine  had  made  a sketch  of 
the  bay,  it  was  two  o’clock,  and  I therefore  broke  up  the  camp 
and  started  homeward. 

The  natives  said  that  there  was  no  other  way  of  returning 
except  the  road  by  which  we  came.  We  all  shrank  from  the 
idea  of  climbing  that  terrible  path,  but  there  was  no  help  for 
it.  Up  we  must  go,  and  up  we  went,  clinging  for  life  to  the  * 
roots  of  trees,  or  the  sharp  little  corners  of  the  rocks  with  one 
hand,  while  we  clutched  our  carbines  with  the  other.  There 
was  not  a breath  of  air : the  th  .rmometer  must  have  shown  at 
least  90^,  and  the  toil  was  so  severe  that  one  of  tho  party 
became  ill,  and  lagged  behind.  We  were  obliged  to  halt  every 


THE  PARTY  BEGINING  TO  FAG. 


407 


five  minutes,  for  two  others  also  began  to  show  signs  of  exhaus* 
tion,  and  were  more  than  once  on  the  point  of  giving  out.  But 
all  things  must  have  an  end,  and  at  length  we  reached  the  sum- 
mit ridge,  whence  the  descent  to  the  ravine  where  we  had  left 
the  wild  boar  was  comparatively  easy,  after  what  we  had  already 
gone  through.  The  Otaheitan  shouldered  the  boar,  and  we 
returned,  with  but  one  or  two  halts  to  rest  the  exhausted  mem- 
bers of  the  party,  to  the  native  huts  in  the  valley,  where  we 
arrived  a little  before  six  o’clock.  One  of  the  gentlemen  was 
by  this  time  so  much  spent  that  he  hired  the  Otaheitan  to  carry 
him  in  a canoe  round  to  the  Kanaka  settlement  at  the  southern 
end  of  Port  Lloyd,  the  rest  of  us  taking  a path  which  led 
thither  by  land. 

The  evening  was  cloudy  and  rain  began  to  fall,  which 
hastened  our  departure.  Ascending  the  same  ravine  by  which 
we  had  reached  the  valley,  as  far  as  the  taro  patch,  the  Judge 
turned  suddenly  to  the  left  and  began  climbing  the  slippery 
side  of  the  mountain  at  an  angle  of  about  50°.  He  declared 
that  this  was  the  usual  road,  but  my  eyes,  although  somewhat 
exercised  in  wood-craft,  could  not  detect  the  least  trace  of  a 
path.  Under  the  thick  clusters  of  sago  palms  was  a dense  un 
dergrowth  of  fern,  in  which  we  could  gain  no  foothold,  and 
were  continually  falling  flat  on  our  faces.  The  Judge  himself 
began  to  be  fagged  by  this  time,  and  frequently  proposed  that 
we  should  rest.  The  others  were  in  no  wise  averse  to  this,  but 
I felt  little  fatigue  from  the  labors  of  the  day,  and  was  so  anx- 
ious to  reach  the  Kanaka  settlement  before  dark  that  I hurried 
them  onward.  After  gaining  the  summit,  the  way  was  easier, 
and  we  met  with  occasional  faint  traces  of  a path  Passing 
over  an  undulating  tract  for  a mile  or  more,  we  came  upon  the 


408 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


western 'slope  of  the  island,  overlooking  Southern  Head,  and 
the  entrance  to  Port  Lloyd.  I now  saw  that  a deep,  picturesque 
bight  made  in  below  the  Head  to  the  mouth  of  the  valley  we 
had  left,  and  that  the  shortest  and  most  usual  route  of  the  na- 
tives between  the  two  settlements,  was  by  sea.  The  sides  of 
the  hills  we  traversed  were  covered  with  a deep,  coarse  grass, 
waist-high,  and  so  thick  that  we  fairly  waded  through  it.  It 
was  a fortunate  circumstance  for  us  that  there  are  no  venom- 
»us  reptiles  on  the  island. 

I was  in  advance,  the  others  being  scattered  along  the  side 
of  the  hill,  when  I happened  to  notice  that  one  of  the  party 
was  missing.  I sent  back  the  coolie,  and  then  the  Judge,  and 
finally  ordered  a halt,  while  I returned  to  look  for  him.  After 
calling  and  searching  for  some  time  without  effect,  he  was  at 
last  found  lying  in  the  bottom  of  a glen,  asleep,  as  he  stated. 
He  stumbled  along  with  us  for  a short  time,  when  he  tumbled 
into  the  grass,  declaring  that  he  was  utterly  exhausted,  and 
would  remain  there  all  night.  Finding  that  we  could  not  get 
him  to  go  forward,  we  picked  him  up  by  main  force,  and  carried 
him  to  the  summit  of  the  hill,  where  I left  a man  in  charge  of 
him  while  we  hastened  down,  in  order  to  gain  the  flag-staff 
above  the  Kanaka  settlement,  and  fire  a volley  to  bring  a boat 
off  for  us.  We  plunged  through  the  cane-fields,  stumbled  up  the 
hill,  and  found  ourselves  on  a high  cliff,  overlooking  the  bay. 
The  big  hull  of  the  Susquehanna  was  barely  visible  in  the 
darkness.  We  fired  half  a dozen  volleys,  when  we  heard  the 
report  of  musketry  from  the  base  of  the  Paps,  at  the  head  of 
the  bay.  It  was,  as  we  conjectured,  the  party  of  Dr.  Fahs, 
signalizing  like  ourselves  for  a boat.  At  length,  fearful  lest 
our  signal  should  not  have  been  heard,  I sent  the  marine  in  a 


RETURN  TO  THE  VESSER. 


409 


canoe  to  bring  a boat.  He  met  the  first  cutter  half  way,  but 
the  tide  being  out,  she  was  obliged  to  anchor  off  the  reef  in 
front  of  the  settlement,  and  send  the  canoe  to  take  us  in  small 
companies. 

We  waited  half  an  hour  for  our  missing  comrade,  and  finally 
reached  the  ship’s  side  about  10  o’clock  weary  and  famished. 
Though  I suffered  less,  I believe,  than  most  of  the  others  it  was 
certainly  the  hardest  day’s  work  of  my  life. 


18 


V 


CHAPTER  XXXIIL 

VOYAGE  TO  JAPAN  AND  RECEPTION  THEBE. 

Return  to  Loo-Choo — Mails— Departure  for  Japan— The  Island  of  Ohosima— The 
Japanese  Coast — ^The  Headland  of  Idzu— Precautionary  Measures — Cape  Sagami— 
The  Bay  of  Yedo — Approach  to  Uraga— A Hint— The  Squadron  Halts- Japanese 
Boats— A Talk  at  the  Gangway — The  Vice  Governor  of  Uraga— His  Reception— 
The  Boats  Repulsed — Japanese  Boatmen— Watch-fires — Yezaimon,  Governor  of 
Uraga— Consultations — An  Express  to  Yedo— The  Emperor  appoints  a Commissioner 
— Permission  to  Land — Skilful  Negotiations — Scenery  of  the  Bay — The  Fortifica- 
tions—The  Peak  of  Fusi-Yamma— Canvas  Defences— A Surveying  Party— Sounding 
along  Shore— Forts  and  Soldiers— Threatened  Collision — A Second  Survey— A Mi- 
rage— Warlike  Appearances — Lieut.  Bent’s  Encounter  with  Forty -five  Japanese 
Boats— Result  of  the  Survey. 

On  our  retam  to  Loo-Choo,  where  we  arrived  on  the  24th  of 
June,  we  found  the  Plymouth  in  the  harbor.  She  had  left 
Shanghai  in  comparative  quiet,  and  with  no  present  apprehen- 
sion of  an  attack.  She  was  most  welcome,  on  account  of  hav 
ing  brought  the  mails  for  the  squadron.  After  having  been 
seven  months  without  news  from  home,  the  delight  with  which 
I received  a large  package  of  letters  can  only  be  comprehended 
by  those  who  have  had  similar  experiences.  As  all  the  vessels 
composing  the  squadron  at  that  time  were  now  at  the  rendez- 
vous, immediate  preparations  were  made  for  our  departure  for 
Japan.  Owing  to  the  foresight  with  which  the  vessels  had 
been  supplied,  little  was  needed  except  a stock  of  fresh  provi- 


THE  JAPANESE  COAST. 


411 


sions,  which  the  Loo-Choo  authorities,  after  some  delay  and 
equivocation,  furnished  us  at  double  the  ordinary  price. 

The  squadron,  consisting  of  the  Susquehanna  (flag-ship), 
Mississippi,  Plymouth  and  Saratoga — the  two  sloops  of  war 
being  taken  in  tow  by  the  two  steamers — sailed  from  the  har- 
bor of  Napa-Kiang,  on  the  2d  of  July.  On  the  night  of  the 
3d  and  morning  of  the  4th,  we  passed  the  large  island  of  Oho- 
sima,  part  of  the  Kingdom  of  Loo-Choo.  This  island,  which 
has  been  known  to  the  Dutch,  through  the  J apanese  charts, 
and  was  seen  by  the  French  Admiral  Cecille  in  1846,  is  not 
found  on  English  charts.  The  U S.  ship  Preble,  in  1849, 
supposed  she  had  made  the  flrst  discovery  of  it,  and  gave  it  the 
name  of  “ Preble  Island.”  It  has  never  been  visited  by  a 
foreign  vessel.  It  is  thirty  or  forty  miles  long,  mountainous, 
and  thickly  inhabited.  After  passing  it  we  had  very  sultry 
weather,  until  we  reached  Japan — the  thermometer  standing 
at  84®  at  night,  and  88°  to  90°  at  noon,  in  the  coolest  place 
on  board. 

At  daybreak,  on  the  morning  of  July  8,  we  first  made  land, 
which  proved  to  be  Cape  Idzu,  a lofty  headland  on  the  coast  of 
Niphon,  not  far  south  of  the  entrance  of  the  great  Bay  of  Yedo. 
The  Brocken  and  Vulcan  Islands  were  in  sight  on  our  right. 
After  passing  Rock  Island,  we  stood  in  nearer  to  the  shore, 
which  loomed  up  grandly  through  the  hazy  atmosphere.  The 
promontory  of  Idzu  is  a group  of  mountains,  rising  to  the  height 
of  five  or  six  thousand  feet,  their  summits  scarred  with  slides, 
and  their  sides  mostly  covered  with  forests,  though  here  and 
there  we  could  discern  patches  of  cultivated  land.  There  were 
a number  of  fishing  junks  off  the  coast,  some  of  which  put  back 
again  as  we  approached.  The  wind  was  ahead,  we  had  all  sails 


412 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


furled  and  the  yards  squared,  and  the  sight  of  our  two  im- 
mense steamers — the  first  that  ever  entered  Japanese  waters — 
dashing  along  at  the  rate  of  nine  knots  an  hour,  must  have 
struck  the  natives  with  the  utmost  astonishment. 

Leaving  the  mountains  of  Idzu  behind  us,  we  stood  across 
the  mouth  of  the  Bay  of  Kowadzu  (as  the  southern  half  of  the 
bifurcate  Bay  of  Yedo  is  called),  toward  Cape  Sagami  at  the 
extremity  of  the  promontory  which  divides  the  two.  The  noon 
observation  gave  lat.  34°  57^  N.  and  soon  afterwards  Cape 
Sagami  came  in  sight.  We  lay  to  while  the  Captains  of  the 
Mississippi,  Plymouth  and  Saratoga  came  on  board,  to  receive 
instructions,  and  then  resumed  our  course.  The  decks  were 
cleared  for  action,  the  guns  shotted,  the  small  arms  put  in 
complete  order,  and  every  precaution  taken,  in  case  we  should 
meet  with  a hostile  reception.  Near  Cape  Sagami  we  descried 
a large  town,  and  as  we  came  within  two  miles  of  the  shore,  a 
number  of  junks,  amounting  to  twelve  or  fifteen,  put  off,  with 
the  evident  intention  of  visiting  us.  Each  one  bore  a large 
banner,  upon  which  characters  were  inscribed.  The  rapidity 
of  our  progress,  against  the  wind,  soon  left  them  behind,  no 
doubt  completely  nonplussed  as  to  the  invisible  power  which 
bore  us  away  from  them.  The  Bay  now  began  to  be  thickly 
studded  with  fishing  smacks,  with  here  and  there  a large 
junk. 

The  shores  of  Sagami  are  exceedingly  picturesque  and 
beautiful.  They  rise  in  abrupt  bluffs,  two  hundred  feet  in 
height,  gashed  with  narrow  dells  of  the  brightest  verdure, 
which  slope  steeply  down  to  the  water,  while  the  country  be- 
hind rises  in  undulating  hills,  displaying  a charming  alterna- 
tion of  groves  and  cultivated  fields.  In  the  distance  rose 


JAPANESE  BOATS. 


413 


mountain  ranges,  receding  behind  each  other  until  the  vapor 
hid  their  farthest  summits.  The  eastern  coast,  belonging 
to  the  province  of  Awa,  now  came  in  sight  ahead  of  us,  for 
we  were  entering  the  narrowest  part  of  the  Bay,  leading  to  the 
upper  Bay  of  Yedo.  The  distance  from  shore  to  shore  here 
varies  from  five  to  eight  miles,  but  afterwards  expands  to 
twelve  or  fifteen. 

We  kept  directly  up  the  Bay,  and  in  half  an  hour  after 
doubling  Cape  Sagami  saw  before  us  a bold  promontory  mak- 
ing out  from  the  western  coast,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Upper 
Bay.  Within  it  was  the  Bight  of  Uraga,  and  we  could  plainly 
see  the  town  of  the  same  name  at  the  head  of  it.  The  Ply- 
mouth and  Saratoga  were  cast  off,  and  we  advanced  slowly, 
sounding  as  we  went,  until  we  had  advanced  more  than  a mile 
beyond  the  point  reached  by  the  Columbus  and  the  Morrison. 
We  were  about  a mile  and  a half  from  the  promontory,  when 
two  discharges  of  cannon  were  heard  from  a battery  at  its  ex- 
tremity, and  immediately  afterwards  a light  ball  of  smoke  in 
the  air  showed  that  a shell  had  been  thrown  up.  An  order 
was  immediately  given  to  let  go  the  anchor,  but  as  the  lead  still 
showed  25  fathoms,  the  steamer’s  head  was  put  in  toward  the 
shore,  and  in  a few  minutes  the  anchor  was  dropped. 

Another  shell  was  fired  after  we  came  to  anchor,  and  four 
or  five  boats  filled  with  Japanese  approached  us.  The  rowers, 
who  were  all  tall,  athletic  men,  naked  save  a cloth  around  the 
loins,  shouted  lustily  as  they  sculled  with  all  their  strength 
toward  us.  The  boats  were  of  unpainted  wood,  very  sharp  in 
the  bows,  carrying  their  greatest  breadth  of  beam  well  aft,  and 
were  propelled  with  great  rapidity.  The  resemblance  of  their 
model  to  that  of  the  yacht  America,  struck  every  body  on 


414 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


board.  In  the  stern  of  each  was  a small  flag,  with  three  hori 
zontal  stripes,  the  central  one  black  and  the  other  white.  In 
each  were  several  persons,  who,  bj  their  dress  and  the  two 
swords  stuck  in  their  belts,  appeared  to  be  men  of  authority. 

The  first  boat  came  alongside,  and  one  of  the  two-sworded 
individuals  made  signs  for  the  gangway  to  be  let  down.  This 
was  refused,  but  Mr.  Wells  Williams,  the  Interpreter,  and  Mr. 
Portman,  the  Commodore’s  clerk  (who  was  a native  of  Holland), 
went  to  the  ship’s  side  to  state  that  nobody  would  be  received 
on  board,  except  the  first  in  rank  at  Uraga.  The  conversa- 
tion was  carried  on  principally  in  Dutch,  which  the  interpre- 
ter spoke  very  well.  He  asked  at  once  if  we  were  not  Ameri- 
cans, and  by  his  manner  of  asking  showed  that  our  coming  had 
been  anticipated.  He  was  told  that  the  Commander  of  the 
squadron  was  an  officer  of  very  high  rank  in  the  United  States, 
and  could  only  communicate  with  the  first  in  rank  on  shore. 
After  a long  parley,  the  Vice-Governor  of  Urdga,  who  was  in 
the  boat,  was  allowed  to  come  on  board  with  the  Interpreter 
and  confer  with  Lieut.  Contee,  the  Flag  Lieutenant.  The  Jap- 
anese official,  a fiery  little  fellow,  was  much  exasperated  al 
being  kept  in  waiting,  but  soon  moderated  his  tone.  He  was 
told  that  we  came  as  friends,  upon  a peaceable  mission ; that 
we  should  not  go  to  Nangasaki,  as  he  proposed,  and  that  it  was 
insulting  to  our  President  and  his  special  minister  to  propose 
it.  He  was  told,  moreover,  that  the  Japanese  must  not  commu- 
nicate with  any  other  vessel  than  the  flag-ship,  and  that  no  boats 
must  approach  us  during  the  night.  An  attempt  to  surround 
us  with  a cordon  of  boats,  as  in  the  case  of  the  Columbus  and 
Vincennes,  would  lead  to  very  serious  consequences.  They  had 
with  them  an  official  notice,  written  in  French,  Dutch  and  Eng- 


JAPANESE  BOATS  WARNED  OFF. 


415 


lish,  and  intended  as  a general  warning  to  all  foreign  vessels, 
directing  them  to  go  no  further,  to  remain  out  at  sea,  and  send 
word  ashore,  why  they  came  and  what  they  wanted.  This 
Lieut.  Contee  declined  to  see  or  ackowledge  in  any  way.  The 
same  notice  was  taken  to  the  Plymouth  by  another  boat,  which 
was  at  once  ordered  off." 

Commodore  Perry  had  evidently  made  up  his  mind  from  the 
first  not  to  submit  to  the  surveillance  of  boats.  The  dignified 
and  decided  stand  he  took  produced  an  immediate  impression 
upon  the  Japanese.  They  were  convinced  that  he  was  in  ear- 
nest, and  that  all  the  tricks  and  delays  with  which  they  are  in 
the  habit  of  wheedling  foreign  visitors  would  be  used  in  vain. 
Several  boats  having  followed  the  first  one,  and  begun  to  collect 
round  us,  the  Vice-Governor  was  told  that  if  they  did  not 
return  at  once,  they  would  be  fired  into.  One  of  them  went  to 
the  Mississippi;  and  after  being  repulsed  from  the  gangway, 
pulled  forward  to  the  bows,  where  some  of  the  crew  tried  to 
climb  on  board.  A company  of  boarders  was  immediately 
called  away,  and  the  bristling  array  of  pikes  and  cutlasses  over 
the  vessel’s  side  caused  the  Japanese  to  retreat  in  great  haste. 
Thenceforth,  all  the  Japanese  boats  gave  us  a wide  berth,  and 
during  the  whole  of  our  stay,  none  approached  us  except  those 
containing  the  officials  who  were  concerned  in  the  negotiations. 
I may  here  remark  that  our  presence  did  not  seem  to  disturb, 
in  the  least,  the  coasting  trade  which  finds  its  focus  in  Yedo. 
Without  counting  the  hundreds  of  small  boats  and  fishing 
smacks,  between  sixty  and  seventy  large  junks  daily  passed  up 
and  down  the  bay,  on  their  way  to  and  from  Yedo.  The  Japa- 
nese boatmen  were  tall,  handsomely  formed  men,  with  vigorous 
and  symmetrical  bodies,  and  a hardy,  manly  expression  of  coun- 


416 


INDIA  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


tenance.  As  the  air  grew  fresher  towards  evening,  they  put  on 
a sort  of  loose  gown,  with  wide,  hanging  sleeves.  As  the  crew 
of  each  boat  were  all  attired  alike,  the  dress  appeared  to  be  a 
uniform,  denoting  that  they  were  in  G-overnment  service.  The 
most  of  them  had  blue  gowns,  with  white  stripes  on  the  sleeves, 
meeting  on  the  shoulder,  so  as  to  form  a triangular  junction, 
and  a crest,  or  coat-of-arms,  upon  the  back.  Others  had  gowns 
of  red  and  white  stripes,  with  a black  lozenge  upon  the  back. 
Some  wore  upon  their  heads  a cap  made  of  bamboo  splints, 
resembling  a broad,  shallow  basin  inverted,  but  the  greater  part 
had  their  heads  bare,  the  top  and  crown  shaved,  and  the  hair 
from  the  back  and  sides  brought  up  and  fastened  in  a small 
knot,  through  which  a short  metal  pin  was  thrust.  The  officers 
wore  light  and  beautifully  lacquered  hats  to  protect  them  from 
the  sun,  with  a gilded  coat-of-arms  upon  the  front  part.  In 
most  of  the  boats  I noticed  a tall  spear,  with  a lacquered  sheath 
for  the  head,  resembling  a number  or  character,  and  apparently 
referring  to  the  rank  of  the  officer  on  board. 

After  dark,  watch-fires  began  to  blaze  along  the  shore,  both 
from  the  beach  and  from  the  summits  of  the  hills,  chiefly  on  the 
western  side  of  the  bay.  At  the  same  time  we  heard,  at  regular 
intervals,  the  sound  of  a deep-toned  bell.  It  had  a very  sweety 
rich  tone,  and  from  the  distinctness  with  which  its  long  rever- 
berations reached  us,  must  have  been  of  large  size.  A double 
night-watch  was  established  during  our  stay,  and  no  officers 
except  the  Purser  and  Surgeons  were  exempt  from  serving. 
But  the  nights  were  quiet  and  peaceful,  and  it  never  fell  to  my 
lot  to  report  a suspicious  appearance  of  any  kind. 

The  next  mornipg,  Yezaimon,  the  Governor  of  Uraga,  and 
the  highest  authority  on  shore,  came  off,  attended  by  two 


UNEXPECTED  CONCESSIONS. 


417 


'mterpreters,  who  gave  their  names  as  Tatsonoske  and  Tokosh- 
iuro.  He  was  received  by  Commanders  Buchanan  and  Adams, 
and  Lieut.  Contee.  He  was  a noble  of  the  second  rank ; his 
' robe  was  of  the  richest  silken  tissue,  embroidered  with  gold 
and  silver  in  a pattern  resembling  peacock  feathers.  The  object 
of  his  coming,  I believe,  was  to  declare  his  inability  to  act,  not 
having  the  requisite  authority  without  instructions  from  Yedo. 
At  any  rate,  it  was  understood  that  an  express  would  be  sent 
to  the  Capital  immediately,  and  the  Commodore  gave  him  until 
Tuesday  noon  to  have  the  answer  ready.  Sunday  passed  over 
without  any  visit,  but  on  Monday  there  was  an  informal  one. 

From  Tuesday  until  Wednesday  noon,  Yezaimon  came  off 
three  times,  remaining  from  two  to  three  hours  each  time. 
The  result  of  all  these  conferences  was,  that  the  Emperor  had 
specially  appointed  one  of  the  Chief  Counsellors  of  the  Empire 
to  proceed  to  Urdga,  and  receive  from  Commodore  Perry  the 
letter  of  the  President  of  the  United  States,  which  the  Com- 
modore was  allowed  to  land  and  deliver  on  shore.  This  prompt 
and  unlooked-for  concession  astonished  us  all,  and  I am  com 
vinced  it  was  owing  entirely  to  the  decided  stand  the  Commo- 
dore took  during  the  early  negotiations.  We  had  obtained  in 
four  days,  without  subjecting  ourselves  to  a single  observance 
of  Japanese  law,  what  the  Russian  embassy  under  Resanoff 
failed  to  accomplish  in  six  months,  after  a degrading  subser 
vience  to  ridiculous  demands.  From  what  I know  of  the  nego- 
tiations, I must  say  that  they  were  admirably  conducted. 
The  Japanese  officials  were  treated  in  such  a polite  and 
friendly  manner  as  to  win  their  good  will,  while  not  a single 
point  to  which  we  attached  an^  importance,  was  yielded 
There  was  a mixture  of  firmness,  dignity  and  fearlessness  on 
18* 


118 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


* 

pur  side,  against  which  their  artful  and  dissimulating  polic}' 
was  powerless.  To  this,  and  to  our  material  strengtn,  I at- 
tribute the  fact  of  our  reception  having  been  so  different  from 
that  of  other  embassies,  as  almost  to  make  us  doubt  the  truth 
of  the  accounts  we  had  read. 

From  our  anchorage  off  Uraga,  we  enjoyed  a charming 
panorama  of  the  bay.  It  far  surpassed  my  preconceived  ideas 
of  Japanese  scenery.  The  western  shore  is  bold  and  steep, 
running  here  and  there  into  lofty  bluffs  of  light-gray  rock,  but 
the  greater  part  of  it  is  covered  with  turf,  copsewood  and  scat- 
tered groves  of  trees,  all  of  the  brightest  and  freshest  green. 
From  Uraga  to  another  and  shallower  bight,  which  makes  in 
nearly  two  miles  below,  the  shore  is  less  abrupt,  and  shows 
more  signs  of  cultivation.  The  hills  behind,  though  not  above 
500  feet  in  height,  are  beautifully  undulating  in  their  outlines, 
and  dotted  with  groves  of  pine  and  other  trees.  From  Urdga 
to  the  end  of  the  promontory — a distance  of  a mile  and  a 
quarter — there  is  an  almost  unbroken  line  of  villages.  The 
houses  are  of  wood,  with  sharp  roofs,  some  pointed  in  the 
Chinese  style,  some  square  and  pyramidal.  A few  were  painted 
white,  but  the  greater  number  were  unpainted  and  weather- 
beaten. At  least  a hundred  small  craft,  with  a number  of 
junks,  lay  in  the  harbor  of  Urdga,  and  thence  to  the  headland, 
there  were  two  hundred  boats,  lying  close  in-shore. 

T examined  the  fortifications  frequently  and  carefully, 
through  a glass,  and  found  that  their  strength  had  been  greatly 
exaggerated.  Two  of  them  appeared  to  have  been  recently 
made,  and  on  a bluff,  half  enclosing- the  little  harbor  of  Uraga 
on  the  east,  there  was  another,  still  in  the  course  of  construc- 
tion, Between  this  and  the  headland  there  were  three  bat- 


CANVAS  FORTIFICATIONS. 


4iy 

teries,  and  at  the  extremity  one,  making  five  in  all.  The  em* 
brasures  were  so  large,  that  from  our  position  a good  marks- 
man might  in  a short  time  have  dislodged  every  one  of  their 
guns.  The  chief  post  was  the  central  battery,  near  which  was 
a village,  and  several  buildings  of  large  size,  apparently  arsenals 
or  barracks. 

Every  morning  and  evening,  when  the  air  was  clear,  we 
had  a distinct  view  of  the  famous  volcanic  peak  of  Fusi-Yam- 
ma,  rising  in  the  western  heaven,  high  above  the  hills,  and 
sixty  miles  away.  In  the  evenings  its  solitary  cone,  of  a J)ale 
violet  hue,  was  defined  with  great  distinctness  against  the  rosy 
flush  of  sunset,  but  in  the  morning,  when  the  light  fell  full 
upon  it,  we  could  see  the  scars  of  old  eruptions,  and  the  cold 
ravines  of  snow  on  its  northern  side.  It  is  the  highest  moun- 
tain in  Japan,  and  estimated  to  be  twelve  or  thirteen  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea-level. 

On  the  morning  after  our  arrival,  the  Japanese  put  up  a 
false  battery  of  black  canvas,  about  a hundred  yards  in  length, 
on  the  shore  south  of  Urdga.  There  was  no  appearance  of 
guns,  but  with  a glass  I saw  two  or  three  companies  of  soldiers 
in  scarlet  uniform,  riding  through  the  groves  in  the  rear.  In 
most  of  tne  batteries  they  also  erected  canvas  screens  behind 
the  embrasures — with  what  object  it  was  difficult  to  conceive. 
These  diversions  they  repeated  so  often  during  our  stay,  that 
at  last  we  ceased  to  regard  them  ; but  it  was  amusing  to  hear 
some  of  our  old  quarter-masters  now  and  then  gravely  report 
to  Captain  Buchanan : “ Another  dungaree  fort  thrown  up, 
sir!’’ 

On  Saturday  morning  a surveying  expedition,  consisting 
of  one  boat  from  each  ship,  under  the  charge  of  Lieut.  Bent, 


420 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN, 


of  the  Missisippi,  was  sent  for  the  purpose  of  sounding  up  the 
bay.  The  other  officers  were  Lieut.  Gruest,  of  the  Susquehanna, 
Lieut.  Balch,  of  the  Plymouth,  and  Mr.  Madigan,  Master  of 
the  Saratoga.  The  boats  carried,  in  addition  to  the  usual  en 
sign,  a white  flag  at  the  bow,  and  were  fully  manned  with 
armed  seamen.  They  ran  up  the  bay  to  a distance  of  about 
four  miles,  and  found  every  where  from  thirty  to  forty-three 
fathoms  of  water.  The  recall  was  then  hoisted,  and  a signal 
gun  fired,  to  bring  them  back.  In  the  afternoon  they  sounded 
around  the  bight  of  Uraga,  keeping  about  a cable’s  length  from 
the  shore.  They  found  five  fathoms  of  water  at  this  distance, 
though  nearer  to  the  beach  there  were  occasional  reefs.  Mr. 
Heine,  the  artist,  obtained  a panoramic  sketch  of  the  shore, 
with  the  batteries,  villages,  and  other  objects  in  detail.  On 
approaching  the  forts,  the  soldiers  at  first  came  out,  armed  with 
matchlocks,  but  as  the  boats  advanced  nearer,  they  retired 
within  the  walls.  The  forts  were  all  of  very  rude  and  imperfect 
construction,  and  all  together  only  mounted  fourteen  guns, 
none  of  which  were  larger  than  nine-pounders.  The  whole 
number  of  soldiers  seen  was  about  four  hundred,  a considerable 
portion  of  whom  were  armed  with  spears.  Their  caps  and 
shields  were  lacquered,  and  glittered  in  the  sun  like  polished 
armor.  The  carriages  of  the  guns  were  also  lacquered.  The 
embrasures  were  so  wide  that  the  guns  were  wholly  unpro- 
tected, while  they  were  so  stationed  that  the  forts  could  be 
stormed  from  either  side,  with  very  little  risk  to  the  assaulting 
party.  The  parapets  were  of  earth,  and  about  twelve  feet  in 
thickness,  and  the  barracks  in  the  rear  were  of  wood.  Indeed, 
the  whole  amount  of  the  Japanese  defences  appeared  laughable, 
after  all  the  extravagant  stories  we  had  heard. 


B3CPL0RING  THE  BAY. 


421 


Mr  Madigau  approached,  at  one  place,  to  within  a hundred 
yards  of  the  shore.  Three  official  personages  were  standing 
upon  a bank  of  earth,  when  some  one  in  the  boat  raised  a spy- 
glass to  get  a nearer  view  of  them.  No  sooner  did  they  be 
hold  the  glittering  tube  pointed  at  them  than  they  scrambled 
down  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  concealed  themselves.  There 
were  three  boat-loads  of  soldiers  near  the  shore,  who  made  signs 
to  him  to  keep  off,  but  he  answered  them  by  pointing  out  the 
way  he  intended  to  go.  Thereupon  they  put  off,  and  bore  down 
upon  him  so  rapidly,  that  he  at  first  thought  they  intended  to 
run  into  him,  and  ordered  his  men  to  trail  their  oars  and  put 
caps  on  their  carbines.  The  boats  stopped  at  once,  and  made 
no  attempt  to  interfere  with  the  cutter’s  course. 

On  Monday  morning  the  same  surveying  party  was  again 
dispatched  up  the  bay,  followed  by  the  Mississippi,  which  was 
designed  to  protect  them,  and  tow  them  back  in  the  evening. 
Lieut.  Bent’s  boat  was  in  advance,  and  as  he  passed  the  pro- 
montory of  Uraga,  three  Japanese  boats  put  out  to  meet  him. 
The  officers  in  them  made  signs  to  return,  but  he  kept  steadily 
on  his  way.  We  watched  the  progress  of  our  boats  with 
glasses,  but  at  the  distance  of  four  miles,  they,  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi, passed  out  of  sight  behind  the  point. 

Several  Government  boats,  fully  manned,  were  seen  from 
time  to  time,  pulling  across  the  bay,  in  the  direction  of  the 
surveying  fleet,  but  no  prominent  movement  occurred  until 
noon.  At  this  time  the  distant  shores  were  so  lifted  by  the 
effect  of  a mirage,  that  we  saw  land  extending  entirely  around 
the  head  of  the  bay,  where  previously  none  had  been  visible. 
The  eastern  shore  was  remarkably  distinct,  and  for  the  first 
time  we  observed  a low,  sandy  promontory  stretching  out  into 


422 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


the  bay,  five  or  six  miles  to  the  north  of  us.  Near  the  middle 
of  it  rose  a low  mound,  on  which,  by  the  aid  of  a glass,  we 
could  discern  a number  of  soldiers,  clustered  around  some 
white  objects,  which  I took  to  be  tents.  In  a short  time 
several  hundred  men  were  marched  down  to  the  beach,  where 
they  formed  a line  nearly  half  a mile  in  length.  At  least  fifty 
banners,  of  various  colors  and  devices,  were  planted  along  the 
line.  A number  of  Government  boats,  similar  to  those  which 
had  visited  us,  were  drawn  up  on  the  beach.  The  greater  part 
of  the  soldiers  embarked  in  the  boats,  which  put  oflP,  one  after 
another,  and  made  directly  across  the  bay.  We  saw  nothing 
more  until  4 o’clock  in  the  afternoon,  when  the  Mississippi 
made  her  appearance,  at  a distance  of  ten  miles.  The  head- 
land of  Uraga  was  crowded  with  soldiers,  who  came  out  to  see 
her  pass. 

From  some  of  the  officers  who  were  of  the  party,  I learned 
the  following  particulars : In  ascending  the  bay,  they  were 

constantly  met  by  Government  boats,  the  officers  in  which 
urged  them,  by  signs,  to  return.  They  kept  on  their  course, 
however,  until  Mr.  Bent  endeavored  to  proceed  to  the  head  of 
a deep  bay  on  the  western  coast.  Here  he  was  met  by  forty- 
five  Japanese  boats,  which  placed  themselves  in  front  of  him, 
to  intercept  his  progress.  He  ordered  his  men  to  lay  on  their 
oars  and  fix  bayonets  to  their  muskets,  but  this  produced  no 
impression.  As  the  Mississippi  was  more  than  two  miles 
astern,  he  dispatched  one  of  the  boats  to  summon  her,  and  then, 
ordering  half  his  men  to  pull  directly  towards  the  Japanese 
boats,  while  the  other  half  held  their  arms  in  readiness,  he 
steadily  approached  their  line.  They  made  signs  and  threaten- 
ing gestures,  to  which  he  paid  no  heed,  and  as  this  cutter  al- 


perry’s  bay. 


423 


most  touched  their  oars,  they  gave  way,  overawed  by  what 
must  have  seemed  to  them  an  insane  determination.  The  ap- 
proach of  the  Mississippi  soon  dispersed  the  whole  of  them. 

The  boats  every  where  obtained  deep  soundings,  with  a 
bottom  of  soft  mud.  The  furthest  point  reached  was  ten  or 
twelve  miles  from  our  anchorage.  The  shores  were  bold  and 
steep,  with  mountains  in  the  background,  and  the  bay  (to 
which  Lieut.  Bent  gave  the  name  of  Perry’s  Bay)  offered  a 
secure  and  commodious  anchorage.  On  her  retTim,  the  Missis- 
sippi came  down  the  centre  of  the  bay,  finding  every  where 
abundance  of  water. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 


THE  FIRST  LANDING  IN  JAPAN- 

The  Day  of  Landing— Preparations  on  Shore — The  Bight  of  6ori-hama — Japanese 
Military  Display — Arrival  of  the  Governors— Their  Official  Dresses — Precautions 
on  Board — ^The  Procession  of  Boats — An  Inspiring  Scene — The  Landing— Numbers 
of  the  Escort — The  Japanese  Troops — ^The  Commodore’s  Landing— March  to  the 
House  of  Reception — Japanese  Body-Guard— The  Hall  of  Audience— Two  Japanese 
Princes — Delivery  of  the  President’s  Letter — An  Official  Conversation — ^Return  to 
the  Squadron. 

It  was  finally  arranged  with  the  Japanese  officials,  that  the 
President’s  letter  should  be  delivered  on  Thursday  morning, 
July  14,  at  the  town  of  Gori-hama,  two  miles  south  of  Uraga. 

The  morning  was  heavy  and  dark  before  sunrise,  but  soon 
afterwards  cleared  off  brilliantly.  As  soon  as  the  shore  could 
be  distinguished,  it  was  seen  that  the  principal  battery  on  the 
promontory  of  Uraga  had  been  greaty  amplified  and  adorned 
by  screens  of  cotton  canvas,  in  honor  of  the  occasion.  On  the 
hill  above,  among  the  trees,  there  were  two  small  forts,  or  rather 
pavilions,  of  the  same  material.  The  canvas  was  stretched 
along  a row  of  stakes  so  as  to  form  a species  of  panelling,  on 
which  the  Imperial  coat-of-arms  was  painted,  alternating  with 
other  devices.  Behind  the  canvas  we  could  see  that  numerous 
companies  of  soldiers  were  drawn  up  in  different  costume  from 


JAPANESE  MILITARY  DISPLAY. 


425 


that  which  they  usually  wore.  Their  arms  were  bare,  and  the 
body  covered  with  a short  tunic  of  a dark-brown,  blue  or  pur- 
ple color,  bound  with  a girdle  at  the  waist. 

About  eight  o’clock  the  anchors  were  lifted,  and  the 
Snsquehanna  and  Mississippi  moved  slowly  down  the  Bay, 
leaving  the  Plymouth  and  Saratoga.  We  soon  saw  two  boats 
bearing  the  Government  flag  pulling  abreast  of  us,  but  furthei 
in  shore,  and  accompanied  by  four  other  boats  with  red  ban- 
ners, probably  containing  a military  escort.  As  the  bight 
opened  behind  the  promontory,  we  saw  a long  line  of  canvas 
walls,  covered  with  the  Imperial  crest,  stretching  quite  around 
the  head  of  the  bight.  In  front  were  files  of  soldiers,  standing 
motionless  on  the  sandy  beach.  A multitude  of  banners  of  va- 
rious brilliant  colors  gleamed  in  the  sun.  Near  the  centre  of 
the  crescent  formed  by  the  troops,  were  planted  nine  tall 
standards — ^four  on  one  side  and  five  on  the  other — from  which 
broad  scarlet  pennons  hung  to  the  ground.  In  the  rear  of 
these  three  new  pyramidal  roofs  showed  that  a house  had 
been  prepared  expressly  for  the  Commodore’s  reception.  On 
the  right,  upwards  of  fifty  or  sixty  boats  were  drawn  up  in  a 
line  parallel  to  the  beach,  each  having,  a red  flag  at  its  stern. 
From  the  head  of  the  bight  a narrow  valley  extended  inland 
between  luxuriantly  wooded  hills.  On  the  left  side  was  a pio 
tuiesque  little  town,  the  name  of  which  the  Japanese  informed 
us,  was  Gori-hama.  The  place  was  undoubtedly  chosen,  both 
on  account  of  its  remoteness  from  Uraga,  which  is  a port  of 
customs,  and  the  facility  which  it  afforded  to  the  Japanese  for 
the  exhibition*  of  a large  military  force — a measure  dictated 
alike  by  their  native  caution,  and  the  love  of  display  for  which 
they  are  noted. 


426 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


The  anchor  was  no  sooner  down,  than  the  two  Government 
boats  sculled  alongside,  and  Yezaimon,  with  the  Interpreters, 
Tatsonoske  and  Tokoshiuro,  came  on  board.  The  second  boat 
contained  the  Deputy  Governor,  Saboroske,  and  an  attendant  offi- 
cer. They  were  accommodated  with  seats  on  the  quarter-deck 
until  all  our  preparations  for  landing  were  completed.  They 
were  dressed,  as  they  had  hinted  the  day  previous,  in  official 
garments  of  rich  silk  brocade,  bordered  with  velvet.  The 
gowns  differed  little  in  form  from  those  they  ordinarily  wore, 
but  were  elaborately  embroidered,  and  displayed  a greater  va- 
riety of  gay  colors  than  taste  in  their  disposal.  Saboroske  had 
a pair  of  short  and  very  wide  pantaloons,  resembling  a petti- 
coat with  a seam  up  the  middle,  below  which  appeared  his  bare 
legs,  and  black  woollen  socks,  with  an  effect  rather  comical 
than  otherwise.  His  shoulders  contained  lines  of  ornament  in 
gold  thread.  All  the  officers  wore  their  crest,  or  coat-of-arms, 
embroidered  upon  the  back,  sleeves  and  breasts  of  their  gar- 
ments. 

The  boats  of  the  Mississippi,  Plymouth  and  Saratoga,  were 
alongside  in  less  than  half  an  hour  after  our  anchor  dropped, 
and  preparations  were  made  for  leaving  at  once.  Both  steam- 
ers lay  with  their  broadsides  to  the  shore,  and  the  decks  were 
cleared,  the  guns  primed  and  pointed,  ready  for  action,  in  case 
of  treachery.  Commanders  Kelly  and  Lee  remained  on  board 
their  respective  ships,  in  order  to  act  in  case  of  necessity. 
The  morning  was  very  bright  and  clear,  and  the  fifteen  laim- 
ches  and  cutters,  containing  the  officers,  seamen,  marines,  and 
bandsmen,  presented  a brilliant  appearance,  as  they  clustered 
around  our  starboard  gangway.  Commander  Buchanan  took 
the  lead,  in  his  barge,  with  one  of  the  Japanese  Government 


THE  LANDING. 


427 


boats  on  each  side.  Merrily  as  the  oars  of  our  men  dipped  the 
waves,  it  required  their  utmost  to  keep  pace  with  the  athletic 
scullers  of  Japan.  The  other  American  boats  followed  nearly 
in  line,  and  the  van  of  the  procession  was  more  than  half-way 
to  the  shore  when  the  guns  of  the  Susquehanna  announced  the 
Commodore’s  departure.  The  gleam  of  arms,  the  picturesque 
mingling  of  blue  and  white,  in  the  uniforms,  and  the  sparkling 
of  the  waves  under  the  steady  strokes  of  the  oarsmen,  com- 
bined to  form  a splendid  picture,  set  off  as  it  was  by  the  back- 
ground of  rich  green  hills,  and  the  long  line  of  soldiery  and 
banners  on  the  beach.  All  were  excited  by  the  occasion,  and 
the  men  seemed  to  be  as  much  elated  in  spirits  as  those  who 
had  a more  prominent  part  in  the  proceedings.  We  all  felt, 
that  as  being  the  first  instance  since  the  expulsion  of  the  Por- 
tuguese from  Japan,  when  a foreign  Ambassador  had  been 
officially  received  on  Japanese  soil,  it  was  a memorable  event 
in  the  history  of  both  countries,  and  that,  if  not  an  augury  cf 
the  future  and  complete  success  of  the  Expedition,  it  was  at 
least  a commencement  more  auspicious  than  we  had  ventured 
to  anticipate. 

An  impromptu  jetty  composed  of  bags  of  sand,  had  been 
thrown  up  for  the  occasion  near  the  centre  of  the  crescent- 
shaped beach  at  the  head  of  the  bight.  Capt.  Buchanan,  who 
had  command  of  the  party,  was  the  first  to  leap  ashore.  The 
remaining  boats  crowded  rapidly  in  beside  the  jetty,  landed  as 
many  of  their  crews  as  had  been  detailed  for  the  escort  on 
shore,  and  then  pulled  off  about  fifty  yards.  The  seamen  and 
marines  were  formed  into  a line  as  soon  as  they  were  landed, 
and  presented  a compact  and  imposing  file  along  the  beach. 
The  officers  commanding  detachments  were  Commanders  Bn- 


428 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


chanan  and  Walker,  and  Lieuts.  Gillis  and  Taylor.  The 
bodies  of  seamen  were  in  immediate  charge  of  Lieut.  Duer,  of 
the  Susquehanna;  Lieut.  Morris,  of  the  Mississippi;  Lieut.  Mat- 
thews of  the  Plymouth,  and  Passed  Midshipman  Scott,  of  the 
Saratoga.  Including  the  other  officers,  there  were  upwards  of 
320  persons  landed,  while  the  Japanese  troops  amounted,  as  they 
themselves  informed  us,  to  five  thousand.  We  had  112  marines, 
about  120  seamen,  50  officers,  and  30  or  40  musicians.  About 
a hundred  yards  from  the  beach  stood  the  foremost  files  of  the 
Japanese,  in  somewhat  loose  and  straggling  order.  Their  front 
occupied  the  whole  beach,  their  right  fiank  resting  on  the  vil- 
lage of  Gori-hama,  and  their  left  against  a steep  hill  which 
bounded  the  bight  on  the  northern  side.  The  greater  part 
were  stationed  behind  the  canvas  screens,  and  from  the  num- 
bers, crowded  together  in  the  rear,  some  of  the  officers  estima- 
ted their  force  at  nearer  ten  than  five  thousand  men.  Those 
in  the  front  rank  were  armed  with  swords,  spears  and  match- 
locks, and  their  uniform  differed  little  from  the  usual  Japanese 
costume.  There  were  a number  of  horses,  of  a breed  larger 
and  much  superior  to  the  Chinese,  and  in  the  background  we 
saw  a body  of  cavalry.  On  the  slope  of  the  hill  near  the  vil- 
lage, a great  number  of  natives,  many  of  whom  were  women, 
had  collected,  out  of  curiosity  to  witness  the  event. 

A salute  was  fired  from  the  Susquehanna,  as  the  Commo- 
dore left,  accompanied  by  his  staff.  Commander  Adams,  and 
Lieut  Contee,  and  the  men  had  scarcely  been  formed  into  line 
before  his  barge  approached  the  shore.  The  officers  compos- 
ing the  Commodore’s  escort  formed  a double  line  from  the 
jetty,  and  as  he  passed  between  them  fell  into  proper  order  be- 
hind him.  He  was  received  with  the  customary  honors,  and 


JAPANESE  BODY-GUARD. 


429 


the  procession  immediately  started  for  the  place  of  reception. 
A stalwart  boatswain’s  mate  was  selected  to  bear  the  broad 
pennant  of  the  Commodore,  supported  by  two  very  tall  and 
powerful  negro  seamen,  completely  armed.  Behind  these  fol- 
lowed two  sailor  boys,  bearing  the  letter  of  the  President  and 
the  Commodore’s  letter  of  credence,  in  their  sumptuous  boxes, 
wrapped  in  scarlet  cloth.  Then  came  the  Commodore  himself, 
with  his  staff  and  escort  of  officers.  The  marine  force,  a fine, 
athletic  body  of  men,  commanded  by  Maj.  Zeilin,  with  a de- 
tachment from  the  Mississippi,  under  Capt.  Slack,  led  the  way, 
and  the  corps  of  seamen  from  all  the  ships  brought  up  the 
rear. 

The  house  of  reception  was  directly  in  front  of  the  landing, 
but  an  intervening  screen  rendered  a slight  detour  necessary 
in  order  to  reach  the  entrance ; and  Maj.  Zeilin  made  the  most 
of  this  circumstance,  in  order  to  display  our  forces  to  the 
Japanese.  There  certainly  was  a marked  contrast  between 
the  regular,  compact  files  of  our  men,  and  their  vigorous,  mus- 
cular figures,  and  the  straggling  ranks  of  the  mild,  effeminate- 
featured  Japanese.  In  front  of  the  house  were  two  old  brass 
four-pounders,  apparently  of  Spanish  manufacture,  and  on  each 
side  stood  a company  of  soldiers,  who  belonged  either  to  the 
Imperial  forces,  or  to  the  body-guard  of  the  Prince.  Those  on 
the  left  wore  a uniform  somewhat  resembling  the  modern 
Egyptian  dress.  It  was  of  a dark  gray  color,  having  full 
trowsers,  gathered  below  the  knees,  a broad  sash  around  the 
waist,  and  a white  cloth,  similar  to  a turban,  bound  upon  the 
head.  They  were  armed  with  the  old  Tower  muskets,  which 
are  to  be  found  in  every  part  of  the  world,  with  flint  locks  and 
bayonets.  Those  on  the  right  wore  a different  uniform,  ex- 


430 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


Libiting  a mixture  of  dull  brown  and  yellow  in  its  colors,  and 
carried  matchlocks  of  an  antique  fashion. 

Yezaimon  and  the  Interpreters  preceded  us,  in  order  to  show 
the  way.  The  distance  from  the  jetty  to  the  door  of  the  build- 
ing was  so  short,  that  little  opportunity  was  given  me  for 
noticing  minutely  the  appearance  of  the  Japanese,  or  the  order 
of  their  array.  The  building  into  which  the  Commodore  and 
suite  were  ushered  was  small,  and  appeared  to  have  been  erected 

in  haste.  The  timbers  were  of  pine  wood,  and  numbered,  as 

« 

if  they  had  been  brought  from  some  other  place.  The  first 
apartment,  which  was  about  forty  feet  square,  was  of  canvas 
with  an  awning  of  the  same,  of  a white  ground,  with  the  Im 
perial  arms  emblazoned  on  it  in  places.  The  fioor  was  covered 
with  white  cotton  cloth,  with  a pathway  of  red  felt,  or  some 
similar  substance,  leading  across  the  room  to  a raised  inner 
apartment,  which  was  wholly  carpeted  with  it.  This  apartment, 
the  front  of  which  was  entirely  open,  so  that  it  corresponded 
precisely  to  the  diwan  in  Turkish  houses,  was  hung  with  fine 
cloth,  containing  the  Imperial  arms,  in  white,  on  a ground  of 
violet.  On  the  right  hand  was  a row  of  arm-chairs,  sufficient 
in  number  for  the  Commodore  and  his  staff,  while  on  the  op- 
posite side  sat  the  Prince  who  had  been  appointed  to  receive 
the  President’s  letter,  with  another  official  of  similar  rank. 
Their  names  were  given  by  the  Interpreter  as  “ Toda  Idzu-no- 
Kami,”  Toda,  Prince  of  Idzu,  and  “ Ido  Iwami-no-Kami,”  Ido, 
Prince  of  Iwami.  The  Prince  of  Idzu  was  a man  of  about  fifty, 
with  mild,  regular  features,  an  ample  brow,  and  an  intelligent, 
refiective  expression.  He  was  dressed  with  great  richness, 
in  heavy  robes  of  silken  tissue,  wrought  into  elaborate  orna- 
ments with  gold  and  silver  thread.  The  Prince  of  Iwami  was 


AN  OFFICIAL  CONVERSATION. 


431 


at  least  fifteen  years  older,  and  dressed  with  nearly  equal 
splendor.  His  face  was  wrinkled  with  age,  and  exhibited 
neither  the  intelligence  nor  the  benignity  of  his  associate. 
They  both  rose  and  bowed  gravely  as  the  Commodore  entered, 
but  immediately  resumed  their  seats,  and  remained  as  silent 
and  passive  as  statues  during  the  interview. 

At  the  head  of  the  room  was  a large  scarletdacquered  box, 
with  brazen  feet,  beside  which  Yezaimou  and  the  Interpreter, 
Tatsonoske,  knelt.  The  latter  then  asked  whether  the  letters 
were  ready  to  be  delivered,  stating  that  the  Prince  was  ready 
to  receive  them.  The  boxes  were  brought  in,  opened,  so  that 
the  writing  and  the  heavy  golden  seals  were  displayed,  and 
placed  upon  the  scarlet  chest.  The  Prince  of  Iwami  then 
handed  to  the  Interpreter,  who  gave  it  to  the  Commodore, 
an  official  receipt,  in  J apanese,  and  at  the  same  time  the  Inter- 
preter added  a Dutch  translation.  The  Commodore  remarked 
that  he  would  sail  in  a few  days  for  Loo-Choo  and  Canton,  and 
if  the  Japanese  Government  wished  to  send  any  dispatches  to 
those  places  he  would  be  happy  to  take  them.  Without  ma- 
king any  direct  reply,  the  Interpreter  asked : “ When  will 

you  come  again  ? ” The  Commodore  answered,  “ As  I sup- 
pose it  will  take  some  time  to  deliberate  upon  the  letter  of  the 
President,  I shall  not  wait  now,  but  will  return  in  a few 
months  to  receive  the  answer.”  He  also  spoke  of  the  revolution 
in  China,  and  the  Interpreter  asked  the  cause  of  it,  without 
translating  the  communication  to  the  Prince.  He  then  in- 
quired when  the  ships  would  return  again,  to  which  the  Com- 
modore replied  that  they  would  probably  be  there  in  April  or 
May.  “ All  four  of  them  ? ” he  asked.  “ All  of  them,” 
answered  the  Commodore,  “ and  probably  more.  This  is  but  a 


432 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


portion  of  the  squadron.”  No  further  conversation  took  place. 
The  letters  having  been  formally  delivered  and  received,  the 
Commodore  took  his  leave,  while  the  two  Princes,  who  had 
fulfilled  to  the  letter  their  instructions  not  to  speak,  rose  and 
remained  standing  until  he  had  retired  from  their  presence. 

The  return  to  the  boats  was  made  in  the  same  order,  the 
bands  playing  “ Hail  Columbia  ” and  “ Yankee  Doodle,”  with 
more  spirit  than  ever  before,  and  few  of  those  present,  I ven- 
ture to  say,  ever  heard  our  national  airs  with  more  pride  and 
pleasure.  Yezaimon,  Saboroske,  and  the  two  Interpreters  at- 
tended the  Commodore  to  the  boat,  and  as  the  embarkation  of 
the  different  boats’  crews  occupied  some  time,  on  account  of 
the  smallness  of  the  jetty,  several  of  the  Japanese  soldiers 
profited  by  the  delay  to  come  down  and  examine  us  more  close- 
ly. Many  of  our  men  strayed  along  the  beach,  picking  up 
shells  and  pebbles  as  mementoes  of  the  visit.  In  less  than 
twenty  minutes,  however,  all  were  embarked,  and  we  returned 
to  the  ships,  accompanied  by  the  two  Japanese  boats  which  had 
piloted  us  to  the  shore.  Before  twelve  o’clock  the  anchors 
were  lifted,  and  both  vessels  were  under  way  on  a cruise  up 
the  bay. 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 


THE  UPPER  BAT  OP  TEDO. 

The  Japanese  Officers  on  Board — Their  Manners — Their  Dislike  to  the  Chinese — Their 
Swords— Their  Curiosity — Passing  up  the  Bay — Beauty  of  the  Scenery — “ Perry’s 
Bay  ” — Junks  bound  for  Yedo — Another  Visit — Further  Surveys — The  Natives — 
An  Excursion  towards  Yedo — Extent  and  Capacity  of  the  Upper  Bay — Change  of 
Anchorage — The  Surveys  Proceed — Interchange  of  Presents — A Dilemma — Final 
Satisfaction  — Farewell  of  the  Japanese  Officials — Commodore  Perry’s  Diplomacy — 
Departure  from  Japan — A Multitude  of  Boats— Oosima— The  Islands  off  the  Bay — 
Discoveries— Formation  of  the  Group — We  Sail  for  Ohosima — A Typhoon— Return 
to  Loo-Choo — The  Second  Visit  to  Japan. 


Yezaimon,  Saboroske,  and  the  Interpreters  accepted  an  invi- 
tation to  remain  on  board  until  we  reached  Uraga,  and  have 
their  boats  towed  at  Our  stern.  This  gave  them  a chance  of 
seeing  the  steam-engine  in  operation,  for  which  they  had  ex- 
pressed a great  desire.  They  were  conducted  over  the  ship, 
and  saw  the  engine  from  all  points  of  view,  betraying  a 
great  deal  of  curiosity  in  regard  to  its  operation,  but  no  fear. 
They  even  obtained  a glimmering  idea  of  the  manner  in  which 
the  steam  acted,  to  set  the  enormous  mass  in  motion.  Tatson- 
oske  asked  if  it  was  not  the  same  machine  in  a smaller  com- 


19 


434 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


pass  which  we  used  on  railroads.  During  their  inspection  of 
the  ship  they  saw  many  things  which  must  have  been  new  and 
strange  to  them,  but  their  composure  and  self-possession  were 
not  in  the  least  disturbed.  Notwithstanding  the  decks  were 
crowded  with  officers  and  men,  whose  curiosity  to  see  them 
was  vety  great,  they  were  to  all  appearance  unconscious  of  it, 
and  conducted  themselves  with  as  much  ease  and  propriety  as 
I ever  saw  among  the  most  refined  people.  The  complexion 
of  these  officers  was  a dark  olive,  but  not  too  dark  to  allow  a 
ruddy  tinge  on  the  lips  and  cheeks.  Their  eyes  were  somewhat 
larger,  and  not  so  obliquely  set  as  those  of  the  Chinese,  their 
foreheads  broader  and  more  open,  with  a greater  facial  angle, 
and  the  expression  of  their  faces  denoted  a lively  and  active 
mind.  Notwithstanding  that  spirit  of  cunning  and  secrecy 
which,  through  the  continual  teachings  of  their  government 
has  become  almost  a second  nature  to  them,  their  faces  were 
agreeable  and  expressive.  Their  motions  and  gestures  were 
characterized  by  an  unstudied  grace,  and  it  was  the  unanimous 
opinion  of  all  our  officers  that  they  were  as  perfect  gentlemen 
as  could  be  found  in  any  part  of  the  world.  A curious  illus- 
tration of  their  dislike  to  the  Chinese,  who  are  greatly  inferior 
to  them  in  propriety,  and  elegance  of  manner,  occurred  while 
they  were  on  board.  One  of  their  Interpreters,  noticing  some 
of  the  Chinese  deck-hands,  who  had  been  shipped  at  Shanghai, 
asked  with  a face  expressive  of  great  contempt  and  disgust : 
Is  it  possible  that  you  have  Chinese  among  your  men?”  Mr. 
Portman  with  much  readiness,  but  not  entire  candor,  replied  : 
“ These  men  are  the  servants  of  our  sailors, and  thereby  re- 
instated us  in  the  good  opinion  of  the  Japanese. 

While  going  their  rounds  their  swords  were  left,  in  the 


BEAUTY  OF  THE  SCENERY. 


435 


cabin,  and  most  of  the  officers  made  use  of  the  opportunity  to 
examine  them.  The  steel  was  of  admirable  quality,  and  kept 
in  good  condition,  altliough  the  shape  of  the  blade  was  rather 
unwieldy,  and  the  handle  was  witliout  a guard.  The  scabbards 
were  made  of  shark-skin  very  handsomely  polished.  While  in 
the  cabin,  a globe  was  brought,  and  the  position  of  the  United 
Stjites  shown  to  the  Japanese.  Tatsonoske  immediately  pointed 
out  Washington  and  New  York,  and  seemed  tolerably  familiar 
with  the  geography  of  our  country,  as  well  as  that  of  Europe. 
He  asked  whether  in  America  many  of  the  roads  were  not  cut 
through  the  mountains — evidently  referring  to  railroads.  Ye- 
zaimon  expressed  his  desire  to  examine  a revolver,  several  of 
which  the  Japanese  had  noticed  in  the  officers’  belts.  Com- 
mander Buchanan  therefore  fired  off  all  the  chambers  of  a 
genuine  “ Colt,”  from  the  quarter-deck,  to  his  great  astonish- 
ment. Before  we  had  half  gratified  their  curiosity,  (which  the 
steam-whistle  raised  to  the  highest  pitch,)  we  were  off  Uraga, 
and  they  were  obliged  to  leave. 

As  we  moved  out  past  the  promontory  of  Uraga,  the  west- 
ern shore  opened  on  the  left,  showing  a broad  deep  bay,  em- 
bosomed by  hills  covered  with  the  greenest  and  most  luxuriant 
foliage,  and  with  several  large  villages  at  their  base.  We  ap- 
proached within  three  miles  of  the  eastern  shore,  which  is  lof- 
tier and  wilder  than  the  western,  rising  into  a range  of  rugged 
mountains,  which  showed  no  signs  of  habitation  or  cultivation. 
But  the  lower  slopes,  which  undulated  gently  to  the  water, 
charmed  me  by  the  rich  beauty  of  their  scattered  groves,  and  the 
green  terraces  and  lawns  into  which  centuries  of  patient  culti- 
vation has  formed  them.  Outside  of  England  there  is  nothing 
so  green,  so  garden-like,  so  full  of  tranquil  beauty.  To  the  north 


436 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


the  hills  gradually  sank  away,  and  a sandy  spur  three  or  four 
miles  in  length,  stretched  into  the  hay.  This  proved  to  he  the 
ground  whereon  we  had  seen  the  parade  of  Japanese  soldiers, 
when  the  surveying  boats  ascended  the  bay.  The  two  mounds 
which  I had  noticed  through  a glass,  were  surmounted  with 
batteries  of  about  five  guns  each. 

Changing  our  course  we  made  over  toward  the  other  side, 
steering  for  a bold  projecting  headland,  about  twelve  miles  be- 
yond that  of  Uraga.  In  the  intervening  bight,  to  which  Lieut. 
Bent,  as  the  first  surveyor,  gave  the  name  of  “ Perry’s  Bay,’* 
there  are  two  lovely,  green  islands.  The  shores  of  the  bay  are 
as  thickly  settled  and  as  assiduously  cultivated,  as  about  and 
below  Urd.ga.  During  the  voyage  up,  we  had  at  no  time  less  than 
seven  fathoms,  and  generally  from  thirty  to  forty.  After  going 
a short  distance,  beyond  the  point  reached  by  the  Mississippi, 
and  upwards  of  ten  miles  beyond  our  former  anchorage,  we 
dropped  anchor  a mile  and  half  from  the  shore,  in  thirteen 
fathoms.  The  inward-bound  junks,  I noticed,  made  for  a point 
a little  east  of  north  from  our  position.  According  to  the  J a- 
panese  charts,  and  the  best  descriptions  of  Yedo,  this  must  have 
been  the  direction  of  the  capital.  A long,  low  headland  was 
visible  with  the  glass,  with  (apparently)  another  bight  beyond 
it;  but  to  the  north-east,  for  a segment  of  about  30°,  no  land 
could  be  seen.  This  also  corresponded  to  the  form  of  the 
bay,  as  given  in  Japanese  charts. 

Toward  evening  we  had  another  visit  from  Yezaimon,  who 
had  followed  us  from  Uraga,  with  the  intention  of  finding  out 
what  our  motives  were  in  proceeding  so  far  up  the  bay.  What- 
ever objections  he  may  have  made,  they  did  not  appear  to  be 
effectual,  for  as  long  as  we  remained,  the  survey  was  prosecuted 


AN  EXCURSION  TOWARDS  YEDO. 


437 


with  great  spirit  and  activity.  On  the  following  day  (Friday), 
Lieuts.  Cooper,  of  the  Susquehanna,  Clitz,  of  the  Mississippi, 
Goldsborough,  of  the  Saratoga,  and  Mathews,  of  the  Plymouth, 
sounded  around  the  islands  and  up  the  head  of  the  bight,  where 
they  found  a deep  inlet,  into  which  flowed  a beautiful  river. 
The  banks  were  studded  with  villages,  groves,  and  gardens, 
and  the  officers  were  enraptured  with  the  beauty  of  the 
scenery.  The  natives  of  both  sexes,  old  and  young,  came 
down  the  banks  and  saluted  them  in  a friendly  manner,  bring- 
ing them  cool  spring-water  to  drink,  and  ripe  peaches  from 
their  gardens. 

On  Friday  afternoon,  the  Commodore  went  on  board  the 
Mississippi,  transferring  his  broad  pennant  to  that  ship  for  a 
few  hours,  while  he  made  an  exploring  trip  still  further  up 
the  bay.  After  going  ten  miles  in  the  direction  of  Yedo,  the 
Mississippi  put  about  in  twenty  fathoms  water,  and  returned 
to  her  former  anchorage,  having  reached,  as  was  supposed,  a 
point  within  eight  miles  of  the  capital.  On  the  western  shore 
the  large  towns  of  Kanagawa  and  Kowazacki  were  seen; 
while  on  the  extremity  of  a cape  in  front,  not  more  than  four 
miles  distant,  stood  a tall  white  tower,  resembling  a light- 
house. Three  or  four  miles  beyond  and  within  this  point  was 
a crowd  of  shipping,  which  was  without  doubt  the  anchorage 
of  Sinagawa,  the  southern  suburb  of  Yedo.  There  was  every 
probability  that  the  Mississippi  could  have  advanced  to  a 
point  within  cannon-shot  of  the  city.  The  head  of  the  bay 
rounded  to  the  eastward,  and  in  that  direction  the  shores  be- 
came low  and  flat,  and  finally  disappeared  below  the  horizon. 
The  squadron  had,  therefore,  advanced  twenty  miles  further 
up  the  Bay  of  Yedo  than  any  previous  vessel,  and  shown  con- 


438 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


clusively  that,  instead  of  being  shallow  and  unnavigable,  as 
had  formerly  been  supposed,  it  contains  abundance  of  water 
and  excellent  harbors.  It  is,  in  fact,  one  of  the  largest  and 
finest  bays  in  the  world,  and  second  to  none  in  the  varied  and 
delightful  scenery  of  its  shores. 

Early  on  Saturday  morning  we  moved  frcJm  our  first  an- 
chorage to  another,  five  or  six  miles  further  down  the  bay,  and 
much  nearer  to  the  shore.  There  was  abundance  of  watei 
every  where,  and  all  around  the  beautiful  little  island,  a line 
dropped  close  to  the  shore  gave  five  fathoms.  The  western 
coast,  which  was  less  than  a mile  distant,  appeared  wonderfully 
green  and  beautiful.  It  curved  inward  so  as  to  form  a charm 
ing  sheltered  bay,  near  the  head  of  which  the  two  villages  of 
Otsu  and  Torigasaki  lay  embosomed  in  foliage.  There  was 
a small  battery,  almost  masked  by  trees,  on  the  summit  of 
the  island,  and  another  on  the  point  of  the  cape  below  us. 
This  part  of  the  bay  is  completely  land-locked,  the  promon- 
tory of  Uraga  projecting  so  far  as  to  cover  one  third  of  the 
eastern  shore.  The  surveying  boats  were  occupied  during  the 
whole  of  the  day,  without  any  interference  on  the  part  of  the 
Japanese,  who  seemed  to  have  made  up  their  minds  to  submit 
to  these  unusual  proceedings.  Too  much  credit,  however, 
cannot  be  awarded  to  the  different  officers,  and  especially  to 
Lieut.  Bent,  for  the  coolness  and  courage  with  which  they  pro- 
secuted their  work.  When  we  consider  that  this,  one  of  the 
greatest  bays  in  the  world,  had  hitherto  never  been  surveyed, 
the  interest  and  value  of  their  labors  will  be  better  under- 
stood. 

Yezaimon  came  again  on  Saturday  morning,  accompanied 
by  both  the  Interpreters.  This  time  they  brought  a numbei 


TNTERCHANGE  OP  PRESENTS. 


439 


cf  presents,  as  souvenirs  of  our  visit — consisting  of  lacquered 
cups,  very  light  and  elegant  in  form,  brocade  silks,  richly 
wrought  with  gold  and  silver  thread,  tobacco  pipes  and  pouches, 
and  fans  covered  with  hideously  distorted  and  lackadaisical 
pictures  of  Japanese  ladies.  The  Commodore  was  willing  to 
receive  them,  hut  insisted  on  giving  something  in  return.  A 
selection  of  American  manufactures  was  made,  which,  with 
some  maps,  engravings,  arms  and  other  articles,  formed  a re- 
turn more  than  equal  in  value.  They  refused  to  take  any  thing, 
affirming  that  it  was  forbidden  by  their  laws,  and  would  sub- 
ject them  to  the  danger  of  losing  their  lives : besides,  they 
declared,  the  presents  offered  them  were  too  valuable  to  be  ac- 
cepted. They  were  each  willing  to  receive  some  small  articles, 
which  could  be  readily  concealed  about  their  persons,  but  were 
positively  informed  that  we  could  accept  of  nothing  unless  they 
took  our  gifts,  with  the  exception  of  the  arms,  which  were  re- 
moved, as  they  stated  that  they  could  in  no  case  give  or  re- 
ceive arms.  When  Yezaimon  saw  his  presents  about  to  be 
tumbled  back  into  his  boat,  he  yielded  at  once,  choosing  what 
he  probably  considered  the  least  dangerous  horn  of  the  di- 
lemma. 

In  the  afternoon  they  returned  in  the  best  possible  humor, 
their  course  having  apparently  been  sanctioned  by  some  higher 
authority  on  shore.  They  brought  off  a quantity  of  fowls  in  light 
wicker  coops,  and  three  or  four  thousand  eggs  in  boxes,  taking 
away  in  return  a large  case  of  American  garden-seeds.  The  inter- 
view lasted  a considerable  time, 'as  they  were  socially  disposed, 
and  partook  of  refreshments,  both  solid  and  liquid.  Tatsonoske 
stated,  in  a half-confidential  way,  that  the  letter  of  the  Presi 
dent  had  been  received  in  Yedo,  and  that  if  the  translation 


440 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


which  they  had  already  obtained  through  the  Dutch  correspond- 
ed with  the  original,  the  Government  would  be  disposed  to  re 
gard  it  very  favorably.  He  also  hinted  that  Yezaimon  would 
shortly  be  promoted  to  a much  higher  rank.  The  latter  was 
exceedingly  jovial,  and  stated,  by  an  expressive  pantomime, 
that  he  would  shed  tears  on  the  departure  of  the  squadron.  It 
was  dusk  when  the  boat  pulled  off,  and  the  shadows  of  the 
wooded  hills,  lengthening  over  the  water,  soon  hid  from  sight 
the  last  glimpse  of  our  Japanese  friends. 

On  Sunday  morning,  the  17th  we  hove  anchor  and  started 
for  Loo-Choo,  having  in  the  space  of  ten  days  accomplished 
more  than  any  other  nation  had  been  able  to  effect  for  the  last 
two  centuries.  The  universal  feeling  on  board  was  one  of  hon- 
est pride  and  exultation.  Knowing  the  cunning  and  duplicity 
of  the  people  with  whom  we  had  to  deal,  it  was  a satisfaction 
to  find  all  their  arts  of  diplomacy  completely  shattered  by 
the  simple,  straightforward,  resolute  course  adopted  by  Com- 
modore Perry.  Nothing  could  have  been  better  managed,  from 
first  to  last ; and  I have  reason  to  know  that  the  final  success 
of  the  Expedition  was  owing  to  no  fortunate  combination  of 
circumstances,  but  wholly  to  the  prudent  and  sagacious  plan 
pre-arranged  by  its  Commander. 

The  day  of  our  departure  was  clear  and  warm,  and  the 
morning  light  fell  softly  on  the  verdurous  shores,  as  we  passed 
the  promontory  of  Uraga.  The  soldiers  were  all  gathered  on 
the  terraces,  in  front  of  the  batteries  to  see  us  pass.  The 
Mississippi  kept  such  a statiom  on  our  port  quarter,  that  from 
the  shore  she  would  appear  as  far  behind  the  Saratoga,  as  that 
vessel  from  the  Susquehanna;  and  the  sight  of  four  great 
war-ships,  with  all  sails  furled  and  yards  squared,  keeping 


THE  ISLANDS  OF  THE  BAY. 


441 


equi-distant  from  each  other  to  a hair’s  breadth,  yet  moving 
through  the  water  at  the  rate  of  eight  or  nine  knots,  must  have 
struck  the  Japanese  as  something  miraculous.  The  day  was 
so  clear  that  the  inhabitants  of  both  shores  had  an  excellent 
opportunity  of  seeing  the  performance  of  the  vessels,  and  we 
soon  found  that  the  news  of  our  departure  had  preceded  us. 
As  we  drew  abreast  of  Cape  Sagami,  and  made  down  the  centre 
of  the  bay,  keeping  much  nearer  the  eastern  shore  than  on  our 
entrance,  we  found  the  water  covered  with  boats,  which  had 
brought  out  loads  of  the  Japanese  to  get  a nearer  view.  The 
bay  was  sprinkled  with  them,  far  and  near,  and  at  a moderaU 
calculation,  I should  say  that  there  were  at  least  five  hundred 
Some  of  them  were  so  curious  as  to  approach  within  four  or 
five  hundred  yards,  when  the  men  lay  on  their  oars,  and  re- 
mained standing  motionless  until  long  after  we  had  passed.  I 
caught  a parting  glimpse  of  the  cone  of  Fusi-Yamma  through 
the  rifts  of  a pile  of  fleecy  clouds,  high  over  the  head  of  the 
Bay  of  Kowadzu. 

We  steered  for  the  itorthern  or  main  entrance  of  the  bay, 
keeping  between  three  and  four  miles  from  the  northern  shore, 
which  belongs  to  the  province  of  Awa.  Vries  Island,  or 
Oosima,  lay  to  the  south  of  us.  It  has  a bold,  convex  outline, 
and  its  summit  was  lost  in  the  clouds.  It  is  an  admirable  land- 
mark for  mariners,  and  in  connection  with  Cape  Idzu  and 
Rock  Island,  forms  a sure  guide  for  vessels  entering  the  Bay 
of  Yedo  from  the  east  or  south.  Our  course  was  nearly  due 
south  for  the  remain  ier  of  the*  day,  and  the  chain  of  islands 
which  extends  from  the  mouth  of  the  bay  to  the  penal  colony 
of  Fatsisio,  gradually  rose  to  view.  They  seem  to  have  been 
very  imperfectly  explored,  foi  on  none  of  our  charts  were  they 
19* 


442 


T-NDIA,  CHINA,  kND  JAPAN. 


laid  down  correctly  Vulcan  Island  is  conspicuous  for  its 
lofty,  conical  summit,  the  sides  of  which  are  streaked  with  dc* 
posits  of  lava.  It  was  covered,  from  the  brink  of  its  sea-worn 
crags,  with  the  most  luxuriant  vegetation.  To  the  east  of  it 
was  another  island,  not  given  in  any  chart,  and  the  Commodore 
accordingly  took  the  explorer’s  right,  and  named  it  “ Missis- 
sippi Island,”  A cluster  of  very  peculiar  pointed  rocks,  rising 
like  broken  obelisks  to  the  height  of  a hundred  feet,  received 
the  Susquehanna’s  name.  The  Plymouth  and  Saratoga  were 
also  honored — the  first  with  a large  isolated  rock,  the  second 
with  an  island — both  of  which  we  claim  the  merit  of  dis- 
covering. 

The  features  of  this  group  are  grand  and  imposing.  The 
shores  of  these  islands  are  mostly  precipitous,  presenting  few 
accessible  points,  and  being  nearly  circular  in  form,  enhance  the 
effect  of  the  lofty  summits  into  which  they  rise.  I counted 
eight  around  us  at  one  time ; some  bold  and  strongly  defined, 
from  their  vicinity ; others  distant,  blue,  and  floating  in  a va- 
pory atmosphere,  like  the  phantoms  of  islands.  We  could  not 
discern  any  dwellings  upon  them,  but  it  is  probable  that  they 
are  partly  inhabited.  We  passed  through  them  all  before  sun- 
set, and  still  steering  southward,  hoped  to  have  caught  a 
glimpse  of  Fatsisio,  which  could  not  have  been  more  than 
twenty-five  miles  distant;  but  night  set  in,  and  the  vessels 
were  put  upon  their  course  for  Loo-Choo. 

For  the  next  two  days,  we  ran  in  a south-westerly  direc- 
tion, aided  by  a strong  east  wind.  The  Saratoga  was  cast  off 
in  Lat.  30°  N.,  and  left  to  make  her  way  to  Shanghai,  where 
she  was  ordered  to  wintei.  The  Mississippi  also  cast  off  the 
Plymouth,  which  was  directed  to  sound  and  survey  along  the 


RETURN  TO  LOO  CHOO. 


443 


western  side  of  Ohosima  (the  island  supposed  to  have  been 
discovered  by  the  Preble),  while  the  Susquehanna  would  cruise 
along  the  eastern  side.  Commodore  Perry’s  intention  was  to 
spend  two  or  three  days  in  fixing  the  position  and  dimensions 
of  the  island,  and  in  communicating,  if  the  nature  of  the  coast 
would  allow,  with  the  inhabitants.  We  looked  forward  to  the 
visit  with  interest,  as  there  is  no  account  of  any  vessel  having 
ever  touched  there.  It  is  not  often  that  the  traveller  meets 
with  a large  community  of  semi-civilized  people,  to  whom  the 
European  race  is  unknown. 

On  Wednesday,  July  20th,  however,  a typhoon  came  on 
from  the  east.  Our  topmasts  and  topgallant-masts  were 
sent  down,  and  we  scudded  along  with  only  the  trysails  set. 
The  Susquehanna  rolled  in  a most  extraordinary  manner,  and 
the  great  pivot-gun  on  her  poop,  was  so  secured  with  lashings, 
and  bindings  of  every  description,  that  it  resembled  an  im- 
mense cast-iron  babe  in  swaddling-bands.  For  two  days*the 
storm  continued  to  rage  with  much  violence.  Both  our  fore 
and  main  trysail-gaffs  were  carried  away,  and  the  Mississippi 
lost  two  of  her  boats.  We  stood  off  and  on  for  two  days,  but 
the  sea  continued  so  rough  that  the  idea  of  proceeding  to 
Ohosima  was  finally  abandoned,  and  we  made  for  the  harbor  of 
Napa,  in  Loo-Choo,  where  we  arrived  on  the  25th.  Thus  ended 
the  first  campaign  of  the  United  States  Expedition  to  Japan — 
concerning  which,  it  will  ever  be  to  me  a source  of  pride  and 
satisfaction,  to  say:  Pars  parva  fui. 

Note. — The  result  of  the  Expedition  to  Japan  is  now  known  all 
over  the  world.  Commodore  Perry  returned  to  the  Bay  of  Yedo  in 
February,  1854,  his  squadron  augmented  by  the  steam-frigate  Powhatan, 
the  sloops-of-war  Macedonian  and  Vandalia,  and  the  store-ships  Lex- 


444 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


ington  and  Southampton.  He  anchored  before  Kanagawa,  a remote 
suburb  of  Yedo,  and  after  various  interviews  with  a Council  of  five 
Princes  of  the  Empire,  appointed  to  confer  with  him,  concluded  a 
treaty  of  amity  and  commerce  between  the  United  States  and  Japan, 
at  the  village  of  Yoko-hama,  near  Kanagawa,  in  the  beginning  of 
April.  By  this  treaty  the  ports  of  Simoda,  in  Niphon  (about  120  miles 
from  Yedo),  Hakodadi  in  the  island  of  Jesso,  and  Napa-Kiang  in  Loo- 
Choo,  are  opened  to  American  vessels  for  the  purposes  of  trade.  ' The 
squadron  visited  both  the  former  ports,  and  the  officers  of  the  Expe- 
dition were  allowed  perfect  liberty  to  go  on  shore,  mingle  freely  with 
the  inhabitants,  and  make  excursions  inland  to  the  distance  of  twenty 
miles.  The  success  of  the  negotiations  was  as  complete,  in  fact,  as  the 
most  sanguine  friend  of  the  undertaking  could  have  desired,  and  reflects 
great  honor  on  the  skill  and  prudence  which  marked  the  course  of 
Commodore  Perry.  As  my  connection  with  the  Expedition  ceased  after 
our  return  to  China,  I shall  not  attempt  a history  of  its  second  and  fai 
more  interesting  campaign — a complete  account  of  which  the  public 
will  soon  possess  in  the  national  work  now  being  published  under  the 
supervision  of  Commodore  Perry. 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 


OPERATIONS  IN  LOO-CHOO. 

Negotiations  with  the  New  Regent — Capt  Hall’s  Account  of  Loo-Choo — Napoleon’s  In* 
credulity — Its  Correctness — Verification  of  the  Japanese  Chronicle — The  Three  Cas- 
tles— The  Government  of  Loo-Choo — Provisions  for  the  Squadron — Duplicity  of  the 
OfiScials — The  Markets  deserted — The  Spies — The  Telegraph  and  Daguerreotype  in 
Loo-Choo — Demands  of  Commodore  Perry — The  Regent’s  Reply— The  Commodore 
successful — A Scene  in  the  Market-place — Chase  and  Capture  of  a Spy — The-Coal 
Depot — Exhibition  of  Loo-Choo  Industry — National  Contrasts — Steamship  Line 
across  the  Pacific. 


During  our  second  visit  to  Napa-Kiang,  on  our  return  from 
Japan.  Commodore  Perry  opened  negotiations  with  the  new 
Regent  (the  old  one  having  been  deposed  during  our  absence), 
for  the  purpose  of  procuring  privileges,  which  would  enable 
him  to  make  the  island  a permanent  rendezvous  for  the  squad- 
ron during  its  stay  in  the  East.  In  order  to  grant  his  re- 
quests, it  was  necessary  to  depart  in  some  degree  from  the  ex- 
clusive principle,  which  the  Loo-Chooans  have  either  borrowed 
from,  or  had  forced  upon  them  by  Japan  ; and  consequently, 
while — knowing  our  strength  and  their  weakness — they  avoided 
a candid  opposition,  they  know  how  to  assume  an  attitude 
of  passive  resistance,  which  was  far  more  perplexing.  The  ap- 


446 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


parent  insincerity  of  their  declarations,  the  shifts  to  which  they 
resorted,  and  the  deception  they  attempted  to  practise  upon  us 
taught  the  Commodore,  finally,  the  only  effective  method  of 
dealing  with  them^  and  gave  us  a better  insight  into  their  real 
character  than  has  fallen  to  the  lot  of  any  explorers  who  visit- 
ed the  island  before  us. 

I cannot  here  avoid  allusion  to  the  well-known  work  of 
Capt.  Basil  Hall,  who  has  given  the  most  full  and  detailed  ac- 
count of  Loo-Choo  which  we  possess.  He  was  commander  of 
the  Lyra^  which,  with  the  frigate  Alceste^  visited  the  island 
thirty-five  years  ago,  and  remained  about  six  weeks  at  Napa- 
Kiang.  He  had  considerable  intercourse  with  the  natives, 
whom  he  paints  in  the  most  glowing  colors,  as  models  of  primi- 
tive simplicity,  innocence  and  goodness,  such  as  are  to  be 
found  in  no  other  part  of  the  globe.  He  announces  as  facts 
that  they  were  ignorant  of  the  use  of  money,  that  they  had  no 
arms,  and  that  wars  were  unknown  in  their  history.  When 
Capt.  Hall  afterward  mentioned  these  things  to  Napoleon,  at 
St.  Helena,  the  Emperor  shook  his  head  incredulously,  and  ex- 
claimed : “ Point  d’  armes  / point  de  guerres  ! — impossible  ! ’’ 
He  was  right;  and  the  Captain,  on  these  and  many  other 
points,  was  thoroughly  cajoled  by  the  Loo-Chooans.  When 
we  first  arrived  they  told  us  the  same  things,  yet  we  soon  found 
that  they  were  familiar  with  money  and  arms — especially  the 
former — and  Klaproth’s  translation  of  the  “ Pan  To  Sets,^^  a 
Japanese  chronicle,  gives  an  account  of  their  wars  Their 
wonderful  innocence  and  simplicity  prove  to  be  the  disguises 
assumed  by  a marvellous  cunning,  and  their  alleged  goodness  of 
heart  is  illustrated  by  a Government  which  makes  luxuriom 
drones  of  a small  class,  and  abject  slaves  of  all  others. 


GOVERNMENT  OF  LOO-CHOO. 


447 


During  our  exploration  of  tlie  island,  we  found  an  interest- 
ing verification  of  its  former  history,  as  given  in  the  Japanese 
chronicle.  It  is  there  stated,  that  there  were  originally  three 
kingdoms,  called  the  Northern,  Central  and  Southern,  the  first 
and  last  named  of  which  were  in  the  course  of  time,  and  after 
lingering  civil  wars,  absorbed  by  the  third.  On  our  expedi- 
tion into  the  interior,  in  the  beginning  of  June,  we  discovered, 
as  I have  already  stated,  the  ruins  of  the  fortress-palace  of  the 
Northern  King — a massive  edifice,  600  feet  in  length,  on  the 
summit  of  a mountain.  The  present  Viceroy,  descended  from 
the  rulers  of  the  Central  Kingdom,  still  inhabits  their  castle : 
the  inscription  over  the  gate  of  Shui,  the  capital,  is : “ The 
Central  Hill,”  and  it  was  therefore  to  be  expected  that  the 
castle  of  the  third  King  might  he  found  in  the  southern  part 
of  the  island.  Accordingly,  on  our  return  from  J apan.  Com- 
modore Perry  directed  several  officers,  of  whom  I was  one,  to 
make  explorations  in  that  quarter,  and  we  finally  discovered 
the  ruins  of  the  castle,  about  four  miles  south-east  of  Napa,  on 
the  summit  of  a precipitous  cliff,  which  commanded  a view  of 
an  extensive  and  beautiful  landscape.  The  place  is  called  by 
the  natives  “ Timagusku,”  and  has  been  so  despoiled  that  only 
two  gateways  remain  entire.  The  outer  walls  inclose  an  area 
of  nearly  eight  acres. 

It  was  not  so  easy  to  obtain  correct  particulars  concerning 
the  structure  of  the  Government,  although  its  character  was 
exhibited  in  its  effects  upon  the  population.  The  present 
Viceroy  is  a minor,  and  the  chief  authority  is  exercised  by  a 
Regent,  the  three  Treasurers  of  the  kingdom,  and  perhaps 
some  additional  officers,  forming  a Council  which  he  consults, 
and  in  which,  apparently,  is  vested  the  right  to  appoint  or  de- 


448 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


pose  him.  There  are  also  various  grades  of  civil  rank^  as  in 
China  and  J apan.  The  soil  is  considered  the  property  of  the 
State,  and  all  that  it  yields  is  divided  into  ten  parts,  six  ol 
which  are  appropriated  by  the  Grovernment.  There  is  every 
evidence  that  a system  of  espionage,  similar  to  that  of  Japan, 
is  practised.  The  deep-rooted  fear  and  mistrust  of  the  people 
toward  the  officers  of  the  Government,  can  only  he  accounted 
for  by  the  existence  of  such  a system.  Wherever  we  went  we 
found  ourselves  preceded  and  followed  by  spies,  who  drove  the 
populace  from  our  path,  forced  them  in  some  instances  to  quit 
their  dwellings  or  abandon  their  villages,  and  prevented  them 
from  holding  any  communication  with  us.  Although,  owing 
to  the  remonstrances  made  by  Commodore  Perry,  this  annoy- 
ing surveillance  was  relaxed  toward  the  close  of  our  stay,  it 
was  never  wholly  abandoned. 

After  our  arrival  at  Napa-Kiang,  in  May,  the  squadron 
was  in  want  of  fresh  provisions,  and  the  Commodore  requested 
that  supplies  might  be  furnished,  promising  that  full  value 
should  be  paid  for  every  article.  The  Loo-Choo  authorities  at 
first  objected,  stating  that  their  island  was  poor,  and  that 
money  was  of  no  use  to  them,  but  that  they  would  furnish 
gratuitously  what  little  they  could  spare  from  their  own 
needs ; yet  after  some  negotiations,  they  agreed  to  the  demand, 
and  fixed  a scale  of  prices,  which,  on  comparison  with  those 
of  China,  we  found  to  be  sufficiently  high.  The  well-stocked 
markets  of  Napa,  and  the  rich  gardens  and  harvest-fields 
which  covered  the  island,  contradicted  their  complaints  of 
poverty.  When  the  day  of  settlement  came,  they  were  al- 
ways in  readiness  to  receive  the  money,  and  took  the  Spanish 


GOVERNMENT  SPIES. 


449 


dollars  and  American  eagles  with  great  satisfaction.  Thus  ^he 
way  was  broken  for  a closer  intercourse  with  the  people. 

The  next  step  was  to  obtain  our  supplies  direct  from  the 
markets  of  Napa.  The  persons  appointed  to  fill  up  the  lists 
sent  from  the  different  vessels  fulfilled  their  office  in  a very 
satisfactory  manner.  In  few  instances  was  more  than  half  the 
amount  supplied,  which  had  been  called  for,  and  at  last,  when 
a mess  needed  a dozen  fowls  and  a hundred  eggs,  it  was  neces- 
sary to  demand  50  of  the  one,  and  500  of  the  other.  The  ob- 
ject of  this  was  to  keep  up  the  appearance  of  poverty,  though 
at  the  same  time  the  public  markets,  open  to  the  natives, 
abounded  in  every  thing  which  we  stood  in  need  of.  Many 
persons — both  officers  and  men — went  ashore  repeatedly,  and 
endeavored  to  make  purchases,  but  they  were  successful  in  very 
few  instances.  They  were  dogged  by  spies,  whose  appearance 
sufficed  to  clear  the  market  in  a few  minutes.  The  natives 
fled  precipitately  in  all  directions,  leaving  their  stands  of 
fruit,  vegetables,  pottery  and  other  articles  of  sale  or  barter, 
entirely  unprotected,  and  the  market-square  which,  when  we 
first  caught  sight  of  it,  was  crowded  with  hundreds  of  busy 
buyers  and  sellers,  was  left  vacant  and  desolate.  The  same 
course  was  followed  in  all  parts  of  the  town.  Shops  were 
closed,  streets  deserted,  and  though  we  sometimes  endeavored 
to  steal  a march  upon  the  inhabitants  by  darting  suddenly 
into  a private  dwelling,  we  rarely  succeeded  in  finding  any 
one  within.  Yet,  whenever,  by  chance,  we  met  with  them 
when  no  spies  were  visible,  they  showed  an  evident  good-will 
towards  us,  and  a desire  to  cultivate  a familiar  intercourse. 
At  such  times  they  thankfully  accepted  money  or  presents, 
which  they  steadfastly  refused,  when  any  agent  of  the  Govern* 


450 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


ment  was  near.  On  onr  tours  of  exploration,  we  generally 
carried  with  us  a quantity  of  ship’s  biscuit,  which  the  inhabi- 
tants of  tjie  villages  took  very  eagerly,  seeming  to  consider  it 
a great  delicacy. 

During  our  first  visit,  the  Commodore  applied  to  the  au- 
thorities to  lease  liim  a house  on  shore  for  a short  time,  that 
the  daguerreotype  and  telegraphic  apparatus  might  be  put  up 
and  tested.  They  designated  the  little  temple  near  the  village 
of  Tumai,  two  miles  north  of  Napa,  which  had  been  given  to 
Capts.  Maxwell  and  Hall,  as  a hospital  for  their  seamen. 
There  is  a correct  sketch  of  it  in  Hall’s  work.  Messrs.  Brown 
and  Draper,  the  artists,  went  ashore  with  their  assistants,  and 
remained  there  three  weeks.  They  were  daily  visited  by  num- 
bers of  the  better  class  of  natives,  who  watched  their  operations 
with  the  greatest  curiosity.  They  at  once  comprehended  the 
properties  of  the  daguerreotype,  and  willingly  sat  for  their 
portraits.  They  understood  the  necessity  of  remaining  per- 
fectly quiet,  and  were  as  rigid  as  statues,  not  venturing  to 
move  an  eyelid.  When  the  impression  was  good,  nothing 
could  exceed  their  wonder  and  delight.  The  excessive  moist- 
ure in  the  air  of  Loo-Choo,  and  the  absence  of  any  fitting  lo- 
cation for  the  instruments,  operated  unfavorably  upon  the 
plates,  and  not  more  than  twenty  good  pictures  were  procured. 
These,  however,  are  of  much  value,  as  giving  perfect  represen- 
tations of  the  features  and  costumes  of  the  Loo-Chooans. 
The  telegraphic  apparatus  worked  admirably,  and  though  the 
natives  could  only  partially  comprehend  its  character,  they  re- 
garded it  with  a kind  of  superstitious  awe. 

Considering  the  advantages  which  the  island  of  Loo-Choo 
offered  as  a temporary  naval  station,  and  rendezvous  for  the 


EASTERN  DIPLOMACY  AGAIN. 


451 


squadron — its  proximity  to  Japan ; its  temperate  and  healthy 
chmate ; its  secure  harbor,  and  its  remoteness  from  the  jealous 
watchfulness  of  rival  nations — Commodore  Perry  made  the 
following  demands  of  the  Regent : 1st,  that  the  Government 
should  lease  him  a building  suitable  for  a coal  depot ; 2d,  that 
the  markets  of  Napa  should  be  throwm  open  to  us,  and  the  na- 
tives be  allowed  to  deal  directly  with  us,  without  the  tedious 
and  unsatisfactory  agency  of  the  official  pur\  eyors ; 3d,  that 
the  system  of  espionage  to  which  we  had  been  subjected, 
should  be  relinquished  in  future  ; and  4th,  that  the  Government 
should  make  a collection  of  the  articles  manufactured  in  the 
island,  in  order  that  we  might  have  an  opportunity  of  purchas- 
ing specimens.  It  was  represented,  in  support  of  these  de- 
mands, that  two  months  of  intercourse,  during  which  they  had 
no  single  cause  of  complaint  against  any  person  belonging  to 
the  squadron,  should  be  sufficient  to  convince  them  of  our 
friendly  disposition  toward  them ; that  in  allow  ing  us  to  pur- 
chase the  commodities  which  their  people  offered  for  sale,  we 
conferred  a direct  benefit  upon  them  ; that  w^e  had  explored 
their  island,  seen  its  abundant  resources,  and  knew  that  they 
would  be  enriched,  not  impoverished,  by  the  supplies  w'hich 
they  furnished  us;  and  lastly,  that  both  as  friends  to  the 
Loo-Chooans,  and  as  the  representatives  of  a great  nation,  the 
employment  of  spies  to  watch  our  motions  was  an  indignity  to 
wdiich  we  could  no  longer  submit. 

The  reply  of  the  Regent  was  a good  illustration  of  the  in- 
sincere, evasive  diplomacy  of  P^astern  nations.  It  granted 
nothing  and  denied  nothing.  With  regard  to  the  coal  depot, 
it  was  suggested  that  the  people  would  steal  the  coal  in  case 
it  was  deposited  there ; that  typhoons  might  blow  down  the 


152 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN 


building;  that  there  was  no  part  of  the  harbor  where  coal 
could  be  landed,  &c.  As  for  the  markets,  they  had  never  pre- 
vented us  from  going  there  to  purchase,  but  the  people  feared 
and  they  fled  away  because  they  were  afraid.  The  persons 
who  followed  us  were  not  spies,  but  officers  appointed  to  watch 
over,  protect  and  assist  us.  If  we  did  not  desire  them  they 
would  be  released  from  their  service.  The  reply  wound  up  as 
usual,  by  a declaration  of  the  smallness  and  poverty  of  the 
island.  The  Commodore  however  took  a blunt,  straight  for- 
ward course  which  obliged  them  to  give  a decisive  answer,  and 
as  in  the  case  of  the  J apanese,  he  gained  his  point.  His  diplo- 
macy, no  doubt,  seemed  somewhat  arbitrary  in  both  cases,  bul 
where  dissimulation  and  evasion  form  the  web  of  a policy,  as 
with  these  nations,  there  is  no  course  so  effective  as  plain  com- 
mon sense,  backed  up  by  a good  reserve  of  physical  force. 

A number  of  us  went  ashore  the  day  after  the  concessions 
were  made,  in  order  to  test  their  good  faith.  We  entered  Napa, 
and  set  out  for  the  market-place,  keeping  a good  watch  to  see 
whether  any  spies  were  lurking  about.  Most  of  the  shops  were 
shut  as  usual,  but  we  found  the  market  crowded,  and  a brisk 
trade  going  on  in  vegetables,  cheese,  pork,  earthenware,  paper, 
plain  cotton  goods,  and  the  other  articles  in  common  use 
among  the  natives.  At  flrst,  our  appearance  created  no  dis- 
turbance, but  we  had  scarcely  reached  the  middle  of  the  square, 
when  the  crowd  began  to  scatter  as  if  a bomb -shell  had  fallen 
among  them.  The  superannuated  old  women  who  could  not 
get  out  of  the  way,  crouched  behind  their  umbrellas,  and  if  we 
approached  them,  turned  their  heads  aside  or  stuck  them  under 
their  arms,  that  they  might  not  see  us.  Except  by  them,  and 
a few  men  of  the  lowest  class,  the  place  was  soon  deserted 


BUILDING  A COAL  DEPOT. 


453 


We  looked  in  all  directions  for  the  source  of  this  dispersion, 
and  at  last  caught  a glimpse  of  the  head  of  a spy,  peeping 
cautiously  around  a corner.  We  instantly  gave  chase,  but  he 
escaped  us.  Wherever  we  went,  we  saw  them  dodging  us  in  the 
distance,  and  if  we  turned  on  our  steps  and  followed  them,  they 
took  to  their  heels.  But  there  was  one — an  ill-favored,  one- 
eyed  gentleman  in  a robe  of  yellow  grass-cloth — who  persisted 
in  keeping  close  to  us.  At  last  a spirited  midshipman  started 
in  chase  of  him.  Away  they  raced  through  the  poi  k market, 
the  people  scattering  on  both  sides  before  them,  yet  looking  on 
with  evident  amusement.  The  one-eyed  gentleman  spread  his 
robes  on  the  wind,  but  the  midshipman  gained  on  him,  and 
finally  grasping  him  by  the  back  of  the  neck,  gave  him  a 
shaking  that  made  his  remaining  eye  quiver  in  its  socket.  He 
did  not  return,  and  we  had  the  satisfaction  of  purchasing  some 
cucumbers  in  the  market — which  was  at  least  a beginning  of 
trade. 

The  site  for  a coal  depot  was  at  once  selected,  the  dimen- 
sions given,  and  before  we  left,  a company  of  Loo-Choo  carpen- 
ters were  on  the  ground,  hewing  the  timbers  which  were  to 
form  the  frame  of  the  building.  It  was  located  in  the  creek 
I of  Tumai,  the  most  convenient  place  for  landing,  and  near  the 

' little  temple,  which  was  at  that  time  occupied  by  an  officer  and 

( two  or  three  men  from  the  storeship  Supply.  Tlie  sloop-of- 

j war  Plymouth  was  ordered  to  remain  at  Napa,  until  relieved 

j by  the  Vandalia,  so  that  the  entering  w'edge  we  drove  into 
I Loo-Choo  exclusiveness,  which  had  remained  intact  up  to  the 
time  of  our  arrival,  will  continue  to  widen  the  breach,  and 
effect  a permanent  opening  for  intercourse  with  the  rest  of 
mankind. 


154 


INDIA,  CHINA,  iVD  JAPAN. 


The  “ Great  Exhibition  ” of  Loo-Choo  Industry  came  off  on 
the  morning  we  left  Napa  for  Hong  Kong.  It  took  place  in 
the  cung-qua^  a government  building  of  the  town,  under  the 
auspices  of  the  Mayor  and  a number  of  civil  officers.  As  it 
was  probably  the  first  attempt  at  such  a display  ever  made  in 
the  Island,  it  was  got  up  in  creditable  style.  The  articles  con 
sisted  of  Loo-Choo  cotton  and  grass-cloths,  in  pieces  and  made 
into  garments ; Japanese  silks;  brass  hair-pins ; straw  sandals; 
fans ; tobacco  pipes  and  pouches,  of  various  kinds ; chow  chow, 
or  refreshment  boxes;  paper,  of  different  colors;  earthen 
pots,  pans  and  vases,  some  of  them  neatly  glazed,  and  a great 
variety  of  black  and  scarlet  lacquered  ware.  The  fair  was  at- 
tended by  all  of  the  officers  who  could  be  spared  from  the 
vessels,  and  as  they  were  all  anxious  to  procure  some  souvenir 
of  the  Island,  the  sales  were  brisk  and  rapid,  and  most  of  the 
articles  went  off  at  a premium.  We  computed  that  there  were 
at  least  a hundred  dollars  spent  on  the  occasion.  The  steamers 
were  under  sailing  orders,  and  the  activity  that  prevailed  on 
our  part  seemed  to  puzzle  and  bewilder  the  deliberate  and  im- 
passive Loo-Chooans.  Such  avidity  to  purchase,  such  apparent 
recklessness  of  expenditure,  were  quite  beyond  their  compre 
hension.  They  lost  “ the  run  ” of  us,  and  looked  on  in  help- 
less amazement,  trusting  to  Fate  for  the  final  balance  to  show 
a preponderance  in  their  favor. 

Thus,  in  addition  to  the  establishment  of  friendly  inter- 
course with  Japan,  Commodore  Perry  has  opened  Loo-Choo, 
its  most  important  dependency.  At  the  same  time,  by  his 
purchase  of  the  tract  of  land  best  adapted  for  a coal  depot,  on 
Port  Lloyd,  in  the  Bonin  Islands,  he  has  secured  to  the  United 
States  the  most  available  station  in  the  Western  Pacific  for  a 


ENTERING  PORT  LLOYD. 


455 


line  of  steamers  between  China  and  California.  Honolulu  and 
Port  Lloyd  are  the  natural  stopping-places  on  the  route  be- 
tween San  Francisco  and  Shanghai.  For  the  first,  coal  may 
be  transported  from  Oregon  and  Vancouver’s  Island ; for  the 
second,  from  tlie  Japanese  island  of  Kiusiu,  less  than  five 
hundred  miles  distant.  Loo-Choo  lies  too  far  south  for  the 
route  to  Shanghai,  but  that  to  Hong  Kong  passes  near  it.  Its 
commerce  is  tootrifling  to  be  an  object  of  consideration;  but 
as  a naval  station  or  a port  for  supplies,  it  has  many  things  to 
recommend  it,  and  the  step  which  has  been  made  toward  bring- 
ing it  into  the  list  of  lands  which  are  open  to  intercourse  with 
the  civilized  world,  deserves  to  be  recorded. 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 


NAVAL  LIFE. 


Return  to  Hong  Kong — End  of  the  Cruise — Experience  of  Naval  Life — My  Duties  on 
Board — “General  Quarters  ” — Our  Crew — Decline  of  Naval  Discipline — False  System 
of  Promotion — Delays — What  is  Needed — Harmony  of  Government  at  Sea — The 
Abolition  of  Corporeal  Punishment — Want  of  an  Efficient  Substitute — Government 
on  Sea  and  Land — Mr.  Kennedy’s  Proposal  for  Registered  Seamen — Effect  of  Long 
Cruises — Need  of  Small  Vessels  in  Chinese  Waters. 


We  sailed  from  Loo-Choo  on  the  1st  of  August,  but  were 
delayed  by  strong  head-winds,  until  we  had  doubled  the  south- 
ern end  of  the  island  of  Formosa,  and  entered  the  China  Sea. 
On  the  second  day  out  from  Napa  we  saw  some  of  the  Madjico- 
sima  Islands,  which  lie  between  Formosa  and  the  Loo-Choo 
group,  and  at  dusk  the  same  evening  met  the  sloop-of-war 
Vandalia^  on  her  way  to  join  the  squadron.  Salutes  were  ex- 
changed, Capt.  Pope  reported  himself  to  the  Commodore,  re- 
ceived his  orders,  and  the  ve.^sels  lost  each  other  again  in  the 
darkness.  The  rest  of  the  vojage  was  without  incident.  By 
taking  a more  southern  course  than  usual  across  the  China 
Sea,  we  missed  encountering  the  steam-frigate  Powhatan^ 
which  sailed  from  Hong  Kong  on  the  6th,  the  day  previous  to 


MY  DUTIES  ON  BOARD. 


457 


our  arrival  tli-ere.  At  sunset  on  the  7th,  I saw  again  the  bleak 
hills  and  the  long  semi-European  town  which  I had  left  in 
March  previous,  and  when  the  anchor  dropped  in  the  harbor, 
my  last  cruise  on  a Government  vessel  was  at  an  end. 

I shall  always  look  back  upon  my  short  experience  of  naval 
life  as  one  of  the  most  agreeable  and  interesting  episodes  of  mj 
travels.  Apart  from  the  rare  opportunity  which  it  afforded 
me  of  visiting  and  exploring  remote  and  unfrequented  portions 
of  the  earth,  it  has  enabled  me  to  gain  some  insight  into  the 
nature  and  operations  of  a service,  which,  to  a commercial  na- 
tion, like  our  own,  must  ever  be  the  most  important  arm  of 
protection  and  defence.  I cannot  avoid  making  a few  remarks 
upon  our  naval  system  before  taking  a final  leave  of  it — and 
such  observations  as  I make,  may  not  be  inappropriately  offered 
at  present,  when  our  Government,  after  a long  and  culpable 
neglect  of  the  Navy,  seems  to  be  at  last  slowly  awaking  to  the 
necessity  of  reorganizing  it. 

Although  my  rank  of  acting  Master’s  Mate  rendered  me 
liable  to  be  called  upon  at  any  time  to  discharge  the  duties 
usually  assigned  it,  it  imposed  upon  me  no  higher  obligation  in 
reality,  than  that  of  conforming  in  all  respects  to  the  etiquette 
of  the  service.  I was  attached  to  the  corps  of  artists,  who  held 
the  same  rank,  and  were  especially  subject  to  the  Commodore’s 
orders ; and  when  not  employed  on  explorations — a branch  of 
duty  of  which  I was  never  weary — occupied  myself  with  mak- 
ing sketches  of  birds,  flowers,  fish  and  landscapes,  and  with 
keeping  a faithful  record  of  our  experiences.  The  fact  that  I 
messed  on  the  orlop  deck,  went  up  and  down  the  port  ladders, 
and  smoked  forward  of  the  main  shaft,  did  not  exclude  me 

from  the  hospitalities  of  the  wari%room  and  the  commanders’ 

20 


168 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


oabins.  By  Commodore  Perry  and  Capt.  Bucbanau.  especially 
I was  treated  with  unvarying  kindness. 

The  only  ship’s  duty  I was  called  upon  to  perform,  besides 
taking  charge  of  a boat  now  and  then,  and  keeping  a two-hour 
watch  in  Japan,  was  to  appear  in  my  station  at  “general  quar- 
ters,” which  were  beaten  quite  frequently  previous  to  our  arri- 
val in  the  Bay  of  Yedo.  “ General  quarters,”  I should  state 
for  the  information  of  the  landsman,  is  a combination  of  a re- 
view and  a sham  fight.  Every  one  of  the  ship’s  company 
has  his  place  assigned  to  him,  and  at  the  well-known  rappel, 
and  fife-call,  officers,  seamen,  mariners  and  boys  fall  into  their 
proper  places,  the  rolls  are  called,  and  the  formalities  of  a na- 
val engagement  are  practised.  The  guns  are  run  in,  loaded, 
and  run  out  and  fired ; the  seamen,  armed  with  cutlasses  and 
boarding  pikes,  trot  fore  and  aft,  crowding  the  rail  on  alternate 
bows  and  quarters,  to  repel  imaginary  boarders ; the  marines, 
behind  them,  load  and  discharge  noiseless  volleys  in  rapid  suc- 
cession ; the  bell  gives  the  signal  of  fire,  for  the  ship  has  been 
ignited  by  an  intangible  hot  shot ; the  pumps  are  rigged,  and  by 
great  exertions  the  invisible  flames  are  extinguished — and,  last 
of  all,  the  hostile  flag  strikes,  and  the  band  plays  “ Yankee 
Doodle”  in  token  of  victory.  My  station  was  at  first  on  the 
orlop  deck,  over  the  magazine,  to  superintend  the  passing  up  of 
immaterial  powder-cans,  but  I was  afterwards  transferred  to  the 
quarter-deck,  where  I spent  the  hour  in  watching  the  perform- 
ance of  our  great  pivot-gun.  There  was  also  target  practice, 
in  which  the  officers  usually  joined,  and  I was  struck  with  the 
large  proportion  of  good  shots  among  the  ship’s  conr  pany. 

Although  I was  not  often  brought  into  direct  contact  witl: 
the  crew,  I soon  made  acquaintance  with  them,  and  learned  tc 


FALSE  SYSTEM  OF  PROMOTION. 


469 


understand  and  appreciate  the  blunt,  hearty,  generous  sailor 
character.  There  is  a great  variety  of  elements  in  every  crew, 
but  the  good  and  bad  are  more  readily  known  than  in  any  so- 
ciety on  shore.  Dissimulation  is  soon  detected  on  shipboard ; 
as  on  the  battle-field,  no  man  can  purchase  a substitute  or  shift 
nis  duty  upon  other  shoulders  than  his  own.  Whatever  may  be 
the  faults  of  seamen,  they  are,  as  a class,  honest,  open-hearted 
and  courageous — full  of  firm  masculine  fibre  and  a healthy 
cheerfulness — and  I confess  to  a warm  attachment  for  them. 

It  is  a serious  fact,  felt  even  more  keenly  by  those  in  the 
service  than  by  the  public  at  large,  that  the  efficiency  of  our  Navy 
has  been  of  late  years  greatly  impaired,  and  that  it  is  no  longer 
animated  by  the  same  prompt,  active,  energetic  spirit,  which 
drew  into  its  ranks  some  of  the  boldest  and  bravest  characters 
which  adorn  our  history.  The  nature  of  the  service  is  such  as 
to  stimulate  and  keep  alive  the  ambition  of  those  enlisted  in 
it;  and  we  must  therefore  look  to  the  legislation  which  con- 
trols it,  for  the  cause  of  this  change.  The  two  prominent  evils 
under  which  the  Navy  now  labors  are,  a relaxation  of  disci- 
pline among  the  men,  and  a system  which,  among  the  officers, 
makes  promotion  dependent  entirely  upon  seniority,  and,  by 
rendering  null  any  amount  of  brilliant  service,  discourages  all 
manly  emulation. 

As  there  has  hitherto  been  no  retired  list,  the  officers  who 
are  incapacitated  by  age  or  disease,  or  any  other  cause,  from 
active  service,  hang  as  a dead  weight  upon  the  chances  of  all 
those  whose  term  of  service  is  less  than  theirs.  In  time  of 
peace,  their  ranks  are  continually  accumulating,  so  that  the 
number  allotted  to  each  grade  having  once  been  filled  up,  pro- 
motions after  that  can  only  take  place  to  fill  the  vacancies 


460 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


caused  by  death.  The  younger  officer,  therefore,  grows  old  in  an 
inferior  rank,  and  by  the  time  he  is  invested  with  a command, 
having  passed  the  best  years  of  his  life  in  a subordinate  posi- 
tion, is  naturally  timid  and  distrustful  of  himself  under  re- 
sponsibilities which  he  would  have  borne  lightly,  if  bestowed 
before  his  youthful  energy  and  ambition  were  wholly  deadened. 
This  very  energy  and  ambition  of  youth  constitutes  the  stamina 
of  naval  and  military  life,  and  that  service  will  inevitably  de- 
cay, which  does  not  extend  to  it  at  least  a partial  encourage- 
ment. 

Under  the  system  at  present  pursued  by  the  Government, 
our  Navy  is  gradually  filling  up  with  Passed  Midshipmen  of 
thirty,  and  Lieutenants  of  forty-five,  while  an  officer  whose  hair 
is  not  entirely  gray  (if  indeed  he  has  any  left  to  show),  before 
attaining  the  rank  of  Post  Captain,  may  consider  himself 
especially  fortunate.  There  is  a weight  of  invalided,  indolent, 
or  superannuated  material  above  him,  which  nothing  but  the 
slow  process  of  death  can  remove.  No  deed  of  daring,  no  bold 
achievement,  no  amount  of  hazardous  and  arduous  duty,  involv- 
ing years  of  absence  from  all  the  amenities  of  civilized  life,  will 
advance  him  one  step  nearer  the  post,  which  terminates  the 
vista  of  his  ambition.  No  one  complained  of  the  efficiency  of 
the  Navy  when  Perry,  Decatur  and  Lawrence  were  Captains, 
at  an  age  when  no  Passed  Midshipman  is  now  rash  enough  to 
dream  of  a Lieutenant’s  commission.  Heroes  are  made  early ; 
and  the  English  and  French  Governments  acknowledge  the  fact 
by  promoting  for  meritorious  conduct,  as  well  as  for  length  of 
days.  In  the  French  Navy,  I believe,  one  third  of  the  promo- 
tions are  based  on  this  ground. 

A retired  list,  such  as  has  recently  been  provided  for  by  an 


HARMONY  OF  GOVERNMENT  AT  SEA. 


461 


act  of  Congress,  will  partly  remedy  the  evil,  but  it  is  not 
sufficient.  A man  who  has  rendered  special  and  signal  ser- 
vice to  his  country  deserves  to  be  rewarded.  This  claim, 
which  is  partially  recognized  in  our  Army,  ought  to  have  equal 
weight  in  the  Navy.  Not  that  I believe  that  in  cases  where 
the  honor  of  the  country  is  at  stake,  our  naval  officers  would 
be  found  wanting  in  courage  and  spirit,  but  the  prospect  of  re- 
ward would  keep  alive  an  active  pride  and  emulation,  which 
would  manifest  itself  at  all  times,  and  on  all  occasions.  Our 
most  promising  officers  would  not  then  be  driven  to  resign  as 
they  are  now  by  the  disheartening  prospect  of  twenty  or  thirty 
years  of  subordinate  rank,  which  no  exertion  of  theirs  can  ren- 
der more  brief. 

It  is  impossible  that  such  a state  of  things  should  not  tell 
upon  the  discipline  of  the  ship,  even  where  there  are  no  more 
direct  influences  at  work.  The  relations  in  which  all,  officers 
and  men,  stand  to  each  other,  on  board  of  a man-of-war,  are  so 
intricate  and  so  nicely  adjusted,  that  a derangement  in  any 
quarter  is  felt  throughout  the  whole  machine.  When  it  ope- 
rates in  perfect  harmony,  no  pyramid  could  be  more  symmetri-  • 
cal.  But  if  the  Captain,  or  cap-stone  press  uncomfortably 
hard  on  the  layer  beneath  him,  the  pressure  makes  itself  felt 
through  all  the  courses  that  follow,  down  to  the  seamen — the 
broad  base  on  which  all  rest.  A well-appointed  frigate, 
where  discipline  is  encouraged  by  duty,  and  authority  tem- 
pered by  justice,  is  to  me  the  crowning  miracle  of  social  go- 
vernment. 

There  is  at  present  no  effective  system  of  punishment  foi 
minor  offences  on  board  our  men-of-war.  Congress,  by  taking 
away  the  only  recognized  penalty,  that  of  corporeal  pimish- 


462 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


ment  without  fixing  any  legal  substitute  has  thrown  upon 
the  officers  the  responsibility  of  inventing  new  forms  of 
punishment,  which  shall  correct  the  faults  of  the  offender 
without  withdrawing  him  from  active  duty,  or  rendering 
the  officer  himself  liable  to  censure,  on  the  ground  of  in- 
human or  extraordinary  measures.  No  such  punishment  has 
yet  been  discovered.  That  which  was  recommended  at  the 
time  flogging  was  abolished — solitary  confinement,  on  bread 
and  water — is  no  punishment  at  all  to  the  vicious  or  re- 
fractory seaman,  who  sees  in  it  an  excellent  opportunity  of 
skulking  from  work ; while  the  other  plans  in  force — such  as 
carrying  a sixty-eight  pound  shot,  standing  lashed  fast  in  one 
position  for  a certain  number  of  hours,  &c.,  are  looked  upon 
as  a kind  of  slow  torture,  and  in  many  cases  tend  to  exasperate 
still  further  a nature  already  vicious.  Either  of  these  methods 
punishes  the  good  as  well  as  the  bad,  by  removing  the  offender 
from  his  work,  which  thus  falls  upon  the  honest  and  faithful  sea- 
men. The  good  men  who  are  never  punished,  are  rewarded  for 
their  fidelity  by  being  obliged  to  perform  more  than  their  share 
• of  the  labor,  and  are  gradually  being  driven  out  of  the  service. 
I have  heard  it  proposed  that  the  idle  and  insubordinate  shall 
be  mulcted  in  their  wages,  and  the  sums  thus  deducted  divided 
among  the  others.  I am  correct  in  my  estimate  of  the  sailor 
character,  when  I say  that  very  few  of  them  would  accept  such 
a reward.  In  fact,  where  a man  really  guilty  has  been  pun- 
ished by  the  loss  of  his  wages  for  a number  of  months  the  en- 
tire crew  has  united  to  repay  him  the  loss.  Few  sailors  are 
destitute  of  a sense  of  honor,  which  would  lead  them  to  spuin 
the  taking  of  a shipmate’s  wages,  no  matter  how  culpable  that 
shipmate  might  be. 


MISTAKEN  PHILANTHROPY. 


463 


No  deductions  can  be  drawn  from  the  experience  of  society 
on  shore  which  would  be  of  much  advantage  in  the  government 
of  a ship  on  the  open  ocean,  cut  off  from  the  world,  and  a world 
in  itself,  but  in  many  respects  of  a very  different  order  from  that 
with  which  landsmen  are  acquainted.  Every  member  of  this 
world  has  his  appointed  station  and  his  regular  daily  duties. 
He  is  subject  to  inexorable  laws,  and  obedience  to  those  laws 
must  be  enforced  at  every  hazard  Without  entire  and  abso- 
lute subordination  a navy  cannot  exist.  Its  character  is  neces- 
sarily despotic,  in  fact,  all  sea  life  is  so,  and  must  always  be 
BO.  Its  government  demands  the  exercise  of  the  strictest  jus- 
tice, and  oi  justice  to  all.  In  its  forms  of  punishment,  there- 
fore, that  which  most  effectually  preserves  discipline,  which 
corrects  the  guilty  without  throwing  an  additional  burden  on  the 
good,  is  the  most  expedient. 

Among  the  seamen  who  compose  the  crews  of  our  national 
vessels,  there  is  every  variety  of  character.  Men  as  brave, 
manly  and  generous  as  any  class  can  afford,  there  are;  in 
most  cases,  no  doubt,  the  major  part  of  the  crew  are  reputable 
in  their  conduct ; but  there  is  always — at  least,  under  the  pre- 
sent system — a leaven  of  depravity  and  sullen,  dogged  wicked- 
ness, which  will  bend  to  nothing  but  material  force.  I have 
seen  so  frequently  the  inefficiency  of  the  other  methods  of  pun- 
ishment employed,  and  have  heard,  from  the  men  themselves, 
such  honest  desire  for  the  restoration  of  the  old  regime^  that  1 
cannot  avoid  the  conclusion  that  the  entire  abolition  of  cor- 
poreal punishment  in  the  Navy,  without  authorizing  some 
effective  substitute,  was  one  of  those  mistaken  acts  of  philan- 
thropy which  are  founded  on  abstract  ideas  of  humanity  rather 
than  a practical  knowledge  of  human  nature.  It  has  more 


464 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


than  once  happened,  on  board  our  vessels,  that  the  seamen,  in 
defiance  of  authority,  have  seized  below  decks  and  soundly 
flogged  the  idle  and  vicious,  whom  all  other  punishments  had 
failed  to  intimidate. 

Mr.  Kennedy,  Ex-Secretary  of  the  blavy,  in  one  of  his  An- 
nual Reports,  recommends  a course  which  will  partly  remedy 
the  evil  by  drawing  into  the  service  a better  class  of  men,  and 
thereby  Tendering  punishments  of  all  kinds  less  frequent.  1 
allude  to  his  proposal  for  creating  a class  of  “ registered 
seamen,”  who  shall  be  permanently  attached  to  the  Navy,  and 
receive  an  increased  rate  of  pay  with  every  five  years  of  their 
service.  The  high  wages  now  paid  to  sailors  in  the  mer- 
chant service  will  soon  render  the  adoption  of  some  such  plan 
necessary,  in  order  to  procure  seamen  at  all — notwithstanding 
the  superior  comforts  which  a man-of-war  affords,  and  that 
representative  national  character  which  is  so  gratifying  to  the 
pride  of  an  American  tar.  There  are  many  noble  fellows 
among  our  seamen,  and  the  adoption  of  a measure  like  Mr. 
Kennedy’s,  which  would  retain  them  in  the  service  and 
identify  them  with  its  achievements,  would  go  far  toward 
restoring  that  energy  and  morale  which  once  made  our  crews 
the  finest  in  the  world.  I am  too  proud  to  admit  that  they 
are  not  so  still ; but  every  year  makes  the  difference  between 
the  slackening  discipline  of  our  vessels,  and  the  perfect  and 
thorough  subordination  witnessed  in  the  English  Navy,  more 
painfully  perceptible. 

While  upon  this  theme  I must  allude  to  another  circum- 
stance which  has  an  injurious  operation — at  least  upon  the 
vessels  attached  to  the  East  India  station,  and  I have  no  doubt 
the  Pacific  and  African  stations  as  well.  I allude  to  the 


SMALL  STEAMERS  NEEDED. 


465 


leDgth  of  the  cruise.  Three  years  in  those  climates,  hot  and 
unhealthy  as  they  are,  is  trying  to  any  constitution,  -while  from 
the  absence  of  all  that  can  excite  or  amuse,  the  men  gradually 
become  spiritless  and  depressed.  So  far  removed  from  home, 
exposed  to  gross  sensual  temptations,  where  every  indulgence 
is  followed  by  a terrific  penalty,  the  length  of  the  cruise  tends 
inevitably  to  demoralize  the  crew.  An  active  cruise  of  two 
years  would  accomplish  far  more  than  an  idle  one  of  three. 

What  is  needed  for  the  East  India  station  is  not  a leviatban 
war-steamer  like  the  Susquehanna,  which  cannot  go  within 
thirty  miles  of  Ning-po  and  Foo-chow-foo,  and  can  barely  man- 
age to  reach  Shanghai,  but  two  small  steamers,  drawing  not 
more  than  twelve  or  fourteen  feet  of  water.  When  Canton  was 
menaced,  we  could  with  difficulty  get  a store-ship  within  reach 
of  the  factories,  to  watch  over  the  interests  of  our  citizens.  If  a 
fleet  of  piratical  junks  was  hovering  about  the  Ladrone  Islands, 
and  one  of  our  big  vessels  attempted  to  follow,  they  were  off  at 
once  into  water  too  shallow  for  us.  The  small  English  steam* 
ers  Hermes  and  Styx  did  more  in  this  way  for  the  security  of 
commerce,  than  all  other  men-of-war  on  the  coast  colle<^tively. 

20* 


CHAPTER  XXXYIII. 

HONG-KON  G S OCIETY  IN  CHINA. 


Impressions  of  Hong-Kong — A Man  Drowned  at  Midnight — Hong-Kong  from  the 
Water — The  town  of  Victoria — ^The  Island  of  Hong-Kong — The  Hong-Koi  g Fever- 
Hospitality  of  Foreign  Residents  in  China— Their  Princely  Style  of  Living— Rigid 
Social  Etiquette — Balls — Tropical  Privileges — The  Anglo-Saxon  Abroad. 


My  first  impressions  of  Hong-Kong  were  not  very  favorable, 
but  I attributed  them  partly  to  the  gloomy  March  weather 
which  prevailed  during  my  stay.  After  the  genial  quiet  of 
Macao,  and  the  mellow  historic  light  which  plays  about  its  de- 
caying palaces,  the  thoroughly  modern  air  and  desolate  sur- 
roundings of  the  place  became  still  more  distasteful  to  me,  and 
an  unfortunate  association  which  I shall  never  be  able  wholly 
to  banish  from  memory,  increased  the  feeling  into  absolute  dis- 
like. 

On  the  second  evening  after  our  arrival  I went  ashore  wivh 
some  friends,  and  did  not  return  until  ten  o’clock.  My  cot 
was  not  yet  slung,  for  my  hammock-boy  was  one  of  the  crew 
of  the  Captain’s  boat  which  had  also  gone  ashore.  He  was  a 
strong,  dark-eyed,  lusty  fellow  named  John  Williams — one  of 
the  maintopmen,  who  are  generally  the  picked  men  of  the 
ship.  About  eleven  o’clock  Williams  made  his  appearance, 


A MAN  DROWNED  A1  MIDNIGHT- 


467 


with  my  cot,  which  he  slung  in  its  accustomed  place ; hut  in« 
stead  of  silently  going  forward  again,  as  was  his  wont,  he  turn- 
ed suddenly  and  asked  me  whether  I thought  it  possible  that 
he  could  get  a release  from  the  service.  His  mother,  he  said, 
had  died,  and  some  property  had  fallen  to  him  which  he  wished 
to  secure.  I advised  him  to  consult  with  some  of  the  ofl&cers, 
who  were  better  acquainted  with  the  customs  of  the  service. 
He  seemed  to  labor  under  a singular  depression  of  spirit,  and 
after  lingering  for  some  time  in  silence,  as  if  reluctant  to  turn 
away,  he  finally  said:  “Well,  sir,  it  is  the  last  cruise  I shall 
ever  make,” — and  left  me. 

My  cot  was  slung  in  a temporary  poop-cabin  on  deck,  which 
Commodore  Perry  had  ordered  to  be  erected  for  the  use  of  the 
artists.  I had  not  slept  more  than  two  hours,  when  my  sleep 
was  suddenly  broken  by  a cry — a wild,  gurgling,  despairing 
cry  which  still  rings  in  my  ears  whenever  I think  of  that  night. 
1 sprang  from  my  cot  and  listened.  There  was  a trampling  of 
feet  on  the  deck  outside,  a hurried  order,  “ cut  the  painter ! ” 
and  again  a bubbling  cry,  but  feebler,  under  the  stern.  I 
sprang  to  one  of  the  windows,  looked  out,  and  saw  a hand  beat- 
ing the  water  blindly  and  convulsively  in  the  eddy  of  the  rud- 
der. I was  about  to  spring  out  when  a coil  of  rope  fell  in  the 
water  and  the  hand  grasped  it.  A horrible  phosphorescent 
light  shone  around  the  body,  struggling  beneath  the  surface. 
Three  men  were  in  the  little  dingey  which  lay  under  the  stern, 
but  before  they  could  cut  the  painter,  the  hand  let  go  its  weak 
hold,  the  rope  slackened,  and  the  body  sank.  The  men  had  no 
oars,  but  half  drifting  with  the  tide,  half  paddling  with  their 
hands,  they  fioated  over  it.  Just  beyond — just  out  of  their 
reach — a head  rose  an  instant  to  the  surface  once  more,  mak- 


468 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


ing  a ring  of  ghastly  light.  There  was  one  bubble,  and  it  sanL 
forever,  the  phosphorescent  gleam  sinking  slowly  with  it,  until 
nothing  more  was  seen. 

• The  drowned  man  was  no  other  than  John  Williams.  He 
had  the  mid-watch,  and  his  station  was  on  the  forward  guard 
of  the  star-board  paddle-box.  It  was  conjectured  that  he  had 
sat  down  upon  a bucket  to  rest,  near  the  edge  of  the  guard,  and 
had  either  fallen  asleep  and  reeled  over,  or  lost  his  balance  b^ 
the  tilting  of  the  bucket.  One  of  the  cutters  was  moored  be- 
side the  paddle-box,  and  he  probably  struck  upon  it  and  dis- 
abled himself,  as  he  was  known  to  be  an  excellent  swimmer. 
Some  of  the  men  asserted  that  they  had  seen  a large  fish  dart 
past  just  before  he  let  go  his  hold  of  the  rope,  and  supposed 
that  he  had  been  carried  under  by  a shark.  His  body  was 
found  however  two  or  three  weeks  afterwards  unmutilated,  and 
was  placed  in  the  cemetery  at  Hong-Kong,  where  a tomb-stone 
was  erected  over  it  by  his  messmates.  I have  seen  death  in 
many  shapes,  but  there  was  an  awful  fatality  about  this  which 
shocked  me  profoundly.  Night  and  day  I heard  the  terrible 
drowning  cry,  until  I feared  that  my  ear  would  never  lose  the 
consciousness  of  it.  Nearly  a month  afterwards,  I again  visited 
Hong-Kong,  and  having  been  rowed  ashore  from  the  steamer, 
in  the  dusk  of  evening,  the  oars  struck  a phosphorescent  lustre 
from  the  water ; I grew  deathly  sick  at  the  image  which  those 
gleams  recalled. 

It  is,  therefore,  if  not  my  fault,  at  least  my  misfortune, 
that  I cannot  endorse  the  praises  of  Hong-Kong,  which  its 
residents  are  accustomed  to  bestow  upon  it.  Seen  from  the 
water,  the  town,  stretching  for  a mile  along  the  shore,  at  the 
foot  of  Victoria  Peak,  whose  granite  cliff  towers  eighteen  him- 


HONG-KONG  FROM  THE  WATER. 


469 


dred  feet  above,  bears  considerable  resemblance  to  Gibraltar 
The  Governor’s  mansion,  the  Bishop’s  Palace,  the  Church  and 
Barracks  occupy  conspicuous  positions,  and  the  houses  of  mer- 
chants and  government  officials,  scattered  along  the  steep  sides 
of  the  hill,  give  the  place  an  opulent  and  flourishing  air.  So 
far  from  being  disappointed  in  this  respect,  one  is  surprised  to 
find  that  ten  years  of  English  occupation  have  sufficed  to  civi- 
lize so  completely  a barren  Chinese  island. 

The  town  is  almost  entirely  made  up  of  the  long  street 
called  Victoria  Boad,  which  runs  parallel  to  the  shore.  It  is 
broad,  well  built  and  well  paved,  and  being  the  great  thorough- 
fare of  the  place,  lengthening  into  a military  road  which 
makes  the  circuit  of  the  island,  has  at  all  times  a busy  and  an- 
imated air.  The  streets  which  cross  it  strike  directly  up  the 
hill,  and  are  in  many  places  so  steep  that  it  has  been  found 
necessary  to  turn  them  into  flights  of  steps.  The  gray  granite 
of  which  the  island  is  composed  furnishes  excellent  material  for 
building  purposes,  and  is  extensively  employed  in  the  houses, 
streets  and  piers.  Large  quantities  of  it,  dressed  in  the  quar- 
ries by  Chinese  laborers,  are  shipped  to  San  Francisco- 
where  it  is  in  great  demand.  Several  entire  buildings  have 
been  sent  over  and  erected  in  that  city.  The  English  Church 
is  a large  Gothic  building,  without  any  pretensions  to  architec- 
tural beauty.  On  a natural  platform  above  it,  stands  the 
palace  of  Bishop  Smith — a long  mansion  in  the  Elizabethan 
style.  The  Governor’s  new  residence  was  in  the  course  of  con- 
struction, and  not  sufficiently  advanced  to  hint  at  its  char- 
acter. 

The  island  of  Hong-Kong  is  about  thirty  miles  in  circum- 
ference, and  consists  of  a desolate  cluster  of  mountains,  whicli 


470 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


offer  no  opportunity  of  cultivation.  Nearly  all  tlie  ftuit  and 
vegetables  consumed  in  the  town  come  from  Macao.  There  is 
a small  village,  inhabited  by  Chinese  fishermen,  on  the  south* 
ern  side,  and  a Military  Hospital  on  the  east,  looking  upon 
the  Lymoon  Passage,  which  opens  into  the  China  Sea ; but  the 
English  colony  is  concentrated  in  and  about  the  town  of  Vic- 
toria, which  is  built  on  the  northern  side,  facing  the  mainland. 
The  harbor  is  spacious,  with  a good  anchorage,  and  well  shel- 
tered, except  in  case  of  an  unusually  violent  typhoon.  From 
the  position  of  the  town,  it  is  cut  off  from  the  south-west  mon- 
soon in  summer,  while  the  vapors  collected  by  the  mountain 
contribute  to  produce  an  intense  moist  heat,  which  occasions 
violent  fever.  The  “ Hong-Kong  fever,”  as  it  is  called,  has 
been  described  by  some  facetious  traveller  as  combining  the 
worst  symptoms  of  cholera,  yellow  and  typhus  fevers,  with  other 
and  worse  features  of  its  own.  The  mortality  among  the 
troops  stationed  here  was  formerly  very  great,  but  it  has  been 
lessened  of  late  years  by  the  adoption  of  stringent  sanitary 
measures. 

For  amusements,  besides  riding,  boating,  yacht  regattas, 
&c.,  there  is  a club,  with  a library,  reading  and  billiard  rooms, 
and  a bowling-alley,  much  frequented  by  Americans.  The  so- 
ciety is  not  extensive,  but  intelligent  and  agreeable,  and  the 
same  lordly  hospitality,  with  which  I first  became  acquainted 
in  India,  prevails  not  only  here  but  throughout  all  the  foreign 
communities  in  China.  This  custom  originated  long  ago,  in 
the  isolation  to  which  the  foreign  merchant  was  condemned, 
and  the  infrequency  of  visitors  from  the  distant  world,  which 
he  had  temporarily  renounced.  Then  all  houses  were  open 
to  the  guest,  and  the  luxury  which  had  been  created  tc 


PRINCELY  STYLE  OF  LIVING 


471 


soften  the  gilded  exile,  was  placed  at  his  command.  The  es- 
tablishment of  steamship  lines,  the  building  of  hotels  and  other 
progressive  agencies,  have  somewhat  moderated  this  liberality, 
and  may  in  time  reduce  it  to  the  cautious  and  guarded  hos- 
pitality of  home ; but-  there  is  still  enough  of  the  old  genial 
spirit  left  to  make  a stranger  feel  satisfied  with  the  welcome 
he  receives. 

I doubt  if  there  be  another  class  of  men,  who  live  in  more 
luxurious  state  than  the  foreign  residents  in  China.  Their 
households  are  conducted  on  a princely  scale,  and  whatever 
can  be  had  in  the  way  of  furniture,  upholstery  or  domestic  ap- 
pliances of  any  sort,  to  promote  ease  and  comfort,  is  sure  to  be 
found  in  their  dwellings.  Their  tables  are  supplied  with  the 
choicest  which  the  country  can  afford,  and  a retinue  of  well- 
drilled  servants,  whose  only  business  it  is  to  study  their  habits, 
anticipate  all  their  wants.  All  the  management  of  the  house- 
hold is  in  the  hands  of  native  servants.  The  “ comprador  ” 
furnishes  the  necessary  supplies — for  which  he  generally  ob- 
tains a fat  commission — the  butler  regulates  the  internal 
economy ; and  every  inmate  has  one  or  more  personal  servants, 
who  have  charge  of  his  own  private  wants.  The  expense  of 
keeping  up  such  an  establishment  is  of  course  very  large ; but 
so  also  are  the  profits  of  a flourishing  commercial  house,  and 
this  easeful  and  luxurious  mode  of  life,  while  it  tends  to  pre- 
serve health  in  a climate  hostile  to  the  Northern  race,  furnishes 
a solace,  sensuous  though  it  be,  for  the  want  of  those  more  en- 
lightened recreations  which  a civilized  land  affords. 

These  little  communities,  nevertheless,  are  subject  to  iron 
laws  of  etiquette,  any  infraction  whereof,  either  purposely  oi 
through  ignorance,  makes  society  tremble  to  its  foundations.  A 


472 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN, 


custom  which  refers  particularly  to  strangers,  has  been  trans- 
planted thither  from  India,  and  is  now  in  full  force.  The  newly 
arrived,  unless  he  wish<?s  to  avoid  all  society,  must  go  the  rounds 
of  the  resident  families,  and  make  his  calls.  The  calls  are  re- 
turned, an  invitation  to  dinner  follows  in  due  course  of  time, 
and  every  thing  is  en  train  for  a footing  of  familiar  intercourse 
This  custom  seems  to  me  to  reverse  the  natural  course  of  so 
cial  ethics.  It  obliges  the  stranger  to  seek  his  welcome,  in- 
stead of  having  it  spontaneously  tendered  to  him.  The  resi- 
dents defend  the  practice,  on  the  ground  that  it  allows  a man 
to  choose  his  own  society — an  obvious  hull,  since  he  cannot 
know  who  are  congenial  to  him  until  he  has  met  them ; and  on 
the  other  hand,  the  opposite  course  would  allow  them  to  choose 
his  society  or  not,  as  they  preferred.  In  India,  among  the 
Company’s  servants,  the  rule  is  rigidly  enforced,  and  nothing 
creates  greater  scandal  than  a violation  of  it. 

There  are  private  halls  occasionally — public,  rarely,  if  ever 
— where  quadrilles,  and  waltzes,  and  polkas,  are  danced  with  as 
much  spirit  as  at  any  outside  the  Tropics ; hut  there  is  a 
considerate  departure  from  the  etiquette  of  the  North,  in  allow- 
ing the  gentlemen  to  appear,  on  such  occasions,  in  a white 
linen  jacket,  and  with  a simple  ribbon  in  place  of  a cravat. 
Nay,  if  so  minded,  he  may  even  throw  wide  his  collar,  and 
enjoy  a cool  throat.  This  barbarism — as  every  young  lady  of 
proper  taste  must  consider  it — I find  highly  commendable 
But  it  requires  a great  struggle  in  John  Bull  to  throw  down 
those  starched  barricades  which  flank  his  closely-rasped  chin 
and  protect  his  mutton-chop  whiskers.  In  Calcutta,  even  in 
the  dog-days,  nothing  less  than  a collar  rigid  as  plank,  and  a 
black  cloth  dress-coat,  is  tolerated.  Verily,  the  Saxon  clings 


THE  ANGLO-S*AXON  ABROAD. 


473 


to  his  idols  with  a pertinacity  which  we  cannot  sufficiently 
admire.  Make  a certain  costume  the  type  of  respectability 
with  him,  and  he  carries  the  idea  all  over  the  world.  If  bear- 
skins and  woollen  blankets  were  the  evening  costume  of  the 
West-End  or  Fifth- Avenue,  you  would  soon  find  him  com- 
placently sporting  them  on  the  Equator.  In  the  incessant 
heat  of  the  Tropics  he  drinks  his  heavy  sherry,  and  indulges 
in  his  brandy-and-water,  with  as  much  freedom  as  in  the  airs 
of  England,  and  if  not  cut  short  in  his  career  by  fever,  finally 
goes  home  with  a damaged  liver,  and  no  digestion  at  all.  On 
the  shores  of  Cathay,  he  keeps  up  the  hours  and  habits  of  the 
London  season ; - in  the  cinnamon  groves  of  Ceylon,  he  breathes 
the  atmosphere  of  Pall-Mall. 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 


A PICTURE  OF  MACAO. 

MoTemcnts  of  the  3qaadron — Cumsinsrmoon— The  Naval  Hospital  at  Macao- -Quiet 
Life — A Chinese  Beggar— The  Band— The  Memories  of  Macao — Situation  of  the 
Town — Its  Appearance — Desertion  of  the  Place — Its  Tropical  Gardens — The  Carr  • 
po — The  Temple  of  Wang  Hyi — Anecdote  of  Cushing — Society  in  Macao — Chinese 
All-Souls’  Day — Discordant  Noises — The  Grotto  of  Camoens — The  Casa  Gardens — 
The  Grotto  at  Daybreak — ^French  Irreverence — Preparations  to  Return  Home- 
Leaving  the  Naval  Service — Trips  to  Hong-Kong  and  Cumsingmoon. 


We  remained  but  two  or  three  days  at  Hong-Kong:  the  season 
of  typhoons  was  at  hand,  and  it  was  considered  advisable  to 
place  the  squadron  in  some  more  sheltered  anchorage.  The 
Mississippi  proceeded  to  Blenheim  Reach,  near  Whampoa, 
where  part  of  the  British  East  India  Squadron  was  already 
anchored ; the  Susquehanna,  after  touching  at  Macao,  to  land 
Commodore  Perry,  was  ordered  to  Cumsingmoon,  about  fifteen 
miles  further  to  the  north.  This  is  merely  a small  Chinese  vil- 
lage, on  an  island  of  the  same  name,  with  the  advantages  of  a 
sheltered  anchorage  in  front  of  it,  a healthy  air  and  good  water. 
The  hills  are  bare  and  bleak  in  aspect,  and  no  place  could  well 
be  more  forlorn,  as  a sojourn.  After  four  days,  however,  the 
artists  corps  received  notice  that  rooms  had  been  appropriated 


QUIET  LIFE. 


475 


to  them  in  a building  in  Macao,  which  had  been  leased  as  a 
Naval  Hospital.  A Portuguese  lorcha  was  dispatched  to  carry 
us  and  our  baggage  to  the  city,  and  we  took  leave  of  the  good 
old  Susquehanna.  We  had  a slow  but  agreeable  run  down  the 
coast,  anchored  in  the  inner  harbor  of  Macao,  and  before  night 
were  fully  installed  in  our  new  quarters. 

The  Naval  Hospital  stood  upon  the  central  ridge  of  the 
island,  and  was  consequently  in  the  highest  part  of  the  city, 
overlooking  the  broad  Canton  Grulf  on  one  side,  and  on  the 
other  the  tiled  roofs  of  the  Portuguese  houses  below,  the  inner 
harbor,  with  its  scanty  fleet  of  junks,  torches  and  tauka  boats, 
and  the  bare,  stony  hills  of  the  island  beyond.  In  front  rose  a 
hill,  with  a deserted  convent  on  its  summit  glowing  in  the  broad 
white  glare  of  the  breathless  August  noons.  The  lower  story 
of  the  Hospital  was  appropriated  to  the  invalids,  of  whom 
there  were  about  twenty,  and  the  Commodore’s  band ; the  sur- 
geons and  artists  occupie  1 the  rooms  above.  With  A-fok  as 
steward,  and  the  market  of  Macao  at  hand,  rich  in  fruit  and 
vegetables,  we  fared  rather  better  than  on  ship’s  rations  and 
tough  Japanese  fowls,  while  the  enclosed  verandah,  on 
account  of  its  airiness,  furnished  admirable  sleeping  accommo- 
dations during  the  dog-days.  The  time  passed  on  quietly  and 
without  particular  incident,  and  T found  the  repose  of  our  life 
very  grateful,  after  the  active  experiences  and  vicissitudes  of 
the  past  year.  There  was  no  serious  duty  to  interfere  with  the 
indulgence  of  that  tropical  indolence,  which  is  such  a luxury 
after  the  fatigue  of  travel. 

Our  principal  annoyance  was  an  old  Chinese  beggar-woman, 
who  sometimes  drove  us  to  desperation  with  her  piercing,  mo- 
notonous wail,  from  her  station  in  the  shade  of  the  house  oppo- 


476 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


site,  and  no  amount  of  “ cash”  (the  cheapest  alms  in  the  world) 
would  drive  her  away.  She  would  then  only  howl  the  more 
pertinaciously  for  more.  Nothing  could  have  been  more  trying 
to  the  nerves  than  her  eternal : “ Chin-chin — a — a — a ! poor 
man — a — a ! how  kin  do — a — a — a I ” But  twice  a day  our 
fine  brass  band  of  twenty  instruments  rehearsed  in  the  long  hall 
below,  usually  commencing  with  the  ringing  chant  of  the  Por- 
tuguese National  Hymn.  The  old  beggar  then  retired  from 
the  field  in  confusion.  A few  tawny  Portuguese,  with  close- 
cropped,  blue-black  hair,  would  sometimes  pause  to  listen  as 
they  passed  through  the  almost  deserted  streets.  The  music 
awoke  no  chord  of  patriotism  or  pride  in  their  breasts ; Macao 
has  out-lived  even  that.  The  strain  ceased,  and  then  the  rich, 
lyrical  throb  of  “ Hail  Columbia”  would  rise  exultingly  into 
the  still  blue  air,  while  the  stars  and  stripes  hung  motionless 
from  the  peak  of  the  flag-staff,  at  the  American  Consulate 
below  us.  Though  I heard  our  country’s  anthem  every  day,  my 
heart  beat  more  quick  and  warm  under  all  that  summer  languor, 
and  my  thoughts  would  turn  for  a moment  to  the  dear  land  on 
the  other  side  of  the  world. 

I prefer  Macao  to  any  other  place  in  China,  partly  on 
account  of  the  picturesque  beauty  of  its  position,  and  partly 
because  it  is  less  Chinese.  It  has  a historj-  which  attaches  it 
to  the  history  of  our  race;  it  has  human  associations  with 
which  we  can  sympathize.  The  annals  of  the  Ming  and  the 
Hang  dynasties  are  no  more  to  me  (with  the  exception  of  the 
reign  of  that  splendid  invader,  Kublai  Khan,)  than  those  of 
fche  Man  in  the  Moon;  but  the  memories  of  Camoens,  the  Poet, 
and  St.  Francis  Xavier,  the  Apostle,  embalm  Macao  for  ev-er  in 
the  eyes  of  the  European  race.  It  was  the  first  beacon  whence 


VIEW  OF  THE  OJTY. 


477 


the  light  of  Christianity  and  the  liberalizing  influences  of  com- 
merce went  forth  into  the  dark  places  of  the  East.  And  now% 
useless  and  worn  out  as  it  seems,  with  its  commerce  destroyed, 
its  palaces  vacant,  its  grandees  beggared,  and  its  importance  as 
a foothold  of  civilization  totally  gone,  there  is  a mournful 
charm  in  the  silence  of  its  grass-grown  streets,  and  the  memory 
of  its  former  power  and  opulence  still  clothes  it  with  a shadowy 
dignity.  Here,  at  least,  there  are  traces  of  Art  and  Taste,  and 
all  those  monstrosities  of  Chinese  C7Vi-taste,  which  would  make 
China  a living  purgatory  to  any  one  with  a keen  appreciation 
of  the  Beautiful,  are  thrust  into  the  background,  and  do  not 
spoil  the  harmony  of  the  picture. 

The  Portuguese  settlement  of  Macao  comprises  a ridgy 
peninsula  about  four  miles  long,  attached  to  the  southern  end 
of  a large  Chinese  island,  by  a narrow,  sandy  neck,  across 
which  a wall  was  thrown  in  the  early  days  of  the  colony.  The 
city  is  built  in  a dip  of  the  hills,  near  the  extremity  of  the  penin 
sula,  and  to  the  east  faces  the  Roads,  the  usual  anchorage  ol 
foreign  shipping.  It  has  another  face  on  the  west,  looking  upon 
the  Inner  Harbor,  a narrow  strait  shut  in  by  lofty  islands. 
Another  channel,  called  the  Typa,  between  two  barren  islands, 
about  a mile  and  a half  to  the  southward,  is  the  usual  anchorage 
.of  vessels  during  the  typhoon  season,  on  account  of  its  shel- 
tered situation.  The  view  of  the  city  from  the  Roads  is  very 
imposing,  and  with  the  island-mountains  in  the  background,  has 
been  compared  by  many  persons  to  that  of  Naples  from  the 
bay,  but  I could  see  scarcely  a single  point  of  resemblance. 
A crescent-shaped  bay,  nearly  a mile  in  length,  fronts  the 
vater,  and  behind  the  massive  stone  pier,  or  Praya,  rises  a row 
of  stately  buildings  of  a pale  yellow  or  pink  color.  The  foliage 


478 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


of  tropical  gardens  peeps  out  behind  them,  and  the  ridge  is 
crowned  with  the  square-towered  Cathedral  and  several 
churches.  At  the  northern  point  is  an  Alameda,  or  public 
square,  planted  with  trees,  above  which  rises  a fortress.  Fur- 
ther to  the  north,  on  the  top  of  a lofty  hill,  is  the  Fort  of  Guia, 
or  Del  Monte,  and  a larger  but  somewhat  dismantled  fortifica- 
tion looms  behind,  on  the  middle  ridge  of  the  peninsula. 

Even  before  landing,  one  notes  the  deserted  aspect  of  the 
place.  There  are  no  crowds  on  the  Pray  a ; the  houses  have  a 
decaying,  mouldy  appearance,  and  you  listen  in  vain  for  that 
hum  of  life  which  floats  about  the  centres  of  trade  or  industry. 
The  solitary  sentry  at  the  foot  of  the  Portuguese  flag-staff 
seems  to  be  dozing  at  his  post.  Now  and  then  some  Chinese 
porters  pass,  or  four  servants  carrying  a sedan  chair  with  all 
the  blinds  down.  During  the  summer,  when  most  of  the  foreign 
merchants  in  Canton  send  their  families  there,  on  account  of 
the  temperate  sea  air,  many  of  the  spacious  old  mansions  are 
inhabited,  and  servants  with  impudent  faces  lounge  about  the 
open  gateways.  Were  it  not  for  the  scanty  revenue  which  they 
derive  from  the  lease  of  their  ancestral  palaces,  many  of  the 
old  Portuguese  families  would  be  entirely  destitute.  Indeed, 
it  is  already  a mystery  how  some  of  them  contrive  to  exist. 
Piece  by  piece  the  old  plate,  and  diamond  by  diamond  the  old 
jewels  are  sold,  while  the  parsimony  of  the  household  belies 
the  appearance  of  wealth  which  still  lingers  about  the  massive 
buildings  and  the  luxuriant  gardens. 

These  fine  old  gardens  are  the  greatest  ornament  of  the  city, 
hiding  its  dilapidation,  and  recalling,  in  the  care  and  taste 
which  they  have  not  wholly  outgrown,  those  which  adorn  the 
cities  of  Southern  Spain.  Although  the  winters  are  wet  and 


THE  CAMPO. 


479 


cold,  all  tlie  hardier  varieties  of  tropical  fruits  thrive  well,  and 
even  the  mango,  the  papaya  and  the  guava  are  found  in  the 
markets.  On  the  garden-terraces,  in  the  upper  part  of  the 
city,  whence  you  have  a charming  panorama  of  the  island-stud- 
ded gulf,  the  spiry  cypress  and  the  orange  of  Portugal  mingle 
their  foliage  with  the  palm,  the  bamboo  and  the  Indian  banyan. 
In  August,  the  high  walls  which  enclose  them  are  festooned 
with  enormous  masses  of  the  night-blooming  cereus,  whose 
milky  blossoms,  a foot  in  diameter,  diffuse  a sweet  and  powerful 
odor.  Around  the  fountains  the  sacred  lotus  opens  its  sunnj 
cup,  tipped  with  as  pure  a rose  as  summer  daybreak  can  show 
The  lagistrcemia^  with  its  soft,  crape-like  racemes  of  white  or 
crimson,  and  the  burning  scarlet  of  the  pomegranate  flower,  star 
the  deep  green  masses  of  foliage.  Nature  is  always  luxurious 
within  the  Tropics. 

Two  gates  in  the  northern  wall  of  the  city  lead  to  what  is 
called  the  Campo~an  open,  cultivated  tract  of  country  sepa- 
rated by  a bleak  ridge  from , the  sandy  flat  which  divides  the 
Portuguese  territories  from  the  Chinese.  The  Campo  is  tra- 
versed by  an  excellent  road,  uniting  with  a new  one  which  has 
been  cut  along  the  face  of  the  bluffs  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
island.  The  two  combined  form  an  agreeable  drive,  and  every 
evening  towards  sunset,  all  who  possess  or  are  rich  enough  to 
hire  a horse  or  equipage,  m'ay  be  seen  taking  their  way  along  the 
Praya  to  the  Alameda,  and  thence  striking  out  on  the  course  of 
the  Campo.  This  drive  of  three  or  four  miles,  with  a gallop 
over  the  sands  to  the  Chinese  barrier,  is  a grateful  release  to 
the  Canton  merchant,  and  in  comparison  with  the  conflnement 
•jf  his  hongs,  the  Campo  appears  as  boundless  and  as  free  as  ao 
Illinois  prairie.  The  fort  of  Guia,  with  a steep  zigzag  path 


480 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


leading  up  to  its  battlements,  towers  bigb  over  it,  on  the  east ; 
on  the  opposite  side  the  Chinese  village  of  Wang-Hya,  lies  em- 
bedded in  bamboo  and  Indian  fig-trees;  over  a level  covered 
with  rice-fields  and  vegetable  gardens,  stretches  a wide  blue 
arm  of  the  bay,  and  the  mountains  of  the  western  island  lean 
away  to  the  south,  disclosing  other  channels  and  other  islands 
beyond. 

I paid  a visit  to  Wang-Hya  (or  in  the  Macao  dialect, 
Mong-ha),  which  gives  its  name  to  the  treaty  concluded  between 
the  United  States  and  China,  under  the  auspices  of  our  great 
mandarin  Cushing  (Coo-Shing,  a genuine  Chinese  name),  and 
the  Commissioner  Keying.  The  signing  of  this  treaty  and  the 
festivities  consequent  thereupon,  took  place  in  the  great  tem- 
ple of  Wang-Hya — a large  building  of  gray  granite,  rather 
more  simple  and  tasteful  in  its  architecture  than  Chinese  tem- 
ples usually  are.  In  fact,  but  for  the  enormous  misshapen 
gods,  glaring  all  over  with  vermillion  and  gilding,  those  mas- 
sive courts  and  heavy,  overhanging  roofs,  shaded  by  the  broad 
arms  of  several  giant  Indian  fig-trees,  would  afford  a very 
pleasing  picture.  There  is  a Macao  legend  to  the  effect  that, 
when  Cushing  went  out  in  state  to  meet  Keying,  he  was  at- 
tended by  the  Portuguese  band  belonging  to  the  Governor,  and 
that  the  drum-major  of  the  band  made  such  an  impression  upon 
the  Chinese  authorities  by  his  portly  size,  and  the  glitter  of  his 
full-dress  uniform,  that  they  imagined  him  to  be  the  American 
mandarin,  and  wasted  several  profound  salutations  upon  him 
before  the  mistake  was  discovered. 

As  for  amusements  in  Macao,  there  were  none  except  the 
daily  stroll  on  the  Praya  and  ride  in  the  Campo,  with  an  occa- 
sional dinner  or  dance.  The  Governor,  Senhor  Guimaraes,  was 


CHINESE  ALL  SOUl’s  DAY. 


481 


an  urbane  and  polished  gentleman,  and  entertained  frequently, 
and  there  were  a few  Portuguese  families  who  still  kept  up 
something  of  the  old  state.  The  theatre,  a reminiscence  of 
the  palmy  days  of  Macao,  had  long  been  closed,  but  was  again 
opened  for  a concert  given  by  our  band,  who  made  Macao  ring 
with  such  music  as  had  not  been  heard  for  years.  The  bugle- 
players  belonging  to  the  Portuguese  garrison  are  very  fine,  but 
the  Grovernor’s  band  would  scarcely  be  tolerated  any  where 
else.  By  the  Commodore’s  permission,  our  band  performed  on 
the  Alameda  every  Thursday  evening,  and  all  Macao  went 
there  in  the  moonlight  to  look  upon  the  sparkling  bay,  and  drink, 
with  thirsty  ears,  the  sweet  strains. 

During  my  stay,  the  Chinese  residents  celebrated  their  great 
religious  festival — a sort  of  All  Soul’s  Day,  or  worship  paid  col- 
lectively to  all  the  gods  and  saints  in  their  mythology,  their  own 
ancestors  included.  It  is  a convenient  way  of  lumping  together 
a number  of  minor  worships,  and  wiping  out  with  one  grand 
stroke  the  delinquencies  of  the  year ; and  the  essence  of  the 
Chinese  religion  not  being  love  of  God,  but  fear  of  the  devil, 
they  manage  to  propitiate  their  neglected  Satans  by  a terrific 
thumping  of  tom-toms,  and  a fizzle  and  splutter  of  fireworks, 
which  lasts  three  days.  On  the  occasion,  they  constructed  a 
large  framework  on  the  Praya,  which  was  covered  with  mus- 
lins, silks,  and  spangled  paper,  so  as  to  represent  the  shrine  of 
a temple  It  was  about  15  feet  high,  by  30  in  length,  and 
hung  with  lamps  of  every  quality  and  fashion,  from  Bohemian 
crystal  to  horn  and  mica.  A variety  of  hideous  divinities,  with 
Mack  or  copper-colored  faces,  squatted  on  shrines  or  stood  stifly 
erect  in  niches;  and  in  a recess  at  one  end,  three  or  four  noisi- 
dans  made  an  infernal  din  with  gongs,  tom-toms  and  lonjj  hoi 
21 


482 


IKDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


low  bamboos  which  emitted  shrieks  that  made  your  nerves 
quiver.  I doubt  if  the  word  “ harmony  ” is  to  be  found  in  the 
Chinese  language.  Not  even  the  sense  of  a rhythm  could  be 
extracted  from  the  dreadful  discord,  but  each  instrument  of 
torture  raved  in  its  own  way,  regardless  of  the  others.  AVhat 
must  be  the  nature  of  those  who  take  delight  in  such  sounds  ? 

The  loveliest  spot  in  Macao  is  the  garden  and  grotto  of 
Camoens,  and  thither  the  stranger  first  turns  his  steps.  Dur- 
ing  my  first  visit  there,  in  March,  it  was  the  only  thing  I saw. 
The  Susquehanna  was  to  leave  for  Shanghai  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  as  there  was  a chance  that  I might  not  return,  I suc- 
ceeded, with  much  difficulty,  in  making  the  swarthy  landlord  of 
the  “ National  Hotel  ” comprehend  what  it  was  that  I wanted 
to  see.  He  called  me  before  daybreak,  and  gave  me  an  old 
Chinaman  as  guide  to  the  place.  We  threaded  a numbei  of 
crooked  streets  in  the  dusk,  passed  the  facade  of  an  eminent 
Jesuit  church,  which  was  destroyed  by  fire,  and  at  length 
reached  a little  grassy  square  on  the  hill,  in  the  north-western 
corner  of  the  city.  By  dint  of  knocking  and  calling,  my  guide 
aroused  a sleepy  servant,  who  opened  a gate  and  admitted  me 
into  a trim  parterre,  redolent  of  rose  and  jessamine,  and  open- 
ing into  a deep  garden,  wherein  the  shadows  still  lingered 
thick  and  dark  under  the  trees.  A large  and  stately  mansion 
now  occupies  the  site  of  the  Franciscan  Convent  in  which 
Camoens  lived.  The  property  belongs  to  Count  Salvi,  who  has 
offered  it  for  sale,  for  the  sum  of  $5,000,  without  finding  a 
purchaser. 

I took  my  way  at  random  through  the  garden,  seeking,  in 
the  gray  morning  twilight,  for  the  grotto  whose  shelter  gave 
birth  to  the  “ Lusiad.”  It  was  a wilderness  of  large  trees, 


AN  EXILED  POET. 


483 


made  still  more  intricate  in  some  places  by  a thick  under- 
growth, and  the  rank  parasitic  vines  which  clung  from  bough 
to  bough.  It  followed  the  slope  of  the  hill,  terraced  here  and 
there,  while  the  highest  part  was  overhung  by  immense  granite 
boulders,  heaped  one  upon  the  other,  till  the  topmost  masses 
towered  above  the  trees.  I found  an  aviary  with  a dead  tree 
in  it,  showing  that  birds  had  once  been  there ; a fountain,  dry 
and  cracking  to  pieces ; and  finally,  noticing  a small  chapel 
reared  upon  a rock  in  the  thickest  part  of  the  wood,  was  led  to 
the  object  of  my  search.  The  grotto  is  simply  a natural  portal 
formed  by  three  great  boulders  of  grey  granite,  within  whose 
arch  the  poet  found  shade  and  coolness  and  privacy.  It  is  not 
a cavern  of  Jeremiah,  to  feed  austere  thoughts  and  gloomy 
prophecies,  but  a grotto  just  too  stern  not  to  be  Arcadian  and 
idyllic.  The  portal  is  now  closed  at  each  end  by  an  iron  grat- 
ing, and  within  it  stands  a bronze  bust  of  the  poet,  elevated  on 
a lofty  pedestal,  containing  three  stanzas  from  the  Lusiad,  in 
bronze  letters.  The  dawn  gradually  brightened,  as  I stood 
beside  the  grating;  the  darkness  under  the  trees  faded  into 
twilight,  but  the  features  of  the  poet  were  not  discernible  in  the 
gloom  which  filled  the  recess.  Fit  monument  to  him,  who 
turned  into  glory  the  shame  of  banishment  and  the  sorrow  of 
exile — who  made  the  power  and  the  injustice  of  the  land  that 
gave  him  birth  alike  immortal ! 

I frequently  went  there  afterwards  by  daylight,  but  the 
genus  loci  was  less  distinct  and  impressive  than  in  that  silent 
morning  hour.  The  Chevalier  di  Kienzi,  a Frenchman  who 
styles  himself,  “ poete  exile,”  has  had  a tablet  cut  upon  the 
rock  beside  the  grotto,  and  a poem  of  his  own  in  praise  of  Cam* 
oens  inscribed  upon  it.  The  poem  is  good,  considering  that  it 


484 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


is  Freucli,  and  if  tlie  Chevalier  di  Rienzi  had  a name  in  liter' 
ature,  we  might  pardon,  and  even  approve,  his  desire  to  couple 
it  with  the  illustrious  Camoens.  To  me,  who  never  heard  of 
him  before,  the  deed  is  presumptuous  and  profane ; though  a 
thousand  times  less  so  than  some  French  doggerel  upon  Cam- 
oens written  in  the  visitor’s  book.  From  the  terrace  on  the 
western  side  of  the  garden  there  are  lovely  views  of  the  inner 
harbor,  especially  towards  sunset ; and  the  “ Casa  Gardens,”  as 
they  are  called,  are  a frequent  resort  of  the  foreign  residents  at 
that  hour. 

My  days  passed  away  quietly  and  indolently  enough, 
through  the  remainder  of  August.  The  thermometer  ranged 
from  80°  to  93°  in  the  shade,  and  the  sun,  hanging  directly  in 
the  zenith  at  noon,  poured  down  a flood  of  white  heat.  Macao 
seemed  wholly  deserted  at  such  times,  notwithstanding  its 
society  was  larger  and  more  animated  than  usual.  I began  to 
make  preparations  for  returning  home,  a course  which  was  ren- 
dered necessary  by  my  long  absence.  The  fact  of  my  having 
entered  the  service  bound  me  for  the  entire  cruise,  but  Commo- 
dore Perry,  with  his  usual  kindness,  on  learning  that  a prolonged 
absence  would  be  a serious  disadvantage  to  me,  gave  me  leave 
to  resign.  I desired  to  return  by  way  of  San  Francisco,  but  as 
no  vessel  was  then  up  for  that  port,  I changed  my  plans  and 
took  passage  for  New  York  in  the  clipper  ship  Sea  Serpent^ 
Captain  Howland,  which  was  announced  to  sail  from  Whampoa 
on  the  9th  of  September. 

I made  a trip  to  Hong-Kong  to  draw  some  funds  from  the 
Oriental  Bank,  and  had  the  satisfaction  of  receiving  $347  for  a 
letter  of  credit  on  London  for  $500.  In  returning  I took  a 
mmpan^  as  the  Chinese  boats  are  called,  and  made  the  run  to 


TRIP  TO  CUMSINGMOON. 


485 


Macao  in  five  hours  and  a half,  at  the  risk  of  falling  into  the 
hands  of  the  pirates  who  infest  the  Lemma  and  Lin-tin  Islands 
I also  went  up  to  Cumsingmoon,  in  the  fast  boat  of  old  Eyok^ 
who  supplied  the  squadron  with  fresh  provisions,  and  passed 
another  night  on  board  the  dear  old  Susquehanna.  I began  to 
love  the  very  timbers  of  the  staunch  frigate  that  had  been  my 
home,  more  or  less,  for  six  months,  and  I felt  a keen  pang  on 
moving  away  from  her  huge  black  hull  and  the  gallant  souls 
within  it.  May  prosperous  breezes  attend  her  and  them,  wher- 
ever they  sail! 


CHAPTER  XL. 

SCENES  IN  AND  AROUND  CANTON. 


Increase  of  the  Squadron — ^Disposition  of  the  Vessels — Passage  to  Canton — First  Visit 
of  the  City— The  Foreign  Factories— Old  and  New  China  Streets — Talking  “ Pi- 
geon English” — The  Great  Temple  of  Honan — Ceremonies  of  the  Priests — Sacred 
Books  and  Pigs— The  Lotus  Blossom — Dwellings  of  the  Priests — A Retired  Ab- 
bot— Opium  Smoking  in  China — The  Opium-Pipe — Flavor  and  Fascination  of  the 
Drug- Its  Effects — A Walk  around  Canton— The  Walls— Entering  the  City— For- 
eign Devils — A Tea-House — Beyond  the  Suburbs — A Chinese  Panorama — The 
Feast  of  Lanterns — Dr.  Parker’s  Hospital — The  Eve  of  Departure. 


By  the  end  of  August,  all  the  vessels  of  the  squadron  had 
arrived  in  China,  with  the  exception  of  the  store-ship  Lexing- 
ton. The  Macedonian^  Vandalia  and  Southampton  were  sent 
to  the  anchorage  at  Cumsingmoon,  whither  the  Powhatan^ 
which  returned  to  Hong-Kong  on  the  25th,  also  proceeded. 
She  was  detained  eight  days  at  Loo-Choo,  in  order  to  remedy 
a slight  defect  in  one  of  her  engines.  The  store-ship  Supply^ 
arrived  at  Hong-Kong  on  the  27th,  having  touched  at  Amoy 
on  her  way  from  Loo-Choo.  Canton  was  in  a very  unsettled 
state,  and  the  foreign  merchants  anticipated  trouble,  on  account 
of  the  spread  of  the  rebellion.  All  the  American  firms 
addressed  a letter  to  Commodore  Perry,  begging  that  a national 
vessel  might  be  sent  up  to  the  Macao  Passage,  within  a mile 
and  a half  of  the  factories.  The  Supply  was  therefore  ordered 


FIRST  VIEW  OF  CANTON. 


487 


np  the  river,  as  all  the  other  vessels  of  the  squadron  drew  toe 
much  water  to  pass  the  bar.  Our  great  steam  frigates  certainly 
contributed  to  our  success  in  Japan,  but  they  are  nearly  use- 
less for  service  in  the  Chinese  waters. 

I took  the  anchor  from  my  cap  on  the  5th  of  September 
after  four  months’  service,  and  in  the  evening  of  the  same  day 
bade  adieu  to  my  messmates  and  embarked  on  board  the  steamer 
for  Canton.  Mr.  Contee,  the  Flag-Lieutenant  of  the  Squadron, 
who  had  procured  leave  of  absence  on  account  of  ill-health  and 
had  also  taken  passage  on  the  Sea  Serpent,  accompanied  me. 
It  was  after  sunset  when  we  left,  and  my  last  glimpse  of  Macao 
was  the  dark  silhouette  of  its  hills  against  the  fading  sky.  We 
had  an  indistinct  night-view  of  the  Bogue  Forts,  at  the  Bocca 
Tigris,  or  mouth  of  the  Whampoa  Biver,  after  which  I sought 
a couch  on  one  of  the  hard  benches  in  the  cabin,  but  failed 
to  extract  much  repose  from  it. 

The  steamer  did  not  reach  her  destination  until  daybreak 
the  next  morning.  Consequently,  whatever  there  may  be  of  the 
picturesque  or  striking  in  the  approach  to  Canton,  was  lost  tc 
me.  As  the  rapid  dawn  of  the  South  brightened  into  sunrise, 
I found  that  we  were  anchored  in  the  middle  of  the  stream 
between  the  foreign  Factories  and  the  famous  temple  of  Honan. 
The  Pearl  Biver,  at  this  place,  is  not  more  than  a quarter  of  a 
mile  wide,  and  thickly  studded  with  junks,  flower-boats  and 
those  crowded  hulks  which  contain  the  “ floating  population” — 
an  important  item  in  the  census  of  the  city.  What  little  can 
be  seen  of  the  native  part  of  Canton  from  this  point,  is  lew  and 
mean,  unrelieved  by  a single  pagoda.  The  foreign  Factories 
on  the  contrary,  inclosing  a parallelogram  of  three  or  four 
acres,  which  extends  down  to  the  river,  are  substantial  blocks 


488 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


of  buildings,  four  stories  in  height.  The  open  space  has  been 
turned  into  a Botanical  Garden,  which  is  kept  in  excellent 
order,  as  it  affords  the  residents  their  only  chance  for  agreeable 
exercise,  except  that  of  boating  on  the  river.  In  this  garden 
four  lofty  flag-staffs,  planted  at  regular  intervals,  display  the 
colors  of  America,  France,  England  and  Denmark,  and  in  the 
centre  a neat  Gothic  Chapel  stands  on  the  site  of  the  old  Hog- 
Lane,  renowned  during  the  troubles  of  1841.  The  factories 
are  divided  into  different  “ hongs” — English,  American,  Danish, 
&c. — but  the  foreign  community  is  crowded  into  narrow 
bounds,  hemmed  in  on  all  sides  by  the  jealousy  of  the  native 
authorities,  and  a five  minutes’  walk  will  embrace  its  utmost 
limits. 

Adjacent  to  the  factories  are  the  streets  occupied  by  the 
Chinese  “ hong  merchants,”  whose  dealings  are  almost  wholly 
with  foreigners,  and  the  markets  and  shops  of  mechanics,  which 
depend  on  foreign  custom.  The  most  noted  thoroughfares  are 
Old  and  New  China-streets,  and  Looking-Glass  and  Spectacle- 
streets,  which  in  their  quaint  forms  and  brilliant  coloring,  their 
gay,  bustling  and  lively  aspect,  resemble  the  bazaars  of  Orien- 
tal cities.  They  are  narrow,  the  houses  two  stories  in  height, 
with  projecting  roofs,  the  fronts  of  a dark  blue  or  green  color, 
with  a mixture  of  bright  red,  and  still  further  relieved  by  the 
gilded  hieroglyphics  which  cover  the  vertical  swinging  signs. 
In  Old  and  New  China-streets  there  are  also  English  signs 
which  inform  you  that  A-Kow  or  Hu-ping  deals  in  silks,  or 
porcelain,  or  lacquered  ware,  or  ivory,  or  mother-of-pearl,  or 
sandal-wood,  or  silver.  The  predominant  talent  of  the  Chinese 
is  their  faculty  of  imitation,  and  since  their  intercourse  with 
foreigners  has  become  less  restricted,  they  have  been  obliged  to 


PIGEON  ENGLISH. 


489 


abandon  many  of  their  former  grotesque  models  and  accept 
others  more  consonant  with  a civilized  taste.  This  is  shown  in 
the  patterns  of  their  silks,  the  form  and  style  of  their  articles 
in  silver  and  ivory,  and  their  furniture.  The  display  in  their 
shops  is  tempting  to  a stranger,  hut  purchases  were  ruinous  at 
a crisis,  when  money  commanded  fifty  per  cent,  premium  at 
Canton,  and  seventy^  5ve  per  cent,  at  Shanghai. 

Whoever  first  invented  the  “ pigeon  English,”  as  it  is  called 
— the  jargon  used  by  foreigners  in  their  intercourse  with  Chi- 
nese— deserves  an  immortality  of  ridicule.  The  jargon  has 
now  become  so  fixed,  that  it  will  take  several  generations  to 
eradicate  it.  The  Chinaman  requires  as  much  practice  to 
learn  it  as  he  would  to  learn  correct  English,  while  the  English- 
man, in  his  turn,  must  pick  it  up  as  he  would  a new  language. 

^ Fancy,  for  instance,  a man  going  into  one  of  the  silverware 
shops  in  New  China-street,  and  saying,  “ My  wantye  two  piece 
snuff-box : can  secure  ? ” when  his  meaning  is  simply — “ I want 
two  snuff-boxes : can  you  get  them  ? ” To  which  A-Wing 
gravely  answers : “ Can  secure.”  Or,  another  declaring : “ My 
no  savey  that  pigeon” — which  signifies  in  English  : “ I don’t 
understand  the  business.”  If  you  make  inquiries  at  a hotel, 
you  must  ask : “ What  man  have  got  top-side  ? ” (who  are  up 
stairs  ? ) and  the  Chinese  servant  will  make  answer : “ Two 
piece  captain,  one  piece  joss-man,  have  got.”  (There  are  two 
captains  and  a clergyman.)  It  was  some  time  before  I could 
bring  myself  to  make  use  of  this  absurd  and  barbarous  lingo, 
and  it  was  always  very  unpleasant  to  hear  it  spoken  by  a lady. 

As  far  as  sight-seeing  is  concerned.  Canton  has  very  little 
to  offer  the  traveller,  and  I was  so  thoroughly  surfeited  with 
China  that  I made  no  effort  to  see  more  than  the  most  promi- 
2V 


490 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


nent  objects.  Mr.  Wells  Williams  and  tbe  Kev.  Mr.  Bonne j 
were  kind  enough  to  accompany  me  through  the  Temple  of 
Honan,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  This  is  a place  of 
great  sanctity,  embracing  within  its  bounds  a well-endowed 
college  of  Boodhist  priests.  There  are  a number  of  temples 
or  rather  shrines  of  the  gods,  standing  within  enclosed  courts, 
which  are  shaded  by  large  and  venerable  trees.  We  first  passed 
through  a portal,  placed  in  advance,  like  the  pylon  of  an  Egyp- 
tian temple,  with  a colossal  figure  on  each  side,  of  the  watch- 
ers or  guardians  of  the  edifice.  With  their  distended  abdo- 
mens, copper  faces  and  fierce  black  eyeballs,  they  might  very 
well  have  passed  for  Gog  and  Magog.  The  temples  were  mas- 
sive square  structures,  with  peaked  roofs,  containing  colossal 
gilded  statues  of  various  divinities,  most  of  whom  were  seated 
cross-legged,  with  their  hands  on  their  stomachs  and  a grin  of 
ineffable  good-humor  on  their  faces.  They  were  no  doubt  rep- 
resented as  having  dined  well,  and  therefore  the  more  easily  to 
be  propitiated.  We  reached  the  main  temple  in  time  to  wit- 
ness the  rites  of  the  Boodhist  priests.  Numerous  candles 
and  “joss-sticks”  of  sandal-wood  were  burning  at  the  feet  of 
the  vast  statues,  and  the  shaven-headed  priests,  thirty  or  forty 
in  number,  walked  solemnly  in  a circle  around  the  open  space 
before  them,  chanting  their  hymns.  The  character  of  the  chants 
was  very  similar  to  some  of  those  used  in  the  Roman  Catholic 
service,  and  there  were  other  features  in  the  ceremonies  of  the 
priests  which  showed  the  same  resemblance.  I believe  this 
fact  has  been  noticed  by  other  travellers. 

After  the  chanting  was  concluded,  the  priests  came  out  iii 
single  ‘file  and  passed  into  the  large  building  which  they  inhab- 
ited in  common.  Some  of  them  paused  to  speak  with  Mr 


THE  LOTUS  BLOSSOM. 


491 


Bonuey,  wlio  was  known  to  them,  and  whom  they  seemed  to 
regard  without  the  least  animosity,  notwithstanding  his  mis- 
sionary character.  We  then  entered  a labyrinth  of  smaller 
buildings,  in  one  of  which  was  a printing  establishment,  where 
the  legends  of  Boodhism  were  multiplied  in  great  quantities. 
Many  of  the  books  were  illustrated  with  curious  wood-cuts. 
A little  further,  we  came  upon  the  stable  of  the  sacred  hogs, 
and  were  allowed  a look  at  the  venerated  animals.  Alas  ! like 
many  humans,  their  swinish  nature  was  only  increased  and 
intensified  by  their  exalted  station.  Very  slothful  and  greedy 
were  they. 

The  temple,  without  its  various  attendant  edifices,  courts 
and  gardens,  covers  an  area  of  forty-two  acres.  The  garden, 
however,  is  a mere  vegetable  patch,  with  a pond  of  the  sacred 
lotus  in  the  midst.  Several  of  these  superb  plants  were  in 
bloom,  and  we  bribed  a laborer  to  wade  out  into  the  slimy  pool 
and  procure  us  a few  blossoms.  The  slender  stem,  five  feet  in 
length,  upholds  a broad  cup,  as  elegant  in  form  as  the  Warwick 
Yase,  and  about  eight  inches  in  diameter,  when  fully  expanded. 
The  leaves  have  the  velvety  whiteness  of  alabaster,  veined 
with  delicate  pencillings  of  the  purest  rose-color,  and  in  the 
centre  lies  the  fruit,  an  inverted  cone  of  pale  green,  surrounded 
with  a fringe  of  golden  anthers.  The  perfume  has  that  fresh 
and  healthy  sweetness  which  never  cloys  the  sense.  The  Bose 
may  be  a queen  among  flowers,  but  the  Lotus,  sublime  in  its 
purity,  grace  and  exquisite  beauty,  is  a goddess.  How  gorgeous 
a show  must  its  blossoms  make,  on  the  White  Nile,  where,  at 
the  first  ray  of  sunrise,  tens  of  thousands  flash  open  all  at 
once,  along  leagues  of  shore  I 

Beyond  the  pool  was  a little  copse,  in  which  stood  a small 


492 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


building,  used  in  tbe  incremation  of  the  dead  priests.  It  was 
a simple  chamber,  with  a small  entrance,  and  vents  for  the 
escape  of  the  smoke.  The  body  is  placed  on  a funeral  pile, 
which  is  replenished  until  the  flesh  is  roasted  into  cinders  and 
the  bones  calcined  into  dust.  On  our  way  back  to  the  river, 
we  passed  through  the  habitation  of  the  priests,  taking  a looh 
at  their  kitchens  and  refectories.  A number  of  the  younger 
brethren  gathered  around  us,  lusting  strongly  after  the  carnal 
gratification  of  cigars,  and  my  whole  stock  was  soon  divided 
among  them.  Mr.  Bonney  took  me  to  visit  a former  abbot,  a 
man  of  much  learning,  who  was  then  living  in  a quiet  way,  on 
a pension.  He  received  us  with  much  cordiality,  and  showed 
us  his  bachelor  establishment  of  three  rooms  and  a little  gar^ 
den,  which  were  kept  in  great  neatness  and  order.  He  was 
about  sixty  years  of  age,  and  his  pale  face,  calm  eye  and  high, 
retreating  brow,  spoke  of  a serene  and  studious  life.  In  an 
inner  chamber,  however,  I noticed  one  of  those  couches  which 
are  used  by  the  opium-smokers,  and  the  faint,  subtle  odor  of  the 
drug  still  hung  about  the  furniture  and  the  walls. 

In  spite  of  the  penalties  attached  to  it  by  Chinese  law,  the 
smoking  of  opium  is  scarcely  a concealed  practice  at  present. 
I have  seen  it  carried  on  in  open  shops  in  Shanghai,  where 
there  are  some  streets  which  are  never  free  from  the  sickening 
smell.  It  had  always  been  my  intention  to  make  a trial  of  the 
practice,  in  order  to  learn  its  efiects  by  personal  experience, 
and  being  now  on  the  eve  of  leaving  China,  I applied  to  a gen- 
tleman residing  in  Canton,  to  put  me  in  the  way  of 'enjoying  a 
pipe  or  two.  He  was  well  acquainted  with  a Chinaman  who 
was  addicted  to  the  practice,  and  by  an  agreement  with  him, 
took  me  to  his  house  one  evening.  We  were  ushered  into  a 


SMOKING  OPIUM. 


493 


long  room,  with  a divan,  or  platform  about  three  feet  high,  at 
the  further  end.  Several  Chinamen  were  in  the  room,  and  one. 
stretched  out  on  the  platform,  was  preparing  his  pipe  at  a 
lamp.  The  host  invited  me  to  stretch  myself  opposite  to  him, 
and  place  my  head  upon  one  of  those  cane  head-stools  which 
serve  the  Chinese  in  lieu  of  pillows. 

The  opium-pipe  is  a bamboo  stick,  about  two  feet  long, 
having  a small  drum  inserted  near  the  end,  with  an  aperture 
in  its  centre.  A piece  of  opium,  about  twice  the  size  of  a pin’s 
head,  is  taken  up  on  a slender  wire  and  held  in  the  flame  of 
the  lamp  until  it  boils  or  bubbles  up,  when  it  is  rolled  into  a 
cylindrical  shape  on  the  drum,  by  the  aid  of  the  wire.  It 
loses  its  dark  color  by  the  heating  and  becomes  pale  and  soft. 
Having  been  sufficiently  rolled,  it  is  placed  over  the  aperture, 
and  the  wire,  after  being  thrust  through  its  centre,  to  allow 
the  air  to  pass  i»to  the  pipe,  is  withdrawn.  The  pipe  is  then 
held  to  the  flame,  and  as  the  opium  burns,  its  fumes  are  drawn 
into  the  lungs  by  a strong  and  long-continued  inspiration.  In 
about  half  a minute  the  portion  is  exhausted,  and  the  smoker 
is  ready  for  a second  pipe. 

To  my  surprise  I found  the  taste  of  the  drug  as  delicious 
as  its  smell  is  disagreeable.  It  leaves  a sweet,  rich  flavor,  like 
the  finest  liquorice,  upon  the  palate,  and  the  gentle  stimulus  it 
communicates  to  the  blood  in  the  lungs,  fills  the  whole  body 
with  a sensation  of  warmth  and  strength.  The  fumes  of  the 
opium  are  no  more  irritating  to  the  windpipe  or  bronchial 
tubes,  than  common  air,  while  they  seem  imbued  with  a rich- 
ness of  vitality  far  beyond  our  diluted  oxygen.  I had  supposed 
that  opium  was  smoked  entirely  for  the  purpose  of  mental  ex- 
hilaration, and  that  to  the  smokers,  as  to  many  who  intoxicate 


494 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


themselves  with  ardent  spirits,  there  was  no  sensual  gratifica- 
tion in  the  mere  taste  of  the  article  The  reverse  is  undoubtedly 
the  truth,  and  the  practice,  therefore,  is  doubly  dangerous. 
Its  victim  becomes  hopelessly  involved  in  its  fascinating  illu- 
sions, and  an  awful  death,  such  as  I had  witnessed  not  long 
before,  is  sure,  sooner  or  later,  to  overtake  him  who  indulges  to 
excess.  I have  a pretty  strong  confidence  in  my  own  powers 
of  resistance,  but  do  not  desire  to  make  the  experiment  a 
second  time. 

Beyond  the  feeling  of  warmth,  vigor  and  increased  vitality, 
softened  by  a happy  consciousness  of  repose,  there  was  no  effect, 
until  after  finishing  the  sixth  pipe.  My  spirits  then  became 
joyously  excited,  with  a constant  disposition  to  laugh ; bril- 
liant colors  floated  before  my  eyes,  but  in  a confused  and  cloudy 
way,  sometimes  converging  into  spots  like  the  eyes  in  a pea- 
cock’s tail,  but  oftenest  melting  into  and  through  each  other, 
like  the  hues  of  changeable  silk.  Had  the  physical  excitement 
been  greater,  they  would  have  taken  form  and  substance,  but 
after  smoking  nine  pipes  I desisted,  through  fear  of  subject- 
ing myself  to  some  unpleasant  after-effect.  Our  Chinese  host 
informed  me  that  he  was  obliged  to  take  twenty  pipes,  in  order 
to  elevate  his  mind  to  the  pitch  of  perfect  happiness.  I went 
home  feeling  rather  giddy,  and  became  so  drowsy,  with  slight 
qualms  at  the  stomach,  that  I went  to  bed  at  an  early  hour. 
I had  made  an  arrangement  to  walk  around  the  walls  of  Can- 
ton the  next  morning,  with  Mr.  Bonney,  and  felt  some  doubt 
as  to  whether  I should  be  able  to  undertake  it ; but,  after  a 
deep  and  refreshing  sleep,  I arose  at  sunrise,  feeling  stronger 
and  brighter  than  I had  done  for  weeks  past. 

The  walls  of  Canton  are  about  eight  miles  in  circuit 


IN  THE  STREETS  OF  CANTON. 


495 


This  is  but  a limited  extent  for  a city,  wbich  contains  upwards 
of  a million  of  inhabitants,  and  more  than  half  the  population 
probably  live  without  the  walls,  on  the  side  next  the  river 
In  those  dark,  narrow,  and  crooked  streets  which  lie  behind 
the  factories,  the  swarm  of  human  beings  is  uninterrupted  from 
the  earliest  dawn  until  late  in  the  night.  We  set  out  at  an 
hour  when  few  of  the  Europeans  were  stirring,  and  the  streets 
were  already  so  crowded  that  it  was  difficult  to  avoid  contact 
with  the  porters  and  water-carriers — a contact  to  be  shunned 
at  all  hazards.  Though  there  was  less  noisome  filth  than  in  the 
streets  of  Shanghai,  more  senses  than  one  were  offended,  and  1 
felt  much  relieved  when,  after  a walk  of  more  than  two  miles, 
we  came  into  a less  thickly  settled  quarter.  A Chinese  city  is 
the  greatest  of  all  abominations,  and  one  ceases  to  wonder  at 
the  physical  deformity,  or  the  monstrous  forms  of  licentious- 
ness, which  are  to  be  found  among  the  lower  classes  of  the  na- 
tives,  when  he  has  seen  the  manner  in  which  they  live. 

Our  road  in  many  places  skirted  the  wall,  which  is  of 
brick,  about  twenty-five  feet  high,  and  with  a machicolated  pa- 
rapet. At  the  angles  there  is  sometimes  a rude  square  bastion, 
surmounted  by  an  ornamental  edifice — probably  a pleasure- 
house  belonging  to  gardens  within.  We  passed  several  gates, 
into  all  of  which  I looked,  but  could  not  see  that  the  streets 
within  differed  in  the  least  from  those  without.  Near  the 
south-eastern  corner  Mr.  Bonney  entered  suddenly,  I following, 
and  we  passed  across  the  angle  and  nut  at  another  gate,  without 
any  one  attempting  to  hinder  us.  While  we  were  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  factories,  we  were  allowed  to  pursue  our  way 
unnoticed,  but  in  the  straggling  suburbs  on  the  eastern  side, 
we  were  frequently  hailed  with  the  insulting  cry  of  Fanr 


196 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


hwei  ! ” (Foreign  Devil !)  One  old  man,  who  was  at  work  in 
his  shop,  made  an  exclamation  as  we  passed,  which  Mr.  Bon- 
ney  translated  thus : “ I lifted  up  my  eyes,  and  behold ! two 
devils  suddenly  appeared  before  me ! ” One  of  these  devils 
however  belied  the  character  given  him,  by  carrying  with  him 
a bundle  of  Christian  tracts,  which  he  distributed  with  a lib- 
eral hand,  every  one,  old  or  young,  male  or  female,  accepting 
them  with  great  willingness.  They  are  too  willing  in  fact. 
The  carelessness  with  which  they  take  every  thing  that  is  of- 
fered them  shows  a lack  of  respect  for  their  own  faith,  an  ab- 
sence of  that  inherent  devotional  spirit,  which  alone  can  serve 
as  the  groundwork  of  their  Christianization. 

At  a gate  near  the  north-eastern  corner,  we  stopped  at  a 
tea-house  to  take  some  refreshment.  A company  of  Chinese 
of  the  middle  class  in  the  white  garb  of  mourning,  were  wait- 
ing there  to  attend  the  funeral  of  some  friend.  The  host 
brought  us  steaming  cups  of  tea  or  rather  tea-stew,  very  strong 
and  invigorating,  and  a crisp  sort  of  cake  seasoned  with  pork 
and  sugar.  Some  of  the  Chinese  entered  into  conversation 
with  Mr.  Bonney,  in  a good-humored  friendly  way,  but  one 
young  dandy  stretched  himself  upon  the  bench  beside  our  ta- 
ble, and  indulged  in  some  contemptuous  remarks  on  foreigners. 
I was  well  satisfied  to  be  ignorant  of  the  language,  for  his  man- 
ner was  so  insolent,  that  I could  not  have  replied  with  the 
same  mildness  and  prudence  as  my  companion. 

The  suburbs  now  ceased,  and  the  open  cultivated  country 
reached  to  the  foot  of  the  city  wall.  To  the  east  extended  a 
fertile  plain,  dotted  with  villages,  as  far  as  the  White  Cloud 
Hills,  whose  barren  summits  arose  in  the  distance.  We  kept 
on,  up  a little  valley  to  some  spi  ings  under  a hill  on  the  north- 


VIEW  FROM  THE  FORT 


497 


ern  side  of  the  city,  which  supply  the  only  good  water  to  be 
had.  They  gush  up,  strong  and  abundant,  from  the  bottom  of 
the  dell,  which  was  crowded  with  water-carriers,  going  to  and 
from  the  gates.  The  hill  is  crowned  with  a fort  which  com- 
pletely commands  the  city.  It  was  taken  without  dif&culty 
by  Lord  Gough,  during  the  English  war,  and  every  prepa- 
ration was  made  to  open  a bombardment,  when  the  ransom  of 
$5,000,000,  tendered  by  the  Chinese  merchants,  was  offered  and 
accepted.  There  is  now  a small  garrison  within  it,  but  the  sen- 
tinel who  stood  at  the  entrance,  hastily  retreated  within  the 
walls  as  we  approached,  and  did  not  make  his  appearance  again 
until  after  we  had  left. 

The  view  from  the  fort  is  very  fine,  taking  in  all  of  Canton, 
the  course  of  the  Pearl  River  from  Whampoa  to  the  mountain- 
ous region  in  the  west,  the  White  Cloud  Hills,  and  the  rich 
delta  of  the  river,  stretching  away  to  the  Bocca  Tigris.  The 
mountains  which  surround  this  wide  landscape  are  bleak  and 
barren,  and  contrast  strongly  with  the  garden-like  beauty  of  the 
plain.  The  broad  arms  of  the  river,  dotted  with  boats  and 
junks ; the  many  villages,  half-hidden  among  groves  of  fruit 
trees;  the  lofty  pagodas  that  rise  here  and  there  from  the 
banks ; and  the  crowded  city  itself  directly  under  the  eye — 
the  central  point  which  unites  the  interest  of  all  these  scattered 
objects — combine  to  form  a panorama  unique  but  thoroughly 
Chinese  in  its  character,  and  affording  as  good  a type  of  Chinese 
scenery  as  is  readily  accessible  to  foreigners.  The  northern 
part  of  Canton  rests  upon  the  side  of  a hill,  whose  summit  is 
crowned  by  a great  square  red  temple  four  stories  in  height. 
A slender  pagoda,  towards  the  river,  is  the  only  other  prominent 
architectural  object.  About  one  third  of  the  space  with  the 


498 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN 


walls  is  taken  up  with  gardens.  We  did  not  remain  long  upon 
the  hill,  which  is  in  bad  repute,  on  account  of  the  robberies 
committed  in  its  vicinity.  After  descending  to  a little  village^ 
and  passing  several  wet  fields  of  lotus  and  the  taro  plant,  we 
came  again  to  the  filth  and  crowds  of  the  outer  city,  and  finally 
reached  our  starting-point,  after  an  absence  of  three  hours. 

The  Feast  of  Lanterns  (as  it  is  called,  though  incorrectly 
by  foreigners)  was  celebrated  during  my  visit,  but  with  much 
less  splendor  than  usual,  on  account  of  the  disturbed  state  of 
society.  The  flower-boats  on  the  river  were  all  ablaze  with 
lamps,  and  the  shops  in  the  principal  streets  were  gaily  illumi- 
nated. There  were  also  “ sing-songs  ” (theatrical  performan- 
ces), discordant  instruments  of  noise,  and  other  sources  of  Chi- 
nese pleasure,  but  the  whole  display  was  irregular,  barbaric, 
and  utterly  devoid  of  grand  effect.  When  I called  to  mind 
the  fiery  mosques  of  Constantinople,  and  the  cannon  thunders 
of  the  Night  of  Predestination,  the  Feast  of  Lanterns  seemed 
a farce  in  comparison. 

I was  much  interested  in  a visit  to  Dr.  Parker’s  Chinese 
Hospital.  Some  idea  of  the  good  accomplished  by  this  institu- 
tion may  be  gathered  from  the  fact,  that  since  its  establishment 
more  than  forty-nine  thousand  persons  have  been  admitted. 
Dr.  Parker  himself  is  a very  accomplished  surgeon;  his  gal- 
lery of  portraits  exhibiting  the  tumors  which  he  has  removed, 
and  the  collection  of  stones  which  illustrates  his  skill  in  lithot- 
omy, would  be  treasures  to  the  Museum  of  a Medical  College. 
His  operations  in  lithotomy,  especially,  have  been  remarkably 
successful,  as  he  has  lost  but/owr  out  of,  I believe,  thirty-two 
patients. 

While  in  Canton  I enjoyed  the  hospitality  of  Mr.  Gideon 


LEAVING  CHINA. 


499 


Nye,  Jr.,  one  of  the  prominent  American  merchants,  who  is  well 
known  at  home  through  his  taste  for  Art.  My  stay  was  very 
pleasant  and  interesting,  and  I could  have  agreeably  prolonged 
it ; hut  I was  not  sorry  when  my  last  night  on  Chinese  soil 
arrived.  The  reader  may  have  rightly  conjectured  that  I am 
not  partial  to  China,  but  this  much  I must  admit : it  is  the 
very  best  country  in  the  world — to  leave. 


CHAPTER 


XLI, 


THE  INDIAN  ISIiES. 


Farewell  to  China — Whampoa — A Musical  Good-Bye — The  Bogue  Forts — The  Last 
Link — The  China  Sea — Life  on  the  Sea  Serpent — The  Straits  of  Mindoro — Pictu- 
resque Islands — Calm  Sailing— Moonlight  in  the  Tropics — “ Summer  Isles  of  Eden  ” 
—The  Sooloo  Sea— The  Cagayanes  Islands— Straits  of  Basllan— Mindanao — A Na- 
tive Proa — The  Sea  of  Celebes — Entering  the  Straits  of  Macassar — Crossing  the 
Equator — Off  Celebes — Lazy  Life — ^The  Java  Sea — Passing  the  Thousand  Islands— 
Approach  to  the  Straits  of  Sunda. 


On  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  September  we  left  Canton  in 
the  Macao  steamer,  which  had  been  chartered  to  tow  the  Sea 
Serpent  out  to  sea.  We  went  swiftly  down  the  crowded  stream, 
passing  the  Factories,  the  temple  of  Ilo-nan,  and  the  floating 
houses  of  the  aquatic  Cantonese,  and  soon  reached  the  long 
stretch  of  green  paddy-fields  extending  to  Whampoa.  The  day 
was  shady,  but  with  a soft,  cool,  clear  atmosphere,  which  mel- 
lowed and  deepened  the  rich  colors  of  the  landscape.  The  White 
Cloud  Hills  rose  high  over  the  undulating  region  between, 
which,  with  its  groves,  villages  and  tall  pagodas,  refreshed  the 
eye,  but  took  not  the  least  hold  on  the  heart.  I found  myself 
admiring  its  beauty  with  a cold,  passionless  appreciation,  un- 
connected with  the  slightest  regret  at  leaving  it,  or  the  least 


A MUSICAL  GOOD-BYE. 


501 


wish  to  behold  it  again.  There  may  he  scenes  in  China  fair 
to  look  upon,  hut  they  are  ennobled  by  no  lofty  human  interest, 
lighted  by  no  gleam  of  poetry  or  art. 

Near  the  mouth  of  Lob  Creek  we  passed  a tall  pagoda, 
and  another  within  a mile  or  two  of  Whampoa,  crowning  the 
top  of  a verdant  knoll.  The  latter  was  built  of  dark-red 
stone,  and  with  the  ivy  and  wild  shrubs  waving  from  the  horned 
roofs  of  its  nine  stories,  was  really  a picturesque  object.  The 
shipping  of  Whampoa  was  now  visible,  and  in  less  than  half  an 
hour  we  lay  alongside  of  the  good  clipper  which  was  thence- 
forth to  be  our  ocean  home.  Whampoa  is  a long,  scattering 
Chinese  town,  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  river.  The  foreign 
vessels  anchored  in  the  reach,  for  a distance  of  more  than  a 
mile,  give  the  place  a lively  air,  and  the  low,  conical  hills 
which  rise  from  the  shore,  crowned  here  and  there  with  Chinese 
buildings,  relieve  the  tameness  of  the  swampy  soil  on  which 
the  town  is  built.  We  were  obliged  to  wait  for  the  flood-tide, 
which  detained  us  two  hours. 

The  anchor  was  cheerily  lifted  at  last,  and  we  got  under  way 
for  New  York.  In  going  down  the  river  we  had  a fair  view 
of  all  the  vessels  of  war  anchored  in  Blenheim  Beach,  which 
was  only  half  a mile  distant,  on  our  right.  The  Mississippi 
lay  nearest  to  us,  and  as  we  drew  near  the  opening  of  the 
reach  one  of  her  boats  appeared,  with  the  band  on  board,  float- 
ing side  by  side  with  us,  while  they  played  our  stirring  national 
airs.  It  was  a parting  compliment  from  Capt.  Lee  to  Lieut. 
Contee.  The  Sea  Serpent’s  crew  gathered  on  the  forecastle, 
gave  three  hearty  cheers,  which  the  Mississippi’s  men  answered 
with  a will,  standing  up  in  the  boat.  This  was  our  last  glimpse 
of  naval  life,  and  a fitting  farewell  to  the  service.  I looked  in 


502 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


vaiu  for  the  Susquehamia,  which  was  expected  from  Cumsing 
moun,  but  she  had  not  arrived.  I would  have  given  much  for 
another  sight  of  her  big  hull  and  familiar  spars ; and,  better 
still,  for  a hail  from  some  of  her  jolly  men. 

The  river  now  became  broader  and  frequently  expanded  on 
either  side  into  great  arms,  some  of  which  extended  for  many 
miles  into  the  country.  We  passed  the  first  bar,  which  was 
created  by  the  Chinese  sinking  junks  to  prevent  the  English 
from  reaching  Canton.  A high  hill  on  the  southern  shore,  near 
the  second  bar,  which  we  reached  about  5 p.  m.,  is  crowned 
with  a pagoda  150  feet  high,  which  is  visible  at  a great  dis- 
tance. Beyond  this,  the  river  again  expands,  to  be  finally 
contracted  into  a narrow  pass,  at  the  Bocca  Tigris,  which  we 
fortunately  reached  before  dusk.  It  is  a fine,  bold  gateway 
formed  by  two  mountainous  islands,  which  leave  a passage  of 
about  half  a mile  between  them.  There  are  several  Chinese 
batteries  on  either  hand,  but  they  are  more  formidable  in 
appearance  than  in  reality. 

By  the  time  we  had  passed  the  Bogue,  it  was  dark.  The 
tide  was  now  in  our  favor,  and  we  stood  away  towards  Lintin. 
We  had  a large  number  of  friends,  including  Messrs.  Nye  and 
Tuckerman  of  Canton,  at  dinner  in  the  cabin,  but  about  10  p 
M.  they  all  bade  us  good-bye  and  returned  aboard  the  steamer. 
We  were  cast  off  a little  after  midnight,  and  taking  a north- 
east wind  ran  down  past  the  Ladrrnes  at  the  rate  of  ten  knots 
an  hour.  When  I went  on  deck  in  the  morning,  China  was  no 
longer  visible.  The  weather  was  dull  and  rainy,  but  we  con- 
tinued to  make  good  progress.  On  the  afternoon  of  the  12th, 
by  which  time  we  had  made  300  miles,  a violent  squall  came 
on  tearing  our  maintop-gallant  sail  and  jib  into  ribbons.  Heavy 


LIFE  ON  THE  SEA  SERPENT. 


503 


showers  of  rain  succeeded,  and  during  the  night  the  wind  grad- 
ually settled  into  the  regular  south-west  monsoon.  By  noon  the 
following  day,  we  were  in  Lat.  14°  54''  N. — consequently  south 
of  the  Paracel  Beefs,  and  beyond  the  latitude  of  violent 
typhoons.  As  the  wind  still  blew  steadily  from  the  south-west, 
Captain  Howland  determined  to  change  his  course  and  make 
for  the  Straits  of  Mindoro,  Basilan  and  Macassar,  hoping  to 
get  the  south-east  trade  wind  in  the  Java  Sea,  and  thus  make 
a better  run  to  Angier  than  by  slowly  beating  down  the  China 
Sea. 

I found  the  Sea  Serpent  an  excellent  sea-boat,  in  every 
respect.  She  behaved  admirably  on  a wind,  slipping  through 
the  water  so  softly  that  we  would  not  have  suspected  the  speed 
she  made.  Although  so  sharp  in  the  bows,  she  was  very  dry, 
scarcely  a spray  flying  over  the  forecastle.  In  addition  to 
Lieut.  Contee  and  myself,  there  was  but  one  other  passenger, 
Mr.  Parkman  of  Boston.  Capt.  Howland  was  accompanied  by 
his  wife  and  child.  The  officers  were  intelligent  and  obliging, 
and  our  party,  though  small,  was  large  enough  to  be  agreeable. 
We  were  all  well  satisfied  with  the  prospect  of  a cruise  among 
the  Indian  Isles,  and  therefore  welcomed  the  Captain’s  decision. 

At  sunset,  on  the  14th,  we  made  land  ahead,  at  a considerable 
distance.  As  the  passage  required  careful  navigation,  on  account 
of  its  abundant  reefs,  we  stood  off  and  on  until  the  next  morn- 
ing. Passing  the  North  and  North-west  Bocks,  the  mountain- 
ous island  of  Busvagon,  or  Camelianes,  opened  to  the  south 
and  east,  its  lofty  hills,  and  deep,  picturesque  valleys  clothed  in 
eternal  green.  The  rocky  islets  which  bristled  between  us  and 
its  shores  exhibited  the  most  striking  peculiarities  of  form  and 
structure.  Some  shot  upwards  like  needless  or  obelisks  from 


504 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


the  dark-blue  sea ; others  rose  in  heavy  masses,  like  the  t irrets 
or  bastions  of  a fortress,  crowned  with  tufts  of  shrubbery.  The 
rock  of  which  they  were  formed  was  of  a dark  slate  color,  in 
vertical  strata,  which  appeared  to  have  been  violently  broken 
off  at  the  top,  bearing  a strong  resemblance  to  columnar  basalt. 

Busvagon  stretched  along,  point  beyond  point,  for  a distance 
of  forty  or  fifty  miles.  The  land  rose  with  a long,  gentle  slope 
from  the  beaches  of  white  sand,  and  in  the  distance  stood  the 
vapory  peaks  of  high  mountains.  We  sailed  slowly  along  the 
outer  edge  of  the  islets,  to  which  the  larger  island  made  a 
warm,  rich  background.  The  air  was  deliciously  mild  and  pure, 
the  sea  smooth  as  glass,  and  the  sky  as  fair  as  if  it  had  never 
been  darkened  by  a storm.  Except  the  occasional  gambols  of 
the  bonitas,  or  the  sparkle  of  a flying-fish  as  he  leaped  into  the 
sun,  there  was  no  sign  of  life  on  these  beautiful  waters. 

Towards  noon  the  gentle  south-east  breeze  died  away ; and 
we  lay  with  motionless  sails  upon  the  gleaming  sea.  The  sun 
hung  over  the  mast-head  and  poured  down  a warm  tropical  lan- 
guor, which  seemed  to  melt  the  very  marrow  in  one’s  bones. 
For  four  hours  we  lay  becalmed,  when  a light  ripple  stole  along 
from  the  horizon,  and  we  saw  the  footsteps  of  the  welcome 
breeze  long  before  we  felt  it.  G-radually  increasing,  it  bore  us 
smoothly  and  noiselessly  away  from  Busvagon  and  the  rocky 
towers  and  obelisks,  and  at  sunset  we  saw  the  phantomlike  hills 
of  the  southern  point  of  the  island  of  Mindoro,  forty  miles 
distant.  The  night  was  filled  with  the  glory  of  the  full  moon 
— a golden  tropical  radiance,  nearly  as  lustrous,  and  far  more 
soft  and  balmy,  than  the  light  of  day — a mystic,  enamored 
bridal  of  the  sea  and  sky.  The  breeze  was  so  gentle  as  to  be 
felt,  and  no  more ; the  ship  slid  as  silently  through  the  water 


PICTURESQUE  ISLANDS. 


50i 


H8  if  her  keel  were  muffled  in  silk ; and  the  sense  of  repose  in 
motion  was  so  sweet,  so  grateful  to  my  travel-wearied  senses, 
that  I remained  on  deck  until  midnight,  steeped  in  a bath  of 
pure  indolent  happiness. 

Our  voyage  the  next  day  was  still  more  delightful.  From 
dawn  until  dark  we  went  slowly  loitering  past  the  lovely  islands 
that  gem  those  remote  seas,  until  the  last  of  them  sank  astern 
in  the  flush  of  sunset.  Nothing  can  be  more  beautiful  than 
their  cones  of  never-fading  verdure,  draped  to  the  very  edge 
of  the  waves,  except  where  some  retreating  cove  shows  its 
beach  of  snow-white  sand.  On  the  larger  ones  are  woody  val- 
leys, folded  between  the  hills,  and  opening  upon  long  slopes, 
overgrown  with  the  cocoa-palm,  the  mango,  and  many  a strange 
and  beautiful  tree  of  the  tropics.  The  light,  lazy  clouds,  suf- 
fused with-  a crimson  flush  of  heat,  that  floated  slowly  through 
the  upper  heavens,  cast  shifting  shadows  upon  the  masses  of 
foliage,  and  deepened,  here  and  there,  the  dark-purple  hue  of 
the  sea.  Retreating  behind  one  another  until  they  grew  dim 
and  soft  as  clouds  on  the  horizon,  and  girdled  by  the  most 
tranquil  of  oceans,  these  islands  were  real  embodiments  of  the 
joyous  fancy  of  Tennyson,  in  his  dream  of  the  Indies,  in 
“ Locksley  Hall.”  Here,  although  the  trader  comes,  and  the 
flags  of  the  nations  of  far  continents  sometimes  droop  in  the 
motionless  air — here  are  still  the  heavy-blossomed  bowers  and 
the  heavy-fruited  trees,  the  summer  isles  of  Eden  in  their  pur- 
ple spheres  of  sea.  The  breeze  fell  nearly  to  a calm  at  noon- 
day, but  our  vessel  still  moved  noiselessly  southward,  and  island 
after  island  faded  from  green  to  violet,  and  from  violet  to  the 
dim,  pale  blue  that  finally  blends  with  the  air. 

The  next  day  was  most  taken  up  with  calms.  The  captain 

22 


506 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


and  mates  spent  much  of  their  time  in  shifting  the  sails  so  as  tc 
get  the  most  of  the  faint  wind-flaws  that  reached  us,  watching 
for  distant  ripple-lines  on  the  ocean,  or  whistling  over  the  rail. 
In  the  afternoon  land  was  descried  ahead — the  Cagayanes 
Islands,  a little  group  in  the  middle  of  the  Sooloo  Sea.  We 
passed  between  them  about  four  o’clock,  and  had  a fair  view 
on  either  hand.  The  shores  are  smooth  walls  of  perpendicular 
rock,  about  a hundred  feet  in  height,  and  almost  completely 
hidden  under  a curtain  of  rich  vegetation.  Here  and  there  the 
rock  falls  away,  leaving  little  beaches  of  sand,  behind  which  rise 
thick  forests  of  cocoa  or  palm.  I could  distinguish  with  the 
glass  half  a dozen  bamboo  huts  on  the  shore.  A few  boats 
were  drawn  up  on  the  beach.  The  islands  looked  so  lovely  as 
we  passed  them,  in  the  soft  lustre  of  sunset,  that  I longed  for 
a day  of  calm,  to  go  ashore  where  so  few  Europeans  have  ever 
set  foot,  and  have  a glance  at  the  primitive  barbarism  of  the 
natives.  The  sea  still  remained  as  smooth  as  a mountain  lake. 
We  saw  great  quantities  of  drift-wood,  upon  which  boobies  and 
cormorants  perched  in  companies  of  two  and  three,  and  watched 
for  fish  as  they  drifted  lazily  along.  In  the  neighborhood  of 
the  islands  we  frequently  saw  striped  snakes,  four  or  five  feet 
in  length. 

The  lofty  coast  of  Mindanao,  one  of  the  largest  of  the 
Philippine  Islands,  was  visible  at  sunrise,  on  the  19th.  Before 
long  Basilan  appeared  in  the  south-east,  and  by  noon  we  were 
in  the  mouth  of  the  strait.  The  observation  gave  Lat.  7®  3^  N., 
Long.  121°  E.  Two  vessels  were  descried  ahead,  a ship  and  a 
brig,  both  lying  close  in  to  Mindanao,  and  apparently  becalmed. 
In  fact,  we  could  easily  trace  a belt  of  calm  water  near  the 


STRAITS  OF  BASILAN. 


507 


shore,  caused  by  the  high  hills  of  the  island,  which  prevented 
the  southern  breeze  from  “ blowing  home.” 

Four  or  five  small  islands — the  commencement  of  the  Soo- 
loo  Archipelago — lie  to  the  westward  of  Basilan.  The  strait 
is  from  six  to  eight  miles  wide  at  its  narrowest  part,  and  toler- 
ably free  from  dangerous  points.  To  the  north,  the  hills  of 
Mindanao,  completely  mantled  with  forests,  rise  grandly  to  the 
height  of  near  two  thousand  feet.  The  shore  presents  an  almost 
impenetrable  array  of  cocoa  palms.  There  were  two  or  three 
cleared  spaces  on  the  hills,  and  as  we  entered  further  into  the 
strait,  we  could  see  with  the  glass  not  only  somQ  native  huts, 
but  the  houses  of  Spanish  residents  on  the  shore.  Still  fur- 
ther, at  the  head  of  a little  bight,  and  protected  by  a level 
island  of  palms,  we  saw  the  Spanish  settlement  of  Sambooan- 
gan.  There  were  several  large  two-story  houses,  and  a white 
chapel,  before  which  lay  half  a dozen  small  craft  at  anchor. 
A native  proa  put  out  from  the  shore,  some  distance  ahead  of 
us,  and  we  at  first  thought  she  was  making  for  us  with  a load 
of  fruit.  As  she  came  nearer  she  hoisted  a huge  yellow  flag, 
with  a red  ornamental  border,  and  some  large  red  characters  in 
Chinese.  There  were  six  persons  on  board,  and  he  who 
appeared  to  be  the  leader  wore  a yellow  robe.  The  boat  had 
an  outrigger  on  each  side,  and  was  propelled  by  paddles  and  a 
light  canvas  sail.  She  came  near  us,  but  to  our  disappointment 
dropped  astern  and  passed  over  to  Basilan. 

The  latter  island  is  remarkably  picturesque  in  its  appear- 
ance, its  long,  wavy  slopes  of  foliage  shooting  into  tall  conical 
peaks.  In  passing  through  the  strait,  these  piles  of  eternal 
vegetation  on  either  hand  have  an  enchanting  effect.  I took 
sketches  of  both  islands,  which  preserved  their  outlines,  but 


508 


INDIA,  CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


could  not  give  the  least  idea  of  their  richness  and  beauty.  We 
had  a light  westerly  wind,  with  the  tide  in  our  favor,  and  just 
as  the  moon  arose  like  a globe  of  gold,  passed  the  eastern  mouth 
of  the  strait  and  entered  the  Sea  of  Celebes. 

We  now  experienced  a succession  of  calms  and  baffling 
winds  for  five  days,  as  we  stood  south  by  west  across  the  Sea  of 
Celebes,  making  for  the  Straits  of  Macassar.  There  was  an  oc- 
casional squall  of  an  hour  or  two,  which  gave  us  a “ slant  ” in 
the  right  direction.  The  wind  at  last  shifted,  so  that  we  were 
able  to  run  upon  our  course  close-hauled,  and  on  the  afternoon 
of  the  25th  we  caught  a distant  and  misty  view  of  the  Haring 
Islands.  The  next  morning  at  sunrise,  we  saw  the  lofty  head- 
land of  Point  Kaneoongan,  in  Borneo,  at  the  western  entranc#* 
of  the  straits.  Cape  Donda,  in  Celebes,  thirty  miles  distant,  ap- 
peared for  a short  time,  but  was  soon  hidden  by  showers.  On 
the  27th,  at  noon,  we  were  in  0®  5^  S.,  having  crossed  the 
Equator  about  11  a.  m.,  and  thenceforth,  for  four  days,  we 
slowly  loitered  along  through  the  Straits  of  Macassar,  with 
light,  variable  winds,  and  seasons  of  dead,  sultry  calm.  The 
mercury  stood  at  88*^  in  the  coolest  part  of  the  ship.  The  sea 
was  as  smooth  as  a mirror,  and  as  glossy  and  oily  in  its  dark- 
blue  gleam,  as  if  the  neighboring  shores  of  Macassar  had 
poured  upon  it  libations  of  their  far-famed  unguent  Occa 
sionally  we  saw  the  shores  of  Celebes,  but  so  distant  and  dim 
that  it  was  rather  like  a dream  of  land  than  land  itself.  We 
walked  the  deck  languidly,  morning  and  evening,  sat  imder  the 
the  awning  by  day,  alternately  dozing  and  smoking  and  read- 
ing, watched  the  drift-wood  floating  by — mangrove  logs,  with 
companies  of  sea-fowl  making  their  fishing  excursions —ate 


PASSING  THE  THOUSAND  ISLANDS. 


509 


for  occupation,  and  slept  with  difficulty : and  thus  the  days 
passed. 

On  the  2d  of  October  a light  south  wind  reached  us,  and 
we  left  the  dim,  far-off  headlands  of  Celebes — the  land  of  san- 
dal-wood groves  and  birds  of  Paradise.  We  made  the  twin 
rocks  called  “ The  Brothers,”  off  the  southern  point  of  Borneo, 
and  about  noon  passed  between  the  islands  of  Moresses  and 
Little  Pulo  Laut.  The  latter  are  noble  piles  of  verdure, 
rising  a thousand  feet  from  the  water,  in  long  undulating  out- 
lines. The  Java  Sea  is  a beautiful  piece  of  water,  compara- 
tively free  from  reefs  and  shoals,  and  rarely  exceeding  forty 
fathoms  in  depth,  so  that  vessels  may  anchor  in  any  part  of  it. 
Its  surface  is  as  smooth  as  a lake,  and  even  when  making  eight 
or  nine  knots,  there  was  scarcely  any  perceptible  motion  in  the 
vessel.  The  temperature  was  delicious,  and  the  south  wind  so 
bland,  sweet  and  elastic,  after  the  sultry,  surcharged  atmos- 
phere of  Macassar  Straits,  that  the  change  was  perceptible  in 
the  temper  and  spirits  of  all  on  board. 

We  had  light  but  favorable  winds,  and  for  four  days  more 
stood  across  the  Java  Sea,  averaging  about  100  miles  a day. 
The  water  was  alive  with  snakes  and  flying-fish.  Passing  the 
Lubeck  Islands  and  Carimon  Java,  we  approached  so  near  the 
Javanese  shores  that  on  the  evening  of  the  6th  the  delicious 
land-breeze  came  off  to  us,  bringing  an  odor  of  moist  earth  and 
vegetable  exhalations.  We  expected  to  have  a glimpse  of  Ba- 
tavia, but  made  considerable  northing,  so  that  we  lost  sight  of 
the  low  Java  coast  before  morning.  At  noon  we  made  the 
Thousand  Islands,  and  as  they  have  been  but  very  imperfectly 
explored,  we  were  obliged  to  go  completely  to  the  northward 
nf  them,  instead  of  taking  one  of  the  numerous  channels  be- 


610 


INDIA,  CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


tween.  They  are  small  and  low,  but  thickly  covered  with 
trees,  among  which  the  cocoa-palm  predominates.  I counted 
thirty-three  islands  within  a sweep  of  a hundred  degrees  The 
wind  being  dead  ahead,  we  stood  on  the  northern  tack  until  we 
made  the  North  Watcher,  and  then  fetched  a S.  by  E.  course, 
the  current  setting  us  to  windward.  The  same  evening,  how- 
ever, the  wind  changed,  and  before  I turned  into  my  berth,  we 
were  thirty  miles  off  Angler  Point,  the  last  gateway  interven- 
ing between  us  and  the  Indian  Ocean.  We  had  been  twenty- 
eight  days  in  making  the  voyage  from  Whampoa — a distance. 
Qs  we  sailed,  of  2,613  miles. 


CHAPTER  XLII. 


ABOUND  THE  CAPE. 

Entering  the  Straits  of  Sunda — Malay  Boats — The  Mangosteen — Bargaining  with  tRe 
Natives — Scenery  -)t  the  Straits — Angier — Passing  the  Straits — ^Death  on  Board— 
The  Indian  Ocean— A Submarfne  Earthquake — A Tropical  Sunset — A Fatal  Escape 
—The  Trade  Wind— Mozambique  Channel— The  Coast  of  Africa— Doubling  the 
Cape — Southern  Constellations — Distant  View  of  Table  Mountain — On  the  Atlantic 
—The  Trades  again — Restoration — A Slaver. 

I AROSE  at  sunrise  on  the  morning  of  the  8th  of  October^  in 
time  to  see  the  Sea  Serpent  enter  the  Straits  of  Sunda.  On 
our  left,  five  or  six  miles  distant,  arose  the  lofty  headland  of 
Point  St.  Nicholas ; in  front  was  the  rock  called  “ The  Cap,’ 
and  the  island  of  “ ’Thwart-the-Way,”  while  the  mountains 
of  Sumatra  were  barely  visible  far  to  the  west.  We  were 
scarcely  abreast  of  the  headland  when  two  native  prahus,  or 
boats,  were  seen  coming  off  to  us,  the  boatmen  laboring  at  their 
sweeps  with  a sharp,  quick  cry,  peculiar  to  semi-barbarous 
people.  One  of  the  boats  was  soon  alongside,  with  a cargo  of 
yams,  plantains  and  fowls,  with  such  fancy  articles  as  shells, 
monkeys,  parroquets  and  Java  sparrows.  The  captain  and 
crew  were  Malays,  and  nearly  all  spoke  English  more  or  less 
fluently.  The  former  had  an  account-book,  showing  his  deal- 


612 


INDIA,  CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


ings  with  ships,  and  a printed  register  from  the  Dutch  Grovern 
ment,  containing  notices  of  the  vessels  called  upon  in  the  straits 
We  were  gratified  to  find  that  we  had  not  been  beaten,  the 
shortest  passage  from  Whampoa,  previous  to  our  own,  being 
thirty  days. 

The  second  boat  soon  arrived,  and  between  the  two  Capt. 
Howland  managed  to  procure  about  fifteen  ewt.  of  yams,  with 
abundant  supplies  of  potatoes,  fowls,  and  paddy.  The  fruits 
they  brought  off  were  plantains,  cocoa-nuts,  ripe  and  green,  and 
a few  mangosteensj  which  were  then  going  out  of  season.  The 
latter  were  mostly  rotten,  but  the  few  fresh  ones  which  we 
picked  out  were  enough  to  convince  me  that  its  fame  as  the 
most  exquisite  of  all  fruits  had  not  been  overrated.  The  very 
look  of  the  snow-white  pulp,  softly  imbedded  in  its  thick,  juicy, 
crimson  husk,  is  refreshing ; and  its  melting  coolness  and  sweet- 
ness, relieved  by  the  faintest  mixture  of  a delicious  acid  flavor, 
makes  it  the  very  nectar  and  ambrosia  of  the  vegetable  world. 
Certainly  no  other  fruit  is  comparable  to  it  in  flavor  and  lus- 
ciousness. 

While  the  boat  went  back  to  Angier  for  fresh  supplies  of 
paddy  and  other  necessaries — an  arrangement  which  deprived 
us  of  all  chance  of  landing  there — we  slowly  drifted  down  the 
straits  with  the  tide,  past  Cap  Dock  and  towards  ’Thwart-the- 
Way.  I was  charmed  with  the  beauty  of  the  Javanese  shore. 
Low  hills,  completely  covered  with  foliage,  rose  from  the  water, 
with  ascending  upland  slopes  beyond,  and  groups  of  lofty  moun- 
tains in  the  background.  In  the  almost  interminable  wealth 
of  tropical  vegetation  which  covered  the  land,  the  feathery 
cocoa-palm  and  the  massive  foliage  of  the  banyan  could  be 
plainly  recognized.  Passing  the  picturesque  headlands  and 


DEATH  ON  BOARD. 


513 


leafy  wildernesses  of  •‘’Thwart-the-Way,”  we  lay  toofF  Angier, 
waiting  for  the  boat.  We  were  nearly  two  miles  from  shore, 
but  the  scattered  Malay  village,  the  big  banyan-tree,  the 
Dutch  fort,  and  the  light-house,  with  its  tiled  roof,  were  all 
distinctly  visible.  The  lofty  promontory  of  Kajah  Bassa,  on 
the  Sumatra  side,  loomed  in  the  distance.  The  wind  was  blow- 
ing fresh  from  the  south,  and  favorable  for  us,  but  we  were 
obliged  to  lay  to  nearly  an  hour  for  our  supplies,  surrounded 
in  the  mean  time  with  small  boats,  from  which  we  purchased 
fish,  shells,  parroquets  and  J ava  sparrows.  At  last,  all  the 
fresh  stores  were  shipped,  and  we  ran  off  before  a spanking 
breeze.  Point  St.  Nicholas,  Button  Bock,  Angier  and  ’Thwart- 
the-Way  soon  disappeared,  and  the  superb  conical  peak  of  the 
island  of  Crockatoa  rose  on  our  lee  bow.  We  saw  Prince’s 
island  at  dusk,  on  the  weather  bow,  and  entered  the  Indian 
Ocean  before  the  twilight  had  wholly  faded — ^having  made  the 
passage  through  the  straits  under  unusually  favorable  auspices 

At  midnight  a man  who  had  been  shipped  by  the  Consul  at 
Canton,  died  on  board.  He  was  an  old  sailor,  who  had  fallen 
ill  at  Manilla,  whence  he  had  been  sent  to  China,  and  there,  by 
a blind  course  of  drunkenness  and  harlotry,  sealed  his  own 
doom.  There  was  no  hope  of  his  recovery,  for  he  had  himself 
cut  it  off.  It  was  a case  of  deliberate  suicide.  But  he  had 
probably  survived  all  friends,  all  associations  of  home,  all  manly 
energy  and  virtue,  all  pleasure  in  even  mere  animal  enjoyment, 
all  hope  of  any  thing  better  in  life,  and  accepted  death  with 
a reckless  insensibility  which  disarmed  it  of  fear.  He  was 
buried  at  noon  the  next  day,  Capt.  Howland  reading  the  funeral 
service. 

The  next  morning  the  change  from  the  island  seas  of  the 
22* 


514 


INDIA,  CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


Indies,  to  the  open  ocean,  was  at  once  manifest  in  the  dark-blue 
of  the  water,  the  paleness  of  the  sky,  the  clearness  and  bracing 
freshness  of  the  air,  the  wider  stretch  of  the  horizon,  and  the 
long,  deliberate  undulations  of  the  sea,  which  gave  our  vessel  a 
motion  we  had  not  felt  for  weeks  before.  Towards  noon  the 
wind  abated,  leaving  us  swaying  uneasily  to  and  fro,  with  the 
sails  flapping  heavily  against  the  masts. 

On  Monday  evening,  the  10th  of  October,  an  unusual  inci- 
dent happened  to  us.  The  night  was  clear,  and  cooler  than 
usual,  with  a light  breeze,  not  more  than  three  knots  at  most, 
and  the  same  heavy  swell  which  we  had  had  for  two  days  pre- 
vious. I was  walking  the  quarter-deck  with  Mr.  Cornell,  the 
second  mate,  about  a quarter  past  eleven  o’clock,  when  the  ship 
suddenly  stopped,  and  shook  so  violently  from  stem  to  stern  that 
every  timber  vibrated.  This  motion  was  accompanied  by  a dull 
rumbling,  or  rather  humming  noise,  which  seemed  to  come  from 
under  the  stern.  We  were  at  first  completely  puzzled  and 
bewildered  by  this  unexpected  circumstance,  but  a moment’s 
reflection  convinced  us  that  it  proceeded  from  an  earthquake. 
Capt.  Howland  and  Mr.  Contee  came  on  deck  just  in  time  to 
feel  a second  shock,  nearly  as  violent  as  the  first.  Those  who 
were  below  heard  a strong  hissing  noise  at  the  vessel’s  side. 
There  did  not  appear  to  be  any  unusual  agitation  of  the  water, 
notwithstanding  the  vessel  was  so  violently  shaken.  The 
length  of  time  which  elapsed,  from  first  to  last,  was  about  a 
minute  and  a half.  The  breeze  fell  immediately  afterwards, 
and  we  had  barely  steerage  way  until  morning. 

The  sunset  on  the  following  day  was  one  of  the  most  superb 
[ ever  saw.  The  sky  was  divided  into  alternate  bands  of  pure 
blue  and  brilliant  rose  color,  streaming  upwards  and  outwards 


THE  TRADE  WIND. 


515 


from  the  sun,  without  any  interfusion  or  blending  of  iheir  hues 
At  the  horizon  the  blue  became  amber-green,  and  then  gold, 
and  the  rose-tint  a burning  crimson.  A mountainous  line  of 
heavy  purple  clouds  formed  a foreground  along  the  horizon, 
behind  which  the  rayed  sky  shone  with  indescribable  splendor, 
doubling  its  gorgeous  hues  on  the  glassy  surface  of  the  sea. 
There  was  a dead  calm  all  night,  and  at  noon  the  reckoning 
showed  a progress  of  twenty-eight  miles  in  twenty-four  hours. 
The  swell  was  worse  than  ever,  and  the  sails  seemed  to  be  slowly 
beating  themselves  to  pieces  against  the  masts. 

On  the  morning  of  the  14th  I lost  a pretty  little  parroquet 
which  I had  bought  at  Angier.  He  had  become  so  tame  that 
I took  him  out  of  the  cage  to  feed,  and  while  to  all  appearance 
contentedly  eating  rice  in  my  hand,  he  shot  off  suddenly,  darted 
through  the  cabin  like  a flash,  and  out  of  one  of  the  stern-ports. 
He  was  gone  in  an  instant,  and  lost  to  me  for  ever — an  instance 
that  even  freedom  may  be  fatal.  The  afternoon  was  cloudy, 
with  frequent  squalls,  but  about  midnight  the  wind  came  up 
out  of  the  south  and  increased  at  such  a rate,  that  by  daylight 
we  were  making  twelve  knots  an  hour.  The  swell  was  still 
heavy,  the  sea  covered  with  sparkling  foam-caps,  and  the  sky 
streaked  with  flying  masses  of  cloud.  The  air  had  a bracing, 
exhilarating  freshness  and  steadiness,  which  led  us  to  hope  that 
we  had  at  last  caught  the  long-desired  “ trades.” 

Our  hopes  were  entirely  fulfilled.  My  log  of  the  voyage 
showed  the  consecutive  days’  runs  of  269,  235, 227, 261,  and  247 
miles,  during  which  time  the  ship  kept  on  her  course,  scarce 
shifting  a sail.  The  weather  was  gloriously  clear  and  brilliant, 
with  an  elastic  and  bracing  air,  and  a temperature  ranging  from 
70®  to  77®.  The  sunsets  were  magnificent;  and  at  night  the 


516 


INDIA,  CHINA  AND  JAIAN, 


new  Southern  constellations  united  themselves  to  the  superb 
array  of  Northern  stars,  reaching  from  Taurus  to  Gemini,  and 
formed  one  sublime  and  glittering  hand  across  the  heavens.  On 
the  21st,  the  wind  abated,  and  we  made  hut  148  miles,  but  it 
freshened  the  next  day,  and  so  held  until  the  29th,  when  we 
achieved  268  miles,  passed  the  latitude  of  Madagascar,  and 
entered  the  Mozambique  Channel.  Here  we  encountered  a 
heavy  cross-sea  and  head  current,  but  were  cheered  by  the  sight 
of  the  Cape  pigeon  and  albatross,  which  wheeled  and  swooped 
across  our  wake,  in  lines  as  perfectly  rhythmical  and  harmo- 
nious as  strains  of  music. 

On  the  1st  of  November,  the  wind  shifted  to  the  south-west, 
obliging  us  to  run  close-hauled.  In  the  evening  the  sea  became 
very  rough,  rolling  in  long,  heavy  swells,  which  indicated  that 
we  had  entered  the  ocean  current  setting  westward  around  the 
Cape.  The  ship  plunged  so  violently  that  we  came  down  to 
double-reefed  topsails,  and  logged  less  than  five  knots.  About 
four  o’clock  the  next  morning,  while  it  was  yet  perfectly  dark, 
the  air  was  so  pervaded  with  a fresh  earthy  smell,  that  the 
Captain  tacked  and  stood  off  on  a south-east  course.  Daylight 
showed  us  the  bold,  bleak  coast  of  Africa,  about  five  miles  dis- 
tant. We  had  made  the  land  about  fifty  miles  south  of  Port 
Natal.  At  nine  o’clock,  however,  we  tacked  again,  the  wind 
having  shifted  sufficiently  to  enable  us  to  clear  the  land, 
although  we  ran  within  eight  or  ten  miles  of  it  during  the  whole 
day.  The  coast  rose  in  long  ridges  of  bleak  hills,  which,  near 
the  sea,  were  streaked  with  fields  of  barren  sand,  but  further 
inland  were  green,  and  covered  with  thickets.  There  was  not 
the  slightest  sign  of  cultivation,  and  I should  have  considered 


SOUTHERN  CONSTELLATIONS. 


517 


it  uniDliabited,  but  for  several  large  fires  which  were  burning 
on  the  hills. 

The  next  morning,  November  3d,  found  us  becalmed  off  the 
Eastern  headland  of  Algoa  Bay.  It  was  a warm,  cloudless 
third  of  May  in  the  lower  hemisphere.  We  sounded,  and 
finding  fifty-five  fathoms,  endeavored  to  turn  the  calm  to 
account  by  fishing  for  cod ; but  after  sending  down  the  line 
four  times  and  having  two  hooks  bitten  off,  a breeze  came  out 
of  the  east  and  began  moving  us  forward  too  fast  for  the  sport. 
The  east  wind  nobly  befriended  us.  At  noon  on  the  4th  we 
reached  our  Southern  Ultima  Thule  (Lat.  35°  17''  S.),  and 
headed  westward  for  the  Atlantic,  fifty  miles  from  the  African 
coast.  Cape  Lagulhas,  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Conti- 
nent, was  97  miles  distant.  The  sky  was  cloudless,  the  sun 
warm,  the  air  deliciously  pure,  and  just  cool  enough  to  make 
walking  on  the  quarter-deck  enjoyable.  The  sea  was  smooth, 
and  no  sign  in  air  or  ocean  betokened  that  we  were  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  dreaded  Cape  of  Storms. 

At  night  the  young  moon,  Jupiter  and'  Venus,  if  not 
exactly  in  conjunction,  were  so  near  it  as  to  shine  as  with  the 
light  of  a single  planet.  But  two  or  three  degrees  distant 
from  each  other,  they  formed  a splendid  triangle,  the  effect  of 
which,  on  the  roseate  field  of  the  austral  sunset,  was  indescriba- 
bly magnificent.  The  sky  was  intensely  clear,  and  towards 
midnight  Taurus,  Orion,  Sirius,  Canopus,  the  Southern  Cross 
and  the  Magellan  Clouds  were  all  visible  at  once,  bewildering 
the  eye  with  their  lustre.  The  next  morning  we  could  plainly 
distinguish,  though  at  a great  distance,  the  vapors  hanging  over 
the  Cape  and  the  headlands  which  bound  False,  or  St,  Simon’s 
Bay,  on  the  east.  Towards  noon  they  were  lifted  by  the  sun, 


618 


INDIA,  CHINA  AND  JAPAN. 


and  the  far,  faint,  blue  outline  of  Table  Mountain,  <vith  that 
of  the  four  or  five  broken  peaks  forming  the  Cape,  was  dis- 
tinctly visible.  They  were  so  precisely  similar  to  the  pictures 
I had  seen,  and  to  that  in  my  imagination,  that  I recognized 
them  at  once,  with  a feeling  of  familiar  acquaintance.  They 
slowly  passed  astern,  and  at  four  o’clock  faded  out  of  sight 
behind  us.  And  so  farewell,  savage  old  Africa ! Shall  I ever 
see  your  shores  again  ? 

Now,  at  last,  I felt  that  our  prow  was  turned  homewards — 
that  our  keel  ploughed  the  Atlantic,  and  the  old  far-ofi*  Asian 
world  lay  behind  me.  We  were  again  sailing  for  the  North 
Star,  for  the  hemisphere  where  the  strong  heart  of  the  world 
beats,  and  will  beat  for  ever  ! We  were  on  our  own  side  of  the 
globe,  and  I felt — what  I had  not  before  felt,  since  leaving 
China — that  every  day  was  bringing  me  nearer  home.  The 
very  sky  was  changed ; the  sea  was  of  a deeper  blue ; the  waves 
danced  and  sparkled  with  a merrier  life ; the  clouds  gathered 
into  larger  masses  and  grouped  themselves  together  with  a sense 
of  power,  no  longer  like  the  slumberous  vapors  of  the  East, 
smouldering  languidly  away,  in  the  fires  of  the  sun.  There 
was  a prophecy  of  America  in  the  very  air,  and  I invoked  a 
threefold  benediction  on  the  cold  south-wind,  which  filled  every 
inch  of  our  towering  piles  of  canvas,  and  carried  us  through  the 
night  at  twelve  knots  an  hour,  dashing  the  ocean  into  phos- 
phoric foam. 

After  making  532  miles  in  two  days,  the  wind  abated,  and 
we  dragged  along  slowly  for  three  days  more,  through  the  vari- 
able latitudes,  before  taking  the  trade-winds  again.  The  alba- 
tross and  Cape  pigeon  followed  us,  past  their  usual  latitudes, 
until  the  increase  of  temperature,  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 


A SLAVER. 


519 


Tropics,  warned  them  to  return.  The  trade-wind,  which  we 
took  on  the  10th  of  November,  was  rather  sluggish,  and  even 
with  the  addition  of  sky-sails  and  royal  studding-sails,  our  pace 
was  languid.  The  sea  was  unusually  calm,  and  the  swells  over 
which  we  expected  to  be  “ rolling  down  to  St.  Helena,”  accord- 
ing to  the  sailor’s  ditty,  did  not  make  their  appearance. ' No 
voyaging  could  be  calmer  and  more  agreeable,  and  our  routine 
of  life  had  come  to  be  so  settled  and  unvarying,  that  the  day 
slipped  by  unawares.  I employed  this  period  of  quiet  and  iso- 
lation in  recalling  and  rewriting  a large  package  of  letters, 
descriptive  of  things  in  India  and  China,  which  had  gone  down 
in  the  steamer  Lewiston^  in  the  China  Sea.  Floating  over  that 
sleepy,  deserted  sea — for  we  saw  but  a single  vessel — was 
enabled  to  reproduce  the  Past  so  vividly  that  not  a feature  was 
wanting,  and,  almost  word  for  word,  the  lost  letters  were 
restored. 

On  the  morning  of  the  11th  we  passed  the  meridian  of 
Grreenwich,  and  began  to  count  western  longitude.  The  only 
other  incident  was  the  sight  of  a rakish-looking  brig,  which 
passed  several  miles  astern.  Mr.  Contee,  who  had  made  a 
cruise  in  the  African  Squadron,  at  once  pronounced  her  to  be  a 
slaver.  Her  movements  betrayed  an  evident  anxiety  to  avoid 


CHAPTEK  XLIII 


A DAY  AT  8T.  HELENA. 

Proposed  Call  at  St  Helena — First  View  of  the  Island — Its  Clifls — Approach  to  James* 
town — View  from  the  Anchorage — ^Landing — ^The  Town  and  Ravine— Ascending 
the  Gorge — ^Looking  Down — “ The  Briars” — Summit  of  the  Island — Pastoral  Land- 
scape— Sea- View — Approach  to  Longwood — Reception — The  Billiard-Room — Scene 
of  Napoleon’s  Death — His  Bedroom — Desecration  of  Longwood — The  New  Resi- 
dence— ^The  Longwood  Farm — The  “Crown  and  Rose” — National  Peculiarities— 
The  Grave  of  Napoleon — The  Old  Woman’s  Welcome — Condition  of  the  Grave- 
st Helena  Literature — The  Old  Woman's  Admirable  Story— Napoleon's  Spring- 
Return  to  Jamestown — Departure  from  the  Island. 


The  three  passengers  on  board  the  Sea  Serpent  were  greatly 
delighted  to  learn  from  Capt.  Howland,  on  the  day  when  we 
crossed  the  Tropic  of  Capricorn,  that  the  water  was  getting 
short,  and  he  had  therefore  decided  to  touch  at  St.  Helena  for 
a fresh  supply.  We  had  already  been  more  than  sixty  days 
on  board,  and  the  sea,  with  all  its  wonderful  fascination,  was 
growing  monotonous.  Here  was  an  event  which,  in  addition 
to  its  positive  interest,  would  give  us  at  least  five  days  of  anti- 
cipation and  a week  of  active  remembrance,  virtually  shorten- 
ing our  voyage  to  that  extent ; for  at  sea  we  measure  time  less 
by  the  calendar  than  by  our  individual  sense  of  its  duration. 


ST.  HELENA. 


521 


I have  spent  several  months  on  shipboard,  when,  according  to 
the  almanac,  barely  a fortnight  had  elapsed. 

The  trade-wind  bore  us  slowly  northward,  and  when  I went 
on  deck  at  sunrise,  on  the  14th  of  November,  St.  Helena  was 
in  sight,  about  twenty-five  miles  distant.  It  was  a dark-blue 
mass,  filling  about  twenty  degrees  of  the  horizon,  and  of  nearly 
uniform  elevation  above  the  sea,  but  gradually  resolved  itself 
into  sharper  and  more  broken  outlines  as  we  approached. 
Except  upon  a lofty  terrace  on  the  southern  side,  where  there 
was  a tinge  of  green  and  some  traces  of  fields,  the  coast  pre- 
sented a frightfully  rocky  and  inhospitable  appearance.  Nev- 
ertheless it  displayed  some  grand  effects  of  coloring.  The 
walls  of  naked  rock,  several  hundred  feet  high,  which  rose 
boldly  from  the  sea,  in  some  places  overhanging  their  base, 
were  tinted  as  by 

“ the  deep-blue  gloom 
Of  thunder-shower,” 

the  hollow  chasms  between  them  being  filled  with  gorgeous 
masses  of  purple-black  shadow,  under  the  sultry  clouds  which 
hung  over  the  island.  At  the  south-eastern  extremity  were 
two  pointed,  isolated  rocks,  probably  a hundred  feet  high. 
We  stood  around  the  opposite  extremity  of  the  island,  making 
for  the  port  of  Jamestown,  which  faces  the  north-west.  The 
coast  on  this  side  rises  into  two  bold  heads,  one  of  which  pro- 
jects outward  like  a gigantic  capstan,  while  the  other  runs 
slantingly  up  to  a pointed  top,  which  is  crowned  with  a signal 
station.  The  rock  has  a dark,  bluish-slate  color,  with  streaks 
of  a warm  reddish-brown,  and  the  strata,  burst  apart  in  the 
centre,  yet  slanting  upward  toward  each  other  like  the  sides  of 


522 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


a volcaDO,  tell  of  upheaval  by  some  tremendous  subterranean 
agency.  The  structure  of  the  island  is  purely  volcanic,  and, 
except  the  rock  of  Aden,  on  the  coast  of  Arabia,  I never  saw 
a more  forbidding  spot. 

The  breeze  increased  as  we  drew  near  the  island,  but  when 
we  ran  under  the  lee  of  the  great  cliffs,  fell  away  almost 
entirely,  so  that  we  drifted  lazily  along  within  half  a mile  of 
them.  At  length  a battery  hove  in  sight,  hewn  in  the  face  of 
the  precipice,  and  anchored  vessels,  one  by  one,  came  out 
behind  the  point.  We  stood  off  a little,  urged  along  by  occa- 
sional flaws  of  wind,  and  in  a short  time  the  shallow  bight 
which  forms  the  roadstead  of  St.  Helena  lay  before  us.  There 
was  another  battery  near  at  hand,  at  the  foot  of  a deep,  barren 
glen,  called  Rupert’s  Yalley,  from  which  a road,  notched  in  the 
rock,  leads  around  the  intervening  cliffs  to  the  gorge,  at  the 
bottom  of  which  Jamestown  is  built.  A sea-wall  across  the 
mouth  of  this  gorge,  a row  of  ragged  trees,  weather-beaten  by 
the  gales  of  the  Atlantic,  and  the  spire  of  a church,  were  all 
that  appeared  of  the  town.  The  walls  of  the  fort  crowned  the 
lofty  cliff  above,  and  high  behind  them  towered  the  signal 
station,  on  the  top  of  a conical  peak,  the  loftiest  in  the  island. 
The  stone  ladder  which  leads  from  the  tower  to  the  fort  was 
marked  on  the  face  of  the  cliff  like  a white  ribbon  unrolled 
from  its  top.  Inland,  a summit  covered  with  dark  pine-trees, 
from  the  midst  of  which  giimmeted  the  white  front  of  a coun- 
try mansion,  rose  above  the  naked  heights  of  the  shore.  This 
was  the  only  gleam  of  fertility  which  enlivened  the  terrible 
sterility  of  the  view. 

Further  in-shore  a few  gun-boats  and  water-boats  lay  at 
anchor,  and  some  fishing-skiffs  were  pulling  about.  As  we 


VISIT  TO  LONGWOOD. 


523 


forged  slowly  along  to  a good  anchoring  ground,  the  American 
consul  came  off,  followed  by  a hoarding-officer,  and  we  at  once 
received  permission  to  go  ashore  and  make  the  most  of  our 
short  stay.  The  consul’s  boat  speedily  conveyed  us  to  the  land- 
ing-place, at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  town.  Every  thing 
had  a dreary  and  deserted  air.  There  were  half-a-dozen  men 
and  hoys,  with  Portuguese  features  and  uncertain  complexions, 
about  the  steps,  a red-coated  soldier  at  a sentry-box,  and  two  or 
three  lonely-looking  individuals  under  the  weather-beaten  trees. 
Passing  a row  of  mean  houses,  built  against  the  overhanging 
rock,  a drawbridge  over  a narrow  moat  admitted  us  within  the 
walls.  A second  wall  and  gate,  a short  distance  further,  ushered 
us  into  the  public  square  of  Jamestown.  Even  at  its  outlet, 
the  valley  is  not  more  than  a hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide,  and 
the  little  town  is  crowded,  or  rather  jammed,  deep  in  its  bot- 
tom, between  nearly  perpendicular  cliffs,  seven  or  eight  hundred 
feet  in  height.  At  the  top  of  the  square  is  the  church,  a plain 
yellowish  structure,  with  a tall,  square,  pointed  spire ; and 
beyond  it  Market  street,  the  main  thoroughfare  of  the  little 
place,  opens  up  the  valley. 

A carriage — almost  the  only  one  in  Jamestown — was  pro- 
cured for  Mrs.  Howland ; my  fellow-passenger,  Parkman,  pro- 
vided himself  with  a saddle-horse,  and  we  set  out  for  Longwood. 
We  had  a mounted  Portuguese  postillion,  and  rattled  up  the 
steep  and  stony  main  street  in  a style  which  drew  upon  us  the 
eyes  of  all  Jamestown.  The  road  soon  left  the  town,  ascending 
the  right  side  of  the  ravine  by  a very  long  and  steep  grade. 
Behind  the  town  are  the  barracks  of  the  soldiery  and  their 
parade-ground — all  on  a cramped  and  contracted  scale ; then 
some  dreary  burial-grounds,  the  graves  in  which  resembled 


524 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


heaps  of  cinders ; then  a few  private  mansions,  and  green  gar 
den-patches,  winding  upwards  for  a mile  or  more.  The  depth 
and  narrowness  of  the  gorge  completely  shut  out  the  air ; the 
heat  was  radiated  powerfully  from  its  walls  of  black  volcanic 
rock,  and  the  bristling  cacti  and  yuccas  by  the  roadside,  with 
full-crowned  cocoa-palms  below,  gave  it  a fiery,  savage,  tropical 
character.  The  peak  of  the  signal-station  loomed  high  above 
us  from  the  opposite  side,  and  now  the  head  of  the  ravine — a 
precipice  several  hundred  feet  high,  over  which  fell  a silver 
thread  of  water — came  into  sight.  This  water  supplies  the 
town  and  shipping,  beside  fertilizing  the  gardens  in  the  bed  of 
the  ravine.  It  is  clear  as  crystal,  and  of  the  sweetest  and 
freshest  quality.  Looking  backward,  we  saw  the  spire  of  the 
little  church  at  the  bottom  projected  against  the  blue  plain  of 
ocean,  the  pigmy  hulls  of  the  vessels  in  the  roads,  and  a great 
triangular  slice  of  sea,  which  grew  wider  and  longer  as  we 
ascended,  until  the  horizon  was  full  fifty  miles  distant. 

Near  the  top  of  the  ravine  there  is  a natural  terrace  about 
a quarter  of  a mile  in  length,  lying  opposite  to  the  cascade.  It 
contains  a few  small  fields,  divided  by  scrubby  hedges,  and, 
near  the  further  end,  two  pleasant  dwelling-houses,  surrounded 
by  a garden  in  which  I saw  some  fine  orange-trees.  This  is 
“ The  Briars,”  memorable  for  having  been  Napoleon’s  first  res- 
idence on  the  island.  The  Balcombe  family  occupied  the 
larger  of  the  two  dwellings,  which  is  flanked  by  tall  Italian 
cypresses,  while  the  other  building,  which  was  then  a summer 
pavilion,  but  was  afterwards  enlarged  to  accommodate  the  Em- 
peror and  his  suite,  received  him  on  the  very  night  of  his  land- 
mg  from  the  Bellerophon.  It  stands  on  a little  knoll,  over- 
looking a deep  glen,  which  debouches  into  the  main  valley  jusi 


THE  GRAVE  OF  NAPOLEON. 


526 


below.  The  place  is  cheerful  though  solitary ; it  has  a shel* 
tered,  sunny  aspect,  compared  with  the  bleak  heights  of  Long- 
wood,  and  I do  not  wonder  that  the  great  exile  left  it  with 
regret.  Miss  Balcombe’s  account  of  Napoleon’s  sojourn  at 
The  Briars,”  is  among  the  most  striking  reminiscences  of  his 
life  on  the  island. 

Just  above  the  terrace  the  road  turned,  and,  after  a short 
ascent,  gained  the  crest  of  the  ridge,  where  the  grade  became 
easier,  and  the  cool  south-east  trade-wind,  blowing  over  the 
height,  refreshed  us  after  the  breathless  heat  of  the  ravine. 
The  road  was  bordered  with  pine-trees,  and  patches  of  soft 
green  turf  took  the  place  of  the  volcanic  dust  and  cinders. 
The  flower-stems  of  the  aloe-plants,  ten  feet  in  height,  had 
already  begun  to  wither,  but  the  purple  buds  of  the  cactus  were 
opening,  and  thick  clusters  of  a watery,  succulent  plant  were 
starred  with  white,  pink,  and  golden  blossoms.  We  had  now 
attained  the  central  upland  of  the  island,  which  slopes  down- 
ward in  all  directions  to  the  summit  of  the  sea-wall  of  clifis. 
On  emerging  again  from  the  wood,  a landscape  of  a very  dif- 
ferent character  met  our  view.  Over  a deep  valley,  the  sides 
of  which  were  alternately  green  with  turf  and  golden  with 
patches  of  blossoming  broom,  we  looked  upon  a ridge  of  table- 
land three  or  four  miles  long,  near  the  extremity  of  which,  sur- 
rounded by  a few  straggling  trees,  we  saw  the  houses  of  Long- 
wood.  In  order  to  reach  them,  it  was  necessary  to  pass  around 
the  head  of  the  intervening  valley.  In  this  direction  the  land- 
scape was  green  and  fresh,  dotted  with  groves  of  pine  and  white 
country-houses.  Flocks  of  sheep  grazed  on  the  turfy  hill-sides, 
and  a few  cows  and  horses  ruminated  among  the  clumps  of 
broom.  Down  in  the  bottom  of  the  valiey,  I noticed  a small 


526 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


enclosure,  planted  with  Italian  cypresses,  and  with  a square 
white  object  in  the  centre.  It  did  not  need  the  postillion’s 
words  to  assure  me  that  I looked  upon  the  G-rave  of  Napoleon. 

Looking  eastward  towards  the  sea,  the  hills  became  bare 
and  red,  gashed  with  chasms  and  falling  off  in  tremendous  pre- 
cipices, the  height  of  which  we  would  only  guess  from  the  dim 
blue  of  the  great  sphere  of  sea,  whose  far-off  horizon  was  drawn 
above  their  summits,  so  that  we  seemed  to  stand  in  the  centre 
of  a vast  concavity.  In  color,  form,  and  magnificent  desola- 
tion, these  hills  called  to  my  mind  the  mountain  region  sur- 
rounding the  Dead  Sea.  Clouds  rested  upon  the  high,  pine- 
wooded  summits  to  the  west  of  us,  and  the  broad,  sloping  val- 
ley, on  the  other  side  of  the  ridge 'of  Longwood,  was  as  green 
as  a dell  of  Switzerland.  The  view  of  those  fresh  pasture 
slopes,  with  their  fiocks  of  sheep,  their  groves  and  cottages,  was 
all  the  more  delightful  from  its  being  wholly  unexpected. 
Where  the  ridge  joins  the  hills,  and  one  can  look  into  both 
valleys  at  the  same  time,  there  is  a small  tavern,  with  the 
familiar  English  sign  of  the  “ Crown  and  Bose.”  Our  road 
now  led  eastward  along  the  top  of  the  ridge,  over  a waste  tract 
covered  with  clumps  of  broom,  for  another  mile  and  a half, 
when  we  reached  the  gate  of  the  Longwood  Farm.  A broad 
avenue  of  trees,  which  all  lean  inland  from  the  stress  of  the 
trade-wind,  conducts  to  the  group  of  buildings,  on  a bleak  spot, 
overlooking  the  sea,  and  exposed  to  the  full  force  of  the  wind. 
Our  wheels  rolled  over  a thick,  green  turf,  the  freshness  of 
which  showed  how  unfrequent  must  be  the  visits  of  strangers. 

On  reaching  the  gate,  a small  and  very  dirty  boy,  with  a 
milk-and-molasses  complexion,  brought  out  to  us  a notice 
pasted  on  a board,  intimating  that  those  who  wished  to  see  the 


napoleon’s  apartments. 


527 


residence  of  the  Emperor  Napoleon  must  pay  two  shillings 
a-piece  in  advance  ; children  haK-price.  A neat  little  English- 
woman of  that  uncertain  age  which  made  me  hesitate  to  ask 
her  whether  she  had  ever  seen  the  Emperor,  was  in  attendance, 
to  receive  the  fees  and  act  as  cicerone.  We  alighted  at  a small 
green  verandah,  facing  a wooden  wing  which  projects  from  the 
eastern  front  of  the  building.  The  first  room  we  entered  was 
whitewashed,  and  covered  all  over  with  the  names  of  visitors, 
in  charcoal,  pencil,  and  red  chalk.  The  greater  part  of  them 
were  French.  “ This,”  said  the  little  woman,  “ was  the  Em- 
peror’s billiard-room,  built  after  he  came  to  live  at  Longwood. 
The  walls  have  three  or  four  times  been  covered  with  names, 
and  whitewashed  over.”  A door  at  the  further  end  admitted 
us  into  the  drawing-room,  in  which  Napoleon  died.  The  ceil- 
ing was  broken  away,  and  dust  and  cobwebs  covered  the  bare 
rafters.  The  fioor  was  half-decayed,  almost  invisible  through 
the  dirt  which  covered  it,  and  the  plastering,  falling  off,  dis- 
closed in  many  places  the  rough  stone  walls.  A winnowing- 
mill  and  two  or  three  other  farming  utensils,  stood  in  the  cor- 
ners. The  window  looked  into  a barn-yard  filled  with  mud 
and  dung.  Stretched  on  a sofa,  with  his  head  beside  this  win- 
dow, the  great  conqueror,  the  “ modern  Sesostris,”  breathed  his 
last,  amid  the  delirium  of  fancied  battle  and  the  bowlings  of  a 
storm  which  shook  the  island.  The  corner-stone  of  the  jamb, 
nearest  which  his  head  lay,  has  been  quarried  out  of  the  wall, 
and  taken  to  France. 

Beyond  this  was  the  dining-room,  now  a dark,  dirty  barn* 
floor,  filled  to  tue  rafters  with  straw  and  refuse  timbers.  W e 
passed  out  into  a cattle-yard,  and  entered  the  Emperor’s  bed- 
room. A horse  and  three  cows  were  comfortably  stalled  there- 


528 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


in,  and  the  floor  of  mud  and  loose  stones  was  cohered  with 
dung  and  litter.  “ Here,”  said  the  guide,  pointing  to  an  un- 
usually filthy  stall  in  one  corner,  “was  the  Emperor’s  bath- 
room. Mr.  Solomon  (a  Jew  in  Jamestown)  has  the  marble 
bathing-tub  he  used.  Yonder  was  his  dressing  room  ” — a big 
brinded  calf  was  munching  some  grass*  in  the  very  spot — “ and 
here  ” (pointing  to  an  old  cow  in  the  nearest  corner)  “ his  at- 
tendant slept.”  So  miserable,  so  mournfully  wretched  was  the 
condition  of  the  place,  that  I regretted  not  having  been  content 
with  an  outside  view  of  Longwood.  On  the  other  side  of  the 
cattle-yard  stands  the  houses  which  were  inhabited  by  Count 
Montholon,  Las  Casas,  and  Dr.  O’Meara ; but  at  present  they 
are  shabby,  tumble-down  sheds,  whose  stone  walls  alone  have 
preserved  their  existence  to  this  day.  On  the  side  facing 
. the  sea,  there  are  a few  pine-trees,  under  which  is  a small 
crescent-shaped  fish-pond,  dry  and  nearly  filled  with  earth  and 
weeds.  Here  the  Emperor  used  to  sit  and  feed  his  tame  fish. 
The  sky,  ov  jrcast  with  clouds,  and  the  cold  wind  which  blew 
steadily  from  the  sea,  added  to  the  desolation  of  the  place. 

Passing  through  the  garden,  which  is  neglected,  like  the 
house,  and  running  to  waste,  we  walked  to  the  new  building 
erected  by  the  Grovernment  for  Napoleon’s  use,  but  which  he 
never  inhabited.  It  is  a large  quadrangle,  one  story  high, 
plain  but  commodious,  and  with  some  elegance  in  its  arrange- 
ment. It  has  been  once  or  twice  occupied  as  a residence,  but 
is  now  decaying  from  very  neglect.  Standing  under  the  brow 
of  the  hill,  it  is  sheltered  from  the  wind,  and  much  more  cheer- 
ful in  every  respect  than  the  old  mansion.  We  were  conducted 
through  the  empty  chambers,  intended  for  billiard,  dining, 
drawings  and  bed-rooms.  In  the  bath-room,  where  yet  stands 


MILDNESS  OF  AMERICAN  CHARACTER. 


529 


the  wooden  case  which  enclosed  the  marble  tub,  a flock  of 
geese  were  luxuriating.  The  curtains  which  hung  at  the  win- 
dows were  dropping  to  pieces  from  rot,  and  in  many  of  the 
rooms  the  plastering  was  cracked  and  mildewed  by  the  leakage 
of  rains  through  the  roof.  Near  the  building  is  a neat  cottage, 
in  which  General  Bertrand  and  his  family  formerly  resided.  It 
is  now  occupied  by  the  gentleman  who  leases  the  farm  of  Long- 
wood  from  the  Government.  The  farm  is  the  largest  on  the 
island,  containing  one  thousand  acres,  and  is  rented  at  £315  a 
year.  The  uplands  around  the  house  are  devoted  to  the  rais- 
ing of  oats  and  barley,  but  grazing  is  the  principal  source  of 
profit. 

I plucked  some  branches  of  geranium  and  fragrant  helio- 
trope from  the  garden,  and  we  set  out  on  our  return.  I pre- 
vailed upon  Mr.  Parkman  to  take  my  place  in  the  carriage,  and 
give  me  his  horse  as  far  as  the  “ Crown  and  Rose,”  thereby 
securing  an  inspiring  gallop  of  nearly  two  miles.  Two  Eng- 
lishmen, of  the  lower  order,  had  charge  of  the  tavern,  and 
while  I was  taking  a glass  of  ale,  one  of  them  touched  his  hat 
very  respectfully,  and  said : “ Axin’  your  pardon,  sir,  are  you 
from  the  States  ? ” I answered  in  the  atfirmative.  “ There  ! ” 
said  he,  turning  to  the  other  and  clapping  his  hands,  “ I knew 
it ; I’ve  won  the  bet.”  “ What  were  your  reasons  for  think- 
ing me  an  American  ? ” I asked.  “ Why,”  said  he,  “ the  gen- 
tlemen from  the  States  are  always  su  mild!  I knowed  you  was 
one  before  you  gut  off  the  horse.” 

We  sent  the  carriage  on  by  the  road,  to  await  us  on  the  other 
side  of  the  glen,  and  proceeded  on  foot  to  the  Grave.  The  path 
led  down  through  a garden  filled  with  roses  and  heliotropes. 
The  peach-trees  were  in  blossom,  and  the  tropical  loquat,  which 
23 


530 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


I had  seen  growing  in  India  and  China,  hung  full  of  ripe  yellow 
fruit.  As  we  approached  the  little  enclosure  at  the  bottom  of 
the  glen,  I,  who  was  in  advance,  was  hailed  by  a voice  crying 
out,  “ This  way,  sir,  this  way ! ” and,  looking  down,  saw  at 
the  gate  a diminutive,  wrinkled,  old,  grizzly-headed,  semi-negro, 
semi-Portuguese  woman,  whom  I at  once  recognized  as  the 
custodienm  of  the  tomb,  from  descriptions  which  the  officers  ol 
the  Mississippi  had  given  me.  “ Ah ! there  you  are ! ” said  I ; 
“ I knew  it  must  be  you.”  “ Why,  Captain ! ” she  exclaimed  * 
“ is  that  you  ? How  you  been  this  long  while  ? I didn’t 
know  you  was  a-comin’,  or  I would  ha’  put  on  a better  dress, 
for,  you  see,  I was  a-washin’  to-day.  “ Dickey  I ” — addressing 
a great,  fat,  white  youth  of  twenty-two  or  twenty-three,  with  a 
particularly  stupid  and  vacant  face — “run  up  to  the  garden, 
and  git  two  or  three  of  the  finest  hoTcys  as  ever  you  can,  for  the 
Captain  and  the  ladies ! ” 

At  the  gate  of  the  enclosure  hung  a placard,  calling  upon 
all  visitors  to  pay,  in  advance,  the  sum  of  one  shilling  and  six- 
pence each,  before  approaching  the  tomb.  This  touching  tes- 
timony of  respect  having  been  complied  with,  we  were  al- 
lowed to  draw  near  to  the  empty  vault,  which,  for  twenty 
years,  enshrined  the  corpse  of  Napoleon.  It  is  merely  an  ob- 
long shaft  of  masonry,  about  twelve  feet  deep,  and  with  a rude 
roof  thrown  over  the  mouth,  to  prevent  it  being  filled  by  the 
rains.  A little  railing  surrounds  it,  and  the  space  between  is 
planted  with  geraniums  and  scarlet  salvias.  Two  willows — one 
of  which  has  been  so  stript  by  travellers,  that  nothing  but  the 
trunk  is  left — shade  the  spot,  and  half-a-dozen  monumental 
cypresses  lift  their  tall  obelisks  around.  A fiight  of  steps  leads 
to  the  bottom  of  the  vault,  where  the  bed  of  masonry  which 


DESECRATION  OF  NAPOLEON^S  TOMB. 


631 


enclosed  the  coffin  still  remains.  I descended  to  the  lowest 
step,  and  there  found,  hanging  against  the  damp  wall,  a written 
tablet  stating  that  the  old  woman,  then  waiting  for  me  at  the 
top,  told  an  admirable  and  excellent  story  about  the  burial  of 
Napoleon,  which  travellers  would  do  well  to  extract  from  her, 
and  that  one  shilling  was  but  a fair  compensation  for  the 
pleasure  she  would  afford  them.  Appended  to  the  announce- 
ment were  the  following  lines,  which  I transcribed  on  the 
spot  • 


“ Firmly  strike  my  bounding  lyre, 

Poet’s  muse  can  never  tire, 

Nosegays  gay  and  flowers  so  wild. 

Climate  good  and  breezes  mild. 

Humbly  ask  a shilling,  please. 

Before  the  stranger  sails  the  seas. 

Napoleon  was  in  love  with  a lady  so  true, 

He  gave  her  a gold  ring  set  with  diamonds  and  pearls, 
Which  was  worthy  the  honors  of  many  brave  earls. 

But  she  died,  it  is  said,  in  her  bloom  and  her  beauty, 

So  his  love  broken-hearted 
For  ever  was  parted. 

He  drank  of  the  spring  and  its  water  so  clear, 

Which  was  reserved  for  his  use,  and  he  held  it  most  dear. 
So  he  died,  so  he  died. 

In  the  bloom  of  his  pride. 

In  his  life  he  sat  under  yon  lone  willow-tree. 

And  studied  the  air,  the  earth,  and  the  sea ; 

His  arms  were  akimbo,  his  thoughts  far  away. 

He  lived  six  months  at  the  house  on  the  hill,  at  his 

friend’s,  the  brave  General  Bertrand  by  name,  and 
from  thence  he  would  come 
To  visit  the  spot. 

And  stand  in  deep  thought, 

Forgotten  or  not.” 


532 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


If  I had  been  saddened  by  the  neglect  of  Longwood,  I 
was  disgusted  by  the  profanation  of  the  tomb.  Is  there  not 
enough  reverence  in  St.  Helena,  to  prevent  the  grave  which  a 
great  name  has  hallowed,  from  being  defiled  with  such  abomi- 
nable doggerel?  And  there  was  the  old  woman,  who,  having 
seen  me  read  the  notice,  immediately  commenced  her  admirable 
and  interesting  story  in  this  wise  : “ Six  years  he  lived  upon 
the  island.  He  came  here  in  1815,  and  he  died  in  1821.  Six 
years  he  lived  upon  the  island.  He  was  buried  with  his  head 
to  the  east.  This  is  the  east.  His  feet  was  to  the  west.  , This 
is  the  west.  Where  you  see  that  brown  dirt,  there  was  his 
head.  He  wanted  to  be  buried  beside  his  wife  Josephine ; 
but,  as  that  couldn’t  be  done,  he  was  put  here.  They  put  him 
here  because  he  used  to  come  down  here  with  a silver  mug  in 
his  pocket,  and  take  a drink  out  of  that  spring.  That’s  the 
reason  he  was  buried  here.  There  was  a guard  of  a sergeant 
and  six  men  up  there  on  the  hill  all  the  time  he  was  down  here 
a-drinkin’  out  of  the  spring  with  his  silver  mug.  This  was  the 
way  he  walked.”  Here  the  old  woman  folded  her  arms,  tossed 
back  her  grizzly  head,  and  strode  to  and  fro  with  so  ludicrous  an 
attempt  at  dignity,  that,  in  spite  of  myself,  I was  foi-ced  into 
laughter.  “Did  you  ever  see  him?”  1 asked.  “ Yes,  Cap- 
tain,” said  she,  “ I seed  him  a many  a time,  and  I always  said, 
‘ Good  mornin’.  Sir,’  but  he  never  had  no  conversation  with 
me.”  A draught  of  the  cool  and  delicious  lymph  of  Napo- 
leon’s Spring  completed  the  farce.  I broke  a sprig  from  one 
of  the  cypresses,  wrote  ray  name  in  the  visitor’s  book,  took  the 
“ boky  ” of  gillyflowers  and  marigolds,  which  Dickey  had  col- 
lected, and  slowly  remounted  the  opposite  side  of  the  glen. 
My  thoughts  involuntarily  turned  from  the  desecrated  grave  to 


DEPARTURE  FROM  ST.  HELENA. 


533 


that  fitting  sepulchre  where  he  'now  rests  under  the  banners  of 
a hundred  victorious  battle-fields,  and  guarded  by  the  timeworn 
remnant  of  his  faithful  Old  Guard.  Let  Long  wood  be  levelled 
to  the  earth,  and  the  empty  grave  be  filled  up  and  turfed  over ! 
Better  tliat  these  m'^morials  of  England’s  treachery  should  be 
seen  no  more  ! 

We  hastened  l>ack  to  Jamestown,  as  it  was  near  sunset. 
The  long  shadows  ^^lready  filled  the  ravine,  and  the  miniature 
gardens  and  streets  below  were  more  animated  than  during  the 
still  heat  of  the  afternoon.  Capt.  Howland  was  waiting  for  us, 
as  the  ship  was  ready  to  sail.  Before  it  was  quite  dark,  we 
had  weighed  anchor,  and  were  slowly  drifting  away  from  the 
desolate  crags  of  the  island.  The  next  morning  we  saw  again 
the  old  unbroken  ring  of  the  sea. 


I' 


CHAPTEB  XLI  V. 

HOMEWARD. 

Trade  Weather— Phosphorescence  of  the  Sea — Ocean  Nymphs — Butterflies  in  Mid- 
Ocean — The  North-East  Trades — A Gale  oflF  the  Bermudas — ^Nautical  Alms-Giving 
— The  Gulf  Stream— Escape  from  Cape  Hatteras— Fair  Wind — Winter  Weather- - 
The  Last  Day  of  the  Voyage — Landing  in  New  — Retrospect. 

For  three  days  after  leaving  St.  Helena  we  had  calm,  sluggish 
weather,  but  on  the  17th  took  the  trade-wind  again,  and  for  five 
Jays  thereafter  averaged  200  miles  a day.  The  wind  was 
steady,  dead  astern,  and  the  sea  calm,  with  very  little  swell. 
The  sky  was  overcast,  and  the  atmosphere  sultry,  with  a tem- 
perature ranging  from  80°  to  85°.  Flying-fish  appeared  in 
greater  quantities  than  I ever  noticed  before.  The  phospho- 
rescence of  the  sea  was  wonderful.  The  first  half  of  the  night 
was  dark,  as  the  moon  was  entering  her  last  quarter,  and  the 
ship’s  wake  was  a dazzling  trail  of  silver  fire.  The  rudder 
dashed  out  of  the  darkness  clusters  of  luminous  globes  about 
six  inches  in  diameter,  which  scattered  and  spread,  growing 
brighter  as  they  approached  the  surface.  The  light  rippling  of 
the  waves,  far  and  wide,  kindled  brilliant  sparkles,  which  stud- 


THE  NORTH-EAST  TRADES 


536 


ded  the  watery  firmament  like  stars,  to  which  the  long,  wavy, 
shining  wake  of  our  vessel  formed  the  Milky  Way.  One  who 
leaned  over  the  stern  asked  me  whether  those  fiery  globes  were 
not  the  astral  lamps  with  which  the  Undines  lighted  their  sub- 
oceanic  caverns;  but  I refus’ed  to  accept  the  fancy.  The 
imagination  positively  forbids  any  such  poetical  creatures  to 
inhabit  the  vast  desert  spaces  of  ocean.  The  Undines  are  the 
nymphs  of  rivers  and  fountains ; the  mermaid  only  haunts  the 
shore.  The  mid-sea  is  too  vast,  too  cold  in  its  barren  sublimity, 
to  be  peopled  by  human  dreams. 

At  midnight,  on  the  24th  of  December,  we  crossed  the 
Equator  in  Long.  30°  W.,  having  been  fifty-nine  days  in  the 
Southern  Hemisphere.  We  hoped  to  have  taken  the  north-east 
trades  soon  afterwards,  but  were  tantalized  for  a week  with 
calms,  and  light,  variable  winds,  during  which  we  did  not 
average  more  than  125  miles  a day.  On  the  1st  of  December, 
in  Lat.  12°  N.  a large  butterfiy  and  two  dragon-flies  came  on 
board.  The  nearest  land,  the  coast  of  Gruiana,  was  more  than 
900  miles  distant.  I have  never  seen  it  stated  that  these  insects 
are  capable  of  such  long  flights. 

We  had  been  onboard  the  Sea  Serpent  eighty-one  days,  and 
our  hopes  of  spending  Christmas  at  home  were  rapidly  dimin- 
ishing, when  the  long-desired  trade-wind  struck  us.  On  the  2d 
of  December  we  made  216  miles;  on  the  3d,  265  miles;  and 
on  the  4th,  three  hundred  miles,  which  was  our  best  day’s  run 
during  the  voyage.  Our  good  ship  fairly  whistled  through  the 
water,  cutting  her  way  so  smoothly  that  there  was  scarcely 
foam  enough  before  her  bows  to  throw  a scud  over  the  fore- 
castle, or  wake  enough  behind  her  stern  to  tell  that  she  had 
passed.  The  beautiful  wave-lines  of  her  counter  allowed  the 


536 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


dead  water  to  close  as  passively  as  if  the  ocean  had  not  been 
disturbed. 

On  the  morning  of  December  the  11th,  in  Lat.  32°  N.  and 
off  the  lee  of  the  Bermudas,  the  wind  hauled  round  to  the 
north-west  and  blew  half  a gale  for  the  two  following  days, 
during  which  we  ran  westward  under  close-reefed  topsails.  So 
it  came  to  pass  that  on  the  14th  we  were  two  degrees  west  of 
New  York,  and  somewhere  off  Darien,  in  Georgia.  The  wind 
then  shifted  more  to  the  westward,  and  by  noon  on  the  16th, 
we  were  in  the  edge  of  the  Gulf  Stream,  about  75  miles  to  the 
south-east  of  Cape  Fear  Three  or  four  vessels  bound  north, 
were  in  sight,  apparently  driven  under  the  lee  of  Cape  Hat- 
teras,  like  ourselves,  by  the  violence  of  the  northern  gale.  In 
the  afternoon,  an  hermaphrodite  brig,  which  had  risen  on  the 
weather  bow,  stood  down  towards  us  and  we  saw  a boat  put  off 
from  her.  We  suspected  at  first  that  the  brig  might  be  a relief 
vessel,  but  were  soon  undeceived  by  the  boat  coming  alongside. 
A raw,  rough  fellow,  in  a fiannel  shirt  and  red  cap,  came  over 
the  side,  and  stated  that  the  brig  was  a Nova  Scotian,  bound 
from  Magua  to  Cape  Breton,  had  been  out  twenty  days,  and 
had  but  four  days’  provisions  on  board.  He  was  on  a begging 
errand,  and  was  successful  enough  to  get  a barrel  each  of  flour, 
bread,  pork  and  beef.  The  brig  had  encountered  strong  north- 
erly and  north-easterly  winds  for  the  previous  eight  days.  The 
boat’s  crew  were  hale,  athletic  Nova-Scotians  and  it  was 
refreshing  to  see  such  well-knit,  sinewy  frames,  such  bold, 
hearty  features,  and  such  ruddiness  of  warm  and  healthy  blood. 
As  the  Bermudas  had  not  suffered  us  to  pass,  I hoped  that  the 
sailor’s  couplet  would  apply  both  ways,  and  that  Cape  Hatteras 
would  let  us  off  easily  On  Saturday  morning,  the  17th,  a 


ESCAPE  FROM  CAPE  HATTERAS. 


537 


breeze  sprang  up  from  the  south-east.  Gradually  increabiiig,  it 
hauled  to  the  northward  and  westward,  and  by  noon  we  were 
dashing  on  our  course  at  the  rate  of  ten  knots.  The  sky  was 
too  overcast  to  obtain  an  observation,  but  according  to  the 
reckoning  we  were  in  Lat.  35®  16''  N.  and  Long.  75®  17^  W. 
At  2 p.  M.  we  ran  across  the  inner  edge  of  the  Gulf  Stream^ 
and  came  at  once  upon  soundings.  The  line  of  junction  between 
the  dark-blue  water  of  the  Gulf,  and  the  pale-green  of  the 
shoals  was  marked  with  wonderful  distinctness.  The  stern  of 
our  vessel  was  in  the  former,  while  the  latter  reached  to  her 
waist.  Within  the  distance  of  a ship’s  length,  the  temperature 
of  the  sea  changed  from  72°  to  62®.  The  water  immediately 
became  of  a paler  green,  and  we  felt  an  ugly  ground  swell. 
At  the  same  instant  Mr.  Cornell  discerned  land  off  the  port 
beam,  and  a single  glance  sufficed  to  show  that  it  was  Cape 
Hatteras,, which,  according  to  our  reckoning,  should  have  been 
weathered  two  hours  before.  The  current  of  the  Gulf  Stream 
had  evidently  been  much  retarded  by  the  strong  north-eastern 
gales. 

It  blew  hard  during  the  night,  and  there  was  a very  heavy 
sea  in  the  stream,  but  on  soundings  the  water  was  smoother. 
We  ran  the  whole  night  with  no  other  sail  than  close-reefed 
fore  and  main  topsails,  and  reefed  foresail.  In  the  morning  the 
sky  was  clear  and  cold,  and  the  air  for  the  first  time  biting  and 
wintry,  rendering  our  heaviest  clothing  necessary  to  support  the 
sudden  change  from  the  Tropics.  The  wind  gradually  veered 
to  W.  N.  W.,  but  by  noon  we  were  off  Cape  Henlopen.  We  ran 
close-hauled  all  day,  striving  to  get  to  windward  in  order  to 
make  Sandy  Hook  the  next  morning,  but  found  ourselves  at 
sunrise  about  40  miles  to  the  eastward  of  it.  The  transition 


5S8 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. 


to  a winter  climate  was  like  a cold-plunge  bath.  The  ther- 
mometer sank  to  25°,  and  water  froze  on  deck.  At  noon  a 
pilot-boat  hove  in  sight,  running  down  towards  us.  The  ship 
was  put  about,  in  order  to  meet  her,  but  this  movement  grad- 
ually brought  a bark,  which  was  to  windward  of  us,  between  us 
and  the  boat,  and  as  the  latter  hoisted  signal,  the  boat  was 
obliged  to  give  her  the  only  pilot  aboard. 

We  had  a tedious  night,  of  alternate  calms  and  snow-squalls, 
and  I slept  very  little,  out  of  anxiety  lest  a stiff  nor’wester 
should  spring  up  and  blow  us  out  to  sea  again.  But  by  morn- 
ing we  had  a pilot  aboard,  and  taking  advantage  of  a shift  of 
the  wind,  made  a tack  which  brought  us  in  sight  of  Sandy 
Hook  and  of  tw'o  steam-tugs.  At  ten  o’clock  the  Leviathan 
had  grappled  us  ; the  useless  sails  were  furled,  and  we  sped 
surely  and  swiftly,  in  the  clear  winter  sunshine,  up  the  outer 
bay,  through  the  Narrows  and  into  the  noble  harbor  of  New 
York.  The  hills  of  Staten  Island  glittered  with  snow;  the 
trees  had  long  been  bare  and  the  grass  dead ; and  for  the  first 
time  in  nearly  three  years,  I looked  upon  a wdnter  landscape. 
It  was  the  20th  of  December,  and  101  days  since  our  departure 
from  Whampoa.  We  rapidly  approached  the  familiar  and 
beloved  city,  and  at  2 p.  m.  I landed  on  one  of  the  East  River 
piers. 

I had  left  New  York  on  the  28th  of  August,  1851,  and  had 
thus  been  absent  two  years  and  four  months.  During  this 
time  I had  visited  most  of  the  countries  of  Europe,  ascended 
the  Nile  to  the  Negro  kingdoms  of  Central  Africa,  journeyed  in 
Palestine,  Asia  Minor,  and  India,  visited  China  twice,  and 
taken  part  in  the  American  expedition  to  Japan.  I had 
travelled  altogether  about  fifty  thousand  'miles,  and  in  all  my 


RETROSPECT. 


539 


wanderings,  in  all  my  intercourse  with  men  of  whatever  race  or 
clime,  had  been  received  with  kindness  and  attended  by  uniform 
good  fortune.  Let  me  hope  that  the  reader,  who  has  had  the 
patience  to  accompany  me  through  the  narrative  of  tliis  long 
and  adventurous  journey,  will  arrive  at  its  close  with  the  same 
faith  in  those  innate  virtues  of  human  nature  which  no  degrada- 
tion can  obscure,  and  the  same  dependence  on  that  merciful 
Providence  whose  protection  extends  over  all  lands  and  seas. 


•? 

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